From roger_pihlaja at msn.com Wed Apr 1 06:38:15 2020 From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA) Date: Wed, 1 Apr 2020 10:38:15 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Keep well In-Reply-To: <1585704183425-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1585498371609-0.post@n5.nabble.com>, <1585704183425-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: Hi All, This is where its nice to live on a lake and have a boat slip in your own back yard. My 2 sons will help me launch the boat and put the swim platform in the water over the long Memorial Day weekend. Around here, its usually too cold earlier than that anyway. My wife and I have already gone for a few evening canoe rides. Roger Pihlaja S/V Dynamic Equilibrium Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Jesse Shumaker Sent: Tuesday, March 31, 2020 9:23 PM To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Keep well At the sailing club at the local lake, we normally use a lot of man power to get the floating T dock by the ramp installed. Since that is not an option this year, we're going to use the same company that normally puts in our floating slips since they have equipment to accomplish that. I suspect we may use them in future years as well if the fee is reasonable. Unless their crew gets sidelined and has to quarantine, the docks and slips will be in by late April. So far it looks like we'll have access to sail, but we won't be doing the typical social functions. It will be a nice to get out on the boat for some fresh air! Hope you all are doing well as can be. -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com Wed Apr 1 08:47:19 2020 From: chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com (Chris Geankoplis) Date: Wed, 1 Apr 2020 08:47:19 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Keep well In-Reply-To: References: <1585498371609-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1585704183425-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: Sounds lovely. Chris G. ENOSIS On Wed, 1 Apr 2020 at 06:38, ROGER PIHLAJA wrote: > Hi All, > > This is where its nice to live on a lake and have a boat slip in your own > back yard. My 2 sons will help me launch the boat and put the swim > platform in the water over the long Memorial Day weekend. Around here, its > usually too cold earlier than that anyway. My wife and I have already gone > for a few evening canoe rides. > > Roger Pihlaja > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > > From: Jesse Shumaker > Sent: Tuesday, March 31, 2020 9:23 PM > To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Keep well > > At the sailing club at the local lake, we normally use a lot of man power > to > get the floating T dock by the ramp installed. Since that is not an option > this year, we're going to use the same company that normally puts in our > floating slips since they have equipment to accomplish that. I suspect we > may use them in future years as well if the fee is reasonable. Unless > their > crew gets sidelined and has to quarantine, the docks and slips will be in > by > late April. So far it looks like we'll have access to sail, but we won't > be > doing the typical social functions. It will be a nice to get out on the > boat for some fresh air! Hope you all are doing well as can be. > > > > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > > From bferguson at jcu.edu Wed Apr 1 10:18:29 2020 From: bferguson at jcu.edu (NewIn76) Date: Wed, 1 Apr 2020 07:18:29 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] V-Berth Board materials In-Reply-To: <061f01d607cf$a66cc820$f3465860$@ca> References: <1585675158192-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <061f01d607cf$a66cc820$f3465860$@ca> Message-ID: <1585750709593-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Thanks Graham. I'm tempted to still put a layer of fiberglass over mine for some waterproofing, but good to hear about your situation. Stan, you never cease to amaze me. Were you referring to my boat that had a owner accident 30 years ago? I'm intrigued. For any one else reading this, yes I bought an older Rhodes, a '76 in fact. She'll likely never be as nice as a Recycled Rhodes and I probably should have saved more for a newer one, but I saw an opportunity to get something that I could tinker with and learn from. Maybe there's a newer Rhodes in my future. ----- Brian 1976 Rhodes 22 Cleveland -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From stan at generalboats.com Wed Apr 1 10:40:19 2020 From: stan at generalboats.com (stan) Date: Wed, 1 Apr 2020 10:40:19 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] V-Berth Board materials In-Reply-To: <1585750709593-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1585675158192-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <061f01d607cf$a66cc820$f3465860$@ca> <1585750709593-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: thanks Brian, that makes two of us. No, I was referring to the year 76 in general.? What we did in our youth is not what we are doing in our dotage.? You can not take away learning as one of the good things that come with aging.? In an email to the List following this one, we will be covering the 50 year evolution in outhaul car design that makes this point. Stand by. stan On 4/1/20 10:18 AM, NewIn76 via Rhodes22-list wrote: > Thanks Graham. I'm tempted to still put a layer of fiberglass over mine for > some waterproofing, but good to hear about your situation. > > Stan, you never cease to amaze me. Were you referring to my boat that had a > owner accident 30 years ago? I'm intrigued. > > For any one else reading this, yes I bought an older Rhodes, a '76 in fact. > She'll likely never be as nice as a Recycled Rhodes and I probably should > have saved more for a newer one, but I saw an opportunity to get something > that I could tinker with and learn from. Maybe there's a newer Rhodes in my > future. > > > > ----- > Brian > 1976 Rhodes 22 > Cleveland > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > From gstewart8 at cogeco.ca Wed Apr 1 10:42:57 2020 From: gstewart8 at cogeco.ca (Graham Stewart) Date: Wed, 1 Apr 2020 10:42:57 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] V-Berth Board materials In-Reply-To: <1585750709593-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1585675158192-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <061f01d607cf$a66cc820$f3465860$@ca> <1585750709593-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <063801d60833$d81f90f0$885eb2d0$@ca> Brian: If you think some degree of waterproofing is necessary an easier option would be to simply coat the boards with a couple of coats of epoxy. Epoxy is water vapor impermeable - much better than polyester - and a lot easier to apply than fiberglass. The only reason to use fiberglass that I can think of would be where you need additional strength. Graham -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of NewIn76 via Rhodes22-list Sent: Wednesday, April 1, 2020 10:18 AM To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] V-Berth Board materials Thanks Graham. I'm tempted to still put a layer of fiberglass over mine for some waterproofing, but good to hear about your situation. Stan, you never cease to amaze me. Were you referring to my boat that had a owner accident 30 years ago? I'm intrigued. For any one else reading this, yes I bought an older Rhodes, a '76 in fact. She'll likely never be as nice as a Recycled Rhodes and I probably should have saved more for a newer one, but I saw an opportunity to get something that I could tinker with and learn from. Maybe there's a newer Rhodes in my future. ----- Brian 1976 Rhodes 22 Cleveland -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From mweisner at ebsmed.com Wed Apr 1 10:48:30 2020 From: mweisner at ebsmed.com (Michael D. Weisner) Date: Wed, 1 Apr 2020 10:48:30 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] V-Berth Board materials In-Reply-To: <1585750709593-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1585675158192-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <061f01d607cf$a66cc820$f3465860$@ca> <1585750709593-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <001d01d60834$9dcda530$d968ef90$@ebsmed.com> Brian, I think that Stan was responding to my email about my '91 (nearly 30 years old) when he said, "I know the boat you purchased had some owner associated incident I never saw so can't speak to it's particular interior but it was such a good deal and now is 30 years old, time for the latest of everything Rhodes." I replaced my original '81 (purchased directly from Stan in October 1980) with a '91 that had been flooded and laid on its side in the shallows during a bad storm from a previous owner. Mike s/v Wind Lass ('91) Nissequogue River, NY -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of NewIn76 via Rhodes22-list Sent: Wednesday, April 1, 2020 10:18 AM To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] V-Berth Board materials Thanks Graham. I'm tempted to still put a layer of fiberglass over mine for some waterproofing, but good to hear about your situation. Stan, you never cease to amaze me. Were you referring to my boat that had a owner accident 30 years ago? I'm intrigued. For any one else reading this, yes I bought an older Rhodes, a '76 in fact. She'll likely never be as nice as a Recycled Rhodes and I probably should have saved more for a newer one, but I saw an opportunity to get something that I could tinker with and learn from. Maybe there's a newer Rhodes in my future. ----- Brian 1976 Rhodes 22 Cleveland -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From bferguson at jcu.edu Wed Apr 1 11:08:12 2020 From: bferguson at jcu.edu (NewIn76) Date: Wed, 1 Apr 2020 08:08:12 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] V-Berth Board materials In-Reply-To: <063801d60833$d81f90f0$885eb2d0$@ca> References: <1585675158192-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <061f01d607cf$a66cc820$f3465860$@ca> <1585750709593-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <063801d60833$d81f90f0$885eb2d0$@ca> Message-ID: <1585753692755-0.post@n5.nabble.com> That's a good idea and you're right, a lot less work. Thanks. ----- Brian 1976 Rhodes 22 Cleveland -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From edwardstewart at verizon.net Wed Apr 1 22:24:58 2020 From: edwardstewart at verizon.net (Edward Stewart) Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2020 02:24:58 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Boat Moving Companies References: <354060546.538937.1585794298194.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <354060546.538937.1585794298194@mail.yahoo.com> Hello All,I'm new to posting to the list, but have had my Rhodes 2018, a 2002 recycled by Stan in 2018. I've been lurking since and appreciate all the knowledge and experience on the list. I am in the process of relocating from Annapolis, MD to Lake Medina, outside of San Antonio, TX. I have a 1978 single axle triad trailer without brakes. This works for my twice yearly launch and recovery, but I don't trust it for the 1,700 mile trip to Texas. I got one quote from Coast to Coast Marine Transport out of Midland, NC based on some feedback from my marina.?Was hoping someone might be able to recommend a boat transport company.Thanks,Eds/v GooberNugget Edward W. Stewart edwardstewart at verizon.net From ccowie at cowieassociates.com Thu Apr 2 07:33:03 2020 From: ccowie at cowieassociates.com (Chris Cowie) Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2020 11:33:03 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Boat Moving Companies In-Reply-To: <354060546.538937.1585794298194@mail.yahoo.com> References: <354060546.538937.1585794298194.ref@mail.yahoo.com>, <354060546.538937.1585794298194@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Check with Richard B for boat transport rbeytagh at gmail.com Please note our new office address and phone number Christopher P. Cowie [cid:image001.png at 01CA3AD3.5BD581F0] [cid:image002.png at 01CA3AD3.5BD581F0] 700 N Fairfax Street Suite 304 Alexandria, Virginia 22314 703.717.9103 ex.204 ? 202.270.1470 mobile [ccowie at cowieassociates.com] [cid:image001.jpg at 01D24014.7A2D04E0] Please consider the environment before printing this email. On Apr 1, 2020, at 10:25 PM, Edward Stewart via Rhodes22-list wrote: ?Hello All,I'm new to posting to the list, but have had my Rhodes 2018, a 2002 recycled by Stan in 2018. I've been lurking since and appreciate all the knowledge and experience on the list. I am in the process of relocating from Annapolis, MD to Lake Medina, outside of San Antonio, TX. I have a 1978 single axle triad trailer without brakes. This works for my twice yearly launch and recovery, but I don't trust it for the 1,700 mile trip to Texas. I got one quote from Coast to Coast Marine Transport out of Midland, NC based on some feedback from my marina. Was hoping someone might be able to recommend a boat transport company.Thanks,Eds/v GooberNugget Edward W. Stewart edwardstewart at verizon.net From rbeytagh at gmail.com Thu Apr 2 09:28:12 2020 From: rbeytagh at gmail.com (Richard Beytagh) Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2020 09:28:12 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Boat Moving Companies In-Reply-To: <354060546.538937.1585794298194@mail.yahoo.com> References: <354060546.538937.1585794298194.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <354060546.538937.1585794298194@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Hi Edward I can do this haul for you. I have a twin axle trailer that I use for my Rhodes and have done quite a few deliveries with this, including 2 epic trips from Edenton NC to Seattle WA and back. My fees are $2:00 per loaded mile and 20c per mile for use of the trailer. Estimate $2.20 at 1700 miles $3740. This would be billed at actual miles at the end of the journey and any tolls or other road taxes would be added at actual. I have a F250 Super Duty truck and I include haul-out, secure for journey and relaunch if needed. Timing is dependent on the status of the Coronavirus lock-down. All the best ~~~ _/) ~~~ Richard Beytagh Phone: 828 337 0180 On Wed, Apr 1, 2020 at 10:25 PM Edward Stewart via Rhodes22-list < rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote: > Hello All,I'm new to posting to the list, but have had my Rhodes 2018, a > 2002 recycled by Stan in 2018. I've been lurking since and appreciate all > the knowledge and experience on the list. I am in the process of relocating > from Annapolis, MD to Lake Medina, outside of San Antonio, TX. I have a > 1978 single axle triad trailer without brakes. This works for my twice > yearly launch and recovery, but I don't trust it for the 1,700 mile trip to > Texas. I got one quote from Coast to Coast Marine Transport out of Midland, > NC based on some feedback from my marina. Was hoping someone might be able > to recommend a boat transport company.Thanks,Eds/v GooberNugget > Edward W. Stewart > edwardstewart at verizon.net > From dleddy at twc.com Thu Apr 2 09:36:38 2020 From: dleddy at twc.com (David Leddy) Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2020 06:36:38 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Out Haul Car In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1585834598582-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Charles, While researching the same problem I found this photo of the current part posted earlier on this forum. I am going to try a sail slide (or slug) that was recommended as a replacement for other loose footed sails, in conjunction with a single block to use with the outhaul, and then just a line to connect it to the clew. The slug looks a bit on the small side (to me) but I did not find any larger one in my search, hoping it will take the load. Probably won't get to test it for several weeks now being shut in and all. David Leddy -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From melrothbard at yahoo.com Thu Apr 2 10:41:28 2020 From: melrothbard at yahoo.com (Melvyn Rothbard) Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2020 14:41:28 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Boat Moving Companies In-Reply-To: References: <354060546.538937.1585794298194.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <354060546.538937.1585794298194@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1093622146.981983.1585838488336@mail.yahoo.com> Hi Edward:I can certifiably vouch for Richard.? He hauled my boat back from Edenton to LBI last year and did a great job. Mel Melvyn H. Rothbard Attorney at Law Suite 3C 23 South 23rd Street Philadelphia, PA 19103 215 901 2258 Fax: 215 656 0993 melrothbard at yahoo.com CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE The information and/or documents included in or accompanying this transmission contain(s) confidential information belonging to the sender which is legally privileged. The information is intended only for the use of the individual or entity to whom it was sent as indicated above. If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any disclosure, copying, distribution or taking of any action in reliance on the contents of this transmission is strictly prohibited. If you have received this e mail in error, please delete this message and immediately notify us by replying to this e mail or telephoning us at 215 901 2258. On Thursday, April 2, 2020, 09:28:33 AM EDT, Richard Beytagh wrote: Hi Edward I can do this haul for you. I have a twin axle trailer that I use for my Rhodes and have done quite a few deliveries with this, including 2 epic trips from Edenton NC to Seattle WA and back. My fees are $2:00 per loaded mile and 20c per mile for use of the trailer. Estimate $2.20 at 1700 miles $3740. This would be billed at actual miles at the end of the journey and any tolls or other road taxes would be added at actual. I have a F250 Super Duty truck and I include haul-out, secure for journey and relaunch if needed. Timing is dependent on the status of the Coronavirus lock-down. All the best ~~~ _/) ~~~ Richard Beytagh Phone: 828 337 0180 On Wed, Apr 1, 2020 at 10:25 PM Edward Stewart via Rhodes22-list < rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote: > Hello All,I'm new to posting to the list, but have had my Rhodes 2018, a > 2002 recycled by Stan in 2018. I've been lurking since and appreciate all > the knowledge and experience on the list. I am in the process of relocating > from Annapolis, MD to Lake Medina, outside of San Antonio, TX. I have a > 1978 single axle triad trailer without brakes. This works for my twice > yearly launch and recovery, but I don't trust it for the 1,700 mile trip to > Texas. I got one quote from Coast to Coast Marine Transport out of Midland, > NC based on some feedback from my marina. Was hoping someone might be able > to recommend a boat transport company.Thanks,Eds/v GooberNugget > Edward W. Stewart > edwardstewart at verizon.net > From retiredtoby at gmail.com Thu Apr 2 12:46:58 2020 From: retiredtoby at gmail.com (Cary Tolbert) Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2020 12:46:58 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Not a Boat Question Message-ID: Last season I had my Triad Trailer upgraded with s/s disk drakes. When you use the quick disconnect in order to use the extension it leaks a little brake fluid. I noticed the paint and primer had dissolved in the area of the leaked fluid. I realize now that I should have cleaned this area. Water under the bridge. So my question is, are there any recommendations on TYPE of primer and paint to use that is not sensitive to brake fluids properties? DOT3 Surely some member of the list has experience with this or something similar. I know if I had a galvanized trailer this would not be a problem. But the trailer is an 86 as is my Rhodes and was painted and repainted ,I'm sure, black. Let me hear from you Rhodies. Thanks Cary Tolbert S/V Whisper 86 From jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com Thu Apr 2 16:49:49 2020 From: jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com (JeffSmith) Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2020 13:49:49 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Is the R22 noisy at anchor? Message-ID: <1585860589866-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Due to the virus lock down, I'm spending plenty of time making the new boat my own. Re compounding and waxing, installing a boom vang (thanks greatly to the forum for great ideas on how to accomplish that!), etc. The boat is now in my driveway on the great dual axle Triad trailer with the mast up. As I walk around the boat and when the wind blows it seems there is a lot of noise from the mast and maybe elsewhere. The first night I spent on my past boat (a J/30) the noise of the wires slapping in the mast drove me nuts and kept us both awake. So the next day I pulled the masthead wires and attached 18" cable ties every couple of feet or so and pulled the wires back up the mast. Problem solved for the next 8 years. Is the mast noisy at anchor on anyone else's boat? How about center board noise? We plan to spend time on the anchor or at a mooring - so if there are noise problems and solutions that can be addressed in advance I would love to hear - while I have the time to fix them. -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From keywestseccorp at verizon.net Thu Apr 2 17:17:53 2020 From: keywestseccorp at verizon.net (Mark West) Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2020 21:17:53 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Is the R22 noisy at anchor? In-Reply-To: <1585860589866-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1585860589866-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <232184538.838408.1585862273429@mail.yahoo.com> yes mine was wires ringing mast same fix you used? worked. that is the only noise I had? -----Original Message----- From: JeffSmith To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Sent: Thu, Apr 2, 2020 4:49 pm Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Is the R22 noisy at anchor? Due to the virus lock down, I'm spending plenty of time making the new boat my own. Re compounding and waxing, installing a boom vang (thanks greatly to the forum for great ideas on how to accomplish that!), etc. The boat is now in my driveway on the great dual axle Triad trailer with the mast up.? As I walk around the boat and when the wind blows it seems there is a lot of noise from the mast and maybe elsewhere. The first night I spent on my past boat (a J/30) the noise of the wires slapping in the mast drove me nuts and kept us both awake. So the next day I pulled the masthead wires and attached 18" cable ties every couple of feet or so and pulled the wires back up the mast.? Problem solved for the next 8 years. Is the mast noisy at anchor on anyone else's boat? How about center board noise? We plan to spend time on the anchor or at a mooring - so if there are noise problems and solutions that can be addressed in advance I would love to hear - while I have the time to fix them. -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From eandsmoore at hughes.net Thu Apr 2 18:02:40 2020 From: eandsmoore at hughes.net (Ellyn and Sam Moore) Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2020 18:02:40 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Not a Boat Question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <5C64E3BB-E6AD-4370-88CA-8BAA0FBFDBBE@hughes.net> DOT5, silicone brake fluid does not eat paint. Systems on autos change over to DOT5 easily, you just have to flush completely. I bet your trailer brakes would change over as well. DOT5 is superior in several ways. Sam Moore, ?77 Rhodes Continental, Rhodester > On Apr 2, 2020, at 12:46 PM, Cary Tolbert wrote: > > Last season I had my Triad Trailer upgraded with s/s disk drakes. > When you use the quick disconnect in order to use the extension it leaks a > little brake fluid. I noticed the paint and primer had dissolved in the > area of the leaked fluid. I realize now that I should have cleaned this > area. Water under the bridge. > So my question is, are there any recommendations on TYPE of primer and paint > to use that is not sensitive to brake fluids properties? DOT3 > Surely some member of the list has experience with this or something > similar. > I know if I had a galvanized trailer this would not be a problem. But the > trailer is an 86 as is my Rhodes and was painted and repainted ,I'm sure, > black. > Let me hear from you Rhodies. > Thanks > Cary Tolbert > S/V Whisper 86 From jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com Thu Apr 2 18:07:35 2020 From: jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com (JeffSmith) Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2020 15:07:35 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Is the R22 noisy at anchor? In-Reply-To: <232184538.838408.1585862273429@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1585860589866-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <232184538.838408.1585862273429@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1585865255613-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Tkank you! -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From stan at generalboats.com Thu Apr 2 18:20:18 2020 From: stan at generalboats.com (stan) Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2020 18:20:18 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Out Haul Car In-Reply-To: <40f93bf3-483c-f8da-b62f-9d45f07977ef@generalboats.com> References: <40f93bf3-483c-f8da-b62f-9d45f07977ef@generalboats.com> Message-ID: > > With the computer the only socially acceptable game in town, I will > tackle the outhaul car issue today (tied up with computer business > yesterday). > > Over its approximately 40 year run there have been 3 versions of the > outhaul car.? The first (as in Charles photo) was a stock hardware > part we found in a marine catalog where it was featured for some other > use.? We thought it cool that it was stainless steel. But true, > stainless and aluminum for this use, friends they were not; there was > a lot of friction between them.? Happy ending, that stock part did not > allow for the best of designs. Sitting on the port swivel seat year > after year at the Annapolis show, studying the outhaul car system the > big in-the-water Catalinas were using, I suddenly realized our mutual > flaw.? For good reason we could not hard connect the clew of the sail > to the car. As the sail went in or out of the mast, all designs had to > allow for the clew to change its distance above the boom. The outhaul > car line had to be made so it could automatically adjust for the > varing distance of the clew from the car.? With a system to do this, > went along the fact that to set a draft in the sail, the sail would > have enough freedom from its car to be functioning as a sail in a > different plane than its boom.? This, of course, degraded the > effectiveness of the traveler. In our proprietary manner we decided to look at the mainsail, outhaul car and traveler, as a collective assembly.? In that process the 2nd version of the outhaul care emerged. And it worked in principle.? But over the years its physical design flaws started showing up. So, the recent entry of Rhodes outhaul car the third.? It is so well constructed, it comes with a lifetime guarantee (mine).?? There is a review from a Rhodie who has one, that you can read. It is on the bottom of the Newsy Stuff page on the? www.rhodes22parts.com ? web site.?? Sorry, no photos yet.? We will post one ASAP or a List user may post one sooner.? For DIY owners I want to post that making a copy for your own boat is good with us.? Just as we feel that you would have no objections to our incorporating your improvements for the benefit of other Rhodes owners.? What we can't afford to live with are others, commercializing our time and capital, freely, taking away the return of our R&D investments, needed for other in the wings projects. Like the good folk from Lake Wobegon, Rhodes owners are above average.? Eventually all owners will be part of the Rhodes Owners Cooperative as they come to know it not as a cost but rather an investment in continuing newly won benefits that markedly outpace ROC's one time, life time membership fee.? What confuses me is why, like the the small segment of this country's electorate that steadfastly vote for leaders putting through policies that clearly are anti said voters self interests, are there bright Rhodies who allow their emotional reaction to changes in a market, override their good judgment of what is in their best interest.? To that end I ask that those who still have any reservations of what we are laying out, to revisit: http://www.usedrhodes.com/owners-coop.html and the boxed copy section of http://www.rhodes22parts.com/home.html As always, I am willing to listen to, and to respond to, anyone's comments and questioning re General Boats sustaining policy shifts. All I ask is that as the oldest, fully engaged, guardian of the longest running, small sailboat company, I be given a tiny bit of credence for knowing this market better than most anyone else. PS:? The next web site's amazing benefits to *both* Rhodes Buyers and Rhodes Sellers, would be up and running now, had I the shoulder to shoulder partnering that I still need.? With a little bit of encouragement I will lay out the details of this uniquely different, common purpose endeavor, in a future email. stan > > > On 3/31/20 9:09 PM, Charles Nieman wrote: >> Since I don?t have a CoS, I can?t buy a replacement out haul car from GB (at any price, if I understand all that has been posted). >> >> The attached photo shows a very old car, mostly stainless steel if I?m not mistaken. While this is obviously very durable, the metal seemed to not slid very well in the boom. A few years ago, I made the car at the bottom out of (I think) nylon. This worked very well until last week. As I was bringing in the sail, the bottom portion split off. >> >> While I can bring back the old car for use. And I can fabricate another car like the nylon one. I?m wondering what the current design of out haul car is. Can anyone share what design they have on their boat, please? >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> Charles Nieman >> S/V Daydream >> 98 R 22 >> > From retiredtoby at gmail.com Fri Apr 3 17:19:06 2020 From: retiredtoby at gmail.com (Cary Tolbert) Date: Fri, 3 Apr 2020 17:19:06 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Not a Boat Question In-Reply-To: <5C64E3BB-E6AD-4370-88CA-8BAA0FBFDBBE@hughes.net> References: <5C64E3BB-E6AD-4370-88CA-8BAA0FBFDBBE@hughes.net> Message-ID: Well Sam, I found this about boat trailers. From the people that made my brake system. Sounds good but not made for all systems. Thanks for the input. On Thu, Apr 2, 2020 at 6:02 PM Ellyn and Sam Moore wrote: > DOT5, silicone brake fluid does not eat paint. Systems on autos change > over to DOT5 easily, you just have to > flush completely. I bet your trailer brakes would change over as well. > DOT5 is superior in several ways. > Sam Moore, ?77 Rhodes Continental, Rhodester > > > > On Apr 2, 2020, at 12:46 PM, Cary Tolbert wrote: > > > > Last season I had my Triad Trailer upgraded with s/s disk drakes. > > When you use the quick disconnect in order to use the extension it leaks > a > > little brake fluid. I noticed the paint and primer had dissolved in the > > area of the leaked fluid. I realize now that I should have cleaned this > > area. Water under the bridge. > > So my question is, are there any recommendations on TYPE of primer and > paint > > to use that is not sensitive to brake fluids properties? DOT3 > > Surely some member of the list has experience with this or something > > similar. > > I know if I had a galvanized trailer this would not be a problem. But the > > trailer is an 86 as is my Rhodes and was painted and repainted ,I'm sure, > > black. > > Let me hear from you Rhodies. > > Thanks > > Cary Tolbert > > S/V Whisper 86 > > -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: BRAKEFLUIDdot5.pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 223050 bytes Desc: not available URL: From eandsmoore at hughes.net Fri Apr 3 18:27:09 2020 From: eandsmoore at hughes.net (Ellyn and Sam Moore) Date: Fri, 3 Apr 2020 18:27:09 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Not a Boat Question In-Reply-To: References: <5C64E3BB-E6AD-4370-88CA-8BAA0FBFDBBE@hughes.net> Message-ID: Very interesting, good research Cary. Sam Moore > On Apr 3, 2020, at 5:19 PM, Cary Tolbert wrote: > > Well Sam, I found this about boat trailers. From the people that made my > brake system. Sounds good but not made for all systems. > Thanks for the input. > > > On Thu, Apr 2, 2020 at 6:02 PM Ellyn and Sam Moore > wrote: > >> DOT5, silicone brake fluid does not eat paint. Systems on autos change >> over to DOT5 easily, you just have to >> flush completely. I bet your trailer brakes would change over as well. >> DOT5 is superior in several ways. >> Sam Moore, ?77 Rhodes Continental, Rhodester >> >> >>> On Apr 2, 2020, at 12:46 PM, Cary Tolbert wrote: >>> >>> Last season I had my Triad Trailer upgraded with s/s disk drakes. >>> When you use the quick disconnect in order to use the extension it leaks >> a >>> little brake fluid. I noticed the paint and primer had dissolved in the >>> area of the leaked fluid. I realize now that I should have cleaned this >>> area. Water under the bridge. >>> So my question is, are there any recommendations on TYPE of primer and >> paint >>> to use that is not sensitive to brake fluids properties? DOT3 >>> Surely some member of the list has experience with this or something >>> similar. >>> I know if I had a galvanized trailer this would not be a problem. But the >>> trailer is an 86 as is my Rhodes and was painted and repainted ,I'm sure, >>> black. >>> Let me hear from you Rhodies. >>> Thanks >>> Cary Tolbert >>> S/V Whisper 86 >> >> > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: BRAKEFLUIDdot5.pdf > Type: application/pdf > Size: 223050 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: From retiredtoby at gmail.com Sun Apr 5 21:11:10 2020 From: retiredtoby at gmail.com (Cary Tolbert) Date: Sun, 5 Apr 2020 21:11:10 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] IMF anchor light installation Message-ID: Has anyone installed an anchor light on an Inter Furling Mast. I checked the top plate on the mast and found it to be attached with three rivets. Can you remove the plate and how would you replace the top plate? If you have successfully accomplished this task also advise what difficulty is involved in running the wire through the mast. 26 feet is a long way to push wiring. I am amazed that this would not be standard equipment on the Rhodes 22. This boat is marketed as a small day sailor suitable for overnight cruising. Just my thought. Any help with this problem will be greatly appreciated. Thanks! Cary Tolbert S/V Whisper '86 From gramille at tds.net Mon Apr 6 09:33:46 2020 From: gramille at tds.net (gramille) Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2020 06:33:46 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Is the R22 noisy at anchor? In-Reply-To: <1585860589866-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1585860589866-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <1586180026956-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Hi Jeff, Could you send details of your boom vang installation? I feel a need for one but the pop top poses an interesting challenge ! Cheers Graham -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From peter at sunnybeeches.com Mon Apr 6 09:47:44 2020 From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg) Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2020 09:47:44 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] IMF anchor light installation In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <62090A2A-CB27-481E-9D1C-563EA2740FC6@sunnybeeches.com> Cory, The top plate on my IMF mast is held on by a couple of screws. I plan on taking the cover off my boat today or tomorrow, and I?ll try to take a picture of my top plate. When I got my boat, it had wires running up the mast for a steaming light and the VHF antenna. When I replaced one, I used the existing wire to pull the new wire through. If you currently have no wires, I?m not sure what the best way to get started would be. I doubt that you could just push a wire through, but I could be wrong, so it would be worth a try. The only other thought that comes to mind would be a weight tied to a string started into the channel at the top of the mast, and then raise the mast and let gravity do the work. My only other advise would be to run a wire with three conductors, so that you could potentially power both a steaming light and an anchor light. Peter Nyberg Coventry, CT s/v Silverheels (1988/2016) > On Apr 5, 2020, at 9:11 PM, Cary Tolbert wrote: > > Has anyone installed an anchor light on an Inter Furling Mast. I checked > the top plate on the mast and found it to be attached with three rivets. > Can you remove the plate and how would you replace the top plate? If you > have successfully accomplished this task also advise what difficulty is > involved in running the wire through the mast. 26 feet is a long way to > push wiring. > I am amazed that this would not be standard equipment on the Rhodes 22. > This boat is marketed as a small day sailor suitable for overnight cruising. > Just my thought. > Any help with this problem will be greatly appreciated. > Thanks! > Cary Tolbert > S/V Whisper '86 From snstaum at gmail.com Mon Apr 6 09:58:41 2020 From: snstaum at gmail.com (Stephen Staum) Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2020 09:58:41 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Is the R22 noisy at anchor? In-Reply-To: <1585860589866-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1585860589866-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: Jeff, The only noise I get at anchor is a humming noise from the boom if the mainsheet is very taught. I loosening of the mainsheet tension kills the noise. *Stephen Staum* *s/v Carol Lee 2* *Needham, MA* On Thu, Apr 2, 2020 at 4:49 PM JeffSmith wrote: > Due to the virus lock down, I'm spending plenty of time making the new boat > my own. Re compounding and waxing, installing a boom vang (thanks greatly > to > the forum for great ideas on how to accomplish that!), etc. The boat is now > in my driveway on the great dual axle Triad trailer with the mast up. As I > walk around the boat and when the wind blows it seems there is a lot of > noise from the mast and maybe elsewhere. > The first night I spent on my past boat (a J/30) the noise of the wires > slapping in the mast drove me nuts and kept us both awake. So the next day > I > pulled the masthead wires and attached 18" cable ties every couple of feet > or so and pulled the wires back up the mast. Problem solved for the next 8 > years. > Is the mast noisy at anchor on anyone else's boat? > How about center board noise? > We plan to spend time on the anchor or at a mooring - so if there are noise > problems and solutions that can be addressed in advance I would love to > hear > - while I have the time to fix them. > > > > > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > From ric at stottarchitecture.com Mon Apr 6 09:59:28 2020 From: ric at stottarchitecture.com (Ric Stott) Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2020 09:59:28 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Is the R22 noisy at anchor? In-Reply-To: <1586180026956-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1585860589866-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1586180026956-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: There is no solution to use a Boom-Vang with the Pop Top in the raised position. It must be down in order to use the Vang. Ric sv Dadventure Hampton Bays Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP www.stottarchitecture.com Office 631-283-1777 Cell 