[Rhodes22-list] winter projects
Roger Pihlaja
cen09402@centurytel.net
Thu, 30 Jan 2003 07:22:00 -0500
Slim,
Ed is right, Get Rot works pretty well. My only issue with Get Rot is that
it is rather expensive. In my experience, you can get comparable or better
results for significantly less money by using WEST System epoxy products.
In order to make a penetrating "Get Rot-Like" epoxy, I would use WEST 105
Epoxy Resin mixed in a 3:1 ratio with WEST 209 Extra Slow Hardener. At 70
deg F, the WEST 209 Extra Slow Hardener has about a 60 minute pot life & a
24 hour cure time. Make certain the wood is very dry before you apply the
epoxy. The rotten wood is loaded with air pockets & you want them to be
filled up with epoxy, not water. You would keep brushing or rolling on the
uncured epoxy & letting it soak into the rotted wood until the epoxy gels.
With a relatively small item, like a tiller, you will get the best results
if you can rig up a way to slowly rotate the tiller while you are applying
the epoxy. This will help prevent the thin epoxy from simply running off
the surface before it has a chance to soak into the wood. I use a lathe
setup to rotate at about 6 rpm, but something like a Bar-B-Que rotisserie
also works pretty well. If you have any deeply penetrating cracks; then,
you can inject epoxy into the crack using a hypodermic syringe. You want to
make certain the epoxy gets down to the bottom of the crack & soaks into the
sides of the crack before it gels. If you don't inject the epoxy; then,
trapped air bubbles & capillary forces in the narrow crack will prevent the
epoxy from reaching the bottom of the crack.
After the slow curing epoxy gels, but before it completely cures, is the
best time to build up the surface in order to repair any area where material
is missing. Like say, if there was a big chunk of rotten wood missing from
some spot. I would use WEST 105 Epoxy Resin mixed at a 3:1 ratio with WEST
205 Fast Hardener, & WEST 406 Colloidal Silica Thickener/Filling Agent to
make a thickened epoxy. This fast epoxy would be troweled on top of the not
fully cured slow epoxy in the area to be built up & allowed to gel. At 70
deg F, the WEST 205 Fast Hardener has about a 12 minute pot life & about an
8 hour cure time. If you apply it to the slow epoxy before it has fully
cured; then, the bond between the two will the strongest possible - like
undetectable at the molecular level. If you wait until the slow epoxy has
fully cured; then, you will have to sand the surface to provide "tooth" for
the thickened fast epoxy to bond to. You must also clean the cured slow
epoxy surface with acetone to remove the residual amines which bleed to the
surface & tend to interfere with getting a good bond between the two
epoxies.
Any epoxy does not have very good UV resistance. So you are going to have
to keep a good coat of varnish or paint on your repaired tiller. I would
use one of the polyurethane varnishes.
By the way, new tillers are not that expensive if all this sounds like a
messy royal PITA!
Good luck!
Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kroposki" <kroposki@innova.net>
To: "'The Rhodes 22 mail list'" <rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org>
Sent: Wednesday, January 29, 2003 11:45 PM
Subject: RE: [Rhodes22-list] winter projects
> Slim,
> Get Rot is a penetrating epoxy. I have used it and it works. You
> drill holes into the rotted wood to get saturation. Then saturate let
> dry and layer up to the desired level. You can varnish over it for a
> uniform finish. It is supposed to be quite strong. It will also work
> on any rotted wood that is reasonably dry. It is supposed to even work
> on wet wood. It dries clear to show the wood.
> But if you have a lot of deterioration, it might be better to
> follow Rummy's suggestion to a new tiller.
> Ed K
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rhodes22-list-bounces@rhodes22.org
> [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces@rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Steve Alm
> Sent: Wednesday, January 29, 2003 12:55 PM
> To: Rhodes
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] winter projects
>
> I'll be doing my tiller this winter too. There are some areas where the
> wood is pitted and rotten. To sand all the rot out would take it down
> too
> far. I've heard of something called "Get Rot" or something that you can
> put
> on rotting wood to stabilize it. Anybody know what that is?
>
> Slim
>
> On 1/29/03 7:41 AM, "Ben Schultz" <BenS@ApproSystems.com> wrote:
>
> > I stripped, sanded, and re-varnished my tiller over the last couple of
> > weekends, and I have to say, I didn't know it could look that good.
> If
> > anyone has a tiller that is less than gleaming, I would highly
> recommend
> > this as an easy and satisfying project that can kill some weekend
> hours
> > until sailing starts again.
> >
> > If the weather holds this weekend (sunny and high 60's both days), I
> am
> > going to install the tiller auto-pilot that Santa brought me, and
> start
> > sailing. I went to do my install once, but got carried away with
> other
> > maintenance and never got to it. Any gotchas on installing the
> ST1000+ ?
> >
> > Anyone else doing interesting things with their boats during the off
> season?
> >
> > Ben
> > R22 Velvet Elvis
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
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