From ohecht at earthlink.net  Mon Aug  1 16:05:19 2016
From: ohecht at earthlink.net (The Hechts)
Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2016 16:05:19 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Installing tiller lock box in cockpit coming
Message-ID: <56A36215-F4AE-470E-8193-DD4071BC486C@earthlink.net>

I'm trying to improve the tiller lock options for short times away from the tiller. Fretless has the clip on the side rail but I've found it doesn't hold that well. I've got it working for now but also wanted to try installing the lockbox in the cockpit coming as I've used on other boats. 

I bought the Forespar lockbox from West Marine and took it out to the boat yesterday for test fitting. The problem is that, anywhere I could mount the lock box in the coming will put the tiller extension at a very extreme downward angle from the tiller to the lockbox. Far too much of an angle to allow the tiller to be adjusted if it would even lock at all. I'm sorry I didn't take pictures but the closest angle I could get has to be more than 30 degrees below horizontal...it was not even close. 

I know using a lockbox should work as I've seen it (and used it) on other Rhodes 22s. In case it matters, my tiller extension mounts on top of the tiller. I've considered whether moving it to the bottom of the tiller would help, but even that wouldn't get the extension near horizontal and I'm sure that would make using the extension elsewhere around the cockpit impossible. I checked and the tiller was all the way "down" (perpendicular to the rudder post). I'm struggling to understand what could be different about the basic geometry of my cockpit sides, tiller and tiller extension that makes it seem impossible to use this lockbox. 

Thanks,

Olivier
s/v Fretless

From retiredtoby at gmail.com  Mon Aug  1 18:15:40 2016
From: retiredtoby at gmail.com (Cary Tolbert)
Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2016 18:15:40 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Installing tiller lock box in cockpit coming
In-Reply-To: <56A36215-F4AE-470E-8193-DD4071BC486C@earthlink.net>
References: <56A36215-F4AE-470E-8193-DD4071BC486C@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <CAPQvPRqq5BbGimarjmQLHax9H3FvvYZZnGz17rJ7sMM9DJFHAg@mail.gmail.com>

Olivier, try Defender Marine, they have WaveFront tiller clutch kits.
The box is mounted on the underside of the tiller and the line attaches to
the
stern so it is mostly out of the way. I just bought one and I must say, I
should have thought about having one much sooner.
Cary
S/V Whisper

On Mon, Aug 1, 2016 at 4:05 PM, The Hechts <ohecht at earthlink.net> wrote:

> I'm trying to improve the tiller lock options for short times away from
> the tiller. Fretless has the clip on the side rail but I've found it
> doesn't hold that well. I've got it working for now but also wanted to try
> installing the lockbox in the cockpit coming as I've used on other boats.
>
> I bought the Forespar lockbox from West Marine and took it out to the boat
> yesterday for test fitting. The problem is that, anywhere I could mount the
> lock box in the coming will put the tiller extension at a very extreme
> downward angle from the tiller to the lockbox. Far too much of an angle to
> allow the tiller to be adjusted if it would even lock at all. I'm sorry I
> didn't take pictures but the closest angle I could get has to be more than
> 30 degrees below horizontal...it was not even close.
>
> I know using a lockbox should work as I've seen it (and used it) on other
> Rhodes 22s. In case it matters, my tiller extension mounts on top of the
> tiller. I've considered whether moving it to the bottom of the tiller would
> help, but even that wouldn't get the extension near horizontal and I'm sure
> that would make using the extension elsewhere around the cockpit
> impossible. I checked and the tiller was all the way "down" (perpendicular
> to the rudder post). I'm struggling to understand what could be different
> about the basic geometry of my cockpit sides, tiller and tiller extension
> that makes it seem impossible to use this lockbox.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Olivier
> s/v Fretless
> __________________________________________________
> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to
> http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
>
> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go
> to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> __________________________________________________
>

From mtroy at atlanticbb.net  Mon Aug  1 19:35:41 2016
From: mtroy at atlanticbb.net (Mary Lou Troy)
Date: Mon, 01 Aug 2016 19:35:41 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Installing tiller lock box in cockpit  coming
In-Reply-To: <56A36215-F4AE-470E-8193-DD4071BC486C@earthlink.net>
References: <56A36215-F4AE-470E-8193-DD4071BC486C@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <auto-000444778783@smtp03.cluster1.echolabs.net>

Hi Olivier,
The original clips for the tiller on Fretless were (I assume) hand 
made by GB out of some sort of high density plastic to fit the 
diameter of that particular tiller extension. When they broke (sun 
exposure I think) we installed the closest clip we could find. It 
didn't fit exactly (as you know) so we wrapped the end of the tiller 
extension with rigging tape until it did. Here's a pic of Fred with 
Fretless sailing herself. You can see the rigging tape on the extension.

Good luck with finding a solution.

Mary Lou

At 04:05 PM 8/1/2016, you wrote:
>I'm trying to improve the tiller lock options for short times away 
>from the tiller. Fretless has the clip on the side rail but I've 
>found it doesn't hold that well. I've got it working for now but 
>also wanted to try installing the lockbox in the cockpit coming as 
>I've used on other boats.
>
>I bought the Forespar lockbox from West Marine and took it out to 
>the boat yesterday for test fitting. The problem is that, anywhere I 
>could mount the lock box in the coming will put the tiller extension 
>at a very extreme downward angle from the tiller to the lockbox. Far 
>too much of an angle to allow the tiller to be adjusted if it would 
>even lock at all. I'm sorry I didn't take pictures but the closest 
>angle I could get has to be more than 30 degrees below 
>horizontal...it was not even close.
>
>I know using a lockbox should work as I've seen it (and used it) on 
>other Rhodes 22s. In case it matters, my tiller extension mounts on 
>top of the tiller. I've considered whether moving it to the bottom 
>of the tiller would help, but even that wouldn't get the extension 
>near horizontal and I'm sure that would make using the extension 
>elsewhere around the cockpit impossible. I checked and the tiller 
>was all the way "down" (perpendicular to the rudder post). I'm 
>struggling to understand what could be different about the basic 
>geometry of my cockpit sides, tiller and tiller extension that makes 
>it seem impossible to use this lockbox.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Olivier
>s/v Fretless
>__________________________________________________
>To subscribe/unsubscribe go to 
>http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
>
>For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and 
>archives go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
>__________________________________________________
>
>
>-----
>No virus found in this message.
>Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>Version: 2016.0.7690 / Virus Database: 4627/12726 - Release Date: 08/01/16
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From blue66corvette at hotmail.com  Mon Aug  1 19:51:14 2016
From: blue66corvette at hotmail.com (Charles Nieman)
Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2016 23:51:14 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Installing tiller lock box in cockpit coming
In-Reply-To: <56A36215-F4AE-470E-8193-DD4071BC486C@earthlink.net>
References: <56A36215-F4AE-470E-8193-DD4071BC486C@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <DM3PR18MB0731917A4A6672D00C210411D9040@DM3PR18MB0731.namprd18.prod.outlook.com>

Oliver
I've got one of these and as a result I NEVER use the lock for the hiking extension. I'm pretty certain you can buy for less than what West Marine sells them for....or some people just run a "rope" across the cockpit looped around the tiller and that is free and holds just fine. 

http://www.westmarine.com/buy/davis-instruments--tiller-tamer--160739

Sent from my iPhone

Charles 
s/v Daydream

> On Aug 1, 2016, at 3:05 PM, The Hechts <ohecht at earthlink.net> wrote:
> 
> I'm trying to improve the tiller lock options for short times away from the tiller. Fretless has the clip on the side rail but I've found it doesn't hold that well. I've got it working for now but also wanted to try installing the lockbox in the cockpit coming as I've used on other boats. 
> 
> I bought the Forespar lockbox from West Marine and took it out to the boat yesterday for test fitting. The problem is that, anywhere I could mount the lock box in the coming will put the tiller extension at a very extreme downward angle from the tiller to the lockbox. Far too much of an angle to allow the tiller to be adjusted if it would even lock at all. I'm sorry I didn't take pictures but the closest angle I could get has to be more than 30 degrees below horizontal...it was not even close. 
> 
> I know using a lockbox should work as I've seen it (and used it) on other Rhodes 22s. In case it matters, my tiller extension mounts on top of the tiller. I've considered whether moving it to the bottom of the tiller would help, but even that wouldn't get the extension near horizontal and I'm sure that would make using the extension elsewhere around the cockpit impossible. I checked and the tiller was all the way "down" (perpendicular to the rudder post). I'm struggling to understand what could be different about the basic geometry of my cockpit sides, tiller and tiller extension that makes it seem impossible to use this lockbox. 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Olivier
> s/v Fretless
> __________________________________________________
> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
> 
> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> __________________________________________________

From ohecht at earthlink.net  Mon Aug  1 19:57:55 2016
From: ohecht at earthlink.net (The Hechts)
Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2016 19:57:55 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Installing tiller lock box in cockpit  coming
In-Reply-To: <auto-000444778783@smtp03.cluster1.echolabs.net>
References: <56A36215-F4AE-470E-8193-DD4071BC486C@earthlink.net>
 <auto-000444778783@smtp03.cluster1.echolabs.net>
Message-ID: <D44DA2F9-E4E8-497A-B791-9A126C7A6629@earthlink.net>

Thanks Mary Lou. That's actually what I ended up doing on my last sail and it works ok. I'm still very curious why the lockbox option doesn't seem workable on Fretless, though!

> On Aug 1, 2016, at 7:35 PM, Mary Lou Troy <mtroy at atlanticbb.net> wrote:
> 
> Hi Olivier,
> The original clips for the tiller on Fretless were (I assume) hand made by GB out of some sort of high density plastic to fit the diameter of that particular tiller extension. When they broke (sun exposure I think) we installed the closest clip we could find. It didn't fit exactly (as you know) so we wrapped the end of the tiller extension with rigging tape until it did. Here's a pic of Fred with Fretless sailing herself. You can see the rigging tape on the extension.
> 
> Good luck with finding a solution.
> 
> Mary Lou
> 
> At 04:05 PM 8/1/2016, you wrote:
>> I'm trying to improve the tiller lock options for short times away from the tiller. Fretless has the clip on the side rail but I've found it doesn't hold that well. I've got it working for now but also wanted to try installing the lockbox in the cockpit coming as I've used on other boats.
>> 
>> I bought the Forespar lockbox from West Marine and took it out to the boat yesterday for test fitting. The problem is that, anywhere I could mount the lock box in the coming will put the tiller extension at a very extreme downward angle from the tiller to the lockbox. Far too much of an angle to allow the tiller to be adjusted if it would even lock at all. I'm sorry I didn't take pictures but the closest angle I could get has to be more than 30 degrees below horizontal...it was not even close.
>> 
>> I know using a lockbox should work as I've seen it (and used it) on other Rhodes 22s. In case it matters, my tiller extension mounts on top of the tiller. I've considered whether moving it to the bottom of the tiller would help, but even that wouldn't get the extension near horizontal and I'm sure that would make using the extension elsewhere around the cockpit impossible. I checked and the tiller was all the way "down" (perpendicular to the rudder post). I'm struggling to understand what could be different about the basic geometry of my cockpit sides, tiller and tiller extension that makes it seem impossible to use this lockbox.
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> 
>> Olivier
>> s/v Fretless
>> __________________________________________________
>> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
>> 
>> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
>> __________________________________________________
>> 
>> 
>> -----
>> No virus found in this message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>> Version: 2016.0.7690 / Virus Database: 4627/12726 - Release Date: 08/01/16
> -------------- next part --------------
> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> Name: may1504sail 001 - tiller closeup.jpg
> Type: image/jpeg
> Size: 369145 bytes
> Desc: not available
> URL: <http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20160801/90adce8d/attachment.jpg>
> __________________________________________________
> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
> 
> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> __________________________________________________


From bgreenwald at optonline.net  Tue Aug  2 09:05:08 2016
From: bgreenwald at optonline.net (Bruce Greenwald)
Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2016 09:05:08 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Installing tiller lock box in cockpit  coming
In-Reply-To: <auto-000444778783@smtp03.cluster1.echolabs.net>
References: <56A36215-F4AE-470E-8193-DD4071BC486C@earthlink.net>
 <auto-000444778783@smtp03.cluster1.echolabs.net>
Message-ID: <B4FDEEEB-0CF0-4C33-B354-5E96A3B511BE@optonline.net>

Olivier,

I had a similar problem with the lockbox on my new in 2014 boat.  The box just wouldn?t accommodate the angle although, curiously, the downward tiller angle differed depending on how it was rotated.  In any event, I pretty much solved the problem by simply turning the box upside down (so the small diameter is on top). I don?t know how yours is currently installed but the screw holes are symmetrical and so reversing the installation took all of five minutes and, as I said, made a big difference.

Bruce Greenwald
S/V Ruach

> On Aug 1, 2016, at 7:35 PM, Mary Lou Troy <mtroy at atlanticbb.net> wrote:
> 
> Hi Olivier,
> The original clips for the tiller on Fretless were (I assume) hand made by GB out of some sort of high density plastic to fit the diameter of that particular tiller extension. When they broke (sun exposure I think) we installed the closest clip we could find. It didn't fit exactly (as you know) so we wrapped the end of the tiller extension with rigging tape until it did. Here's a pic of Fred with Fretless sailing herself. You can see the rigging tape on the extension.
> 
> Good luck with finding a solution.
> 
> Mary Lou
> 
> At 04:05 PM 8/1/2016, you wrote:
>> I'm trying to improve the tiller lock options for short times away from the tiller. Fretless has the clip on the side rail but I've found it doesn't hold that well. I've got it working for now but also wanted to try installing the lockbox in the cockpit coming as I've used on other boats.
>> 
>> I bought the Forespar lockbox from West Marine and took it out to the boat yesterday for test fitting. The problem is that, anywhere I could mount the lock box in the coming will put the tiller extension at a very extreme downward angle from the tiller to the lockbox. Far too much of an angle to allow the tiller to be adjusted if it would even lock at all. I'm sorry I didn't take pictures but the closest angle I could get has to be more than 30 degrees below horizontal...it was not even close.
>> 
>> I know using a lockbox should work as I've seen it (and used it) on other Rhodes 22s. In case it matters, my tiller extension mounts on top of the tiller. I've considered whether moving it to the bottom of the tiller would help, but even that wouldn't get the extension near horizontal and I'm sure that would make using the extension elsewhere around the cockpit impossible. I checked and the tiller was all the way "down" (perpendicular to the rudder post). I'm struggling to understand what could be different about the basic geometry of my cockpit sides, tiller and tiller extension that makes it seem impossible to use this lockbox.
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> 
>> Olivier
>> s/v Fretless
>> __________________________________________________
>> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
>> 
>> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
>> __________________________________________________
>> 
>> 
>> -----
>> No virus found in this message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>> Version: 2016.0.7690 / Virus Database: 4627/12726 - Release Date: 08/01/16
> -------------- next part --------------
> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> Name: may1504sail 001 - tiller closeup.jpg
> Type: image/jpeg
> Size: 369145 bytes
> Desc: not available
> URL: <http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20160801/90adce8d/attachment.jpg>
> __________________________________________________
> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
> 
> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> __________________________________________________


From chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com  Tue Aug  2 09:15:14 2016
From: chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com (chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com)
Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2016 09:15:14 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] our trip North in Tara (the new powerboat)
In-Reply-To: <auto-000443031987@smtp03.cluster1.echolabs.net>
References: <auto-000024185620@smtp01.cluster1.echolabs.net>
 <D12991F0-90BE-4668-8811-CF50AF4A6A9E@gmail.com>
 <auto-000443031987@smtp03.cluster1.echolabs.net>
Message-ID: <7D415A6D-8BD8-496C-BE52-3D6833920EA0@gmail.com>

Sounds like the like the perfect choice for you guys.  Enosis is up on lake Champlain and we should be sailing in perfect weather, other than not much wind. The high will be 82.  Sounds like exactly like the setting for your new boat.  Will put it to bed in Annapolis in a week the eventually make it back to the new boat in Fla. 

Chris
Enosis I & II

Sent from my iPad

> On Jul 28, 2016, at 8:26 PM, Mary Lou Troy <mtroy at atlanticbb.net> wrote:
> 
> HI Chris,
> Yes the Annapolis photos were taken from Port Annapolis Marina  on Back Creek so that is Watergate Village in the background.
> 
> The biggest transition so far has been that when the weather is perfect, we can't go sailing and that when the weather is not good for sailing, we can still get out on the water so we are thinking about weather differently. The nice thing about the Rosborough is that it's really not that much bigger. It's a little longer, wider and heavier but not so much that it feels radically different. Nonetheless it is a change and we are enjoying the new boat though we'll be glad when this heat wave breaks and we get out more.
> 
> Mary Lou
> 
> 
> At 08:06 PM 7/28/2016, you wrote:
>> Hey Mary Lou,
>> We're some of the pictures of your beautiful boat taken at Watergate Village Apartments on Back Creek?  That is where we lived and had our first Rhodes back in 1976.  I know what you are going through in the transition from a Rhodes and a bigger boat.  We are doing the same thing.
>> 
>> Chris & Alice Geankoplis
>> Enosis I & Enosis II
>> (still keeping the Rhodes)
>> 
>> Sent from my iPad
>> 
>> > On Jul 25, 2016, at 8:29 AM, Mary Lou Troy <mtroy at atlanticbb.net> wrote:
>> >
>> > Hi everyone,
>> > This would be a bit off topic except that we put almost everything we learned in years of cruising Fretless to use when we brought Tara North. We did learn a lot about about how the new boat handles and because her systems are a bit more complex than the simplicity we enjoyed on the R22, a bit about pumpouts and shorepower systems. Because it was blisteringly hot, it was more a marina to marina delivery than the cruise we imagined when we first planned it, but still we had a great time and thoroughly enjoyed ourselves.
>> >
>> > I took a lot of our photos and put them on to a public Facebook page. You don't need to be a member of Facebook to see the photos.
>> >
>> > it's here:   https://www.facebook.com/TaraTRosborough/
>> >
>> > If you want to see the entire narrative, start at the bottom and work your way up. The narrative is in the captions for the photos.
>> >
>> > Mary Lou
>> >
>> > Rosborough RF-246  Tara
>> > Rock Hall, MD
>> >
>> > ex R22 Fretless
>> >
>> > __________________________________________________
>> > To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
>> >
>> > For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
>> > __________________________________________________
>> __________________________________________________
>> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
>> 
>> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
>> __________________________________________________
>> 
>> 
>> -----
>> No virus found in this message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>> Version: 2016.0.7690 / Virus Database: 4627/12699 - Release Date: 07/28/16
> 
> __________________________________________________
> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
> 
> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> __________________________________________________

From ohecht at earthlink.net  Tue Aug  2 09:36:17 2016
From: ohecht at earthlink.net (The Hechts)
Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2016 09:36:17 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Installing tiller lock box in cockpit  coming
In-Reply-To: <B4FDEEEB-0CF0-4C33-B354-5E96A3B511BE@optonline.net>
References: <56A36215-F4AE-470E-8193-DD4071BC486C@earthlink.net>
 <auto-000444778783@smtp03.cluster1.echolabs.net>
 <B4FDEEEB-0CF0-4C33-B354-5E96A3B511BE@optonline.net>
Message-ID: <2FDF62C6-E86A-4963-80A4-6AAED9D09487@earthlink.net>

Thanks Bruce. I considered that but I don't think mine would work even reversed. I think the clip on the side rail will actually work but I just can't figure out what would make the geometry so different from the boat we rented from Stan a year ago, which was just a few years older than Fretless.   Unless the shape of the tiller itself or the design of the tiller/rudder interface changed, I can't think of what would allow it to work at a nearly horizontal angle on one not and not another...

> On Aug 2, 2016, at 9:05 AM, Bruce Greenwald <bgreenwald at optonline.net> wrote:
> 
> Olivier,
> 
> I had a similar problem with the lockbox on my new in 2014 boat.  The box just wouldn?t accommodate the angle although, curiously, the downward tiller angle differed depending on how it was rotated.  In any event, I pretty much solved the problem by simply turning the box upside down (so the small diameter is on top). I don?t know how yours is currently installed but the screw holes are symmetrical and so reversing the installation took all of five minutes and, as I said, made a big difference.
> 
> Bruce Greenwald
> S/V Ruach
> 
>> On Aug 1, 2016, at 7:35 PM, Mary Lou Troy <mtroy at atlanticbb.net> wrote:
>> 
>> Hi Olivier,
>> The original clips for the tiller on Fretless were (I assume) hand made by GB out of some sort of high density plastic to fit the diameter of that particular tiller extension. When they broke (sun exposure I think) we installed the closest clip we could find. It didn't fit exactly (as you know) so we wrapped the end of the tiller extension with rigging tape until it did. Here's a pic of Fred with Fretless sailing herself. You can see the rigging tape on the extension.
>> 
>> Good luck with finding a solution.
>> 
>> Mary Lou
>> 
>> At 04:05 PM 8/1/2016, you wrote:
>>> I'm trying to improve the tiller lock options for short times away from the tiller. Fretless has the clip on the side rail but I've found it doesn't hold that well. I've got it working for now but also wanted to try installing the lockbox in the cockpit coming as I've used on other boats.
>>> 
>>> I bought the Forespar lockbox from West Marine and took it out to the boat yesterday for test fitting. The problem is that, anywhere I could mount the lock box in the coming will put the tiller extension at a very extreme downward angle from the tiller to the lockbox. Far too much of an angle to allow the tiller to be adjusted if it would even lock at all. I'm sorry I didn't take pictures but the closest angle I could get has to be more than 30 degrees below horizontal...it was not even close.
>>> 
>>> I know using a lockbox should work as I've seen it (and used it) on other Rhodes 22s. In case it matters, my tiller extension mounts on top of the tiller. I've considered whether moving it to the bottom of the tiller would help, but even that wouldn't get the extension near horizontal and I'm sure that would make using the extension elsewhere around the cockpit impossible. I checked and the tiller was all the way "down" (perpendicular to the rudder post). I'm struggling to understand what could be different about the basic geometry of my cockpit sides, tiller and tiller extension that makes it seem impossible to use this lockbox.
>>> 
>>> Thanks,
>>> 
>>> Olivier
>>> s/v Fretless
>>> __________________________________________________
>>> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
>>> 
>>> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
>>> __________________________________________________
>>> 
>>> 
>>> -----
>>> No virus found in this message.
>>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>>> Version: 2016.0.7690 / Virus Database: 4627/12726 - Release Date: 08/01/16
>> -------------- next part --------------
>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
>> Name: may1504sail 001 - tiller closeup.jpg
>> Type: image/jpeg
>> Size: 369145 bytes
>> Desc: not available
>> URL: <http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20160801/90adce8d/attachment.jpg>
>> __________________________________________________
>> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
>> 
>> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
>> __________________________________________________
> 
> __________________________________________________
> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
> 
> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> __________________________________________________


From mtroy at atlanticbb.net  Tue Aug  2 09:47:14 2016
From: mtroy at atlanticbb.net (Mary Lou Troy)
Date: Tue, 02 Aug 2016 09:47:14 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] our trip North in Tara (the new powerboat)
In-Reply-To: <7D415A6D-8BD8-496C-BE52-3D6833920EA0@gmail.com>
References: <auto-000024185620@smtp01.cluster1.echolabs.net>
 <D12991F0-90BE-4668-8811-CF50AF4A6A9E@gmail.com>
 <auto-000443031987@smtp03.cluster1.echolabs.net>
 <7D415A6D-8BD8-496C-BE52-3D6833920EA0@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <auto-000028101224@smtp01.cluster1.echolabs.net>

Enjoy Champlain. One of my favorite places though I have never sailed 
there. My only excursions out on the lake have been the ferries. We 
used to go to Vermont for a week or so every summer.

Mary Lou


At 09:15 AM 8/2/2016, you wrote:
>Sounds like the like the perfect choice for you guys.  Enosis is up 
>on lake Champlain and we should be sailing in perfect weather, other 
>than not much wind. The high will be 82.  Sounds like exactly like 
>the setting for your new boat.  Will put it to bed in Annapolis in a 
>week the eventually make it back to the new boat in Fla.
>
>Chris
>Enosis I & II
>
>Sent from my iPad
>
> > On Jul 28, 2016, at 8:26 PM, Mary Lou Troy <mtroy at atlanticbb.net> wrote:
> >
> > HI Chris,
> > Yes the Annapolis photos were taken from Port Annapolis 
> Marina  on Back Creek so that is Watergate Village in the background.
> >
> > The biggest transition so far has been that when the weather is 
> perfect, we can't go sailing and that when the weather is not good 
> for sailing, we can still get out on the water so we are thinking 
> about weather differently. The nice thing about the Rosborough is 
> that it's really not that much bigger. It's a little longer, wider 
> and heavier but not so much that it feels radically different. 
> Nonetheless it is a change and we are enjoying the new boat though 
> we'll be glad when this heat wave breaks and we get out more.
> >
> > Mary Lou
> >
> >
> > At 08:06 PM 7/28/2016, you wrote:
> >> Hey Mary Lou,
> >> We're some of the pictures of your beautiful boat taken at 
> Watergate Village Apartments on Back Creek?  That is where we lived 
> and had our first Rhodes back in 1976.  I know what you are going 
> through in the transition from a Rhodes and a bigger boat.  We are 
> doing the same thing.
> >>
> >> Chris & Alice Geankoplis
> >> Enosis I & Enosis II
> >> (still keeping the Rhodes)
> >>
> >> Sent from my iPad
> >>
> >> > On Jul 25, 2016, at 8:29 AM, Mary Lou Troy <mtroy at atlanticbb.net> wrote:
> >> >
> >> > Hi everyone,
> >> > This would be a bit off topic except that we put almost 
> everything we learned in years of cruising Fretless to use when we 
> brought Tara North. We did learn a lot about about how the new boat 
> handles and because her systems are a bit more complex than the 
> simplicity we enjoyed on the R22, a bit about pumpouts and 
> shorepower systems. Because it was blisteringly hot, it was more a 
> marina to marina delivery than the cruise we imagined when we first 
> planned it, but still we had a great time and thoroughly enjoyed ourselves.
> >> >
> >> > I took a lot of our photos and put them on to a public 
> Facebook page. You don't need to be a member of Facebook to see the photos.
> >> >
> >> > it's here:   https://www.facebook.com/TaraTRosborough/
> >> >
> >> > If you want to see the entire narrative, start at the bottom 
> and work your way up. The narrative is in the captions for the photos.
> >> >
> >> > Mary Lou
> >> >
> >> > Rosborough RF-246  Tara
> >> > Rock Hall, MD
> >> >
> >> > ex R22 Fretless
> >> >
> >> > __________________________________________________
> >> > To subscribe/unsubscribe go to 
> http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
> >> >
> >> > For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and 
> archives go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> >> > __________________________________________________
> >> __________________________________________________
> >> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to 
> http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
> >>
> >> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and 
> archives go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> >> __________________________________________________
> >>
> >>
> >> -----
> >> No virus found in this message.
> >> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> >> Version: 2016.0.7690 / Virus Database: 4627/12699 - Release Date: 07/28/16
> >
> > __________________________________________________
> > To subscribe/unsubscribe go to 
> http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
> >
> > For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and 
> archives go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> > __________________________________________________
>__________________________________________________
>To subscribe/unsubscribe go to 
>http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
>
>For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and 
>archives go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
>__________________________________________________
>
>
>-----
>No virus found in this message.
>Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>Version: 2016.0.7690 / Virus Database: 4627/12731 - Release Date: 08/02/16


From sloopblueheron at gmail.com  Tue Aug  2 12:22:57 2016
From: sloopblueheron at gmail.com (Rick)
Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2016 12:22:57 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Installing tiller lock box in cockpit coming
In-Reply-To: <DM3PR18MB0731917A4A6672D00C210411D9040@DM3PR18MB0731.namprd18.prod.outlook.com>
References: <56A36215-F4AE-470E-8193-DD4071BC486C@earthlink.net>
 <DM3PR18MB0731917A4A6672D00C210411D9040@DM3PR18MB0731.namprd18.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CABkv36ZiGYno2uMGn9doUZxmBQPrCqVdEyBwRAKSGBUQWhdjqA@mail.gmail.com>

This is the cat's meow for flexibility and ease of use.

Rick

On Mon, Aug 1, 2016 at 7:51 PM, Charles Nieman <blue66corvette at hotmail.com>
wrote:

> Oliver
> I've got one of these and as a result I NEVER use the lock for the hiking
> extension. I'm pretty certain you can buy for less than what West Marine
> sells them for....or some people just run a "rope" across the cockpit
> looped around the tiller and that is free and holds just fine.
>
> http://www.westmarine.com/buy/davis-instruments--tiller-tamer--160739
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> Charles
> s/v Daydream

From daysails at aol.com  Wed Aug  3 07:40:15 2016
From: daysails at aol.com (daysails at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2016 07:40:15 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] our trip North in Tara (the new powerboat)
In-Reply-To: <7D415A6D-8BD8-496C-BE52-3D6833920EA0@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <15650343ac1-422-204f@webprd-a71.mail.aol.com>


Hi Chris,
 
I am currently in Plattsburgh NY (boatless) for a few days.  Are you near by?  I owe you that drink I promised you in Cabo.  Joe Riley s/v Second Wind  Lake Hartwell.
 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: chrisgeankoplis <chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com>
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Sent: Tue, Aug 2, 2016 9:15 am
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] our trip North in Tara (the new powerboat)

Sounds like the like the perfect choice for you guys.  Enosis is up on lake Champlain and we should be sailing in perfect weather, other than not much wind. The high will be 82.  Sounds like exactly like the setting for your new boat.  Will put it to bed in Annapolis in a week the eventually make it back to the new boat in Fla. 

