[Rhodes22-list] winterizing- help please

[Hank]

One note on bottom paint.  If you keep your boat in the water and are
using a copper based ablative paint, generally, you have to put the
boat back in the water within 30 days or so of painting.

Hank


On Fri, 05 Nov 2004 05:06:32 -0600, Steve Alm <salm at mn.rr.com> wrote:
> Phyllis,
> 
> Adding to what MJM said, be sure to get all the water out of the bilge.  8-)
> 
> As for the spreaders, yes, it's best to leave them on the mast when
> trailering.  Covering the boat for the winter is another story.  What I do
> is remove the mast crutch and lower the mast down to the stern pulpit.  Have
> someone who is at least 5' 9" tall stand on the lazerette hatch and lift the
> mast off the crutch while a second person (no height requirements) remove
> the crutch.  Then the tall person lowers it down to their shoulder and then
> to the pulpit.
> 
> I take the spreaders off and use the mast for the ridge of the roof (tarp).
> I only have one little screw holding each spreader in its socket and they're
> pretty easy to remove.  I don't know why you had trouble with yours.  More
> info on that?  Do not disconnect the spreaders from the shrouds.  Once
> they're off the mast, you can just lay them on the cabin top along the hand
> rails.  But if you don't remove them, they'll poke through the tarp and/or
> get bent or otherwise damaged.  With the mast supported on the ends by the
> bow and stern pulpits, I have about an inch or two of clearance at the cabin
> top.  I put a cushion there to support the mast in its middle and prevent it
> from bending under the weight of the tarp, snow and the downward force of
> the tie-downs.
> 
> Do not top off the gas tanks--just the opposite.  Disconnect the fuel line
> from the motor while it's running and let the motor run out of gas.  There's
> some disagreement over the next step.  Spray fogging oil, WD-40, two-stroke
> oil or nothing to lubricate the pistons and cylinders.  I think the
> consensus is to use something rather than nothing.  The earlier posts from a
> couple weeks ago should give you the idea. Take any leftover gas in the
> tanks and pour it into your car, lawnmower, snow blower or anything else.
> It will go bad over the winter so try to use it up now.  Buy fresh gas next
> spring.
> 
> Change the oil in the lower unit by removing the drainage plug (screw) at
> the very bottom, down by the prop.  There's another plug about half way up
> the shaft.  Remove that too.  Pick up a tube of lower unit gear oil and
> after you've drained out the old oil, squirt the new oil into the lower unit
> from the bottom hole until it runs out the top hole.  Then put the top plug
> back in while still holding the tube in the bottom hole.  Then quickly
> switch the tube for the bottom plug.
> 
> Remove the batteries?  Not really necessary.  I'm in Minnesota and I never
> bother with that.  Think of all the automobiles that sit out all winter.  A
> car that's been sitting for a few months might (or might not) need a jump
> but then it's fine. The coldest temps in NJ will not damage your batteries.
> Maybe hook them up to the battery charger for a couple hours in the spring
> but then the solar panels take over as soon as you uncover it anyway.  But
> it's best to disconnect them on board in case there's some unknown draw on
> them.
> 
> If your bottom needs painting, do it whenever you have nice enough weather.
> Either now or wait until spring.  It needs to be at least 45 degrees for the
> paint to cure properly.  It won't hurt to put that job off until later, but
> wash the hull down as soon as you get it out of the water.  The longer you
> let the slime and crud dry, the harder it is to get off.  Many of us have
> posted pictures and/or instructions for lifting the boat off the trailer
> bunks for painting.  Let us know if you'd like more info on that.
> 
> Should we all just move south so we never have to do all this?  8-)
> 
> Slim
> 
> 
> 
> On 11/4/04 11:31 PM, "Michael Meltzer" <mjm at michaelmeltzer.com> wrote:
> 
> > motor:
> > 1)flush with fresh water, (trashcan or the ear muffer), extra cridet for
> > using saltaway.
> > 2)at the same time, use the spray "carbon out" cleaners
> > 3)finish the carbon cleaning,
> > 4)change the oil(make sure the motor warm), clean the oil filter
> > 5)change the lower gear lube
> > 6)burn the gas out and use foging oil at the end
> > 7)change the spake plugs and spray some foging oil in the hole
> > 8)general clean up and spray down everything with boeing sheaild 9
> > 9)good time to check the themrastat
> >
> > Boat:
> > Get all water out of the bilge, winter frezing can be trouble
> > take the battrys inside or put the on a 3 amp charger, make sure
> > everything is shut down and off the battrys
> > Get all water out of the bilge, winter frezing can be trouble
> > Cover the boat, it not sitting on it lines and water will get in.
> > Get all water out of the bilge, winter frezing can be trouble
> > take all food cushsions and flairs off the boat
> > Get all water out of the bilge, winter frezing can be trouble
> > General cleanup
> > Get all water out of the bilge, winter frezing can be trouble
> > make sure the cover can standup to the winter/winds, is tied down right
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > P&M Beals wrote:
> >
> >> Dear Rhodies,
> >>
> >> I checked out winterizing at the rhodes22.org site, which is our only
> >> reference site besides GB's site, correct?
> >>
> >> and I reviewed all the saved messages from a couple weeks back.
> >>
> >> Here are my questions:  Remember I am not a motor acquainted sailor  until
> >> two months ago...
> >>
> >> We have a Yamaha 9.9 electric start motor ( since we don't need to mix oil
> >> with the gas I believe it is a 4 stroke).  What if anything do we do for
> >> that type for winterizing?
> >>
> >> Is it necessary to top off gas tanks to prevent condensation?
> >>
> >> We will remove the batteries.
> >>
> >> Do folks remove the spreaders from the mast when putting their boat down for
> >> the winter?
> >> When I first stepped the mast with Joe Ware in August the spreaders were not
> >> on the mast, but when we prepped it for travel north Joe said leaving the
> >> spreaders in place would be ok.
> >> Will there be a problem of them bending or too much stress etc if left in
> >> place? I do recall we had one  heck of a time getting them in place.
> >>
> >> we will be covering the boat with a cover, quite securely but it will
> >> definitely be an outside storage.  also besides washing down the hull can we
> >> wait til late winter to bottom paint again or is that necessary now?
> >>
> >> Any extra drainage steps to take....we didn't use the water holding tank at
> >> all.
> >>
> >> Looks like this Sat. we have to pull  her out.  Would like to have had more
> >> sails but that's about it for up here.  When I was a kid to teen, and sailed
> >> on the Hudson up north we had a family tradition of sailing on Thanksgiving,
> >> with a small pot belly coal burning stove in the cabin...with a smoke stack
> >> vent of course. We had to chip away a thin ice sheet some times from around
> >> the bow. good memories though.
> >>
> >> Thanks
> >> Phyllis
> >> Whisper
> >> NJ
> >> __________________________________________________
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> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> > __________________________________________________
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> 
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