[Rhodes22-list] shroud tension jokes

Michael Meltzer rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org
Thu, 22 Aug 2002 12:11:23 -0400


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thought you would like this Recipe :-)

MJM



Materials:


  1.. 532.35 cm3 gluten=20
  2.. 4.9 cm3 NaHCO3=20
  3.. 4.9 cm3 refined halite=20
  4.. 236.6 cm3 partially hydrogenated tallow triglyceride=20
  5.. 177.45 cm3 crystalline C12H22O11=20
  6.. 177.45 cm3 unrefined C12H22O11=20
  7.. 4.9 cm3 methyl ether of protocatechuic aldehyde=20
  8.. 2.0 CaCO3 encapsulated avian albumen-coated protein=20
  9.. 473.2 cm3 theobroma cacoa=20
  10.. 236.6 cm3 de-encapsulated juglans regia fruits (sieve size 10)=20

Procedure:


To a 2-L jacketed round reactor vessel (reactor #1) with an overall heat =
transfer coefficient of about 100 Btu/=B0F-ft2-hr, add ingredients (1), =
(2), and (3) with consistent agitation. In a second 2-L reactor vessel =
(reactor #2) with a radial flow impeller operating at 100 rpm, add =
ingredients (4), (5), (6), and (7), processing until the mixture is =
homogenous. Add to ingredients in reactor #2, ingredient (8) and three =
volumetrically equal portions of the homogenous mixture in reactor #1, =
processing after each addition until the mixture is again homogenous. =
Upon completion of the previous step, add ingredients (9) and (10), =
slowly with constant agitation at an impeller rate of 50 rpm. Care must =
be taken at this point in the reaction to control any temperature rise =
that may be the result of an exothermic reaction.=20


Using a screw extrude attached to a #4 nodulizer, place 10.0 cm3 nodules =
of the mixture in ordered ranks on a 316SS sheet (30.0 cm X 60.0 cm). =
Heat in a 460=B0K oven for a period of time that is in agreement with =
Frank & Johnson's first order rate expression (see JACOS, 21, 55), or =
until golden brown.


Once the reaction is complete, place the sheet on a 297=B0K =
heat-transfer table, allowing the product to come to thermal equilibrium =
with ambient atmospheric temperature.


WARNING:=20


These procedures are designed for trained processionals; don't try this =
at home.=20

  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Toad the Wet Sprocket=20
  To: rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org=20
  Sent: Thursday, August 22, 2002 8:40 AM
  Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] shroud tension jokes






  Roger,   =20

        I very much appreciate the information you posted on the Rhodes =
list server.  I was only joking around about the banana and tape measure =
remarks.   I know absolutely zero about tuning a sailing rig, but I do =
know from reading the posts on other discussion boards that the subject =
is as heated as religion or politics. That is why I made a joke. I am =
not an engineer but I was an aircraft mechanic by trade and I, as I am =
certain that you do, take a perfectionist's approach to all things =
mechanical.  =20

       I will try to keep my joking to a minimum in the future =
especially because it is most times impossible for a reader to tell when =
I am goofing around.

       Your later posts did help as well by illustrating the reasons for =
the higher tension on the forward lower shrouds.  Now I have a clearer =
picture of some of the dynamics involved in rig tuning and along with =
your advice I will do my own trials to find settings that suit my =
sailing style/ability and conditions.

       Again, let me apologize for making a joke at your expense.  I did =
not intend to anger you' especially to the point that you'd refrain from =
future postings.  My joking often gets me in trouble, but that's just =
who I am.

  Todd

  P.S.  What was the ambient temperature when you tuned your rig??   =
(joke)  Do you still have your original sails and if so, do you want to =
sell them?














  Please respond to sprocket80@hotmail.com=20
  From: "Roger Pihlaja"=20
  Reply-To: rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org=20
  To:=20
  Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] shroud tension jokes=20
  Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 11:07:16 -0400=20
  Dear Toad,=20
  First of all, I'm an engineer & I've owned my Rhodes 22 since the =
spring of 1987. Stan @ GBI will never be this specific with rig tuning =
specs. It's just not his nature. Early on, I purchased a Loo's tension =
gage, started doing experiments, making measurements, & racing my boat. =
The specs I gave you are the lowest static tension settings that yield =
the desired dynamic behavior in the sailing rig. By the way, totalling =
up the lbs of tension in the standing rigging doesn't tell you very =
much. Each stay is loaded individually. The ultimate tensile strength of =
those 5/32" OD, 1 X 19, 316 stainless steel wires is on the order of =
2800 lbs. At 600 lbs max tension on the loaded windward upper sidestay, =
my suggested rig tension settings leave a safety factor of more than 4X. =