Chris
Enosis I & II

Sent from my iPad

> On Jul 28, 2016, at 8:26 PM, Mary Lou Troy <mtroy at atlanticbb.net> wrote:
> 
> HI Chris,
> Yes the Annapolis photos were taken from Port Annapolis Marina  on Back Creek so that is Watergate Village in the background.
> 
> The biggest transition so far has been that when the weather is perfect, we can't go sailing and that when the weather is not good for sailing, we can still get out on the water so we are thinking about weather differently. The nice thing about the Rosborough is that it's really not that much bigger. It's a little longer, wider and heavier but not so much that it feels radically different. Nonetheless it is a change and we are enjoying the new boat though we'll be glad when this heat wave breaks and we get out more.
> 
> Mary Lou
> 
> 
> At 08:06 PM 7/28/2016, you wrote:
>> Hey Mary Lou,
>> We're some of the pictures of your beautiful boat taken at Watergate Village Apartments on Back Creek?  That is where we lived and had our first Rhodes back in 1976.  I know what you are going through in the transition from a Rhodes and a bigger boat.  We are doing the same thing.
>> 
>> Chris & Alice Geankoplis
>> Enosis I & Enosis II
>> (still keeping the Rhodes)
>> 
>> Sent from my iPad
>> 
>> > On Jul 25, 2016, at 8:29 AM, Mary Lou Troy <mtroy at atlanticbb.net> wrote:
>> >
>> > Hi everyone,
>> > This would be a bit off topic except that we put almost everything we learned in years of cruising Fretless to use when we brought Tara North. We did learn a lot about about how the new boat handles and because her systems are a bit more complex than the simplicity we enjoyed on the R22, a bit about pumpouts and shorepower systems. Because it was blisteringly hot, it was more a marina to marina delivery than the cruise we imagined when we first planned it, but still we had a great time and thoroughly enjoyed ourselves.
>> >
>> > I took a lot of our photos and put them on to a public Facebook page. You don't need to be a member of Facebook to see the photos.
>> >
>> > it's here:   https://www.facebook.com/TaraTRosborough/
>> >
>> > If you want to see the entire narrative, start at the bottom and work your way up. The narrative is in the captions for the photos.
>> >
>> > Mary Lou
>> >
>> > Rosborough RF-246  Tara
>> > Rock Hall, MD
>> >
>> > ex R22 Fretless
>> >
>> > __________________________________________________
>> > To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
>> >
>> > For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
>> > __________________________________________________
>> __________________________________________________
>> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
>> 
>> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
>> __________________________________________________
>> 
>> 
>> -----
>> No virus found in this message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>> Version: 2016.0.7690 / Virus Database: 4627/12699 - Release Date: 07/28/16
> 
> __________________________________________________
> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
> 
> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> __________________________________________________
__________________________________________________
To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list

For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
__________________________________________________


From Mark-Olson at verizon.net  Wed Aug  3 16:26:57 2016
From: Mark-Olson at verizon.net (Mark Olson)
Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2016 13:26:57 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Triad Trailer brakes and adjustments
In-Reply-To: <68a32b31d8054175ae09e5f15bddeadb@MARCONI.cc.w2k.vt.edu>
References: <002f01d1d235$1b995bb0$52cc1310$@ca>
 <CABkv36Yy+gYKEurYq5TUr8bW8jbUL8m3Wwm5y6R8ANOQDH_z8w@mail.gmail.com>
 <1467240569308-52203.post@n5.nabble.com>
 <auto-000429527099@smtp04.cluster1.echolabs.net>
 <CABkv36YO4dUcqW8d1=qARnj6TOzYDev7mnn7zU-B2ePiVTc-6w@mail.gmail.com>
 <1467986630333-52296.post@n5.nabble.com>
 <CAFhmpdEXZe9W4fAC3BUr1tEwUDxWwzvEyk4R6_ye2azqBouEHQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <1468093827673-52311.post@n5.nabble.com>
 <016701d1da3d$7032e960$5098bc20$@ebsmed.com>
 <68a32b31d8054175ae09e5f15bddeadb@MARCONI.cc.w2k.vt.edu>
Message-ID: <1470256017519-52415.post@n5.nabble.com>

I followed the measurements - with the correction and everything worked out
perfectly.  I did make one modification - I made the bunks swivel a few
degrees.  I did this by making a heavy bracket and making oversized holes. 
The trailer fit the boat perfectly; like a glove.  We hauled the boat from
Port Jefferson Long Island to Nyack New York and had no issues.  

It wasn't a long haul but there was a lot of traffic, lots of pot holes and
most of the roads don't have a place to pull over if you break down.  I was
also glad I put new brakes on.  We did need them a couple times.  I replaced
the hydraulic ones - I didn't do electric.

I made the bunks 140" long and didn't have any denting of the hull.

Thanks very much everyone for your help.

Mark Olson




--
View this message in context: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/Triad-Trailer-brakes-and-adjustments-tp52121p52415.html
Sent from the Rhodes 22 mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

From bobandkathyr22 at bellsouth.net  Thu Aug  4 13:56:23 2016
From: bobandkathyr22 at bellsouth.net (Rhodes22)
Date: Thu, 4 Aug 2016 13:56:23 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Installing tiller lock box in cockpit  coming
In-Reply-To: <B4FDEEEB-0CF0-4C33-B354-5E96A3B511BE@optonline.net>
References: <56A36215-F4AE-470E-8193-DD4071BC486C@earthlink.net>
 <auto-000444778783@smtp03.cluster1.echolabs.net>
 <B4FDEEEB-0CF0-4C33-B354-5E96A3B511BE@optonline.net>
Message-ID: <15F62EDF-D86A-40FB-AC40-B33CA05B0086@bellsouth.net>

Bruce:  Interesting!  Our boat came from the factory that way:  small diameter on top.  We were in Miami for medical issues for just over a week.  A tear nearly came to my eye as we looked over Biscayne Bay with several sailboat out having fun, while our R22 sits on the trailer waiting for hurricane season to pass and my medical issue solved!

Sail Happy!

Bob in Stuart. S/V "NoKaOi 3"

Sent from my iPad

> On Aug 2, 2016, at 9:05 AM, Bruce Greenwald <bgreenwald at optonline.net> wrote:
> 
> Olivier,
> 
> I had a similar problem with the lockbox on my new in 2014 boat.  The box just wouldn?t accommodate the angle although, curiously, the downward tiller angle differed depending on how it was rotated.  In any event, I pretty much solved the problem by simply turning the box upside down (so the small diameter is on top). I don?t know how yours is currently installed but the screw holes are symmetrical and so reversing the installation took all of five minutes and, as I said, made a big difference.
> 
> Bruce Greenwald
> S/V Ruach
> 
>> On Aug 1, 2016, at 7:35 PM, Mary Lou Troy <mtroy at atlanticbb.net> wrote:
>> 
>> Hi Olivier,
>> The original clips for the tiller on Fretless were (I assume) hand made by GB out of some sort of high density plastic to fit the diameter of that particular tiller extension. When they broke (sun exposure I think) we installed the closest clip we could find. It didn't fit exactly (as you know) so we wrapped the end of the tiller extension with rigging tape until it did. Here's a pic of Fred with Fretless sailing herself. You can see the rigging tape on the extension.
>> 
>> Good luck with finding a solution.
>> 
>> Mary Lou
>> 
>> At 04:05 PM 8/1/2016, you wrote:
>>> I'm trying to improve the tiller lock options for short times away from the tiller. Fretless has the clip on the side rail but I've found it doesn't hold that well. I've got it working for now but also wanted to try installing the lockbox in the cockpit coming as I've used on other boats.
>>> 
>>> I bought the Forespar lockbox from West Marine and took it out to the boat yesterday for test fitting. The problem is that, anywhere I could mount the lock box in the coming will put the tiller extension at a very extreme downward angle from the tiller to the lockbox. Far too much of an angle to allow the tiller to be adjusted if it would even lock at all. I'm sorry I didn't take pictures but the closest angle I could get has to be more than 30 degrees below horizontal...it was not even close.
>>> 
>>> I know using a lockbox should work as I've seen it (and used it) on other Rhodes 22s. In case it matters, my tiller extension mounts on top of the tiller. I've considered whether moving it to the bottom of the tiller would help, but even that wouldn't get the extension near horizontal and I'm sure that would make using the extension elsewhere around the cockpit impossible. I checked and the tiller was all the way "down" (perpendicular to the rudder post). I'm struggling to understand what could be different about the basic geometry of my cockpit sides, tiller and tiller extension that makes it seem impossible to use this lockbox.
>>> 
>>> Thanks,
>>> 
>>> Olivier
>>> s/v Fretless
>>> __________________________________________________
>>> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
>>> 
>>> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
>>> __________________________________________________
>>> 
>>> 
>>> -----
>>> No virus found in this message.
>>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>>> Version: 2016.0.7690 / Virus Database: 4627/12726 - Release Date: 08/01/16
>> -------------- next part --------------
>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
>> Name: may1504sail 001 - tiller closeup.jpg
>> Type: image/jpeg
>> Size: 369145 bytes
>> Desc: not available
>> URL: <http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20160801/90adce8d/attachment.jpg>
>> __________________________________________________
>> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
>> 
>> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
>> __________________________________________________
> 
> __________________________________________________
> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
> 
> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> __________________________________________________


From talbotpratt at gmail.com  Thu Aug  4 15:12:42 2016
From: talbotpratt at gmail.com (talbotpratt)
Date: Thu, 4 Aug 2016 12:12:42 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Triad Trailer brakes and adjustments
In-Reply-To: <1470256017519-52415.post@n5.nabble.com>
References: <CABkv36Yy+gYKEurYq5TUr8bW8jbUL8m3Wwm5y6R8ANOQDH_z8w@mail.gmail.com>
 <1467240569308-52203.post@n5.nabble.com>
 <auto-000429527099@smtp04.cluster1.echolabs.net>
 <CABkv36YO4dUcqW8d1=qARnj6TOzYDev7mnn7zU-B2ePiVTc-6w@mail.gmail.com>
 <1467986630333-52296.post@n5.nabble.com>
 <CAFhmpdEXZe9W4fAC3BUr1tEwUDxWwzvEyk4R6_ye2azqBouEHQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <1468093827673-52311.post@n5.nabble.com>
 <016701d1da3d$7032e960$5098bc20$@ebsmed.com>
 <68a32b31d8054175ae09e5f15bddeadb@MARCONI.cc.w2k.vt.edu>
 <1470256017519-52415.post@n5.nabble.com>
Message-ID: <CAFhmpdH0Hbfp+t51oQB6L+nOcweu1+2LJuFZ0PAYr17VcrHNyQ@mail.gmail.com>

Mark, I am impressed by your engineering skills. congratulations.   Plan to
circle back to this thread when my boat comes out of the water in order to
figure out how to support her better.
Talbot


Get a signature like this: Click here!
<http://ws-promos.appspot.com/r?rdata=eyJydXJsIjogImh0dHA6Ly93d3cud2lzZXN0YW1wLmNvbS9lbWFpbC1pbnN0YWxsP3dzX25jaWQ9NjcyMjk0MDA4JnV0bV9zb3VyY2U9ZXh0ZW5zaW9uJnV0bV9tZWRpdW09ZW1haWwmdXRtX2NhbXBhaWduPXByb21vXzU3MzI1Njg1NDg3Njk3OTIiLCAiZSI6ICI1NzMyNTY4NTQ4NzY5NzkyIn0=&u=308992673058389>

On Wed, Aug 3, 2016 at 4:26 PM Mark Olson [via Rhodes 22] <
ml-node+s1065344n52415h44 at n5.nabble.com> wrote:

> I followed the measurements - with the correction and everything worked
> out perfectly.  I did make one modification - I made the bunks swivel a few
> degrees.  I did this by making a heavy bracket and making oversized holes.
> The trailer fit the boat perfectly; like a glove.  We hauled the boat from
> Port Jefferson Long Island to Nyack New York and had no issues.
>
> It wasn't a long haul but there was a lot of traffic, lots of pot holes
> and most of the roads don't have a place to pull over if you break down.  I
> was also glad I put new brakes on.  We did need them a couple times.  I
> replaced the hydraulic ones - I didn't do electric.
>
> I made the bunks 140" long and didn't have any denting of the hull.
>
> Thanks very much everyone for your help.
>
> Mark Olson
>
>
> ------------------------------
> If you reply to this email, your message will be added to the discussion
> below:
>
> http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/Triad-Trailer-brakes-and-adjustments-tp52121p52415.html
> To unsubscribe from Triad Trailer brakes and adjustments, click here
> <http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/template/NamlServlet.jtp?macro=unsubscribe_by_code&node=52121&code=dGFsYm90cHJhdHRAZ21haWwuY29tfDUyMTIxfDEyMzczOTA3MDg=>
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>




-----
Talbot Pratt
S/V  "Remains Nameless"
Red bank, NJ  978 801 1602
--
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From chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com  Fri Aug  5 09:14:40 2016
From: chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com (chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com)
Date: Fri, 5 Aug 2016 09:14:40 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] our trip North in Tara (the new powerboat)
In-Reply-To: <15650343ac1-422-204f@webprd-a71.mail.aol.com>
References: <15650343ac1-422-204f@webprd-a71.mail.aol.com>
Message-ID: <30B92653-0506-40CB-8E3F-2E0531BB19CC@gmail.com>

Joe,
Call me! We are at Bluff Point Golf resort a few miles south. Small world. We are going out one last time this afternoon. Wanna go for a sail then we load Enosis on the trailer. 

Chris G. 541-941-6659. 

Sent from my iPad

> On Aug 3, 2016, at 7:40 AM, Sling via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi Chris,
> 
> I am currently in Plattsburgh NY (boatless) for a few days.  Are you near by?  I owe you that drink I promised you in Cabo.  Joe Riley s/v Second Wind  Lake Hartwell.
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: chrisgeankoplis <chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com>
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Sent: Tue, Aug 2, 2016 9:15 am
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] our trip North in Tara (the new powerboat)
> 
> Sounds like the like the perfect choice for you guys.  Enosis is up on lake Champlain and we should be sailing in perfect weather, other than not much wind. The high will be 82.  Sounds like exactly like the setting for your new boat.  Will put it to bed in Annapolis in a week the eventually make it back to the new boat in Fla. 
> 
> Chris
> Enosis I & II
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
>> On Jul 28, 2016, at 8:26 PM, Mary Lou Troy <mtroy at atlanticbb.net> wrote:
>> 
>> HI Chris,
>> Yes the Annapolis photos were taken from Port Annapolis Marina  on Back Creek so that is Watergate Village in the background.
>> 
>> The biggest transition so far has been that when the weather is perfect, we can't go sailing and that when the weather is not good for sailing, we can still get out on the water so we are thinking about weather differently. The nice thing about the Rosborough is that it's really not that much bigger. It's a little longer, wider and heavier but not so much that it feels radically different. Nonetheless it is a change and we are enjoying the new boat though we'll be glad when this heat wave breaks and we get out more.
>> 
>> Mary Lou
>> 
>> 
>> At 08:06 PM 7/28/2016, you wrote:
>>> Hey Mary Lou,
>>> We're some of the pictures of your beautiful boat taken at Watergate Village Apartments on Back Creek?  That is where we lived and had our first Rhodes back in 1976.  I know what you are going through in the transition from a Rhodes and a bigger boat.  We are doing the same thing.
>>> 
>>> Chris & Alice Geankoplis
>>> Enosis I & Enosis II
>>> (still keeping the Rhodes)
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPad
>>> 
>>>> On Jul 25, 2016, at 8:29 AM, Mary Lou Troy <mtroy at atlanticbb.net> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> Hi everyone,
>>>> This would be a bit off topic except that we put almost everything we learned in years of cruising Fretless to use when we brought Tara North. We did learn a lot about about how the new boat handles and because her systems are a bit more complex than the simplicity we enjoyed on the R22, a bit about pumpouts and shorepower systems. Because it was blisteringly hot, it was more a marina to marina delivery than the cruise we imagined when we first planned it, but still we had a great time and thoroughly enjoyed ourselves.
>>>> 
>>>> I took a lot of our photos and put them on to a public Facebook page. You don't need to be a member of Facebook to see the photos.
>>>> 
>>>> it's here:   https://www.facebook.com/TaraTRosborough/
>>>> 
>>>> If you want to see the entire narrative, start at the bottom and work your way up. The narrative is in the captions for the photos.
>>>> 
>>>> Mary Lou
>>>> 
>>>> Rosborough RF-246  Tara
>>>> Rock Hall, MD
>>>> 
>>>> ex R22 Fretless
>>>> 
>>>> __________________________________________________
>>>> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
>>>> 
>>>> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
>>>> __________________________________________________
>>> __________________________________________________
>>> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
>>> 
>>> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
>>> __________________________________________________
>>> 
>>> 
>>> -----
>>> No virus found in this message.
>>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>>> Version: 2016.0.7690 / Virus Database: 4627/12699 - Release Date: 07/28/16
>> 
>> __________________________________________________
>> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
>> 
>> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
>> __________________________________________________
> __________________________________________________
> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
> 
> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> __________________________________________________
> 
> __________________________________________________
> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
> 
> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> __________________________________________________

From chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com  Mon Aug  8 22:49:50 2016
From: chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com (Chris Geankoplis)
Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2016 22:49:50 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Enosis Looking for dock in Balt. Annapolis area
Message-ID: <CADNTwiVF1GKGuGqMS6WwJww1=6OWa4Ynm1EZ3wsU5dtO_EWOig@mail.gmail.com>

Enosis will be here on the bay for a month or two and I would like to
revisit some of my old favorite haunts from 20 years ago.  Can anyone
recommend a dock that I could keep my well traveled R22 during this time?
Less expensive is better.  I won't be living aboard, just taking it out for
day sails.  Oh, and now that we have real internet I promise to finish the
Travelogue For Mexico and other assorted areas.

Chris Geankoplis
Enosis

From chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com  Tue Aug  9 11:24:43 2016
From: chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com (Chris Geankoplis)
Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2016 11:24:43 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Enosis Looking for Dock Space
Message-ID: <CADNTwiX7puSA90EZhDcJdQ=7a07tJZ9uoNYASGdzSnVzfpSifA@mail.gmail.com>

Not sure if my previous message went through.  Enosis will be on the
Chesapeake Bay for a couple of months. Looking for a dock where I can keep
the boat.  The Glen Burnie area would be the best as we are staying near
Ellicott City.  If any Rhodies could recommend a marina or know of an
available dock for Enosis please let me know.  Being retired $ do count.
Don't need Electricity or water, just a safe place to keep in the water.

Thanks!

Chris & Alice Geankoplis
SV Enosis I

From jjcampjr at yahoo.com  Wed Aug 10 19:48:46 2016
From: jjcampjr at yahoo.com (Joe Camp)
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2016 23:48:46 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Thinking Ahead
References: <1801125827.14395278.1470872926762.JavaMail.yahoo.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1801125827.14395278.1470872926762.JavaMail.yahoo@mail.yahoo.com>

Hello fellow R-22 Sailors:
???? I have had problems with the pennant fro my centerboard lift:? Sometimes works. Other times, jams when lowering.? I want to take it all apart after the season, and I realized that in order to gain access to the blocks beneath the companionway step, I need to remove the entire setee.? The lazy fixer in me says that I should be able to make a cut that makes it easy to remove only the step portion to get to the enclosure for the blocks which is on the keel line.? Can I do this?? I have fished the list without success.? I can't believe that Stan would not have made this access easier... unless there were a reason not to do so.? Tell me what I don't know. 

???? Can I make this renegade cut, right about the edge of the cushion, and make the step into the cabin its own removable piece?? This way, I could see what's mucking up my block and tackle.? There is also a school of thought that? says, "you don't need the block & tackle, as the center board is only seventy pounds." WHAT ABOUT THAT?? Thanks y'all.

Joe Camp
s/v John Dawson
Bohemia River, MD


From blue66corvette at hotmail.com  Wed Aug 10 20:01:11 2016
From: blue66corvette at hotmail.com (Charles Nieman)
Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2016 00:01:11 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Thinking Ahead
In-Reply-To: <1801125827.14395278.1470872926762.JavaMail.yahoo@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1801125827.14395278.1470872926762.JavaMail.yahoo.ref@mail.yahoo.com>,
 <1801125827.14395278.1470872926762.JavaMail.yahoo@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <DM3PR18MB073187D1339CC24E3B1595B0D91E0@DM3PR18MB0731.namprd18.prod.outlook.com>

Joe
I have taken one apart and reassembled. I did not nake the cut because I didn't want a new joint. I don't think it would be a major problem, but you will probably need to add some additional support with two pieces here. 

Several have reassembled without the block & tackle (I think my current arrangement is a single line cause the pull is pretty substantial); at least that what I have read on the list over the years. 

Personally I wouldn't cut the settee but I would make the line a direct pull. 

Sent from my iPhone

Charles 
98 R 

> On Aug 10, 2016, at 6:48 PM, Joe Camp via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> 
> Hello fellow R-22 Sailors:
>      I have had problems with the pennant fro my centerboard lift:  Sometimes works. Other times, jams when lowering.  I want to take it all apart after the season, and I realized that in order to gain access to the blocks beneath the companionway step, I need to remove the entire setee.  The lazy fixer in me says that I should be able to make a cut that makes it easy to remove only the step portion to get to the enclosure for the blocks which is on the keel line.  Can I do this?  I have fished the list without success.  I can't believe that Stan would not have made this access easier... unless there were a reason not to do so.  Tell me what I don't know. 
> 
>      Can I make this renegade cut, right about the edge of the cushion, and make the step into the cabin its own removable piece?  This way, I could see what's mucking up my block and tackle.  There is also a school of thought that  says, "you don't need the block & tackle, as the center board is only seventy pounds." WHAT ABOUT THAT?  Thanks y'all.
> 
> Joe Camp
> s/v John Dawson
> Bohemia River, MD
> 
> __________________________________________________
> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
> 
> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> __________________________________________________

From stan at rhodes22.com  Wed Aug 10 20:17:11 2016
From: stan at rhodes22.com (Stan Spitzer)
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2016 20:17:11 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Thinking Ahead
In-Reply-To: <1801125827.14395278.1470872926762.JavaMail.yahoo@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1801125827.14395278.1470872926762.JavaMail.yahoo.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1801125827.14395278.1470872926762.JavaMail.yahoo@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <9a0f4e7b-b45f-2fa7-4276-fbc114dc90c6@rhodes22.com>


To Joe and co-early Rhodies, of course the Rhodes was not made in a 
day.   However, if I have really reached 90, then it has been a long 
time since the diamond board direct pull has been standard. Other than 
for a poor dead eel, to my knowledge no other diamond board pennant snag 
has been sighted.

New Rhodes anyone?  How long do you founding buyers expect me to wait.

ss



On 8/10/16 7:48 PM, Joe Camp via Rhodes22-list wrote:
> Hello fellow R-22 Sailors:
>       I have had problems with the pennant fro my centerboard lift:  Sometimes works. Other times, jams when lowering.  I want to take it all apart after the season, and I realized that in order to gain access to the blocks beneath the companionway step, I need to remove the entire setee.  The lazy fixer in me says that I should be able to make a cut that makes it easy to remove only the step portion to get to the enclosure for the blocks which is on the keel line.  Can I do this?  I have fished the list without success.  I can't believe that Stan would not have made this access easier... unless there were a reason not to do so.  Tell me what I don't know.
>
>       Can I make this renegade cut, right about the edge of the cushion, and make the step into the cabin its own removable piece?  This way, I could see what's mucking up my block and tackle.  There is also a school of thought that  says, "you don't need the block & tackle, as the center board is only seventy pounds." WHAT ABOUT THAT?  Thanks y'all.
>
> Joe Camp
> s/v John Dawson
> Bohemia River, MD
>
> __________________________________________________
> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
>
> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> __________________________________________________


From peter at sunnybeeches.com  Wed Aug 10 20:26:42 2016
From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg)
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2016 20:26:42 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Thinking Ahead
In-Reply-To: <1801125827.14395278.1470872926762.JavaMail.yahoo@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1801125827.14395278.1470872926762.JavaMail.yahoo.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1801125827.14395278.1470872926762.JavaMail.yahoo@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <9550A656-1CA6-4F96-95B7-9CCA7E1B64CF@sunnybeeches.com>

Having disassembled and reassembled the settee of my R22, it would be my opinion that the project you?re proposing is doable, but more trouble than it?s worth.  There are only a few screws holding the settee/step piece in place.  Once those are out, just lift the piece and carry it out the companionway.  It is easier if the pop-top is up. 

Peter Nyberg
Coventry, CT
s/v Silverheels (1986/2016)   


> On Aug 10, 2016, at 7:48 PM, Joe Camp via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> 
> Hello fellow R-22 Sailors:
>      I have had problems with the pennant fro my centerboard lift:  Sometimes works. Other times, jams when lowering.  I want to take it all apart after the season, and I realized that in order to gain access to the blocks beneath the companionway step, I need to remove the entire setee.  The lazy fixer in me says that I should be able to make a cut that makes it easy to remove only the step portion to get to the enclosure for the blocks which is on the keel line.  Can I do this?  I have fished the list without success.  I can't believe that Stan would not have made this access easier... unless there were a reason not to do so.  Tell me what I don't know. 
> 
>      Can I make this renegade cut, right about the edge of the cushion, and make the step into the cabin its own removable piece?  This way, I could see what's mucking up my block and tackle.  There is also a school of thought that  says, "you don't need the block & tackle, as the center board is only seventy pounds." WHAT ABOUT THAT?  Thanks y'all.
> 
> Joe Camp
> s/v John Dawson
> Bohemia River, MD
> 
> __________________________________________________
> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
> 
> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> __________________________________________________


From gstewart8 at cogeco.ca  Wed Aug 10 21:16:42 2016
From: gstewart8 at cogeco.ca (Graham Stewart)
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2016 21:16:42 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Thinking Ahead
In-Reply-To: <1801125827.14395278.1470872926762.JavaMail.yahoo@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1801125827.14395278.1470872926762.JavaMail.yahoo.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1801125827.14395278.1470872926762.JavaMail.yahoo@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <004d01d1f36e$04dc8cd0$0e95a670$@ca>

Joe:
I think it is more work to do what you suggest than it is to remove the setee seat. Ultimately you need to remove the setee seat but you also have to remove the center box over the keel and then most of the floor to get to the keel. You then need to remove the cap to get to the hardware blocks. It is a pain but not excessively time consuming or difficult. Removing the 40 odd bolts in the cap is the most tedious part. Hopefully the cap was not installed with sealant.

It sounds to me like one or more of the blocks has jammed. I wonder if the cap was installed with sealant in the past that is now clogging the blocks.
Graham

Graham Stewart
Agile. R22, 1976
Kingston Ontario Canada



-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Joe Camp via Rhodes22-list
Sent: August 10, 2016 7:49 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Thinking Ahead

Hello fellow R-22 Sailors:
     I have had problems with the pennant fro my centerboard lift:  Sometimes works. Other times, jams when lowering.  I want to take it all apart after the season, and I realized that in order to gain access to the blocks beneath the companionway step, I need to remove the entire setee.  The lazy fixer in me says that I should be able to make a cut that makes it easy to remove only the step portion to get to the enclosure for the blocks which is on the keel line.  Can I do this?  I have fished the list without success.  I can't believe that Stan would not have made this access easier... unless there were a reason not to do so.  Tell me what I don't know. 

     Can I make this renegade cut, right about the edge of the cushion, and make the step into the cabin its own removable piece?  This way, I could see what's mucking up my block and tackle.  There is also a school of thought that  says, "you don't need the block & tackle, as the center board is only seventy pounds." WHAT ABOUT THAT?  Thanks y'all.

Joe Camp
s/v John Dawson
Bohemia River, MD

__________________________________________________
To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list

For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list __________________________________________________


From gstewart8 at cogeco.ca  Wed Aug 10 21:26:04 2016
From: gstewart8 at cogeco.ca (Graham Stewart)
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2016 21:26:04 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Thinking Ahead
In-Reply-To: <DM3PR18MB073187D1339CC24E3B1595B0D91E0@DM3PR18MB0731.namprd18.prod.outlook.com>
References: <1801125827.14395278.1470872926762.JavaMail.yahoo.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1801125827.14395278.1470872926762.JavaMail.yahoo@mail.yahoo.com>
 <DM3PR18MB073187D1339CC24E3B1595B0D91E0@DM3PR18MB0731.namprd18.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <004e01d1f36f$5405ca00$fc115e00$@ca>

Joe:

As for the matter of using blocks or a direct line, I do not think the
direct line idea would work out. The line to the centerboard attaches about
a foot back from the pivot point and far forward of the tube leading to the
cockpit so the line would not be a direct path. I don't think it would be
possible to lift the keel unless the line is moved to the bottom end of the
centerboard and that would likely set up ongoing turbulence in the water. 

I tried to lift the centerboard directly before I reinstalled the cap and
found that it was very difficult and still did not retract the keel
sufficiently. The whole purpose of the multiple blocks is to compensate for
the weight and placement of the point of attachment of the line. I think you
will regret leaving the blocks off.


Graham Stewart
Agile. R22, 1976
Kingston Ontario Canada




-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of
Charles Nieman
Sent: August 10, 2016 8:01 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Thinking Ahead

Joe
I have taken one apart and reassembled. I did not nake the cut because I
didn't want a new joint. I don't think it would be a major problem, but you
will probably need to add some additional support with two pieces here. 

Several have reassembled without the block & tackle (I think my current
arrangement is a single line cause the pull is pretty substantial); at least
that what I have read on the list over the years. 

Personally I wouldn't cut the settee but I would make the line a direct
pull. 

Sent from my iPhone

Charles
98 R 

> On Aug 10, 2016, at 6:48 PM, Joe Camp via Rhodes22-list
<rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> 
> Hello fellow R-22 Sailors:
>      I have had problems with the pennant fro my centerboard lift:
Sometimes works. Other times, jams when lowering.  I want to take it all
apart after the season, and I realized that in order to gain access to the
blocks beneath the companionway step, I need to remove the entire setee.
The lazy fixer in me says that I should be able to make a cut that makes it
easy to remove only the step portion to get to the enclosure for the blocks
which is on the keel line.  Can I do this?  I have fished the list without
success.  I can't believe that Stan would not have made this access
easier... unless there were a reason not to do so.  Tell me what I don't
know. 
> 
>      Can I make this renegade cut, right about the edge of the cushion,
and make the step into the cabin its own removable piece?  This way, I could
see what's mucking up my block and tackle.  There is also a school of
thought that  says, "you don't need the block & tackle, as the center board
is only seventy pounds." WHAT ABOUT THAT?  Thanks y'all.
> 
> Joe Camp
> s/v John Dawson
> Bohemia River, MD
> 
> __________________________________________________
> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to 
> http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
> 
> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives 
> go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list 
> __________________________________________________
__________________________________________________
To subscribe/unsubscribe go to
http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list

For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go to
http://www.rhodes22.org/list
__________________________________________________


From bobandkathyr22 at bellsouth.net  Wed Aug 10 22:56:17 2016
From: bobandkathyr22 at bellsouth.net (Rhodes22)
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2016 22:56:17 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Thinking Ahead
In-Reply-To: <004e01d1f36f$5405ca00$fc115e00$@ca>
References: <1801125827.14395278.1470872926762.JavaMail.yahoo.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1801125827.14395278.1470872926762.JavaMail.yahoo@mail.yahoo.com>
 <DM3PR18MB073187D1339CC24E3B1595B0D91E0@DM3PR18MB0731.namprd18.prod.outlook.com>
 <004e01d1f36f$5405ca00$fc115e00$@ca>
Message-ID: <294D590B-33E0-4FFB-A40D-34E9C8015F0B@bellsouth.net>

Joe:  I consider myself a "two left handed mechanic;" however, I had no problem removing the settee and the cap to get to the pendent on my original 1986 R22.   I found it an educational experience, and one that served me well as the years passed.  My problem was that the directing blocks had worn and bent with the help of barnacles.  It was easy to replace the blocks and the pendent not to mention the opportunity to clean out the barnacle and other debris that had built up over the years in the centerboard trunk.   The job, I called it "an adventure" at the time, took about six hours at a very leisurely pace.  I did not write down the exact year that I performed this chore but I believe the boat was about 15 or 16 years young (Think Stan!!!{:>).  I believe it was about four to one  purchase on the pendent and my Admiral was very happy that she was able to raise the centerboard without much effort.  

And I should add, that we keep the boat in the water. 

