[Rhodes22-list] Where to find parts?

Mon Jan 7 23:24:12 EST 2019

Graham,

It looks like you went through a very extensive restoration project. I am seriously impressed by the amount of work you put into this.

I don’t think my boat - built in 1992- is anywhere close to that stage of delamination. Hopefully this is just localized around the hatch...

The picture I sent earlier can be seen here: http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20190108/95e7305d/attachment.jpe
Alexis

Alexis

________________________________
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of Graham Stewart <gstewart8 at cogeco.ca>
Sent: Monday, January 7, 2019 10:47 PM
To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List'
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Where to find parts?

Alexis:

The photos didn't come through properly. What year is your boat? Mine is an
older boat built in 1976. I know that in later years Stan substantially
improved the deck construction.

I found that the plywood core of my boat had gradually delaminated
throughout the deck. Not only that, but the various layers of the plywood
had also delaminated and the top layer had delaminated from the deck skin as
well. The plywood seemed to be just cheap plywood and the adhesive that
bound it all to the skins seemed to be sealant that was spread with a
calking gun very sparingly and often had not even been squeezed against the
glass. I was able to separate the liner from the plywood and remove most of
the plywood from the deck skin with my hands. What I thought might be rot,
when I found the deck had become soft, was delamination.

I have posted photos and descriptions of what I did to repair the deck and
that should all be in the archives but if you are interested and can't find
the postings I can send it out again. In the mean time I have attached two
picture of the edge of the deck after I cut the foredeck off. You will see
the delimitation.

If the deck isn't soft or giving you other problems I would let it pass. The
fix, which involves injecting epoxy through the deck skin into the core is
time consuming and also requires that the deck skin be restored. That was a
huge amount of work and might well be unnecessary.

Graham

Graham Stewart
Agile 1976 Rhodes 22
Kingston Ontario

-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of
Alexis Seigneurin
Sent: Monday, January 7, 2019 9:42 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Where to find parts?

It turns out I have a picture that shows the core of the deck after removing
the hatch. I am attaching it here.

It looks like the bottom part of the fiberglass is delaminated. Not sure how
big of an issue this is yet...

[Image]

Alexis

________________________________
From: Alexis Seigneurin <alexis.seigneurin at gmail.com>
Sent: Monday, January 7, 2019 4:59 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Where to find parts?

Cary: I contacted Beckson as per your suggestion for the coaming frames, but
they don't have that :(

Graham: that sounds good. I will inspect how much water made it into the
core.

Thanks,
Alexis

On Mon, Jan 7, 2019 at 3:18 PM Graham Stewart
<gstewart8 at cogeco.ca<mailto:gstewart8 at cogeco.ca>> wrote:
Alexis:
The cracks are definitely a sign that the port needs to be replaced.

I would suggest that you try to drill into the core from inside the hole to
see how deep the water has penetrated. Hopefully not far. The holes will
also allow the core material to dry out faster and allow for the epoxy to
penetrate further if you use a syringe. If the damp wood does not go too
far, I would use something like a dremmel tool to remove it and then seal
with epoxy and fill with thickened epoxy.

If the wood is wet further in than what you can remove you might have a more
involved repair on your hands. In that case I would drill up through the
liner in a pattern of holes that fan out from the hole until you hit dry
wood. Drill lots of holes where the wood is wet. You now need to let it dry
out. Test for dryness with new holes. It might take a long time unless you
can figure out a way to push warm air into the core. I used a shop vac for
this purpose. You would then need to figure out a way to inject epoxy into
the core without it all running back out -perhaps with tape. When I did mine
I drilled the holes from above because I knew I was going to glass and paint
the whole deck anyway. That meant that the epoxy didn't drip through. It
might still be easier even if you have to patch a section of the deck.

I had a leak around a holding tank vent in my dick. I actually removed the
deck and separated the liner and removed the core plywood - something that
turned out to be unnecessary. My point in telling you this is that when I
got to examine the plywood I found that while the hole for the vent was only
about 1/2" in diameter, the wet plywood extended out about a foot. If I had
sealed the edge of the plywood at the hole when it was dry I would have
sealed in all the water-infused plywood that was further in.

Hopefully you caught the leak early on and none of this is necessary.

Graham Stewart
Agile 1976 Rhodes 22
Kingston Ontario

-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list
[mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org<mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhod
es22.org>] On Behalf Of
Alexis Seigneurin
Sent: Monday, January 7, 2019 2:32 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Where to find parts?

Thanks all for your replies and suggestions.

