[Rhodes22-list] Pictures and details

Sun Oct 24 14:31:58 EDT 2010

Ouch! I wish I had thought of that before putting in those fifty bolts.  You
are exactly right, of course.  The next time I have it apart I will
definitely de-articulate the blocks with some epoxy putty.

Thanks for pointing that little problem out!

Geankoplis wrote:
> 
> Hi Bill,
> 	Nicely done.  Well engineered, well thought out and great detailed
> information on materials.  There is one concern.  Having owned a couple of
> Rhodes for  pretty much the last 34 years there is a potential problem
> that
> I ran into. This involved an articulated rather than a fixed block.  On
> the
> off chance you run aground the articulated block without the tension of
> the
> pennant will flop sideways and will probably jamb in the centerboard trunk
> or without the plates simply  break off a bit of the trailing fiberglass
> edge of the centerboard. It happened to me twice before I figured it out.
> Next time you go into the centerboard you may consider fixing the blocks
> so
> they can't move left or right, er, port and starboard matey.  Hope this
> helps.
> Chris Geankoplis
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
> [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of BillyDoc
> Sent: Sunday, October 24, 2010 8:53 AM
> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Pictures and details
> 
> 
> I got the centerboard back in the boat yesterday, but still have the
> furniture to install today.  I just wanted to get this post up ASAP with
> some pictures, in case they may help someone.
> 
> When I pulled the centerboard I discovered that the blocks on the trailing
> edge had pulled out at some previous time and been re-installed roughly an
> inch lower.  The blocks used were not of the best quality, and I didn't
> like
> the installation method very much either (number 8 SS bolt with locking
> nut,
> about 1/4" from edge) as it looked like it would eventually pull out as
> well.  So I fabricated a set of strain plates and installed them on either
> side of the centerboard using eight 1/2" #6 stainless sheet-metal screws
> each side.  The plates were fabricated from 316 Stainless, and are 0.030"
> thick.  The plates were drilled with 1/4" holes to accept 1/4" x 1/2"
> clevis
> pins for the upgraded blocks shown in the picture:
> http://PoiesisResearch.com/Plates.png.  The older damaged areas were then
> filled in with epoxy putty and sanded smooth.
> 
> I also wanted to reduce the vertical axis rotational slop at the
> centerboard
> pin, so I fabricated the pin shown in the picture (in Anne's hand, also
> 316
> stainless steel) with bearing sleeves made from UHMW-PE as shown.  These
> bearings are set on shoulders machined into the pin and are 1/2" long
> axially.  The shoulders were polished to make a hard bearing surface, and
> the external diameter of the bearings forms a snug but not tight fit at
> the
> bottom of the centerboard trunk slot.  The centerboard is free to slide
> laterally on the pin.
> 
> After measuring my slots, etc., I thought a slightly larger than 5/8" I.D.
> hose could be used without binding anything and went shopping at my local
> rubber goods supplier's shop.  I found a Goodyear product (HORIZON tm 3/4"
> (19.1 mm) 200 PSI W.P) with an external diameter of about 1.125" that
> looked
> good and bought a couple of feet of it to try.  My slots are tapered both
> fore and aft and laterally, so this hose is tighter near the pivot pin
> than
> higher up, which is a nice design feature as it will keep the board
> centered
> in the trunk while the resistance to lateral movement will increase as the
> lateral movement traveling arc increases the contact area in the tapered
> area.
> 
> Two pieces of hose were cut just long enough so the bottoms touched the
> UHMW-PE bearings, and the tops become constrained when the centerboard
> trunk
> cap is put back in place.  Picture here:
> http://PoiesisResearch.com/Hoses.png.  The hoses were simply jammed into
> the
> slots from above.
> 
> We won't get a chance to try this system out this weekend, and since the
> boat is on a trailer I can't check the play of the centerboard until we
> get
> it back in the water . . . hopefully next weekend.  If I didn't
> inadvertently tangle up the pendant inside the trunk or leave areas
> unsealed
> on the trunk cap I expect the "new" system to work well!  I'll post
> results
> after we get some testing done, hopefully next weekend.
> 
> Bill
> 
> 
> 
> 
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