Bob in Stuart on the2010  R22 "NoKaOi 3"

Sent from my iPad

> On Aug 10, 2016, at 9:26 PM, Graham Stewart <gstewart8 at cogeco.ca> wrote:
> 
> Joe:
> 
> As for the matter of using blocks or a direct line, I do not think the
> direct line idea would work out. The line to the centerboard attaches about
> a foot back from the pivot point and far forward of the tube leading to the
> cockpit so the line would not be a direct path. I don't think it would be
> possible to lift the keel unless the line is moved to the bottom end of the
> centerboard and that would likely set up ongoing turbulence in the water. 
> 
> I tried to lift the centerboard directly before I reinstalled the cap and
> found that it was very difficult and still did not retract the keel
> sufficiently. The whole purpose of the multiple blocks is to compensate for
> the weight and placement of the point of attachment earof the line. I think you
> will regret leaving the blocks off.
> 
> 
> Graham Stewart
> Agile. R22, 1976
> Kingston Ontario Canada
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of
> Charles Nieman
> Sent: August 10, 2016 8:01 PM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Thinking Ahead
> 
> Joe
> I have taken one apart and reassembled. I did not nake the cut because I
> didn't want a new joint. I don't think it would be a major problem, but you
> will probably need to add some additional support with two pieces here. 
> 
> Several have reassembled without the block & tackle (I think my current
> arrangement is a single line cause the pull is pretty substantial); at least
> that what I have read on the list over the years. 
> 
> Personally I wouldn't cut the settee but I would make the line a direct
> pull. 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> Charles
> 98 R 
> 
>>> On Aug 10, 2016, at 6:48 PM, Joe Camp via Rhodes22-list
>> <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>> 
>> Hello fellow R-22 Sailors:
>>     I have had problems with the pennant fro my centerboard lift:
> Sometimes works. Other times, jams when lowering.  I want to take it all
> apart after the season, and I realized that in order to gain access to the
> blocks beneath the companionway step, I need to remove the entire setee.
> The lazy fixer in me says that I should be able to make a cut that makes it
> easy to remove only the step portion to get to the enclosure for the blocks
> which is on the keel line.  Can I do this?  I have fished the list without
> success.  I can't believe that Stan would not have made this access
> easier... unless there were a reason not to do so.  Tell me what I don't
> know. 
>> 
>>     Can I make this renegade cut, right about the edge of the cushion,
> and make the step into the cabin its own removable piece?  This way, I could
> see what's mucking up my block and tackle.  There is also a school of
> thought that  says, "you don't need the block & tackle, as the center board
> is only seventy pounds." WHAT ABOUT THAT?  Thanks y'all.
>> 
>> Joe Camp
>> s/v John Dawson
>> Bohemia River, MD
>> 
>> __________________________________________________
>> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to 
>> http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
>> 
>> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives 
>> go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list 
>> __________________________________________________
> __________________________________________________
> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to
> http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
> 
> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go to
> http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> __________________________________________________
> 
> __________________________________________________
> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
> 
> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> __________________________________________________


From mweisner at ebsmed.com  Wed Aug 10 23:57:42 2016
From: mweisner at ebsmed.com (Michael Weisner)
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2016 23:57:42 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Thinking Ahead
In-Reply-To: <1801125827.14395278.1470872926762.JavaMail.yahoo@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1801125827.14395278.1470872926762.JavaMail.yahoo.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1801125827.14395278.1470872926762.JavaMail.yahoo@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <01f601d1f384$84fcaec0$8ef60c40$@ebsmed.com>

Joe,

Centerboards on boats moored or operated in salt water that have issues lowering are usually fouled by barnacles or other marine life.  To complete your season, try repeatedly lowering and raising the board, allowing its weight and motion to do the work to remove the obstructions.  It doesn't take many critters on the sides of the board to cause the effect that you may be experiencing.  DO NOT TRY TO REMOVE BARNACLES BY HAND FROM BELOW AS THEY ARE VERY SHARP!  If there are a lot of barnacles present, an 8-foot 1x4 piece of soft pine can be safely used to knock off the growth while standing alongside in shallow water.  This will leave the barnacle base which will need to be professionally removed by a boatyard.

During layup time (winter project), removing the settee is the easiest part of the process compared to removing the centerboard trunk cover (60+ bolts).  If the blocks are worn or damaged, they are available from Stan or Dwyer.  I always replace the pennant and gasket when servicing the centerboard. After cleaning out and sanding the trunk and board, be sure to paint the interior and the board with the highest quality multi-season bottom paint that you can afford, since you want it to last a long time.

I would not cut the step/settee as the support may be compromised, not to mention the esthetics of the joint placement.  It is also a difficult area within which to work.  Cutting to the companionway bulkhead without removing the step/settee is not simple due to accessibility.

Why would you change the block arrangement?  I have sailed a Rhodes 22 continuously since 1981 and have never experienced a failure of the centerboard blocks that prevented normal operation.

Lastly, if the board cannot be lowered, you can still sail.  If the board cannot be raised, be careful when recovering the boat on the trailer, permitting the board to be raised by the roller (do not force it to avoid damage).  The standard Triad trailer does not require that the board be fully retracted.

Mike
s/v Wind Lass ('91)
Nissequogue River, NY

-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Joe Camp via Rhodes22-list
Sent: Wednesday, August 10, 2016 7:49 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Thinking Ahead

Hello fellow R-22 Sailors:
     I have had problems with the pennant fro my centerboard lift:  Sometimes works. Other times, jams when lowering.  I want to take it all apart after the season, and I realized that in order to gain access to the blocks beneath the companionway step, I need to remove the entire setee.  The lazy fixer in me says that I should be able to make a cut that makes it easy to remove only the step portion to get to the enclosure for the blocks which is on the keel line.  Can I do this?  I have fished the list without success.  I can't believe that Stan would not have made this access easier... unless there were a reason not to do so.  Tell me what I don't know. 

     Can I make this renegade cut, right about the edge of the cushion, and make the step into the cabin its own removable piece?  This way, I could see what's mucking up my block and tackle.  There is also a school of thought that  says, "you don't need the block & tackle, as the center board is only seventy pounds." WHAT ABOUT THAT?  Thanks y'all.

Joe Camp
s/v John Dawson
Bohemia River, MD

__________________________________________________
To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list

For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list __________________________________________________


From chrissailorman at gmail.com  Thu Aug 11 00:07:05 2016
From: chrissailorman at gmail.com (chrissailorman at gmail.com)
Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2016 00:07:05 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Thinking Ahead
In-Reply-To: <1801125827.14395278.1470872926762.JavaMail.yahoo@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1801125827.14395278.1470872926762.JavaMail.yahoo.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1801125827.14395278.1470872926762.JavaMail.yahoo@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <2A5BDBEF-F82F-4B32-A51B-44EC67C8EC58@gmail.com>

Wouldn't do it. That joint is below waterline. Probably have a bad block. To properly seal after that cut may prove to be a problem. Take a day, beach the boat then have at it. I completely redid mine. Call me if you want some insight and advice. I may also still have detailed photos I could send you. 
Chris Greco
631-871-6055 

There is always just one way, the right way!

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 10, 2016, at 7:48 PM, Joe Camp via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> 
> Hello fellow R-22 Sailors:
>      I have had problems with the pennant fro my centerboard lift:  Sometimes works. Other times, jams when lowering.  I want to take it all apart after the season, and I realized that in order to gain access to the blocks beneath the companionway step, I need to remove the entire setee.  The lazy fixer in me says that I should be able to make a cut that makes it easy to remove only the step portion to get to the enclosure for the blocks which is on the keel line.  Can I do this?  I have fished the list without success.  I can't believe that Stan would not have made this access easier... unless there were a reason not to do so.  Tell me what I don't know. 
> 
>      Can I make this renegade cut, right about the edge of the cushion, and make the step into the cabin its own removable piece?  This way, I could see what's mucking up my block and tackle.  There is also a school of thought that  says, "you don't need the block & tackle, as the center board is only seventy pounds." WHAT ABOUT THAT?  Thanks y'all.
> 
> Joe Camp
> s/v John Dawson
> Bohemia River, MD
> 
> __________________________________________________
> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
> 
> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> __________________________________________________

From chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com  Fri Aug 12 10:51:58 2016
From: chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com (Chris Geankoplis)
Date: Fri, 12 Aug 2016 10:51:58 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Thinking Ahead
In-Reply-To: <1801125827.14395278.1470872926762.JavaMail.yahoo@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1801125827.14395278.1470872926762.JavaMail.yahoo.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1801125827.14395278.1470872926762.JavaMail.yahoo@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CADNTwiWojvWNJA8vO_4smSc-8hKxu7HAm0FQ-oXjZKsJCKH0pA@mail.gmail.com>

Hey Joe!
            No problem on the access to the centerboard cap.  Get a
cordless drill and remove the L-shaped portion of the settee top.  Takes
less than 5 minutes.
           Next, depending on configuration you will need to remove the
floor boards.  Again perhaps 20 minutes tops.  I've done this a number of
times and it doesn't take that much time.  Just remove the sections you
need in the center to access the cap.  If the cap is nuts and bolts it is
easy.  If it is rivets then you will need to drill them out and replace
with SS bolts, washers and nuts. This will give you access to the
centerboard and hardware from above while the boat is on the trailer.

Oh do this when the boat is out of the water. (grin)

Now if you are not inclined to do the above, several people (check
archives) got the boat off the trailer and on to stands so the centerboard
could be lowered all the way and then replaced the pennant and blocks and
any modifications to encourage the board to operate smoothly.  I've done it
both ways.  If you have a travel lift at your marina sometimes they will
let you hang it from one work day to the next and that is more than enough
time to do the job.  Good luck!

Chris Geankoplis
Enosis I

On Wed, Aug 10, 2016 at 7:48 PM, Joe Camp via Rhodes22-list <
rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:

> Hello fellow R-22 Sailors:
>      I have had problems with the pennant fro my centerboard lift:
> Sometimes works. Other times, jams when lowering.  I want to take it all
> apart after the season, and I realized that in order to gain access to the
> blocks beneath the companionway step, I need to remove the entire setee.
> The lazy fixer in me says that I should be able to make a cut that makes it
> easy to remove only the step portion to get to the enclosure for the blocks
> which is on the keel line.  Can I do this?  I have fished the list without
> success.  I can't believe that Stan would not have made this access
> easier... unless there were a reason not to do so.  Tell me what I don't
> know.
>
>      Can I make this renegade cut, right about the edge of the cushion,
> and make the step into the cabin its own removable piece?  This way, I
> could see what's mucking up my block and tackle.  There is also a school of
> thought that  says, "you don't need the block & tackle, as the center board
> is only seventy pounds." WHAT ABOUT THAT?  Thanks y'all.
>
> Joe Camp
> s/v John Dawson
> Bohemia River, MD
>
> __________________________________________________
> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/
> mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
>
> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go
> to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> __________________________________________________
>

From rbeytagh at gmail.com  Fri Aug 12 11:42:09 2016
From: rbeytagh at gmail.com (rbeytagh)
Date: Fri, 12 Aug 2016 08:42:09 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] R22 Delivery and New owner
Message-ID: <1471016529642-52431.post@n5.nabble.com>

I did post this on the R22 FB page but it was pointed out that not all the
R22 folks do FB so here it is again:

Phew a long trip! Just finished a 3100 ml round trip to pick-up a Rhodes in
Salem MA and deliver to the new owner, Chris Bedford at White Bear Lake just
outside Minneapolis MN. Delivery went smoothly except about $325 in road
tolls.

I'm sure you'll all welcome Chris into the Rhodes 22 fraternity

Pics: Picking the boat up in a windy Salem Harbor and launching at Great
White Lake
<http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/file/n52431/IMG_20160805_155722228-001.jpg> 
<http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/file/n52431/IMG_20160806_101418450_HDR.jpg> 
<http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/file/n52431/IMG_20160809_114527357.jpg> 
<http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/file/n52431/IMG_20160809_114548039.jpg> 





-----
Richard Beytagh
R22 1984
s/v Waif
--
View this message in context: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/R22-Delivery-and-New-owner-tp52431.html
Sent from the Rhodes 22 mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

From lsr3 at nyu.edu  Fri Aug 12 12:17:51 2016
From: lsr3 at nyu.edu (Lou Rosenberg)
Date: Fri, 12 Aug 2016 09:17:51 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Thinking Ahead
In-Reply-To: <1801125827.14395278.1470872926762.JavaMail.yahoo@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1801125827.14395278.1470872926762.JavaMail.yahoo@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1471018671288-52432.post@n5.nabble.com>

Joe,

I have an older 81 hull which I have made the cut in the setee.  I made it
aft of  the junction of the
lower bulkhead which has the hinged part to allow for more berth space. 
This allows me to take it out much easier to allow for servicing of the cb
trunk which I ve restored.  

Currently on the hard for season, painting above waterline soon.  I had
severe damage to my trunk insides when I bought the boat and had to cut out
sections to allow the board to move!  Terrible job, could nt do it again at
64.  

A reliable Rhodied from Minnesota helped me Roger Pihlaja.  His posts were
so informative, without his help I would've still been working on it.

feel free to contact me off list if you want pics of what I did.  ITs not a
difficult cut but it will not look the same again so be aware of that.
My cabin was not in great shape when I got the boat,  Ive done alot to it
over 12 yrs.

Lou
Miracles
Bklyn NY

lsr3 at nyu.edu



--
View this message in context: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/Thinking-Ahead-tp52421p52432.html
Sent from the Rhodes 22 mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

From bgreenwald at optonline.net  Sat Aug 13 20:51:24 2016
From: bgreenwald at optonline.net (BRUCE GREENWALD)
Date: Sat, 13 Aug 2016 20:51:24 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Rhodes 22 Winter Cover
In-Reply-To: <1446045863412-51184.post@n5.nabble.com>
References: <1446044541914-51183.post@n5.nabble.com>
 <1446045863412-51184.post@n5.nabble.com>
Message-ID: <63d2327d.6f280.156868824ff.Webtop.32@optonline.net>

Bob,


I have since gotten a quote from them and wonder if you can provide any 
more specifics about the adjustments you required. ?I intend to have a 
conversation and reference your boat (assuming that is OK with you but 
would like to make sure I raise all your issues. ?I am also getting a 
quote from Wm Mills in Greenport but am assuming they will be a lot more 
expensive. Thanks



Bruce Greenwald
S/V Ruach II


On Wed, Oct 28, 2015 at 11:24 AM, The Rhodes 22 Email List wrote:

> I bought a cover from this place last year for my newly recycled 
> Rhodes
> because I wanted a mast-up in the water cover made specifically for 
> this
> boat. They evidently did not have recent measurements because while I
> managed to cover the boat for the winter with what they sent, the bow 
> did
> not fit right and the stern was no where close to being right. But to 
> their
> credit, I talked to the owner at the Chicago Strictly Sail show and he 
> told
> me how to mark and cut the cover to show where I wanted it changed and 
> I
> sent the back 1/3 part back to them and they fixed it. At least I 
> think they
> did. I haven't put the cover on this year yet, but I'm assuming that 
> if he
> did what I asked it will fit better. The bow 1/3 I decided I could 
> make
> work, but not the way he envisioned. So, hopefully they learned a bit 
> from
> my adjustments and you will get a better fit. But at least they 
> guarantee
> the product and will adjust it if needed. You might mention the 
> problem I
> have with the bow pulpit and ask them to get measurements from you and 
> do a
> better job on that also. The cover is a great material and the way I 
> attach
> it works well. The boat stayed clean and was easy to access via the 
> zippers
> before I had to remove it. Expensive, yes. But worth it to me.
>
> Bob
>
>
>
> -----
> Bob Weiss
> Beach Spring
> 1998 Rhodes 22 Recycled in 2014
> --
> View this message in context: 
> http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/Rhodes-22-Winter-Cover-tp51183p51184.html
> Sent from the Rhodes 22 mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
> __________________________________________________
> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to 
> http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
>
> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives 
> go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> __________________________________________________
>

From bgreenwald at optonline.net  Sat Aug 13 21:38:41 2016
From: bgreenwald at optonline.net (Bruce Greenwald)
Date: Sat, 13 Aug 2016 21:38:41 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
Message-ID: <4C696FF9-F554-40BB-A536-7750AB6C7003@optonline.net>

Hi all,  There has been quite a bit written over the last few months about anchoring techniques but I haven?t seen a discussion of my particular question.  I have a 2013/14 model - my second - which is outfitted with two bow cleats, port and starboard, no chocks, and where in my last boat I had a cleat on the bow deck along the centerline I have what I can only describe as a u bolt which looks just like the bow lifting eye.  The GB explanation for this change is that it provides greater convenience and security in attaching the line from the mast crane when raising and lowering the mast.  My question is whether there is any way to run an anchor line other than simply tying it to one of the two bow cleats.  Note (if the picture attachment came thru) that the center eye is several inches aft of the bow cleats so if I run a line thru the eye before tying to a cleat the line would presumably be more on center though I don?t know what effect, if any, the force the eye would be running the line back to  a cleat.  Unless I am missing something,that setup would also require starting with the end of the anchor line in order to run it thru the eye which doesn?t seem very practical  Any thoughts? Thanks.

Bruce Greenwald 
S/V Ruach

From rweiss at siu.edu  Sat Aug 13 22:28:06 2016
From: rweiss at siu.edu (Robert Louis Weiss)
Date: Sun, 14 Aug 2016 02:28:06 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Rhodes 22 Winter Cover
In-Reply-To: <63d2327d.6f280.156868824ff.Webtop.32@optonline.net>
References: <1446044541914-51183.post@n5.nabble.com>
 <1446045863412-51184.post@n5.nabble.com>,
 <63d2327d.6f280.156868824ff.Webtop.32@optonline.net>
Message-ID: <DM3PR07MB21243184FC48C779AD864791C6110@DM3PR07MB2124.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>

Bruce,


You are welcome to reference my boat. I don't know if they made note of the changes I required or not, as I marked the back third of the cover that I returned to them for changes and they simply made those adjustments.


The middle section of my cover was fine. But I did take pictures of my "life rails" and sent them since I wanted to make sure they allowed for those which are an option.


The bow section of the cover was not perfect, but I didn't send it back for adjustments. If I were having them make a cover now, I would make sure they have accurate measurements for placement of the bow pulpit -- my cover does not have great fittings there. I did manage to get the cover on good enough, but it could be better. They also must not expect or understand the IMF, as the front section is constructed to be held up by the main halyard, which does not exist on the IMF. So the cover could have a better shape.


The back third of the cover is the one I returned with markings for them to correct. While it was long enough to cover the stern, the cutouts were not even close to fitting my boat. If they have notes on my changes, that might help, otherwise you may want to sent photos and measurements to ensure a better fit. I had them close up some cuts and add some others.


The good thing is they stand by their work and were willing to make changes that I marked on the cover. It just cost me a bit to send that back third to them.


Otherwise, I am pleased with the cover. The material is great and the large zippers make it easy for me to get onto my boat in the winter to check it.


Bob



Robert L Weiss Jr.
Director of Music
First United Methodist Carbondale, IL
Professor Emeritus, SIUC
________________________________
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of BRUCE GREENWALD <bgreenwald at optonline.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 13, 2016 7:51:24 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 mail list
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Rhodes 22 Winter Cover

Bob,


I have since gotten a quote from them and wonder if you can provide any
more specifics about the adjustments you required.  I intend to have a
conversation and reference your boat (assuming that is OK with you but
would like to make sure I raise all your issues.  I am also getting a
quote from Wm Mills in Greenport but am assuming they will be a lot more
expensive. Thanks



Bruce Greenwald
S/V Ruach II


On Wed, Oct 28, 2015 at 11:24 AM, The Rhodes 22 Email List wrote:

> I bought a cover from this place last year for my newly recycled
> Rhodes
> because I wanted a mast-up in the water cover made specifically for
> this
> boat. They evidently did not have recent measurements because while I
> managed to cover the boat for the winter with what they sent, the bow
> did
> not fit right and the stern was no where close to being right. But to
> their
> credit, I talked to the owner at the Chicago Strictly Sail show and he
> told
> me how to mark and cut the cover to show where I wanted it changed and
> I
> sent the back 1/3 part back to them and they fixed it. At least I
> think they
> did. I haven't put the cover on this year yet, but I'm assuming that
> if he
> did what I asked it will fit better. The bow 1/3 I decided I could
> make
> work, but not the way he envisioned. So, hopefully they learned a bit
> from
> my adjustments and you will get a better fit. But at least they
> guarantee
> the product and will adjust it if needed. You might mention the
> problem I
> have with the bow pulpit and ask them to get measurements from you and
> do a
> better job on that also. The cover is a great material and the way I
> attach
> it works well. The boat stayed clean and was easy to access via the
> zippers
> before I had to remove it. Expensive, yes. But worth it to me.
>
> Bob
>
>
>
> -----
> Bob Weiss
> Beach Spring
> 1998 Rhodes 22 Recycled in 2014
> --
> View this message in context:
> http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/Rhodes-22-Winter-Cover-tp51183p51184.html
> Sent from the Rhodes 22 mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
> __________________________________________________
> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to
> http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
>
> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives
> go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> __________________________________________________
>
__________________________________________________
To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list

For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
__________________________________________________

From dwbrad at gmail.com  Sun Aug 14 07:49:12 2016
From: dwbrad at gmail.com (David Bradley)
Date: Sun, 14 Aug 2016 07:49:12 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
In-Reply-To: <4C696FF9-F554-40BB-A536-7750AB6C7003@optonline.net>
References: <4C696FF9-F554-40BB-A536-7750AB6C7003@optonline.net>
Message-ID: <45B01B93-4AFC-40CB-9AD3-AE85C84B564A@gmail.com>

Bruce,

Sounds like a good set up for a mooring with two pendants.  For anchoring maybe you could have someone rig you a bridle. Take a look at Cyclone Mooring Pendants at West Marine for an example.  

Dave B

> On Aug 13, 2016, at 9:38 PM, Bruce Greenwald <bgreenwald at optonline.net> wrote:
> 
> Hi all,  There has been quite a bit written over the last few months about anchoring techniques but I haven?t seen a discussion of my particular question.  I have a 2013/14 model - my second - which is outfitted with two bow cleats, port and starboard, no chocks, and where in my last boat I had a cleat on the bow deck along the centerline I have what I can only describe as a u bolt which looks just like the bow lifting eye.  The GB explanation for this change is that it provides greater convenience and security in attaching the line from the mast crane when raising and lowering the mast.  My question is whether there is any way to run an anchor line other than simply tying it to one of the two bow cleats.  Note (if the picture attachment came thru) that the center eye is several inches aft of the bow cleats so if I run a line thru the eye before tying to a cleat the line would presumably be more on center though I don?t know what effect, if any, the force the eye would be running the line back to  a cleat.  Unless I am missing something,that setup would also require starting with the end of the anchor line in order to run it thru the eye which doesn?t seem very practical  Any thoughts? Thanks.
> 
> Bruce Greenwald 
> S/V Ruach
> __________________________________________________
> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
> 
> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> __________________________________________________

From bgreenwald at optonline.net  Sun Aug 14 10:53:34 2016
From: bgreenwald at optonline.net (Optonline)
Date: Sun, 14 Aug 2016 10:53:34 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Rhodes 22 Winter Cover
In-Reply-To: <DM3PR07MB21243184FC48C779AD864791C6110@DM3PR07MB2124.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
References: <1446044541914-51183.post@n5.nabble.com>
 <1446045863412-51184.post@n5.nabble.com>
 <63d2327d.6f280.156868824ff.Webtop.32@optonline.net>
 <DM3PR07MB21243184FC48C779AD864791C6110@DM3PR07MB2124.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <1505B593-B1C6-4D06-BBE8-617C811C4C10@optonline.net>

Bob,
Thanks.  Do you raise the boom to the mast before putting the cover on or leave it down for support of the cover? I actually have an extra halyard - I had it put on in case I decided to get a UPS - I wonder if that would serve the same purpose here as the absent main halyard?

Bruce

> On Aug 13, 2016, at 10:28 PM, Robert Louis Weiss <rweiss at siu.edu> wrote:
> 
> Bruce,
> 
> 
> You are welcome to reference my boat. I don't know if they made note of the changes I required or not, as I marked the back third of the cover that I returned to them for changes and they simply made those adjustments.
> 
> 
> The middle section of my cover was fine. But I did take pictures of my "life rails" and sent them since I wanted to make sure they allowed for those which are an option.
> 
> 
> The bow section of the cover was not perfect, but I didn't send it back for adjustments. If I were having them make a cover now, I would make sure they have accurate measurements for placement of the bow pulpit -- my cover does not have great fittings there. I did manage to get the cover on good enough, but it could be better. They also must not expect or understand the IMF, as the front section is constructed to be held up by the main halyard, which does not exist on the IMF. So the cover could have a better shape.
> 
> 
> The back third of the cover is the one I returned with markings for them to correct. While it was long enough to cover the stern, the cutouts were not even close to fitting my boat. If they have notes on my changes, that might help, otherwise you may want to sent photos and measurements to ensure a better fit. I had them close up some cuts and add some others.
> 
> 
> The good thing is they stand by their work and were willing to make changes that I marked on the cover. It just cost me a bit to send that back third to them.
> 
> 
> Otherwise, I am pleased with the cover. The material is great and the large zippers make it easy for me to get onto my boat in the winter to check it.
> 
> 
> Bob
> 
> 
> 
> Robert L Weiss Jr.
> Director of Music
> First United Methodist Carbondale, IL
> Professor Emeritus, SIUC
> ________________________________
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of BRUCE GREENWALD <bgreenwald at optonline.net>
> Sent: Saturday, August 13, 2016 7:51:24 PM
> To: The Rhodes 22 mail list
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Rhodes 22 Winter Cover
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> I have since gotten a quote from them and wonder if you can provide any
> more specifics about the adjustments you required.  I intend to have a


From rweiss at siu.edu  Sun Aug 14 12:29:57 2016
From: rweiss at siu.edu (Robert Louis Weiss)
Date: Sun, 14 Aug 2016 16:29:57 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Rhodes 22 Winter Cover
In-Reply-To: <1505B593-B1C6-4D06-BBE8-617C811C4C10@optonline.net>
References: <1446044541914-51183.post@n5.nabble.com>
 <1446045863412-51184.post@n5.nabble.com>
 <63d2327d.6f280.156868824ff.Webtop.32@optonline.net>
 <DM3PR07MB21243184FC48C779AD864791C6110@DM3PR07MB2124.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>,
 <1505B593-B1C6-4D06-BBE8-617C811C4C10@optonline.net>
Message-ID: <6B78630C-0580-407D-A19E-D2515F0C557E@siu.edu>

The boom stays down to support the middle section of the cover. Sounds like your halyard would work just fine. 

Bob 

Robert Weiss
Professor/Director Emeritus, SIUC
Director of Music, 1st U. Methodist Carbondale IL

> On Aug 14, 2016, at 11:09 AM, Optonline <bgreenwald at optonline.net> wrote:
> 
> Bob,
> Thanks.  Do you raise the boom to the mast before putting the cover on or leave it down for support of the cover? I actually have an extra halyard - I had it put on in case I decided to get a UPS - I wonder if that would serve the same purpose here as the absent main halyard?
> 
> Bruce
> 
>> On Aug 13, 2016, at 10:28 PM, Robert Louis Weiss <rweiss at siu.edu> wrote:
>> 
>> Bruce,
>> 
>> 
>> You are welcome to reference my boat. I don't know if they made note of the changes I required or not, as I marked the back third of the cover that I returned to them for changes and they simply made those adjustments.
>> 
>> 
>> The middle section of my cover was fine. But I did take pictures of my "life rails" and sent them since I wanted to make sure they allowed for those which are an option.
>> 
>> 
>> The bow section of the cover was not perfect, but I didn't send it back for adjustments. If I were having them make a cover now, I would make sure they have accurate measurements for placement of the bow pulpit -- my cover does not have great fittings there. I did manage to get the cover on good enough, but it could be better. They also must not expect or understand the IMF, as the front section is constructed to be held up by the main halyard, which does not exist on the IMF. So the cover could have a better shape.
>> 
>> 
>> The back third of the cover is the one I returned with markings for them to correct. While it was long enough to cover the stern, the cutouts were not even close to fitting my boat. If they have notes on my changes, that might help, otherwise you may want to sent photos and measurements to ensure a better fit. I had them close up some cuts and add some others.
>> 
>> 
>> The good thing is they stand by their work and were willing to make changes that I marked on the cover. It just cost me a bit to send that back third to them.
>> 
>> 
>> Otherwise, I am pleased with the cover. The material is great and the large zippers make it easy for me to get onto my boat in the winter to check it.
>> 
>> 
>> Bob
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Robert L Weiss Jr.
>> Director of Music
>> First United Methodist Carbondale, IL
>> Professor Emeritus, SIUC
>> ________________________________
>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of BRUCE GREENWALD <bgreenwald at optonline.net>
>> Sent: Saturday, August 13, 2016 7:51:24 PM
>> To: The Rhodes 22 mail list
>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Rhodes 22 Winter Cover
>> 
>> Bob,
>> 
>> 
>> I have since gotten a quote from them and wonder if you can provide any
>> more specifics about the adjustments you required.  I intend to have a
> 
> __________________________________________________
> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
> 
> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> __________________________________________________

From sloopblueheron at gmail.com  Sun Aug 14 13:18:08 2016
From: sloopblueheron at gmail.com (Rick)
Date: Sun, 14 Aug 2016 13:18:08 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
In-Reply-To: <4C696FF9-F554-40BB-A536-7750AB6C7003@optonline.net>
References: <4C696FF9-F554-40BB-A536-7750AB6C7003@optonline.net>
Message-ID: <CABkv36bZ5L9PQZz+x9SfDNfMjF7ai_=qzGCh2agGKvUjC7b8gQ@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Bruce,

There's no difference between tying the anchor rode to an edge mounted
cleat and running it through an edge mounted choc.

I don't get the GB explanation for your U bolt as my cleat works just fine
for the hoist.  What I don't like about my cleat is that it sometimes
catches the jib sheet when coming about.  If your edge mounted cleats are
less likely to do that, that's a plus.

