[Rhodes22-list] Retracting IMF

Mary Lou Troy mtroy at atlanticbb.net
Tue Feb 20 08:15:36 EST 2007


Slim,
A couple of years ago we bought Stan's retrofit kit for the through 
the boom/camcleat fittings for the outhaul. We like it a lot even 
though we still don't know if we installed it backwards. Plusses & 
minuses either way I think. In any event it makes adjusting the 
outhaul much quicker. You can just barely see it in this pic - you 
might need to squint. The outhaul goes through the boom (plastic 
fitting to protect the line) and cleats under the boom.

Mary Lou

At 01:50 AM 2/20/2007, you wrote:
>Thanks, Bill, I'll put all this into practice and try to improve my
>technique.  Also, I'd like to modify my boom and install cam cleats instead
>of horn cleats (like Rummy has) which makes everything faster.
>
>Slim
>
>On 2/19/07 5:39 PM, "Bill Effros" <bill at effros.com> wrote:
>
> > Slim,
> >
> > OK, now we're on the same page.
> >
> > Like you, the only time it's harder than easy for me is when the wind
> > has picked up relative to the amount of main sail I have out, forcing me
> > to let out the main to a point where the aft boom cleat can't be reached
> > while standing on floor of the cockpit.
> >
> > Part of your solution has been to cleat the lines on the mid boom cleat,
> > however that forces you to leave the tiller.  I tried that approach, but
> > have subsequently moved the lines back to the aft boom cleat.  I found
> > it was dangerous to wrestle with the boom when it had too much sail on
> > it, I wasn't holding onto the tiller, and I was leaning toward the
> > leeward side of the boat.
> >
> > If the lines are cleated aft, you are forced to bring the sail in over
> > the cockpit (which, just incidentally, makes the sail furl on the tube
> > more easily and more cleanly.)  The only ways you can bring the sail
> > over the cockpit, if it is not already there, is by sailing higher into
> > the wind, while coming about, or in a hove-to situation.  In that order.
> >
> > If the boom is over the water and you want to reduce the main sail,
> > first retract the genny so that it is around 100%.  No problem
> > there--I'm sure you know how to do that without snarling the
> > furler--(hint to newbies--keep tension on both lines.)  The main sail is
> > 1/2 the size of the 175 genny, so this will significantly depower the
> > boat, and may allow you to bring in the main over the cockpit depending
> > on how far your mainsail must be adjusted.  If so, release the lines
> > from the aft cleat and adjust at reduced speed on the same course.
> >
> > If you still can't pull in your main, steer higher into the wind until
> > you can, and then fall off again after making the adjustment in
> > relatively calm air.  If you steer too high, and wish to come about, you
> > can catch the boom and make your adjustment while the boom remains on
> > the favored side, usually Starboard, before releasing the genny sheet
> > and completing the tack.   If you can't do this fast enough, or don't
> > want to come about, don't release the genny sheet, which will
> > automatically leave you hove-to.  Using the tiller you can get the boom
> > anywhere you want it in calm air over the cockpit.  You will have as
> > much time as you need to adjust the sail, tiller between legs, standing
> > in the center of the cockpit, aft, approximately over the table socket.
> >
> > You can sail out of being hove-to on either a port or starboard tack.
> > Steer in the direction you wish to go.  Then release the genny, or not,
> > depending on which tack you want to be on.
> >
> > Bill Effros
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Slim wrote:
> >> Just Plain Bill, et al,
> >>
> >> Right--lengthening the sail is never a problem and I, too try to 
> put up less
> >> sail than I need at first and add more later if I want.  But sometimes I
> >> over estimate how much to use and other times the wind picks up after I'm
> >> out there, so shortening the main in the heat of battle is 
> something I want
> >> to get better at.  It's especially tricky if I'm 
> single-handing.  And, like
> >> you have said, even with others onboard I'm still single-handing, although
> >> someone to take the helm and hold our course is a big help and 
> not too hard
> >> even for a novice.  I can always heave to in order to do anything but I'd
> >> like to get better at reefing quickly while still under 
> way.  Thanks for the
> >> tip on moving the boom car before I haul in the reefing line.  I think
> >> that'll help.
> >>
> >> Slim
> >>
> >> On 2/18/07 10:46 AM, "Bill Effros" <bill at effros.com> wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>> Slim,
> >>>
> >>> I've read some of the replies.
