[Rhodes22-list] Cabin Roof Plate

The Rhodes 22 Email List rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
Thu May 7 15:29:05 EDT 2015


I used a two part epoxy for the holes and 3m 5200 for the water penetration.  I will see if it works tomorrow morning.

Christopher P. Cowie    

4400 MacArthur Blvd, NW
Suite 300
Washington, DC 20007
202.342.2711 ex.204 ● 202.342.2691 fax ● 202.270.1470 mobile
[ccowie at cowieassociates.com]


Please consider the environment before printing this email.

-----Original Message-----
From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22 Email List
Sent: Thursday, May 07, 2015 3:27 PM
To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Cabin Roof Plate

Rick,
I'm, sorry, but I disagree. You must fill the holes with epoxy for strength  and also to seal the area from water penetration. 4200 should not be used.
 
Rummy
 
 
In a message dated 5/4/2015 11:31:01 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org writes:

Filling  the larger holes with epoxy would be very risky.  The next time you over stress the plate, the epoxy plugs plus gelcoat will tear  out.  It would be better to fill with 3M 4200.

Rick

On  Mon, May 4, 2015 at 10:59 AM, The Rhodes 22 Email List  < rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:

> Thanks.  My  blunder is limited to the Cabin Roof Plate, so far, that 
> the hoist  crane attaches to  and your advice to drill out the screw 
> holes
and
> fill with epoxy sound good.
>
>  Details:
>
> READ THE INSTRUCTIONS!  Ok, I have had my boat  for five years and had 
> the mast up and down a few times so I figured  this would be a 20 
> minute exercise to lower the mast for some mast top  maintenance.  The 
> mast crane that came with my boat has a bale on  it to connect the line with shackles
> to the bale on the mast.   The crane currently on my boat was apparently
> replaced during a visit  to the plant with a different crane that does 
> not have a bale rather  two connection points for the turnbuckles of 
> the two
aft
> lower  shrouds.  I have never lowered the mast with the shroud method
before
> so I simply clipped one end of the line with shackles to the  bow 
> cleat
and
> the other end to the crane and then connected the crane  line to the 
> mast bale.  That is backwards from the instructions I  failed to read.  
> The
mast
> came down but pulled the crane base  plate out of the cabin top and 
> the
mast
> decided to go 45 degrees to  port.  I managed to pull the mast back to 
> center and lower it  then realized two more blunders.  I remembered to 
> disconnect the  sliding hatch but failed to close the hatch and failed 
> to move the  slider up the mast.  My sliding hatch now has some 
> crunched  fiberglass to remind me to close the hatch next time.  The 
> final error
was
> not having sufficient length in the lower forward shrouds that get  
> the chains.  Wrong chain position and or not having the  turnbuckle 
> open enough.  The result was some very tight shrouds  that bent the 
> top of the chain plates.  So after five years of  boating without any 
> major screw
ups I
> suppose this makes me an  official Rhodie!
>
> Christopher P. Cowie
>
> 4400  MacArthur Blvd, NW
> Suite 300
> Washington, DC 20007
>  202.342.2711 ex.204 ● 202.342.2691 fax ● 202.270.1470 mobile  
> [ccowie at cowieassociates.com]
>
>
> Please consider the  environment before printing this email.
>
> -----Original  Message-----
> From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org [mailto:
>  rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22 Email
List
> Sent: Monday, May 04, 2015 10:30 AM
> To: 'The Rhodes 22  Email List'
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Cabin Roof  Plate
>
> Christopher,
>
> I would drill out the holes  you are going to make for the screws 
> twice as wide and the teeth of  the screws, then back fill the holes with Epoxy.
> Once that is dry,  sand it flush with the deck and drill pilot holes 
> into the epoxy for  the new screws.
>
> This way there is no direct path from the  screw to the core material 
> and you don't end up with a soft deck like  I have.  Lots of people 
> try to depend on the surface sealants  between the plate and the deck, 
> but the
work
> that happens at the  screw/plate/deck area will create an opening to 
> the core where water  can seep.  By drilling out a hole twice as wide 
> as the screws  teeth, you gain a water proof buffer between the screws 
> and the water  absorbing core material.
>
> James Nichols
>
>  -----Original Message-----
> From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org  [mailto:
> rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes  22 Email 
> List
> Sent: Monday, May 4, 2015 9:12 AM
> To:  rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Cabin Roof  Plate
>
> I managed to rip the cabin roof plate, used to connect  the mast hoist 
> crane, off my boat yesterday, don't ask how, and I need  to reinstall.  
> I understand that this plate can be screwed to the  cabin top or thru
bolted.
> I prefer to try and make the repair with the  screws.  I will use 3M 
> 5200 Polyurethane Adhesive/Sealant from  the plate to the cabin top.  
> My
question
> is what I should fill  the two screw holes with to re insert the  screws? 
 I
> assume  this should be the West System #404 High Density Filler that 
> can
be
>  injected into the striped screw holes and then re drill two 3/16"  
> pilot holes once it has dried.  Does this seem like to correct  repair?
>
>
>
> -----
> Christopher P.  Cowie
>
> 4400 MacArthur Blvd, NW
> Suite 300
>  Washington, DC 20007
> 202.342.2711 ex.204 ● 202.342.2691 fax ●  202.270.1470 mobile [  
> ccowie at cowieassociates.com]
>
>
>
> --
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>
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