Rick

On Sat, Aug 13, 2016 at 9:38 PM, Bruce Greenwald <bgreenwald at optonline.net>
wrote:

> Hi all,  There has been quite a bit written over the last few months about
> anchoring techniques but I haven?t seen a discussion of my particular
> question.  I have a 2013/14 model - my second - which is outfitted with two
> bow cleats, port and starboard, no chocks, and where in my last boat I had
> a cleat on the bow deck along the centerline I have what I can only
> describe as a u bolt which looks just like the bow lifting eye.  The GB
> explanation for this change is that it provides greater convenience and
> security in attaching the line from the mast crane when raising and
> lowering the mast.  My question is whether there is any way to run an
> anchor line other than simply tying it to one of the two bow cleats.  Note
> (if the picture attachment came thru) that the center eye is several inches
> aft of the bow cleats so if I run a line thru the eye before tying to a
> cleat the line would presumably be more on center though I don?t know what
> effect, if any, the force the eye would be running the line back to  a
> cleat.  Unless I am missing something,that setup would also require
> starting with the end of the anchor line in order to run it thru the eye
> which doesn?t seem very practical  Any thoughts? Thanks.
>
> Bruce Greenwald
> S/V Ruach
> __________________________________________________
> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/
> mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
>
> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go
> to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> __________________________________________________
>

From stan at rhodes22.com  Sun Aug 14 14:21:38 2016
From: stan at rhodes22.com (Stan Spitzer)
Date: Sun, 14 Aug 2016 14:21:38 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
In-Reply-To: <CABkv36bZ5L9PQZz+x9SfDNfMjF7ai_=qzGCh2agGKvUjC7b8gQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <4C696FF9-F554-40BB-A536-7750AB6C7003@optonline.net>
 <CABkv36bZ5L9PQZz+x9SfDNfMjF7ai_=qzGCh2agGKvUjC7b8gQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <5c28fa80-b00e-15fa-3808-afb8c2200559@rhodes22.com>

SINCE GB GETS ITS UPGRADING FOR NEW AND RECYCLED BOATS FROM THE LIST:


On 8/14/16 1:18 PM, Rick wrote:
> Hi Bruce,
>
> There's no difference between tying the anchor rode to an edge mounted
> cleat and running it through an edge mounted choc.
FOR DOCKING LINES THE DOUBLE EDGE MOUNTED DOCKING CLEATS DO AWAY WITH 
THE NEED FOR CHOCKS
>   What I don't like about my cleat is that it sometimes
> catches the jib sheet when coming about.
THE BOW EYE FOR THE MAST HOIST ON THE DECK CENTER LINE CAN NOW NEVER 
CATCH THE JIB SHEETS
> If your edge mounted cleats are
> less likely to do that, that's a plus.
>
> Rick
>
> On Sat, Aug 13, 2016 at 9:38 PM, Bruce Greenwald <bgreenwald at optonline.net>
> wrote:
>
>> Hi all,  There has been quite a bit written over the last few months about
>> anchoring techniques but I haven?t seen a discussion of my particular
>> question.  I have a 2013/14 model - my second - which is outfitted with two
>> bow cleats, port and starboard, no chocks, and where in my last boat I had
>> a cleat on the bow deck along the centerline I have what I can only
>> describe as a u bolt which looks just like the bow lifting eye.  The GB
>> explanation for this change is that it provides greater convenience and
>> security in attaching the line from the mast crane when raising and
>> lowering the mast.  My question is whether there is any way to run an
>> anchor line other than simply tying it to one of the two bow cleats.  Note
>> (if the picture attachment came thru) that the center eye is several inches
>> aft of the bow cleats so if I run a line thru the eye before tying to a
>> cleat the line would presumably be more on center though I don?t know what
>> effect, if any, the force the eye would be running the line back to  a
>> cleat.  Unless I am missing something,that setup would also require
>> starting with the end of the anchor line in order to run it thru the eye
>> which doesn?t seem very practical  Any thoughts? Thanks.
>>
>> Bruce Greenwald
>> S/V Ruach
>> __________________________________________________
>> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/
>> mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
>>
>> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go
>> to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
>> __________________________________________________
>>
> __________________________________________________
> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
>
> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> __________________________________________________


From watermusic38 at yahoo.com  Sun Aug 14 14:46:31 2016
From: watermusic38 at yahoo.com (Elle)
Date: Sun, 14 Aug 2016 14:46:31 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Enosis Looking for Dock Space
In-Reply-To: <CADNTwiX7puSA90EZhDcJdQ=7a07tJZ9uoNYASGdzSnVzfpSifA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CADNTwiX7puSA90EZhDcJdQ=7a07tJZ9uoNYASGdzSnVzfpSifA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <E3A96AB1-D2D7-45FC-A877-760172CE5575@yahoo.com>

Hey , Chris,

It's not near your intended destination, but if you have need of dockage on the lower Potomac, let me know.

Elle
Northern Neck Images


> On Aug 9, 2016, at 11:24 AM, Chris Geankoplis <chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Not sure if my previous message went through.  Enosis will be on the
> Chesapeake Bay for a couple of months. Looking for a dock where I can keep
> the boat.  The Glen Burnie area would be the best as we are staying near
> Ellicott City.  If any Rhodies could recommend a marina or know of an
> available dock for Enosis please let me know.  Being retired $ do count.
> Don't need Electricity or water, just a safe place to keep in the water.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Chris & Alice Geankoplis
> SV Enosis I
> __________________________________________________
> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
> 
> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> __________________________________________________


From bgreenwald at optonline.net  Sun Aug 14 17:21:17 2016
From: bgreenwald at optonline.net (Optonline)
Date: Sun, 14 Aug 2016 17:21:17 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
In-Reply-To: <45B01B93-4AFC-40CB-9AD3-AE85C84B564A@gmail.com>
References: <4C696FF9-F554-40BB-A536-7750AB6C7003@optonline.net>
 <45B01B93-4AFC-40CB-9AD3-AE85C84B564A@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <24745588-65DA-429E-A7E4-7C68A0E6866A@optonline.net>

Dave, the bridle is similar to my mooring bridle when the boat was in Greenwich - I'm sorry I don't still have it.  The cyclone pendant is an interesting idea though way overkill for this boat.  I'm sure I could have something si,liar on a smaller scale  made up - how would I attach the anchor line?  I imagine using that approach would reduce the tendency of the boat to hunt and keep it on center with the anchor. Since I don't really plan to anchor in anything other than mild conditions maybe it doesn't really matter.

Rick, when I had chocks I ran the mooring bridle thru them and attached each end of the bridle to the center cleat.  The few times I anchored, as I recall, I just ran the anchor line directly to the cleat.  

And, as Stan pointed out, the issue of the sheets hanging up on the bow cleat is a problem of the past.

Bruce

> On Aug 14, 2016, at 7:49 AM, David Bradley <dwbrad at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Bruce,
> 
> Sounds like a good set up for a mooring with two pendants.  For anchoring maybe you could have someone rig you a bridle. Take a look at Cyclone Mooring Pendants at West Marine for an example.  
> 
> Dave B
> 
>> On Aug 13, 2016, at 9:38 PM, Bruce Greenwald <bgreenwald at optonline.net> wrote:
>> 
>> Hi all,  There has been quite a bit written over the last few months about anchoring techniques but I haven?t seen a discussion of my particular question.  I have a 2013/14 model - my second - which is outfitted with two bow cleats, port and starboard, no chocks, and where in my last boat I had a cleat on the bow deck along the centerline I have what I can only describe as a u bolt which looks just like the bow lifting eye.  The GB explanation for this change is that it provides greater convenience and security in attaching the line from the mast crane when raising and lowering the mast.  My question is whether there is any way to run an anchor line other than simply tying it to one of the two bow cleats.  Note (if the picture attachment came thru) that the center eye is several inches aft of the bow cleats so if I run a line thru the eye before tying to a cleat the line would presumably be more on center though I don?t know what effect, if any, the force the eye would be running the line back to  a cleat.  Unless I am missing something,that setup would also require starting with the end of the anchor line in order to run it thru the eye which doesn?t seem very practical  Any thoughts? Thanks.
>> 
>> Bruce Greenwald 
>> S/V Ruach
>> __________________________________________________
>> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
>> 
>> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
>> __________________________________________________
> __________________________________________________
> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
> 
> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> __________________________________________________


From dwbrad at gmail.com  Sun Aug 14 20:38:09 2016
From: dwbrad at gmail.com (David Bradley)
Date: Sun, 14 Aug 2016 20:38:09 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
In-Reply-To: <24745588-65DA-429E-A7E4-7C68A0E6866A@optonline.net>
References: <4C696FF9-F554-40BB-A536-7750AB6C7003@optonline.net>
 <45B01B93-4AFC-40CB-9AD3-AE85C84B564A@gmail.com>
 <24745588-65DA-429E-A7E4-7C68A0E6866A@optonline.net>
Message-ID: <4CA1A85C-8DC5-406F-BA59-487275091001@gmail.com>

I?m sure you could have something simple rigged from a heavier dock line with loops on each end.  West Marine has rigging service but your local sail shop would too.  

If you are going to be at anchor for a decent period of time you could set the anchor by tying to a bow cleat, then tie a loop in the anchor rode and running the bridle through it.  You could also tie the rode to the eye bolt as a secondary point.  

For a short anchor on a calm day in an open space, I?d still just tie off the stern, but I know others on the list frown on that practice.  I?m sure you?d be fine on a calm day just tiring off on one of your bow cleats.

Happy sailing.  I?ll look for you anchored on the Sound.

Dave

> On Aug 14, 2016, at 5:21 PM, Optonline <bgreenwald at optonline.net> wrote:
> 
> Dave, the bridle is similar to my mooring bridle when the boat was in Greenwich - I'm sorry I don't still have it.  The cyclone pendant is an interesting idea though way overkill for this boat.  I'm sure I could have something si,liar on a smaller scale  made up - how would I attach the anchor line?  I imagine using that approach would reduce the tendency of the boat to hunt and keep it on center with the anchor. Since I don't really plan to anchor in anything other than mild conditions maybe it doesn't really matter.
> 
> Rick, when I had chocks I ran the mooring bridle thru them and attached each end of the bridle to the center cleat.  The few times I anchored, as I recall, I just ran the anchor line directly to the cleat.  
> 
> And, as Stan pointed out, the issue of the sheets hanging up on the bow cleat is a problem of the past.
> 
> Bruce
> 
>> On Aug 14, 2016, at 7:49 AM, David Bradley <dwbrad at gmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Bruce,
>> 
>> Sounds like a good set up for a mooring with two pendants.  For anchoring maybe you could have someone rig you a bridle. Take a look at Cyclone Mooring Pendants at West Marine for an example.  
>> 
>> Dave B
>> 
>>> On Aug 13, 2016, at 9:38 PM, Bruce Greenwald <bgreenwald at optonline.net> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hi all,  There has been quite a bit written over the last few months about anchoring techniques but I haven?t seen a discussion of my particular question.  I have a 2013/14 model - my second - which is outfitted with two bow cleats, port and starboard, no chocks, and where in my last boat I had a cleat on the bow deck along the centerline I have what I can only describe as a u bolt which looks just like the bow lifting eye.  The GB explanation for this change is that it provides greater convenience and security in attaching the line from the mast crane when raising and lowering the mast.  My question is whether there is any way to run an anchor line other than simply tying it to one of the two bow cleats.  Note (if the picture attachment came thru) that the center eye is several inches aft of the bow cleats so if I run a line thru the eye before tying to a cleat the line would presumably be more on center though I don?t know what effect, if any, the force the eye would be running the line back to  a cleat.  Unless I am missing something,that setup would also require starting with the end of the anchor line in order to run it thru the eye which doesn?t seem very practical  Any thoughts? Thanks.
>>> 
>>> Bruce Greenwald 
>>> S/V Ruach
>>> __________________________________________________
>>> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
>>> 
>>> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
>>> __________________________________________________
>> __________________________________________________
>> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
>> 
>> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
>> __________________________________________________
> 
> __________________________________________________
> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
> 
> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> __________________________________________________


From sloopblueheron at gmail.com  Mon Aug 15 10:26:20 2016
From: sloopblueheron at gmail.com (Rick)
Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2016 10:26:20 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
In-Reply-To: <4CA1A85C-8DC5-406F-BA59-487275091001@gmail.com>
References: <4C696FF9-F554-40BB-A536-7750AB6C7003@optonline.net>
 <45B01B93-4AFC-40CB-9AD3-AE85C84B564A@gmail.com>
 <24745588-65DA-429E-A7E4-7C68A0E6866A@optonline.net>
 <4CA1A85C-8DC5-406F-BA59-487275091001@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CABkv36ZPPOT3gsx_wk=z5MFmNU0icjrPDfOVtEmqDByxHdefUA@mail.gmail.com>

For an overnight anchoring or mooring, I run the anchor line through the
bow u-bolt and tie with a half hitch, leaving a long bitter end.  Then tie
the bitter end off securely to the bow cleat.  This reduces marring but
chaffing at the bolt is can be too much for any time longer than overnight.

Rick

On Sun, Aug 14, 2016 at 8:38 PM, David Bradley <dwbrad at gmail.com> wrote:

> I?m sure you could have something simple rigged from a heavier dock line
> with loops on each end.  West Marine has rigging service but your local
> sail shop would too.
>
> If you are going to be at anchor for a decent period of time you could set
> the anchor by tying to a bow cleat, then tie a loop in the anchor rode and
> running the bridle through it.  You could also tie the rode to the eye bolt
> as a secondary point.
>
> For a short anchor on a calm day in an open space, I?d still just tie off
> the stern, but I know others on the list frown on that practice.  I?m sure
> you?d be fine on a calm day just tiring off on one of your bow cleats.
>
> Happy sailing.  I?ll look for you anchored on the Sound.
>
> Dave
>
> > On Aug 14, 2016, at 5:21 PM, Optonline <bgreenwald at optonline.net> wrote:
> >
> > Dave, the bridle is similar to my mooring bridle when the boat was in
> Greenwich - I'm sorry I don't still have it.  The cyclone pendant is an
> interesting idea though way overkill for this boat.  I'm sure I could have
> something si,liar on a smaller scale  made up - how would I attach the
> anchor line?  I imagine using that approach would reduce the tendency of
> the boat to hunt and keep it on center with the anchor. Since I don't
> really plan to anchor in anything other than mild conditions maybe it
> doesn't really matter.
> >
> > Rick, when I had chocks I ran the mooring bridle thru them and attached
> each end of the bridle to the center cleat.  The few times I anchored, as I
> recall, I just ran the anchor line directly to the cleat.
> >
> > And, as Stan pointed out, the issue of the sheets hanging up on the bow
> cleat is a problem of the past.
> >
> > Bruce
> >
> >> On Aug 14, 2016, at 7:49 AM, David Bradley <dwbrad at gmail.com> wrote:
> >>
> >> Bruce,
> >>
> >> Sounds like a good set up for a mooring with two pendants.  For
> anchoring maybe you could have someone rig you a bridle. Take a look at
> Cyclone Mooring Pendants at West Marine for an example.
> >>
> >> Dave B
> >>
> >>> On Aug 13, 2016, at 9:38 PM, Bruce Greenwald <bgreenwald at optonline.net>
> wrote:
> >>>
> >>> Hi all,  There has been quite a bit written over the last few months
> about anchoring techniques but I haven?t seen a discussion of my particular
> question.  I have a 2013/14 model - my second - which is outfitted with two
> bow cleats, port and starboard, no chocks, and where in my last boat I had
> a cleat on the bow deck along the centerline I have what I can only
> describe as a u bolt which looks just like the bow lifting eye.  The GB
> explanation for this change is that it provides greater convenience and
> security in attaching the line from the mast crane when raising and
> lowering the mast.  My question is whether there is any way to run an
> anchor line other than simply tying it to one of the two bow cleats.  Note
> (if the picture attachment came thru) that the center eye is several inches
> aft of the bow cleats so if I run a line thru the eye before tying to a
> cleat the line would presumably be more on center though I don?t know what
> effect, if any, the force the eye would be running the line back to  a
> cleat.  Unless I am missing something,that setup would also require
> starting with the end of the anchor line in order to run it thru the eye
> which doesn?t seem very practical  Any thoughts? Thanks.
> >>>
> >>> Bruce Greenwald
> >>> S/V Ruach
> >>> __________________________________________________
> >>> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/
> mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
> >>>
> >>> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives
> go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> >>> __________________________________________________
> >> __________________________________________________
> >> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/
> mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
> >>
> >> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives
> go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> >> __________________________________________________
> >
> > __________________________________________________
> > To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/
> mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
> >
> > For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives
> go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> > __________________________________________________
>
> __________________________________________________
> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/
> mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
>
> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go
> to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> __________________________________________________
>

From chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com  Mon Aug 15 22:12:19 2016
From: chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com (Chris)
Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2016 22:12:19 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Enosis Looking for Dock Space
In-Reply-To: <E3A96AB1-D2D7-45FC-A877-760172CE5575@yahoo.com>
References: <CADNTwiX7puSA90EZhDcJdQ=7a07tJZ9uoNYASGdzSnVzfpSifA@mail.gmail.com>
 <E3A96AB1-D2D7-45FC-A877-760172CE5575@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <C0E39AFF-D3D6-4649-82E1-F0F0DBEAFC96@gmail.com>

Thanks Elle, 
Mac mcready found a spot for us but thank you for the kind offer.  Hope to meet you in person someday. Looks like our trip to China is delayed so we will be at the boat show on the first day, maybe see you there if you still go to the shows. 
Chris & Alice Geankoplis 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 14, 2016, at 2:46 PM, Elle via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> 
> Hey , Chris,
> 
> It's not near your intended destination, but if you have need of dockage on the lower Potomac, let me know.
> 
> Elle
> Northern Neck Images
> 
> 
>> On Aug 9, 2016, at 11:24 AM, Chris Geankoplis <chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Not sure if my previous message went through.  Enosis will be on the
>> Chesapeake Bay for a couple of months. Looking for a dock where I can keep
>> the boat.  The Glen Burnie area would be the best as we are staying near
>> Ellicott City.  If any Rhodies could recommend a marina or know of an
>> available dock for Enosis please let me know.  Being retired $ do count.
>> Don't need Electricity or water, just a safe place to keep in the water.
>> 
>> Thanks!
>> 
>> Chris & Alice Geankoplis
>> SV Enosis I
>> __________________________________________________
>> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
>> 
>> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
>> __________________________________________________
> 
> __________________________________________________
> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
> 
> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> __________________________________________________

From Colealexander at hotmail.com  Wed Aug 17 12:53:02 2016
From: Colealexander at hotmail.com (S/V Lark)
Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2016 09:53:02 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
In-Reply-To: <4C696FF9-F554-40BB-A536-7750AB6C7003@optonline.net>
References: <4C696FF9-F554-40BB-A536-7750AB6C7003@optonline.net>
Message-ID: <1471452782083-52470.post@n5.nabble.com>

I cannot answer your question but want to add one of my own.   I have the
center cleat and guides on either side of the bow for dock lines on my 2002
boat.   I added a leather chaff guard (West Marine) to my dock line, since
it wore through the outer layer of the double braid during a windstorm.   I
haven't anchored yet except to test my gear, but hope to do so for a couple
nights in a few weeks.    How do people run an anchor line to minimize
chaffing?  

 



-----
Alex Cole
S/V Lark
--
View this message in context: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/Anchoring-tp52434p52470.html
Sent from the Rhodes 22 mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

From sloopblueheron at gmail.com  Wed Aug 17 13:47:58 2016
From: sloopblueheron at gmail.com (Rick)
Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2016 13:47:58 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
In-Reply-To: <1471452782083-52470.post@n5.nabble.com>
References: <4C696FF9-F554-40BB-A536-7750AB6C7003@optonline.net>
 <1471452782083-52470.post@n5.nabble.com>
Message-ID: <CABkv36ZcNcraq6fvMhtA06ict4Jz-pA1SsL7avcyWKbX3RkakQ@mail.gmail.com>

Alex,

A bridle works best for long term anchoring or mooring.

Rick

On Wed, Aug 17, 2016 at 12:53 PM, S/V Lark <Colealexander at hotmail.com>
wrote:

> I cannot answer your question but want to add one of my own.   I have the
> center cleat and guides on either side of the bow for dock lines on my 2002
> boat.   I added a leather chaff guard (West Marine) to my dock line, since
> it wore through the outer layer of the double braid during a windstorm.   I
> haven't anchored yet except to test my gear, but hope to do so for a couple
> nights in a few weeks.    How do people run an anchor line to minimize
> chaffing?
>
>
>
>
>
> -----
> Alex Cole
> S/V Lark
> --
> View this message in context: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.
> nabble.com/Anchoring-tp52434p52470.html
> Sent from the Rhodes 22 mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
> __________________________________________________
> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/
> mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
>
> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go
> to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> __________________________________________________
>

From mtroy at atlanticbb.net  Wed Aug 17 14:22:55 2016
From: mtroy at atlanticbb.net (Mary Lou Troy)
Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2016 14:22:55 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
In-Reply-To: <1471452782083-52470.post@n5.nabble.com>
References: <4C696FF9-F554-40BB-A536-7750AB6C7003@optonline.net>
 <1471452782083-52470.post@n5.nabble.com>
Message-ID: <auto-000035460903@smtp01.cluster1.echolabs.net>

For short term anchoring we always tried to pick the most sheltered 
area possible so that we didn't have to worry (usually) about high 
winds. Storms here are generally pretty quick and we never noticed 
chafe from blowing about at anchor for the 20-40 minute duration of a 
storm. The one time I was concerned was when we anchored in a 
sheltered but unfamiliar area. Shortly after dark, a strong wind came 
up from the opposite direction from which it had been forecast. It 
was a beautiful moonlit night but we didn't want to move to a more 
protected spot unless we had to because of our unfamiliarity with the 
area so we stuck it out. The winds and waves built until we were 
really bouncing around. We let out a lot more scope and I wrapped a 
dish towel around the rode where it crossed the bow to protect it 
from chafe. After about 4 hours, the winds died down. It was about 1 
in the morning when we finally went to bed but not until after I'd 
checked the anchor rode one last time - it was fine.

Mary Lou
ex R22


At 12:53 PM 8/17/2016, you wrote:
>I cannot answer your question but want to add one of my own.   I have the
>center cleat and guides on either side of the bow for dock lines on my 2002
>boat.   I added a leather chaff guard (West Marine) to my dock line, since
>it wore through the outer layer of the double braid during a windstorm.   I
>haven't anchored yet except to test my gear, but hope to do so for a couple
>nights in a few weeks.    How do people run an anchor line to minimize
>chaffing?
>
>
>
>
>
>-----
>Alex Cole
>S/V Lark
>--
>View this message in context: 
>http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/Anchoring-tp52434p52470.html
>Sent from the Rhodes 22 mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
>__________________________________________________
>To subscribe/unsubscribe go to 
>http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
>
>For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and 
>archives go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
>__________________________________________________
>
>
>-----
>No virus found in this message.
>Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>Version: 2016.0.7752 / Virus Database: 4647/12826 - Release Date: 08/17/16


From rbeytagh at gmail.com  Wed Aug 17 16:03:19 2016
From: rbeytagh at gmail.com (Richard Beytagh)
Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2016 16:03:19 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
In-Reply-To: <1471452782083-52470.post@n5.nabble.com>
References: <4C696FF9-F554-40BB-A536-7750AB6C7003@optonline.net>
 <1471452782083-52470.post@n5.nabble.com>
Message-ID: <CALbDJ9afhR1uyfidfDT3ZfjB5JAgzmooTvZtvaeFnUT2cjDGQA@mail.gmail.com>

Leather chaff guard is fine, but a 1-2 foot piece of garden hose does the
trick as well. Just thread the hose onto the rode before anchoring and made
sure the hose is at the friction point when you anchor, You can stitch it
on to the rode, but I find it mostly stays put. The nice thing about a hose
is you can move it along the rode if you need to let out more line.

