[Rhodes22-list] Whisker Pole Mounting

[Roger Pihlaja]

Bill,

There are two ways of attaching a whisker pole to the mast.  The best way is to use a sliding ring on a T-track on the front of the mast.  Unfortunately, this is also the most expensive and most labor intensive setup to install.  The reason the T-track & sliding ring setup is preferred is because it allows you adjust the height of the inboard end of the whisker pole to suit the requirements of the foresail being flown (i.e. 175% vs. 150% genoa vs. cruising spinnaker vs. high cut foot vs. deck sweeping foot, etc.), the sailing conditions (i.e. gusty &/or shifty vs. steady, heavy air vs. light air, etc.), and point of sail (i.e. broad reach vs. wing on wing downwind run).  The T-track and sliding ring will also serve your boat very well if you ever decide to upgrade to a tri-radial spinnaker.

The link below will show you a picture of the best T-track and sliding ring setup I've ever seen on a Rhodes 22:

http://www.rhodes22.org/rhodes/pics/spintrack.jpg 

Note how this boat actually has two sliding rings on the T-track.  This setup enables the use of two whisker poles or a whisker pole and a spinnaker pole for the ultimate in adjustability on a downwind wing on wing run. 

You would need the following pieces/parts to duplicate this setup:

Source: 2004 West Marine Master Catalog

Page #    Catalog #  # Reqd            Description

 1041        252130     1 piece     Schaefer 40-64 Racing T-Track 1" X 4' Long

 1041        132092     2 pieces   Schaefer 70-35 1" T-Track End Stop

 1073        129312     2 pieces   Schaefer 73-32 Spinnaker Pole Sliding Ring For 1" T-Track

Hardware Store        15 pieces   1/4-28 UNF X 0.75" Long, Flat Head Machine Screw, MOC: 316 SS or 18/8 SS

Note the use of fine thread 1/4-28 UNF machine screws vs. coarse thread 1/4-20 UNC machine screws to thru bolt the T-track and end stops to the mast.  The fine threads are preferred because of the relatively thin wall thickness of the aluminum mast in the region where the T-track must be mounted.  If you do not already have the appropriate tools; then, you will also need a # 3 tap drill (0.2130" OD), hand drill, center punch, 1/4-28 UNF tap, and a T-handle sized to fit the tap.  You are going to drill and tap screw threads at every possible mounting location on the T-track.  Note: Do not scrimp on the number of thru bolts as the T-track can be very heavily loaded.  If you have never drilled and tapped screw threads into relatively thin aluminum; then, you should practice with a piece of scrap 3/16" thick aluminum plate before you drill any holes in your mast.  You can definitely ruin your mast if you don't do this properly.  If you have any doubts regarding your mechanical ability; then by all means contract this job out.  

There will also be corrosion issues between the aluminum mast & T-track and the stainless steel machine screws.  If you want to be able to take the T-track off the mast; then, use a product like Loc Tite on the backside of the T-track and the screw threads during final assembly.  I decided I never intended to remove the T-track.  I further increased the strength of my setup & eliminated corrosion by applying unthickened epoxy to the backside of the T-track and the screw threads during final assembly.  Note: Do not apply epoxy to the end stops or the screw threads that attach them to the mast.  That way, you will be able to remove the end stops in order to replace &/or service the sliding cars.  The end stops are not heavily loaded and do not require reinforcement.

The other way to attach a whisker pole to the mast is to use a fixed ring.  The fixed ring should be mounted on center on the front of the mast just above the height of the lifelines.  Look in the 2004 West Marine Master Catalog on page 1073.  The Ronstan #RF602 is the appropriate size.  This fixed ring will also need to be drilled and tapped in 4 places in a manner similar to the above T-track.

Hopefully, this answers your whisker pole mounting questions.  If not; then, ask away & I will try to help you.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium