DISCLAIMER-This is in reference to a boat that was built 25 years ago
and not by General Boats. Anyone interested in purchasing an R22
today should not have this problem.
I was informed the older R22s had certain problems with the
centerboards. They had trouble with raising and lowering, broken
pivot pins and leaks.
I have a 1973 R22 and we are starting to get it ready for the season.
In regard to the centerboard issues, what do we need to look for and
how have they been resolved?
In the pictures that I published at
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=22446&a=115376
there is a picture of the centerboard opening. As you can see, there
is a pulley on the top of the centerboard. Is this standard or was
this a repair? It also looks that part way into the housing there
are some attached pieces that once belonged to something.
I know this has been long and I apologize but any help will be
greatly appreciated.
Iweb86@aol.com
My boat is a 1982 Rhodes but here is how mine works:
Starting forward and working aft with the line:
There should be an eye on the centerboard cap where you can run your
line through and knot off. From there the line goes down to the
centerboard through a pulley, then up to the centerboard cap through
a pulley, then down again to the centerboard through a pulley, then
across to the aft end of the centerboard cap where there is a opening
up to the cockpit through a tube that the line runs through for
raising the centerboard.
Steve Little
s/v Vista Jay
I just replaced the centerboard on Knot Perfect. The pulleys are
stainless with a plastic sheave. You should have three of them.
Ron
I am new regarding the details of this boat, just acquired a used
one this last week.... and so far am very thrilled; however, I wish
to replace the worn centerboard pendant. I have read from GB
(website) that you can remove the centerboard through the trunk after
removing the gasket. If this can be done, is the top of the trunk
above the water line so I can do this without pulling the boat?
Where do I find the attachment for the pendant to the centerboard?
I would appreciate any help or a schematic of this.
Jim
First the centerboard well cap is below the water line. Unless you
want a very wet boat, you have to pull it before you replace the
pendant. Now I will try to give you a verbal schematic of what you
are facing. In my boat, I had to remove the long piece of wood that
supports the side couch cushions. It runs from the v-bunk to the
hatch. There is a support under the hatch end that comes out too.
Remove any carpeting. Then remove the little square access cover for
the bilge. There is a plank that runs from the access hole to the
hatch bulkhead. Remove the screws and remove that too. Support the
centerboard (diamondboard for purists) in as far up a position if
possible. Now you can remove about 50 screws securing the top plate
to the diamondboard well. You still have the problem of removing the
old pendant. It is secured in the cockpit area by a wooden ball, and
the other end is tied to either the top plate or the diamondboard.
Once you remove that you can snake one end or the other out to free
the top plate. You also have a pipe that runs up from the aft of the
cover to the bottom of the hole the pendant fits through at the hatch
bulkhead.
That was the easy part. Now comes the hard part--putting it all
back!
So far I have accomplished the first part. My diamondboard was
accidentally driven up through the diamondboard well cap and a large
amount of water came into the boat. I just got the cap from Stan at
the Annapolis Boat Show. I expect to start replacing it in the next
few days.
Cam Whetstone
S/V Melinda II
The system is quite different between original style boards and the diamond board.
The newer system is a direct pull and avoids the three blocks. The actual movement
distance of the line is 26". The down side is that no longer can the 2 year old in
the slide show pick it up.
The direct line system ( which I believe you have) ties directly to the upper edge
of the aft end of the board and so the line threading is easy; just drop a new
line down the cb pennant hose from the cockpit. Attaching its bottom end to the
board can be done by: diving/raising the boat enough so this hole in the aft edge
of the board is expose/beaching and pulling the board out with boat on its side/ or
the old fashioned way of taking off the cb cap. Of course we use the plant hoist.
The new cb pennants are rugged lines and really can last almost as long as the
boat. You have an early type line but are you sure it is ready to be replaced?
Most of the old boats we take in do not require line replacement.
If you want a piece of the special new type line call Tammy.
If you are buying some locally I think 6' to 8' will give you more than enough to
make a loop pulling end.
stan/gbi
16 Jul 2001