S/V Waif



~~~ _/) ~~~

Richard Beytagh
Phone: 828 337 0180

On Wed, Aug 17, 2016 at 12:53 PM, S/V Lark <Colealexander at hotmail.com>
wrote:

> I cannot answer your question but want to add one of my own.   I have the
> center cleat and guides on either side of the bow for dock lines on my 2002
> boat.   I added a leather chaff guard (West Marine) to my dock line, since
> it wore through the outer layer of the double braid during a windstorm.   I
> haven't anchored yet except to test my gear, but hope to do so for a couple
> nights in a few weeks.    How do people run an anchor line to minimize
> chaffing?
>
>
>
>
>
> -----
> Alex Cole
> S/V Lark
> --
> View this message in context: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.
> nabble.com/Anchoring-tp52434p52470.html
> Sent from the Rhodes 22 mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
> __________________________________________________
> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/
> mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
>
> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go
> to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> __________________________________________________
>

From C.Robert.Lester at dartmouth.edu  Wed Aug 17 22:33:16 2016
From: C.Robert.Lester at dartmouth.edu (C. Robert Lester)
Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2016 02:33:16 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Rhodes 22 Trailer for sale?
Message-ID: <SN2PR03MB2383103E451EFA1D91A46DBEAE150@SN2PR03MB2383.namprd03.prod.outlook.com>

Please let me know if you have a trailer for sale.
Thanks in advance,
Bob

From stan at rhodes22.com  Thu Aug 18 07:33:07 2016
From: stan at rhodes22.com (Stan Spitzer)
Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2016 07:33:07 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Rhodes 22 Trailer for sale?
In-Reply-To: <SN2PR03MB2383103E451EFA1D91A46DBEAE150@SN2PR03MB2383.namprd03.prod.outlook.com>
References: <SN2PR03MB2383103E451EFA1D91A46DBEAE150@SN2PR03MB2383.namprd03.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <0cced530-0fc9-438f-e6a8-49b018e16362@rhodes22.com>


Hi Robert Lester,

We have a few used and one new trailer that we prioritize for the C of S 
community but can be had by others at higher prices.

stan

On 8/17/16 10:33 PM, C. Robert Lester wrote:
> Please let me know if you have a trailer for sale.
> Thanks in advance,
> Bob
> __________________________________________________
> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
>
> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> __________________________________________________


From gstewart8 at cogeco.ca  Sat Aug 20 19:25:00 2016
From: gstewart8 at cogeco.ca (Graham Stewart)
Date: Sat, 20 Aug 2016 19:25:00 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] deck shape
In-Reply-To: <004e01d1f36f$5405ca00$fc115e00$@ca>
References: <1801125827.14395278.1470872926762.JavaMail.yahoo.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1801125827.14395278.1470872926762.JavaMail.yahoo@mail.yahoo.com>
 <DM3PR18MB073187D1339CC24E3B1595B0D91E0@DM3PR18MB0731.namprd18.prod.outlook.com>
 <004e01d1f36f$5405ca00$fc115e00$@ca>
Message-ID: <006f01d1fb3a$128758f0$37960ad0$@ca>

I am finally at the point in my restoration of Agile where am installing the
compression post and main bulkhead. However, it appears that the cabin top
has dropped by a full inch. I am left with the choice of either jacking up
the deck so that the compression post fits or cutting the post back to fit
the space. Does anyone know what the implications might be if I gradually
jack up the cabin top? Might I crack the deck? Obviously I should have
supported the cabin top when I removed the post but I didn't think it would
deform when there was no load on it.

If anyone has any suggestions I would appreciate it. Otherwise I will try to
rais the top very gradually and if that seems to require more than a
moderate force I will live with the missing inch and tell myself that I am
still growing.


Graham Stewart
Agile. R22, 1976
Kingston Ontario Canada






From spreadgoodnews at gmail.com  Sat Aug 20 23:08:44 2016
From: spreadgoodnews at gmail.com (Goodness)
Date: Sat, 20 Aug 2016 23:08:44 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] deck shape
In-Reply-To: <006f01d1fb3a$128758f0$37960ad0$@ca>
References: <1801125827.14395278.1470872926762.JavaMail.yahoo.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1801125827.14395278.1470872926762.JavaMail.yahoo@mail.yahoo.com>
 <DM3PR18MB073187D1339CC24E3B1595B0D91E0@DM3PR18MB0731.namprd18.prod.outlook.com>
 <004e01d1f36f$5405ca00$fc115e00$@ca> <006f01d1fb3a$128758f0$37960ad0$@ca>
Message-ID: <5D34D064-668F-4AB9-AD00-9DCA60B7CE7F@gmail.com>

Graham:  i assume that your mast has remained unstepped during your restoration. 
Remember you have an inner hull so your cabin top has two layers. The center of my cabin top interior dropped an inch immediately upon removing my compression post.  I had the floor bulkhead replaced within a week but had to lift the inner lining up to get the compression post to fit back into place.  It is nice and tight and the deck is level and firm.  Fiberglass is very flexible and strong. Make sure your base for the post is at the proper height however.  Do you have an original bulkehad as well?  That helps you guage that the compression post is in the right position.
Good luck!

Bob (palatka)

> On Aug 20, 2016, at 7:25 PM, Graham Stewart <gstewart8 at cogeco.ca> wrote:
> 
> I am finally at the point in my restoration of Agile where am installing the
> compression post and main bulkhead. However, it appears that the cabin top
> has dropped by a full inch. I am left with the choice of either jacking up
> the deck so that the compression post fits or cutting the post back to fit
> the space. Does anyone know what the implications might be if I gradually
> jack up the cabin top? Might I crack the deck? Obviously I should have
> supported the cabin top when I removed the post but I didn't think it would
> deform when there was no load on it.
> 
> If anyone has any suggestions I would appreciate it. Otherwise I will try to
> rais the top very gradually and if that seems to require more than a
> moderate force I will live with the missing inch and tell myself that I am
> still growing.
> 
> 
> Graham Stewart
> Agile. R22, 1976
> Kingston Ontario Canada
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __________________________________________________
> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
> 
> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> __________________________________________________

From goldsmith.cf at gmail.com  Sun Aug 21 08:37:11 2016
From: goldsmith.cf at gmail.com (Frank Goldsmith)
Date: Sun, 21 Aug 2016 08:37:11 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Solar battery chargers
In-Reply-To: <E3A96AB1-D2D7-45FC-A877-760172CE5575@yahoo.com>
References: <CADNTwiX7puSA90EZhDcJdQ=7a07tJZ9uoNYASGdzSnVzfpSifA@mail.gmail.com>
 <E3A96AB1-D2D7-45FC-A877-760172CE5575@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <6A83474D-E52D-468A-8B5D-543B9032BACB@gmail.com>

Rhodies,

My first post ? often a lurker, never a poster.  

I?m thinking of getting a solar charger to use for keeping my deep-cycle battery topped off.  Does anyone have any advance on a brand, features, source, etc.?  And how does one run the leads down to where the battery sits, under the v-berth cushions?  It would seem that the wires could get crimped or could allow moisture to travel along them.

Thanks!

Frank Goldsmith
Asheville, NC
1985 Rhodes 22 (refurbished around 2001)
(Kept on Lake Keowee, SC)


From rbeytagh at gmail.com  Sun Aug 21 08:55:58 2016
From: rbeytagh at gmail.com (Richard Beytagh)
Date: Sun, 21 Aug 2016 08:55:58 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Solar battery chargers
In-Reply-To: <6A83474D-E52D-468A-8B5D-543B9032BACB@gmail.com>
References: <CADNTwiX7puSA90EZhDcJdQ=7a07tJZ9uoNYASGdzSnVzfpSifA@mail.gmail.com>
 <E3A96AB1-D2D7-45FC-A877-760172CE5575@yahoo.com>
 <6A83474D-E52D-468A-8B5D-543B9032BACB@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CALbDJ9bOuoP0p4ixzmcMHzvrivAeXji+TxMy8KfFROtbLR01Gg@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Frank..this is not an elegant solution, but it's cheap and works well
for a single battery. Buy a 1.5w solar charger from Harbor Freight. Put it
on your cabin top and lead the cable under the pop-top and plug it into the
DC power plug (cigar lighter).  This has kept my Wal-Mart deep-cycle
battery charged for 3 years so far.

Cheers
S/V Waif

On Aug 21, 2016 8:37 AM, "Frank Goldsmith" <goldsmith.cf at gmail.com> wrote:

> Rhodies,
>
> My first post ? often a lurker, never a poster.
>
> I?m thinking of getting a solar charger to use for keeping my deep-cycle
> battery topped off.  Does anyone have any advance on a brand, features,
> source, etc.?  And how does one run the leads down to where the battery
> sits, under the v-berth cushions?  It would seem that the wires could get
> crimped or could allow moisture to travel along them.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Frank Goldsmith
> Asheville, NC
> 1985 Rhodes 22 (refurbished around 2001)
> (Kept on Lake Keowee, SC)
>
> __________________________________________________
> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/
> mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
>
> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go
> to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> __________________________________________________
>

From gstewart8 at cogeco.ca  Sun Aug 21 09:08:25 2016
From: gstewart8 at cogeco.ca (Graham Stewart)
Date: Sun, 21 Aug 2016 09:08:25 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] deck shape
In-Reply-To: <5D34D064-668F-4AB9-AD00-9DCA60B7CE7F@gmail.com>
References: <1801125827.14395278.1470872926762.JavaMail.yahoo.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1801125827.14395278.1470872926762.JavaMail.yahoo@mail.yahoo.com>
 <DM3PR18MB073187D1339CC24E3B1595B0D91E0@DM3PR18MB0731.namprd18.prod.outlook.com>
 <004e01d1f36f$5405ca00$fc115e00$@ca> <006f01d1fb3a$128758f0$37960ad0$@ca>
 <5D34D064-668F-4AB9-AD00-9DCA60B7CE7F@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <007601d1fbad$1a0e3df0$4e2ab9d0$@ca>

BoB:

 Thanks for the feedback. That is very helpful.
Yes, I had unstepped the mast and there was no load on the deck - not even
snow. I made the new bulkhead pieces using the old ones as templates and
placed them according to the fibreglass stubs that were in place to hold the
old pieces. Everything seems to be coming together properly so I am pretty
sure that the compression post base is in the correct place. The only
difference is that the old base had been distorting under the force of the
compression post over the years so the new piece corrected for that
accounting for perhaps as much as 1/2 inch in the drop of the cabin top.
What did you use to raise the cabin top in order to reinsert the compression
post? How much force did it take?
Thanks again,


Graham Stewart
Agile. R22, 1976
Kingston Ontario Canada




-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of
Goodness
Sent: August 20, 2016 11:09 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] deck shape

Graham:  i assume that your mast has remained unstepped during your
restoration. 
Remember you have an inner hull so your cabin top has two layers. The center
of my cabin top interior dropped an inch immediately upon removing my
compression post.  I had the floor bulkhead replaced within a week but had
to lift the inner lining up to get the compression post to fit back into
place.  It is nice and tight and the deck is level and firm.  Fiberglass is
very flexible and strong. Make sure your base for the post is at the proper
height however.  Do you have an original bulkehad as well?  That helps you
guage that the compression post is in the right position.
Good luck!

Bob (palatka)

> On Aug 20, 2016, at 7:25 PM, Graham Stewart <gstewart8 at cogeco.ca> wrote:
> 
> I am finally at the point in my restoration of Agile where am 
> installing the compression post and main bulkhead. However, it appears 
> that the cabin top has dropped by a full inch. I am left with the 
> choice of either jacking up the deck so that the compression post fits 
> or cutting the post back to fit the space. Does anyone know what the 
> implications might be if I gradually jack up the cabin top? Might I 
> crack the deck? Obviously I should have supported the cabin top when I 
> removed the post but I didn't think it would deform when there was no load
on it.
> 
> If anyone has any suggestions I would appreciate it. Otherwise I will 
> try to rais the top very gradually and if that seems to require more 
> than a moderate force I will live with the missing inch and tell 
> myself that I am still growing.
> 
> 
> Graham Stewart
> Agile. R22, 1976
> Kingston Ontario Canada
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __________________________________________________
> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to 
> http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
> 
> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives 
> go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list 
> __________________________________________________
__________________________________________________
To subscribe/unsubscribe go to
http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list

For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go to
http://www.rhodes22.org/list
__________________________________________________


From goldsmith.cf at gmail.com  Sun Aug 21 10:13:33 2016
From: goldsmith.cf at gmail.com (Frank Goldsmith)
Date: Sun, 21 Aug 2016 10:13:33 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Solar battery chargers
In-Reply-To: <CALbDJ9bOuoP0p4ixzmcMHzvrivAeXji+TxMy8KfFROtbLR01Gg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CADNTwiX7puSA90EZhDcJdQ=7a07tJZ9uoNYASGdzSnVzfpSifA@mail.gmail.com>
 <E3A96AB1-D2D7-45FC-A877-760172CE5575@yahoo.com>
 <6A83474D-E52D-468A-8B5D-543B9032BACB@gmail.com>
 <CALbDJ9bOuoP0p4ixzmcMHzvrivAeXji+TxMy8KfFROtbLR01Gg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8255ABA8-F12F-44A9-A95E-1751A66724F4@gmail.com>

Thanks, Richard.  A cheap and not elegant solution is fine by me.  I take it the charger reverses the flow of the current to the battery when plugged into the cigar lighter?  I had not thought of that.  

Frank

> On Aug 21, 2016, at 8:55 AM, Richard Beytagh <rbeytagh at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Hi Frank..this is not an elegant solution, but it's cheap and works well
> for a single battery. Buy a 1.5w solar charger from Harbor Freight. Put it
> on your cabin top and lead the cable under the pop-top and plug it into the
> DC power plug (cigar lighter).  This has kept my Wal-Mart deep-cycle
> battery charged for 3 years so far.
> 
> Cheers
> S/V Waif
> 
> On Aug 21, 2016 8:37 AM, "Frank Goldsmith" <goldsmith.cf at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
>> Rhodies,
>> 
>> My first post ? often a lurker, never a poster.
>> 
>> I?m thinking of getting a solar charger to use for keeping my deep-cycle
>> battery topped off.  Does anyone have any advance on a brand, features,
>> source, etc.?  And how does one run the leads down to where the battery
>> sits, under the v-berth cushions?  It would seem that the wires could get
>> crimped or could allow moisture to travel along them.
>> 
>> Thanks!
>> 
>> Frank Goldsmith
>> Asheville, NC
>> 1985 Rhodes 22 (refurbished around 2001)
>> (Kept on Lake Keowee, SC)
>> 
>> __________________________________________________
>> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/
>> mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
>> 
>> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go
>> to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
>> __________________________________________________
>> 
> __________________________________________________
> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
> 
> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> __________________________________________________


From clbedford at gmail.com  Sun Aug 21 10:46:29 2016
From: clbedford at gmail.com (Chris Bedford)
Date: Sun, 21 Aug 2016 09:46:29 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Solar battery chargers
In-Reply-To: <8255ABA8-F12F-44A9-A95E-1751A66724F4@gmail.com>
References: <CADNTwiX7puSA90EZhDcJdQ=7a07tJZ9uoNYASGdzSnVzfpSifA@mail.gmail.com>
 <E3A96AB1-D2D7-45FC-A877-760172CE5575@yahoo.com>
 <6A83474D-E52D-468A-8B5D-543B9032BACB@gmail.com>
 <CALbDJ9bOuoP0p4ixzmcMHzvrivAeXji+TxMy8KfFROtbLR01Gg@mail.gmail.com>
 <8255ABA8-F12F-44A9-A95E-1751A66724F4@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CACNZp-0W9Jia-hhV1YtMRwWTRwecKMtUcp+w6ubtWgVBKJCBJw@mail.gmail.com>

I had read someplace, though I don't know if it's true, that the DC socket
needs to be active (i.e., power flowing to it), so it may not work if the
battery is turned off.

Richard, is that true in your experience, or was I lead astray by some
yahoo on the internet?

Cheers,

Chris

On Aug 21, 2016 9:13 AM, "Frank Goldsmith" <goldsmith.cf at gmail.com> wrote:

> Thanks, Richard.  A cheap and not elegant solution is fine by me.  I take
> it the charger reverses the flow of the current to the battery when plugged
> into the cigar lighter?  I had not thought of that.
>
> Frank
>
> > On Aug 21, 2016, at 8:55 AM, Richard Beytagh <rbeytagh at gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > Hi Frank..this is not an elegant solution, but it's cheap and works well
> > for a single battery. Buy a 1.5w solar charger from Harbor Freight. Put
> it
> > on your cabin top and lead the cable under the pop-top and plug it into
> the
> > DC power plug (cigar lighter).  This has kept my Wal-Mart deep-cycle
> > battery charged for 3 years so far.
> >
> > Cheers
> > S/V Waif
> >
> > On Aug 21, 2016 8:37 AM, "Frank Goldsmith" <goldsmith.cf at gmail.com>
> wrote:
> >
> >> Rhodies,
> >>
> >> My first post ? often a lurker, never a poster.
> >>
> >> I?m thinking of getting a solar charger to use for keeping my deep-cycle
> >> battery topped off.  Does anyone have any advance on a brand, features,
> >> source, etc.?  And how does one run the leads down to where the battery
> >> sits, under the v-berth cushions?  It would seem that the wires could
> get
> >> crimped or could allow moisture to travel along them.
> >>
> >> Thanks!
> >>
> >> Frank Goldsmith
> >> Asheville, NC
> >> 1985 Rhodes 22 (refurbished around 2001)
> >> (Kept on Lake Keowee, SC)
> >>
> >> __________________________________________________
> >> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/
> >> mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
> >>
> >> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives
> go
> >> to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> >> __________________________________________________
> >>
> > __________________________________________________
> > To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/
> mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
> >
> > For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives
> go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> > __________________________________________________
>
> __________________________________________________
> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/
> mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
>
> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go
> to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> __________________________________________________
>

From rbeytagh at gmail.com  Sun Aug 21 11:37:38 2016
From: rbeytagh at gmail.com (Richard Beytagh)
Date: Sun, 21 Aug 2016 11:37:38 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Solar battery chargers
In-Reply-To: <CACNZp-0W9Jia-hhV1YtMRwWTRwecKMtUcp+w6ubtWgVBKJCBJw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CADNTwiX7puSA90EZhDcJdQ=7a07tJZ9uoNYASGdzSnVzfpSifA@mail.gmail.com>
 <E3A96AB1-D2D7-45FC-A877-760172CE5575@yahoo.com>
 <6A83474D-E52D-468A-8B5D-543B9032BACB@gmail.com>
 <CALbDJ9bOuoP0p4ixzmcMHzvrivAeXji+TxMy8KfFROtbLR01Gg@mail.gmail.com>
 <8255ABA8-F12F-44A9-A95E-1751A66724F4@gmail.com>
 <CACNZp-0W9Jia-hhV1YtMRwWTRwecKMtUcp+w6ubtWgVBKJCBJw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CALbDJ9aEPVGm_iTzE4X9_FakKgJercHZSKaHNjzgSfgr1SJVtg@mail.gmail.com>

I have my cigar lighter directly wired to the battery so I can't comment on
this. The super cheap solar panel (around $15) comes with a DC outlet
plugin and a set of crocodile clips so you have both options. I stow the
panel below when I go sailing as I did lose one over the side in a hard
puff.



~~~ _/) ~~~

Richard Beytagh
Phone: 828 337 0180

On Sun, Aug 21, 2016 at 10:46 AM, Chris Bedford <clbedford at gmail.com> wrote:

> I had read someplace, though I don't know if it's true, that the DC socket
> needs to be active (i.e., power flowing to it), so it may not work if the
> battery is turned off.
>
> Richard, is that true in your experience, or was I lead astray by some
> yahoo on the internet?
>
> Cheers,
>
> Chris
>
> On Aug 21, 2016 9:13 AM, "Frank Goldsmith" <goldsmith.cf at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Thanks, Richard.  A cheap and not elegant solution is fine by me.  I take
> > it the charger reverses the flow of the current to the battery when
> plugged
> > into the cigar lighter?  I had not thought of that.
> >
> > Frank
> >
> > > On Aug 21, 2016, at 8:55 AM, Richard Beytagh <rbeytagh at gmail.com>
> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi Frank..this is not an elegant solution, but it's cheap and works
> well
> > > for a single battery. Buy a 1.5w solar charger from Harbor Freight. Put
> > it
> > > on your cabin top and lead the cable under the pop-top and plug it into
> > the
> > > DC power plug (cigar lighter).  This has kept my Wal-Mart deep-cycle
> > > battery charged for 3 years so far.
> > >
> > > Cheers
> > > S/V Waif
> > >
> > > On Aug 21, 2016 8:37 AM, "Frank Goldsmith" <goldsmith.cf at gmail.com>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > >> Rhodies,
> > >>
> > >> My first post ? often a lurker, never a poster.
> > >>
> > >> I?m thinking of getting a solar charger to use for keeping my
> deep-cycle
> > >> battery topped off.  Does anyone have any advance on a brand,
> features,
> > >> source, etc.?  And how does one run the leads down to where the
> battery
> > >> sits, under the v-berth cushions?  It would seem that the wires could
> > get
> > >> crimped or could allow moisture to travel along them.
> > >>
> > >> Thanks!
> > >>
> > >> Frank Goldsmith
> > >> Asheville, NC
> > >> 1985 Rhodes 22 (refurbished around 2001)
> > >> (Kept on Lake Keowee, SC)
> > >>
> > >> __________________________________________________
> > >> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/
> > >> mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
> > >>
> > >> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives
> > go
> > >> to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> > >> __________________________________________________
> > >>
> > > __________________________________________________
> > > To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/
> > mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
> > >
> > > For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives
> > go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> > > __________________________________________________
> >
> > __________________________________________________
> > To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/
> > mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
> >
> > For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go
> > to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> > __________________________________________________
> >
> __________________________________________________
> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/
> mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
>
> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go
> to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> __________________________________________________
>

From sloopblueheron at gmail.com  Sun Aug 21 13:43:27 2016
From: sloopblueheron at gmail.com (Rick)
Date: Sun, 21 Aug 2016 13:43:27 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Solar battery chargers
In-Reply-To: <6A83474D-E52D-468A-8B5D-543B9032BACB@gmail.com>
References: <CADNTwiX7puSA90EZhDcJdQ=7a07tJZ9uoNYASGdzSnVzfpSifA@mail.gmail.com>
 <E3A96AB1-D2D7-45FC-A877-760172CE5575@yahoo.com>
 <6A83474D-E52D-468A-8B5D-543B9032BACB@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CABkv36aAo8xOYvrrGeZZA_vup1MGewrJGazZJcYhQ7EVMBg04Q@mail.gmail.com>

Frank,

Without a voltage regulator between your charger and battery, a deep cycle
battery won't last very long.

Rick

On Sun, Aug 21, 2016 at 8:37 AM, Frank Goldsmith <goldsmith.cf at gmail.com>
wrote:

> Rhodies,
>
> My first post ? often a lurker, never a poster.
>
> I?m thinking of getting a solar charger to use for keeping my deep-cycle
> battery topped off.  Does anyone have any advance on a brand, features,
> source, etc.?  And how does one run the leads down to where the battery
> sits, under the v-berth cushions?  It would seem that the wires could get
> crimped or could allow moisture to travel along them.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Frank Goldsmith
> Asheville, NC
> 1985 Rhodes 22 (refurbished around 2001)
> (Kept on Lake Keowee, SC)
>
> __________________________________________________
> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/
> mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
>
> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go
> to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> __________________________________________________
>

From goldsmith.cf at gmail.com  Sun Aug 21 14:03:10 2016
From: goldsmith.cf at gmail.com (Frank Goldsmith)
Date: Sun, 21 Aug 2016 14:03:10 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Solar battery chargers
In-Reply-To: <CABkv36aAo8xOYvrrGeZZA_vup1MGewrJGazZJcYhQ7EVMBg04Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CADNTwiX7puSA90EZhDcJdQ=7a07tJZ9uoNYASGdzSnVzfpSifA@mail.gmail.com>
 <E3A96AB1-D2D7-45FC-A877-760172CE5575@yahoo.com>
 <6A83474D-E52D-468A-8B5D-543B9032BACB@gmail.com>
 <CABkv36aAo8xOYvrrGeZZA_vup1MGewrJGazZJcYhQ7EVMBg04Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <0F8E82D1-7C71-4341-B26C-0FC5B6CD7C1B@gmail.com>

Hmmm.  Thanks, Rick.  It sounds like I need to educate myself a bit more about direct-current electricity.   Do most folks who have solar chargers install a voltage regulator, and if so, does anyone have any recommendations on specific ones?

Frank


> On Aug 21, 2016, at 1:43 PM, Rick <sloopblueheron at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Frank,
> 
> Without a voltage regulator between your charger and battery, a deep cycle
> battery won't last very long.
> 
> Rick
> 
> On Sun, Aug 21, 2016 at 8:37 AM, Frank Goldsmith <goldsmith.cf at gmail.com>
> wrote:
> 
>> Rhodies,
>> 
>> My first post ? often a lurker, never a poster.
>> 
>> I?m thinking of getting a solar charger to use for keeping my deep-cycle
>> battery topped off.  Does anyone have any advance on a brand, features,
>> source, etc.?  And how does one run the leads down to where the battery
>> sits, under the v-berth cushions?  It would seem that the wires could get
>> crimped or could allow moisture to travel along them.
>> 
>> Thanks!
>> 
>> Frank Goldsmith
>> Asheville, NC
>> 1985 Rhodes 22 (refurbished around 2001)
>> (Kept on Lake Keowee, SC)
>> 
>> __________________________________________________
>> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/
>> mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
>> 
>> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go
>> to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
>> __________________________________________________
>> 
> __________________________________________________
> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
> 
> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> __________________________________________________


From blue66corvette at hotmail.com  Sun Aug 21 15:08:01 2016
From: blue66corvette at hotmail.com (Charles Nieman)
Date: Sun, 21 Aug 2016 19:08:01 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Solar battery chargers
In-Reply-To: <6A83474D-E52D-468A-8B5D-543B9032BACB@gmail.com>
References: <CADNTwiX7puSA90EZhDcJdQ=7a07tJZ9uoNYASGdzSnVzfpSifA@mail.gmail.com>
 <E3A96AB1-D2D7-45FC-A877-760172CE5575@yahoo.com>,
 <6A83474D-E52D-468A-8B5D-543B9032BACB@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <DM3PR18MB07310AA0E64617BF2422BC9AD9E90@DM3PR18MB0731.namprd18.prod.outlook.com>

I just replaced the two panels on my 98 Rhodes. Since I was just replacing panels I did not worry with the regulator, I just assumed it was fine (could be a mistake, but it won't be my first). I ordered these panels..... BSP1012-LSS..... Seemed like a perfect match to the old ones.

Sent from my iPhone

Charles
98 R 22
s/v Daydream

On Aug 21, 2016, at 7:37 AM, Frank Goldsmith <goldsmith.cf at gmail.com<mailto:goldsmith.cf at gmail.com>> wrote:

Rhodies,

My first post - often a lurker, never a poster.

I'm thinking of getting a solar charger to use for keeping my deep-cycle battery topped off.  Does anyone have any advance on a brand, features, source, etc.?  And how does one run the leads down to where the battery sits, under the v-berth cushions?  It would seem that the wires could get crimped or could allow moisture to travel along them.

Thanks!

Frank Goldsmith
Asheville, NC
1985 Rhodes 22 (refurbished around 2001)
(Kept on Lake Keowee, SC)

__________________________________________________
To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list

For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
__________________________________________________

From cjlowE at sssnet.com  Sun Aug 21 15:28:30 2016
From: cjlowE at sssnet.com (cjlowE at sssnet.com)
Date: Sun, 21 Aug 2016 15:28:30 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] NRe: ***POSSIBLE SPAM*** Re: Solar battery chargers
In-Reply-To: <0F8E82D1-7C71-4341-B26C-0FC5B6CD7C1B@gmail.com>
References: <CADNTwiX7puSA90EZhDcJdQ=7a07tJZ9uoNYASGdzSnVzfpSifA@mail.gmail.com>
 <E3A96AB1-D2D7-45FC-A877-760172CE5575@yahoo.com>
 <6A83474D-E52D-468A-8B5D-543B9032BACB@gmail.com>
 <CABkv36aAo8xOYvrrGeZZA_vup1MGewrJGazZJcYhQ7EVMBg04Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <0F8E82D1-7C71-4341-B26C-0FC5B6CD7C1B@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <50173.107.220.129.217.1471807710.squirrel@quickpop.sssnet.com>

A 1.5 watt panel most likely won't cook a battery very quickly. I live in
Ohio,have a 10 watt panel, and my battery's last about six years.
 Some things to consider before purchasing:
What are you wanting to power (load) ? If you use GPS a lot,anchor out (
anchor light), run a DVD player or other high amperage loads,a 1.5 watt
panel won't keep up.
Another thing to consider is do you have any parasitic loads, like a clock
on a radio,memory for channels on the radio or powering an anchor light on
a mooring?
Are your lights LEDs? How much do you yes them? LEDs use about 1/10 of the
watts of regular lights.

If I were you,I would buy the 1.5 watt panel from harbor freight and while
there,buy their cheep multi- meter (< 5 $). Then you can check the state
of charge of your battery. If your battery has 12.8 volts, leave the solar
panel unplugged. When it gets down to 12.5 V ,plug it back in until it
gets back up to 12.8 V. If it never gets back up to full charge, you are
using more watts than your solar panel can replace and you need a bigger
panel.
That 12.8 volts is not set in stone, that is what a new battery should
read. An older battery may read12.3 or12.4 .
You should not let a battery get much below 12 volts before charging, it's
real hard on them.
 If you find that your panel is consistently overcharging the battery, you
can put a piece of window screen over the panel to partially block some
of the sun or mount the panel where some of the rig ( mast or boom) cast
a shadow over the panel during the arc of the sun.
I mounted my panel with 3 little squares of Velcro, if the wind is up I
just bring it in the cabin.
Just a few things to think about,

Jerry Lowe
S/V Country Rhodes '86




.  Thanks, Rick.  It sounds like I need to educate myself a bit more
> about direct-current electricity.   Do most folks who have solar chargers
> install a voltage regulator, and if so, does anyone have any
> recommendations on specific ones?
>
> Frank
>
>
>> On Aug 21, 2016, at 1:43 PM, Rick <sloopblueheron at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> Frank,
>>
>> Without a voltage regulator between your charger and battery, a deep
>> cycle
>> battery won't last very long.
>>
>> Rick
>>
>> On Sun, Aug 21, 2016 at 8:37 AM, Frank Goldsmith
>> <goldsmith.cf at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Rhodies,
>>>
>>> My first post ??? often a lurker, never a poster.
>>>
>>> I???m thinking of getting a solar charger to use for keeping my
>>> deep-cycle
>>> battery topped off.  Does anyone have any advance on a brand, features,
>>> source, etc.?  And how does one run the leads down to where the battery
>>> sits, under the v-berth cushions?  It would seem that the wires could
>>> get
>>> crimped or could allow moisture to travel along them.
>>>
>>> Thanks!
>>>
>>> Frank Goldsmith
>>> Asheville, NC
>>> 1985 Rhodes 22 (refurbished around 2001)
>>> (Kept on Lake Keowee, SC)
>>>
>>> __________________________________________________
>>> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/
>>> mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
>>>
>>> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives
>>> go
>>> to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
>>> __________________________________________________
>>>
>> __________________________________________________
>> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to
>> http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
>>
>> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives
>> go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
>> __________________________________________________
>
> __________________________________________________
> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to
> http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
>
> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go
> to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> __________________________________________________
>



From jadoucet at snet.net  Sun Aug 21 16:17:43 2016
From: jadoucet at snet.net (Joseph Doucet)
Date: Sun, 21 Aug 2016 16:17:43 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Solar battery chargers
In-Reply-To: <0F8E82D1-7C71-4341-B26C-0FC5B6CD7C1B@gmail.com>
References: <CADNTwiX7puSA90EZhDcJdQ=7a07tJZ9uoNYASGdzSnVzfpSifA@mail.gmail.com>
 <E3A96AB1-D2D7-45FC-A877-760172CE5575@yahoo.com>
 <6A83474D-E52D-468A-8B5D-543B9032BACB@gmail.com>
 <CABkv36aAo8xOYvrrGeZZA_vup1MGewrJGazZJcYhQ7EVMBg04Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <0F8E82D1-7C71-4341-B26C-0FC5B6CD7C1B@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <9FABEB9C-C1C3-4A93-BF67-92AEC1D5F2E1@snet.net>

Ok, we have a 50 w solar panel charging three 12 v, 40 amp-hr LiPo batteries that power the auxiliary motor. We use 3 separate controllers . 

For the boat systems battery we have a 5 w panel and  just use a diode to prevent the battery from discharging at night.

For a 15 w system I recommend a controller to prevent overcharging and overnight discharge .

Joe with an R22 with no name

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 21, 2016, at 2:03 PM, Frank Goldsmith <goldsmith.cf at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Hmmm.  Thanks, Rick.  It sounds like I need to educate myself a bit more about direct-current electricity.   Do most folks who have solar chargers install a voltage regulator, and if so, does anyone have any recommendations on specific ones?
> 
> Frank
> 
> 
>> On Aug 21, 2016, at 1:43 PM, Rick <sloopblueheron at gmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Frank,
>> 
>> Without a voltage regulator between your charger and battery, a deep cycle
>> battery won't last very long.
>> 
>> Rick
>> 
>> On Sun, Aug 21, 2016 at 8:37 AM, Frank Goldsmith <goldsmith.cf at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>> 
>>> Rhodies,
>>> 
>>> My first post ? often a lurker, never a poster.
>>> 
>>> I?m thinking of getting a solar charger to use for keeping my deep-cycle
>>> battery topped off.  Does anyone have any advance on a brand, features,
>>> source, etc.?  And how does one run the leads down to where the battery
>>> sits, under the v-berth cushions?  It would seem that the wires could get
>>> crimped or could allow moisture to travel along them.
>>> 
>>> Thanks!
>>> 
>>> Frank Goldsmith
>>> Asheville, NC
>>> 1985 Rhodes 22 (refurbished around 2001)
>>> (Kept on Lake Keowee, SC)
>>> 
>>> __________________________________________________
>>> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/
>>> mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
>>> 
>>> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go
>>> to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
>>> __________________________________________________
>> __________________________________________________
>> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
>> 
>> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
>> __________________________________________________
> 
> __________________________________________________
> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
> 
> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> __________________________________________________


From jadoucet at snet.net  Sun Aug 21 16:31:05 2016
From: jadoucet at snet.net (Joseph Doucet)
Date: Sun, 21 Aug 2016 16:31:05 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Solar battery chargers
In-Reply-To: <9FABEB9C-C1C3-4A93-BF67-92AEC1D5F2E1@snet.net>
References: <CADNTwiX7puSA90EZhDcJdQ=7a07tJZ9uoNYASGdzSnVzfpSifA@mail.gmail.com>
 <E3A96AB1-D2D7-45FC-A877-760172CE5575@yahoo.com>
 <6A83474D-E52D-468A-8B5D-543B9032BACB@gmail.com>
 <CABkv36aAo8xOYvrrGeZZA_vup1MGewrJGazZJcYhQ7EVMBg04Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <0F8E82D1-7C71-4341-B26C-0FC5B6CD7C1B@gmail.com>
 <9FABEB9C-C1C3-4A93-BF67-92AEC1D5F2E1@snet.net>
Message-ID: <F64C06C1-3017-4955-AB44-B8819D399B1A@snet.net>

Sorry, I misread the first message. A 1.5w panel is just a battery maintainer. If you do not use the boat very much and there are not too many continuing drains, it will help maintain the battery, but it will not charge it very much . Use a diode to prevent discharge at night

No name Joe

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 21, 2016, at 4:17 PM, Joseph Doucet <jadoucet at snet.net> wrote:
> 
> Ok, we have a 50 w solar panel charging three 12 v, 40 amp-hr LiPo batteries that power the auxiliary motor. We use 3 separate controllers . 
> 
> For the boat systems battery we have a 5 w panel and  just use a diode to prevent the battery from discharging at night.
> 
> For a 15 w system I recommend a controller to prevent overcharging and overnight discharge .
> 
> Joe with an R22 with no name
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Aug 21, 2016, at 2:03 PM, Frank Goldsmith <goldsmith.cf at gmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Hmmm.  Thanks, Rick.  It sounds like I need to educate myself a bit more about direct-current electricity.   Do most folks who have solar chargers install a voltage regulator, and if so, does anyone have any recommendations on specific ones?
>> 
>> Frank
>> 
>> 
>>> On Aug 21, 2016, at 1:43 PM, Rick <sloopblueheron at gmail.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Frank,
>>> 
>>> Without a voltage regulator between your charger and battery, a deep cycle
>>> battery won't last very long.
>>> 
>>> Rick
>>> 
>>> On Sun, Aug 21, 2016 at 8:37 AM, Frank Goldsmith <goldsmith.cf at gmail.com>
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>>> Rhodies,
>>>> 
>>>> My first post ? often a lurker, never a poster.
>>>> 
>>>> I?m thinking of getting a solar charger to use for keeping my deep-cycle
>>>> battery topped off.  Does anyone have any advance on a brand, features,
>>>> source, etc.?  And how does one run the leads down to where the battery
>>>> sits, under the v-berth cushions?  It would seem that the wires could get
>>>> crimped or could allow moisture to travel along them.
>>>> 
>>>> Thanks!
>>>> 
>>>> Frank Goldsmith
>>>> Asheville, NC
>>>> 1985 Rhodes 22 (refurbished around 2001)
>>>> (Kept on Lake Keowee, SC)
>>>> 
>>>> __________________________________________________
>>>> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/
>>>> mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
>>>> 
>>>> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go
>>>> to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
>>>> __________________________________________________
>>> __________________________________________________
>>> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
>>> 
>>> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
>>> __________________________________________________
>> 
>> __________________________________________________
>> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
>> 
>> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
>> __________________________________________________
> 
> __________________________________________________
> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
> 
> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> __________________________________________________


From spreadgoodnews at gmail.com  Sun Aug 21 21:29:52 2016
From: spreadgoodnews at gmail.com (Goodness)
Date: Sun, 21 Aug 2016 21:29:52 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] deck shape
In-Reply-To: <007601d1fbad$1a0e3df0$4e2ab9d0$@ca>
References: <1801125827.14395278.1470872926762.JavaMail.yahoo.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1801125827.14395278.1470872926762.JavaMail.yahoo@mail.yahoo.com>
 <DM3PR18MB073187D1339CC24E3B1595B0D91E0@DM3PR18MB0731.namprd18.prod.outlook.com>
 <004e01d1f36f$5405ca00$fc115e00$@ca> <006f01d1fb3a$128758f0$37960ad0$@ca>
 <5D34D064-668F-4AB9-AD00-9DCA60B7CE7F@gmail.com>
 <007601d1fbad$1a0e3df0$4e2ab9d0$@ca>
Message-ID: <39CC07FF-5506-40E4-BA5A-751A90600E85@gmail.com>

Graham:  Being the foolish and impatient type, i used my back, stood up under the top pressing my back into it and put a 4x4 post with a cloth over the top under it to support then tapped the compression post and bulkhead in place with a mallet.  Then i tapped out the 4x4 and the compression post was firmly in place.  Right or wrong, I didnt give it 2 minutes of though!  I was certain i had the base at the right height as i had made templates before i deconstructed the rotten base.  I just assumed the wide span of the fiberglass head liner was heavy and sagged.  My deck always remained rock solid.
Bob (palatka)
> On Aug 21, 2016, at 9:08 AM, Graham Stewart <gstewart8 at cogeco.ca> wrote:
> 
> BoB:
> 
> Thanks for the feedback. That is very helpful.
> Yes, I had unstepped the mast and there was no load on the deck - not even
> snow. I made the new bulkhead pieces using the old ones as templates and
> placed them according to the fibreglass stubs that were in place to hold the
> old pieces. Everything seems to be coming together properly so I am pretty
> sure that the compression post base is in the correct place. The only
> difference is that the old base had been distorting under the force of the
> compression post over the years so the new piece corrected for that
> accounting for perhaps as much as 1/2 inch in the drop of the cabin top.
> What did you use to raise the cabin top in order to reinsert the compression
> post? How much force did it take?
> Thanks again,
> 
> 
> Graham Stewart
> Agile. R22, 1976
> Kingston Ontario Canada
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of
> Goodness
> Sent: August 20, 2016 11:09 PM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] deck shape
> 
> Graham:  i assume that your mast has remained unstepped during your
> restoration. 
> Remember you have an inner hull so your cabin top has two layers. The center
> of my cabin top interior dropped an inch immediately upon removing my
> compression post.  I had the floor bulkhead replaced within a week but had
> to lift the inner lining up to get the compression post to fit back into
> place.  It is nice and tight and the deck is level and firm.  Fiberglass is
> very flexible and strong. Make sure your base for the post is at the proper
> height however.  Do you have an original bulkehad as well?  That helps you
> guage that the compression post is in the right position.
> Good luck!
> 
> Bob (palatka)
> 
>> On Aug 20, 2016, at 7:25 PM, Graham Stewart <gstewart8 at cogeco.ca> wrote:
>> 
>> I am finally at the point in my restoration of Agile where am 
>> installing the compression post and main bulkhead. However, it appears 
>> that the cabin top has dropped by a full inch. I am left with the 
>> choice of either jacking up the deck so that the compression post fits 
>> or cutting the post back to fit the space. Does anyone know what the 
>> implications might be if I gradually jack up the cabin top? Might I 
>> crack the deck? Obviously I should have supported the cabin top when I 
>> removed the post but I didn't think it would deform when there was no load
> on it.
>> 
>> If anyone has any suggestions I would appreciate it. Otherwise I will 
>> try to rais the top very gradually and if that seems to require more 
>> than a moderate force I will live with the missing inch and tell 
>> myself that I am still growing.
>> 
>> 
>> Graham Stewart
>> Agile. R22, 1976
>> Kingston Ontario Canada
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> __________________________________________________
>> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to 
>> http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
>> 
>> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives 
>> go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list 
>> __________________________________________________
> __________________________________________________
> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to
> http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
> 
> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go to
> http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> __________________________________________________
> 
> __________________________________________________
> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
> 
> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> __________________________________________________

From gstewart8 at cogeco.ca  Sun Aug 21 22:32:41 2016
From: gstewart8 at cogeco.ca (Graham Stewart)
Date: Sun, 21 Aug 2016 22:32:41 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] deck shape
In-Reply-To: <39CC07FF-5506-40E4-BA5A-751A90600E85@gmail.com>
References: <1801125827.14395278.1470872926762.JavaMail.yahoo.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1801125827.14395278.1470872926762.JavaMail.yahoo@mail.yahoo.com>
 <DM3PR18MB073187D1339CC24E3B1595B0D91E0@DM3PR18MB0731.namprd18.prod.outlook.com>
 <004e01d1f36f$5405ca00$fc115e00$@ca> <006f01d1fb3a$128758f0$37960ad0$@ca>
 <5D34D064-668F-4AB9-AD00-9DCA60B7CE7F@gmail.com>
 <007601d1fbad$1a0e3df0$4e2ab9d0$@ca>
 <39CC07FF-5506-40E4-BA5A-751A90600E85@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <008f01d1fc1d$74e23d10$5ea6b730$@ca>

bob:

Interesting. The deck seems rock solid to me as well - being cored with at
least 1" of plywood. I can't see any sign of sag. I am  thinking that the
drop occurred because the boat was spreading. The hull below the gunnels is
very then and flexible.I had also removed the rivets at the hull deck joint
which might have also allowed for some movement. Now the joint is secured
with fibreglass, rivets, bolts and screws so it is pretty solid and unlikely
to have any play.  I will try your hi-tech suggestion with my back as a lift
as it is more than unlikely that I could do any damage that way. If it looks
like it isn't budging I will shorten the compression post. As usual, I
appreciate your feedback.