> >>>
> >>> First, let's note you are only speaking of shortening the sail.  There
> >>> is no problem lengthening it.  Just prior to tacking, you simply release
> >>> the line that prevents more sail from going out, to add the amount of
> >>> sail you wish to add.  This will cause a huge belly in the sail.  Using
> >>> the main sheet, cleat the sail so that it is above the cockpit on the
> >>> starboard side of the boat (on most boats depending on the rotation of
> >>> the IMF inside the mast).  Pause in your tack long enough to secure the
> >>> longer sail in it's new position on the boom, adjusting for the level of
> >>> sail tightness.  Finish your tack, or not, depending on where you want
> >>> to go.
> >>>
> >>> When shortening the sail you must release the line that holds the sail
> >>> out, first.  Move the car on the boom to where you want the sail to be
> >>> attached to the boom.  Again, this will cause the sail to belly out.
> >>> Then pull the sail retrieval line to get the proper sail shape.
> >>> Continue the tack, or not.
> >>>
> >>> If it's really blowing you may have to heave to in order to keep the
> >>> sail under control.
> >>>
> >>> I always start with less sail than I think I will need and then lengthen
> >>> it.  I always heave to when retracting sail fully at the end of the day
> >>> because if you learn to heave to, well, you can make the boat point into
> >>> the wind at any direction that makes retracting the sail work best on
> >>> your boat with your sails.  Experience.
> >>>
> >>> Bill Effros
> >>>
> >>> Slim wrote:
> >>>
> >>>> My, my, my... Aren't we a chatty bunch today?  Ninety-some emails!
> >>>>
> >>>> Art brought up an important point about operating the IMF on a 
> port tack.
> >>>> I
> >>>> do this too but only slightly off the wind for best results.  I let the
> >>>> main
> >>>> sheet go so the sail is luffing and then it's a cinch to roll it up.
> >>>>
> >>>> Here's where I could use some help:  If the wind picks up and 
> I decide to
> >>>> shorten sail, I usually discover that I'm overpowered when on a close
> >>>> reach.
> >>>> That's when you get heeled over too much.  That's when the 
> wind has picked
> >>>> up and there's a lot of force on the sail.  I've found it to be quite
> >>>> difficult to reef in the mail on this point of sail even if it is a port
> >>>> tack and absolutely impossible on a starboard tack.
> >>>>
> >>>> So what maneuvers or what point of sail would be best to make 
> this easier?
> >>>> Must I luff up?  I don't like doing that because it's so chaotic and
> >>>> sometimes I get blown over to the other tack anyway and the problem gets
> >>>> worse.  But if there's any wind in the sail at all then it's 
> much harder to
> >>>> flatten out the sail because the lines are so stressed.  At least I've
> >>>> finally learned to cleat off my control lines on the cleats 
> nearer the mast
> >>>> and not the ones at the end of the boom where I can't always 
> reach them.  I
> >>>> think I've answered my own question.  You gotta luff up.  But has anyone
> >>>> discovered a better procedure?
> >>>>
> >>>> Reefing in the jib under these conditions is easier.  I 
> usually wait until
> >>>> I
> >>>> tack and then keep the jib sheet on the now-windward side sort of like a
> >>>> heave to, backwinding the main.  Then I can ease the sheet out 
> and take the
> >>>> reefing line while the jib is still full of air.
> >>>>
> >>>> __________________________________________________
> >>>> Use Rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org, Help? www.rhodes22.org/list
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>> __________________________________________________
> >>> Use Rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org, Help? www.rhodes22.org/list
> >>>
> >>
> >> __________________________________________________
> >> Use Rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org, Help? www.rhodes22.org/list
> >>
> >>
> > __________________________________________________
> > Use Rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org, Help? www.rhodes22.org/list
>
>__________________________________________________
>Use Rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org, Help? www.rhodes22.org/list
>
>
>--
>No virus found in this incoming message.
>Checked by AVG Free Edition.
>Version: 7.5.441 / Virus Database: 268.17.39/687 - Release Date: 
>2/14/2007 4:17 PM
-------------- next part --------------
Name: fender.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 113895 bytes Desc: not available
Url: http://www.rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attch/200702/20/fender.jpg


More information about the Rhodes22-list mailing list