[Rhodes22-list] Boom Room Update

TN Rhodey tnrhodey at hotmail.com
Fri Feb 3 07:53:52 EST 2006


Bill,

I was getting ready to make a cheap awning that would improve on the boom 
tent I use now. I use tent poles laid across boom and nylon tarp  providing 
a covered wagon look. The problem with what I have now is the tarp is not 
big enough and curves down to sharply. It does not totally enclose the 
cockpit but does provide sun and rain protection when over nighting or 
motoring. I was going to order larger material and fit to size. I liked the 
dacron idea vs. canvas or sunbrella. I am also considering different 
materials; more like what is used in modern dome tents.

PVC is OK but I would look at telescopic poles or tent design. Go for some 
of the poles with shock cord holding them together. When secured dome tents 
can hold up to very strong winds. They are very light weight and easy to 
store.

I would be interested in the awning piece and perhaps side panels depending 
on design.

Wally


>From: Bill Effros <bill at effros.com>
>Reply-To: The Rhodes 22 mail list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>To: The Rhodes 22 mail list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Boom Room Update
>Date: Thu, 02 Feb 2006 22:16:55 -0500
>
>Dave,
>
>How exciting!  Nice job.  Couldn't have hoped for better!
>
>Slim,
>
>The pictures posted were fine for us all to get a look at your rig.  It is 
>very different from the boom room posted on the GB site, and I think most 
>of us couldn't understand what was wrong with it as far as Stan was 
>concerned.  It looked good to us, and several people took the time to say 
>so.  Clearly you get a lot of use out of it, and you are in a position to 
>give us lots of pointers.  Yours is the prototype, and we will listen more 
>closely than usual to what you have to say on this matter.
>
>As soon as I have time, I will post pictures I have gathered showing 
>dodger/awning combinations developed by marine canvas fabricators.  This is 
>the approach Stan seems to have rejected, and that's good enough for me.  
>These designs seem to run in the $5000+ range.  I am posting them only for 
>reference.
>
>As I understand Dave's report, Stan has developed a fairly simple set of 
>interchangeable panels that will work on any R-22, and maybe many other 
>boats as well.  He has advised us to stay away from the costly marine 
>fabricators and develop local talent to produce a standard product.
>
>Stan feels the load bearing frame can be improved, without the need to 
>change the fabric panels--so we can develop patterns without regard to the 
>final frame design--the frame must fit the panels, and not the other way 
>around.  One size panels fits all size boats.  No prior purchase necessary.
>
>OK -- so who is still in?  I'm in for every panel we make.  I know Dave is 
>in.  Slim has a PVC frame we can use as a frame pattern and prototype.  
>What material shall we use for the first frame we make?  Is wood an option 
>for a prototype?  (We have people on the list who are very good with wood.) 
>  Stainless Steel?  Aluminum?  Can we use telescoping boat poles with 
>custom fittings on the ends to link them together?
>
>How much do we think this will cost?  We have to leave enough money to pay 
>for replacement frames for early failed prototypes.  Can the panels be made 
>of better or lesser materials depending on the intended use?
>
>First we have to sort out who is still in.  The project will move forward 
>even if the answer is "nobody but Bill".  Early adopters will buy at cost, 
>and their needs will be more heavily factored into the final design of the 
>project.
>
>Thanks to all who have helped get us to this point.  Your input, thoughts, 
>grumblings will improve the final design--please keep them coming.
>
>I'm going off to look at Slim's pictures again.  The ones I have show a lot 
>of detail (I work on a 20" screen, and there is a lot of detail in what I 
>have downloaded.)  If I need to see more, I will surely ask.  Luckily, Stan 
>has already seen what Slim has, and that's probably the most important 
>thing.
>
>Back to work.  I'm still running behind.
>
>Bill Effros
>
>
>
>David Bradley wrote:
>
>>I had the great pleasure of visiting Stan and Rose yesterday at GBI
>>world headquarters in Edenton.  In between looking at my beautiful new
>>R22 in mid-production and a nice dinner (at Waterman's), we talked at
>>length about the boom room project.
>>
>>At the risk of not relaying it completely accurately, here is Stan's
>>thinking on a "best" boom room design.  (Stan, please correct me as
>>needed.)
>>
>>Boom Room Design Parameters:
>>
>>1.  Primary use is for overnight camping, and design should maximize
>>benefits for this primary usage.
>>
>>2.  Not integrated with Pop Top Enclosure - removes complexity factor
>>and improves economics/ease of set-up.
>>
>>3.  Fabric is sail cloth, with roof panel treated for water resistance.
>>
>>4.  Roof panel rests on top of boom as main support beam.
>>
>>5.  Must have rigid frame at roof panel perimeter; other roof support
>>members TBD.
>>        a.  Evaluate frame materials for lightweight rigid frame that
>>is easy to store
>>        b.  Consider aluminum tubes with crimp/socket connections, and
>>shock cords
>>        c.  Explore design for "yokes" to fit over boom as supporting 
>>"rafters"
>>             (see drawings if I can figure out how to attach)
>>
>>6.  Multiple side/front/rear panels with optional screen and clear
>>plastic sections.
>>
>>7.  Side/rear panels zip in place and snap to gunwale; taught snapped
>>panels provide lateral roof support; no need to attach to stays.
>>        a.  Lower boom slightly to assemble, then raise boom to tension 
>>panels
>>        b.  If using roof panel only as shade tent, run cords/straps
>>from perimeter
>>             frame to gunwales for lateral support
>>
>>8.  Front panel snaps across cabin trunk top, leaving hatches outside boom 
>>room
>>
>>9.  Forward edge is in front of mast and inside forward side shrouds;
>>aft side shrouds are disconnected for boom room set-up; topping lift
>>line runs next to mast; roof panel seals around mast.
>>
>>10.  Rear panel fastens inside rear stays and stern rail and snaps to
>>gunwale, with enough tension to ensure rain will slide down the angeld
>>surface; evaluate whether a "shoulder" can be created by adding ties
>>to stern rail (similar to how an umbrella tent has outside ties to the
>>exterior frame).
>>
>>Net, the design that Slim has (which Stan made for the original owner)
>>is pretty close to what Stan thinks is optimal.  The idea of multiple
>>panel options (solid, screen and clear) gives it the Rhodes
>>flexibility and quality, while keeping sizes down.  Where he has never
>>been happy is with frame designs.  He leans toward aluminum or
>>stainless with the "crimp and socket" (somebody tell me if there's a
>>techincal term) type fitting and shock cords used in tents.  The
>>individual pieces need to be short enough to fit under cockpit seats
>>or in lazarette.
>>
>>Stan is more than happy to have some help in project managing this,
>>which Bill and I are doing for now.  Stan will advise as we go.  He
>>thinks we should work with small fabricators to get a prototype built
>>vs. working with someone "in the sailboat business."
>>
>>
>>Next Steps:
>>
>>1.  Finalize design specs and obtain firm committments.
>>
>>2.  Create prototype, beginning with frame fabricator.
>>
>>
>>Please reply with comments and suggestions.
>>
>>Best regards,
>>
>>Dave Bradley
>>
>>P.S.  I tried attaching a jpeg file with drawings.  First is of an
>>idea Stan has for a yoke that would also serve as a support rafter for
>>roof panel.  Second is a not-to-scale sketch of the numbers and types
>>of interchangeable panels.
>>
>>
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>>Url: 
>>http://www.rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attch/200602/02/Slide1.jpg
>>
>>
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>>
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