516-965-3164 > On Apr 6, 2020, at 9:33 AM, gramille wrote: > > Hi Jeff, > Could you send details of your boom vang installation? > I feel a need for one but the pop top poses an interesting challenge ! > Cheers > Graham > > > > > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From retiredtoby at gmail.com Mon Apr 6 09:59:44 2020 From: retiredtoby at gmail.com (Cary Tolbert) Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2020 09:59:44 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] IMF anchor light installation In-Reply-To: <62090A2A-CB27-481E-9D1C-563EA2740FC6@sunnybeeches.com> References: <62090A2A-CB27-481E-9D1C-563EA2740FC6@sunnybeeches.com> Message-ID: Thanks Peter, I will wait for your photos. Love your videos. Is there an interesting story behind the name of your boat? Cary S/V Whisper '86 On Mon, Apr 6, 2020 at 9:48 AM Peter Nyberg wrote: > Cory, > > The top plate on my IMF mast is held on by a couple of screws. I plan on > taking the cover off my boat today or tomorrow, and I?ll try to take a > picture of my top plate. > > When I got my boat, it had wires running up the mast for a steaming light > and the VHF antenna. When I replaced one, I used the existing wire to pull > the new wire through. If you currently have no wires, I?m not sure what > the best way to get started would be. I doubt that you could just push a > wire through, but I could be wrong, so it would be worth a try. The only > other thought that comes to mind would be a weight tied to a string started > into the channel at the top of the mast, and then raise the mast and let > gravity do the work. > > My only other advise would be to run a wire with three conductors, so that > you could potentially power both a steaming light and an anchor light. > > Peter Nyberg > Coventry, CT > s/v Silverheels (1988/2016) > > > On Apr 5, 2020, at 9:11 PM, Cary Tolbert wrote: > > > > Has anyone installed an anchor light on an Inter Furling Mast. I checked > > the top plate on the mast and found it to be attached with three rivets. > > Can you remove the plate and how would you replace the top plate? If you > > have successfully accomplished this task also advise what difficulty is > > involved in running the wire through the mast. 26 feet is a long way to > > push wiring. > > I am amazed that this would not be standard equipment on the Rhodes 22. > > This boat is marketed as a small day sailor suitable for overnight > cruising. > > Just my thought. > > Any help with this problem will be greatly appreciated. > > Thanks! > > Cary Tolbert > > S/V Whisper '86 > > From snstaum at gmail.com Mon Apr 6 10:02:28 2020 From: snstaum at gmail.com (Stephen Staum) Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2020 10:02:28 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] IMF anchor light installation In-Reply-To: <62090A2A-CB27-481E-9D1C-563EA2740FC6@sunnybeeches.com> References: <62090A2A-CB27-481E-9D1C-563EA2740FC6@sunnybeeches.com> Message-ID: If you look in the archives I think someone detailed how to wire both lights with a 3 wire connection. The wires run in a separate chamber in the IMF mast so a stiff wire should allow you to pull your anchor light wire through the length of the mast. *Stephen Staum* *s/v Carol Lee 2* *Needham, MA* On Mon, Apr 6, 2020 at 9:48 AM Peter Nyberg wrote: > Cory, > > The top plate on my IMF mast is held on by a couple of screws. I plan on > taking the cover off my boat today or tomorrow, and I?ll try to take a > picture of my top plate. > > When I got my boat, it had wires running up the mast for a steaming light > and the VHF antenna. When I replaced one, I used the existing wire to pull > the new wire through. If you currently have no wires, I?m not sure what > the best way to get started would be. I doubt that you could just push a > wire through, but I could be wrong, so it would be worth a try. The only > other thought that comes to mind would be a weight tied to a string started > into the channel at the top of the mast, and then raise the mast and let > gravity do the work. > > My only other advise would be to run a wire with three conductors, so that > you could potentially power both a steaming light and an anchor light. > > Peter Nyberg > Coventry, CT > s/v Silverheels (1988/2016) > > > On Apr 5, 2020, at 9:11 PM, Cary Tolbert wrote: > > > > Has anyone installed an anchor light on an Inter Furling Mast. I checked > > the top plate on the mast and found it to be attached with three rivets. > > Can you remove the plate and how would you replace the top plate? If you > > have successfully accomplished this task also advise what difficulty is > > involved in running the wire through the mast. 26 feet is a long way to > > push wiring. > > I am amazed that this would not be standard equipment on the Rhodes 22. > > This boat is marketed as a small day sailor suitable for overnight > cruising. > > Just my thought. > > Any help with this problem will be greatly appreciated. > > Thanks! > > Cary Tolbert > > S/V Whisper '86 > > From rlowe at vt.edu Mon Apr 6 10:07:15 2020 From: rlowe at vt.edu (Lowe, Rob) Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2020 14:07:15 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] IMF anchor light installation In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Cary, I believe the mast cap is through bolted on. I was able to remove mine when I replaced the wiring. I used an electricians fish tape that I was able to run the length of the mast to pull the wiring through. I?ve got one if you want to borrow it. - rob ________________________________ From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of Cary Tolbert Sent: Sunday, April 5, 2020 9:11:10 PM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: [Rhodes22-list] IMF anchor light installation Has anyone installed an anchor light on an Inter Furling Mast. I checked the top plate on the mast and found it to be attached with three rivets. Can you remove the plate and how would you replace the top plate? If you have successfully accomplished this task also advise what difficulty is involved in running the wire through the mast. 26 feet is a long way to push wiring. I am amazed that this would not be standard equipment on the Rhodes 22. This boat is marketed as a small day sailor suitable for overnight cruising. Just my thought. Any help with this problem will be greatly appreciated. Thanks! Cary Tolbert S/V Whisper '86 From mtroy at atlanticbb.net Mon Apr 6 10:10:02 2020 From: mtroy at atlanticbb.net (Mary Lou Troy) Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2020 10:10:02 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] IMF anchor light installation In-Reply-To: <62090A2A-CB27-481E-9D1C-563EA2740FC6@sunnybeeches.com> References: <62090A2A-CB27-481E-9D1C-563EA2740FC6@sunnybeeches.com> Message-ID: We did this. The plate was easily removable - ours had screws. We had three wires in the mast. Used one for steaming, one for anchor and used a common ground. Fred says his recollection (we have since sold the boat ) is that he used a a 4 prong connector at the base to accommodate the switches and in case we ever wanted to run another wire. If you have the mast down it's not hard to get to the wiring. We did it when we installed cable ties so the wiring didn't bang against the sides of the channel and when we ran the wire for our VHF antenna. I've attached a photo of the masthead. The tang on the back? was so we put our Windex or Spar-fly there. Mary Lou ex Rhodes 22 now Rosborough RF-246 Rock Hall, MD On 4/6/2020 9:47 AM, Peter Nyberg wrote: > Cory, > > The top plate on my IMF mast is held on by a couple of screws. I plan on taking the cover off my boat today or tomorrow, and I?ll try to take a picture of my top plate. > > When I got my boat, it had wires running up the mast for a steaming light and the VHF antenna. When I replaced one, I used the existing wire to pull the new wire through. If you currently have no wires, I?m not sure what the best way to get started would be. I doubt that you could just push a wire through, but I could be wrong, so it would be worth a try. The only other thought that comes to mind would be a weight tied to a string started into the channel at the top of the mast, and then raise the mast and let gravity do the work. > > My only other advise would be to run a wire with three conductors, so that you could potentially power both a steaming light and an anchor light. > > Peter Nyberg > Coventry, CT > s/v Silverheels (1988/2016) > >> On Apr 5, 2020, at 9:11 PM, Cary Tolbert wrote: >> >> Has anyone installed an anchor light on an Inter Furling Mast. I checked >> the top plate on the mast and found it to be attached with three rivets. >> Can you remove the plate and how would you replace the top plate? If you >> have successfully accomplished this task also advise what difficulty is >> involved in running the wire through the mast. 26 feet is a long way to >> push wiring. >> I am amazed that this would not be standard equipment on the Rhodes 22. >> This boat is marketed as a small day sailor suitable for overnight cruising. >> Just my thought. >> Any help with this problem will be greatly appreciated. >> Thanks! >> Cary Tolbert >> S/V Whisper '86 -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: masthead200803sm.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 138338 bytes Desc: not available URL: From retiredtoby at gmail.com Mon Apr 6 10:20:54 2020 From: retiredtoby at gmail.com (Cary Tolbert) Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2020 10:20:54 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] IMF anchor light installation In-Reply-To: References: <62090A2A-CB27-481E-9D1C-563EA2740FC6@sunnybeeches.com> Message-ID: Stephen, I do recall the three wire discussion on the list. It seems my most difficult part may be removing the top plate with the rivets. If I am successful in removing the top plate how do I get it attached back on the mast. To me rivets say, I am intended to be permanently attached and NO ACCESS HERE. Is there a way to remove the top plate and the real question I guess is,how would it be re attached? Cary Tolbert S/V Whisper '86 On Mon, Apr 6, 2020 at 10:02 AM Stephen Staum wrote: > If you look in the archives I think someone detailed how to wire both > lights with a 3 wire connection. The wires run in a separate chamber in > the IMF mast so a stiff wire should allow you to pull your anchor light > wire through the length of the mast. > > > *Stephen Staum* > *s/v Carol Lee 2* > > *Needham, MA* > > > On Mon, Apr 6, 2020 at 9:48 AM Peter Nyberg > wrote: > > > Cory, > > > > The top plate on my IMF mast is held on by a couple of screws. I plan on > > taking the cover off my boat today or tomorrow, and I?ll try to take a > > picture of my top plate. > > > > When I got my boat, it had wires running up the mast for a steaming light > > and the VHF antenna. When I replaced one, I used the existing wire to > pull > > the new wire through. If you currently have no wires, I?m not sure what > > the best way to get started would be. I doubt that you could just push a > > wire through, but I could be wrong, so it would be worth a try. The only > > other thought that comes to mind would be a weight tied to a string > started > > into the channel at the top of the mast, and then raise the mast and let > > gravity do the work. > > > > My only other advise would be to run a wire with three conductors, so > that > > you could potentially power both a steaming light and an anchor light. > > > > Peter Nyberg > > Coventry, CT > > s/v Silverheels (1988/2016) > > > > > On Apr 5, 2020, at 9:11 PM, Cary Tolbert > wrote: > > > > > > Has anyone installed an anchor light on an Inter Furling Mast. I > checked > > > the top plate on the mast and found it to be attached with three > rivets. > > > Can you remove the plate and how would you replace the top plate? If > you > > > have successfully accomplished this task also advise what difficulty is > > > involved in running the wire through the mast. 26 feet is a long way to > > > push wiring. > > > I am amazed that this would not be standard equipment on the Rhodes 22. > > > This boat is marketed as a small day sailor suitable for overnight > > cruising. > > > Just my thought. > > > Any help with this problem will be greatly appreciated. > > > Thanks! > > > Cary Tolbert > > > S/V Whisper '86 > > > > > From rbeytagh at gmail.com Mon Apr 6 10:24:29 2020 From: rbeytagh at gmail.com (Richard Beytagh) Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2020 10:24:29 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Is the R22 noisy at anchor? In-Reply-To: References: <1585860589866-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1586180026956-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: There is a solution for a Vang on the R22. I have not used this yet as it's a little expensive, but I am sure it would work fine on the Rhodes 22. Several manufacturers (Selden and Harken) provide what is known as Gnav system. Look it up. ~~~ _/) ~~~ Richard Beytagh Phone: 828 337 0180 On Mon, Apr 6, 2020 at 9:59 AM Ric Stott wrote: > There is no solution to use a Boom-Vang with the Pop Top in the raised > position. > It must be down in order to use the Vang. > Ric > sv Dadventure > Hampton Bays > > Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP > www.stottarchitecture.com > Office 631-283-1777 > Cell 516-965-3164 > > > > > > > On Apr 6, 2020, at 9:33 AM, gramille wrote: > > > > Hi Jeff, > > Could you send details of your boom vang installation? > > I feel a need for one but the pop top poses an interesting challenge ! > > Cheers > > Graham > > > > > > > > > > -- > > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > > From jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com Mon Apr 6 11:22:25 2020 From: jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com (Jesse Shumaker) Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2020 08:22:25 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] IMF anchor light installation In-Reply-To: References: <62090A2A-CB27-481E-9D1C-563EA2740FC6@sunnybeeches.com> Message-ID: <1586186545771-0.post@n5.nabble.com> I removed the top plate on my IMF mast this winter to replace the anchor light. It was just held on with screws. Some discussion and photos of the anchor light replacement is at: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/masthead-light-steaming-vs-all-around-tt56167.html#a56483 Here's another photo from the top before I replaced the light. For running wires for the first time, you could use a Fish Tape: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-50-ft-x-1-8-in-Steel-Fish-Tape-48-22-4172/308328935?MERCH=REC-_-pipsem-_-203480881-_-308328935-_-N Good luck! -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com Mon Apr 6 11:28:22 2020 From: jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com (Jesse Shumaker) Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2020 08:28:22 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Is the R22 noisy at anchor? In-Reply-To: References: <1585860589866-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1586180026956-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <1586186902878-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Here's a simple low cost solution I used when adding a vang to my R22: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/Vang-bail-tc55728.html#a55745 I only use it with the pop top down. The snap shackles make it easy to remove. -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From retiredtoby at gmail.com Mon Apr 6 11:47:35 2020 From: retiredtoby at gmail.com (Cary Tolbert) Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2020 11:47:35 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] IMF anchor light installation In-Reply-To: <1586186545771-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <62090A2A-CB27-481E-9D1C-563EA2740FC6@sunnybeeches.com> <1586186545771-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: Thanks Jesse, good picture. Does the top plate not have to be remover? Can I just remove the through bolt and remove everything in one piece? After study, preparation,and skill I will always take LUCK without embarrassment. Cary On Mon, Apr 6, 2020 at 11:22 AM Jesse Shumaker < jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com> wrote: > I removed the top plate on my IMF mast this winter to replace the anchor > light. It was just held on with screws. Some discussion and photos of the > anchor light replacement is at: > > http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/masthead-light-steaming-vs-all-around-tt56167.html#a56483 > > Here's another photo from the top before I replaced the light. > > > For running wires for the first time, you could use a Fish Tape: > > https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-50-ft-x-1-8-in-Steel-Fish-Tape-48-22-4172/308328935?MERCH=REC-_-pipsem-_-203480881-_-308328935-_-N > > Good luck! > > > > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > From jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com Mon Apr 6 12:03:12 2020 From: jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com (Jesse Shumaker) Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2020 09:03:12 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] IMF anchor light installation In-Reply-To: References: <62090A2A-CB27-481E-9D1C-563EA2740FC6@sunnybeeches.com> <1586186545771-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <1586188992957-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Hi Cary, if you're adding an anchor light then I think you're going to need to take off the plate in order to get to the wires and bolt in your mast head light from underneath. I found another photo with the plate off. This was before troubleshooting so the wires are not necessarily connected correctly in this photo. My mast had 3 wires (to handle 2 hot and 1 ground), but only 1 of the hot was active. Some day I may go back and add a switch so that I could control the front and back of my mast head light separately in order to make it serve as both steaming and anchor light. Right now, it's configured as an anchor light. I recommend testing with a multimeter before sealing everything up. Hope that helps... -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From sloopblueheron at gmail.com Mon Apr 6 12:10:48 2020 From: sloopblueheron at gmail.com (Rick Lange) Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2020 12:10:48 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Is the R22 noisy at anchor? In-Reply-To: <1586186902878-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1585860589866-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1586180026956-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1586186902878-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: There's no point to a boom vang on an IMF mast. The mast can't bend and the mainsail isn't footed. Regards, Rick Lange On Mon, Apr 6, 2020 at 11:28 AM Jesse Shumaker < jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com> wrote: > Here's a simple low cost solution I used when adding a vang to my R22: > http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/Vang-bail-tc55728.html#a55745 > > I only use it with the pop top down. The snap shackles make it easy to > remove. > > > > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > From snstaum at gmail.com Mon Apr 6 14:12:41 2020 From: snstaum at gmail.com (Stephen Staum) Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2020 14:12:41 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] IMF anchor light installation In-Reply-To: References: <62090A2A-CB27-481E-9D1C-563EA2740FC6@sunnybeeches.com> Message-ID: How about drilling a hole in the forward side if the top plate, run the wire through the hole, wire the light & mount it right over the hole? Since you need to run the wire through anyway, I don?t see any need to remove the top plate. *Stephen Staum* *s/v Carol Lee 2* *Needham, MA* On Mon, Apr 6, 2020 at 10:21 AM Cary Tolbert wrote: > Stephen, I do recall the