[Rhodes22-list] Replacing Centerboard Gasket

Mon Sep 30 11:11:19 EDT 2019

Ric,
So sorry to hear about your misadventure. In the past GB has been able 
to provide replacement centerboard caps. I remember at an Annapolis 
gathering one year one of the attendees walking around with his brand 
new cap from Stan. I would try to contact him first.
Best of luck,
Mary Lou

On 9/30/2019 10:44 AM, Richard Stott wrote:
> Boy do I have a gasket/cap project!
> The attached photo shows what can happen  when the boat is launched with the Center Board line not cleated.
> Here is the story - and I’m sticking to it.
> I have had my ’84 Continental since I inherited it from my dad who bought it used in ’89.
> I have re-bult most of the interior and I use the boat a lot.
> For 6 years I’ve had it hauled and lunched professionally back and forth to my driveway.
> This year I finally completed that trailer rebuild project and hauled it for the first time on the rebuilt trailer.
> Everything went smoothly until the boat was out and I was not happy with the balance on the trailer.
> I decided to re-lauch and move the boat further toward the trailer tongue.
> While the boat was out, I asked my helper to release the ‘red’ line on the bulkhead - I was going to begin de-rigging and roll up the jib fuller, but got distracted with the boat position. .
> I meant the jib fuller, but my helper ( good sailer, but not familiar with the boat)  released the CB cleat (also red) which I didn’t realize.
> When we relaunched, the boat slid nicely off the trailer and into the shallow water at the ramp.
> The CB deployed as the boat was moving backward - and hit the shallow bottom.
>
> Before we realized what happened, we had the boat back on the trailer.
> Something was odd, but I didn’t know what.
> When we pulled it the 2nd time, the trailer tires looked flat and the trailer seemed even more unbalanced - it was also pouring water from the boat.
> I climbed on and discovered the CB popping through the CB trunk cap and water had filled the boat to the a few inches over the cabin sole floor.
> We had managed to ‘sink’ Dadventure, right on its new trailer.
> Flooded the pull-out storage box, my tool box, multi-meter and lots of stuff that doesn’t like to be wet.
> It broke  the 3/4” plywood sole cover in the process, which is an easy fix - the cap - not so much.
> What a mess!
>
> I was considering replacing my original CB with a Diamond Board - maybe now is the time.
> Can anyone explain the pros/cons of such a change?
> Can I get a new cap from Stan or do I have to rebuild one myself?
>
> I can tell you with certainty that the same thing will never happen again, but this is a major repair that I didn’t expect.
> Ric
>   sv Dadventure
>
> Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP
> www.stottarchitecture.com
> Office	631-283-1777
> Cell		516-965-3164
>
>
>
>
>
>> On Sep 30, 2019, at 9:56 AM, Mitch Mitchell <mitchpadl at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> Wow! Thanks for the info. Sounds like that was quite a project. Hopefully
>> all I will need to do is replace the gasket. I like the idea of bolts and
>> washers.
>>
>> On Mon, Sep 30, 2019 at 12:18 AM Graham Stewart <gstewart8 at cogeco.ca> wrote:
>>
>>> Mitch:
>>>
>>> Replacing the gasket is not difficult but is a major PITA. Any
>>> reconstruction of the cap or flange is also a possibility and adds to the
>>> pain. Good idea to check it out in the water before you take it all apart.
>>>
>>> Eventually, however, it will probably be necessary to do this job if for
>>> no other reason than to replace the line and pulleys.
>>> On my boat the removal of the cap was made infinitely worse by virtue of
>>> the fact that some previous owner used 5200 sealant and then put fiberglass
>>> over the top of the cap. As a result I broke the cap in two pieces getting
>>> it off and damaged the housing flange with large gouges. Hopefully you will
>>> not face that issue. No one else has reported a similar problem on this
>>> list that I have seen.
>>>
>>> I would replace the screws with stainless steel bolts and use large fender
>>> washers and lock washers.I think it is better to punch clean holes in the
>>> gasket rather than drilling them.
>>>
>>> I did not think I had access to the proper gasket material and substituted
>>> other neoprene material that I thought would work.  As a result I could not
>>> get a perfect seal without using a sealant. I chose to use butyl tape as it
>>> makes an excellent seal but has very low adhesive properties and so is easy
>>> to remove when the time comes. Butyl is not rated for underwater use but so
>>> far has worked well for me in fresh water. Better to get the proper gasket
>>> material.
>>>
>>> BTW, I was able to remove the cap and the centerboard while the boat was
