[Rhodes22-list] hatch on foredeck

Graham Stewart gstewart8 at cogeco.ca
Sun Dec 1 19:31:31 EST 2019


The rub rails are not solid - as you can see in the attached photo - but the glass is probably thick enough to hold screws if they are installed properly. I my case I installed the chocks inboard of the rub rails where they were originally installed and could be bolted through the deck with fender washers and nuts on the inside. I don't trust screws for anything that takes a significant strain. However, I raised them up 1" on blocks of composite lumber so that the lines cleared the rub rails to avoid chafe and blemishes. 

The second photo shows where they were placed originally.

Graham

Graham Stewart
Agile 1976 Rhodes 22
Kingston Ontario



-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Peter Nyberg
Sent: Sunday, December 1, 2019 5:48 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] hatch on foredeck

Jesse,

Probably the simplest solution for your anchor rode issue would be to install chocks on the toe rail in positions that would lead the rode away from the vent.  My guess is that the toe rail is solid fiberglass, so you should be able to get a solid attachment.

—Peter

> On Dec 1, 2019, at 12:21 PM, Jesse Shumaker <jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Graham, Peter, and Mary Lou, thanks for your replies.  Mary Lou, you have an
> encyclopedic knowledge of R22 history.  Thanks for continuing to post even
> after selling your R22.  I read quite a bit about different pocket cruisers
> before deciding what type of boat I wanted and your chapter in the Sailing
> Small book helped steer me towards a Rhodes 22.
> 
> Since I'm installing the solar vent fan in the anchor locker hole near the
> bow, I'll just see how sleeping in the v-birth goes with that in place.  The
> former owner wired in a fan to the electrical connection for the light above
> the porta potty and I can point that towards the v-birth to help with
> airflow.  The former owner also left onboard another 12v fan that I could
> plug in and use in the main part of the cabin if needed.  I would be
> reluctant to cut another hole in the deck since each additional hole comes
> with it's own risk of water problems and adding a hatch would involve
> additional expense.
> 
> It appears that use of solar vent fan in the existing 3" hole near the bow
> is a common approach.  As I was installing mine, it occurred to me that this
> could affect anchoring since the bow cleat is aft of the solar vent.  For
> those with a solar vent, I was wondering what approach you take for running
> the rode.  Here are some approaches that came to mind initially:
> 
> - Run the rode around the outside of the bow pulpit to avoid any pressure
> against the solar vent.  With this approach, perhaps the rode could be run
> through the u-bolt on the hull on the bow to ensure the anchor rode extends
> directly in front of the boat
> 
> -Run alongside and against the the solar vent.  With this approach, perhaps
> it would be possible to put some sort of protection around the solar vent
> when anchoring.  I was concerned that pressure from the rode against the
> solar vent could cause damage to the plastic solar vent or chafe against the
> sealant at the base of the solar vent.
> 
> - Use some sort of bridal system that would go around both sides the solar
> vent and perhaps outside the bow pulpit.
> 
> Any advice on this would be appreciated.  I've done very little anchoring so
> I'm especially a novice in this area.
> 
> 
> 
> --
> Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/
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