[Rhodes22-list] Seam line name

The Rhodes 22 Email List rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
Mon Dec 8 21:09:23 EST 2014 

 Hi:

Look way at the bottom. This is where attachments sometimes end up in
gmail.  And sometimes nabble gets funky.

Cheers,
Shawn
s/v Sweet Baboo (Recycled 86)




On Mon, Dec 8, 2014 at 6:03 PM, The Rhodes 22 Email List <
rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:

> I would like to see the drawing, but didn't find an attachment
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
> [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22
> Email
> List
> Sent: Monday, December 08, 2014 2:40 PM
> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List'
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Seam line name
>
> Chuy:
> I have attached a crude drawing of a cross-sectional view of the hull and
> deck joint. As you will see, the sealant goes in the space between where
> the
> hull and deck overlap. Ideally it would be best to remove the rivets in
> order to open the gap in order to remove the sealant. That requires the
> removal of the rub rail and chances are that the rail will be destroyed in
> the process. Once the sealant is forced into the gap the gap is closed with
> new rivets or bolts. You would do this in sections rather than all at once.
> The easier alternative is to just remove whatever sealant you can from the
> join and add sealant at the bottom of the gap but that will be a temporary
> fix based on my experience.
>
> I can't see where putting sealant on either side of the rub rail would
> accomplish much of anything other than make a mess. It is the gap that
> needs
> to be sealed, not the rub rail.
>
> The rivets on my deck hull join held firmly for 35 years but if I were to
> replace them I would probably use bolts and at closer intervals to give
> less
> movement to the join area. But I have already glassed the join on the
> inside
> so any hardware is probably redundant anyway.
>
> I will be interested to see what Rummy's strategy is.
>
> Graham
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
> [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22
> Email
> List
> Sent: December-08-14 12:16 PM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Seam line name
>
> Graham:
>   Yes, the aluminum track with the black plastic.  When Stan riveted the
> rub
> rail, he joined the top half to the bottom half of the boat.  So ,there is
> a
> seam where the top part meets the bottom part. My question refers to how
> these two parts meet.  Does the top half overlap the bottom, there they are
> riveted?  On my Rhodes the top half appears to slide down and to the
> outside
> of the hull half.  The rivets are then inserted into the two halves. The
> rivets after a time will make the hole larger allowing water to enter the
> boat in some cases to enter the cabin or the cockpit.
>
> Does this sound right to you.  I had wanted to redo the aluminum track but
> I
> do not want to use rivets.  Would rather use bolts but there are some areas
> where I can not get to the inside to place the nut.  I I think screws would
> be worst than rivets.  A few people replied that they had silicone the top
> and bottom of the rail and it seemed to be working.  So, I will try it.  It
> seems to me, that unless the holes get very large the leaks can be
> contained
> with a seal on the rail.
>
> I do have another question for you.  The doors inside the galley use a
> track.  You had mentioned that you are using or will be using some track
> from Lowe's, can you give me more details on the track you plan on using
> and
> also the type and thickness of material you plan on using on the top and
> bottom galley doors.
>
> Thank for taking the time to answer all my questions and concerns.
>
> Happy Holidays,
>
> Chuy
> Rhodes 22 , After-Math
> ---- The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> > Chuy:
> >
> > I don't think I understand the question. I don't know what the
> > "sheets" are that you are referring to. It may be that your boat has a
> > different rub rail than mine and that is the reason I don't
> > understand. On my boat the rub rail consists of an aluminium track
> > that is screwed to the hull with a black plastic insert that goes into
> > the
> track. Is this what you are referring to?
> >
> >
> >
> > Graham
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
> > [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22
> > Email List
> > Sent: December-06-14 9:41 AM
> > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
> > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Seam line name
> >
> > Hi Graham,
> >   On the rub rail.  How are the top and bottom sheets joined?  Are
> > they butted, overlapping?  Some replied that they had to wedge in some
> rubber.
> > How and where does this rubber go?
> >
> > Thanks Again,
> > Chuy
> >
> >
> > ---- The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> > > Chuy:
> > >
> > > I assume that you are you talking about the hull- deck join? If so
> > > the leak will only occur when healing or taking a large wave. The
> > > "simplest" solution is to remove the sealant in the join and force
> > > new sealant in. Easier said than done. I have used a small wedge to
> > > open the join a bit to allow more sealant in. It is important to
> > > remove all of the old sealant or the new sealant will not hold for
> long.
> > > Important, but also virtually impossible so do you best. I have done
> > > this several times over 20 years so that might give you some idea of
> > > the
> > permanence.
> > >
> > > Picking the right sealant is important and also a matter that can
> > > lead to great debates. If you use sealant like 3M 5200 or equivalent
> > > you will never get it out again. For hull-deck joins that is usually
> > > desirable because of the strength and, if you are putting it on
> > > fibreglass that has no silicone trace, want to be permanent. In this
> > > case I would anticipate that you might want to redo this fix in the
> > > future and would be inclined to use 3M 4200 or equivalent. I would
> > > be
> > interested to hear from others on this point.
> > >
> > > Ultimately, because I was doing a major reconstruction and had
> > > gutted the entire cabin, I decided to glass the entire join on the
> inside.
> > > That seals it up "permanently" and gives the hull considerably less
> > > flex at the joint which I assume is a good thing.  To do that I had
> > > to remove the rub rail and the rivets and screws along the join as
> > > you don't want to be glassing around these obstacles. When I reach
> > > that stage in my reconstruction I will add bolts along the join
> > > before replacing the rub rail. If that doesn't fix the leak once and
> > > for all, I
> > give up.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Graham
> > >
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
> > > [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes
> > > 22 Email List
> > > Sent: December-05-14 9:07 AM
> > > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
> > > Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Seam line name
> > >
> > > Hi All,
> > >   Have a leak in my Rhodes 22.  I think most of the water is coming
> > > from the seam where the top skin and bottom skin are joined.  First
> > > what is that seam called?  Second, any ideas on how to repair it?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > Chuy
> > > Rhodes 22, After-Math
> > > __________________________________________________
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