Just to confirm, the water on the ceiling of the v-berth *is* condensation:
water leaks into the triangular tray/bucket, accumulates there, then
temperature changes make the water condensate on the ceiling (boat is in
Deltaville, and Sunday was a warm day, but night was cold). Water is
localized in the v-berth, thus eliminating the bilge as a source of water,
and doesn't condensate on areas where the deck is thicker (see the picture
I had attached in my first email).

The reason why I am looking at replacing the hatch rather than just
re-sealing it is because the plastic is brittle and is cracked around 2 of
the screws.

The sealant that was used is silicone. Not very durable, so I'm not
surprised it has to be re-sealed. The plywood core had not been protected
when installing this hatch, though, so it is wet. It if not soft, though,
so my hope is I can get it to dry before sealing it with epoxy and
installing a new hatch.

I like the idea of the Nicro vent as I am thinking of keeping the anchor in
the lazarette. Thanks Mary Lou for the suggestion.

Alexis

On Mon, Jan 7, 2019 at 11:52 AM Cary Tolbert
<retiredtoby at gmail.com<mailto:retiredtoby at gmail.com>> wrote:

> Alexis, for parts to the existing ports on a Rhodes 22 please try Beckson
> Marine. This is the OME parts place.
> You can even print their installation instructions. They will sell direct
> to individuals and are located in Bridgeport, CT.
>
>
>
> Cary Tolbert
> S/V Whisper '86
>
>
> On Mon, Jan 7, 2019 at 11:30 AM Graham Stewart
<gstewart8 at cogeco.ca<mailto:gstewart8 at cogeco.ca>>
> wrote:
>
> > Alexis:
> >
> > All the responses before mine are completely sensible. I also wonder
> > whether
> > the source is really the deck hatch or condensation. Pouring water on
the
> > hatch would tell you if it is leaking. Further, you would want to know
if
> > the leak is between the outside of the port and the deck hole or the
> inside
> > where it is threaded. If it leaks around the outside then, as others
> > suggest, rebedding is what is sufficient - provided, of course that you
> can
> > get it out of the deck hole without destroying it. If silicone was used
> it
> > should not be difficult to remove and also would likely explain why it
is
> > leaking. If something like 5200 was used, you might need dynamite to get
> it
> > out.
> >
> > If the port is leaking internally, replacement is probably the best
> choice.
> > If the leak is around the outside seal be sure to check your core
> material
> > incase water has been entering the core and doing its nasty work. In any
> > event I would strongly recommend that you seal the core edge very well
> with
> > epoxy and not rely solely on sealant. By the way, I like to use butyl
> tape
> > rather than sealant in such places if there is any possibility that you
> > might need to remove the hatch again in the future.
> >
> > As for the coaming frame, if you can't get one from Stan or anyone else
> you
> > might do what I did and install edge trim such as this:
> >
> >
>
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00KGAKG2G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie
> > =UTF8&psc=1
> > <
>
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00KGAKG2G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie
=UTF8&psc=1<https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00KGAKG2G/ref=oh_aui_detailpag
e_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1>
> >
> > . Note that is the Canadian Amazon site and you would want to
> > look it up on the US site. The frame would certainly look much better if
> > you
> > can find it.
> >
> >
> > Graham Stewart
> > Agile 1976 Rhodes 22
> > Kingston Ontario
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Rhodes22-list
[mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org<mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhod
es22.org>] On
> Behalf
> > Of
> > Alexis Seigneurin
> > Sent: Sunday, January 6, 2019 10:54 PM
> > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
> > Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Where to find parts?
> >
> > Hi there,
> >
> > I found today that there was quite a lot of water on the ceiling of the
> > V-berth of my boat (see attached picture). Fortunately, there's some
kind
> > of triangular bucket that collects this water, so nothing got damaged in
> > the V-berth.
> >
> > I found that the inspection hatch that is at the bow of the boat was the
> > culprit for this leak. I went to West Marine but couldn't find a
> > replacement. The inside diameter is 3-1/2", but the smallest that was
> > available in store was 4".
> >
> > My questions are:
> > - What is this hatch used for?
> > - Should I replace this hatch with an identical one, or should I open a
> > larger hole to fit a 4" hatch?
> > - If I should get an identical hatch, any idea where I can find one?
> >
> > I would also like to replace the plastic frame of the cockpit shelves.
> One
> > of them is broken, but again, West Marine doesn't seem to have that in
> > store. Do you happen to know where I can find replacement parts?
> >
> > Pictures attached so that you can see what I mean.
> >
> > Thanks!
> > Alexis
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