[Rhodes22-list] New Joint of Deck and Hull from originator

The Rhodes 22 Email List rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
Sun Feb 8 16:27:36 EST 2015


Hi Graham,

Don Casey is a good writer for recreational sailing publications.  However,
I have never seen him write for the boat building industry, like Profession
Boat Builder magazine.  Yet it is a good thing that since writing the book
you read, he now seems to know the difference between a sealant and an
adhesive.

If you want the advice of many who spend all their days doing it, check the
ISO or AYBA standards.

Rick

On Sat, Feb 7, 2015 at 7:48 PM, The Rhodes 22 Email List <
rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:

> Hi Chuy:
>
> The postings opposed to the idea of fixing the hull-deck join with
> fibreglass lay-up were making me increasingly doubt the approach I
> suggested. However, your reference to Don Casey's article in Sail magazine
> prompted me to check the subject of hull-deck repairs in Casey's  book
> Sailboat Hull and Deck Repairs that I had read about 4 years ago and had
> forgotten about. I knew that I had not just dreamt up the idea of joining
> the hull and deck with fibreglass layup but I could not remember where the
> idea originated. Casey gives detailed instructions for sealing with 5200
> and
> re-fastening where access to the joint is not feasible. That said, he
> states
> the following:
>
> "FIBERGLASSING
> THE BEST SOLUTION FOR A LEAKING HULL-to-deck joint is to join the two parts
> permanently with fibreglass lay-up. This can be done either inside or
> outside, depending on access and the design of the joint." (Emphasis is in
> the original text.)
>
> In discussing types of joints, Casey says: "The best joints are
> fibreglasses
> together into a single strong and leak-free unit, but few are built this
> way. Most are joined mechanically with rivets, screws, or bolts and depend
> on sealant to keep water out."
>
> In my case, getting access to the joint involved removing the covering pads
> (a few screws), cutting back the lip of the liner, and removing the wooden
> strip below the joint -all tasks that are much easier than removing and
> replacing the rub rail and all of the hull-deck fasteners. I removed my rub
> rail because I also had major deck core replacement to do but had that not
> been the case I would have stayed with the inside glassing alone.
>
> At least now I can sleep knowing that I had not lost my mind or ruined the
> boat.
>
>
> Graham
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
> [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22
> Email
> List
> Sent: February-06-15 1:14 AM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] New Joint of Deck and Hull from originator
>
> Hi ALL ,
>    I received my special anniversary issue of Sail Magazine early in the
> week but did not have time to read it., Volume 46 Number 2 February 2015.
> Tonight I open it to the table of contents and guess what one of the
> articles was about?   Page 60, "Sealed up Tight When is comes to securing
> the hull to deck, which method is best?" by Don Casey.
>
> The author states "Boat builders are increasingly relying on high-strength
> methacrylate adhesives to fuse the hull to the deck into a single, leak
> proof component, in some cases omitting mechanical fasteners all together".
> Further he states that this process is expansive so some builders use
> flexible adhesives to bond the deck and hull, like 5200.  He goes on and
> states that repairs on the joint are not treated as two halves, since there
> is no reason to.  In most cases the deck to hull repair is done without a
> joint in the damaged area.
>
> The article is very well written and easy to follow.  He explains the
> different hull to deck joints used.  Their strengths and weaknesses and the
> reason to for their use.
>
> After reading the article, I think that I most of my ideas with a few minor
> adjustments.
>
> Thanks for all your input.
>
> Chuy
> AfterMath  1987
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