[Rhodes22-list] Outer Banks Adventure --- Day 3 of 5

[William E. Wickman]

The saga continues...  Please note that there are a number of pictures at
the bottom of the page.




Day 3:  Turning Back

As the sun came over the horizon we made a hasty exit from Cape Lookout and
headed out for what would be a 10-12 hour trip up to Ocracoke via Ocracoke
Inlet.  I have been told that this is a tricky inlet, but the wind, tide
and waves were favorable so we thought we would go for it.  Worse case if
the inlet looked too difficult, we would simply turn around and night sail
back around Cape Lookout.  It was open ocean, and provided we didn’t try to
cut the Cape too close, might actually be nice to night sail.  Can you say
over ambitious?

As soon as we rounded the point and headed into the ocean I could tell that
the conditions were not quite like the previous afternoon.  Wave heights
had increased just a bit to what I would say were 3-4 feet.  But they were
long rollers and didn’t present too much problem as we headed into them on
the long way around the shoals before heading north.  There was very little
wind so we motored.

Man, it is a long way around Cape Lookout and those buoys that mark the
boundaries of the shoal area are far apart.  You cannot site from one to
the next, but must dead reckon until each one comes into view.  After we
got about ¾ of the way out to the farthest buoy, we decided to make a cut
across the point to save some time.  Visibility was good so we made the
turn and kept a sharp lookout for the infamous breakers that can occur out
here.  We did see some small ones, but they were a good distance in toward
shore (but still waay out from the beach).  We continued on this point for
well over an hour.

Note to file:  You can cut the corner of Cape Lookout in a shoal draft boat
in the right conditions, but be very careful to get way way out from the
point.

Maybe it was the overcast clouds that began rolling in from behind us;
maybe it was the uncomfortable wave action coming from the rear quarter
that rocked the boat in two directions in a sort of wallowing motion; maybe
it was the green look that Sailing Buddy started to get.  I started getting
an uneasy feeling about this leg of the trip; a feeling of bad karma.
Further, I didn’t like the trend of the latest weather forecasts.  While
today was fine, the forecast now called for winds to build the following
day, Saturday.  The offshore forecast called for 20-25kts with gusts over
30; wave heights 6-8 feet building to 12 feet.  Definitely not something I
wanted to be caught in if it came early and I was attempting to return to
Cape Lookout after being turned back at Ocracoke Inlet.  Moreover, the
forecast for Pamlico Sound called for 3-5 foot waves Saturday with winds
out of the south at up to 20 kts.  It looked like we might be stuck in
Ocracoke Saturday waiting for weather to abate.  Our weather window had
closed on us.  I made the decision to turn around and head back to Beaufort
after making it about 25% of the way to Ocracoke Inlet.  Sailing Buddy
didn’t argue.  He had just lifted his head from over the side of the
gunnels after having thrown up for the third time.  Sailing Buddy said he
was just hung over.  I think it was a clear case of seasickness.

This was a disappointing moment for me because it took us out of our grand
plan to see all three ports.  Sailing Buddy didn’t care.  In fact, I put
Sailing Buddy at the helm with his GPS in hand pointed directly to Beaufort
Inlet [see picture below].  I knew he would get us back to port quicker
than anyone else on the seven seas at this particular moment.

I must admit that the change in direction made for a much more comfortable
ride.  I shuddered at the thought of having to put up with the wave action
that we had before turning around for another 8-10 hours.  I gained a new
respect for those blue water transatlantic sailors that stay on the same
course for days on end.

My decision was rewarded shortly after turning around when we found
ourselves completely surrounded by the largest pod of dolphins I had ever
seen.  There must have been 30-40 of these magnificent creatures [see
picture below].  We had been motoring to this point, but I immediately shut
down our engine and raised sail.  Although we didn’t move very fast under
the light winds, I thought that the dolphins would be more likely to
approach us while under sail.  A few curious ones ventured close enough for
a peek at us, and for me to snap a few pictures.

The sky began clearing again as we pulled into Beaufort Inlet around 1PM,
and by the time we reached the harbor and anchored, the sun was shining and
wind was blowing a gentle 8-10kts.  Short memory that I have, I began to
wonder aloud if we had made a mistake by turning back.  Sailing Buddy
quickly dispelled any misgivings.  [Some good pictures of Beaufort harbor
below]

The anchorage at Beaufort is very nice.  I carried a small light inflatable
that is powered by two sets of oars.  We found this more than adequate to
get to the dinghy dock and back.  The key is to anchor just across the
channel from the dinghy dock or as close as possible.  Of course, location
is less of an issue if you have a motor.  Beaufort is very boater friendly
and provides a very nice dinghy dock on each end of the municipal marina.
Dockage at the marina costs $1.75/ft, so anchoring out saved us around $40.
Besides, the anchorage is much more quiet and private.  It also provided us
with a special treat.

Looking out from under the pop top at Carrot Island, the uninhabited island
just across the channel from Beaufort, what to our amazed eyes did appear,
but a beautiful young pony quietly grazing just a few yards away.  Carrot
Island, as well as nearby Shackleford Banks, is home to a number of wild
horses.

Anchoring in Beaufort is unique in that if you want to feel like you are in
a harbor, turn and face toward the town.  If you want to feel like you are
way out in the wilds, turn and face toward Carrot Island.

After a short rest, we jumped in our dinghy and rowed to shore for a look
around town.  Beaufort is a quaint town that is just large enough to
provide interesting shopping and restaurants, and just small enough to
remain quaint.  The highlight was a trip to the maritime museum which was
free!  Free is good.

After doing the tourist thing, we ate dinner on the porch of a restaurant
while overlooking the harbor in which I could see my Rhodes gently swinging
on its anchor.  After dinner, we rowed the dinghy around the harbor a bit
to look at the different boats.  As we approached one that looked
particularly salty, the wind and current pulled us a bit to fast and we
bumped the boat before we could correct our course.  Wouldn’t you know that
there was someone inside that came scrambling up to see what had happened.
I can only imagine what flashed through his mind when he heard the bump.
Of course there was no damage as we were in a rubber boat, but if looks
could kill.  I suggested to Sailing Buddy that we take a circuitous route
back to our boat to conceal our location.  There’s no telling, he might
have been a pirate.

Note to file:  Sailors don’t like you bumping into their boats at anchor;
even if you are in a rubber raft.

As I drifted off to sleep, I was happy that we opted to anchor instead of
pay for a slip.  It was quiet and peacful and much more private.  Now, if
we could just get through the night without someone bumping into our
boat...


This is a picture of Sailing Buddy heading back to Beaufot:
(See attached file: backtoBeaufort.jpg)


A picture of dolphins off Cape Lookout:
(See attached file: dolphinoffcape.jpg)



The entrance to Beaufort Harbor:

(See attached file: Beaufortharbor.jpg)


Beaufort Harbor looking east and west:
(See attached file: Beaufortharboreast.jpg)
(See attached file: Beaufortharborwest.jpg)


Wild horse:
(See attached file: wildhorse.jpg)


The Rhodes at anchor:
(See attached file: Rhodesanchor1.jpg)
(See attached file: Rhodesanchor2.jpg)



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