three wire discussion on the list. It seems my > most difficult part may be removing the top plate with the rivets. > If I am successful in removing the top plate how do I get it attached back > on the mast. To me rivets say, I am intended to be permanently attached and > NO ACCESS HERE. Is there a way to remove the top plate and the real > question I guess is,how would it be re attached? > Cary Tolbert > S/V Whisper '86 > > > On Mon, Apr 6, 2020 at 10:02 AM Stephen Staum wrote: > > > If you look in the archives I think someone detailed how to wire both > > lights with a 3 wire connection. The wires run in a separate chamber in > > the IMF mast so a stiff wire should allow you to pull your anchor light > > wire through the length of the mast. > > > > > > *Stephen Staum* > > *s/v Carol Lee 2* > > > > *Needham, MA* > > > > > > On Mon, Apr 6, 2020 at 9:48 AM Peter Nyberg > > wrote: > > > > > Cory, > > > > > > The top plate on my IMF mast is held on by a couple of screws. I plan > on > > > taking the cover off my boat today or tomorrow, and I?ll try to take a > > > picture of my top plate. > > > > > > When I got my boat, it had wires running up the mast for a steaming > light > > > and the VHF antenna. When I replaced one, I used the existing wire to > > pull > > > the new wire through. If you currently have no wires, I?m not sure > what > > > the best way to get started would be. I doubt that you could just > push a > > > wire through, but I could be wrong, so it would be worth a try. The > only > > > other thought that comes to mind would be a weight tied to a string > > started > > > into the channel at the top of the mast, and then raise the mast and > let > > > gravity do the work. > > > > > > My only other advise would be to run a wire with three conductors, so > > that > > > you could potentially power both a steaming light and an anchor light. > > > > > > Peter Nyberg > > > Coventry, CT > > > s/v Silverheels (1988/2016) > > > > > > > On Apr 5, 2020, at 9:11 PM, Cary Tolbert > > wrote: > > > > > > > > Has anyone installed an anchor light on an Inter Furling Mast. I > > checked > > > > the top plate on the mast and found it to be attached with three > > rivets. > > > > Can you remove the plate and how would you replace the top plate? If > > you > > > > have successfully accomplished this task also advise what difficulty > is > > > > involved in running the wire through the mast. 26 feet is a long way > to > > > > push wiring. > > > > I am amazed that this would not be standard equipment on the Rhodes > 22. > > > > This boat is marketed as a small day sailor suitable for overnight > > > cruising. > > > > Just my thought. > > > > Any help with this problem will be greatly appreciated. > > > > Thanks! > > > > Cary Tolbert > > > > S/V Whisper '86 > > > > > > > > > -- Stephen Staum Pariser Industries, Inc. From peter at sunnybeeches.com Mon Apr 6 15:59:22 2020 From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg) Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2020 15:59:22 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] The Story Behind Silverheels In-Reply-To: References: <62090A2A-CB27-481E-9D1C-563EA2740FC6@sunnybeeches.com> Message-ID: The name of the boat comes from the lyrics of the song ?Christian Island? by Gordon Lightfoot (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zjd9rKZ9Crk ). Tall and strong she dips and reels I call her Silver Heels And she tells me how she feels She's a good old boat and she'll stay afloat Through the toughest gales and keep smilin' But for one more day she would like to stay In the lee of Christian Island The song dates from 1972, and I was taken by it the first time I heard it. So, I?ve had the thought of naming a sailboat ?Silverheels? stuck in my head for a long time. I always assumed that Lightfoot was making an analogy between the wake of a boat and the feet of a running horse, but for all I know he meant it as a tribute to Jay Silverheels, the actor who played Tonto in the old Lone Ranger TV show. I read somewhere that Lightfoot has owned several sailboats, but never one named Silverheels. ?Peter > On Apr 6, 2020, at 9:59 AM, Cary Tolbert wrote: > > Thanks Peter, I will wait for your photos. > Love your videos. Is there an interesting story behind the name of your > boat? > Cary > S/V Whisper '86 > From rlowe at vt.edu Mon Apr 6 16:18:45 2020 From: rlowe at vt.edu (Lowe, Rob) Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2020 20:18:45 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] The Story Behind Silverheels In-Reply-To: References: <62090A2A-CB27-481E-9D1C-563EA2740FC6@sunnybeeches.com> , Message-ID: Peter, What an interesting story. I've not heard this song before but do know many by Gordon Lightfoot. Naming your boat Silverheels seems like a fine tribute. Thanks for asking Cary. - rob ________________________________ From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of Peter Nyberg Sent: Monday, April 6, 2020 3:59 PM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: [Rhodes22-list] The Story Behind Silverheels The name of the boat comes from the lyrics of the song ?Christian Island? by Gordon Lightfoot (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zjd9rKZ9Crk ). Tall and strong she dips and reels I call her Silver Heels And she tells me how she feels She's a good old boat and she'll stay afloat Through the toughest gales and keep smilin' But for one more day she would like to stay In the lee of Christian Island The song dates from 1972, and I was taken by it the first time I heard it. So, I?ve had the thought of naming a sailboat ?Silverheels? stuck in my head for a long time. I always assumed that Lightfoot was making an analogy between the wake of a boat and the feet of a running horse, but for all I know he meant it as a tribute to Jay Silverheels, the actor who played Tonto in the old Lone Ranger TV show. I read somewhere that Lightfoot has owned several sailboats, but never one named Silverheels. ?Peter > On Apr 6, 2020, at 9:59 AM, Cary Tolbert wrote: > > Thanks Peter, I will wait for your photos. > Love your videos. Is there an interesting story behind the name of your > boat? > Cary > S/V Whisper '86 > From joedempsey at hughes.net Mon Apr 6 17:00:07 2020 From: joedempsey at hughes.net (Joe Dempsey) Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2020 14:00:07 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] IMF anchor light installation In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1586206807863-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Cary, My top plate is fixed with 3 tap screws. I've had it off with no problem. As far as an anchor light is concerned, I didn't want to go through the hastle of feeding another cable down the mast. Mine has insulation inside that keeps the existing wires from "clapping". I have a 3/16" flag halyard running to the peak both fore and aft on the mast. I run a traditional style battery powered lamp with LED bulb. When anchoring, I tie off the halyard to the foredeck cleat. LED meets USCG 2 mile viz requirment. Works great. ----- Joe Dempsey s/v Respite Rhodes 22 1989/2005 Deltaville,VA -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From joedempsey at hughes.net Mon Apr 6 17:09:53 2020 From: joedempsey at hughes.net (Joe Dempsey) Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2020 14:09:53 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] IMF anchor light installation In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1586207393755-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Here is photo of mast cap ----- Joe Dempsey s/v Respite Rhodes 22 1989/2005 Deltaville,VA -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From mtroy at atlanticbb.net Mon Apr 6 17:56:07 2020 From: mtroy at atlanticbb.net (Mary Lou Troy) Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2020 17:56:07 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] The Story Behind Silverheels In-Reply-To: References: <62090A2A-CB27-481E-9D1C-563EA2740FC6@sunnybeeches.com> Message-ID: <00b351f8-adb5-6ba9-3b3c-1a4f347a9855@atlanticbb.net> Peter, thanks for the story. There is a Chesapeake Log Canoe named Silver Heel built in 1902 an on the National Historic Register. I don't know the origine of her name but we've seen her many a time as the boats race locally https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silver_Heel_(log_canoe) https://www.facebook.com/silverheelfoundation/ Incredibly beautiful under sail https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m8xHXjsSbW0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P5KVKTp4q8A Mary Lou ex-Rhodes 22 now Rosborough RF-246 Rock Hall, MD On 4/6/2020 3:59 PM, Peter Nyberg wrote: > The name of the boat comes from the lyrics of the song ?Christian Island? by Gordon Lightfoot (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zjd9rKZ9Crk ). > > Tall and strong she dips and reels > I call her Silver Heels > And she tells me how she feels > She's a good old boat and she'll stay afloat > Through the toughest gales and keep smilin' > But for one more day she would like to stay > In the lee of Christian Island > > The song dates from 1972, and I was taken by it the first time I heard it. So, I?ve had the thought of naming a sailboat ?Silverheels? stuck in my head for a long time. > > I always assumed that Lightfoot was making an analogy between the wake of a boat and the feet of a running horse, but for all I know he meant it as a tribute to Jay Silverheels, the actor who played Tonto in the old Lone Ranger TV show. > > I read somewhere that Lightfoot has owned several sailboats, but never one named Silverheels. > > ?Peter > >> On Apr 6, 2020, at 9:59 AM, Cary Tolbert wrote: >> >> Thanks Peter, I will wait for your photos. >> Love your videos. Is there an interesting story behind the name of your >> boat? >> Cary >> S/V Whisper '86 >> -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus From Colealexander at hotmail.com Wed Apr 8 20:00:07 2020 From: Colealexander at hotmail.com (S/V Lark) Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2020 17:00:07 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchor stowage Message-ID: <1586390407358-0.post@n5.nabble.com> The Lark came with a bow pulpit rack and anchor. I bought a second danforth this winter, for redundancy on future cruises as well as ease of deploying from the cockpit if single handing. I want it low and stable, but don?t want to make too many amateur modifications to the boat. I?m imagining a white oak frame and straps glued to the lazarette, or alternately starboard. What have others done? Any cruise will be delayed from Covid and the depression, so I just want to measure or cut cardboard templates this weekend between work, and build something when the world starts spinning again. The state marina is still open, so I hope to prep around work his weekend and launch her next week. (Meanwhile I got some much needed hydrotherapy Buccaneer style with a wetsuit, instead of squandering a genuine wonderful day of not working by breaking the Lark out of her shrink wrap. Alex ----- Alex Cole S/V Lark -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From dwbrad at gmail.com Wed Apr 8 22:30:55 2020 From: dwbrad at gmail.com (David Bradley) Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2020 22:30:55 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchor stowage In-Reply-To: <1586390407358-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1586390407358-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: Hey Alex. Your idea sounds nice - will look forward to hearing others? ideas and seeing what you design. I have gotten by fine for years with a milk crate in the laz holding the rode and a second Danforth. Have a float tied off on the end in the event the whole things goes over?. I?m fine with dropping the anchor from the cockpit and walking it to the bow for a typical calm day/night at anchor. Dave B > On Apr 8, 2020, at 8:00 PM, S/V Lark wrote: > > The Lark came with a bow pulpit rack and anchor. I bought a second danforth > this winter, for redundancy on future cruises as well as ease of deploying > from the cockpit if single handing. I want it low and stable, but don?t > want to make too many amateur modifications to the boat. I?m imagining a > white oak frame and straps glued to the lazarette, or alternately starboard. > What have others done? Any cruise will be delayed from Covid and the > depression, so I just want to measure or cut cardboard templates this > weekend between work, and build something when the world starts spinning > again. The state marina is still open, so I hope to prep around work his > weekend and launch her next week. (Meanwhile I got some much needed > hydrotherapy Buccaneer style with a wetsuit, instead of squandering a > genuine wonderful day of not working by breaking the Lark out of her shrink > wrap. > > Alex > > > > > ----- > Alex Cole > S/V Lark > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From Iglesiaseric2431 at outlook.com Thu Apr 9 09:20:22 2020 From: Iglesiaseric2431 at outlook.com (Eric Igl) Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2020 13:20:22 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] 1992 R22 FOR SALE Message-ID: Good day all and to all a good day! Hope everyone is well and staying safe. I am announcing the sale of my well kept 1992 Rhodes 22. Boat is in great condition and will be cleaned up and polished before sale. Original trailer is also included in sail. Oops, I meant sale! ? She is located in the Hudson Valley. I have her posted on multiple platforms at the tune of $8,500. Please feel free to contact me if interested or know anyone who maybe. Iglesiaseric2431 at outlook.com Cell: 845-504-7460 Sent from my iPhone From robert at pamayared.com Thu Apr 9 09:33:41 2020 From: robert at pamayared.com (Robert@ Pamaya Red) Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2020 09:33:41 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Pop top enclosure In-Reply-To: References: <1579116012732-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: Hey Stephen. Find the pop top yet? On Tue, Mar 31, 2020, 11:15 AM Robert@ Pamaya Red wrote: > Great, let me know when you find it > Robert > > On Sun, Mar 29, 2020 at 1:39 PM Stephen Staum wrote: > >> Robert, >> >> I have a dumpster coming tomorrow & cleanup begins. Stay tuned. >> >> Stephen Staum >> s/v Carol Lee 2 >> Needham, MA >> >> On Fri, Mar 27, 2020 at 8:32 PM Robert@ Pamaya Red >> wrote: >> >> > Hey Steven >> > Hope all is well with you. >> > Thought that since most of us are home these days, did you have time to >> > look for the pop top enclosure. I realize might not be putting boats in >> the >> > water until this virus ends or at least lightens up, but would like to >> buy >> > it from you when you find it. >> > Thanks and stay safe >> > Robert >> > >> > On Fri, Jan 17, 2020, 6:27 AM Stephen Staum wrote: >> > >> > > I should have an extra pop top cover as I got one with each R22. >> Give me >> > > some time to dig through my debris. >> > > >> > > >> > > *Stephen Staum* >> > > *s/v Carol Lee 2* >> > > >> > > *Needham, MA* >> > > >> > > >> > > On Wed, Jan 15, 2020 at 2:18 PM robert51 >> wrote: >> > > >> > > > Looking for new or used pop top enclosure for 2012 Rhodes. Not sure >> if >> > > year >> > > > means anything but would like to find one by April >> > > > >> > > > >> > > > >> > > > -- >> > > > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ >> > > > >> > > >> > >> -- >> Stephen Staum >> Pariser Industries, Inc. >> > From Iglesiaseric2431 at outlook.com Thu Apr 9 09:49:53 2020 From: Iglesiaseric2431 at outlook.com (Eric Igl) Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2020 13:49:53 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] 1992 R22 for sale Message-ID: [image1.jpeg] [image2.jpeg] [image3.jpeg] [image4.jpeg] [image5.jpeg] [image7.jpeg] [image6.jpeg] [image8.jpeg] [image9.jpeg] -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image1.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 26309 bytes Desc: image1.jpeg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image2.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 47738 bytes Desc: image2.jpeg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... 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Name: image9.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 45449 bytes Desc: image9.jpeg URL: From bferguson at jcu.edu Thu Apr 9 09:53:02 2020 From: bferguson at jcu.edu (NewIn76) Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2020 06:53:02 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] 1992 R22 for sale In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1586440382347-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Pretty awesome that NY State gave you "GB" for General Boats in the registration. ----- Brian 1976 Rhodes 22 Cleveland -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From Iglesiaseric2431 at outlook.com Thu Apr 9 09:56:58 2020 From: Iglesiaseric2431 at outlook.com (Eric Igl) Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2020 13:56:58 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] (no subject) Message-ID: That added feature cost me an extra $2,000 to have GB tossed in there.... They classified it as a NY luxury tax. ? Sent from my iPhone From Iglesiaseric2431 at outlook.com Thu Apr 9 10:03:19 2020 From: Iglesiaseric2431 at outlook.com (Eric Igl) Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2020 14:03:19 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] 1992 R22 for sale Message-ID: If anyone knows anyone looking please send them my way. Keep in mind she was just uncovered from winter storage and will be pressure washed scrubbed and polished before sale. Sent from my iPhone From Iglesiaseric2431 at outlook.com Thu Apr 9 13:05:30 2020 From: Iglesiaseric2431 at outlook.com (Eric Igl) Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2020 17:05:30 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] 1992 R22 for sale Message-ID: I have also listed with sailingtexas. https://sailingtexas.com/202001/srhodes22135.html Sent from my iPhone From mweisner at ebsmed.com Thu Apr 9 13:10:59 2020 From: mweisner at ebsmed.com (Michael D. Weisner) Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2020 13:10:59 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] 1992 R22 for sale In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <002101d60e91$d7b3a610$871af230$@ebsmed.com> Engine?? Mike s/v Wind Lass ('91) Nissequogue River, NY I?d rather be sailing :~) -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of Eric Igl Sent: Thursday, April 9, 2020 1:06 PM To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: [Rhodes22-list] 1992 R22 for sale I have also listed with sailingtexas. https://sailingtexas.com/202001/srhodes22135.html Sent from my iPhone From robert at pamayared.com Thu Apr 9 13:47:27 2020 From: robert at pamayared.com (Robert@ Pamaya Red) Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2020 13:47:27 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Pop top enclosure Message-ID: Hey stephen, Have you found the pop top yet? On Tue, Mar 31, 2020, 11:15 AM Robert@ Pamaya Red wrote: > Great, let me know when you find it > Robert > > On Sun, Mar 29, 2020 at 1:39 PM Stephen Staum wrote: > >> Robert, >> >> I have a dumpster coming tomorrow & cleanup begins. Stay tuned. >> >> Stephen Staum >> s/v Carol Lee 2 >> Needham, MA >> >> On Fri, Mar 27, 2020 at 8:32 PM Robert@ Pamaya Red >> wrote: >> >> > Hey Steven >> > Hope all is well with you. >> > Thought that since most of us are home these days, did you have time to >> > look for the pop top enclosure. I realize might not be putting boats in >> the >> > water until this virus ends or at least lightens up, but would like to >> buy >> > it from you when you find it. >> > Thanks and stay safe >> > Robert >> > >> > On Fri, Jan 17, 2020, 6:27 AM Stephen Staum wrote: >> > >> > > I should have an extra pop top cover as I got one with each R22. >> Give me >> > > some time to dig through my