[Rhodes22-list] bilge/sole repair

Michael Hellyar michaelhellyar at icloud.com
Mon May 20 14:04:51 EDT 2013 

Without the aid of your experience I configured the sole in exactly the same 4 pieces. How are you pieces supported ? 

Mike Hellyar
sent from my iPad

On May 20, 2013, at 12:39 PM, "Michael D. Weisner" <mweisner at ebsmed.com> wrote:

> I replaced the cabin sole in my '81 with the same as the original, 3/4"
> plywood.  In those days, the floor was coated (top, bottom & SIDES) with
> resin since they used standard plywood so I did the same.  It was cut in 4
> pieces, port, starboard, center board trunk and bilge access (center of
> cabin, just aft of mast) making it easier to handle.  The only reason that I
> had replaced it was due to rain water collected in the cabin during a summer
> season and the fear of mold.  It was still in good shape after many years of
> service.
> 
> I have yet to peek at my '91 cabin sole.
> 
> Mike
> s/v <-- NoName -->  ('91)
> Nissequogue River, NY
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
> [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Graham Stewart
> Sent: Monday, May 20, 2013 10:48 AM
> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List'
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] bilge/sole repair
> 
> Can anyone tell me what the thickness of the floor boards are in current
> boats? What material is used? 
> 
> Mine are a retrofit done by a previous owner using 3/4" standard fir
> plywood. This is considerably thicker that what is used forward of the mast
> which looks like 1/2" marine ply. It doesn't flex but the span is much
> smaller. In going thinner I am not thinking of cost but rather weight. It
> seems that I am regularly removing the boards for one reason or another and
> managing a large piece of 3/4" plywood in the small space is a struggle for
> an old guy like me. But I don't want a spongy floor either so I am incline
> to go with whatever Stan is currently using given that he seems to be
> constantly refining everything.
> 
> Graham 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
> [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of
> R22RumRunner at aol.com
> Sent: May-20-13 8:27 AM
> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] bilge/sole repair
> 
> Gentlemen,
> I've been thinking about going from a 3/4" floor board to a 1/2" board. I
> can tell you that a 1/2" board will flex and give your galley a spongy
> floor. The 3/4" board has no give and makes the R22 a solid craft. I would
> not go thinner just to save a few dollars. Just my opinion.
> 
> Rummy
> 
> 
> In a message dated 5/19/2013 8:41:14 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> michaelhellyar at icloud.com writes:
> 
> Thanks  for the info.  Yes, I'm going to use 1/2. The span is so narrow. I
> will  post a photo of my mock up for comments before cutting the final
> pieces.
> Mike Hellyar
> sent from my iPad
> 
> On May 19, 2013, at 3:17  PM, Graham Stewart <gstewart8 at cogeco.ca> wrote:
> 
>> Michael:
>> 
>> On my boat (1974) the floor boards are made of 3/4  ply and sit 
>> directly
> on
>> the stringers and cross pieces. The boards are  screwed down to stay 
>> in
> place
>> but have openings cut out in strategic  places where you might want to 
>> get down in the bilge to service the  pump, sponge up water or 
>> retrieve things that slip down between the  cracks. The plywood cut 
>> out was then used to
> make
>> the hole cover by  bolting pieces of wood around the hole to make a 
>> flange that the cover  piece just sits in.
>> The stringers and cross pieces are all attached to  the hull with 
>> epoxy
> and
>> fibreglass cloth. There is also a strip the  runs along the join 
>> between
> the
>> hull and kick plate on the galley side  and the settee and hull on the
> other
>> side. This serves as a place to  screw the floorboards down on the 
>> outer edges. Newer designs might be  different.
>> 
>> None of this is original in my case except for  the forward section in
> front
>> of the mast but it appears to me that it  was built to copy the 
>> original construction. When I redo mine I think  I will see if I can 
>> get away with floor boards that are thinner than  3/4" as these are 
>> very heave and difficult to manoeuvre in a tight  space.
>> 
>> Graham Stewart
>> 
>> -----Original  Message-----
>> From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
>> [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Michael  
>> Hellyar
>> Sent: May-18-13 8:18 AM
>> To:  rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
>> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] bilge/sole  repair
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Replacing cabin  sole. Should it be supported on the bilge frame pieces ?
> If
>> so how can  these pieces be removed or should we GFlex epoxy repair 
>> over them.  Same question on lower bulkhead pieces. They don't appear
> structural.
>> What is best way to support new sole if not on the bilge frame. We
> prefer
>> not to tear up the bilge (expensive) but appreciate  recommendation.
> Previous
>> owner let this one sit out with water inside  obviously. But it is IMF
> rigged
>> and most repair is for the sole and  bilge. Plan to paint hull/bilge
> interior
>> with bilge paint. 
>> 
>> view toward bulkhead
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>> view toward cockpit
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>> Mike Hellyar
>> At Sandusky, Ohio
>> sent from my iPad
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