[Rhodes22-list] 2 cycle vs 4 cycle

[Steve]

I thought the reason they came out with 4 strocks were
to satify the Non-smoking folks:-) You know, you have
a smoking part of a Restaurant; and a non-smoking
part.  You can now have a smoking part of a lake; & a
non-smoking part:-)You see, the more folks that go 4
stoke; that means the more folks that can go 2 stoke. 
And the enviroment only get poluted the same amount
that we have always done for years:-)Beside, we need a
little more Globle warming.  Temps here are in the
40s.  That evendent that we need to polute quite a bit
more.  Arkansas need to be warm up so are winter stay
above 50 degrees:-)What are you thinking, Michael:-)
Steve


--- Michael Meltzer <mjm at michaelmeltzer.com> wrote:
> Well lets try a differ tack for the sessions version
> of the question, "So how much harm are you willing
> to cause, like: frogs
> killed, fish unfit to eat, woman miscarry, children
> born with birth defects, men going impememnt, etc..
> so you can selflessy use
> your 2 stoke". BTW did you beat your wife to day :-)
> 
> MJM
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Kroposki" <kroposki at innova.net>
> To: "'The Rhodes 22 mail list'"
> <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2004 9:12 AM
> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] 2 cycle vs 4 cycle
> 
> 
> > Rummy,
> > Here we go again.  I know better than question the
> technical
> > accuracy and efficacy of Roger's eloquent
> discussion, but I can lift my
> > 2 cycle when I have to by myself.  Roger forgets
> that not everybody has
> > two robust sons to help.  It is the old problem of
> being able to see a
> > tree when you are in a forest.
> > Ed K
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
> > [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On
> Behalf Of Roger Pihlaja
> > Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2004 7:52 AM
> > To: The Rhodes 22 mail list
> > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Yamaha 9.9 Water Pump
> Replacement
> >
> > Jay,
> >
> > The usual problem with the water pump impellors on
> small outboards is
> > that
> > they are made from some sort of rubber.  It's
> really a rather clever
> > design.
> > At low speed & at start-up, the rubber vanes on
> the impellor touch the
> > water
> > pump housing, thus making the pump positive
> displacement & self-priming.
> > At
> > high speed, the rubber vanes deflect out of the
> way & ride on top of a
> > boundary layer of water on the wetted surface of
> the water pump housing.
> > At
> > high speed, the vanes don't experience any wear
> because they are not
> > touching the pump housing.  This design makes the
> water pump capable of
> > automatically switching from positive displacement
> mode to centrifugal
> > mode
> > for delivering the high volume of cooling water
> required by high speed
> > operation.
> >
> > So what goes wrong?  Well, if the water pump ever
> runs dry, the rubber
> > impellor will lose the lubrication & cooling
> provided by the water,
> > overheat, & destroy itself very quickly, like in a
> few seconds!
> > Exposure to
> > oil & gasoline in the water (like the oil film
> that laid down by 2-cycle
> > outboards) will gradually break down the rubber
> polymer molecules in the
> > impellor; leading to embrittlement, cracking, and
> failure.  This is
> > probably
> > the single biggest long-term failure mechanism. 
> Pump impellors should
> > be
> > routinely replaced every 4 years due to this cause
> alone.  There is also
> > another common failure mechanism related to
> storage.  When the lower leg
> > is
> > lifted free of the water, the entire cooling
> system drains down.  This
> > is
> > why the water pump needs to be self-priming at
> start-up.  Even fresh
> > water &
> > especially ocean water, has a certain amount of
> dissolved mineral salts
> > in
> > it.  When the cooling system drains down, a small
> amount of water is
> > left
> > trapped in between the ends of the vanes on the
> water pump impellor &
> > the
> > aluminum pump housing.  When this water eventually
> evaporates in
> > storage,
> > the impellor vanes can be bonded by salt crystals
> to the pump housing.
> > Depending upon how strong this bond is, the rubber
> impellor can be
> > damaged
> > the next time the engine is started when the vanes
> are ripped free of
> > the
> > salt crystals.  In addition, for the 1st few
> minutes of operation,
> > before
> > the salt crystals dissolve, they form a relatively
> rough surface on the
> > water pump housing that the rubber vanes have to
> run over on every
> > revolution.  Finally, there can be corrosion
> issues with moist salt
> > crystals
> > in long-term contact with the aluminum pump
> housing in this scenario.
> > In
> > salt water, it's considered good practice to fresh
> water flush the
> > cooling
> > system after every use & certainly before
> long-term storage.  After
> > long-term storage, it wouldn't hurt to fresh water
> flush the cooling
> > system
> > prior to start-up.  As part of my outboard
> winterizing proceedure, I
> > flush
> > propylene gylcol potable antifreeze (RV "red pop")
> thru the cooling
> > systems
> > of my outboards.  propylene glycol will prevent
> the build-up of salt
> > crystals in-between the vanes and the water pump
> housing.  During the
> > boating season, on every start-up, I gently pull
> the outboard thru with
> > the
> > pull cord prior to starting it to break the water
> pump impellor free &
> > give
> > the engine several minutes of low speed warm-up.
> >
> > The result, the only water pump I've ever had fail
> on any of my
> > outboards in
> > 25+ years of boating was the time when my younger
> son Gary ran the
> > inflatable dingy & Honda 9.9 hp outboard up on the
> beach with the engine
> > at
> > full throttle.  The water pump impellor was burnt
> to a crisp!
> >
> > Good luck!
> >
> > Roger Pihlaja
> > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Michael Meltzer" <mjm at michaelmeltzer.com>
> > To: "The Rhodes 22 mail list"
> <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2004 2:25 AM
> > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Yamaha 9.9 Water Pump
> Replacement
> >
> >
> > > sounds like overkill and make work, maybe the
> impeller very 4 years,
> > but
> > the complete pump, nah. you are only putting 25-50
> hours on
> > > the motor every year, one thing you do have to
> watch is salt on the
> > thermostat(and blow the pelages, clean the pee tub
> yearly), is
> > > one of the few parts on the engine that is not
> rust proof, time will
> > get
> > it and they need to be replace every two years,
> luckily it
> > > is also a simple job that you can do yourself.
> > >
> > > MJM
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Jay Friedland" <a.jayf at verizon.net>
> > > To: "The Rhodes 22 mail list"
> <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > > Sent: Tuesday, February 10, 2004 11:25 AM
> > > Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Yamaha 9.9 Water Pump
> Replacement
> > >
> > >
> > > > Folks,
> > > > My ob service guy says Yam recommends
> replacing the water pump
> > assembly
> > > > every year. The motor is 2001 with this the
> first year in service.
> > I'm
> > > > in salt water 9-10 months, occasionally flush
> with ear muffs (once a
> > > > month), and end of season run it in a barrel
> of fresh water for 1/2
> > > > hour (alos to burn off deposits, etc.).
> > > >
> > > > Anybody offer best suggestions on proceeding
> with this replacement
> > or
> > > > any other winter routine?
> > > >   Thanks, Jay
> > > >
> > > >
> __________________________________________________
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> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> __________________________________________________
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> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > __________________________________________________
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> >
> >
> > __________________________________________________
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> >
> >
> 
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