debris. >> > > >> > > >> > > *Stephen Staum* >> > > *s/v Carol Lee 2* >> > > >> > > *Needham, MA* >> > > >> > > >> > > On Wed, Jan 15, 2020 at 2:18 PM robert51 >> wrote: >> > > >> > > > Looking for new or used pop top enclosure for 2012 Rhodes. Not sure >> if >> > > year >> > > > means anything but would like to find one by April >> > > > >> > > > >> > > > >> > > > -- >> > > > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ >> > > > >> > > >> > >> -- >> Stephen Staum >> Pariser Industries, Inc. >> > From Iglesiaseric2431 at outlook.com Thu Apr 9 13:48:59 2020 From: Iglesiaseric2431 at outlook.com (Eric Igl) Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2020 17:48:59 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] 1992 R22 for sale Message-ID: No outboard. Keeping it for my other boat. If I get asking price I can include one. Sent from my iPhone From jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com Thu Apr 9 18:42:46 2020 From: jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com (JeffSmith) Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2020 15:42:46 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] IMF anchor light installation In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1586472166137-0.post@n5.nabble.com> To remove the pop rivets you can drill them out with the appropriate size drill and replace them with the same size. There is no load, so aluminum rivets should work fine. I pulled the 2 machine screws from the top cover of my mast today to load a 1/4" hardware store line with 8" cable ties every foot or so in the wire channel to quiet the wire slap. I expect it to work, but don't know yet. I didn't want to remove and re-pull the masthead wire and risk messing it up. First I tape-ed the 1/4" line to a 25' electricians snake, but that got hung up, so I used the snake to run an 1/8" dacron line from the top of the lowered mast to the base which worked. Then rolling hitched & taped the 1/8" to the 1/4"and pulled. "In like Flynn" (that expression is even before my time). -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From retiredtoby at gmail.com Thu Apr 9 22:07:33 2020 From: retiredtoby at gmail.com (Cary Tolbert) Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2020 22:07:33 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] IMF anchor light installation In-Reply-To: <1586472166137-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1586472166137-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: Thanks Jeff, for sharing your experiences. It seems reasonable and straight forward. So here goes nothing and I am sure the worst thing will be some scraped knuckles. Cary S/V Whisper '86 On Thu, Apr 9, 2020 at 6:42 PM JeffSmith wrote: > To remove the pop rivets you can drill them out with the appropriate size > drill and replace them with the same size. There is no load, so aluminum > rivets should work fine. > I pulled the 2 machine screws from the top cover of my mast today to load a > 1/4" hardware store line with 8" cable ties every foot or so in the wire > channel to quiet the wire slap. I expect it to work, but don't know yet. I > didn't want to remove and re-pull the masthead wire and risk messing it > up. > First I tape-ed the 1/4" line to a 25' electricians snake, but that got > hung > up, so I used the snake to run an 1/8" dacron line from the top of the > lowered mast to the base which worked. Then rolling hitched & taped the > 1/8" > to the 1/4"and pulled. "In like Flynn" (that expression is even before my > time). > > > > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > From jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com Fri Apr 10 12:47:14 2020 From: jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com (JeffSmith) Date: Fri, 10 Apr 2020 09:47:14 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] CDI FF2 Upgrades Message-ID: <1586537234319-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Radiant (now) came with a CDI FF2 jib furler. The halyard was old and I had a very difficult time re-raising the 170 Genoa. My rigger Dave Thompson suggested that over time the all plastic "halyard top cap" been cut into by the halyard, creating almost a clam cleat. CDI has a newly designed top cap with a sheave for $68. A new halyard is $64. And a new "ball bearing" bearing (BB2) for $138, which Dave strongly recommends. Has anyone had experience with these upgrades or alternatives? -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From jsail1 at verizon.net Fri Apr 10 13:23:47 2020 From: jsail1 at verizon.net (JAY FRIEDLAND) Date: Fri, 10 Apr 2020 13:23:47 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] CDI FF2 Upgrades In-Reply-To: <1586537234319-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1586537234319-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <55FA9B64-A487-4A07-ADA5-FA545C7D2FA2@verizon.net> Jeff, My rigger also is Dave Thompson (@ Cedar Creek). The same? Do you switch sails? As I understood, that was the only reason for the internal halyard. I remove my mast and furler as a bundle.The halyard was used once or twice in it?s life (23 years old), so I can?t relate to that plastic top issue with my CDI. I reduced jib size from a 155 as my only sail to a 135, as on Barnegat we?re blessed with moderate to high winds. The lack of the ball bearings doesn?t seem to present any difficulty with a smaller sail. Wish I could offer better info. Jay Friedland s/v Wanderlust ?97 > On Apr 10, 2020, at 12:47 PM, JeffSmith wrote: > > Radiant (now) came with a CDI FF2 jib furler. The halyard was old and I had > a very difficult time re-raising the 170 Genoa. My rigger Dave Thompson > suggested that over time the all plastic "halyard top cap" been cut into by > the halyard, creating almost a clam cleat. CDI has a newly designed top cap > with a sheave for $68. A new halyard is $64. And a new "ball bearing" > bearing (BB2) for $138, which Dave strongly recommends. > Has anyone had experience with these upgrades or alternatives? > > > > > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From Iglesiaseric2431 at outlook.com Fri Apr 10 14:26:30 2020 From: Iglesiaseric2431 at outlook.com (Eric Igl) Date: Fri, 10 Apr 2020 18:26:30 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] 1992 R22 for sale Message-ID: Just a heads up. Now until Sunday I would except $5,500. After this weekend price is back to original for spring. Sent from my iPhone From jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com Sat Apr 11 06:39:50 2020 From: jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com (JeffSmith) Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2020 03:39:50 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] CDI FF2 Upgrades In-Reply-To: <55FA9B64-A487-4A07-ADA5-FA545C7D2FA2@verizon.net> References: <1586537234319-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <55FA9B64-A487-4A07-ADA5-FA545C7D2FA2@verizon.net> Message-ID: <1586601590495-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Hi Jay, Thanks for the input. I'm going to start out with the 170 and see how that works, but have a 130 that needs a sun cover and a North racing sail from a Catalina 22 which needs luff tape. Yes Dave Thompson @ Cedar Creek. We have been working together for 25 years since he was in South Amboy. He's the best! Do you race your boat? ----- Jeff Smith 2009 R22 #101 RADIANT Atlantic Highlands Municpal Harbor Atlantic Highlands, NJ -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From jsail1 at verizon.net Sat Apr 11 08:40:12 2020 From: jsail1 at verizon.net (JAY FRIEDLAND) Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2020 08:40:12 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] CDI FF2 Upgrades In-Reply-To: <1586601590495-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1586537234319-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <55FA9B64-A487-4A07-ADA5-FA545C7D2FA2@verizon.net> <1586601590495-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <1D5838E9-892A-4240-B9D0-CCE5C64D973E@verizon.net> Jeff, I haven?t raced, but I?m good crew, if you need. Used to crew on R19s near Riverside on Delaware River. I?m further south, Long Beach Island, if you?re ever in the area. Hoping to get my boat in early May. Good luck w/ your headsails. Jay > On Apr 11, 2020, at 6:39 AM, JeffSmith wrote: > > Hi Jay, > Thanks for the input. I'm going to start out with the 170 and see how that > works, but have a 130 that needs a sun cover and a North racing sail from a > Catalina 22 which needs luff tape. > Yes Dave Thompson @ Cedar Creek. We have been working together for 25 years > since he was in South Amboy. He's the best! > Do you race your boat? > > > > ----- > Jeff Smith > 2009 R22 #101 RADIANT > Atlantic Highlands Municpal Harbor > Atlantic Highlands, NJ > > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From Iglesiaseric2431 at outlook.com Sat Apr 11 09:08:10 2020 From: Iglesiaseric2431 at outlook.com (Eric Igl) Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2020 13:08:10 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] V-Berth Board materials Message-ID: You could just buy my boat Brian. 1991. $5,500 ready to sail. Needs minimal elbow grease to bring back to pristine. Sent from my iPhone From Iglesiaseric2431 at outlook.com Sat Apr 11 09:16:34 2020 From: Iglesiaseric2431 at outlook.com (HudsonValleyRhodes) Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2020 06:16:34 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] V-Berth Board materials In-Reply-To: <1585753692755-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1585675158192-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <061f01d607cf$a66cc820$f3465860$@ca> <1585750709593-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <063801d60833$d81f90f0$885eb2d0$@ca> <1585753692755-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <1586610994523-0.post@n5.nabble.com> You could just buy my ?91. Tada! You?d have a newer boat just like that. -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From bferguson at jcu.edu Sat Apr 11 09:34:57 2020 From: bferguson at jcu.edu (NewIn76) Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2020 06:34:57 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] V-Berth Board materials In-Reply-To: <1586610994523-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1585675158192-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <061f01d607cf$a66cc820$f3465860$@ca> <1585750709593-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <063801d60833$d81f90f0$885eb2d0$@ca> <1585753692755-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1586610994523-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <1586612097634-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Yes, I know. Believe me, I had/have thought of that. ----- Brian 1976 Rhodes 22 Cleveland -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From Iglesiaseric2431 at outlook.com Sat Apr 11 09:50:15 2020 From: Iglesiaseric2431 at outlook.com (HudsonValleyRhodes) Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2020 06:50:15 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] V-Berth Board materials In-Reply-To: <1586612097634-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1585675158192-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <061f01d607cf$a66cc820$f3465860$@ca> <1585750709593-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <063801d60833$d81f90f0$885eb2d0$@ca> <1585753692755-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1586610994523-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1586612097634-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <1586613015844-0.post@n5.nabble.com> $5,500. I need a new truck and you need a newer Rhodes. Sounds like providence. -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From mweisner at ebsmed.com Sat Apr 11 10:05:55 2020 From: mweisner at ebsmed.com (Michael Weisner) Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2020 10:05:55 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] V-Berth Board materials In-Reply-To: <1586613015844-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: Eric,Enough already! We get the message.Mikes/v WindLass ('91) $5,500.? I need a new truck and you need a newer Rhodes. Sounds likeprovidence.? From Iglesiaseric2431 at outlook.com Sat Apr 11 10:42:10 2020 From: Iglesiaseric2431 at outlook.com (HudsonValleyRhodes) Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2020 07:42:10 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] V-Berth Board materials In-Reply-To: References: <1585675158192-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <061f01d607cf$a66cc820$f3465860$@ca> <1585750709593-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <063801d60833$d81f90f0$885eb2d0$@ca> <1585753692755-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1586610994523-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1586612097634-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1586613015844-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <1586616130320-0.post@n5.nabble.com> ????? -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com Sat Apr 11 18:31:08 2020 From: chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com (Chris Geankoplis) Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2020 18:31:08 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] V-Berth Board materials In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Great price. I can?t afford the boat and the cost of the divorce lawyer simultaneously. (Grin) Chris Geankoplis ENOSIS On Sat, 11 Apr 2020 at 09:08, Eric Igl wrote: > You could just buy my boat Brian. 1991. $5,500 ready to sail. Needs > minimal elbow grease to bring back to pristine. > > Sent from my iPhone > From saraoppenheim at gmail.com Sun Apr 12 12:24:15 2020 From: saraoppenheim at gmail.com (Sara Oppenheim) Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2020 12:24:15 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] mast hoist available in Delaware Message-ID: Hi Rhodes people-- We no longer have our Rhodes, but during a shelter-in-place cleaning frenzy I realized that we DO still have our mast hoist. The hoist is in Northern Delaware. If any Northeast Rhodie would like to have it, drop me a line at saraoppenheim at gmail.com. I realize no one wants to come foraging now, but if I know someone wants it I'm willing to store it for awhile. Best wishes to all of you! Sara From mitchpadl at gmail.com Sun Apr 12 14:14:36 2020 From: mitchpadl at gmail.com (Mitch Mitchell) Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2020 14:14:36 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] mast hoist available in Delaware In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <78C88342-603F-4DCF-881A-39E686E7DD54@gmail.com> Hi Sara, I would be interested in the hoist. I have a relatively new to me Rhodes and the biggest problem and the reason we haven?t used it much is the whole ?raising the mast part?. I live in southern DE but my wife goes up to Wilmington periodically for a class. Let me know if you still have it. Thanks, Mitch Sent from my iPhone > On Apr 12, 2020, at 12:24 PM, Sara Oppenheim wrote: > > ?Hi Rhodes people-- > > We no longer have our Rhodes, but during a shelter-in-place cleaning frenzy > I realized that we DO still have our mast hoist. The hoist is in Northern > Delaware. If any Northeast Rhodie would like to have it, drop me a line at > saraoppenheim at gmail.com. I realize no one wants to come foraging now, but > if I know someone wants it I'm willing to store it for awhile. > > Best wishes to all of you! > Sara From jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com Sun Apr 12 14:57:19 2020 From: jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com (JeffSmith) Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2020 11:57:19 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Is the R22 noisy at anchor? In-Reply-To: <1586180026956-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1585860589866-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1586180026956-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <1586717839076-0.post@n5.nabble.com> I bought a 1/2" grommet kit from the local hardware store for about 8 bucks (the big box stores also have them) and used webbing I already had, being a bit of a horder... You can by tie down straps and cut the buckles off. I made (3) six inch straps with a grommet on each end. The straps were doubled where the grommets were attached. I have a very good Harbor Freight hole punch that I used in a circle to create the 1/2" hole for the grommets. The 3/8"x4" mast bolt was replaced by a 5" cut down a little to accommodate the straps. The third strap will be used on either of the cabin top grab rails, transferring the snap shackle from the mast base to the grab rail - to use the vang as a preventer. My 3 part vang which I had from a previous boat has snap shackles on each end. The single block with a tang fits through the straps at the base of the mast - the other is two blocks which has a jam cleat - that attaches to a bale ($30 with shipping from defender.com) on the boom. ----- Jeff Smith 2009 R22 #101 RADIANT Atlantic Highlands Municpal Harbor Atlantic Highlands, NJ -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From joedempsey at hughes.net Mon Apr 13 13:40:02 2020 From: joedempsey at hughes.net (Joe Dempsey) Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2020 13:40:02 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Rhodes22-list Digest, Vol 4180, Issue 1 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <017501d611ba$97e82110$c7b86330$@hughes.net> Good thing you didn't name her "Edmund Fitzgerald"! -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of rhodes22-list-request at rhodes22.org Sent: Sunday, April 12, 2020 12:25 PM To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: Rhodes22-list Digest, Vol 4180, Issue 1 Send Rhodes22-list mailing list submissions to rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to rhodes22-list-request at rhodes22.org You can reach the person managing the list at rhodes22-list-owner at rhodes22.org When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of Rhodes22-list digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Re: The Story Behind Silverheels (Lowe, Rob) 2. Re: IMF anchor light installation (Joe Dempsey) 3. Re: IMF anchor light installation (Joe Dempsey) 4. Re: The Story Behind Silverheels (Mary Lou Troy) 5. Anchor stowage (S/V Lark) 6. Re: Anchor stowage (David Bradley) 7. 1992 R22 FOR SALE (Eric Igl) 8. Re: Pop top enclosure (Robert@ Pamaya Red) 9. 1992 R22 for sale (Eric Igl) 10. Re: 1992 R22 for sale (NewIn76) 11. (no subject) (Eric Igl) 12. 1992 R22 for sale (Eric Igl) 13. 1992 R22 for sale (Eric Igl) 14. Re: 1992 R22 for sale (Michael D. Weisner) 15. Re: Pop top enclosure (Robert@ Pamaya Red) 16. 1992 R22 for sale (Eric Igl) 17. Re: IMF anchor light installation (JeffSmith) 18. Re: IMF anchor light installation (Cary Tolbert) 19. CDI FF2 Upgrades (JeffSmith) 20. Re: CDI FF2 Upgrades (JAY FRIEDLAND) 21. 1992 R22 for sale (Eric Igl) 22. Re: CDI FF2 Upgrades (JeffSmith) 23. Re: CDI FF2 Upgrades (JAY FRIEDLAND) 24. V-Berth Board materials (Eric Igl) 25. Re: V-Berth Board materials (HudsonValleyRhodes) 26. Re: V-Berth Board materials (NewIn76) 27. Re: V-Berth Board materials (HudsonValleyRhodes) 28. Re: V-Berth Board materials (Michael Weisner) 29. Re: V-Berth Board materials (HudsonValleyRhodes) 30. Re: V-Berth Board materials (Chris Geankoplis) 31. mast hoist available in Delaware (Sara Oppenheim) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2020 20:18:45 +0000 From: "Lowe, Rob" To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] The Story Behind Silverheels Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Peter, What an interesting story. I've not heard this song before but do know many by Gordon Lightfoot. Naming your boat Silverheels seems like a fine tribute. Thanks for asking Cary. - rob ________________________________ From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of Peter Nyberg Sent: Monday, April 6, 2020 3:59 PM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: [Rhodes22-list] The Story Behind Silverheels The name of the boat comes from the lyrics of the song ?Christian Island? by Gordon Lightfoot (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zjd9rKZ9Crk ). Tall and strong she dips and reels I call her Silver Heels And she tells me how she feels She's a good old boat and she'll stay afloat Through the toughest gales and keep smilin' But for one more day she would like to stay In the lee of Christian Island The song dates from 1972, and I was taken by it the first time I heard it. So, I?ve had the thought of naming a sailboat ?Silverheels? stuck in my head for a long time. I always assumed that Lightfoot was making an analogy between the wake of a boat and the feet of a running horse, but for all I know he meant it as a tribute to Jay Silverheels, the actor who played Tonto in the old Lone Ranger TV show. I read somewhere that Lightfoot has owned several sailboats, but never one named Silverheels. ?Peter > On Apr 6, 2020, at 9:59 AM, Cary Tolbert wrote: > > Thanks Peter, I will wait for your photos. > Love your videos. Is there an interesting story behind the name of > your boat? > Cary > S/V Whisper '86 > ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2020 14:00:07 -0700 (MST) From: Joe Dempsey To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] IMF anchor light installation Message-ID: <1586206807863-0.post at n5.nabble.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Cary, My top plate is fixed with 3 tap screws. I've had it off with no problem. As far as an anchor light is concerned, I didn't want to go through the hastle of feeding another cable down the mast. Mine has insulation inside that keeps the existing wires from "clapping". I have a 3/16" flag halyard running to the peak both fore and aft on the mast. I run a traditional style battery powered lamp with LED bulb. When anchoring, I tie off the halyard to the foredeck cleat. LED meets USCG 2 mile viz requirment. Works great. ----- Joe Dempsey s/v Respite Rhodes 22 1989/2005 Deltaville,VA -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2020 14:09:53 -0700 (MST) From: Joe Dempsey To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] IMF anchor light installation Message-ID: <1586207393755-0.post at n5.nabble.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Here is photo of mast cap ----- Joe Dempsey s/v Respite Rhodes 22 1989/2005 Deltaville,VA -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ ------------------------------ Message: 4 Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2020 17:56:07 -0400 From: Mary Lou Troy To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] The Story Behind Silverheels Message-ID: <00b351f8-adb5-6ba9-3b3c-1a4f347a9855 at atlanticbb.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed Peter, thanks for the story. There is a Chesapeake Log Canoe named Silver Heel built in 1902 an on the National Historic Register. I don't know the origine of her name but we've seen her many a time as the boats race locally https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silver_Heel_(log_canoe) https://www.facebook.com/silverheelfoundation/ Incredibly beautiful under sail https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m8xHXjsSbW0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P5KVKTp4q8A Mary Lou ex-Rhodes 22 now Rosborough RF-246 Rock Hall, MD On 4/6/2020 3:59 PM, Peter Nyberg wrote: > The name of the boat comes from the lyrics of the song ?Christian Island? by Gordon Lightfoot (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zjd9rKZ9Crk ). > > Tall and strong she dips and reels > I call her Silver Heels > And she tells me how she feels > She's a good old boat and she'll stay afloat > Through the toughest gales and keep smilin' > But for one more day she would like to stay > In the lee of Christian Island > > The song dates from 1972, and I was taken by it the first time I heard it. So, I?ve had the thought of naming a sailboat ?Silverheels? stuck in my head for a long time. > > I always assumed that Lightfoot was making an analogy between the wake of a boat and the feet of a running horse, but for all I know he meant it as a tribute to Jay Silverheels, the actor who played Tonto in the old Lone Ranger TV show. > > I read somewhere that Lightfoot has owned several sailboats, but never one named Silverheels. > > ?Peter > >> On Apr 6, 2020, at 9:59 AM, Cary Tolbert wrote: >> >> Thanks Peter, I will wait for your photos. >> Love your videos. Is there an interesting story behind the name of your >> boat? >> Cary >> S/V Whisper '86 >> -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus ------------------------------ Message: 5 Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2020 17:00:07 -0700 (MST) From: S/V Lark To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchor stowage Message-ID: <1586390407358-0.post at n5.nabble.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 The Lark came with a bow pulpit rack and anchor. I bought a second danforth this winter, for redundancy on future cruises as well as ease of deploying from the cockpit if single handing. I want it low and stable, but don?t want to make too many amateur modifications to the boat. I?m imagining a white oak frame and straps glued to the lazarette, or alternately starboard. What have others done? Any cruise will be delayed from Covid and the depression, so I just want to measure or cut cardboard templates this weekend between work, and build something when the world starts spinning again. The state marina is still open, so I hope to prep around work his weekend and launch her next week. (Meanwhile I got some much needed hydrotherapy Buccaneer style with a wetsuit, instead of squandering a genuine wonderful day of not working by breaking the Lark out of her shrink wrap. Alex ----- Alex Cole S/V Lark -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ ------------------------------ Message: 6 Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2020 22:30:55 -0400 From: David Bradley To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Anchor stowage Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 Hey Alex. Your idea sounds nice - will look forward to hearing others? ideas and seeing what you design. I have gotten by fine for years with a milk crate in the laz holding the rode and a second Danforth. Have a float tied off on the end in the event the whole things goes over?. I?m fine with dropping the anchor from the cockpit and walking it to the bow for a typical calm day/night at anchor. Dave B > On Apr 8, 2020, at 8:00 PM, S/V Lark wrote: > > The Lark came with a bow pulpit rack and anchor. I bought a second danforth > this winter, for redundancy on future cruises as well as ease of deploying > from the cockpit if single handing. I want it low and stable, but don?t > want to make too many amateur modifications to the boat. I?m imagining a > white oak frame and straps glued to the lazarette, or alternately starboard. > What have others done? Any cruise will be delayed from Covid and the > depression, so I just want to measure or cut cardboard templates this > weekend between work, and build something when the world starts spinning > again. The state marina is still open, so I hope to prep around work his > weekend and launch her next week. (Meanwhile I got some much needed > hydrotherapy Buccaneer style with a wetsuit, instead of squandering a > genuine wonderful day of not working by breaking the Lark out of her shrink > wrap. > > Alex > > > > > ----- > Alex Cole > S/V Lark > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ ------------------------------ Message: 7 Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2020 13:20:22 +0000 From: Eric Igl To: "rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org" Subject: [Rhodes22-list] 1992 R22 FOR SALE Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" Good day all and to all a good day! Hope everyone is well and staying safe. I am announcing the sale of my well kept 1992 Rhodes 22. Boat is in great condition and will be cleaned up and polished before sale. Original trailer is also included in sail. Oops, I meant sale! ? She is located in the Hudson Valley. I have her posted on multiple platforms at the tune of $8,500. Please feel free to contact me if interested or know anyone who maybe. Iglesiaseric2431 at outlook.com Cell: 845-504-7460 Sent from my iPhone ------------------------------ Message: 8 Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2020 09:33:41 -0400 From: "Robert@ Pamaya Red" To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Pop top enclosure Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8" Hey Stephen. Find the pop top yet? On Tue, Mar 31, 2020, 11:15 AM Robert@ Pamaya Red wrote: > Great, let me know when you find it > Robert > > On Sun, Mar 29, 2020 at 1:39 PM Stephen Staum wrote: > >> Robert, >> >> I have a dumpster coming tomorrow & cleanup begins. Stay tuned. >> >> Stephen Staum >> s/v Carol Lee 2 >> Needham, MA >> >> On Fri, Mar 27, 2020 at 8:32 PM Robert@ Pamaya Red >> wrote: >> >> > Hey Steven >> > Hope all is well with you. >> > Thought that since most of us are home these days, did you have time to >> > look for the pop top enclosure. I realize might not be putting boats in >> the >> > water until this virus ends or at least lightens up, but would like to >> buy >> > it from you when you find it. >> > Thanks and stay safe >> > Robert >> > >> > On Fri, Jan 17, 2020, 6:27 AM Stephen Staum wrote: >> > >> > > I should have an extra pop top cover as I got one with each R22. >> Give me >> > > some time to dig through my debris. >> > > >> > > >> > > *Stephen Staum* >> > > *s/v Carol Lee 2* >> > > >> > > *Needham, MA* >> > > >> > > >> > > On Wed, Jan 15, 2020 at 2:18 PM robert51 >> wrote: >> > > >> > > > Looking for new or used pop top enclosure for 2012 Rhodes. Not sure >> if >> > > year >> > > > means anything but would like to find one by April >> > > > >> > > > >> > > > >> > > > -- >> > > > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ >> > > > >> > > >> > >> -- >> Stephen Staum >> Pariser Industries, Inc. >> > ------------------------------ Message: 9 Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2020 13:49:53 +0000 From: Eric Igl To: "rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org" Subject: [Rhodes22-list] 1992 R22 for sale Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" [image1.jpeg] [image2.jpeg] [image3.jpeg] [image4.jpeg] [image5.jpeg] [image7.jpeg] [image6.jpeg] [image8.jpeg] [image9.jpeg] -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image1.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 26309 bytes Desc: image1.jpeg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... 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Name: image8.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 26632 bytes Desc: image8.jpeg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image9.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 45449 bytes Desc: image9.jpeg URL: ------------------------------ Message: 10 Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2020 06:53:02 -0700 (MST) From: NewIn76 To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] 1992 R22 for sale Message-ID: <1586440382347-0.post at n5.nabble.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Pretty awesome that NY State gave you "GB" for General Boats in the registration. ----- Brian 1976 Rhodes 22 Cleveland -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ ------------------------------ Message: 11 Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2020 13:56:58 +0000 From: Eric Igl To: "rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org" Subject: [Rhodes22-list] (no subject) Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" That added feature cost me an extra $2,000 to have GB tossed in there.... They classified it as a NY luxury tax. ? Sent from my iPhone ------------------------------ Message: 12 Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2020 14:03:19 +0000 From: Eric Igl To: "rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org" Subject: [Rhodes22-list] 1992 R22 for sale Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" If anyone knows anyone looking please send them my way. Keep in mind she was just uncovered from winter storage and will be pressure washed scrubbed and polished before sale. Sent from my iPhone ------------------------------ Message: 13 Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2020 17:05:30 +0000 From: Eric Igl To: "rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org" Subject: [Rhodes22-list] 1992 R22 for sale Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" I have also listed with sailingtexas. https://sailingtexas.com/202001/srhodes22135.html Sent from my iPhone ------------------------------ Message: 14 Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2020 13:10:59 -0400 From: "Michael D. Weisner" To: "'The Rhodes 22 Email List'" Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] 1992 R22 for sale Message-ID: <002101d60e91$d7b3a610$871af230$@ebsmed.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" Engine?? Mike s/v Wind Lass ('91) Nissequogue River, NY I?d rather be sailing :~) -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of Eric Igl Sent: Thursday, April 9, 2020 1:06 PM To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: [Rhodes22-list] 1992 R22 for sale I have also listed with sailingtexas. https://sailingtexas.com/202001/srhodes22135.html Sent from my iPhone ------------------------------ Message: 15 Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2020 13:47:27 -0400 From: "Robert@ Pamaya Red" To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Pop top enclosure Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8" Hey stephen, Have you found the pop top yet? On Tue, Mar 31, 2020, 11:15 AM Robert@ Pamaya Red wrote: > Great, let me know when you find it > Robert > > On Sun, Mar 29, 2020 at 1:39 PM Stephen Staum wrote: > >> Robert, >> >> I have a dumpster coming tomorrow & cleanup begins. Stay tuned. >> >> Stephen Staum >> s/v Carol Lee 2 >> Needham, MA >> >> On Fri, Mar 27, 2020 at 8:32 PM Robert@ Pamaya Red >> wrote: >> >> > Hey Steven >> > Hope all is well with you. >> > Thought that since most of us are home these days, did you have time to >> > look for the pop top enclosure. I realize might not be putting boats in >> the >> > water until this virus ends or at least lightens up, but would like to >> buy >> > it from you when you find it. >> > Thanks and stay safe >> > Robert >> > >> > On Fri, Jan 17, 2020, 6:27 AM Stephen Staum wrote: >> > >> > > I should have an extra pop top cover as I got one with each R22. >> Give me >> > > some time to dig through my debris. >> > > >> > > >> > > *Stephen Staum* >> > > *s/v Carol Lee 2* >> > > >> > > *Needham, MA* >> > > >> > > >> > > On Wed, Jan 15, 2020 at 2:18 PM robert51 >> wrote: >> > > >> > > > Looking for new or used pop top enclosure for 2012 Rhodes. Not sure >> if >> > > year >> > > > means anything but would like to find one by April >> > > > >> > > > >> > > > >> > > > -- >> > > > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ >> > > > >> > > >> > >> -- >> Stephen Staum >> Pariser Industries, Inc. >> > ------------------------------ Message: 16 Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2020 17:48:59 +0000 From: Eric Igl To: "rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org" Subject: [Rhodes22-list] 1992 R22 for sale Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" No outboard. Keeping it for my other boat. If I get asking price I can include one. Sent from my iPhone ------------------------------ Message: 17 Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2020 15:42:46 -0700 (MST) From: JeffSmith To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] IMF anchor light installation Message-ID: <1586472166137-0.post at n5.nabble.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii To remove the pop rivets you can drill them out with the appropriate size drill and replace them with the same size. There is no load, so aluminum rivets should work fine. I pulled the 2 machine screws from the top cover of my mast today to load a 1/4" hardware store line with 8" cable ties every foot or so in the wire channel to quiet the wire slap. I expect it to work, but don't know yet. I didn't want to remove and re-pull the masthead wire and risk messing it up. First I tape-ed the 1/4" line to a 25' electricians snake, but that got hung up, so I used the snake to run an 1/8" dacron line from the top of the lowered mast to the base which worked. Then rolling hitched & taped the 1/8" to the 1/4"and pulled. "In like Flynn" (that expression is even before my time). -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ ------------------------------ Message: 18 Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2020 22:07:33 -0400 From: Cary Tolbert To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] IMF anchor light installation Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8" Thanks Jeff, for sharing your experiences. It seems reasonable and straight forward. So here goes nothing and I am sure the worst thing will be some scraped knuckles. Cary S/V Whisper '86 On Thu, Apr 9, 2020 at 6:42 PM JeffSmith wrote: > To remove the pop rivets you can drill them out with the appropriate size > drill and replace them with the same size. There is no load, so aluminum > rivets should work fine. > I pulled the 2 machine screws from the top cover of my mast today to load a > 1/4" hardware store line with 8" cable ties every foot or so in the wire > channel to quiet the wire slap. I expect it to work, but don't know yet. I > didn't want to remove and re-pull the masthead wire and risk messing it > up. > First I tape-ed the 1/4" line to a 25' electricians snake, but that got > hung > up, so I used the snake to run an 1/8" dacron line from the top of the > lowered mast to the base which worked. Then rolling hitched & taped the > 1/8" > to the 1/4"and pulled. "In like Flynn" (that expression is even before my > time). > > > > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > ------------------------------ Message: 19 Date: Fri, 10 Apr 2020 09:47:14 -0700 (MST) From: JeffSmith To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: [Rhodes22-list] CDI FF2 Upgrades Message-ID: <1586537234319-0.post at n5.nabble.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Radiant (now) came with a CDI FF2 jib furler. The halyard was old and I had a very difficult time re-raising the 170 Genoa. My rigger Dave Thompson suggested that over time the all plastic "halyard top cap" been cut into by the halyard, creating almost a clam cleat. CDI has a newly designed top cap with a sheave for $68. A new halyard is $64. And a new "ball bearing" bearing (BB2) for $138, which Dave strongly recommends. Has anyone had experience with these upgrades or alternatives? -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ ------------------------------ Message: 20 Date: Fri, 10 Apr 2020 13:23:47 -0400 From: JAY FRIEDLAND To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] CDI FF2 Upgrades Message-ID: <55FA9B64-A487-4A07-ADA5-FA545C7D2FA2 at verizon.