As a precautionary tale to others who might need to remove their compression
post, it might be wise to prop up the cabin top first.

Graham Stewart
Agile. R22, 1976
Kingston Ontario Canada




-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of
Goodness
Sent: August 21, 2016 9:30 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] deck shape

Graham:  Being the foolish and impatient type, i used my back, stood up
under the top pressing my back into it and put a 4x4 post with a cloth over
the top under it to support then tapped the compression post and bulkhead in
place with a mallet.  Then i tapped out the 4x4 and the compression post was
firmly in place.  Right or wrong, I didnt give it 2 minutes of though!  I
was certain i had the base at the right height as i had made templates
before i deconstructed the rotten base.  I just assumed the wide span of the
fiberglass head liner was heavy and sagged.  My deck always remained rock
solid.
Bob (palatka)
> On Aug 21, 2016, at 9:08 AM, Graham Stewart <gstewart8 at cogeco.ca> wrote:
> 
> BoB:
> 
> Thanks for the feedback. That is very helpful.
> Yes, I had unstepped the mast and there was no load on the deck - not 
> even snow. I made the new bulkhead pieces using the old ones as 
> templates and placed them according to the fibreglass stubs that were 
> in place to hold the old pieces. Everything seems to be coming 
> together properly so I am pretty sure that the compression post base 
> is in the correct place. The only difference is that the old base had 
> been distorting under the force of the compression post over the years 
> so the new piece corrected for that accounting for perhaps as much as 1/2
inch in the drop of the cabin top.
> What did you use to raise the cabin top in order to reinsert the 
> compression post? How much force did it take?
> Thanks again,
> 
> 
> Graham Stewart
> Agile. R22, 1976
> Kingston Ontario Canada
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On 
> Behalf Of Goodness
> Sent: August 20, 2016 11:09 PM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] deck shape
> 
> Graham:  i assume that your mast has remained unstepped during your 
> restoration.
> Remember you have an inner hull so your cabin top has two layers. The 
> center of my cabin top interior dropped an inch immediately upon 
> removing my compression post.  I had the floor bulkhead replaced 
> within a week but had to lift the inner lining up to get the 
> compression post to fit back into place.  It is nice and tight and the 
> deck is level and firm.  Fiberglass is very flexible and strong. Make 
> sure your base for the post is at the proper height however.  Do you 
> have an original bulkehad as well?  That helps you guage that the
compression post is in the right position.
> Good luck!
> 
> Bob (palatka)
> 
>> On Aug 20, 2016, at 7:25 PM, Graham Stewart <gstewart8 at cogeco.ca> wrote:
>> 
>> I am finally at the point in my restoration of Agile where am 
>> installing the compression post and main bulkhead. However, it 
>> appears that the cabin top has dropped by a full inch. I am left with 
>> the choice of either jacking up the deck so that the compression post 
>> fits or cutting the post back to fit the space. Does anyone know what 
>> the implications might be if I gradually jack up the cabin top? Might 
>> I crack the deck? Obviously I should have supported the cabin top 
>> when I removed the post but I didn't think it would deform when there 
>> was no load
> on it.
>> 
>> If anyone has any suggestions I would appreciate it. Otherwise I will 
>> try to rais the top very gradually and if that seems to require more 
>> than a moderate force I will live with the missing inch and tell 
>> myself that I am still growing.
>> 
>> 
>> Graham Stewart
>> Agile. R22, 1976
>> Kingston Ontario Canada
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> __________________________________________________
>> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to
>> http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
>> 
>> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and 
>> archives go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list 
>> __________________________________________________
> __________________________________________________
> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to
> http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
> 
> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives 
> go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list 
> __________________________________________________
> 
> __________________________________________________
> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to 
> http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
> 
> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives 
> go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list 
> __________________________________________________
__________________________________________________
To subscribe/unsubscribe go to
http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list

For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go to
http://www.rhodes22.org/list
__________________________________________________


From gjnovotny at comcast.net  Mon Aug 22 09:41:03 2016
From: gjnovotny at comcast.net (Gary Novotny)
Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2016 09:41:03 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] deck shape
In-Reply-To: <007601d1fbad$1a0e3df0$4e2ab9d0$@ca>
References: <1801125827.14395278.1470872926762.JavaMail.yahoo.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1801125827.14395278.1470872926762.JavaMail.yahoo@mail.yahoo.com>
 <DM3PR18MB073187D1339CC24E3B1595B0D91E0@DM3PR18MB0731.namprd18.prod.outlook.com>
 <004e01d1f36f$5405ca00$fc115e00$@ca> <006f01d1fb3a$128758f0$37960ad0$@ca>
 <5D34D064-668F-4AB9-AD00-9DCA60B7CE7F@gmail.com>
 <007601d1fbad$1a0e3df0$4e2ab9d0$@ca>
Message-ID: <a89c98b8-cde4-1b6b-bbb1-4438caa9656a@comcast.net>

Graham,

When I replaced my bulkhead, I placed a Jack on a 2x 10 laying flat on 
the floor (high side) and used a 2x8 a temp compression post to press on 
a 8" square piece of 3/4" thick plywood on the underside of the cabin to 
raise the cabin top up about 3/4". This worked easily to restore the 
cabin to the proper height and relocate the compression post to the 
proper height.



Gary
SV Moon Shadow.
1978 Rhodes 22
Ft Pierce, Fl

On 8/21/2016 9:08 AM, Graham Stewart wrote:
> BoB:
>
>   Thanks for the feedback. That is very helpful.
> Yes, I had unstepped the mast and there was no load on the deck - not even
> snow. I made the new bulkhead pieces using the old ones as templates and
> placed them according to the fibreglass stubs that were in place to hold the
> old pieces. Everything seems to be coming together properly so I am pretty
> sure that the compression post base is in the correct place. The only
> difference is that the old base had been distorting under the force of the
> compression post over the years so the new piece corrected for that
> accounting for perhaps as much as 1/2 inch in the drop of the cabin top.
> What did you use to raise the cabin top in order to reinsert the compression
> post? How much force did it take?
> Thanks again,
>
>
> Graham Stewart
> Agile. R22, 1976
> Kingston Ontario Canada
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of
> Goodness
> Sent: August 20, 2016 11:09 PM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] deck shape
>
> Graham:  i assume that your mast has remained unstepped during your
> restoration.
> Remember you have an inner hull so your cabin top has two layers. The center
> of my cabin top interior dropped an inch immediately upon removing my
> compression post.  I had the floor bulkhead replaced within a week but had
> to lift the inner lining up to get the compression post to fit back into
> place.  It is nice and tight and the deck is level and firm.  Fiberglass is
> very flexible and strong. Make sure your base for the post is at the proper
> height however.  Do you have an original bulkehad as well?  That helps you
> guage that the compression post is in the right position.
> Good luck!
>
> Bob (palatka)
>
>> On Aug 20, 2016, at 7:25 PM, Graham Stewart <gstewart8 at cogeco.ca> wrote:
>>
>> I am finally at the point in my restoration of Agile where am
>> installing the compression post and main bulkhead. However, it appears
>> that the cabin top has dropped by a full inch. I am left with the
>> choice of either jacking up the deck so that the compression post fits
>> or cutting the post back to fit the space. Does anyone know what the
>> implications might be if I gradually jack up the cabin top? Might I
>> crack the deck? Obviously I should have supported the cabin top when I
>> removed the post but I didn't think it would deform when there was no load
> on it.
>> If anyone has any suggestions I would appreciate it. Otherwise I will
>> try to rais the top very gradually and if that seems to require more
>> than a moderate force I will live with the missing inch and tell
>> myself that I am still growing.
>>
>>
>> Graham Stewart
>> Agile. R22, 1976
>> Kingston Ontario Canada
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> __________________________________________________
>> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to
>> http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
>>
>> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives
>> go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
>> __________________________________________________
> __________________________________________________
> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to
> http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
>
> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go to
> http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> __________________________________________________
>
> __________________________________________________
> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
>
> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> __________________________________________________
>


From sloopblueheron at gmail.com  Tue Aug 23 15:31:08 2016
From: sloopblueheron at gmail.com (Rick)
Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2016 15:31:08 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Solar battery chargers
In-Reply-To: <0F8E82D1-7C71-4341-B26C-0FC5B6CD7C1B@gmail.com>
References: <CADNTwiX7puSA90EZhDcJdQ=7a07tJZ9uoNYASGdzSnVzfpSifA@mail.gmail.com>
 <E3A96AB1-D2D7-45FC-A877-760172CE5575@yahoo.com>
 <6A83474D-E52D-468A-8B5D-543B9032BACB@gmail.com>
 <CABkv36aAo8xOYvrrGeZZA_vup1MGewrJGazZJcYhQ7EVMBg04Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <0F8E82D1-7C71-4341-B26C-0FC5B6CD7C1B@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CABkv36Z7ugTWOz4DLs+JqgXhQLchvhNBqVZCY6qo=3=Lj8FMZg@mail.gmail.com>

Low voltage charging of a deep cycle battery shortens the life of the
battery.  Unlike car and farm batteries, deep cycle batteries require a
minimum charging voltage to "clean" the plates.  High voltage charging has
a similar effect by loading all the charge onto the surface.

The voltage output of a solar panel varies according to sun intensity and
temperature, and it reverses at night.  I've had good luck with a Sunsei
regulator and it includes a diode in case the solar panel lacks one.

There is a sequence to connecting the battery when the panel is charging.
Since I can't remember it, I just cover the solar panel with a seat cushion
when I hook up the battery.

Rick

From chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com  Wed Aug 24 22:40:19 2016
From: chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com (Chris Geankoplis)
Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2016 22:40:19 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Solar battery chargers
In-Reply-To: <CACNZp-0W9Jia-hhV1YtMRwWTRwecKMtUcp+w6ubtWgVBKJCBJw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CADNTwiX7puSA90EZhDcJdQ=7a07tJZ9uoNYASGdzSnVzfpSifA@mail.gmail.com>
 <E3A96AB1-D2D7-45FC-A877-760172CE5575@yahoo.com>
 <6A83474D-E52D-468A-8B5D-543B9032BACB@gmail.com>
 <CALbDJ9bOuoP0p4ixzmcMHzvrivAeXji+TxMy8KfFROtbLR01Gg@mail.gmail.com>
 <8255ABA8-F12F-44A9-A95E-1751A66724F4@gmail.com>
 <CACNZp-0W9Jia-hhV1YtMRwWTRwecKMtUcp+w6ubtWgVBKJCBJw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CADNTwiUEk83x0G0K3LzrsVisfgmJQGTbpfg9Vys4vF0mLShPCQ@mail.gmail.com>

If the DC socket is wired direct to the battery with its own inline fuse
then the system works fine.  Pretty standard procedure for a lot of boats.

Chris Geankoplis
Enosis

On Sun, Aug 21, 2016 at 10:46 AM, Chris Bedford <clbedford at gmail.com> wrote:

> I had read someplace, though I don't know if it's true, that the DC socket
> needs to be active (i.e., power flowing to it), so it may not work if the
> battery is turned off.
>
> Richard, is that true in your experience, or was I lead astray by some
> yahoo on the internet?
>
> Cheers,
>
> Chris
>
> On Aug 21, 2016 9:13 AM, "Frank Goldsmith" <goldsmith.cf at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Thanks, Richard.  A cheap and not elegant solution is fine by me.  I take
> > it the charger reverses the flow of the current to the battery when
> plugged
> > into the cigar lighter?  I had not thought of that.
> >
> > Frank
> >
> > > On Aug 21, 2016, at 8:55 AM, Richard Beytagh <rbeytagh at gmail.com>
> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi Frank..this is not an elegant solution, but it's cheap and works
> well
> > > for a single battery. Buy a 1.5w solar charger from Harbor Freight. Put
> > it
> > > on your cabin top and lead the cable under the pop-top and plug it into
> > the
> > > DC power plug (cigar lighter).  This has kept my Wal-Mart deep-cycle
> > > battery charged for 3 years so far.
> > >
> > > Cheers
> > > S/V Waif
> > >
> > > On Aug 21, 2016 8:37 AM, "Frank Goldsmith" <goldsmith.cf at gmail.com>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > >> Rhodies,
> > >>
> > >> My first post ? often a lurker, never a poster.
> > >>
> > >> I?m thinking of getting a solar charger to use for keeping my
> deep-cycle
> > >> battery topped off.  Does anyone have any advance on a brand,
> features,
> > >> source, etc.?  And how does one run the leads down to where the
> battery
> > >> sits, under the v-berth cushions?  It would seem that the wires could
> > get
> > >> crimped or could allow moisture to travel along them.
> > >>
> > >> Thanks!
> > >>
> > >> Frank Goldsmith
> > >> Asheville, NC
> > >> 1985 Rhodes 22 (refurbished around 2001)
> > >> (Kept on Lake Keowee, SC)
> > >>
> > >> __________________________________________________
> > >> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/
> > >> mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
> > >>
> > >> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives
> > go
> > >> to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> > >> __________________________________________________
> > >>
> > > __________________________________________________
> > > To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/
> > mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
> > >
> > > For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives
> > go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> > > __________________________________________________
> >
> > __________________________________________________
> > To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/
> > mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
> >
> > For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go
> > to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> > __________________________________________________
> >
> __________________________________________________
> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/
> mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
>
> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go
> to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> __________________________________________________
>

From chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com  Wed Aug 24 22:43:23 2016
From: chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com (Chris Geankoplis)
Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2016 22:43:23 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] deck shape
In-Reply-To: <39CC07FF-5506-40E4-BA5A-751A90600E85@gmail.com>
References: <1801125827.14395278.1470872926762.JavaMail.yahoo.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1801125827.14395278.1470872926762.JavaMail.yahoo@mail.yahoo.com>
 <DM3PR18MB073187D1339CC24E3B1595B0D91E0@DM3PR18MB0731.namprd18.prod.outlook.com>
 <004e01d1f36f$5405ca00$fc115e00$@ca> <006f01d1fb3a$128758f0$37960ad0$@ca>
 <5D34D064-668F-4AB9-AD00-9DCA60B7CE7F@gmail.com>
 <007601d1fbad$1a0e3df0$4e2ab9d0$@ca>
 <39CC07FF-5506-40E4-BA5A-751A90600E85@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CADNTwiVxqd5eRMxjuyCFjWnQtONfSwTTEXP9Aq3Hegf0vf3V8Q@mail.gmail.com>

Bob,
    Why do I have a picture of you as Atlas?
Chris G

On Sun, Aug 21, 2016 at 9:29 PM, Goodness <spreadgoodnews at gmail.com> wrote:

> Graham:  Being the foolish and impatient type, i used my back, stood up
> under the top pressing my back into it and put a 4x4 post with a cloth over
> the top under it to support then tapped the compression post and bulkhead
> in place with a mallet.  Then i tapped out the 4x4 and the compression post
> was firmly in place.  Right or wrong, I didnt give it 2 minutes of though!
> I was certain i had the base at the right height as i had made templates
> before i deconstructed the rotten base.  I just assumed the wide span of
> the fiberglass head liner was heavy and sagged.  My deck always remained
> rock solid.
> Bob (palatka)
> > On Aug 21, 2016, at 9:08 AM, Graham Stewart <gstewart8 at cogeco.ca> wrote:
> >
> > BoB:
> >
> > Thanks for the feedback. That is very helpful.
> > Yes, I had unstepped the mast and there was no load on the deck - not
> even
> > snow. I made the new bulkhead pieces using the old ones as templates and
> > placed them according to the fibreglass stubs that were in place to hold
> the
> > old pieces. Everything seems to be coming together properly so I am
> pretty
> > sure that the compression post base is in the correct place. The only
> > difference is that the old base had been distorting under the force of
> the
> > compression post over the years so the new piece corrected for that
> > accounting for perhaps as much as 1/2 inch in the drop of the cabin top.
> > What did you use to raise the cabin top in order to reinsert the
> compression
> > post? How much force did it take?
> > Thanks again,
> >
> >
> > Graham Stewart
> > Agile. R22, 1976
> > Kingston Ontario Canada
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On
> Behalf Of
> > Goodness
> > Sent: August 20, 2016 11:09 PM
> > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
> > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] deck shape
> >
> > Graham:  i assume that your mast has remained unstepped during your
> > restoration.
> > Remember you have an inner hull so your cabin top has two layers. The
> center
> > of my cabin top interior dropped an inch immediately upon removing my
> > compression post.  I had the floor bulkhead replaced within a week but
> had
> > to lift the inner lining up to get the compression post to fit back into
> > place.  It is nice and tight and the deck is level and firm.  Fiberglass
> is
> > very flexible and strong. Make sure your base for the post is at the
> proper
> > height however.  Do you have an original bulkehad as well?  That helps
> you
> > guage that the compression post is in the right position.
> > Good luck!
> >
> > Bob (palatka)
> >
> >> On Aug 20, 2016, at 7:25 PM, Graham Stewart <gstewart8 at cogeco.ca>
> wrote:
> >>
> >> I am finally at the point in my restoration of Agile where am
> >> installing the compression post and main bulkhead. However, it appears
> >> that the cabin top has dropped by a full inch. I am left with the
> >> choice of either jacking up the deck so that the compression post fits
> >> or cutting the post back to fit the space. Does anyone know what the
> >> implications might be if I gradually jack up the cabin top? Might I
> >> crack the deck? Obviously I should have supported the cabin top when I
> >> removed the post but I didn't think it would deform when there was no
> load
> > on it.
> >>
> >> If anyone has any suggestions I would appreciate it. Otherwise I will
> >> try to rais the top very gradually and if that seems to require more
> >> than a moderate force I will live with the missing inch and tell
> >> myself that I am still growing.
> >>
> >>
> >> Graham Stewart
> >> Agile. R22, 1976
> >> Kingston Ontario Canada
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> __________________________________________________
> >> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to
> >> http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
> >>
> >> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives
> >> go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> >> __________________________________________________
> > __________________________________________________
> > To subscribe/unsubscribe go to
> > http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
> >
> > For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives
> go to
> > http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> > __________________________________________________
> >
> > __________________________________________________
> > To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/
> mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
> >
> > For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives
> go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> > __________________________________________________
> __________________________________________________
> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/
> mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
>
> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go
> to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> __________________________________________________
>

From chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com  Wed Aug 24 22:51:50 2016
From: chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com (Chris Geankoplis)
Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2016 22:51:50 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] NRe: ***POSSIBLE SPAM*** Re: Solar battery
	chargers
In-Reply-To: <50173.107.220.129.217.1471807710.squirrel@quickpop.sssnet.com>
References: <CADNTwiX7puSA90EZhDcJdQ=7a07tJZ9uoNYASGdzSnVzfpSifA@mail.gmail.com>
 <E3A96AB1-D2D7-45FC-A877-760172CE5575@yahoo.com>
 <6A83474D-E52D-468A-8B5D-543B9032BACB@gmail.com>
 <CABkv36aAo8xOYvrrGeZZA_vup1MGewrJGazZJcYhQ7EVMBg04Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <0F8E82D1-7C71-4341-B26C-0FC5B6CD7C1B@gmail.com>
 <50173.107.220.129.217.1471807710.squirrel@quickpop.sssnet.com>
Message-ID: <CADNTwiX_QYeU0y0o+Bk3EzjntLqsgBxzHBPb+HKL1R1KjOUW1g@mail.gmail.com>

For several years when I was cruising in Mexico and The San Juan Islands
and up in Desolation Sound in Canada I used a 50W panel which kept up with
all our needs.  Once I started using the CPAP breathing machine overnight
every night it wouldn't keep up if we had a couple of cloudy days or never
used the motor for a couple of days.  With that in mind I switched to a
100W panel and have never had a low batter(s) for the 4 months we were in
Mexico.  Obviously both of these panels required a proper regulator.  You
can go on line and research the right one for your particular battery and
needs.  I think very few people will have the need for the amount of
electricity that we use when living on Enosis.  When not cruising I mounted
a 15W which kept the batteries topped off when we kept it up in the Cascade
lakes.  We often overnighted and even if the batters were down in the 12.3
range, they were recovered by the time we use it again.

Chris Geankoplis
Enosis
On the Chesapeake (for a couple of months)

On Sun, Aug 21, 2016 at 3:28 PM, <cjlowE at sssnet.com> wrote:

> A 1.5 watt panel most likely won't cook a battery very quickly. I live in
> Ohio,have a 10 watt panel, and my battery's last about six years.
>  Some things to consider before purchasing:
> What are you wanting to power (load) ? If you use GPS a lot,anchor out (
> anchor light), run a DVD player or other high amperage loads,a 1.5 watt
> panel won't keep up.
> Another thing to consider is do you have any parasitic loads, like a clock
> on a radio,memory for channels on the radio or powering an anchor light on
> a mooring?
> Are your lights LEDs? How much do you yes them? LEDs use about 1/10 of the
> watts of regular lights.
>
> If I were you,I would buy the 1.5 watt panel from harbor freight and while
> there,buy their cheep multi- meter (< 5 $). Then you can check the state
> of charge of your battery. If your battery has 12.8 volts, leave the solar
> panel unplugged. When it gets down to 12.5 V ,plug it back in until it
> gets back up to 12.8 V. If it never gets back up to full charge, you are
> using more watts than your solar panel can replace and you need a bigger
> panel.
> That 12.8 volts is not set in stone, that is what a new battery should
> read. An older battery may read12.3 or12.4 .
> You should not let a battery get much below 12 volts before charging, it's
> real hard on them.
>  If you find that your panel is consistently overcharging the battery, you
> can put a piece of window screen over the panel to partially block some
> of the sun or mount the panel where some of the rig ( mast or boom) cast
> a shadow over the panel during the arc of the sun.
> I mounted my panel with 3 little squares of Velcro, if the wind is up I
> just bring it in the cabin.
> Just a few things to think about,
>
> Jerry Lowe
> S/V Country Rhodes '86
>
>
>
>
> .  Thanks, Rick.  It sounds like I need to educate myself a bit more
> > about direct-current electricity.   Do most folks who have solar chargers
> > install a voltage regulator, and if so, does anyone have any
> > recommendations on specific ones?
> >
> > Frank
> >
> >
> >> On Aug 21, 2016, at 1:43 PM, Rick <sloopblueheron at gmail.com> wrote:
> >>
> >> Frank,
> >>
> >> Without a voltage regulator between your charger and battery, a deep
> >> cycle
> >> battery won't last very long.
> >>
> >> Rick
> >>
> >> On Sun, Aug 21, 2016 at 8:37 AM, Frank Goldsmith
> >> <goldsmith.cf at gmail.com>
> >> wrote:
> >>
> >>> Rhodies,
> >>>
> >>> My first post ??? often a lurker, never a poster.
> >>>
> >>> I???m thinking of getting a solar charger to use for keeping my
> >>> deep-cycle
> >>> battery topped off.  Does anyone have any advance on a brand, features,
> >>> source, etc.?  And how does one run the leads down to where the battery
> >>> sits, under the v-berth cushions?  It would seem that the wires could
> >>> get
> >>> crimped or could allow moisture to travel along them.
> >>>
> >>> Thanks!
> >>>
> >>> Frank Goldsmith
> >>> Asheville, NC
> >>> 1985 Rhodes 22 (refurbished around 2001)
> >>> (Kept on Lake Keowee, SC)
> >>>
> >>> __________________________________________________
> >>> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/
> >>> mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
> >>>
> >>> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives
> >>> go
> >>> to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> >>> __________________________________________________
> >>>
> >> __________________________________________________
> >> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to
> >> http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
> >>
> >> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives
> >> go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> >> __________________________________________________
> >
> > __________________________________________________
> > To subscribe/unsubscribe go to
> > http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
> >
> > For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go
> > to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> > __________________________________________________
> >
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/
> mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
>
> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go
> to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> __________________________________________________
>

From gstewart8 at cogeco.ca  Thu Aug 25 00:23:20 2016
From: gstewart8 at cogeco.ca (Graham Stewart)
Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2016 00:23:20 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Tessilmare Radial Flexible Rub Rail
In-Reply-To: <CADNTwiX_QYeU0y0o+Bk3EzjntLqsgBxzHBPb+HKL1R1KjOUW1g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CADNTwiX7puSA90EZhDcJdQ=7a07tJZ9uoNYASGdzSnVzfpSifA@mail.gmail.com>
 <E3A96AB1-D2D7-45FC-A877-760172CE5575@yahoo.com>
 <6A83474D-E52D-468A-8B5D-543B9032BACB@gmail.com>
 <CABkv36aAo8xOYvrrGeZZA_vup1MGewrJGazZJcYhQ7EVMBg04Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <0F8E82D1-7C71-4341-B26C-0FC5B6CD7C1B@gmail.com>
 <50173.107.220.129.217.1471807710.squirrel@quickpop.sssnet.com>
 <CADNTwiX_QYeU0y0o+Bk3EzjntLqsgBxzHBPb+HKL1R1KjOUW1g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <017901d1fe88$6987cd50$3c9767f0$@ca>

For those who might be replacing their rub rail I thought I would post some notes and a picture of my boat after installing the Tessilmare Radial Flexible Rub Rail system.(see: http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=56893 

The system comes in two parts: a plastic track and a rubber bumper. The track comes in 6' lengths and the rubber rail is continuous in the length you choose. I ordered 55' and that worked out fine with about 3 feet extra.

The primary reason I choose this system was because installing it can be accomplished working alone. I didn't want to have to find and then depend on someone to help. Unlike the more popular Tacho system the rubber rail does not need to be stretched during installation. In fact, I was able to install it alone so that worked out fine. However, the time it took was considerably longer than what was implied in the sales material.

The track goes on with screws. It is fairly soft plastic and if the screws are driven in too tight the track bulges around the screw and this deformation shows when the rubber rail is installed. As it turned out, and in spite of various approaches,  I was not able to find the perfect setting where the screw was sufficiently tight without creating the bulge. The only way I could avoid the bulges in the rubber rail was to use a box cutter to shave off the sides of each bulge on the track. That was not difficult but it was time consuming. You can see in the attached picture slight dimples in the rubber rail where each screw is located. You only see them when you look along the rail with the light reflecting off the surface.

They recommend screws but say that rivets could also be used. Rivets would compress the track much more tightly than screws and would bulge the track considerably more so I don't see rivets as being practical. So unlike the original rub rail I was not able to use rivets to install the rail and secure the hull/deck join at the same time. I riveted the join first and then installed the track with screws. I used 1 1/2" screws but should have used 1" screws.

Screws go in easily and are spaced every 6 inches. After drilling the hole for the screw I squeezed a dab of sealant into the hole. I suspect that had little effect in creating a seal - but I can't be sure.

The sales material implied that the track can be bent around corners and the bow without the use of heat. Once you get the kit you find out that a bend in excess of a 40 mm radius required the application of heat. In the case of the Rhodes the bow and both ends of the transom are too sharp to avoid using the heat. That said, it does not require a lot of heat. I used my heat gun on the low setting and moved it back and forward along the track while I slowly  bent it around the bend. However, you need to put a length of wire under both tabs in the track to avoid having them  lose their shape and make it impossible to fit the rubber rail later. I used pieces of coated clothes line wire and that worked perfectly. 

To install the rubber rail you bend it back to spread the tabs that grab onto the track and roll the rail forward. By the time I was finished I had developed the method and was progressing well but it took me a long time and multiple tries at first. It can be done alone. If someone is there to help they can manage the length of rail. I did this on a hot day and I suspect thaat made the rail material much more pliable. I am not sure that I would have been able to install the rail had it been cold.

At the sharp corners a gap forms between the rubber rail and the boat so I filled the space with black Boat Life sealant.

The kit comes with plastic caps for the end. You can either put two end caps on or use a join piece to end them together. I put a screw through the ends of the rubber rail to make sure it  did not shrink back and then attached the link piece with a screw. The problem I ran into, however, was that the upper pintel on the rudder would not clear the cap. After considering various options I decided to shorten the pintel pin, (or is that called the gudgeon?), just enough to allow the rub rail to be cleared and then drilled a hole in the pin so that I could secure it with a pull pin. That seemed to work fine.

Unlike the Taco system, there is no insert that goes into the track that will give a two-colour look - which can be attractive.

Attached is a picture of the rail attached. Not having installed the Tacho system I really can't say whether the Tessilmare is better or easier to install. Certainly the rubber rail seems beefy and should provide good protection.


Graham Stewart
Agile. R22, 1976
Kingston Ontario Canada





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From rlowe at vt.edu  Thu Aug 25 08:56:47 2016
From: rlowe at vt.edu (Lowe, Rob)
Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2016 12:56:47 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Tessilmare Radial Flexible Rub Rail
In-Reply-To: <017901d1fe88$6987cd50$3c9767f0$@ca>
References: <CADNTwiX7puSA90EZhDcJdQ=7a07tJZ9uoNYASGdzSnVzfpSifA@mail.gmail.com>
 <E3A96AB1-D2D7-45FC-A877-760172CE5575@yahoo.com>
 <6A83474D-E52D-468A-8B5D-543B9032BACB@gmail.com>
 <CABkv36aAo8xOYvrrGeZZA_vup1MGewrJGazZJcYhQ7EVMBg04Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <0F8E82D1-7C71-4341-B26C-0FC5B6CD7C1B@gmail.com>
 <50173.107.220.129.217.1471807710.squirrel@quickpop.sssnet.com>
 <CADNTwiX_QYeU0y0o+Bk3EzjntLqsgBxzHBPb+HKL1R1KjOUW1g@mail.gmail.com>
 <017901d1fe88$6987cd50$3c9767f0$@ca>
Message-ID: <17da7122ac654bbaae5bcb0dc9a2dd74@MARCONI.cc.w2k.vt.edu>

Graham,
Looks pretty good!  This product looks more robust that what comes with the boat.  Very nice.  We appreciate you taking the time to document your efforts too.  All this goes into the archives for future use. - Rob

Rob Lowe


-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Graham Stewart
Sent: Thursday, August 25, 2016 12:23 AM
To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List'
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Tessilmare Radial Flexible Rub Rail

For those who might be replacing their rub rail I thought I would post some notes and a picture of my boat after installing the Tessilmare Radial Flexible Rub Rail system.(see: http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=56893 

The system comes in two parts: a plastic track and a rubber bumper. The track comes in 6' lengths and the rubber rail is continuous in the length you choose. I ordered 55' and that worked out fine with about 3 feet extra.

The primary reason I choose this system was because installing it can be accomplished working alone. I didn't want to have to find and then depend on someone to help. Unlike the more popular Tacho system the rubber rail does not need to be stretched during installation. In fact, I was able to install it alone so that worked out fine. However, the time it took was considerably longer than what was implied in the sales material.

The track goes on with screws. It is fairly soft plastic and if the screws are driven in too tight the track bulges around the screw and this deformation shows when the rubber rail is installed. As it turned out, and in spite of various approaches,  I was not able to find the perfect setting where the screw was sufficiently tight without creating the bulge. The only way I could avoid the bulges in the rubber rail was to use a box cutter to shave off the sides of each bulge on the track. That was not difficult but it was time consuming. You can see in the attached picture slight dimples in the rubber rail where each screw is located. You only see them when you look along the rail with the light reflecting off the surface.

They recommend screws but say that rivets could also be used. Rivets would compress the track much more tightly than screws and would bulge the track considerably more so I don't see rivets as being practical. So unlike the original rub rail I was not able to use rivets to install the rail and secure the hull/deck join at the same time. I riveted the join first and then installed the track with screws. I used 1 1/2" screws but should have used 1" screws.

Screws go in easily and are spaced every 6 inches. After drilling the hole for the screw I squeezed a dab of sealant into the hole. I suspect that had little effect in creating a seal - but I can't be sure.

The sales material implied that the track can be bent around corners and the bow without the use of heat. Once you get the kit you find out that a bend in excess of a 40 mm radius required the application of heat. In the case of the Rhodes the bow and both ends of the transom are too sharp to avoid using the heat. That said, it does not require a lot of heat. I used my heat gun on the low setting and moved it back and forward along the track while I slowly  bent it around the bend. However, you need to put a length of wire under both tabs in the track to avoid having them  lose their shape and make it impossible to fit the rubber rail later. I used pieces of coated clothes line wire and that worked perfectly. 

To install the rubber rail you bend it back to spread the tabs that grab onto the track and roll the rail forward. By the time I was finished I had developed the method and was progressing well but it took me a long time and multiple tries at first. It can be done alone. If someone is there to help they can manage the length of rail. I did this on a hot day and I suspect thaat made the rail material much more pliable. I am not sure that I would have been able to install the rail had it been cold.

At the sharp corners a gap forms between the rubber rail and the boat so I filled the space with black Boat Life sealant.

The kit comes with plastic caps for the end. You can either put two end caps on or use a join piece to end them together. I put a screw through the ends of the rubber rail to make sure it  did not shrink back and then attached the link piece with a screw. The problem I ran into, however, was that the upper pintel on the rudder would not clear the cap. After considering various options I decided to shorten the pintel pin, (or is that called the gudgeon?), just enough to allow the rub rail to be cleared and then drilled a hole in the pin so that I could secure it with a pull pin. That seemed to work fine.

Unlike the Taco system, there is no insert that goes into the track that will give a two-colour look - which can be attractive.

Attached is a picture of the rail attached. Not having installed the Tacho system I really can't say whether the Tessilmare is better or easier to install. Certainly the rubber rail seems beefy and should provide good protection.


Graham Stewart
Agile. R22, 1976
Kingston Ontario Canada





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__________________________________________________
To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list

For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list __________________________________________________

From spreadgoodnews at gmail.com  Thu Aug 25 20:32:27 2016
From: spreadgoodnews at gmail.com (Goodness)
Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2016 20:32:27 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] deck shape
In-Reply-To: <CADNTwiVxqd5eRMxjuyCFjWnQtONfSwTTEXP9Aq3Hegf0vf3V8Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1801125827.14395278.1470872926762.JavaMail.yahoo.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1801125827.14395278.1470872926762.JavaMail.yahoo@mail.yahoo.com>
 <DM3PR18MB073187D1339CC24E3B1595B0D91E0@DM3PR18MB0731.namprd18.prod.outlook.com>
 <004e01d1f36f$5405ca00$fc115e00$@ca> <006f01d1fb3a$128758f0$37960ad0$@ca>
 <5D34D064-668F-4AB9-AD00-9DCA60B7CE7F@gmail.com>
 <007601d1fbad$1a0e3df0$4e2ab9d0$@ca>
 <39CC07FF-5506-40E4-BA5A-751A90600E85@gmail.com>
 <CADNTwiVxqd5eRMxjuyCFjWnQtONfSwTTEXP9Aq3Hegf0vf3V8Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <90CDA12D-6C5F-43AA-B25D-529AFE81E08D@gmail.com>

Haha! Strong back. Very small head!

Bob (palatka)

> On Aug 24, 2016, at 10:43 PM, Chris Geankoplis <chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Bob,
>    Why do I have a picture of you as Atlas?
> Chris G
> 
>> On Sun, Aug 21, 2016 at 9:29 PM, Goodness <spreadgoodnews at gmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Graham:  Being the foolish and impatient type, i used my back, stood up
>> under the top pressing my back into it and put a 4x4 post with a cloth over
>> the top under it to support then tapped the compression post and bulkhead
>> in place with a mallet.  Then i tapped out the 4x4 and the compression post
>> was firmly in place.  Right or wrong, I didnt give it 2 minutes of though!
>> I was certain i had the base at the right height as i had made templates
>> before i deconstructed the rotten base.  I just assumed the wide span of
>> the fiberglass head liner was heavy and sagged.  My deck always remained
>> rock solid.
>> Bob (palatka)
>>> On Aug 21, 2016, at 9:08 AM, Graham Stewart <gstewart8 at cogeco.ca> wrote:
>>> 
>>> BoB:
>>> 
>>> Thanks for the feedback. That is very helpful.
>>> Yes, I had unstepped the mast and there was no load on the deck - not
>> even
>>> snow. I made the new bulkhead pieces using the old ones as templates and
>>> placed them according to the fibreglass stubs that were in place to hold
>> the
>>> old pieces. Everything seems to be coming together properly so I am
>> pretty
>>> sure that the compression post base is in the correct place. The only
>>> difference is that the old base had been distorting under the force of
>> the
>>> compression post over the years so the new piece corrected for that
>>> accounting for perhaps as much as 1/2 inch in the drop of the cabin top.
>>> What did you use to raise the cabin top in order to reinsert the
>> compression
>>> post? How much force did it take?
>>> Thanks again,
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Graham Stewart
>>> Agile. R22, 1976
>>> Kingston Ontario Canada
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On
>> Behalf Of
>>> Goodness
>>> Sent: August 20, 2016 11:09 PM
>>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
>>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] deck shape
>>> 
>>> Graham:  i assume that your mast has remained unstepped during your
>>> restoration.
>>> Remember you have an inner hull so your cabin top has two layers. The
>> center
>>> of my cabin top interior dropped an inch immediately upon removing my
>>> compression post.  I had the floor bulkhead replaced within a week but
>> had
>>> to lift the inner lining up to get the compression post to fit back into
>>> place.  It is nice and tight and the deck is level and firm.  Fiberglass
>> is
>>> very flexible and strong. Make sure your base for the post is at the
>> proper
>>> height however.  Do you have an original bulkehad as well?  That helps
>> you
>>> guage that the compression post is in the right position.
>>> Good luck!
>>> 
>>> Bob (palatka)
>>> 
>>>> On Aug 20, 2016, at 7:25 PM, Graham Stewart <gstewart8 at cogeco.ca>
>> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> I am finally at the point in my restoration of Agile where am
>>>> installing the compression post and main bulkhead. However, it appears
>>>> that the cabin top has dropped by a full inch. I am left with the
>>>> choice of either jacking up the deck so that the compression post fits
>>>> or cutting the post back to fit the space. Does anyone know what the
>>>> implications might be if I gradually jack up the cabin top? Might I
>>>> crack the deck? Obviously I should have supported the cabin top when I
>>>> removed the post but I didn't think it would deform when there was no
>> load
>>> on it.
>>>> 
>>>> If anyone has any suggestions I would appreciate it. Otherwise I will
>>>> try to rais the top very gradually and if that seems to require more
>>>> than a moderate force I will live with the missing inch and tell
>>>> myself that I am still growing.
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> Graham Stewart
>>>> Agile. R22, 1976
>>>> Kingston Ontario Canada
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> __________________________________________________
>>>> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to
>>>> http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
>>>> 
>>>> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives
>>>> go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
>>>> __________________________________________________
>>> __________________________________________________
>>> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to
>>> http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
>>> 
>>> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives
>> go to
>>> http://www.rhodes22.org/list
>>> __________________________________________________
>>> 
>>> __________________________________________________
>>> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/
>> mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
>>> 
>>> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives
>> go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
>>> __________________________________________________
>> __________________________________________________
>> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/
>> mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
>> 
>> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go
>> to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
>> __________________________________________________
> __________________________________________________
> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
> 
> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> __________________________________________________

From chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com  Thu Aug 25 21:04:10 2016
From: chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com (Chris Geankoplis)
Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2016 21:04:10 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] deck shape
In-Reply-To: <90CDA12D-6C5F-43AA-B25D-529AFE81E08D@gmail.com>
References: <1801125827.14395278.1470872926762.JavaMail.yahoo.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1801125827.14395278.1470872926762.JavaMail.yahoo@mail.yahoo.com>
 <DM3PR18MB073187D1339CC24E3B1595B0D91E0@DM3PR18MB0731.namprd18.prod.outlook.com>
 <004e01d1f36f$5405ca00$fc115e00$@ca> <006f01d1fb3a$128758f0$37960ad0$@ca>
 <5D34D064-668F-4AB9-AD00-9DCA60B7CE7F@gmail.com>
 <007601d1fbad$1a0e3df0$4e2ab9d0$@ca>
 <39CC07FF-5506-40E4-BA5A-751A90600E85@gmail.com>
 <CADNTwiVxqd5eRMxjuyCFjWnQtONfSwTTEXP9Aq3Hegf0vf3V8Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <90CDA12D-6C5F-43AA-B25D-529AFE81E08D@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CADNTwiX=Y3c0G30mYxjzfFBA0EkfrH2MAxAer5N1J4jPUpWu4w@mail.gmail.com>

grin


On Thu, Aug 25, 2016 at 8:32 PM, Goodness <spreadgoodnews at gmail.com> wrote:

> Haha! Strong back. Very small head!
>
> Bob (palatka)
>
> > On Aug 24, 2016, at 10:43 PM, Chris Geankoplis <
> chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > Bob,
> >    Why do I have a picture of you as Atlas?
> > Chris G
> >
> >> On Sun, Aug 21, 2016 at 9:29 PM, Goodness <spreadgoodnews at gmail.com>
> wrote:
> >>
> >> Graham:  Being the foolish and impatient type, i used my back, stood up
> >> under the top pressing my back into it and put a 4x4 post with a cloth
> over
> >> the top under it to support then tapped the compression post and
> bulkhead
> >> in place with a mallet.  Then i tapped out the 4x4 and the compression
> post
> >> was firmly in place.  Right or wrong, I didnt give it 2 minutes of
> though!
> >> I was certain i had the base at the right height as i had made templates
> >> before i deconstructed the rotten base.  I just assumed the wide span of
> >> the fiberglass head liner was heavy and sagged.  My deck always remained
> >> rock solid.
> >> Bob (palatka)
> >>> On Aug 21, 2016, at 9:08 AM, Graham Stewart <gstewart8 at cogeco.ca>
> wrote:
> >>>
> >>> BoB:
> >>>
> >>> Thanks for the feedback. That is very helpful.
> >>> Yes, I had unstepped the mast and there was no load on the deck - not
> >> even
> >>> snow. I made the new bulkhead pieces using the old ones as templates
> and
> >>> placed them according to the fibreglass stubs that were in place to
> hold
> >> the
> >>> old pieces. Everything seems to be coming together properly so I am
> >> pretty
> >>> sure that the compression post base is in the correct place. The only
> >>> difference is that the old base had been distorting under the force of
> >> the
> >>> compression post over the years so the new piece corrected for that
> >>> accounting for perhaps as much as 1/2 inch in the drop of the cabin
> top.
> >>> What did you use to raise the cabin top in order to reinsert the
> >> compression
> >>> post? How much force did it take?
> >>> Thanks again,
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Graham Stewart
> >>> Agile. R22, 1976
> >>> Kingston Ontario Canada
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> -----Original Message-----
> >>> From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On
> >> Behalf Of
> >>> Goodness
> >>> Sent: August 20, 2016 11:09 PM
> >>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
> >>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] deck shape
> >>>
> >>> Graham:  i assume that your mast has remained unstepped during your
> >>> restoration.
> >>> Remember you have an inner hull so your cabin top has two layers. The
> >> center
> >>> of my cabin top interior dropped an inch immediately upon removing my
> >>> compression post.  I had the floor bulkhead replaced within a week but
> >> had
> >>> to lift the inner lining up to get the compression post to fit back
> into
> >>> place.  It is nice and tight and the deck is level and firm.
> Fiberglass
> >> is
> >>> very flexible and strong. Make sure your base for the post is at the
> >> proper
> >>> height however.  Do you have an original bulkehad as well?  That helps
> >> you
> >>> guage that the compression post is in the right position.
> >>> Good luck!
> >>>
> >>> Bob (palatka)
> >>>
> >>>> On Aug 20, 2016, at 7:25 PM, Graham Stewart <gstewart8 at cogeco.ca>
> >> wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>> I am finally at the point in my restoration of Agile where am
> >>>> installing the compression post and main bulkhead. However, it appears
> >>>> that the cabin top has dropped by a full inch. I am left with the
> >>>> choice of either jacking up the deck so that the compression post fits
> >>>> or cutting the post back to fit the space. Does anyone know what the
> >>>> implications might be if I gradually jack up the cabin top? Might I
> >>>> crack the deck? Obviously I should have supported the cabin top when I
> >>>> removed the post but I didn't think it would deform when there was no
> >> load
> >>> on it.
> >>>>
> >>>> If anyone has any suggestions I would appreciate it. Otherwise I will
> >>>> try to rais the top very gradually and if that seems to require more
> >>>> than a moderate force I will live with the missing inch and tell
> >>>> myself that I am still growing.
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> Graham Stewart
> >>>> Agile. R22, 1976
> >>>> Kingston Ontario Canada
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> __________________________________________________
> >>>> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to
> >>>> http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
> >>>>
> >>>> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives
> >>>> go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> >>>> __________________________________________________
> >>> __________________________________________________
> >>> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to
> >>> http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
> >>>
> >>> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives
> >> go to
> >>> http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> >>> __________________________________________________
> >>>
> >>> __________________________________________________
> >>> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/
> >> mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
> >>>
> >>> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives
> >> go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> >>> __________________________________________________
> >> __________________________________________________
> >> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/
> >> mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
> >>
> >> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives
> go
> >> to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> >> __________________________________________________
> > __________________________________________________
> > To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/
> mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
> >
> > For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives
> go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> > __________________________________________________
> __________________________________________________
> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/
> mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
>
> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go
> to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> __________________________________________________
>

From chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com  Thu Aug 25 21:29:55 2016
From: chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com (Chris Geankoplis)
Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2016 21:29:55 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Tessilmare Radial Flexible Rub Rail
In-Reply-To: <017901d1fe88$6987cd50$3c9767f0$@ca>
References: <CADNTwiX7puSA90EZhDcJdQ=7a07tJZ9uoNYASGdzSnVzfpSifA@mail.gmail.com>
 <E3A96AB1-D2D7-45FC-A877-760172CE5575@yahoo.com>
 <6A83474D-E52D-468A-8B5D-543B9032BACB@gmail.com>
 <CABkv36aAo8xOYvrrGeZZA_vup1MGewrJGazZJcYhQ7EVMBg04Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <0F8E82D1-7C71-4341-B26C-0FC5B6CD7C1B@gmail.com>
 <50173.107.220.129.217.1471807710.squirrel@quickpop.sssnet.com>
 <CADNTwiX_QYeU0y0o+Bk3EzjntLqsgBxzHBPb+HKL1R1KjOUW1g@mail.gmail.com>
 <017901d1fe88$6987cd50$3c9767f0$@ca>
Message-ID: <CADNTwiU2GrNfDaLE8Ws7Nf6Ei0n6L5nE+uNxapKEa2Yo68wQ5w@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks for this very useful write up.  I used the teco and it was a PTA.
Looked great but cost a lot more than your system and was no better in
quality.  Next time I'll use this product.
Chris
Enosis

On Thu, Aug 25, 2016 at 12:23 AM, Graham Stewart <gstewart8 at cogeco.ca>
wrote:

> For those who might be replacing their rub rail I thought I would post
> some notes and a picture of my boat after installing the Tessilmare Radial
> Flexible Rub Rail system.(see: http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/
> userportal/show_product.do?pid=56893
>
> The system comes in two parts: a plastic track and a rubber bumper. The
> track comes in 6' lengths and the rubber rail is continuous in the length
> you choose. I ordered 55' and that worked out fine with about 3 feet extra.
>
> The primary reason I choose this system was because installing it can be
> accomplished working alone. I didn't want to have to find and then depend
> on someone to help. Unlike the more popular Tacho system the rubber rail
> does not need to be stretched during installation. In fact, I was able to
> install it alone so that worked out fine. However, the time it took was
> considerably longer than what was implied in the sales material.
>
> The track goes on with screws. It is fairly soft plastic and if the screws
> are driven in too tight the track bulges around the screw and this
> deformation shows when the rubber rail is installed. As it turned out, and
> in spite of various approaches,  I was not able to find the perfect setting
> where the screw was sufficiently tight without creating the bulge. The only
> way I could avoid the bulges in the rubber rail was to use a box cutter to
> shave off the sides of each bulge on the track. That was not difficult but
> it was time consuming. You can see in the attached picture slight dimples
> in the rubber rail where each screw is located. You only see them when you
> look along the rail with the light reflecting off the surface.
>
> They recommend screws but say that rivets could also be used. Rivets would
> compress the track much more tightly than screws and would bulge the track
> considerably more so I don't see rivets as being practical. So unlike the
> original rub rail I was not able to use rivets to install the rail and
> secure the hull/deck join at the same time. I riveted the join first and
> then installed the track with screws. I used 1 1/2" screws but should have
> used 1" screws.
>
> Screws go in easily and are spaced every 6 inches. After drilling the hole
> for the screw I squeezed a dab of sealant into the hole. I suspect that had
> little effect in creating a seal - but I can't be sure.
>
> The sales material implied that the track can be bent around corners and
> the bow without the use of heat. Once you get the kit you find out that a
> bend in excess of a 40 mm radius required the application of heat. In the
> case of the Rhodes the bow and both ends of the transom are too sharp to
> avoid using the heat. That said, it does not require a lot of heat. I used
> my heat gun on the low setting and moved it back and forward along the
> track while I slowly  bent it around the bend. However, you need to put a
> length of wire under both tabs in the track to avoid having them  lose
> their shape and make it impossible to fit the rubber rail later. I used
> pieces of coated clothes line wire and that worked perfectly.
>
> To install the rubber rail you bend it back to spread the tabs that grab
> onto the track and roll the rail forward. By the time I was finished I had
> developed the method and was progressing well but it took me a long time
> and multiple tries at first. It can be done alone. If someone is there to
> help they can manage the length of rail. I did this on a hot day and I
> suspect thaat made the rail material much more pliable. I am not sure that
> I would have been able to install the rail had it been cold.
>
> At the sharp corners a gap forms between the rubber rail and the boat so I
> filled the space with black Boat Life sealant.
>
> The kit comes with plastic caps for the end. You can either put two end
> caps on or use a join piece to end them together. I put a screw through the
> ends of the rubber rail to make sure it  did not shrink back and then
> attached the link piece with a screw. The problem I ran into, however, was
> that the upper pintel on the rudder would not clear the cap. After
> considering various options I decided to shorten the pintel pin, (or is
> that called the gudgeon?), just enough to allow the rub rail to be cleared
> and then drilled a hole in the pin so that I could secure it with a pull
> pin. That seemed to work fine.
>
> Unlike the Taco system, there is no insert that goes into the track that
> will give a two-colour look - which can be attractive.
>
> Attached is a picture of the rail attached. Not having installed the Tacho
> system I really can't say whether the Tessilmare is better or easier to
> install. Certainly the rubber rail seems beefy and should provide good
> protection.
>
>
> Graham Stewart
> Agile. R22, 1976
> Kingston Ontario Canada
>
>
>
>
>
> -------------- next part --------------
> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> Name: Reb rail installed- Tessilmare July 2016.jpg
> Type: image/jpeg
> Size: 437724 bytes
> Desc: not available
> URL: <http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/
> attachments/20160825/1238558f/attachment.jpg>
> __________________________________________________
> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/
> mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
>
> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go
> to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> __________________________________________________
>

From gstewart8 at cogeco.ca  Thu Aug 25 23:00:39 2016
From: gstewart8 at cogeco.ca (Graham Stewart)
Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2016 23:00:39 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Tessilmare Radial Flexible Rub Rail
In-Reply-To: <CADNTwiU2GrNfDaLE8Ws7Nf6Ei0n6L5nE+uNxapKEa2Yo68wQ5w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CADNTwiX7puSA90EZhDcJdQ=7a07tJZ9uoNYASGdzSnVzfpSifA@mail.gmail.com>
 <E3A96AB1-D2D7-45FC-A877-760172CE5575@yahoo.com>
 <6A83474D-E52D-468A-8B5D-543B9032BACB@gmail.com>
 <CABkv36aAo8xOYvrrGeZZA_vup1MGewrJGazZJcYhQ7EVMBg04Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <0F8E82D1-7C71-4341-B26C-0FC5B6CD7C1B@gmail.com>
 <50173.107.220.129.217.1471807710.squirrel@quickpop.sssnet.com>
 <CADNTwiX_QYeU0y0o+Bk3EzjntLqsgBxzHBPb+HKL1R1KjOUW1g@mail.gmail.com>
 <017901d1fe88$6987cd50$3c9767f0$@ca>
 <CADNTwiU2GrNfDaLE8Ws7Nf6Ei0n6L5nE+uNxapKEa2Yo68wQ5w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <008101d1ff46$06d17940$14746bc0$@ca>

For me the cost of the Tessilmare was considerably more than the Tyco but
that might be because I am in Canada.


Graham Stewart
Agile. R22, 1976
Kingston Ontario Canada



-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of
Chris Geankoplis
Sent: August 25, 2016 9:30 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Tessilmare Radial Flexible Rub Rail

Thanks for this very useful write up.  I used the teco and it was a PTA.
Looked great but cost a lot more than your system and was no better in
quality.  Next time I'll use this product.
Chris
Enosis

On Thu, Aug 25, 2016 at 12:23 AM, Graham Stewart <gstewart8 at cogeco.ca>
wrote:

> For those who might be replacing their rub rail I thought I would post 
> some notes and a picture of my boat after installing the Tessilmare 
> Radial Flexible Rub Rail system.(see: 
> http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/
> userportal/show_product.do?pid=56893
>
> The system comes in two parts: a plastic track and a rubber bumper. 
> The track comes in 6' lengths and the rubber rail is continuous in the 
> length you choose. I ordered 55' and that worked out fine with about 3
feet extra.
>
> The primary reason I choose this system was because installing it can 
> be accomplished working alone. I didn't want to have to find and then 
> depend on someone to help. Unlike the more popular Tacho system the 
> rubber rail does not need to be stretched during installation. In 
> fact, I was able to install it alone so that worked out fine. However, 
> the time it took was considerably longer than what was implied in the
sales material.
>
> The track goes on with screws. It is fairly soft plastic and if the 
> screws are driven in too tight the track bulges around the screw and 
> this deformation shows when the rubber rail is installed. As it turned 
> out, and in spite of various approaches,  I was not able to find the 
> perfect setting where the screw was sufficiently tight without 
> creating the bulge. The only way I could avoid the bulges in the 
> rubber rail was to use a box cutter to shave off the sides of each 
> bulge on the track. That was not difficult but it was time consuming. 
> You can see in the attached picture slight dimples in the rubber rail 
> where each screw is located. You only see them when you look along the
rail with the light reflecting off the surface.
>
> They recommend screws but say that rivets could also be used. Rivets 
> would compress the track much more tightly than screws and would bulge 
> the track considerably more so I don't see rivets as being practical. 
> So unlike the original rub rail I was not able to use rivets to 
> install the rail and secure the hull/deck join at the same time. I 
> riveted the join first and then installed the track with screws. I 
> used 1 1/2" screws but should have used 1" screws.
>
> Screws go in easily and are spaced every 6 inches. After drilling the 
> hole for the screw I squeezed a dab of sealant into the hole. I 
> suspect that had little effect in creating a seal - but I can't be sure.
>
> The sales material implied that the track can be bent around corners 
> and the bow without the use of heat. Once you get the kit you find out 
> that a bend in excess of a 40 mm radius required the application of 
> heat. In the case of the Rhodes the bow and both ends of the transom 
> are too sharp to avoid using the heat. That said, it does not require 
> a lot of heat. I used my heat gun on the low setting and moved it back 
> and forward along the track while I slowly  bent it around the bend. 
> However, you need to put a length of wire under both tabs in the track 
> to avoid having them  lose their shape and make it impossible to fit 
> the rubber rail later. I used pieces of coated clothes line wire and that
worked perfectly.
>
> To install the rubber rail you bend it back to spread the tabs that 
> grab onto the track and roll the rail forward. By the time I was 
> finished I had developed the method and was progressing well but it 
> took me a long time and multiple tries at first. It can be done alone. 
> If someone is there to help they can manage the length of rail. I did 
> this on a hot day and I suspect thaat made the rail material much more 
> pliable. I am not sure that I would have been able to install the rail had
it been cold.
>
> At the sharp corners a gap forms between the rubber rail and the boat 
> so I filled the space with black Boat Life sealant.
>
> The kit comes with plastic caps for the end. You can either put two 
> end caps on or use a join piece to end them together. I put a screw 
> through the ends of the rubber rail to make sure it  did not shrink 
> back and then attached the link piece with a screw. The problem I ran 
> into, however, was that the upper pintel on the rudder would not clear 
> the cap. After considering various options I decided to shorten the 
> pintel pin, (or is that called the gudgeon?), just enough to allow the 
> rub rail to be cleared and then drilled a hole in the pin so that I 
> could secure it with a pull pin. That seemed to work fine.
>
> Unlike the Taco system, there is no insert that goes into the track 
> that will give a two-colour look - which can be attractive.
>
> Attached is a picture of the rail attached. Not having installed the 
> Tacho system I really can't say whether the Tessilmare is better or 
> easier to install. Certainly the rubber rail seems beefy and should 
> provide good protection.
>
>
> Graham Stewart
> Agile. R22, 1976
> Kingston Ontario Canada
>
>
>
>
>
> -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was 
> scrubbed...
> Name: Reb rail installed- Tessilmare July 2016.jpg
> Type: image/jpeg
> Size: 437724 bytes
> Desc: not available
> URL: <http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/
> attachments/20160825/1238558f/attachment.jpg>
> __________________________________________________
> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/ 
> mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
>
> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives 
> go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list 
> __________________________________________________
>
__________________________________________________
To subscribe/unsubscribe go to
http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list

For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go to
http://www.rhodes22.org/list
__________________________________________________


From boendert at me.com  Fri Aug 26 10:12:03 2016
From: boendert at me.com (Theodore Boender)
Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2016 10:12:03 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Tessilmare Radial Flexible Rub Rail
In-Reply-To: <017901d1fe88$6987cd50$3c9767f0$@ca>
References: <CADNTwiX7puSA90EZhDcJdQ=7a07tJZ9uoNYASGdzSnVzfpSifA@mail.gmail.com>
 <E3A96AB1-D2D7-45FC-A877-760172CE5575@yahoo.com>
 <6A83474D-E52D-468A-8B5D-543B9032BACB@gmail.com>
 <CABkv36aAo8xOYvrrGeZZA_vup1MGewrJGazZJcYhQ7EVMBg04Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <0F8E82D1-7C71-4341-B26C-0FC5B6CD7C1B@gmail.com>
 <50173.107.220.129.217.1471807710.squirrel@quickpop.sssnet.com>
 <CADNTwiX_QYeU0y0o+Bk3EzjntLqsgBxzHBPb+HKL1R1KjOUW1g@mail.gmail.com>
 <017901d1fe88$6987cd50$3c9767f0$@ca>
Message-ID: <8E25EAFD-9BFC-48BD-8F0D-612C43E211F8@me.com>

Graham,

I love the yellow hull. She really looks awesome! 

Can't wait for you to splash her! 

