[Rhodes22-list] Rory's quandray and his unique rudder

[L. Sailor]

Toot:

I'm glad that my anticipated acrobatics are providing
food for thought!

elle

--- Tootle <ekroposki at charter.net> wrote:

> 
> 
> Rory,
> 
> 	Yes send pictures because I cannot figure out your
> problem.  Loosen the
> cleat on the front of the rudder and the bottom
> drops down.  Adjust to
> proper position and tighten cleat on back of back of
> rudder.  Some call the
> cleat on back a clutch and every year the design
> changes.  
> 
> 	When you want to raise rudder, loosen line on back
> and pull up with front
> line.  When the line on back is loosened it should
> be loose and not able to
> bind.  It kind of dangles.  I usually raise the
> bottom of the rudder when
> the boat is in the slip.  Otherwise the local stuff
> grows on it.  Sort of
> like water Kudzu.
> 
>                  It will be interesting to see a
> video of ‘Elle’ doing this
> maneuver.  Stan will have to install a motorized
> winch on the rail for her.
> 
> Ed K
> Greenville, SC, USA
> Addendum:
> I thought it was a flat, when I looked at the
> tire...
> I noticed your cat.
> 
> Sorry!
> 
> 	
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rory Orkin wrote:
> > 
> > I will send a picture if it ever stops raining
> here..
> > But if there is no turning bar, what stops the
> blade downhaul from
> > becoming jammed between rudder and the rudder head
> ? 
> > This jamming is what got me looking at this in the
> first place 
> > 
> > 
> > stanleyl wrote:
> >> 
> >> our crew missed the point.
> >> 
> >> when we heard some owners had their rudder blade
> downhaul line catch
> >> occasionally we asked our trained crew to put on
> a turning bar.
> >> 
> >> the rudder blade is intended to be used fully
> down and as far forward as
> >> it can go.  this takes it under the hull so that
> it has the effect of a
> >> spade blade and offers zero helm.
> >> 
> >> not understanding this, some turning bars where
> mounted too far aft so
> >> that the blade, which is normally stopped by
> coming in contact with the
> >> spacer in the rudder head, would instead be
> stopped by hitting the
> >> turning bar.  after some amount of use this
> loosened the two turning bar
> >> screws and may have even resulted in more tiller
> helm than wanted.
> >> 
> >> try your rudder without replacing this turning
> bar and if things work
> >> fine, forget about putting the turning bar back. 
> if you do want to put
> >> it back, locate it so that the blade gets stopped
> by contact with the
> >> rudder cheeks spacer instead of by this turning
> bar.  
> >> 
> >> if neither works take the usual two aspirins and
> call me in the morning.
> >> 
> >> stan/gbi
> >>
> __________________________________________________
> >> Use Rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org, Help?
> www.rhodes22.org/list
> >> 
> >> 
> > 
> > 
> 
> -- 
> View this message in context:
>
http://www.nabble.com/Rory-and-other-new-boat-owners-re-rudder-tf2622764.html#a7391437
> Sent from the Rhodes22 mailing list archive at
> Nabble.com.
> 
> __________________________________________________
> Use Rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org, Help?
> www.rhodes22.org/list
> 



 
____________________________________________________________________________________
Sponsored Link

$420k for $1,399/mo. 
Think You Pay Too Much For Your Mortgage? 
Find Out! www.LowerMyBills.com/lre