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 Jeff, My rigger also is Dave Thompson (@ Cedar Creek). The same? Do you switch sails? As I understood, that was the only reason for the internal halyard. I remove my mast and furler as a bundle.The halyard was used once or twice in it?s life (23 years old), so I can?t relate to that plastic top issue with my CDI. I reduced jib size from a 155 as my only sail to a 135, as on Barnegat we?re blessed with moderate to high winds. The lack of the ball bearings doesn?t seem to present any difficulty with a smaller sail. Wish I could offer better info. Jay Friedland s/v Wanderlust ?97 > On Apr 10, 2020, at 12:47 PM, JeffSmith wrote: > > Radiant (now) came with a CDI FF2 jib furler. The halyard was old and I had > a very difficult time re-raising the 170 Genoa. My rigger Dave Thompson > suggested that over time the all plastic "halyard top cap" been cut into by > the halyard, creating almost a clam cleat. CDI has a newly designed top cap > with a sheave for $68. A new halyard is $64. And a new "ball bearing" > bearing (BB2) for $138, which Dave strongly recommends. > Has anyone had experience with these upgrades or alternatives? > > > > > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ ------------------------------ Message: 21 Date: Fri, 10 Apr 2020 18:26:30 +0000 From: Eric Igl To: "rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org" Subject: [Rhodes22-list] 1992 R22 for sale Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Just a heads up. Now until Sunday I would except $5,500. After this weekend price is back to original for spring. Sent from my iPhone ------------------------------ Message: 22 Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2020 03:39:50 -0700 (MST) From: JeffSmith To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] CDI FF2 Upgrades Message-ID: <1586601590495-0.post at n5.nabble.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Hi Jay, Thanks for the input. I'm going to start out with the 170 and see how that works, but have a 130 that needs a sun cover and a North racing sail from a Catalina 22 which needs luff tape. Yes Dave Thompson @ Cedar Creek. We have been working together for 25 years since he was in South Amboy. He's the best! Do you race your boat? ----- Jeff Smith 2009 R22 #101 RADIANT Atlantic Highlands Municpal Harbor Atlantic Highlands, NJ -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ ------------------------------ Message: 23 Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2020 08:40:12 -0400 From: JAY FRIEDLAND To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] CDI FF2 Upgrades Message-ID: <1D5838E9-892A-4240-B9D0-CCE5C64D973E at verizon.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 Jeff, I haven?t raced, but I?m good crew, if you need. Used to crew on R19s near Riverside on Delaware River. I?m further south, Long Beach Island, if you?re ever in the area. Hoping to get my boat in early May. Good luck w/ your headsails. Jay > On Apr 11, 2020, at 6:39 AM, JeffSmith wrote: > > Hi Jay, > Thanks for the input. I'm going to start out with the 170 and see how that > works, but have a 130 that needs a sun cover and a North racing sail from a > Catalina 22 which needs luff tape. > Yes Dave Thompson @ Cedar Creek. We have been working together for 25 years > since he was in South Amboy. He's the best! > Do you race your boat? > > > > ----- > Jeff Smith > 2009 R22 #101 RADIANT > Atlantic Highlands Municpal Harbor > Atlantic Highlands, NJ > > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ ------------------------------ Message: 24 Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2020 13:08:10 +0000 From: Eric Igl To: "rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org" Subject: [Rhodes22-list] V-Berth Board materials Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" You could just buy my boat Brian. 1991. $5,500 ready to sail. Needs minimal elbow grease to bring back to pristine. Sent from my iPhone ------------------------------ Message: 25 Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2020 06:16:34 -0700 (MST) From: HudsonValleyRhodes To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] V-Berth Board materials Message-ID: <1586610994523-0.post at n5.nabble.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 You could just buy my ?91. Tada! You?d have a newer boat just like that. -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ ------------------------------ Message: 26 Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2020 06:34:57 -0700 (MST) From: NewIn76 To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] V-Berth Board materials Message-ID: <1586612097634-0.post at n5.nabble.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Yes, I know. Believe me, I had/have thought of that. ----- Brian 1976 Rhodes 22 Cleveland -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ ------------------------------ Message: 27 Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2020 06:50:15 -0700 (MST) From: HudsonValleyRhodes To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] V-Berth Board materials Message-ID: <1586613015844-0.post at n5.nabble.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii $5,500. I need a new truck and you need a newer Rhodes. Sounds like providence. -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ ------------------------------ Message: 28 Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2020 10:05:55 -0400 From: Michael Weisner To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] V-Berth Board materials Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 Eric,Enough already! We get the message.Mikes/v WindLass ('91) $5,500.? I need a new truck and you need a newer Rhodes. Sounds likeprovidence.? ------------------------------ Message: 29 Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2020 07:42:10 -0700 (MST) From: HudsonValleyRhodes To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] V-Berth Board materials Message-ID: <1586616130320-0.post at n5.nabble.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 ????? -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ ------------------------------ Message: 30 Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2020 18:31:08 -0400 From: Chris Geankoplis To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] V-Berth Board materials Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8" Great price. I can?t afford the boat and the cost of the divorce lawyer simultaneously. (Grin) Chris Geankoplis ENOSIS On Sat, 11 Apr 2020 at 09:08, Eric Igl wrote: > You could just buy my boat Brian. 1991. $5,500 ready to sail. Needs > minimal elbow grease to bring back to pristine. > > Sent from my iPhone > ------------------------------ Message: 31 Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2020 12:24:15 -0400 From: Sara Oppenheim To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: [Rhodes22-list] mast hoist available in Delaware Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8" Hi Rhodes people-- We no longer have our Rhodes, but during a shelter-in-place cleaning frenzy I realized that we DO still have our mast hoist. The hoist is in Northern Delaware. If any Northeast Rhodie would like to have it, drop me a line at saraoppenheim at gmail.com. I realize no one wants to come foraging now, but if I know someone wants it I'm willing to store it for awhile. Best wishes to all of you! Sara ------------------------------ Subject: Digest Footer _______________________________________________ Rhodes22-list mailing list Rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org http://rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list ------------------------------ End of Rhodes22-list Digest, Vol 4180, Issue 1 ********************************************** From joedempsey at hughes.net Mon Apr 13 13:55:11 2020 From: joedempsey at hughes.net (Joe Dempsey) Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2020 10:55:11 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchor stowage In-Reply-To: <1586390407358-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1586390407358-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <1586800511254-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Alex, I cut some 2 x 4 blocks and beveled to match slope of hull in lazarette to make level, treated them with come "Cuprinol" wood preservative and set them in some silicone adhesive in the laz. I placed 1 X 10 planks across the stringers making a nice shelf. I keep all sorts of gear down there including my lunch hook and rode. I was going to hinge the planks, but so far they've remained stable with no problem. I can get underneath them easily to get to my chartplotter/sounder transducer, also set in clear silicone adhesive. Sorry, don't have a photo. ----- Joe Dempsey s/v Respite Rhodes 22 1989/2005 Deltaville,VA -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From joedempsey at hughes.net Mon Apr 13 13:58:51 2020 From: joedempsey at hughes.net (Joe Dempsey) Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2020 10:58:51 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Rhodes22-list Digest, Vol 4180, Issue 1 In-Reply-To: <017501d611ba$97e82110$c7b86330$@hughes.net> References: <017501d611ba$97e82110$c7b86330$@hughes.net> Message-ID: <1586800731975-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Sorry, the below was a reply to Peter Nyberg's "Silverheels" story from the E-mail and not from The List site. Still learning this system! ----- Joe Dempsey s/v Respite Rhodes 22 1989/2005 Deltaville,VA -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From rodellner at mac.com Mon Apr 13 15:04:44 2020 From: rodellner at mac.com (Rod Ellner) Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2020 14:04:44 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchor stowage In-Reply-To: <1586800511254-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1586800511254-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <2DCAC1DE-6C39-4BA3-88E5-2C12665CCB2C@mac.com> I removed the triangular tray rode locker and replaced it with a 3 gallon plastic bucket. I cut a piece of plywood and cut a hole in it so the bucket would fit in it. The rode belays better than the flat tray. I also had a 22pound navy anchor in a basket, under the seat,(either side). That was my emergency anchor. With the anchor being that heavy I could throw it overboard and then walk the rode to the bow and cleat it off. The would set itself. I had a snap eye at the bow that I would snap over the rode. That would put the bow directly into the wind. I hope this helps someone. Sold my boat last year. Sent from my iPhone > On Apr 13, 2020, at 12:55 PM, Joe Dempsey wrote: > > ?Alex, > I cut some 2 x 4 blocks and beveled to match slope of hull in lazarette to > make level, treated them with come "Cuprinol" wood preservative and set them > in some silicone adhesive in the laz. I placed 1 X 10 planks across the > stringers making a nice shelf. I keep all sorts of gear down there including > my lunch hook and rode. I was going to hinge the planks, but so far they've > remained stable with no problem. I can get underneath them easily to get to > my chartplotter/sounder transducer, also set in clear silicone adhesive. > Sorry, don't have a photo. > > > > ----- > Joe Dempsey > s/v Respite > Rhodes 22 1989/2005 > Deltaville,VA > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From joedempsey at hughes.net Mon Apr 13 15:18:04 2020 From: joedempsey at hughes.net (Joe Dempsey) Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2020 12:18:04 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] IMF anchor light installation In-Reply-To: References: <62090A2A-CB27-481E-9D1C-563EA2740FC6@sunnybeeches.com> <1586186545771-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <1586805484634-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Cary, There is plenty of surface inside the mast to fasten the cap to. You will most likely have to plug rivet holes and drill new ones to line up with the inner surface. I can't remember what size tap screws I used, but most likely they were #10 or #12. It's easy enough to figure out. I used stainless but should use either brass or aluminum I think since plate i think is aluminum. SS and aluminum is supposed to be a no-no. Hope this helps. ----- Joe Dempsey s/v Respite Rhodes 22 1989/2005 Deltaville,VA -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From joedempsey at hughes.net Mon Apr 13 15:30:54 2020 From: joedempsey at hughes.net (Joe Dempsey) Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2020 12:30:54 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Reading Email Message-ID: <1586806254219-0.post@n5.nabble.com> What is it that causes ?all of the question marks? in the Rhodes Mailing List emails? It's awfully annoying. ----- Joe Dempsey s/v Respite Rhodes 22 1989/2005 Deltaville,VA -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From cjbrooke at ymail.com Mon Apr 13 16:05:14 2020 From: cjbrooke at ymail.com (Cheryl Brooke) Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2020 14:05:14 -0600 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Reading Email In-Reply-To: <1586806254219-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1586806254219-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <1F118789-33C6-4968-8EB9-BB53ADB1FE36@ymail.com> I?d like to be off the mailing list. Sent from my iPhone > On Apr 13, 2020, at 1:30 PM, Joe Dempsey wrote: > > What is it that causes ?all of the question marks? in the Rhodes Mailing List > emails? It's awfully annoying. > > > > ----- > Joe Dempsey > s/v Respite > Rhodes 22 1989/2005 > Deltaville,VA > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From mweisner at ebsmed.com Mon Apr 13 16:28:08 2020 From: mweisner at ebsmed.com (Michael D. Weisner) Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2020 16:28:08 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Reading Email In-Reply-To: <1F118789-33C6-4968-8EB9-BB53ADB1FE36@ymail.com> References: <1586806254219-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1F118789-33C6-4968-8EB9-BB53ADB1FE36@ymail.com> Message-ID: <004601d611d2$0cb681a0$262384e0$@ebsmed.com> While we hate to see you go ... To unsubscribe: 1. Visit the following webpage: http://rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list 2. Near the bottom of the page, in the section "Rhodes22-list Subscribers", enter your email address in the last box click the "Unsubscribe or edit options" button adjacent to the box. Mike s/v Wind Lass ('91) Nissequogue River, NY I?d rather be sailing :~) -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of Cheryl Brooke via Rhodes22-list Sent: Monday, April 13, 2020 4:05 PM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Reading Email I?d like to be off the mailing list. Sent from my iPhone > On Apr 13, 2020, at 1:30 PM, Joe Dempsey wrote: > > What is it that causes ?all of the question marks? in the Rhodes > Mailing List emails? It's awfully annoying. > > > > ----- > Joe Dempsey > s/v Respite > Rhodes 22 1989/2005 > Deltaville,VA > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From peter at sunnybeeches.com Mon Apr 13 16:27:28 2020 From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg) Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2020 16:27:28 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Reading Email In-Reply-To: <1F118789-33C6-4968-8EB9-BB53ADB1FE36@ymail.com> References: <1586806254219-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1F118789-33C6-4968-8EB9-BB53ADB1FE36@ymail.com> Message-ID: <0A52D01E-0B3B-4B0E-B4BA-87FBA4332086@sunnybeeches.com> Cheryl, To unsubscribe, go to the bottom of this page: http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list ?Peter > On Apr 13, 2020, at 4:05 PM, Cheryl Brooke via Rhodes22-list wrote: > > I?d like to be off the mailing list. > > Sent from my iPhone > From bferguson at jcu.edu Mon Apr 13 16:52:26 2020 From: bferguson at jcu.edu (NewIn76) Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2020 13:52:26 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Triad Trailer length Message-ID: <1586811146850-0.post@n5.nabble.com> I refuse to start another thread that compares single vs. tandem axle. I think that horse has beaten into glue at this point. Thanks to this list (and Steve Congdon) I found a nearby trailer that I intend to upgrade from the existing single 3500 lb axle. Upgrading to a 5200 or 6000 lb axle means the fender will need to be replaced. However, referring back to my subject line, is there any difference in overall length between a single and a tandem axle trailer? I understand the hitch weight measurements will need to be re-calculated, but would I realistically have space to put on a tandem fender before the axle curves towards the coupler? I won't always be in Cleveland (thanks Uncle Sam), so I am still undecided on the final axle plan. (I am sincerely to hold back the flood of tandem v. single axle comments. Haha ) ----- Brian 1976 Rhodes 22 Cleveland -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From peter at sunnybeeches.com Mon Apr 13 17:43:52 2020 From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg) Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2020 17:43:52 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Triad Trailer length In-Reply-To: <1586811146850-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1586811146850-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <2969C464-1880-4363-8C1D-59E11EE87ABD@sunnybeeches.com> I could measure my tandem axle trailer tomorrow, though it would be much easier if that darn boat wasn?t sitting on it. Perhaps someone else would take a measurement of a single axle trailer. I assume that the forward end of the measurement should start at the hitch, but I?m not sure about the other end. I think the point on the trailer furthest from the hitch would be the aft end of one of the bunks (I think that?s the term; the carpet covered things the hull of the boat rests against). Is that what you?re looking for? Peter Nyberg Coventry, CT s/v Silverheels (1988/2016) > On Apr 13, 2020, at 4:52 PM, NewIn76 via Rhodes22-list wrote: > > I refuse to start another thread that compares single vs. tandem axle. I > think that horse has beaten into glue at this point. Thanks to this list > (and Steve Congdon) I found a nearby trailer that I intend to upgrade from > the existing single 3500 lb axle. Upgrading to a 5200 or 6000 lb axle means > the fender will need to be replaced. However, referring back to my subject > line, is there any difference in overall length between a single and a > tandem axle trailer? I understand the hitch weight measurements will need > to be re-calculated, but would I realistically have space to put on a tandem > fender before the axle curves towards the coupler? I won't always be in > Cleveland (thanks Uncle Sam), so I am still undecided on the final axle > plan. (I am sincerely to hold back the flood of tandem v. single axle > comments. Haha ) > > > > ----- > Brian > 1976 Rhodes 22 > Cleveland > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From bferguson at jcu.edu Mon Apr 13 18:12:57 2020 From: bferguson at jcu.edu (NewIn76) Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2020 15:12:57 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Triad Trailer length In-Reply-To: <2969C464-1880-4363-8C1D-59E11EE87ABD@sunnybeeches.com> References: <1586811146850-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <2969C464-1880-4363-8C1D-59E11EE87ABD@sunnybeeches.com> Message-ID: <1586815977324-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Peter, I think the rear measurement is to intersection of the metal vertical post that holds the bunk board with the rear of the centering channel. So basically not to the end of the board itself. I asked Triad the same question. I'm kind of curious if when they build it, it is just case of adding one axle or two during production or if the tandem axle trailer is built on a slightly longer frame to account for the additional axle. ----- Brian 1976 Rhodes 22 Cleveland -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From rodellner at mac.com Mon Apr 13 19:47:16 2020 From: rodellner at mac.com (Rod Ellner) Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2020 18:47:16 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] IMF anchor light installation In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <76EF2E25-3AAD-403B-B737-A5D906C478D9@mac.com> Poprivits? Sent from my iPhone > On Apr 6, 2020, at 9:21 AM, Cary Tolbert wrote: > > ?Stephen, I do recall the three wire discussion on the list. It seems my > most difficult part may be removing the top plate