[Rhodes22-list] Genoa leads and sail position

[stan]

if you sail with the top up (as you should if you are not racing and not in 
very heavy air) all of this is easily done from inside the cabin.

ss

--- Original Message ----- 
From: "Slim" <salm at mn.rr.com>
To: "Rhodes" <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Sent: Thursday, June 16, 2005 4:33 AM
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Genoa leads and sail position


> Hello Kevin and welcome.
>
> You're getting some good advice here but it should be stated clearly that
> the only time you CAN use the inner cabin-top jib leads is when you're
> reefed in to about 135% or less.  With your 175 out fully, it'll not fit
> under the spreaders and it'll not be able to flatten out and it'll bag up
> too much.  But hopefully, you've discovered this already.  8-)
>
> To answer one of your questions, ALWAYS use the leads or car--there's 
> never
> a time when you sheet directly to the winch. When you're using all 175 in
> light air, the cockpit cars should be positioned just inches in front of
> your winch.  In higher winds, in addition to being reefed, you only use 
> the
> cabin-top leads when you want to point high into the wind.  If you fall 
> off
> for a beam or broad reach or running, you want the sheets back on the
> outside of the upper shrouds going through the cockpit cars even if you're
> deeply reefed.  So, reefed in AND pointing is the only time you're using 
> the
> cabin-top leads.
>
> As a general starting point, look at the geometry:  Look at your jib sheet
> and "eyeball" an imaginary straight line from the lead or car through the
> clew of the sail and up to the forestay.  That imaginary line should meet
> the forestay at its midway point, half way from deck to masthead.  (I have
> Doyle sails and my 175 has a clew stripe on it that should be in line with
> the sheet.)  After that, you can make small adjustments as needed to allow
> more twist aloft (car aft) or loosen the foot (car forward).
>
> When changing the sheets from outer to inner leads (or vice-versa) it's
> easiest to change the windward (slack) sheet first, then come about, then
> change the other one.  Here's what I do:  Instead of going forward and
> pulling out the sheet hand over hand and thus having a coil of line in 
> your
> hands and wobbling around on the foredeck, just take and drag the bitter 
> end
> of the sheet and route it around where it needs to go and pull it through,
> hand over hand from the cockpit.  It takes less time overall and less time
> forward and more time in the safety of the cockpit.  It only takes me 
> about
> ten seconds to do it this way.  Teach your crew how to do this and they're
> be much happier with your maneuvers.
>
> Hope this helps,
>
> Slim
>
>
> On 6/15/05 7:11 PM, "sandcity at comcast.net" <sandcity at comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> I have enjoyed reading recent posts about sail trim and use of Traveller 
>> etc.
>> and appreciate the time taken to educate novices like myself. Our 89 
>> rhodes
>> was delivered in March and since that time have had a ball sailing any 
>> chance
>> we get. I am somewhat confused however about trimming the Jib/Genoa and 
>> proper
>> used of Jib leads and cars by cockpit. When sailing to wind in light airs 
>> I
>> have set a full genoa and have tried to run the sheet through both the 
>> gunnel
>> leads by the cabin or cars by the cockpit. The leech flutters and I can't 
>> seem
>> to trim effectively. Should I shorten the genoa in this case and run 
>> sheets
>> through the cabin top leads? In heavier air trimming seems much easier. 
>> What
>> is the proper use of Jib leads, cockpit cars, and cabin top leads on most
>> points of sail? With a full genoa is there ever a time that neither leads 
>> or
>> cars are used? I find myself constantly rerouting the sheets to try to 
>> obtain
>> a full sail and am driving my crew crazy. Hope this makes sens
>> e and appreciate any suggestions or input. Thanks
>>
>> Kevin Halligan
>> __________________________________________________
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>
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