I would like to paint the centerboard. Is there a way to do this
without removing the board from the trunk? I guess I could paint it
when it is on a marina lift but then I wouldn't have the time to
give it multiple coats.
Any innovative ways to get the job done?
Thanks in advance for your comments.
Marc Beroz
First, remove everything to get to the floor. There is a U-shaped
board over the CB trunk. It is attached with about four long
stainless screws, remove the screws, and pop up the U-shaped board.
You now have access to the CB trunk. Remove all of the screws
holding down the CB cap and gasket and gently pry the cap off.
You will now have access to the centerboard. Remove the CB line and
lift the CB out (heavy)!
Access under the companion way is a little tight, so it is kind of
difficult getting those screws out.
This should work; I just came back in the house from re-installing
the CB. It's a pain in the A., but not too bad.
Good luck,
Bill Sparhawk
Only took me 1.5 hours to get to the top of the centerboard trunk.
Most of that time was trying to maneuver the seat out of the way in
the cabin. Found I could not slip it out of the companionway hatch
without lifting the pop-top. Couldn't raise top since mast is tied
down on stern & bow rails for the winter. Rummy, once seat top is
off, there is nothing else to remove.
The U-shaped board over top of trunk is warped downwards along its
inside edges. I was thinking of flipping it over when I re-install
it. On my installation, the inside edge of the board is not
supported by the trunk. Should it be? The board is also cut
about 1/4 inch too narrow. (from outside edge to outside edge).
As a result, the screws through the top edge of one side of this
board never made it into the stringer. Wouldn't be difficult to cut
another U shaped board but I think I'll just try longer screws.
Removed the 37 screws & 10 bolts with nuts from the top of the trunk.
The bolts used were flat head. I'm going to replace with pan head.
Have not yet been able to pry off the cover. Can't seem to get a
blade started anywhere. Bill, did you pry above or below the gasket?
Marc Beroz
I pried on top of the gasket. There wasn't any sealant holding it
down, just seemed to bond together slightly after being in contact
with each other for so long. I used a small "wonder bar" to get
under the cap and pried gently around the cap with it. Once you
get it started, you can grab the rubber gasket and pull upward and
this will help release the seal.
The inside edge was unsupported on my installation also.
Bill Sparhawk
You must mean the seat / berth on the port side. Does the drawer
come out with that?
Rummy
Think about Micron Extra for painting the trunk.
MJM
Thanks for the info Michael. Doesn't surprise me. I figured that
was the only right way to do it. I have followed the discussions
about removing cap, being careful not to ding gasket, removing
screws, dinking around with pulleys, applying bunches of coats of
ACP 50. What I don't really know is how much of the settee and
floor has to come out and where I'll find all the attachment
screws. Are the attachment screws obvious or are some hidden in
unexpected places? I really should be outside now taking a good
look but it just seems too cold to be lying on that floor!
Marc Beroz
Not really, you can jack/dig hole under the trailer, but to do the
job right, and absolutely essential for saltwater, is to paint the
trunk too. Up to a point, the paint can be pushed up there, but a
much better job can be done by removing the cap.
If you are in fresh water only you might be able to get away without
painting it. If you do the painting, replace the line at the same
time.
MJM
