[Rhodes22-list] New Owner Questions ...

[Roger Pihlaja]

Bob,

OK, why don't we want the gutter drains in the extreme front corners of the
cockpit seats?

If you look under the seats in the front corners of the cockpit, you will
see an opening in the bulkhead between the cockpit and the cabin.  This
opening is located just under the seats & is required by the manufacturing
process used to construct the boat.  It turns out that GBI adjusts the
fore/aft position of the internal ballast in the keel to cause the boat to
trim slightly bow down when there is no one on board.  This trim allows the
boat to float level on the waterline when there are people in the cockpit
adding their weight to the stern of the boat.

Dynamic Equilibrium, a 1976 Rhodes 22, had your unattended rain water
leakage problem.  I struggled with the problem for a very long time before I
accidently figured it out.  Here's what I found.  When the boat is
unattended & the fore/aft trim is slightly bow down, large amounts of rain
water are efficiently collected by the cockpit seats.  Part of this rain
water is directed by the seat gutters to the gutter drains in the front
corners of the cockpit.  With the gutter drains in the corners and fore/aft
trim bow down, this water actually runs into the opening in the cabin
bulkhead and finds its way into the bilge!  You will never discover this
problem when you are on board investigating, because your weight affects the
fore/aft trim, the water drains down into the cockpit as it you would
expect, & the problem goes away while you are on the boat.  The solution is
to close up the corner drain holes with epoxy and redrill these holes a
couple of inches aft.  Another good precaution is to apply a blob of epoxy
to the underside of the seat drain gutter (underneath the cockpit seats)
just fore and aft of the new drain holes.  These blobs of epoxy will provide
defined "drip points" to prevent water from migrating along the underside of
the drain gutters and causing a new "leak" in some other unexpected
location.  Instead any water wicking along the underside of the gutter will
be collect at the blob of epoxy and harmlessly drip down onto the cockpit
sole.

As far as all the other possible leaks, the best way to find them is to seal
yourself up inside the cabin.  Then, have an assistant spray the boat with
water from a hose while you search for leaks in the cabin.  Spray for at
least a minute on each potential leak source.

You might still want the inboard genoa tracks for those times when you
roller reef your 175% genoa down to less than about 100% and are on points
of sail more upwind than a beam reach.

Good luck!

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium

----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Dobson" <robertdobson777 at yahoo.com>
To: "The Rhodes 22 mail list" <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Sent: Wednesday, June 16, 2004 11:04 PM
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] New Owner Questions ...


