[Rhodes22-list] boat lift and bottom repair update

The Rhodes 22 Email List rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
Sat Jul 12 14:17:25 EDT 2014 

Stephen:
Your sympathy overwhelms me. Don't get too cocky though, all boats
eventually need their bottoms done.

Graham 



-----Original Message-----
From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
[mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22 Email
List
Sent: July-12-14 8:48 AM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] boat lift and bottom repair update

My heart goes out to you Graham. As I write this, I am sitting on my boat
sipping fresh perc'd organic coffee having spent another glorious night
sleeping on a mooring @ Salem Willows Yacht Club in Salem, MA. We had a
lovely sail here on Wednesday and will head home to SYC today. 

May you sail again soon. 

Stephen Staum
s/v Carol Lee 2
Needham, MA

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 11, 2014, at 10:25 PM, The Rhodes 22 Email List
<rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:

> I have been putting my boat lift to good use the last week. I am 
> stripping the bottom paint, which is a miserable job under any 
> circumstance but being able to do so while sitting on a bar stool 
> makes is immeasurably more comfortable. I used copious amounts of 
> "safe" paint remover (West Marine) and a carbon blade scraper 
> (Sandvic) to get most of the paint off. Regular steel bladed paint 
> scrapers are almost useless. I still have to go at it with sandpaper to
remove the last 10%.
> 
> The paint remover will dry faster than it will soften the paint in 80 
> degree weather. When it dries it stops working and you then have to 
> remove the hard paint remover. The best solution I found was to coat 
> the bottom in sections of about 4' and then cover it with plastic 
> film. Heavy film (6 mil) falls off with its own weight while 2 mil 
> stuff stays in place. With the plastic you can leave it to work for 
> well over 24 hours. I had to do this at least 3 times to get to the 
> point where I will sand. It is a totally dirty, stinking, exhausting 
> job. My arms were dropping off after the first hour - and there were at
least 20 hours after that to really make me miserable.
> 
> In removing the paint I have found lots of blisters which I assume are 
> osmotic blisters. Most a quite small and none have any fluid or space 
> behind them. In some areas the gelcoat has dozens of mini blisters 
> within a patch of about 6 square inches. Has anyone seen this?  I 
> expect that the blistering is worse than it looks as the boat has been 
> out of the water for over three years. Has anyone tackled this problem
with their boat?
> 
> After I grind out the blisters and fix with epoxy I intend to put on 
> multiple epoxy barrier coats.
> 
> I plan to raise the waterline by 2" as some of the blisters are above 
> the current waterline. My boat seemed to sit stern down as the actual 
> waterline was higher than the painted waterline. Of course that could 
> be from weight in the stern but I don't think I have anything there 
> that you would not expect to find such as the motor. I want to make 
> sure that any part of the hull that sits below water has the epoxy 
> protection so I am adjusting the waterline to something just above 
> where the boat actually rests in the water.
> 
> Finding the new waterline can be a difficult task but by having the 
> front and rear slings on the lift operating independently with chain 
> hoists I am able to level the boat quite easily fore and aft. I then 
> used my rotary laser level ($60 at Home Depot) first to align with the 
> existing waterline and then cranked it up 2" to locate the new line. 
> This seemed to work pretty well and I am happy that the lines on the 
> port and starboard meet perfectly at the bow and in the same plane at the
transom.
> 
> I discovered that the original lines were not located in the same 
> place port and starboard and where they meet the transom were not in 
> the same plane so that the waterline across the transom was not level. 
> I probably never noticed before as boats are always listing anyway but 
> when it comes to locating a new line that difference can be a real 
> pain. The lines seemed to go off for the last 3 feet at the stern so I 
> was able to use the rest of the boat to align the rotary laser with 
> the existing waterline, crank up the level 2" and then take the lines
trough at the stern.
> 
> BTW, I discovered that if you want to raise the waterline exactly 2" 
> and have it work out evenly on both sides, you can't just measure up 
> 2" from the old line. If you measure up on both sides at exactly the 
> same place it might come out the same on both sides but it definitely 
> will not be exactly 2". To get that right I dropped a ruler vertically 
> at the side of the boat and aligned the 2" mark with the laser and 
> then marked the new position where the ruler end touched the hull. I 
> then used the new mark to align the rotary laser to and from there 
> marked the rest of the hull. This is definitely a summer job as the 
> laser light in these armature tools is quite weak for outdoor use and 
> the line cannot be seen until dusk. You can rent commercial units that 
> are much brighter but I already had the unit from when I installed a
suspended ceiling.
> 
> Once the paint is completely removed, blisters filled and the hull 
> faired and ready for epoxy I will tackle the repair of the outside of the
keel.
> Finally, I will try to get access to the inside of the keel with a 
> view to removing and replacing ballast and making structural repairs 
> to the keel from the inside. All that depends on what I actually find 
> inside the keel and whether it is practical or even possible to remove
what is there.
> 
> These jobs just get worse.
> 
> Graham
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
> [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22 
> Email List
> Sent: July-11-14 8:39 PM
> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List'
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Motor winch
> 
> One option also is to purchase one of these things and wire it into 
> your winch.  At only 23.00 + shipping, it is a really inexpensive
solution.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Pilot-Performance-Lighting-PL-SW29-Wireless/dp/B
> 000BRJ
> F62/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1333130375&sr=1-1
> 
> James
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
> [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22 
> Email List
> Sent: Friday, July 11, 2014 7:04 PM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Motor winch
> 
> Does anyone have an idea of how long to expect the remotes to work? 
> Stan I don't know if this is a newer feature on the Rhodes and no one 
> has prolonged experience or if the remotes last for years.
> 
> John Waldhausen
> Sent from my iPad
> 
>> On Jul 11, 2014, at 2:54 PM, The Rhodes 22 Email List
> <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>> 
>> I have the Chicago Electric Power Tools Model 95912 12 volt electric 
>> winch from Harbor Freight and have searched far and wide for a new 
>> remote... no luck. Stan said he has no replacement. I ended up buying 
>> what may have been the last winch on the market from an ebay seller. 
>> I figured if I lose my remote I can just install the new winch (which 
>> also came with a remote). I tested the new remote with my current 
>> winch and it doesn't work so I assume each remote came with a code 
>> matched
> to its specific winch.
>> 
>> You could consider installing a wired winch remote. I believe I saw 
>> explanations on how to do this somewhere on the Internet. Good luck.
>> 
>> PS: I keep a Schaefer BoomVang Kit on board that I could quickly 
>> install between the stern rail and the motor in case I drop my remote 
>> overboard or my winch motor quits.
>> 
>> Geoff
>> 
>> 
>> On Fri, Jul 11, 2014 at 4:16 PM, The Rhodes 22 Email List < 
>> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>> 
>>> Dear all
>>> I have a Rhodes with the Chicago power tools remote control winch to 
>>> raise and lower the motor. It comes from Harbor freight. I have 
>>> searched both company websites to find a replacement remote. I 
>>> cannot find one. ( my original works but is corroding) does anyone 
>>> know where to obtain a replacement?
>>> 
>>> John Waldhausen
>>> Bainbridge island
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>> __________________________________________________
> 
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> 
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> 
> __________________________________________________
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