[Rhodes22-list] RE: bilge pump

Thu, 5 Sep 2002 10:30:30 -0400

Bill, a couple of comments
Your installation sounds great except for one thing.  I STRONGLY =
recommend you install an in-line fuse.  A short circuit on an un-fused =
line will cause the wiring to go red hot and could well start a fire =
that can cost you your boat.  Wiring direct to the battery is a good =
thing and is the general recommendation for bilge pumps.  You might =
reconsider the use of a check valve.  They have a nasty habit of getting =
stuck, usually in the open position.  This obviously isn't a disaster, =
just an inconvienence but a loop of hose in an inconspicuous place is =
far more reliable. =20
John Roland

-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Berner [mailto:dblbld@attglobal.net]
Sent: Tuesday, September 03, 2002 11:01 AM
To: rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] RE: bilge pump

I'm not saying that this the RIGHT way to do a bilge pump, but it is how
I did a bilge pump.

I personally guarantee that if Roger has one (and I've got a wad of cash
to bet that he has at least one), he will  have the definitive word on
installation.

FWIW - here's my scheme.

1985 Rhodes w/o private head.

I have a small Rule bump, 300 GPM if I recall.  It is mounted, along
with a rule float switch to a small block of marine ply that I mounted
in the bilge on centerline below an access panel I cut into the sole
just aft of the Vee Berth adjacent to where my porta potty is located.
I had noticed that water collected up there as well as in the main part
of the bilge.

I also drilled a few small holes in the stringer that separates this
area from the area of the bilge under the GB access panel. That way
water in the larger part of the bilge could get to where the bilge pump
is.

I installed a through hull fitting on the port side of the hull a foot
or so above the water line adjacent to the bilge pump location.  I
experienced some back flow issues when the boat heeled, so I went back
and installed a check valve in the hose line to solve that problem.  I
didn't want a visible hose in the cabin, or long run of hose.

I also have a Rule 3 way switch (man/auto/off) installed under the
hinged step on the port side adjacent to the porta potty.  It is wired
DIRECTLY to the battery.  I don't recall if I have an inline fuse
installed or not, and don't recall if it is recommended.  I stand behind
the decision not to connect through the electrical panel.  The idea is
that should the panel fail, the bilge pump will still work.  All of the
electrical connections to the switch and pump are very well insulated
with shrink tube, tape, and or that really nasty liquid insulation that
WM sells.

I have never gotten enough water to kick in the float switch, and don't
rarely get enough to use the pump at all.  I use a sponge and bucket far
more often.

In retrospect, I might change one thing.  I would mount the pump under
the GB access panel to the bilge, as I do get more (though not
significant) water there. If I remember right my thinking was that the
routing of the hose and wiring would be easier farther forward.

That's my story, but I'd wait for Mr. P's opinion.

BB

Bill Berner
191 South Broadway
Hastings on Hudson, NY  10706

v 914 478 2896
f 914 478 3856

-----Original Message-----
From: rhodes22-list-admin@rhodes22.org
[mailto:rhodes22-list-admin@rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of brad haslett
Sent: Tuesday, September 03, 2002 9:36 AM
To: rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] bilge pump

Rummy, thanks for the response.  "The Rest of the
Story" as is now popular on the list is this:  My boat
is presently in the back yard awaiting slip space on
Pickwick Lake (coming soon).  I was out of town during
a week of rain and one of the cockpit drains near the
lazaret stopped up with leaves and the excess water
overflowed into the lazaret.  When I stepped on the
trailer to work on the boat it gently fell on its ass,
I mean transom.  No damage was done other than
embarrasment at being such a careless owner.  At the
risk of being paranoid, Murphy's Law and all, I'm
going to be pro-active and install a pump.  Besides,
I'm upgrading the electrical system and have an empty
circuit on the DC panel.  Speaking of electricity,
slip spaces are available at Pickwick much sooner
without electricity so that's the route I'm taking. I
purchased a Honda eu1000 generator, 26lbs, and am
incorporating it into the total ship energy package.=20
Anyone else have experience with onboard generators on
a Rhodes 22?

Brad Haslett
"CoraShen"

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