> Roger, Thank you for your insight. So with the larger
> head sail I really do not need the inside tracks. As
> for my leaky problem,I have throughly gone thru the
> inside of the cabin and can see no evidence of any
> leaks . As to the gutters of the seats , yes I have
> drains, but drilling them farther back, I am missing
> something, because they would still seem to drain out
> into the main cockpit in the center of the rear of the
> cockpit. I addressed the lazarette possibility but no
> success.  The area I have not been able to check is
> the hose which leads the centerboard pennant. How do I
> get at this to check It? Thanks for your help.
>
> Bob Dobson
> s/v Kee Lee--- Roger Pihlaja <cen09402 at centurytel.net>
> wrote:
> > Bob,
> >
> > Question #1:
> >
> > With any foresail bigger than about 100%, route the
> > sheets outside of the
> > shrouds on all points of sail.
> >
> > Question #2:
> >
> > Check the following:
> >
> > Do you have drains in the gutters on the seats in
> > the cockpit located in the
> > extreme front corners of the cockpit, port &
> > starboard?  If you do; then,
> > you may have found your unattended boat leak!  Plugs
> > those drain holes up
> > with epoxy & redrill the drain holes in the gutters
> > a couple of inches aft.
> >
> > Are your cockpit seat gutter drains clogged up & not
> > flowing freely?  If so,
> > they may be allowing rainwater to overflow the
> > cockpit seat gutters into the
> > lazarette compartment, which is connected to the
> > bilge.
> >
> > Do you have any fittings thru the cockpit sole which
> > may be leaking?  They
> > may need to be rebedded.
> >
> > Is the cockpit sole drain/thru hull leaking into the
> > lazarette compartment?
> >
> > Is the hose which leads the centerboard pennant from
> > the cockpit down to the
> > centerboard leaking?
> >
> > Are you certain you don't have a leak from a deck
> > fitting, hull deck joint,
> > chain plate, or port?
> >
> > Good Luck!
> >
> > Roger Pihlaja
> > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Robert Dobson" <robertdobson777 at yahoo.com>
> > To: "The Rhodes 22 mail list"
> > <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > Sent: Wednesday, June 16, 2004 6:45 PM
> > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] New Owner Questions ...
> >
> >
> > > I to have a two questions for the board...---too
> > > #1 my Rhodes22 does not have inside tracts
> > installed.
> > > I have 175 jib and Intermast main . Obviously I
> > sail
> > > with full blown jib out side the the shrouds. From
> > the
> > > discussion so far it is not a big benefit with the
> > 175
> > > to go inside. I shorten up to tach but otherwise I
> > am
> > > 100% out. Would you consider it necessary or just
> > a
> > > option , to be able to go inside with the 175 ?
> > >
> > > #2 I know that it his been way above normal in
> > rain
> > > fall in Wisconsin this year. Each time I go to the
> > > boat, I have to bail at least a full bucket or 2
> > out
> > > of the bilge. I know it is not from the bottom. It
> > is
> > > rain water and I can not see any obvious areas the
> > it
> > > is coming in the cabin area. The lazerette is now
> > got
> > > weather stripping on it but has not cured the
> > problem.
> > > Are there other drains or channels that might
> > allow
> > > for this that I am missing? It is dry in the
> > lazerette
> > > as long as the water does not accumulate too much
> > > before I get to bail. The areas do not seem to be
> > open
> > > to each other but still there is flow back and
> > forth
> > > between the lazerette and the bilge. Just
> > wondering if
> > > any one has experienced similar problems?
> > >
> > > Bob Dobson
> > > s/v Kel Lee
> > >
> > > Roger Pihlaja <cen09402 at centurytel.net> wrote:
> > > > Sheldon,
> > > >
> > > > Question #1:
> > > >
> > > > I am assuming your foresail was reefed to less
> > than
> > > > 100% in these
> > > > conditions.  However, if you are in doubt, if
> > the
> > > > clew of the foresail
> > > > extended aft of the chainplate on the upper
> > > > sidestays; then, you should
> > > > always route the sheets outside of the shrouds.
> > > >
> > > > The only time you will want to route the sheets
> > > > inboard of the shrouds is
> > > > when you are on a point of sail more upwind than
> > a
> > > > beam reach with the
> > > > foresail reefed to less than about 100%.  Please
> > > > read the jib car tuning
> > > > procedure given below.  If this procedure causes
> > the
> > > > sheet to become fouled
> > > > on a lifelife or a shroud & you don't like the
> > > > resulting sailshape; then,
> > > > you should reroute the sheets &/or switch genoa
> > > > tracks to eliminate the
> > > > fouling.
> > > >
> > > > The following article was taken from the Rhodes
> > 22
> > > > FAQ website:
> > > >
> > > > http://www.geocities.com/blew_skies/jibcars.html
> > > > JIB CAR TUNING PROCEDURE:
> > > >
> > > > The basic method for determining the position
> > for
> > > > the jib cars is to sight
> > > > up the jib sheet & continue the imaginary line
> > past
> > > > the clew all the way to
> > > > the forestay. At the proper jib car position,
> > this
> > > > imaginary line should
> > > > intersect the midpoint on the luff of the sail.
> > As
> > > > the sail is reefed, the
> > > > jib car position will move forward. Shift to the
> > > > forward track when the rear
> > > > track won't give you the proper geometry,
> > usually
> > > > with a foresail smaller
> > > > than about 100%.
> > > >
> > > > The above procedure will give you an approximate
> > jib
> > > > car position, which can
> > > > then be fine tuned thru the use of tell tales.
> > The
> > > > following procedure can
> > > > be used for fine tuning the jib on points of
> > sail
> > > > from close hauled to a
> > > > beam reach. On any point of sail more downwind
> > than
> > > > a beam reach, you should
> > > > just use the above basic procedure since the
> > mode of
> > > > operation of the sail
> > > > changes from behaving like a wing to behaving
> > more
> > > > like a parachute.
> > > >
> > > > You should have 3 tell tales about 12" back from
> > the
> > > > luff & equally spaced
> > > > down the luff of the sail. Usually, tell tales
> > are
> > > > installed with a small
> > > > window so the sail trimmer can see the tell tale
> > on
> > > > both sides of the sail
> > > > without having to duck their head under the
> > sail.
> > > > The sail is properly
> > > > trimmed when the windward & leeward tell tales
> > at
> > > > all 3 positions are
> > > > streaming backwards. The proper jib car position
> > is
> > > > determined by either the
> > > > jib trimmer pulling in slightly on the jib sheet
> > or
> > > > the helmsman pinching up
> > > > slightly into the wind while watching the
> > behavior
> > > > of the tell tales. (This
> > > > test is done slowly) If the top tell tales
> > flutter
> >
> === message truncated ===
>
>
>
>
>
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> New and Improved Yahoo! Mail - 100MB free storage!
> http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
> __________________________________________________
> Use Rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org, Help? www.rhodes22.org/list
>
>