Cheers,
Ted

S/V AIRPOWER 
1991/2013 R22
Jacksonville, FL



> On Aug 25, 2016, at 12:23 AM, Graham Stewart <gstewart8 at cogeco.ca> wrote:
> 
> For those who might be replacing their rub rail I thought I would post some notes and a picture of my boat after installing the Tessilmare Radial Flexible Rub Rail system.(see: http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=56893 
> 
> The system comes in two parts: a plastic track and a rubber bumper. The track comes in 6' lengths and the rubber rail is continuous in the length you choose. I ordered 55' and that worked out fine with about 3 feet extra.
> 
> The primary reason I choose this system was because installing it can be accomplished working alone. I didn't want to have to find and then depend on someone to help. Unlike the more popular Tacho system the rubber rail does not need to be stretched during installation. In fact, I was able to install it alone so that worked out fine. However, the time it took was considerably longer than what was implied in the sales material.
> 
> The track goes on with screws. It is fairly soft plastic and if the screws are driven in too tight the track bulges around the screw and this deformation shows when the rubber rail is installed. As it turned out, and in spite of various approaches,  I was not able to find the perfect setting where the screw was sufficiently tight without creating the bulge. The only way I could avoid the bulges in the rubber rail was to use a box cutter to shave off the sides of each bulge on the track. That was not difficult but it was time consuming. You can see in the attached picture slight dimples in the rubber rail where each screw is located. You only see them when you look along the rail with the light reflecting off the surface.
> 
> They recommend screws but say that rivets could also be used. Rivets would compress the track much more tightly than screws and would bulge the track considerably more so I don't see rivets as being practical. So unlike the original rub rail I was not able to use rivets to install the rail and secure the hull/deck join at the same time. I riveted the join first and then installed the track with screws. I used 1 1/2" screws but should have used 1" screws.
> 
> Screws go in easily and are spaced every 6 inches. After drilling the hole for the screw I squeezed a dab of sealant into the hole. I suspect that had little effect in creating a seal - but I can't be sure.
> 
> The sales material implied that the track can be bent around corners and the bow without the use of heat. Once you get the kit you find out that a bend in excess of a 40 mm radius required the application of heat. In the case of the Rhodes the bow and both ends of the transom are too sharp to avoid using the heat. That said, it does not require a lot of heat. I used my heat gun on the low setting and moved it back and forward along the track while I slowly  bent it around the bend. However, you need to put a length of wire under both tabs in the track to avoid having them  lose their shape and make it impossible to fit the rubber rail later. I used pieces of coated clothes line wire and that worked perfectly. 
> 
> To install the rubber rail you bend it back to spread the tabs that grab onto the track and roll the rail forward. By the time I was finished I had developed the method and was progressing well but it took me a long time and multiple tries at first. It can be done alone. If someone is there to help they can manage the length of rail. I did this on a hot day and I suspect thaat made the rail material much more pliable. I am not sure that I would have been able to install the rail had it been cold.
> 
> At the sharp corners a gap forms between the rubber rail and the boat so I filled the space with black Boat Life sealant.
> 
> The kit comes with plastic caps for the end. You can either put two end caps on or use a join piece to end them together. I put a screw through the ends of the rubber rail to make sure it  did not shrink back and then attached the link piece with a screw. The problem I ran into, however, was that the upper pintel on the rudder would not clear the cap. After considering various options I decided to shorten the pintel pin, (or is that called the gudgeon?), just enough to allow the rub rail to be cleared and then drilled a hole in the pin so that I could secure it with a pull pin. That seemed to work fine.
> 
> Unlike the Taco system, there is no insert that goes into the track that will give a two-colour look - which can be attractive.
> 
> Attached is a picture of the rail attached. Not having installed the Tacho system I really can't say whether the Tessilmare is better or easier to install. Certainly the rubber rail seems beefy and should provide good protection.
> 
> 
> Graham Stewart
> Agile. R22, 1976
> Kingston Ontario Canada
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------- next part --------------
> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> Name: Reb rail installed- Tessilmare July 2016.jpg
> Type: image/jpeg
> Size: 437724 bytes
> Desc: not available
> URL: <http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20160825/1238558f/attachment.jpg>
> __________________________________________________
> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
> 
> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> __________________________________________________

From gstewart8 at cogeco.ca  Fri Aug 26 11:40:22 2016
From: gstewart8 at cogeco.ca (Graham Stewart)
Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2016 11:40:22 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Tessilmare Radial Flexible Rub Rail
In-Reply-To: <8E25EAFD-9BFC-48BD-8F0D-612C43E211F8@me.com>
References: <CADNTwiX7puSA90EZhDcJdQ=7a07tJZ9uoNYASGdzSnVzfpSifA@mail.gmail.com>
 <E3A96AB1-D2D7-45FC-A877-760172CE5575@yahoo.com>
 <6A83474D-E52D-468A-8B5D-543B9032BACB@gmail.com>
 <CABkv36aAo8xOYvrrGeZZA_vup1MGewrJGazZJcYhQ7EVMBg04Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <0F8E82D1-7C71-4341-B26C-0FC5B6CD7C1B@gmail.com>
 <50173.107.220.129.217.1471807710.squirrel@quickpop.sssnet.com>
 <CADNTwiX_QYeU0y0o+Bk3EzjntLqsgBxzHBPb+HKL1R1KjOUW1g@mail.gmail.com>
 <017901d1fe88$6987cd50$3c9767f0$@ca>
 <8E25EAFD-9BFC-48BD-8F0D-612C43E211F8@me.com>
Message-ID: <00b301d1ffb0$285a0450$790e0cf0$@ca>

Ted: 

After 7 years on the hard I am getting a touch anxious to launch as well.
Short of death or disaster I should be launching next spring. I am stunned
to think how long this rebuild has taken - although I can't do much in the
cold seasons. I told my wife it would take two years. She doesn't believe
any estimates I make now.

Graham Stewart
Agile. R22, 1976
Kingston Ontario Canada




-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of
Theodore Boender
Sent: August 26, 2016 10:12 AM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Tessilmare Radial Flexible Rub Rail

Graham,

I love the yellow hull. She really looks awesome! 

Can't wait for you to splash her! 

Cheers,
Ted

S/V AIRPOWER 
1991/2013 R22
Jacksonville, FL



> On Aug 25, 2016, at 12:23 AM, Graham Stewart <gstewart8 at cogeco.ca> wrote:
> 
> For those who might be replacing their rub rail I thought I would post
some notes and a picture of my boat after installing the Tessilmare Radial
Flexible Rub Rail system.(see:
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=56893 
> 
> The system comes in two parts: a plastic track and a rubber bumper. The
track comes in 6' lengths and the rubber rail is continuous in the length
you choose. I ordered 55' and that worked out fine with about 3 feet extra.
> 
> The primary reason I choose this system was because installing it can be
accomplished working alone. I didn't want to have to find and then depend on
someone to help. Unlike the more popular Tacho system the rubber rail does
not need to be stretched during installation. In fact, I was able to install
it alone so that worked out fine. However, the time it took was considerably
longer than what was implied in the sales material.
> 
> The track goes on with screws. It is fairly soft plastic and if the screws
are driven in too tight the track bulges around the screw and this
deformation shows when the rubber rail is installed. As it turned out, and
in spite of various approaches,  I was not able to find the perfect setting
where the screw was sufficiently tight without creating the bulge. The only
way I could avoid the bulges in the rubber rail was to use a box cutter to
shave off the sides of each bulge on the track. That was not difficult but
it was time consuming. You can see in the attached picture slight dimples in
the rubber rail where each screw is located. You only see them when you look
along the rail with the light reflecting off the surface.
> 
> They recommend screws but say that rivets could also be used. Rivets would
compress the track much more tightly than screws and would bulge the track
considerably more so I don't see rivets as being practical. So unlike the
original rub rail I was not able to use rivets to install the rail and
secure the hull/deck join at the same time. I riveted the join first and
then installed the track with screws. I used 1 1/2" screws but should have
used 1" screws.
> 
> Screws go in easily and are spaced every 6 inches. After drilling the hole
for the screw I squeezed a dab of sealant into the hole. I suspect that had
little effect in creating a seal - but I can't be sure.
> 
> The sales material implied that the track can be bent around corners and
the bow without the use of heat. Once you get the kit you find out that a
bend in excess of a 40 mm radius required the application of heat. In the
case of the Rhodes the bow and both ends of the transom are too sharp to
avoid using the heat. That said, it does not require a lot of heat. I used
my heat gun on the low setting and moved it back and forward along the track
while I slowly  bent it around the bend. However, you need to put a length
of wire under both tabs in the track to avoid having them  lose their shape
and make it impossible to fit the rubber rail later. I used pieces of coated
clothes line wire and that worked perfectly. 
> 
> To install the rubber rail you bend it back to spread the tabs that grab
onto the track and roll the rail forward. By the time I was finished I had
developed the method and was progressing well but it took me a long time and
multiple tries at first. It can be done alone. If someone is there to help
they can manage the length of rail. I did this on a hot day and I suspect
thaat made the rail material much more pliable. I am not sure that I would
have been able to install the rail had it been cold.
> 
> At the sharp corners a gap forms between the rubber rail and the boat so I
filled the space with black Boat Life sealant.
> 
> The kit comes with plastic caps for the end. You can either put two end
caps on or use a join piece to end them together. I put a screw through the
ends of the rubber rail to make sure it  did not shrink back and then
attached the link piece with a screw. The problem I ran into, however, was
that the upper pintel on the rudder would not clear the cap. After
considering various options I decided to shorten the pintel pin, (or is that
called the gudgeon?), just enough to allow the rub rail to be cleared and
then drilled a hole in the pin so that I could secure it with a pull pin.
That seemed to work fine.
> 
> Unlike the Taco system, there is no insert that goes into the track that
will give a two-colour look - which can be attractive.
> 
> Attached is a picture of the rail attached. Not having installed the Tacho
system I really can't say whether the Tessilmare is better or easier to
install. Certainly the rubber rail seems beefy and should provide good
protection.
> 
> 
> Graham Stewart
> Agile. R22, 1976
> Kingston Ontario Canada
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------- next part --------------
> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> Name: Reb rail installed- Tessilmare July 2016.jpg
> Type: image/jpeg
> Size: 437724 bytes
> Desc: not available
> URL:
<http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20160825/1238558f/a
ttachment.jpg>
> __________________________________________________
> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to
http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
> 
> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go
to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> __________________________________________________
__________________________________________________
To subscribe/unsubscribe go to
http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list

For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go to
http://www.rhodes22.org/list
__________________________________________________


From jmarshallweiss11 at gmail.com  Sun Aug 28 19:59:44 2016
From: jmarshallweiss11 at gmail.com (Jay Weiss)
Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2016 19:59:44 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] CDI Flexible furler
Message-ID: <CAOqYN8YuoKoeMM2MtwGV2QG1Peg957-VzNukNFzLPRVzdWJ8Ag@mail.gmail.com>

Live and learn.
This past week while Hudson River sailing with a non responsive outboard
(another story) we were surprised to witness our jib sliding down its
furler.  The canvass loop at the head of the sail that attached it to its
halyard's shackle had failed. We removed the sail from the furler and sent
it to the sail maker, who said that the loop was unprotected from the sun's
UV radiation even as the rest of the furled sail was protected by a cover.
He replaced it and returned it.
Now the question:
It appears that I only need to place the bolt of the sail into the slot of
the furler (near the deck) and slide it up toward the mast head and there
attach it to the shackle that's remains there. The deck end of the halyard
is then tightened around a cleat beside the drum as is the tack of the
sail.  Is that right?  (I'll be using a bosun's chair.) Ordinarily a jib
halyard is lowered to deck level, attached to the head of the sail, and the
sail then raised and the line secured on deck or on the mast. The CDI
furler doesn't seem to work that way?  I purchased the boat used with its
furler and foresail already installed so I'm totally unfamiliar with how it
works.

Jay Marshall Weiss
Poughkeepsie, NY
1998 R-22
Hanalei


-- 
Sent from Gmail Mobile

From sloopblueheron at gmail.com  Sun Aug 28 20:25:54 2016
From: sloopblueheron at gmail.com (Rick)
Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2016 20:25:54 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] CDI Flexible furler
In-Reply-To: <CAOqYN8YuoKoeMM2MtwGV2QG1Peg957-VzNukNFzLPRVzdWJ8Ag@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAOqYN8YuoKoeMM2MtwGV2QG1Peg957-VzNukNFzLPRVzdWJ8Ag@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CABkv36YjaGB4x+p1RLb8zFcSSnbaUmdFFNdBGr7XV0W+Z5qnwQ@mail.gmail.com>

Jay,

The CDI furler does work that way.  A halyard raises the sail and keeps it
raised while in use.

Rick

On Sun, Aug 28, 2016 at 7:59 PM, Jay Weiss <jmarshallweiss11 at gmail.com>
wrote:

> Live and learn.
> This past week while Hudson River sailing with a non responsive outboard
> (another story) we were surprised to witness our jib sliding down its
> furler.  The canvass loop at the head of the sail that attached it to its
> halyard's shackle had failed. We removed the sail from the furler and sent
> it to the sail maker, who said that the loop was unprotected from the sun's
> UV radiation even as the rest of the furled sail was protected by a cover.
> He replaced it and returned it.
> Now the question:
> It appears that I only need to place the bolt of the sail into the slot of
> the furler (near the deck) and slide it up toward the mast head and there
> attach it to the shackle that's remains there. The deck end of the halyard
> is then tightened around a cleat beside the drum as is the tack of the
> sail.  Is that right?  (I'll be using a bosun's chair.) Ordinarily a jib
> halyard is lowered to deck level, attached to the head of the sail, and the
> sail then raised and the line secured on deck or on the mast. The CDI
> furler doesn't seem to work that way?  I purchased the boat used with its
> furler and foresail already installed so I'm totally unfamiliar with how it
> works.
>
> Jay Marshall Weiss
> Poughkeepsie, NY
> 1998 R-22
> Hanalei
>
>
> --
> Sent from Gmail Mobile
> __________________________________________________
> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/
> mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
>
> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go
> to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> __________________________________________________
>

From hnw555 at gmail.com  Sun Aug 28 20:41:08 2016
From: hnw555 at gmail.com (Hank)
Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2016 20:41:08 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] CDI Flexible furler
In-Reply-To: <CAOqYN8YuoKoeMM2MtwGV2QG1Peg957-VzNukNFzLPRVzdWJ8Ag@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAOqYN8YuoKoeMM2MtwGV2QG1Peg957-VzNukNFzLPRVzdWJ8Ag@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CADQNfMDikXJTJPpGSHyL9KnoiJ5S6duu5F8tjsDgZn9DXPx=cw@mail.gmail.com>

You should be able to lower the halyard and then use it to pull the sail up
the slot on the furler.  Trying to pull the sail up by hand will be a real
challenge, I would think.

Hank

On Sun, Aug 28, 2016 at 7:59 PM, Jay Weiss <jmarshallweiss11 at gmail.com>
wrote:

> Live and learn.
> This past week while Hudson River sailing with a non responsive outboard
> (another story) we were surprised to witness our jib sliding down its
> furler.  The canvass loop at the head of the sail that attached it to its
> halyard's shackle had failed. We removed the sail from the furler and sent
> it to the sail maker, who said that the loop was unprotected from the sun's
> UV radiation even as the rest of the furled sail was protected by a cover.
> He replaced it and returned it.
> Now the question:
> It appears that I only need to place the bolt of the sail into the slot of
> the furler (near the deck) and slide it up toward the mast head and there
> attach it to the shackle that's remains there. The deck end of the halyard
> is then tightened around a cleat beside the drum as is the tack of the
> sail.  Is that right?  (I'll be using a bosun's chair.) Ordinarily a jib
> halyard is lowered to deck level, attached to the head of the sail, and the
> sail then raised and the line secured on deck or on the mast. The CDI
> furler doesn't seem to work that way?  I purchased the boat used with its
> furler and foresail already installed so I'm totally unfamiliar with how it
> works.
>
> Jay Marshall Weiss
> Poughkeepsie, NY
> 1998 R-22
> Hanalei
>
>
> --
> Sent from Gmail Mobile
> __________________________________________________
> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/
> mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
>
> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go
> to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> __________________________________________________
>

From jmarshallweiss11 at gmail.com  Sun Aug 28 21:37:46 2016
From: jmarshallweiss11 at gmail.com (Jay Weiss)
Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2016 21:37:46 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] CDI Flexible furler
In-Reply-To: <CADQNfMDikXJTJPpGSHyL9KnoiJ5S6duu5F8tjsDgZn9DXPx=cw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAOqYN8YuoKoeMM2MtwGV2QG1Peg957-VzNukNFzLPRVzdWJ8Ag@mail.gmail.com>
 <CADQNfMDikXJTJPpGSHyL9KnoiJ5S6duu5F8tjsDgZn9DXPx=cw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAOqYN8ZbvPJ+L=-UOs-bO7yiGapgvMAnJYW8tQ+7FfkO6QW+iQ@mail.gmail.com>

Okay so granted it works like every other halyard. So then you think the
previous owner removed what he considered excess line whereby when the
halyard is taken down to the deck to attach the sail, the line runs out?
And, would you have any idea as to the size rope? It looks awfully small.
Really too small.

On Sunday, August 28, 2016, Hank <hnw555 at gmail.com> wrote:

> You should be able to lower the halyard and then use it to pull the sail up
> the slot on the furler.  Trying to pull the sail up by hand will be a real
> challenge, I would think.
>
> Hank
>
> On Sun, Aug 28, 2016 at 7:59 PM, Jay Weiss <jmarshallweiss11 at gmail.com
> <javascript:;>>
> wrote:
>
> > Live and learn.
> > This past week while Hudson River sailing with a non responsive outboard
> > (another story) we were surprised to witness our jib sliding down its
> > furler.  The canvass loop at the head of the sail that attached it to its
> > halyard's shackle had failed. We removed the sail from the furler and
> sent
> > it to the sail maker, who said that the loop was unprotected from the
> sun's
> > UV radiation even as the rest of the furled sail was protected by a
> cover.
> > He replaced it and returned it.
> > Now the question:
> > It appears that I only need to place the bolt of the sail into the slot
> of
> > the furler (near the deck) and slide it up toward the mast head and there
> > attach it to the shackle that's remains there. The deck end of the
> halyard
> > is then tightened around a cleat beside the drum as is the tack of the
> > sail.  Is that right?  (I'll be using a bosun's chair.) Ordinarily a jib
> > halyard is lowered to deck level, attached to the head of the sail, and
> the
> > sail then raised and the line secured on deck or on the mast. The CDI
> > furler doesn't seem to work that way?  I purchased the boat used with its
> > furler and foresail already installed so I'm totally unfamiliar with how
> it
> > works.
> >
> > Jay Marshall Weiss
> > Poughkeepsie, NY
> > 1998 R-22
> > Hanalei
> >
> >
> > --
> > Sent from Gmail Mobile
> > __________________________________________________
> > To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/
> > mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
> >
> > For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go
> > to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> > __________________________________________________
> >
> __________________________________________________
> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/
> mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
>
> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go
> to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> __________________________________________________
>


-- 
Sent from Gmail Mobile

From jchirch at gmail.com  Sun Aug 28 21:38:47 2016
From: jchirch at gmail.com (Jack Chirch)
Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2016 21:38:47 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] CDI Flexible furler
In-Reply-To: <CADQNfMDikXJTJPpGSHyL9KnoiJ5S6duu5F8tjsDgZn9DXPx=cw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAOqYN8YuoKoeMM2MtwGV2QG1Peg957-VzNukNFzLPRVzdWJ8Ag@mail.gmail.com>
 <CADQNfMDikXJTJPpGSHyL9KnoiJ5S6duu5F8tjsDgZn9DXPx=cw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAGQgktrx_CGWpZLMsiK5KKH-sNXAxXBJS85k-Q-jHF8cccWYcg@mail.gmail.com>

Jay -

Hank has the right idea.  And you don't necessarily need to go up the mast
to lower the halyard.  A 10' length of pvc pipe (3/4"), topped with a
suitably bent coat hanger (think upside-down V) secured by duct tape will
get the job done. If you're not tall & long-armed, you may need a little
move pvc.   Good luck.

Jack Chirch
S/V Pax
Gloucester, Va

On Sun, Aug 28, 2016 at 8:41 PM, Hank <hnw555 at gmail.com> wrote:

> You should be able to lower the halyard and then use it to pull the sail up
> the slot on the furler.  Trying to pull the sail up by hand will be a real
> challenge, I would think.
>
> Hank
>
> On Sun, Aug 28, 2016 at 7:59 PM, Jay Weiss <jmarshallweiss11 at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> > Live and learn.
> > This past week while Hudson River sailing with a non responsive outboard
> > (another story) we were surprised to witness our jib sliding down its
> > furler.  The canvass loop at the head of the sail that attached it to its
> > halyard's shackle had failed. We removed the sail from the furler and
> sent
> > it to the sail maker, who said that the loop was unprotected from the
> sun's
> > UV radiation even as the rest of the furled sail was protected by a
> cover.
> > He replaced it and returned it.
> > Now the question:
> > It appears that I only need to place the bolt of the sail into the slot
> of
> > the furler (near the deck) and slide it up toward the mast head and there
> > attach it to the shackle that's remains there. The deck end of the
> halyard
> > is then tightened around a cleat beside the drum as is the tack of the
> > sail.  Is that right?  (I'll be using a bosun's chair.) Ordinarily a jib
> > halyard is lowered to deck level, attached to the head of the sail, and
> the
> > sail then raised and the line secured on deck or on the mast. The CDI
> > furler doesn't seem to work that way?  I purchased the boat used with its
> > furler and foresail already installed so I'm totally unfamiliar with how
> it
> > works.
> >
> > Jay Marshall Weiss
> > Poughkeepsie, NY
> > 1998 R-22
> > Hanalei
> >
> >
> > --
> > Sent from Gmail Mobile
> > __________________________________________________
> > To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/
> > mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
> >
> > For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go
> > to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> > __________________________________________________
> >
> __________________________________________________
> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/
> mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
>
> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go
> to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> __________________________________________________
>

From mweisner at ebsmed.com  Sun Aug 28 23:56:30 2016
From: mweisner at ebsmed.com (Michael D. Weisner)
Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2016 23:56:30 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] CDI Flexible furler
In-Reply-To: <CAOqYN8YuoKoeMM2MtwGV2QG1Peg957-VzNukNFzLPRVzdWJ8Ag@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAOqYN8YuoKoeMM2MtwGV2QG1Peg957-VzNukNFzLPRVzdWJ8Ag@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <009d01d201a9$53ed7f20$fbc87d60$@com>

Jay,

Are you sure that you have the CDI not the GBI furler?  The CDI uses a
"messenger line" style halyard to raise the sail permitting interchanging
sails without dropping the mast or using a bosun. See the manual in our
archives at:
www.rhodes22.org/doclib/CDI-FlexibleFurlerModel2-Manual.pdf

The archives also have a thread on the halyard replacement at:
http://www.rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/2015-March/077310.html

A short thread on the benefits of the CDI vs. the GBI is at::
http://www.rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/2004-February/012464.html

Mike
s/v Wind Lass  ('91)
Nissequogue River, NY


-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of
Jay Weiss
Sent: Sunday, August 28, 2016 8:00 PM
To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] CDI Flexible furler

Live and learn.
This past week while Hudson River sailing with a non responsive outboard
(another story) we were surprised to witness our jib sliding down its
furler.  The canvass loop at the head of the sail that attached it to its
halyard's shackle had failed. We removed the sail from the furler and sent
it to the sail maker, who said that the loop was unprotected from the sun's
UV radiation even as the rest of the furled sail was protected by a cover.
He replaced it and returned it.
Now the question:
It appears that I only need to place the bolt of the sail into the slot of
the furler (near the deck) and slide it up toward the mast head and there
attach it to the shackle that's remains there. The deck end of the halyard
is then tightened around a cleat beside the drum as is the tack of the sail.
Is that right?  (I'll be using a bosun's chair.) Ordinarily a jib halyard is
lowered to deck level, attached to the head of the sail, and the sail then
raised and the line secured on deck or on the mast. The CDI furler doesn't
seem to work that way?  I purchased the boat used with its furler and
foresail already installed so I'm totally unfamiliar with how it works.

Jay Marshall Weiss
Poughkeepsie, NY
1998 R-22
Hanalei


--
Sent from Gmail Mobile
__________________________________________________
To subscribe/unsubscribe go to
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http://www.rhodes22.org/list
__________________________________________________


From C.Robert.Lester at dartmouth.edu  Mon Aug 29 00:06:25 2016
From: C.Robert.Lester at dartmouth.edu (C. Robert Lester)
Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2016 04:06:25 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Rhodes 22 Trailer for sale?
In-Reply-To: <0cced530-0fc9-438f-e6a8-49b018e16362@rhodes22.com>
References: <SN2PR03MB2383103E451EFA1D91A46DBEAE150@SN2PR03MB2383.namprd03.prod.outlook.com>
 <0cced530-0fc9-438f-e6a8-49b018e16362@rhodes22.com>
Message-ID: <BLUPR0301MB2033BF39F85999DB7CC90946AEE10@BLUPR0301MB2033.namprd03.prod.outlook.com>

Stan,

Would you kindly send me prices on all trailer's?

Thank you in advance,

Bob

-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Stan Spitzer
Sent: Thursday, August 18, 2016 7:33 AM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Rhodes 22 Trailer for sale?


Hi Robert Lester,

We have a few used and one new trailer that we prioritize for the C of S community but can be had by others at higher prices.

stan

On 8/17/16 10:33 PM, C. Robert Lester wrote:
> Please let me know if you have a trailer for sale.
> Thanks in advance,
> Bob
> __________________________________________________
> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to 
> http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
>
> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives 
> go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list 
> __________________________________________________

__________________________________________________
To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list

For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list __________________________________________________

From stan at rhodes22.com  Mon Aug 29 07:51:14 2016
From: stan at rhodes22.com (Stan Spitzer)
Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2016 07:51:14 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Rhodes 22 Trailer for sale?
In-Reply-To: <BLUPR0301MB2033BF39F85999DB7CC90946AEE10@BLUPR0301MB2033.namprd03.prod.outlook.com>
References: <SN2PR03MB2383103E451EFA1D91A46DBEAE150@SN2PR03MB2383.namprd03.prod.outlook.com>
 <0cced530-0fc9-438f-e6a8-49b018e16362@rhodes22.com>
 <BLUPR0301MB2033BF39F85999DB7CC90946AEE10@BLUPR0301MB2033.namprd03.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <4a960590-474d-b35f-2933-a5d7c06f5e2d@rhodes22.com>

They run from 3K for painted frame used (made road worthy) brakeless  to 
6K for new galvanized frame and wheels, heavy duty 6 lug hubs, brake 
models.   All have the standard Rhodes features of the long extension 
tongue and down cb loading, adjustable bow receiver and bunk conforming 
support system.  (Occasionally I see those on the List who think the 
boat is supported by the keel. That is 100% erroneous.  The keel does 
not touch the trailer.)  No used galvanized frame models currently in 
stock.

Hope this helps

stan


On 8/29/16 12:06 AM, C. Robert Lester wrote:
> Stan,
>
> Would you kindly send me prices on all trailer's?
>
> Thank you in advance,
>
> Bob
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Stan Spitzer
> Sent: Thursday, August 18, 2016 7:33 AM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Rhodes 22 Trailer for sale?
>
>
>


From jmarshallweiss11 at gmail.com  Mon Aug 29 09:01:29 2016
From: jmarshallweiss11 at gmail.com (Jay Weiss)
Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2016 09:01:29 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] CDI Flexible furler
In-Reply-To: <009d01d201a9$53ed7f20$fbc87d60$@com>
References: <CAOqYN8YuoKoeMM2MtwGV2QG1Peg957-VzNukNFzLPRVzdWJ8Ag@mail.gmail.com>
 <009d01d201a9$53ed7f20$fbc87d60$@com>
Message-ID: <CAOqYN8Zm-Bd023ngjq-GOWd3CTyQjghEhK9Dx1_OO0oP5mWCZw@mail.gmail.com>

Aha!  Taking a look forthwith. Thanks Mike.

On Sunday, August 28, 2016, Michael D. Weisner <mweisner at ebsmed.com> wrote:

> Jay,
>
> Are you sure that you have the CDI not the GBI furler?  The CDI uses a
> "messenger line" style halyard to raise the sail permitting interchanging
> sails without dropping the mast or using a bosun. See the manual in our
> archives at:
> www.rhodes22.org/doclib/CDI-FlexibleFurlerModel2-Manual.pdf
>
> The archives also have a thread on the halyard replacement at:
> http://www.rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/2015-March/077310.html
>
> A short thread on the benefits of the CDI vs. the GBI is at::
> http://www.rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/2004-February/012464.html
>
> Mike
> s/v Wind Lass  ('91)
> Nissequogue River, NY
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
> <javascript:;>] On Behalf Of
> Jay Weiss
> Sent: Sunday, August 28, 2016 8:00 PM
> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org <javascript:;>
> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] CDI Flexible furler
>
> Live and learn.
> This past week while Hudson River sailing with a non responsive outboard
> (another story) we were surprised to witness our jib sliding down its
> furler.  The canvass loop at the head of the sail that attached it to its
> halyard's shackle had failed. We removed the sail from the furler and sent
> it to the sail maker, who said that the loop was unprotected from the sun's
> UV radiation even as the rest of the furled sail was protected by a cover.
> He replaced it and returned it.
> Now the question:
> It appears that I only need to place the bolt of the sail into the slot of
> the furler (near the deck) and slide it up toward the mast head and there
> attach it to the shackle that's remains there. The deck end of the halyard
> is then tightened around a cleat beside the drum as is the tack of the
> sail.
> Is that right?  (I'll be using a bosun's chair.) Ordinarily a jib halyard
> is
> lowered to deck level, attached to the head of the sail, and the sail then
> raised and the line secured on deck or on the mast. The CDI furler doesn't
> seem to work that way?  I purchased the boat used with its furler and
> foresail already installed so I'm totally unfamiliar with how it works.
>
> Jay Marshall Weiss
> Poughkeepsie, NY
> 1998 R-22
> Hanalei
>
>
> --
> Sent from Gmail Mobile
> __________________________________________________
> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to
> http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
>
> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go
> to
> http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> __________________________________________________
>
> __________________________________________________
> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/
> mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
>
> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go
> to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> __________________________________________________
>


-- 
Sent from Gmail Mobile

From C.Robert.Lester at dartmouth.edu  Mon Aug 29 23:32:44 2016
From: C.Robert.Lester at dartmouth.edu (C. Robert Lester)
Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2016 03:32:44 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Rhodes 22 Trailer for sale?
In-Reply-To: <4a960590-474d-b35f-2933-a5d7c06f5e2d@rhodes22.com>
References: <SN2PR03MB2383103E451EFA1D91A46DBEAE150@SN2PR03MB2383.namprd03.prod.outlook.com>
 <0cced530-0fc9-438f-e6a8-49b018e16362@rhodes22.com>
 <BLUPR0301MB2033BF39F85999DB7CC90946AEE10@BLUPR0301MB2033.namprd03.prod.outlook.com>
 <4a960590-474d-b35f-2933-a5d7c06f5e2d@rhodes22.com>
Message-ID: <BLUPR0301MB2033494239D92697DD9A4626AEE00@BLUPR0301MB2033.namprd03.prod.outlook.com>

Stan, as always thank you for the update.
Bob

-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Stan Spitzer
Sent: Monday, August 29, 2016 7:51 AM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Rhodes 22 Trailer for sale?

They run from 3K for painted frame used (made road worthy) brakeless  to 6K for new galvanized frame and wheels, heavy duty 6 lug hubs, brake 
models.   All have the standard Rhodes features of the long extension 
tongue and down cb loading, adjustable bow receiver and bunk conforming support system.  (Occasionally I see those on the List who think the boat is supported by the keel. That is 100% erroneous.  The keel does not touch the trailer.)  No used galvanized frame models currently in stock.

Hope this helps

stan


On 8/29/16 12:06 AM, C. Robert Lester wrote:
> Stan,
>
> Would you kindly send me prices on all trailer's?
>
> Thank you in advance,
>
> Bob
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On 
> Behalf Of Stan Spitzer
> Sent: Thursday, August 18, 2016 7:33 AM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Rhodes 22 Trailer for sale?
>
>
>

__________________________________________________
To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list

For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list __________________________________________________