[Rhodes22-list] Re: CB trunk delam update

[Roger Pihlaja]

Lou,

So, the small circular saw blade in the Dremel Multitool worked OK for you?

If the cement is damp; then, you will probably have problems in the future
with delamination.  Is there any way you can leave the exposed cement open
to the atmosphere for a while so it can dry out?  Even better, is there any
way to put an electric space heater blowing on it to dry it out more
thoroughly?

1. I  know you said I needed to bridge the gap btw the garolite and the wall
with tape and I think I can do it .. will try to buy  medical forceps for
this job, but don't you think a few layers of thickened epoxy would also do
if I keep the gap to a minimal space?

Hey, if you absolutely can't get in there to laminate a piece of fiberglass
tape across the crack between the G-10 patch and the centerboard well; then,
troweling some thickened epoxy into the crack would be better than nothing.
The trouble is, the shear strength of these polymers isn't their strongest
MOC property.  You will have to worry about long term creep and sheer
failure.

Consider making a cardboard mockup of the G-10 patch that you can trim to
exactly fit the hole in the centerboard well.  Then, you can use the
cardboard mockup as a template for the G-10.  Once you have cut & trimmed
the G-10 patch such that it dry fits the hole, consider laminating half the
width of the fiberglass tape onto the perimeter of the G-10 patch before you
install the patch into the centerboard well.  Let the epoxy on the
fiberglass tape only cure to the green state & then quickly install the
patch with thickened epoxy bonding the patch to the concrete, thickened
epoxy in the crack between the G-10 patch and the centerboard well, &
thickened epoxy on the fiberglass tape.  This technique has the advantage
that the fiberglass tape will be automatically held in perfect alignment &
prevents the G-10 patch from being inserted too deeply.

2. Would I need to bevel the trunk wall even though its been sanded down?

I'm not certain I understand the question.   If you are wondering about
sanding a relief into the centerboard well all around the edge of the hole
so there is room to laminate the fiberglass tape across the crack & not have
it stick up above the surface - The answer is yes, you should do that.  If
that's not the question; then, you will have to clarify.

3. Is it common on most older Rhodes for the pendant to be run right through
the hole in the board or do some boats have a U-shaped SS fitting which
attaches through the hole?  Mine had no fitting but I machined one from 3/32
thick SS,  and now am wondering if there will be clearance for the bolt.
This part of the board has to move through the trunk the most so I realize
its clearances are crucial.

My centerboard pennant is attached with a simple hole thru the centerboard.
I can't speak for other boats.  Perhaps Stan has better data.  If you have a
centerboard width clearance problem associated with the diameter of the rope
loop thru the hole; then, a U-shaped SS shackle could be used to reduce the
width.  You can reduce the width of the thru bolt on the shackle by using a
round head machine screw with a chrome plated barrel nut.  One possible
downside of this strategy is the extra vertical clearance required between
the aft edge of the centerboard and the top of the centerboard well because
of the shackle.

Once you've done the best repair job you can with the centerboard well;
then, any remaining interference will have to be removed from the
centerboard.

Certainly, if there are any leaks between the centerboard well & the bilge;
then, these are going to have to taken care of.  At least these leaks should
be relatively easy to get at!

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium


----- Original Message -----
From: "Lou Rosenberg" <steadilsr at verizon.net>
To: "The Rhodes 22 mail list" <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Sent: Sunday, December 12, 2004 5:06 PM
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Re: CB trunk delam update


> Roger,
>
>   Ok got down to cutting a 10"x5" swath of the CB trunk out with the
> dremel tool today.   The garolite should arrive tomorrow, and I dont
> think i can remove the narrowest section of the bulging by the rear of
> the board where its at the narrowest opening in the trunk.   So I have
> to make the tough call and just leave it alone and not pull the board
> all the way up.
>   Using a mirror on a sharpie pen, I was able to see the small void
> where the cement had become loose and expanded,  It did feel somewhat
> moist but not wet.  Getting the lower part of the bulge out is the most
> difficult and I will have to come back and work from below on  my back
> , mask and goggles all the way.  Hopefully we will not get blitzed with
> as much snow as Michigan probably has already!
>
>   NEW QUESTIONS:
>
> 1. I  know you said i needed to bridge the gap btw the garolite and the
> wall with tape and I think I can do it .. will try to buy  medical
> forcepts for this job, but dont you think a few layers of thickened
> epoxy would also do if i keep the gap to a minimal space?
>
>   2.Would i need to bevel the trunk wall even though  its been sanded
> down?
>
> I took my cam today but didnt really have time since I am my marina is
> having issues with power.
> If we dont get blasted with sub zero temps in late Dec, i get a week
> off from Christmas to New Years and plan to do as much as I can that
> week to fix the trunk.
>
>   I did find the source of the water  intrusion to the ballast.  Where
> the cap bolt flange meets the bilge there is a space where the rain
> water must have found its way down into the cement.  It looks like just
> poor workmanship or a combo of water damage and not enough epoxy there.
>    I will have to clean out the ENTIRE length of the CB trunk joint to
> the bilge and re epoxy.  I  might glass the entire gap if I find its
> been compromised through out.. That is a fun job compared to what i
> have got to do  with the trunk.
> BTW:   I think I actually ran my hand around that space when i examined
> the boat for the first time , cringing at how damp it was back in
> August, but would have had to get my fingers behind the bolts to feel
> the crack and space opened by years of neglect and too little epoxy or
> glass.
>   I plan to bring the cleaned up board next time and see how it fits.
>
>   ONE LAST questions whenever you get a chance:
>
> 3, Is it common on most older Rhodes for the pendant to be run right
> through the hole in the board or do some boats have a U shaped SS
> fitting which attaches through the hole?  Mine had no fitting but I
> machined one from 3/32 thick SS,  and now am wondering if there will be
> clearance for the bolt.  This part of the board has to move through the
> trunk the most so I realize its clearances are crucial.
>   Thanks Roger,
>    Lou
>
>
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