[Rhodes22-list] Florida Relief

Tue Oct 26 11:27:15 EDT 2004

Roger,

We no longer have enough either money or people to deal with things like this when they come up.   The National Guard used to do what you did last week.  There was money put aside for natural disaster relief.  

You are going to have to decide what you think is important.  Is this a job for government, or not?

When push comes to shove you can't find enough money or people to do the job privately.

I don't have a scripted answer for this.  I don't think you do, either.  

Bill

Printed copies of my book "Quote Without Comment" are now available from Amazon and all Bookstores.

Ask for "Quote Without Comment" by Bill Effros--ISBN 1-5901-9587-6 

If they are out of stock they can get more copies within 3 days.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: Roger Pihlaja 
To: The Rhodes 22 mail list 
Sent: Monday, October 25, 2004 6:09 PM
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Leak on port side bow area of the 1983 Rhodes 22

Lou,

Again, assuming your 1981 hull is built like my 1976 hull, the bow towing
eye is behind a piece of decorative teak plywood in the extreme front of the
V-berth area.  On my boat, there are a couple of flat head SS wood screws
fastening the plywood to the cabin liner.  Unscrew those two wood screws,
lift off the plywood, and you will be looking at the nuts & backing plate of
the bow towing eye.  You will need a deep socket wrench to loosen these
nuts.

Yes, the 1995 AWD Astro minivan in the picture is our primary tow vehicle.
Our Astro is rated to tow 4500 lbs, the middle of the 3 factory offered
towing packages.  It came with a transmission cooler.  It's a great tow
vehicle, perfectly adequate for towing the Rhodes 22.  I also tow my Boy
Scout troop trailer with the Astro, about 4000 lbs, tandem axle, fully
enclosed.

Thanks for the kind words regarding the mission trip to Florida.  There are
thousands of elderly folks and migrant worker families made homeless and now
living out of their cars &/or in makeshift shelters built from scrounged
debris in the areas hit by these hurricanes!  We're looking at a
humanitarian crisis of huge proportions right here in the United States and
the press is completely ignoring it!  At times, it was hard to believe we
were still in the United States.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium

----- Original Message -----
From: "Lou Rosenberg" <lsr3 at MAIL.nyu.edu>
To: "The Rhodes 22 mail list" <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Sent: Monday, October 25, 2004 11:26 AM
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Leak on port side bow area of the 1983 Rhodes
22

>   Roger,
>     Much thanks for your description of the construction of the hull
> and rub rail.  I have to re bed my trailer U bolt and have had to
> remove some of the screws holding the cabin liner.  Any words of
> advice on how to get to that U bolt ?
>
>   On the blewskies site the photo of your gold Astro with your son
> next to it.. I have the identical vehicle do you tow the boat with
> the Astro?  How does it do uphill??
>   Although I have the tow haul pkg  I plan to add the tranny cooler
> when I get my hitch early in 05.  Rick C helped me get my trailer
> from LI to Bklyn in August so I avoided a trailer expense this season.
>
>
> Some one who thought they could attach some sort of bumper to the
> front of my R22 ( 81 hull) left 4 ugly holes on the topside of the
> deck just above the rubrail.  I used polyester resin on the the holes
> and then gelcoated them now in the process of fairing and finishing.
> I need to change my rub rail next year but I dont think its leaking..
> My poptop leak was from the hatch fasteners which are now being
> rebedded.  Just gelcoated and reinforced my hatch.
>   Someone had stepped on the leading edge and cracked it. my boat was
> badly abused and neglected.
>   thanks again for that great description of the way to fix the rub rail!!
>   Lou
>
>
>
> >Steve,
> >
> >Assuming your 1983 hull is constructed like my 1976 hull, the hull/deck
> >flange design resembles something like the lid of a shoebox.  The deck
has a
> >downward flange that overlaps the upper edge of the hull.  The space in
> >between the two components was filled with some sort of sealant & then
the
> >two were mechanically joined with pop rivets on about 18 inch centers.
> >Finally, the rub rail was installed on the outside of the hull to hide
the
> >seam.  On the inside, the cabin liner also has a downward flange all
around
> >the perimeter.  This cabin liner flange is nonstructural & there should
be a
> >decorative black vinyl molding thru bolted to the flange in order to
cover
> >the hull/deck joint.  In order to inspect the hull/deck flange, this
> >decorative molding will have to be removed.  When you remove any pieces
of
> >this molding, be certain to mark the location it came from as well as
which
> >end was facing towards the bow because these pieces/parts are not
> >interchangeable.
> >
> >The shoebox type of hull/deck flange is a pretty good design & really
> >shouldn't cause a problem; but, I suppose it's possible the hull/deck
flange
> >has developed a leak.  However, before removing the rub rail, I would
remove
> >the decorative molding up in the V-berth area.  If the hull/deck joint is
> >leaking; then, the most likely source is one of the pop rivets.  With the
> >decorative molding removed, you will be able to pinpoint the leak.
Assuming
> >the leak really is a pop rivet, you will have to remove the section of
rub
> >rail and drill out the pop rivet.  Then, I would cover the inside and
> >outside of the pop rivet hole with a HD tape like duck tape.  Take a
> >hypoderdermic syringe and inject as much unthickened epoxy as you can
into
> >the pop rivet hole.  Let the epoxy cure, drill out the hole, put in a new
> >pop rivet (or machine screw & nut), and reassemble the whole thing.
> >
> >However, it's also quite likely that once you remove the decorative
molding,
> >you will see the hull/deck joint is not the source of the leak.  To
locate
> >the leak, seal yourself up inside the cabin.  Have an assistant spray
water
> >on various thru bolted fittings on the foredeck and cabin top one at a
time
> >for several minutes each while you inspect for leakage inside the cabin.
> >It's quite likely the source of the leak is something like a deck cleat,
> >cabin port, or rail stanchion.  It's also possible you have a crack in
the
> >foredeck in the nonskid or the toe rail and the water is running along
the
> >inside of the cabin liner for some distance before dripping out where you
> >observe it.
> >
> >Tiny leaks like you have can be drive you nuts trying to track them down!
> >Good luck.
> >
> >Roger Pihlaja
> >S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "steve" <stevej78 at comcast.net>
> >To: <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >Sent: Sunday, October 24, 2004 11:27 PM
> >Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Leak on port side bow area of the 1983 Rhodes 22
> >
> >
> >Roger,
> >
> >Good evening,
> >
> >I 'm a Rhodes 22 owner with a 1983 Rhodes.  I live in Bellevue, WA., in
the
> >Seattle area.
> >
> >There is a leak on the port side inside the v berth of the boat.
> >
> >It's a small leak in the in the berth that weeps from the on the port
side
> >seams where the upper deck and hull meet..
> >
> >This leak seeps down along the port seam to the wooden support rail which
is
> >fiber glassed in the bow.  The water continues along the rail to the end
of
> >the rail where now the exposed wood shows dampness.
> >
> >Would the rub rail and the black holding device for the rub rail be
removed
> >off around the nose of the boat and using a sealant calk the joint to
solve
> >the leak?
> >
> >Please advise in stopping this leak.
> >
> >Thank you for your patience in reading this long email.
> >
> >
> >Steve Jacobs
> >
> >Bellevue, WA
> >
> >Stevej78 at comcast.com
> >
> >
> >
>
>---------------------------------------------------------------------------
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> >
> >
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