  The only part of the standing wire rigging I've upgraded was my =
forestay wire to 3/16" OD, which has an ultimate tensile strength of =
about 4000 lbs. I did this wire size upgrade when I replaced my OEM =
standard roller furler to a Harken Unit 0. 3/16" OD wire in the forestay =
is probably overkill. But, 3/16" OD was the largest standard size =
available for the Harken Unit 0. I had to replace the forestay anyway as =
part of the installation, there was no good reason not to upgrade, & it =
seemed like cheap insurance.=20
  The breaking strength of the wires & the swaged terminals are the =
limiting factors. The chainplates can hold much more than the rest of =
the rig. You could confidently lift the entire boat suspended from the =
upper side chainplates. They don't need to be upgraded.=20
  The mast compression post is only loaded to a small fraction of its =
buckling strength. Don't worry about it.=20
  Look on page 970 of the WEST Marine 2002 Master catalog for a Loo's =
tension gage. You would need to order a Loo's model 91A or PT1.=20
  As I said in my post, I was trying to use the image of the ends of the =
hull bending upward like a "22 foot long banana" under rig stress as a =
"greatly exagerated" illustration of the effects involved. The real hull =
deflection is subtle, certainly not observable without precision =
measurement instruments.=20
  Since I suggested adjusting the length of the forestay in 1/2" =
increments to adjust your weather helm/lee helm balance, if you measure =
the forestay length to 1/4 of that increment, or 1/8" accuracy, that =
will be sufficient resolution. You are quite correct, I had too many =
significant figures in my forestay length spec. It should have read =
333-5/8".=20
  Criticize me if you wish, but did anyone else give you anything but =
qualitative descriptions of rig tuning? Why don't you try my rig tuning =
procedure & see what you think?=20
  Roger Pihlaja=20
  S/V Dynamic Equilibrium=20
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Toad the Wet Sprocket=20
  To: rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org=20
  Sent: Tuesday, August 20, 2002 3:30 PM=20
  Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] shroud tension jokes=20
  Roger,=20
  So you have a total of 1800lbs of tension on all of your shrouds, not =
to mention the fore/backstay tension? Where did you come up with all of =
these figures? Are these the specs from Stan and the guys at GB? This =
all seems like quite a strain on the chain plates and alot of =
compression down through the mast into the hull.=20
  Did you replace your rigging with larger cables or beef up the chain =
plate mountings?=20
  Where can one buy the guage you have and a tape measure that measures =
to three decimal places? Is my boat supposed to bend up at the ends like =
a 22 foot banana too?=20
  Sorry, I couldn't resist. I was in a goofy mood today. Honestly, where =
did you get these specs?=20
  Please respond to sprocket80@hotmail.com=20
  From: "Roger Pihlaja"=20
  Reply-To: rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org=20
  To:=20
  Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] shroud tension=20
  Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2002 07:56:38 -0400=20
  Jack,=20
  Here's a copy of the rig tuning procedure I use:=20
  The 1st thing you want to do is measure the length of the forestay on =
center=20
  from pin-to-pin. On my 1976, standard mainsail, Rhodes 22, this =
measurement=20
  is 333.625 inches. Write this number down because it is very =
important.=20
  If your forestay length is more than a couple of inches different than =
this,=20
  you might want to reset it 333.625 inches as a reasonable starting =
point.=20
  Now step the mast. Take the excess slack out of the forestay & =
backstays=20
  with the backstay adjuster. You don't want things real tight at this =
point.=20
  All upper & lower sidestays should be slack. Go to the base of the =
mast,=20
  pull a halyard taut along the mast & sight up the mast from the rear & =
from=20
  the side. Any deviation from a straight mast will show up as a gap =
between=20
  the mast & the halyard. There should be no observable bend or bowing =
in the=20
  mast. If there is, the mast may have been dropped & bent at some point =
or=20
  may have some other problem. You should call Stan at GBI & he will be =
able=20
  to help you work out your problem.=20
  I like to use a Loo's tension gage. The model 91 is the appropriate =
range=20
  for the Rhodes 22. Remember to always measure the tension at the same=20
  relative position on each shroud every time. On Dynamic Equilibrium, I =

  have marked these measurement points with little spots of paint on the =

  wire right at my eye level.=20
  The upper sidestays are adjusted next. Raise a tape measure up the =
mast on=20
  a halyard. Measure to the same point on each side of the boat. I like =
to=20
  use the edge of the toerail right next to the sidestay. Tighten the=20
  turnbuckles a little at a time on each side to adjust the upper =
sidestays=20
  until both sides are the same length +/- 1/4" & tensioned to =
approximately=20
  300 lbs +/- 5%. This procedure assures the top of the mast is centered =
in=20
  the boat & the upper sidestays are tensioned equally port & starboard. =

  What you do next depends upon whether your boat has the IMF mainsail =
or a=20
  conventional mainsail.=20
  On an IMF mainsail boat, I would adjust the 4 lower sidestays so they =
were=20
  all approximately the same tension. I would start with approximately =
200=20
  lbs +/- 5% on all 4 lowers. This is not a lot of shroud tension. Check =
for=20
  mast straightness with the halyard again. You want the mast to be =
straight=20
  in order for the IMF furling mechanism inside of it to be able to turn =

  without binding &/or excessive wear on the bearings. Minor bending or=20
  bowing can be taken out with the lower sidestays. However, I would =
call=20
  Stan at GBI if I couldn't get the mast to straighten out with a =
difference=20
  of about +/- 15% on lower sidestay tension.=20
  My Rhodes 22 has a conventional mainsail. I have a very roachy fully=20
  battened mainsail which has been cut to respond to mast bend. I have =
my=20
  backstay adjuster set-up to adjust quickly from the cockpit with =
calibration=20
  marks on the line.=20
  Tighten the turnbuckles equally & a little a time on each side to keep =

  things reasonably centered. I adjust the forward lower sidestays to =
400 lbs=20
  +/- 5% of tension, and the aft lower sidestays to 200 lbs +/- 5% of =
tension.=20
  Then, check for mast straightness with the halyard. Believe it or not, =
the=20
  standard mast on the Rhodes 22 is such a stiff telephone pole that, at =
200=20
  lbs differential tension on the lowers, there will be a barely =
detectable=20
  fore/aft bend in the mast with no sails set & the backstay adjuster =
slack.=20
  At 400 lbs of tension on the lower forward sidestays, when the =
backstay=20
  adjuster is tensioned, primarily only the upper half of the mast is =
pulled=20
  towards the stern. The forestay is tightened & the mast is bent at the =
same=20
  time. Both actions are exactly what you want to obtain proper sail =
shape in=20
  a high wind situation.=20
  Now go out sailing. On a close hauled course, put up enough sail to =
heel=20
  the boat over about 15-20 deg. Make certain the rudder blade & =
centerboard=20
  are all the way down. On my Rhodes 22, the above tension settings =
cause the=20
  mast to remain straight & more or less centered in the boat. The =
primary=20
  thing to check is the upper sidestays. On my Rhodes 22 with the above=20
  unloaded tension settings, at 15-20 deg of heel, the windward upper =
sidestay=20
  should have about 450 lbs tension & the leeward upper sidestay should =
have=20
  about 150 lbs of tension. I have my upper sidestays set-up such that =
the=20
  leeward upper sidestay tension drops to 0 lbs at about 30 degrees of =
heel.=20
  At this point, the windward upper sidestay will be under about 600 lbs =

  tension. Note, normally the stays are set-up to give proper shroud =
tension=20
  & the correct amount of weather helm with full sail set. This tends to =

  limit the weather window in which you can do this sort of tuning.=20
  When all sails are properly trimmed & the boat is "in the groove", =
there=20
  should only a slight amount of weather helm. If there is a huge =
weather=20
  helm, or neutral, or lee helm; then, you need to adjust the rake angle =
of=20
  the mast. If you have neutral or lee helm; then increase the forestay=20
  length. To get rid of excessive weather helm, shorten the forestay. =
The=20
  balance of the boat is very sensitive to this mast rake angle, so =
change it=20
  in increments of about 1/2" at a time. Note, a slight amount of =
weather=20
  helm=20
  is desirable because it provides feedback to the helmsman, thus =
allowing=20
  him to steer a better course. Excessive weather helm tends to tire the =

  helmsman out.=20
  Once I'm happy, I lock the adjustment in place by taping the lock nuts =
on=20
  the turnbuckles. I find I only need to do this adjustment once. The=20
  Rhodes 22 is such a strongly built little boat that nothing ever seems =
to=20
  stretch or bend. I do check the side-to-side upper sidestay length at =
the=20
  beginning of every season; but, it's never changed in the 13+ seasons =
I've=20
  been measuring it. Trailering set-up only involves adjusting the lower =

