[Rhodes22-list] Penetrol

Wed Dec 17 07:33:58 EST 2008

Rummy,

Here's another idea I've seen tossed around with the penetrol solution
- put a coat of Future floor wax on as the final treatment.  Sounds
goofy to me but that is EXACTLY what I used to do to the de-ice boots
on the Citation jet to keep them glossy.  Ask your friend if he's ever
seen it used on a boat.

Brad

On Wed, Dec 17, 2008 at 6:27 AM,  <R22RumRunner at aol.com> wrote:
> Brad,
> The only part of this I would disagree on is his using wax on the final
> coat. I've never seen nor heard of this being done. Any boats I've seen with the
> penetrol have used it as the finish coat.
>
> Rummy
>
>
> In a message dated 12/16/2008 9:34:27 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> flybrad at gmail.com writes:
>
> Found  this with a net search.  Scotchbrite pads are wonderful, that's
> what I  use on bare aluminum on da plane.  Brad
>
> ----------------
>
> I  wrote this article a while back - not specifically for Whalers but I
> am  sure parts will apply. As it gets older fiberglass dries out - wax
> can only  penetrate so deep, then you need to break out the secret
> weapon. Here is  the article...
>
> After a lot of research I found out you can save old  faded fiberglass
> hulls. I've learned that even the most faded rough feeling  ugly sun
> burned hull can nearly always be saved - as long as the colors are  in
> the glass and not painted. The same restoration stuff (almost) that  is
> sold by dealers for a hundred bucks can be formulated at home  for
> under $20 (including scrub pads etc).
> The Secret "They" Don't want  you to know: A paint additive Penetrol
> (about $8.00 a pint) is designed to  soak into surfaces and "reliquify"
> old dried out subsurfaces to make new  paint soak in and adhere better.
> It's also nearly the same "rust magic"  stuff we used to pay a fortune
> for a while back! It soaks right in starved  fiberglass - taking years
> off right before your eyes.
> First you have to  scrub the hull - really scrub not just wash. You
> want all the old wax,  mildew, stains, paint rubs, etc, etc, off. Those
> cheap green pot scrubbing  pads (Scotchbrite)in the kitchenware
> department will do the trick. I also  used some of that automotive
> purple stuff cleaner (really strong) that runs  about $5.00 a gallon in
> auto stores (Walmart?) to get the mildew and years  of grunge off the
> hull. Then scrub again to be sure (you don't want to seal  in stains!)
> with plain ole Borax moistened with white vinegar paying  close
> attention to rub rails, marks, and stains. White surfaces can then  be
> brightened and cleaned with plain old bleach and water (3 or  4
> tablespoons to a quart of water, wear gloves, don't wear  good
> clothes). Old numbers and stickers you don't want can be removed  with
> a heat gun on low or a hair dryer on high, remove remaining  adhesive
> with WD-40!
> Once she is clean, real clean, eating off clean,  then apply the
> Penetrol to a cloth and wipe it on. Let the the first coat  soak in
> like you would Armour-All on tires (don't wipe it off. She might  take
> two or three passes to finally fully saturate dry fiberglass if she  is
> an oldie, be patient you are fixing years of abuse.
> Once that is done  you have to scrub again. You don't want the Penetrol
> on the outside to  remain as a dirt magnet, you are only interested in
> keeping the Penetrol  that has actually soaked into the fiberglass!
> Once the excess Penetrol has  been removed, it's time to put on a
> couple of coats of high quality marine  wax - a buffer will really save
> your back and shoulders for  fishing.
> Now, if you were doing a high dollar bassboat or other expensive  boat
> with exposed metal flake on the top surfaces you would sand it  smooth
> with super fine grit (400-1000)sand paper then rub it out with  waxless
> rubbing compound and apply the Penetrol like above. Once she is  clean
> again finish up topside with an Emron clear coat (sprayed on)  and
> after it is fully cured, wax.
> I cringe at the fine boats I have not  bought for peanuts because I did
> not know this. Even with Emron you are  looking at less than $250 to
> bring back a worthy boat. So there you have  it, the secret is out!
>
> On Tue, Dec 16, 2008 at 7:41 PM,   <R22RumRunner at aol.com> wrote:
>> Brad,
>> Penetrol works  great. Surfaces need to be clean, wax free and dry and  the
>> gel  coat will look like new. I've only seen it used on the sides, never
> the   top
>> decks.
>>
>> Rummy
>>
>>
>> In a message  dated 12/16/2008 7:46:42 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
>> flybrad at gmail.com  writes:
>>
>> I know,  I know, this has probably been discussed  in the archives but I
>> want some  fresh thoughts.  A fellow  approached me at the dock Saturday
>> and was  explaining to his  buddy how my boat had more interior room
>> than any other  30  footer, yada, yada, yada.  He and I got in to a
>> discussion of  the  builder, Leon Slicker, and his reputation for gel
>> coat  quality.  I  apologized for the condition of mine (dirty,  needing
>> polished, etc) and he  suggested penetrol.  I've  done some research on
>> the net and found some  mixed  responses.  What say  you?
>>
>> Brad
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