>>> on its trailer and have not heard of others needing to raise the boat for
>>> that purpose but keep in mind that there appears to be a lot of variation
>>> in the construction of the boat over the years and what works for one
>>> person might not work in another situation. My boat is a 1976 model so it
>>> has the older version of the centerboard. However, I would try to do the
>>> work while on the trailer first and raise the boat only if that becomes
>>> necessary.
>>>
>>> While removing the centerboard and fixing the enclosure cap and flange
>>> could be done while on the trailer, I discovered that I had serious damage
>>> to the bottom of the keel housing with a large crack that went almost
>>> entirely around the housing slot. So in the end I had to build a huge lift
>>> so that I could work under the keel. My lift was a major project in itself
>>> and probably overkill as I later learned that one person was able to
>>> support the stern of the boat on a picnic table and support the front with
>>> some sort of sawhorse arrangement. So there are definitely easier ways to
>>> do this than what I did. The advantage of the lift is that I can raise the
>>> boat high enough (5' between the bottom of the keel and the ground) to work
>>> more comfortably under the keel and can also use it for my other two boats.
>>> However, it is a very large structure. I can send pictures of the lift if
>>> anyone is interested.
>>>
>>>
>>> Graham Stewart
>>> Agile 1976 Rhodes 22
>>> Kingston Ontario
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf
>>> Of Mitch Mitchell
>>> Sent: Sunday, September 29, 2019 10:34 PM
>>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
>>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Replacing Centerboard Gasket
>>>
>>> Thanks JP! Did you have to lower the centerboard to replace the gasket? If
>>> that' the case then I would have to get the boat off of the trailer. The
>>> screws in the cap look good (not rusty) but there are no washers. I haven't
>>> removed the top cap yet but thought I would put the boat in the water once
>>> more with the floorboard out so I could see if it was leaking. MM
>>>
>>> On Sun, Sep 29, 2019 at 7:14 PM JP Dempsey <joedempsey at hughes.net> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Mitch, I had the same problem last year and finally determined that the
>>>> centerboard gasket was the problem. They dry rot eventually. It is a
>>>> "fairly" simple job that I ended up doing myself, but you'll have to
>>>> purchase a new gasket. I would have purchased from Stan but the
>>> centerboard
>>>> trunk cover was cracked and needed repair that I was not willing to
>>>> attempt.
>>>> Also you want to be sure that you drill holes that will match the
>>> existing
>>>> holes in you CB trunk flange and cover. I have a large collection of
>>> photos
>>>> that I took during the process. Removal of the trunk cover begins with
>>>> removing the port berth/settee and the supporting structure in front of
>>> the
>>>> companionway. You'll need to remove the center section of the floorboard
>>>> (sole) that runs from the inspection hatch back to beneath the
>>>> companionway.
>>>> (I removed all of the floorboards and found that they were severely
>>> molded.
>>>> These I replaced with new marine plywood treated with wood preservative
>>> and
>>>> multiple coats of urethane marine varnish.) You will need to lower the
>>> CB.
>>>> I
>>>> placed a block of wood underneath. Also you'll have to remove the painter
>>>> tube between the companionway and the CB cover. If there is any rust on
>>> the
>>>> machine screws, replace them. McMaster-Carr is the best source. Use only
>>>> 316
>>>> grade stainless steel. Also if your CB gasket is not fastened using
>>> fender
>>>> washers (mine wasn't) get them for both above and below the flange. I did
>>>> all of this work while on the trailer during the off season. I believe
>>> its
>>>> also wise to re-seat all of the port lites and  if you ever replace the
>>> rub
>>>> rail, re-caulk the topside/hull joint with 4200 Sealant. I'm attaching
>>>> photos that I hope will help.
>>>> <
>>>>
>>> http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/file/t752/Cabin_Sole_Original_Sub_Floor_Before.jpg
>>>>
>>>> <http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/file/t752/CB_Cover_w_Pump.jpg>
>>>> <http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/file/t752/CB_Gasket.jpg>
>>>> <http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/file/t752/Bilge_2_After.jpg>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> -----
>>>> JP Dempsey
>>>> s/v Respite
>>>> Rhodes 22 1989/2005
>>>> Marshall,VA
>>>> --
>>>> Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/
>>>>
>>>
>

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