  sidestays since the rest are not disturbed.=20
  As far as rig tension settings on the trailer vs. off the trailer, =
I've=20
  found the=20
  only rig tension adjustment that significantly changes is the backstay =

  tension.=20
  You can set the tension on the rest of the standing rigging according =
to the=20
  above procedure on the trailer. It will be very close to optimum when =
you=20
  get the boat in the water, certainly good enough to do the =
on-the-water=20
  fine tuning described above.=20
  FYI, I slack off on the backstay tension when Dynamic Equilibrium is =
not=20
  being sailed. As I mentioned above, the backstay adjuster has =
sufficient=20
  power to affect the shape of the hull. Greatly exaggerated, imagine =
the=20
  ends=20
  of the hull being pulled upward like a 22 foot long banana when the =
backstay=20
  adjuster is tight! There is no sense leaving the hull & rig under that =
kind=20
  of=20
  stress when the boat is not being sailed.=20
  Jack, I hope this description of rig tuning helps you. Good luck!=20
  Roger Pihlaja=20
  S/V Dynamic Equilibrium=20
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: "Jack Goldberg"=20
  To:=20
  Sent: Monday, August 19, 2002 7:47 PM=20
  Subject: [Rhodes22-list] shroud tension=20
  > This list has been helpful in the past, so I'll come to the trough =
of=20
  > knowledge to feed again.=20
  > I noted with interest the thread about the mast plate bolts coming =
loose=20
  and=20
  > the response with regard to the tension of the shrouds. My 84' has a =

  > standard main. When I bought the boat this spring, the shrouds were =
very=20
  > loose (obout 3 inches of play from side to side at about 3 feet from =
the=20
  > deck. The guy I bought the boat from said that was OK, but now I'm=20
  worried.=20
  > Is there a spec' on how tight (or loose) the shrouds should be under =
no=20
  > load?=20
  >=20
  > Jack Goldberg,=20
  >=20
  > _________________________________________________________________=20
  > MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:=20
  > http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx=20
  >=20
  > _______________________________________=20
  > Subscribers, send mail to this address Rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org=20
  > To change your options or unsubscribe from the list click on this =
link=20
  > http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list Check out our =

  > FAQ pages at http://www.geocities.com/blew_skies/topics.html=20
  > http://www.sailnet.com/ -Where Sailors Get It! =
http://www.rhodes22.org=20
  >=20
  _______________________________________=20
  Subscribers, send mail to this address Rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org=20
  To change your options or unsubscribe from the list click on this link =

  http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list Check out our=20
  FAQ pages at http://www.geocities.com/blew_skies/topics.html=20
  http://www.sailnet.com/ -Where Sailors Get It! http://www.rhodes22.org =

