[Rhodes22-list] Who was Ford Expert?

Michael D. Weisner mweisner at ebsmed.com
Fri Jan 5 12:26:14 EST 2007


Ed,

That's not MY website but rather part of the Auto Parts Giant website, but I
do see the picture.  Yes this is a common switch arrangement on vehicles
with cruise control.  Without troubleshooting further, I do not see why you
would be interested in the steering wheel mounted switches (or the trouble
associated with replacement in an airbag equipped steering wheel.)  See if
you can locate the "Speed Control Servo/Amplifier" unit so that you can
measure the voltages to determine where the problem lies.  I would not
assume that the problem is the switch (or the clock spring) until I had
additional evidence.  It might just as easily be related to the horn or
wiring.  In fact, I have always been trained to suspect items exposed to the
weather such as the horn components, before those in the shelter of the
passenger compartment.

The first order of business is to locate everything, then begin systematic
checking.

Mike
s/v Shanghai'd Summer ('81)

From: "Tootle" <ekroposki at charter.net> Thursday, January 04, 2007 7:46 PM
Mike:

Your web site has a picture of the control swith on the steering wheel:

http://images.wrenchead.com/smartpages/partinfo_resize/MOT/SW6010.jpg

Thanks,
Ed K
Greenville, SC, USA




R22MikeW wrote:
>
> Ed,
>
> You need to establish a few diagnostic points if you wish to investigate
> the
> problem yourself.  First, have you located the Speed Control
> Servo/Amplifier
> control unit?  Once you know where it is, figure out the connector pin
> numbering so that you may measure several key voltages at the unit.  These
> need to be measured while moving to test the cruise so this is not for
> everyone.
>
> The first item that I would look at would be the BOO Switch by checking
> the
> voltage at pin 4 with respect to a good ground.  If the BOO Sw is
> defective,
> it might cause the unit to drop out or fail to engage.  Check the voltage
> when operating and when it fails, to compare.
>
> If the problem does not seem related to the BOO Sw then I would look at
> the
> voltage at pins 5 & 8 to determine if the problem is related to the
> control
> inputs or a bad ground.  Does your horn function properly?  The system
> appears to pickup its control inputs by sharing the horn signal leads.
> Note
> that the system develops a control function by placing various resistors
> in
> series with the horn and measuring the resulting voltage drop at the Speed
> Control Switch Input.  You should be able to check the Cruise ON/OFF,
> Resume, Set & Coast switches at the curb by measuring the voltage at pin 5
> while cycling the switches.  In addition, check the horn wiring for a
> loose
> connection since it looks like the power is being "returned" through the
> horn lead.  Maybe the horn or the wiring to it is intermittent.
>
> Of course, Rummy may be correct in sending you to the Ford dealer since
> the
> control unit could also be bad and you would have no way to know.  Guess
> what - neither does the dealer - they just charge you and replace it and
> see
> if that works!  If you need parts, you may wish to check out
> www.autopartsgiant.com, although they do not have a 1999 F-150 van listed.
> Could it be an E-150 van?  The 1999 E-150 Econoline van has many cruise
> control switches but not the control unit.  That seems to be a dealer (or
> junk yard) part.
>
> The real question is "How much do you feel like getting involved?" vs.
> "How
> much are you willing the donate to your favorite Ford mechanic?"
>
>
> Mike
> s/v Shanghai'd Summer ('81)
>
>
> From: "Tootle" <ekroposki at charter.net> Wednesday, January 03, 2007 1:14 PM
>
> Brad:
>                I will describe the problem below.  First, Dan Bodnar is no
> longer on the list.  I wonder if the boat that Tom bought was Dan’s?
> Maybe
> he ran into a downsizing at Ford and quietly departed.  He was on the list
> as of last May.
>
> The problem is as follows:  When I first use the van to go somewhere, say
> the boat, it works fine.  After I shut if off and do something then go
> somewhere else it will not engage, or at least not for quite a while.
> After
> about an hour driving sometimes I can get it to engage for no apparent
> reason other than time.
>
> A search of the internet and Chilton’s manuals yields the following
> information:
> First, this is the same cruise (speed) control that Ford was involved in
> litigation and recalls over the cruise not disengaging and causing fires.
> I
> have no history on this van if it was modified under any recalls, but that
> is not the issue.
>
> This control shuts off when brakes are applied or the motor shuts off.
> However, I have not verified disengagement by checking voltage across
> switch.
>
> On the internet there are a couple of references to the same problem as I
> describe to other 1999 F-150 Ford Vans.  They suggest three areas of
> problems.  First, they suggest the switching device in the steering wheel.
> Apparently a spring can become sloppy with age and the control lever can
> wear with age.  Now I believe that I know enough about switches to clean
> and
> adjust a spring if I knew how to get at it.
>
> Second, they refer to the actual cruise control device as defective and
> third, they refer to brake on/off switch.
>
> Attached is a signal schematic that I got from Chilton’s.
>
> Ed K
> Greenville, SC, USA
>
>
>
> Brad Haslett-2 wrote:
>>
>> Ed,
>>
>> What are the symptoms or the problem?  They all work pretty much the
>> same.
>> My A & P mechanics license has a lot of rust on it but I'm slowly getting
>> up
>> to speed with the new airplane.  Give me a description of the behavior
>> and
>> I'll take a stab at it!
>>
>> Brad
>>
>>
>> On 1/2/07, Tootle <ekroposki at charter.net> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>       Several years ago we had an expert with Ford vehicles on this
>>> list.
>>> Are you still there?
>>>
>>>       An expert in truck cruise controls will suffice.  Are there any of
>>> those?
>>>
>>> Ed K
>>> Greenville, SC, USA
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> http://www.nabble.com/file/5272/Schematic%201999.jpg Schematic 1999.jpg
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