[Rhodes22-list] Where to find parts?

Alexis Seigneurin alexis.seigneurin at gmail.com
Mon Jan 7 16:59:38 EST 2019


Cary: I contacted Beckson as per your suggestion for the coaming frames,
but they don't have that :(

Graham: that sounds good. I will inspect how much water made it into the
core.

Thanks,
Alexis

On Mon, Jan 7, 2019 at 3:18 PM Graham Stewart <gstewart8 at cogeco.ca> wrote:

> Alexis:
> The cracks are definitely a sign that the port needs to be replaced.
>
> I would suggest that you try to drill into the core from inside the hole to
> see how deep the water has penetrated. Hopefully not far. The holes will
> also allow the core material to dry out faster and allow for the epoxy to
> penetrate further if you use a syringe. If the damp wood does not go too
> far, I would use something like a dremmel tool to remove it and then seal
> with epoxy and fill with thickened epoxy.
>
> If the wood is wet further in than what you can remove you might have a
> more
> involved repair on your hands. In that case I would drill up through the
> liner in a pattern of holes that fan out from the hole until you hit dry
> wood. Drill lots of holes where the wood is wet. You now need to let it dry
> out. Test for dryness with new holes. It might take a long time unless you
> can figure out a way to push warm air into the core. I used a shop vac for
> this purpose.  You would then need to figure out a way to inject epoxy into
> the core without it all running back out -perhaps with tape. When I did
> mine
> I drilled the holes from above because I knew I was going to glass and
> paint
> the whole deck anyway. That meant that the epoxy didn't drip through. It
> might still be easier even if you have to patch a section of the deck.
>
> I had a leak around a holding tank vent in my dick. I actually removed the
> deck and separated the liner and removed the core plywood - something that
> turned out to be unnecessary. My point in telling you this is that when I
> got to examine the plywood I found that while the hole for the vent was
> only
> about 1/2" in diameter, the wet plywood extended out about a foot. If I had
> sealed the edge of the plywood at the hole when it was dry I would have
> sealed in all the water-infused plywood that was further in.
>
> Hopefully you caught the leak early on and none of this is necessary.
>
>
> Graham Stewart
> Agile 1976 Rhodes 22
> Kingston Ontario
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf
> Of
> Alexis Seigneurin
> Sent: Monday, January 7, 2019 2:32 PM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Where to find parts?
>
> Thanks all for your replies and suggestions.
>
> Just to confirm, the water on the ceiling of the v-berth *is* condensation:
> water leaks into the triangular tray/bucket, accumulates there, then
> temperature changes make the water condensate on the ceiling (boat is in
> Deltaville, and Sunday was a warm day, but night was cold). Water is
> localized in the v-berth, thus eliminating the bilge as a source of water,
> and doesn't condensate on areas where the deck is thicker (see the picture
> I had attached in my first email).
>
> The reason why I am looking at replacing the hatch rather than just
> re-sealing it is because the plastic is brittle and is cracked around 2 of
> the screws.
>
> The sealant that was used is silicone. Not very durable, so I'm not
> surprised it has to be re-sealed. The plywood core had not been protected
> when installing this hatch, though, so it is wet. It if not soft, though,
> so my hope is I can get it to dry before sealing it with epoxy and
> installing a new hatch.
>
> I like the idea of the Nicro vent as I am thinking of keeping the anchor in
> the lazarette. Thanks Mary Lou for the suggestion.
>
> Alexis
>
> On Mon, Jan 7, 2019 at 11:52 AM Cary Tolbert <retiredtoby at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> > Alexis, for parts to the existing ports on a Rhodes 22 please try Beckson
> > Marine. This is the OME parts place.
> > You can even print their installation instructions. They will sell direct
> > to individuals and are located in Bridgeport, CT.
> >
> >
> >
> > Cary Tolbert
> > S/V Whisper '86
> >
> >
> > On Mon, Jan 7, 2019 at 11:30 AM Graham Stewart <gstewart8 at cogeco.ca>
> > wrote:
> >
> > > Alexis:
> > >
> > > All the responses before mine are completely sensible. I also wonder
> > > whether
> > > the source is really the deck hatch or condensation. Pouring water on
> the
> > > hatch would tell you if it is leaking. Further, you would want to know
> if
> > > the leak is between the outside of the port and the deck hole or the
> > inside
> > > where it is threaded. If it leaks around the outside then, as others
> > > suggest, rebedding is what is sufficient - provided, of course that you
> > can
> > > get it out of the deck hole without destroying it. If silicone was used
> > it
> > > should not be difficult to remove and also would likely explain why it
> is
> > > leaking. If something like 5200 was used, you might need dynamite to
> get
> > it
> > > out.
> > >
> > > If the port is leaking internally, replacement is probably the best
> > choice.
> > > If the leak is around the outside seal be sure to check your core
> > material
> > > incase water has been entering the core and doing its nasty work. In
> any
> > > event I would strongly recommend that you seal the core edge very well
> > with
> > > epoxy and not rely solely on sealant. By the way, I like to use butyl
> > tape
> > > rather than sealant in such places if there is any possibility that you
> > > might need to remove the hatch again in the future.
> > >
> > > As for the coaming frame, if you can't get one from Stan or anyone else
> > you
> > > might do what I did and install edge trim such as this:
> > >
> > >
> >
>
> https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00KGAKG2G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie
> > > =UTF8&psc=1
> > > <
> >
>
> https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00KGAKG2G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie
> =UTF8&psc=1
> <https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00KGAKG2G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1>
> > >
> > > . Note that is the Canadian Amazon site and you would want to
> > > look it up on the US site. The frame would certainly look much better
> if
> > > you
> > > can find it.
> > >
> > >
> > > Graham Stewart
> > > Agile 1976 Rhodes 22
> > > Kingston Ontario
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On
> > Behalf
> > > Of
> > > Alexis Seigneurin
> > > Sent: Sunday, January 6, 2019 10:54 PM
> > > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
> > > Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Where to find parts?
> > >
> > > Hi there,
> > >
> > > I found today that there was quite a lot of water on the ceiling of the
> > > V-berth of my boat (see attached picture). Fortunately, there's some
> kind
> > > of triangular bucket that collects this water, so nothing got damaged
> in
> > > the V-berth.
> > >
> > > I found that the inspection hatch that is at the bow of the boat was
> the
> > > culprit for this leak. I went to West Marine but couldn't find a
> > > replacement. The inside diameter is 3-1/2", but the smallest that was
> > > available in store was 4".
> > >
> > > My questions are:
> > > - What is this hatch used for?
> > > - Should I replace this hatch with an identical one, or should I open a
> > > larger hole to fit a 4" hatch?
> > > - If I should get an identical hatch, any idea where I can find one?
> > >
> > > I would also like to replace the plastic frame of the cockpit shelves.
> > One
> > > of them is broken, but again, West Marine doesn't seem to have that in
> > > store. Do you happen to know where I can find replacement parts?
> > >
> > > Pictures attached so that you can see what I mean.
> > >
> > > Thanks!
> > > Alexis
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