  =
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<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
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<DIV>
<P><FONT face=3DArial>thought you would like this Recipe :-)</FONT></P>
<P>MJM</P>
<P><B><FONT face=3DArial size=3D4></FONT></B>&nbsp;</P>
<P><B><FONT face=3DArial size=3D4>Materials:<BR></P></FONT></B>
<OL>
  <LI><FONT face=3DArial>532.35 cm<SUP>3</SUP> gluten</FONT>=20
  <LI><FONT face=3DArial>4.9 cm<SUP>3</SUP> NaHCO<SUB>3</SUB></FONT>=20
  <LI><FONT face=3DArial>4.9 cm<SUP>3</SUP> refined halite</FONT>=20
  <LI><FONT face=3DArial>236.6 cm<SUP>3</SUP> partially hydrogenated =
tallow=20
  triglyceride</FONT>=20
  <LI><FONT face=3DArial>177.45 cm<SUP>3</SUP> crystalline=20
  C<SUB>12</SUB>H<SUB>22</SUB>O<SUB>11</SUB> </FONT>
  <LI><FONT face=3DArial>177.45 cm<SUP>3</SUP> unrefined=20
  C<SUB>12</SUB>H<SUB>22</SUB>O<SUB>11</SUB> </FONT>
  <LI><FONT face=3DArial>4.9 cm<SUP>3</SUP> methyl ether of =
protocatechuic=20
  aldehyde</FONT>=20
  <LI><FONT face=3DArial>2.0 CaCO<SUB>3</SUB> encapsulated avian =
albumen-coated=20
  protein</FONT>=20
  <LI><FONT face=3DArial>473.2 cm<SUP>3</SUP> theobroma cacoa</FONT>=20
  <LI><FONT face=3DArial>236.6 cm<SUP>3</SUP> de-encapsulated <I>juglans =
regia</I>=20
  fruits (sieve size 10)</FONT> </LI></OL>
<P><FONT face=3DArial></FONT>
<P><B><FONT face=3DArial size=3D4>Procedure:<BR></FONT></B>
<P><FONT face=3DArial>To a 2-L jacketed round reactor vessel (reactor =
#1) with an=20
overall heat transfer coefficient of about 100 =
Btu/=B0F-ft<SUP>2</SUP>-hr, add=20
ingredients (1), (2), and (3) with consistent agitation. In a second 2-L =
reactor=20
vessel (reactor #2) with a radial flow impeller operating at 100 rpm, =
add=20
ingredients (4), (5), (6), and (7), processing until the mixture is =
homogenous.=20
Add to ingredients in reactor #2, ingredient (8) and three =
volumetrically equal=20
portions of the homogenous mixture in reactor #1, processing after each =
addition=20
until the mixture is again homogenous. Upon completion of the previous =
step, add=20
ingredients (9) and (10), slowly with constant agitation at an impeller =
rate of=20
50 rpm. Care must be taken at this point in the reaction to control any=20
temperature rise that may be the result of an exothermic reaction. =
<BR></FONT>
<P><FONT face=3DArial>Using a screw extrude attached to a #4 nodulizer, =
place 10.0=20
cm<SUP>3</SUP> nodules of the mixture in ordered ranks on a 316SS sheet =
(30.0 cm=20
X 60.0 cm). Heat in a 460=B0K oven for a period of time that is in =
agreement with=20
Frank &amp; Johnson's first order rate expression (see JACOS, 21, 55), =
or until=20
golden brown.<BR></FONT>
<P><FONT face=3DArial>Once the reaction is complete, place the sheet on =
a 297=B0K=20
heat-transfer table, allowing the product to come to thermal equilibrium =
with=20
ambient atmospheric temperature.<BR></FONT>
<P><B><FONT face=3DArial>WARNING: <BR></FONT></B>
<P align=3Dcenter text=3D"#ff0000"><B><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>These =
procedures are=20
designed for trained processionals; don't try this at home.</FONT></B>=20
</P></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
  <A title=3Dsprocket80@hotmail.com =
href=3D"mailto:sprocket80@hotmail.com">Toad the=20
  Wet Sprocket</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=3Drhodes22-list@rhodes22.org=20
  =
href=3D"mailto:rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org">rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org</A>=
 </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Thursday, August 22, 2002 =
8:40=20
  AM</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: [Rhodes22-list] =
shroud=20
  tension jokes</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV>
  <DIV>
  <DIV>
  <P><BR><BR></P>
  <DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>
  <P>Roger,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; </P></DIV>
  <P>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; I very much appreciate the =
information you=20
  posted on the Rhodes list server.&nbsp; I was only joking around about =
the=20
  banana and tape measure remarks.&nbsp;&nbsp; I know absolutely zero =
about=20
  tuning a sailing rig, but I do know from reading the posts =
on&nbsp;other=20
  discussion boards that the subject is as heated as religion=20
  or&nbsp;politics.&nbsp;That is&nbsp;why I made a joke. I am not an =
engineer=20
  but I&nbsp;was an aircraft mechanic by trade and I, as I am certain =
that you=20
  do, take a perfectionist's approach to all things =
mechanical.&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
  </P></DIV>
  <P>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; I will try to keep my joking to a minimum =
in the=20
  future especially because it is most times impossible for a reader to =
tell=20
  when I am goofing around.</P>
  <DIV></DIV>
  <P>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Your later posts did help as well by =
illustrating=20
  the reasons for the higher tension on the forward lower shrouds.&nbsp; =
Now I=20
  have a clearer picture of some of the dynamics involved in rig tuning =
and=20
  along with your advice I will do my own trials to find settings that =
suit=20
  my&nbsp;sailing style/ability and conditions.</P>
  <DIV></DIV>
  <P>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Again, let me apologize for making a joke =
at your=20
  expense.&nbsp; I did not intend to anger you' especially to the point =
that=20
  you'd refrain from future postings.&nbsp; My joking often gets me in =
trouble,=20
  but that's just who I am.</P>
  <DIV></DIV>
  <P>Todd</P>
  <DIV></DIV>
  <P>P.S.&nbsp; What was the ambient temperature when you tuned your=20
  rig??&nbsp;&nbsp; (joke)&nbsp; Do you still have your original sails =
and if=20
  so, do you want to sell them?</P>
  <DIV></DIV>
  <P>&nbsp;</P>
  <DIV></DIV>
  <P>&nbsp;</P>
  <DIV></DIV>
  <P><BR><BR><BR><BR></P>
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV><BR><BR><BR>Please respond to sprocket80@hotmail.com=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>From: "Roger Pihlaja" <CEN09402@CENTURYTEL.NET>
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>Reply-To: rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>To: <RHODES22-LIST@RHODES22.ORG>
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] shroud tension jokes=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 11:07:16 -0400=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>Dear Toad,=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>First of all, I'm an engineer &amp; I've owned my Rhodes 22 =
since=20
  the spring of 1987. Stan @ GBI will never be this specific with rig =
tuning=20
  specs. It's just not his nature. Early on, I purchased a Loo's tension =
gage,=20
  started doing experiments, making measurements, &amp; racing my boat. =
The=20
  specs I gave you are the lowest static tension settings that yield the =
desired=20
  dynamic behavior in the sailing rig. By the way, totalling up the lbs =
of=20
  tension in the standing rigging doesn't tell you very much. Each stay =
is=20
  loaded individually. The ultimate tensile strength of those 5/32" OD, =
1 X 19,=20
  316 stainless steel wires is on the order of 2800 lbs. At 600 lbs max =
tension=20
  on the loaded windward upper sidestay, my suggested rig tension =
settings leave=20
