[Rhodes22-list] Chainplate access

[The Rhodes 22 Email List]

Rick: 
Ok. We agree. I misunderstood your earlier message. How do you remove the
core without cutting out a section of the liner? There is something here
that I don't understand.
 Graham

-----Original Message-----
From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
[mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22 Email
List
Sent: January 7, 2016 5:05 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Chainplate access

Graham,

My plate was next to the cabin liner, not the outer fiberglass.  That is, I
believe, always the case whether the plate is straight down the cabin side
or bent across the cabin top.

I had the option of either cutting out a section of liner or a section of
core because of the right angle.  I chose to cut out the core which is more
work, but just as strong and better looking.

Rick

On Thu, Jan 7, 2016 at 4:46 PM, The Rhodes 22 Email List <
rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:

> Rick:
>
> On my boat the chain plate was positioned between the deck core and 
> the inside liner rather than the reverse as you seem to suggest. If 
> they are inserting a piece of core to replace what was damaged I would 
> be strongly inclined to use epoxy rather than 5200. Epoxy is stronger 
> and if the block and surrounding area is completely coated in epoxy it 
> is unlikely that rot will ever take hold there. It is also important 
> that the new block be very strongly attached to the surrounding core 
> material and epoxy is best for that as well. If your boat is like mine 
> was the chain plate is held to the core with only one small screw. If 
> the block it is attached to breaks loose the chain plate will wobble 
> and water will begin to work its way in through the slot in the deck. 
> Actually, because the single screw is so unstable, the wobbling will 
> probably occur anyway and that is all the more reason to have the 
> whole are sealed with epoxy.
>
> My 2 cents worth.
>
> Graham
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
> [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22 
> Email List
> Sent: January 7, 2016 3:11 PM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Chainplate access
>
> Charles,
>
> Sorry, can't really see the sandwiched-in chainplate with cell phone 
> quality pictures.
>
> I should have said they will replace the block of core supporting the 
> plate into which screws will be tapped up through the liner and plate
holes.
> Even though there is no rot, they will cut out core to allow space for 
> inserting the right angle bend of the plate through the fiberglass 
> slot on top.  That is, they will insert and position the plate first, 
> then slide the new block of core over the bent half of the plate with 
> 3M 5200 along the block edges.
>
> Rick
>
> On Thu, Jan 7, 2016 at 2:26 PM, The Rhodes 22 Email List < 
> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>
> > Any pictures?
> >
> >
> >
> > Charles
> >
> > > On Jan 7, 2016, at 1:11 PM, The Rhodes 22 Email List <
> > rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> > >
> > > It turns out my '93 has the right angle tang design with 2 screws 
> > > holding it to the underside of the cabin top plywood core.  Gained 
> > > access by removing the hatch over the head.
> > >
> > > No core rot.  One screw was sheared, probably when the forestay 
> > > pin
> > failed
> > > 10 years ago.  Since then, the other screw has been slowly tearing
> > through
> > > the wood while the tang re-bent.
> > >
> > > I'm going to have the pros cut out and replace the sliver of core 
> > > supporting the block.  They will secure the chainplate with screw 
> > > tapped through the liner, hiding them with the hatch cover framing.
> > >
> > > Rick
> > > __
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