[Rhodes22-list] Non-skid

The Rhodes 22 Email List rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
Sat Sep 26 21:21:33 EDT 2015


Ted:
It would be nice to launch next spring but the warm weather is just about
over and I will be unable to do much more in a few weeks as the temperature
plunges. I still have the entire inside to rebuild and that could take a
while. I am tempted to launch before the inside is rebuilt.

Graham Stewart
Agile. R22, 1976
Kingston Ontario Canada




-----Original Message-----
From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
[mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22 Email
List
Sent: September 25, 2015 10:44 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Non-skid

Looking good, Graham! Looks like she will be ready to sail next season.

Cheers,
Ted

S/V AIRPOWER 
1991/2013 R22
Jacksonville, FL



> On Sep 25, 2015, at 9:53 PM, The Rhodes 22 Email List
<rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> 
> We had fabulous weather for Ontario in September this week and I was able
to mask the boat and apply non-skid. I have done the cabin top, side decks
and foredeck. The cockpit and pop top still need to be done - hopefully
tomorrow -but you can see the effect for the attached photos.
> 
> The biggest part of the job by far was the masking and in particular
rounding the corners. I used a 3/4 in washer as a template for the corners.
They looked great with the blue masking tape but with the non-skid being
rough and a similar color to the deck paint the profile of the corners
virtually disappeared. So my advice would be to exaggerate the rounded
corners if you want them to be very visible. I was amazingly lucky color
wise. The deck paint and the non-skid are both off-white and from different
manufacturers, both of whom have very limited choice, but as it turned out
the two coatings go together very well.
> 
> 
> I used Kiwigrip for the non-skid because of what I had read about it being
very durable and easy to apply. I will have to wait to see how durable it is
but can attest to it being easy to apply. Once the surface is prepared you
apply the thick paint with a 1/8" notched trowel to get an even but thick
layer and then roll it out with a special roller sold by the manufacturer.
The harder you press the more aggressive the non-skid. I found I had to
press firmly to get rid of the lines from the trowel but then lightened up
in an attempt to tame it a bit. The non-skid is still much more aggressive
than the original pattern molded into the Rhodes deck but the surface is not
particularly sharp.
> 
> It is a latex paint so it dries to the touch in a few hours. You pick up
the technique for rolling the non-skid in a matter of minutes. I practiced
for a few minutes on a piece of cardboard. This product is not cheap but I
think it is worth it from an effort point of view.
> 
> Because it dries quickly you have to apply it in small sections. They
recommend sections between 2 and 4 sq. ft. and so you need to carve up the
deck into manageable pieces. You also need to remove the masking tape as you
go - one section at a time before you move on to the next. As a result the
process is pretty messy and so I was glad I used extensive masking . I could
not remove the tape wearing gloves so my hands were covered in paint.
Fortunately is washes off pretty easily with water. Tool cleanup is also
easy. 
> 
> Based on this experience I don't think I would consider anything else as
it is hard to see how it could be easier and still give a nice looking
result. 
> 
> They recommend that this be done by two people but I didn't have that
option available to me and managed fine on my own. I bought one gallon of
the paint and that will be more than enough to use the non skid paint
extensively on the cabin top, pop top, cockpit seats and probably coaming
tops as well as all of the original non-skid. If you were only doing the
original non-skid areas two quarts would be sufficient. 
> 
> I suppose I should mention why all of this was necessary given that the
Rhodes has a very nice pattern moulded into the deck. I had to do major
surgery on my foredeck to replace the core. It involved cutting the deck in
half and removing it from the boat. Reinstalling it meant there was a major
scar across the deck that destroyed the non-skid pattern. I also wanted to
strengthen the deck a bit so I glassed over the entire non-skid area. Now
that I thnk about it all of the foregoing is probably of little value to
those on this list.
> 
> 
> Graham Stewart
> Agile. R22, 1976
> Kingston Ontario Canada
> 
> 
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