  a safety factor of more than 4X.=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>The only part of the standing wire rigging I've upgraded =
was my=20
  forestay wire to 3/16" OD, which has an ultimate tensile strength of =
about=20
  4000 lbs. I did this wire size upgrade when I replaced my OEM standard =
roller=20
  furler to a Harken Unit 0. 3/16" OD wire in the forestay is probably =
overkill.=20
  But, 3/16" OD was the largest standard size available for the Harken =
Unit 0. I=20
  had to replace the forestay anyway as part of the installation, there =
was no=20
  good reason not to upgrade, &amp; it seemed like cheap insurance.=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>The breaking strength of the wires &amp; the swaged =
terminals are=20
  the limiting factors. The chainplates can hold much more than the rest =
of the=20
  rig. You could confidently lift the entire boat suspended from the =
upper side=20
  chainplates. They don't need to be upgraded.=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>The mast compression post is only loaded to a small =
fraction of its=20
  buckling strength. Don't worry about it.=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>Look on page 970 of the WEST Marine 2002 Master catalog for =
a Loo's=20
  tension gage. You would need to order a Loo's model 91A or PT1.=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>As I said in my post, I was trying to use the image of the =
ends of=20
  the hull bending upward like a "22 foot long banana" under rig stress =
as a=20
  "greatly exagerated" illustration of the effects involved. The real =
hull=20
  deflection is subtle, certainly not observable without precision =
measurement=20
  instruments.=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>Since I suggested adjusting the length of the forestay in =
1/2"=20
  increments to adjust your weather helm/lee helm balance, if you =
measure the=20
  forestay length to 1/4 of that increment, or 1/8" accuracy, that will =
be=20
  sufficient resolution. You are quite correct, I had too many =
significant=20
  figures in my forestay length spec. It should have read 333-5/8".=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>Criticize me if you wish, but did anyone else give you =
anything but=20
  qualitative descriptions of rig tuning? Why don't you try my rig =
tuning=20
  procedure &amp; see what you think?=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>Roger Pihlaja=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>S/V Dynamic Equilibrium=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>----- Original Message -----=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>From: Toad the Wet Sprocket=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>To: rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>Sent: Tuesday, August 20, 2002 3:30 PM=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] shroud tension jokes=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>Roger,=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>So you have a total of 1800lbs of tension on all of your =
shrouds,=20
  not to mention the fore/backstay tension? Where did you come up with =
all of=20
  these figures? Are these the specs from Stan and the guys at GB? This =
all=20
  seems like quite a strain on the chain plates and alot of compression =
down=20
  through the mast into the hull.=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>Did you replace your rigging with larger cables or beef up =
the=20
  chain plate mountings?=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>Where can one buy the guage you have and a tape measure =
that=20
  measures to three decimal places? Is my boat supposed to bend up at =
the ends=20
  like a 22 foot banana too?=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>Sorry, I couldn't resist. I was in a goofy mood today. =
Honestly,=20
  where did you get these specs?=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>Please respond to sprocket80@hotmail.com=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>From: "Roger Pihlaja"=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>Reply-To: rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>To:=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] shroud tension=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2002 07:56:38 -0400=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>Jack,=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>Here's a copy of the rig tuning procedure I use:=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>The 1st thing you want to do is measure the length of the =
forestay=20
  on center=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>from pin-to-pin. On my 1976, standard mainsail, Rhodes 22, =
this=20
  measurement=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>is 333.625 inches. Write this number down because it is =
very=20
  important.=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>If your forestay length is more than a couple of inches =
different=20
  than this,=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>you might want to reset it 333.625 inches as a reasonable =
starting=20
  point.=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>Now step the mast. Take the excess slack out of the =
forestay &amp;=20
  backstays=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>with the backstay adjuster. You don't want things real =
tight at=20
  this point.=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>All upper &amp; lower sidestays should be slack. Go to the =
base of=20
  the mast,=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>pull a halyard taut along the mast &amp; sight up the mast =
from the=20
  rear &amp; from=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>the side. Any deviation from a straight mast will show up =
as a gap=20
  between=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>the mast &amp; the halyard. There should be no observable =
bend or=20
  bowing in the=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>mast. If there is, the mast may have been dropped &amp; =
bent at=20
  some point or=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>may have some other problem. You should call Stan at GBI =
&amp; he=20
  will be able=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>to help you work out your problem.=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>I like to use a Loo's tension gage. The model 91 is the =
appropriate=20
  range=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>for the Rhodes 22. Remember to always measure the tension =
at the=20
  same=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>relative position on each shroud every time. On Dynamic=20
  Equilibrium, I=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>have marked these measurement points with little spots of =
paint on=20
  the=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>wire right at my eye level.=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>The upper sidestays are adjusted next. Raise a tape measure =
up the=20
  mast on=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>a halyard. Measure to the same point on each side of the =
boat. I=20
  like to=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>use the edge of the toerail right next to the sidestay. =
Tighten the=20

  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>turnbuckles a little at a time on each side to adjust the =
upper=20
  sidestays=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>until both sides are the same length +/- 1/4" &amp; =
tensioned to=20
  approximately=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>300 lbs +/- 5%. This procedure assures the top of the mast =
is=20
  centered in=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>the boat &amp; the upper sidestays are tensioned equally =
port &amp;=20
  starboard.=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>What you do next depends upon whether your boat has the IMF =

  mainsail or a=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>conventional mainsail.=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>On an IMF mainsail boat, I would adjust the 4 lower =
sidestays so=20
  they were=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>all approximately the same tension. I would start with=20
  approximately 200=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>lbs +/- 5% on all 4 lowers. This is not a lot of shroud =
tension.=20
  Check for=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>mast straightness with the halyard again. You want the mast =
to be=20
  straight=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>in order for the IMF furling mechanism inside of it to be =
able to=20
  turn=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>without binding &amp;/or excessive wear on the bearings. =
Minor=20
  bending or=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>bowing can be taken out with the lower sidestays. However, =
I would=20
  call=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>Stan at GBI if I couldn't get the mast to straighten out =
with a=20
  difference=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>of about +/- 15% on lower sidestay tension.=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>My Rhodes 22 has a conventional mainsail. I have a very =
roachy=20
  fully=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>battened mainsail which has been cut to respond to mast =
bend. I=20
  have my=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>backstay adjuster set-up to adjust quickly from the cockpit =
with=20
  calibration=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>marks on the line.=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>Tighten the turnbuckles equally &amp; a little a time on =
each side=20
  to keep=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>things reasonably centered. I adjust the forward lower =
sidestays to=20
  400 lbs=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>+/- 5% of tension, and the aft lower sidestays to 200 lbs =
+/- 5% of=20
  tension.=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>Then, check for mast straightness with the halyard. Believe =
it or=20
  not, the=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>standard mast on the Rhodes 22 is such a stiff telephone =
pole that,=20
  at 200=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>lbs differential tension on the lowers, there will be a =
barely=20
  detectable=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>fore/aft bend in the mast with no sails set &amp; the =
backstay=20
  adjuster slack.=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>At 400 lbs of tension on the lower forward sidestays, when =
the=20
  backstay=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>adjuster is tensioned, primarily only the upper half of the =
mast is=20
  pulled=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>towards the stern. The forestay is tightened &amp; the mast =
is bent=20
  at the same=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>time. Both actions are exactly what you want to obtain =
proper sail=20
  shape in=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>a high wind situation.=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>Now go out sailing. On a close hauled course, put up enough =
sail to=20
  heel=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>the boat over about 15-20 deg. Make certain the rudder =
blade &amp;=20
  centerboard=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>are all the way down. On my Rhodes 22, the above tension =
settings=20
  cause the=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>mast to remain straight &amp; more or less centered in the =
boat.=20
  The primary=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>thing to check is the upper sidestays. On my Rhodes 22 with =
the=20
  above=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>unloaded tension settings, at 15-20 deg of heel, the =
windward upper=20
  sidestay=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>should have about 450 lbs tension &amp; the leeward upper =
sidestay=20
  should have=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>about 150 lbs of tension. I have my upper sidestays set-up =
such=20
  that the=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>leeward upper sidestay tension drops to 0 lbs at about 30 =
degrees=20
  of heel.=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>At this point, the windward upper sidestay will be under =
about 600=20
  lbs=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>tension. Note, normally the stays are set-up to give proper =
shroud=20
  tension=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>&amp; the correct amount of weather helm with full sail =
set. This=20
  tends to=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>limit the weather window in which you can do this sort of =
tuning.=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>When all sails are properly trimmed &amp; the boat is "in =
the=20
  groove", there=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>should only a slight amount of weather helm. If there is a =
huge=20
  weather=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>helm, or neutral, or lee helm; then, you need to adjust the =
rake=20
  angle of=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>the mast. If you have neutral or lee helm; then increase =
the=20
  forestay=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>length. To get rid of excessive weather helm, shorten the =
forestay.=20
  The=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>balance of the boat is very sensitive to this mast rake =
angle, so=20
  change it=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>in increments of about 1/2" at a time. Note, a slight =
amount of=20
  weather=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>helm=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>is desirable because it provides feedback to the helmsman, =
thus=20
  allowing=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>him to steer a better course. Excessive weather helm tends =
to tire=20
  the=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>helmsman out.=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>Once I'm happy, I lock the adjustment in place by taping =
the lock=20
  nuts on=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>the turnbuckles. I find I only need to do this adjustment =
once. The=20

  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>Rhodes 22 is such a strongly built little boat that nothing =
ever=20
  seems to=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>stretch or bend. I do check the side-to-side upper sidestay =
length=20
  at the=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>beginning of every season; but, it's never changed in the =
13+=20
  seasons I've=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>been measuring it. Trailering set-up only involves =
adjusting the=20
  lower=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>sidestays since the rest are not disturbed.=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>As far as rig tension settings on the trailer vs. off the =
trailer,=20
  I've=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>found the=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>only rig tension adjustment that significantly changes is =
the=20
  backstay=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>tension.=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>You can set the tension on the rest of the standing rigging =

  according to the=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>above procedure on the trailer. It will be very close to =
optimum=20
  when you=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>get the boat in the water, certainly good enough to do the=20
  on-the-water=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>fine tuning described above.=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>FYI, I slack off on the backstay tension when Dynamic =
Equilibrium=20
  is not=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>being sailed. As I mentioned above, the backstay adjuster =
has=20
  sufficient=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>power to affect the shape of the hull. Greatly exaggerated, =
imagine=20
  the=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>ends=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>of the hull being pulled upward like a 22 foot long banana =
when the=20
  backstay=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>adjuster is tight! There is no sense leaving the hull &amp; =
rig=20
  under that kind=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>of=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>stress when the boat is not being sailed.=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>Jack, I hope this description of rig tuning helps you. Good =
luck!=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>Roger Pihlaja=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>S/V Dynamic Equilibrium=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>----- Original Message -----=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>From: "Jack Goldberg"=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>To:=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>Sent: Monday, August 19, 2002 7:47 PM=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>Subject: [Rhodes22-list] shroud tension=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>&gt; This list has been helpful in the past, so I'll come =
to the=20
  trough of=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>&gt; knowledge to feed again.=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>&gt; I noted with interest the thread about the mast plate =
bolts=20
  coming loose=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>and=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>&gt; the response with regard to the tension of the =
shrouds. My 84'=20
  has a=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>&gt; standard main. When I bought the boat this spring, the =
shrouds=20
  were very=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>&gt; loose (obout 3 inches of play from side to side at =
about 3=20
  feet from the=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>&gt; deck. The guy I bought the boat from said that was OK, =
but now=20
  I'm=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>worried.=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>&gt; Is there a spec' on how tight (or loose) the shrouds =
should be=20
  under no=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>&gt; load?=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>&gt;=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>&gt; Jack Goldberg,=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>&gt;=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>&gt;=20
  _________________________________________________________________=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>&gt; MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your =
photos:=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>&gt; http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>&gt;=20
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>&gt; _______________________________________=20
  <DIV></DIV>
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