with the rivets. > If I am successful in removing the top plate how do I get it attached back > on the mast. To me rivets say, I am intended to be permanently attached and > NO ACCESS HERE. Is there a way to remove the top plate and the real > question I guess is,how would it be re attached? > Cary Tolbert > S/V Whisper '86 > > >> On Mon, Apr 6, 2020 at 10:02 AM Stephen Staum wrote: >> >> If you look in the archives I think someone detailed how to wire both >> lights with a 3 wire connection. The wires run in a separate chamber in >> the IMF mast so a stiff wire should allow you to pull your anchor light >> wire through the length of the mast. >> >> >> *Stephen Staum* >> *s/v Carol Lee 2* >> >> *Needham, MA* >> >> >> On Mon, Apr 6, 2020 at 9:48 AM Peter Nyberg >> wrote: >> >>> Cory, >>> >>> The top plate on my IMF mast is held on by a couple of screws. I plan on >>> taking the cover off my boat today or tomorrow, and I?ll try to take a >>> picture of my top plate. >>> >>> When I got my boat, it had wires running up the mast for a steaming light >>> and the VHF antenna. When I replaced one, I used the existing wire to >> pull >>> the new wire through. If you currently have no wires, I?m not sure what >>> the best way to get started would be. I doubt that you could just push a >>> wire through, but I could be wrong, so it would be worth a try. The only >>> other thought that comes to mind would be a weight tied to a string >> started >>> into the channel at the top of the mast, and then raise the mast and let >>> gravity do the work. >>> >>> My only other advise would be to run a wire with three conductors, so >> that >>> you could potentially power both a steaming light and an anchor light. >>> >>> Peter Nyberg >>> Coventry, CT >>> s/v Silverheels (1988/2016) >>> >>>> On Apr 5, 2020, at 9:11 PM, Cary Tolbert >> wrote: >>>> >>>> Has anyone installed an anchor light on an Inter Furling Mast. I >> checked >>>> the top plate on the mast and found it to be attached with three >> rivets. >>>> Can you remove the plate and how would you replace the top plate? If >> you >>>> have successfully accomplished this task also advise what difficulty is >>>> involved in running the wire through the mast. 26 feet is a long way to >>>> push wiring. >>>> I am amazed that this would not be standard equipment on the Rhodes 22. >>>> This boat is marketed as a small day sailor suitable for overnight >>> cruising. >>>> Just my thought. >>>> Any help with this problem will be greatly appreciated. >>>> Thanks! >>>> Cary Tolbert >>>> S/V Whisper '86 >>> >>> >> From mike at traildesign.com Mon Apr 13 20:24:27 2020 From: mike at traildesign.com (Mike Riter) Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2020 20:24:27 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Triad Trailer length In-Reply-To: <1586815977324-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1586811146850-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <2969C464-1880-4363-8C1D-59E11EE87ABD@sunnybeeches.com> <1586815977324-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: I went out in the shop and measured my single axle Triad. From the front of the coupler straight back through the frame to the port side vertical post is 21' 9". Michael Riter SV Emma B On Mon, Apr 13, 2020 at 6:12 PM NewIn76 via Rhodes22-list < rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote: > Peter, > I think the rear measurement is to intersection of the metal vertical post > that holds the bunk board with the rear of the centering channel. So > basically not to the end of the board itself. I asked Triad the same > question. I'm kind of curious if when they build it, it is just case of > adding one axle or two during production or if the tandem axle trailer is > built on a slightly longer frame to account for the additional axle. > > > > ----- > Brian > 1976 Rhodes 22 > Cleveland > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > From shawn.sustain at gmail.com Tue Apr 14 02:10:40 2020 From: shawn.sustain at gmail.com (Shawn Boles) Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2020 23:10:40 -0700 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchor stowage In-Reply-To: <2DCAC1DE-6C39-4BA3-88E5-2C12665CCB2C@mac.com> References: <1586800511254-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <2DCAC1DE-6C39-4BA3-88E5-2C12665CCB2C@mac.com> Message-ID: Hi Rod: Do you have picture/description of bow snap eye setup for centering rode? Cheers, Shawn Shawn On Mon, Apr 13, 2020, 12:04 PM Rod Ellner via Rhodes22-list < rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote: > I removed the triangular tray rode locker and replaced it with a 3 gallon > plastic bucket. I cut a piece of plywood and cut a hole in it so the bucket > would fit in it. The rode belays better than the flat tray. > I also had a 22pound navy anchor in a basket, under the seat,(either > side). That was my emergency anchor. With the anchor being that heavy I > could throw it overboard and then walk the rode to the bow and cleat it > off. The would set itself. I had a snap eye at the bow that I would snap > over the rode. That would put the bow directly into the wind. > I hope this helps someone. Sold my boat last year. > > Sent from my iPhone > > > On Apr 13, 2020, at 12:55 PM, Joe Dempsey wrote: > > > > ?Alex, > > I cut some 2 x 4 blocks and beveled to match slope of hull in lazarette > to > > make level, treated them with come "Cuprinol" wood preservative and set > them > > in some silicone adhesive in the laz. I placed 1 X 10 planks across the > > stringers making a nice shelf. I keep all sorts of gear down there > including > > my lunch hook and rode. I was going to hinge the planks, but so far > they've > > remained stable with no problem. I can get underneath them easily to get > to > > my chartplotter/sounder transducer, also set in clear silicone adhesive. > > Sorry, don't have a photo. > > > > > > > > ----- > > Joe Dempsey > > s/v Respite > > Rhodes 22 1989/2005 > > Deltaville,VA > > -- > > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > From roger_pihlaja at msn.com Tue Apr 14 12:45:06 2020 From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA) Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2020 16:45:06 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Triad Trailer length In-Reply-To: <1586811146850-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1586811146850-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: Brian, My Lil Dude trailer is a tandem axle. On my trailer, each axle is supported by separate leaf springs. So, you should measure the length of your current leaf springs and then check if there is room on the trailer frame for another set of springs. You will probably find the only way it is possible is if the existing springs are moved aft as far as possible. Remember to leave sufficient space between the axles for tire clearance. The further aft you locate the axles, the greater your tongue weight will be. This will be good for high speed anti sway stability. 10-15% of total trailer + boat weight on the tongue is considered a good rule of thumb in order to have stability. Roger Pihlaja S/V Dynamic Equilibrium Sent from my iPhone > On Apr 13, 2020, at 4:52 PM, NewIn76 via Rhodes22-list wrote: > > ?I refuse to start another thread that compares single vs. tandem axle. I > think that horse has beaten into glue at this point. Thanks to this list > (and Steve Congdon) I found a nearby trailer that I intend to upgrade from > the existing single 3500 lb axle. Upgrading to a 5200 or 6000 lb axle means > the fender will need to be replaced. However, referring back to my subject > line, is there any difference in overall length between a single and a > tandem axle trailer? I understand the hitch weight measurements will need > to be re-calculated, but would I realistically have space to put on a tandem > fender before the axle curves towards the coupler? I won't always be in > Cleveland (thanks Uncle Sam), so I am still undecided on the final axle > plan. (I am sincerely to hold back the flood of tandem v. single axle > comments. Haha ) > > > > ----- > Brian > 1976 Rhodes 22 > Cleveland > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From peter at sunnybeeches.com Tue Apr 14 13:53:07 2020 From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg) Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2020 13:53:07 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Triad Trailer length In-Reply-To: References: <1586811146850-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <2969C464-1880-4363-8C1D-59E11EE87ABD@sunnybeeches.com> <1586815977324-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <0955D2A4-3528-4375-B170-5D99AE8E4EC8@sunnybeeches.com> The measurement on my dual axle Triad was the same; 21? 9? from the front edge of the coupler to the back edge of the port rear-most upright. As to which is the best number of axles, if you launch your boat with the trailer strapped to the hull, the four tires of the dual will give you almost twice the buoyancy of the two tires of the single. (Not quite twice, because I think the dual axle comes with slightly smaller tires.) Peter Nyberg Coventry, CT s/v Silverheels (1988/2016) > On Apr 13, 2020, at 8:24 PM, Mike Riter wrote: > > I went out in the shop and measured my single axle Triad. From the front of > the coupler straight back through the frame to the port side vertical post > is 21' 9". > > Michael Riter > SV Emma B > > > > On Mon, Apr 13, 2020 at 6:12 PM NewIn76 via Rhodes22-list < > rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote: > >> Peter, >> I think the rear measurement is to intersection of the metal vertical post >> that holds the bunk board with the rear of the centering channel. So >> basically not to the end of the board itself. I asked Triad the same >> question. I'm kind of curious if when they build it, it is just case of >> adding one axle or two during production or if the tandem axle trailer is >> built on a slightly longer frame to account for the additional axle. >> >> >> >> ----- >> Brian >> 1976 Rhodes 22 >> Cleveland >> -- >> Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ >> From bferguson at jcu.edu Tue Apr 14 15:06:11 2020 From: bferguson at jcu.edu (NewIn76) Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2020 12:06:11 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Triad Trailer length In-Reply-To: <0955D2A4-3528-4375-B170-5D99AE8E4EC8@sunnybeeches.com> References: <1586811146850-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <2969C464-1880-4363-8C1D-59E11EE87ABD@sunnybeeches.com> <1586815977324-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <0955D2A4-3528-4375-B170-5D99AE8E4EC8@sunnybeeches.com> Message-ID: <1586891171531-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Roger and Peter, Thanks. Peter, no, I won't be sailing the trailer with the boat. I did see that on another thread. I was going to use leaf spring sliders unless Da List disagrees. I had another trailer with that setup and it worked well especially when it came to fine tuning the tongue weight. https://www.boattrailerparts.com/Boat-Trailer-Leaf-Spring-Slider-Tandem-Axle-PAIR-For-25-14-Double-Eye-Springs_p_1394.html ----- Brian 1976 Rhodes 22 Cleveland -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From cjlowe at sssnet.com Tue Apr 14 20:26:19 2020 From: cjlowe at sssnet.com (cjlowe at sssnet.com) Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2020 20:26:19 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Triad Trailer length In-Reply-To: <1586891171531-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1586811146850-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <2969C464-1880-4363-8C1D-59E11EE87ABD@sunnybeeches.com> <1586815977324-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <0955D2A4-3528-4375-B170-5D99AE8E4EC8@sunnybeeches.com> <1586891171531-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <53428.24.140.30.102.1586910379.squirrel@quickpop.sssnet.com> Brian, You can come down to Wooster and have a look and take measurements of my double axel triad if you want. Let me know . Jerry Lowe Roger and Peter, > > Thanks. Peter, no, I won't be sailing the trailer with the boat. I did > see > that on another thread. I was going to use leaf spring sliders unless Da > List disagrees. I had another trailer with that setup and it worked well > especially when it came to fine tuning the tongue weight. > > https://www.boattrailerparts.com/Boat-Trailer-Leaf-Spring-Slider-Tandem-Axle-PAIR-For-25-14-Double-Eye-Springs_p_1394.html > > > > ----- > Brian > 1976 Rhodes 22 > Cleveland > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > From jose.faraldo at gmail.com Wed Apr 15 13:28:01 2020 From: jose.faraldo at gmail.com (jose) Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2020 10:28:01 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Shroud extenders Message-ID: <1586971681099-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Hi all Can anyone let me know what?s the total length of the shroud extenders used while raising the mast with the GB hoist system? Thanks - and keep safe! Jose -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From sloopblueheron at gmail.com Wed Apr 15 14:34:34 2020 From: sloopblueheron at gmail.com (Rick Lange) Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2020 14:34:34 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Shroud extenders In-Reply-To: <1586971681099-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1586971681099-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: Jose, Cut them to length when the mast is lying in the crotch while attached to the tabernacle. Regards, Rick Lange On Wed, Apr 15, 2020 at 1:28 PM jose wrote: > Hi all > > Can anyone let me know what?s the total length of the shroud extenders used > while raising the mast with the GB hoist system? > > Thanks - and keep safe! > > Jose > > > > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > From mike at traildesign.com Wed Apr 15 15:15:35 2020 From: mike at traildesign.com (Mike Riter) Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2020 15:15:35 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Shroud extenders In-Reply-To: References: <1586971681099-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: Jose. Mine are 12" (each) end to end including the 2 clips attached to either end of the chain. Michael Riter SV Emma B On Wed, Apr 15, 2020 at 2:35 PM Rick Lange wrote: > Jose, > > Cut them to length when the mast is lying in the crotch while attached to > the tabernacle. > > Regards, > > Rick Lange > > > On Wed, Apr 15, 2020 at 1:28 PM jose wrote: > > > Hi all > > > > Can anyone let me know what?s the total length of the shroud extenders > used > > while raising the mast with the GB hoist system? > > > > Thanks - and keep safe! > > > > Jose > > > > > > > > -- > > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > > > From roger_pihlaja at msn.com Thu Apr 16 09:34:28 2020 From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA) Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2020 13:34:28 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Shroud extenders In-Reply-To: <1586971681099-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1586971681099-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: Jose, My shroud extenders are made from aluminum bar stock 13? L x 1? W x 1/4? T. Both ends are rounded off with 1/2? R arcs. In other words, both ends look like a half circle. Both ends have 3/8? ID holes drilled thru them. The centers of these holes are located on the centerline and 1/2? from each end. All of the sharp edges have been broken. Hopefully, this answers your question. Roger Pihlaja S/V Dynamic Equilibrium Sent from my iPhone > On Apr 15, 2020, at 1:28 PM, jose wrote: > > ?Hi all > > Can anyone let me know what?s the total length of the shroud extenders used > while raising the mast with the GB hoist system? > > Thanks - and keep safe! > > Jose > > > > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From michael.4591 at gmail.com Thu Apr 16 12:14:01 2020 From: michael.4591 at gmail.com (Michael Corley) Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2020 12:14:01 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Shroud extenders In-Reply-To: References: <1586971681099-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: Just want to clarify for my edification. When raising the mast, the forward shrouds with extenders attached should be taught when mast is in down position resting in the crutch? Mike S/V Ranger Hampton Roads On Thu, Apr 16, 2020 at 9:34 AM ROGER PIHLAJA wrote: > Jose, > > My shroud extenders are made from aluminum bar stock 13? L x 1? W x 1/4? > T. Both ends are rounded off with 1/2? R arcs. In other words, both ends > look like a half circle. Both ends have 3/8? ID holes drilled thru them. > The centers of these holes are located on the centerline and 1/2? from each > end. All of the sharp edges have been broken. Hopefully, this answers > your question. > > Roger Pihlaja > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium > > Sent from my iPhone > > > On Apr 15, 2020, at 1:28 PM, jose wrote: > > > > ?Hi all > > > > Can anyone let me know what?s the total length of the shroud extenders > used > > while raising the mast with the GB hoist system? > > > > Thanks - and keep safe! > > > > Jose > > > > > > > > -- > > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > From roger_pihlaja at msn.com Thu Apr 16 13:15:23 2020 From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA) Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2020 17:15:23 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Shroud extenders In-Reply-To: References: <1586971681099-0.post@n5.nabble.com> , Message-ID: Mike, No! On S/V Dynamic Equilibrium, the aft lower sidestays, the upper sidestays remain, and the double backstays attached to their respective chainplates. You must be careful none of them are tangled and not fouled on anything. S/V Dynamic Equilibrium?s remote engine control levers seem to be irresistibly attacted to getting fouled by the port side backstay and I have to keep an eye on them throughout the entire mast stepping process! When the mast is in the down position resting in the crutch and attached to the mast tabernacle, it is ready to be stepped. The extenders are attached to the bottom of the forward lower sidestays (below the turnbuckles) and then to the gin pole mast raising device. The gin pole should be essentially perpendicular to the deck and the line from the winch on the gin pole runs to one of the bow docking cleats. Be certain you can tie a secure cleat knot on this line. Or, even better, tie a loop with a bowline knot and then thread this loop thru the center hole in the cleat and then around the horns of the cleat. When the mast has been stepped, unhook one of the extenders from the gin pole and attach that forward lower sidestay to its chainplate. Then, do the same with the other forward lower sidestay. Then, attach the forestay to its chainplate. Finally, unrig and remove the gin pole mast raising device. Roger Pihlaja S/V Dynamic Equilibrium Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Michael Corley Sent: Thursday, April 16, 2020 12:14 PM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Shroud extenders Just want to clarify for my edification. When raising the mast, the forward shrouds with extenders attached should be taught when mast is in down position resting in the crutch? Mike S/V Ranger Hampton Roads On Thu, Apr 16, 2020 at 9:34 AM ROGER PIHLAJA wrote: > Jose, > > My shroud extenders are made from aluminum bar stock 13? L x 1? W x 1/4? > T. Both ends are rounded off with 1/2? R arcs. In other words, both ends > look like a half circle. Both ends have 3/8? ID holes drilled thru them. > The centers of these holes are located on the centerline and 1/2? from each > end. All of the sharp edges have been broken. Hopefully, this answers > your question. > > Roger Pihlaja > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium > > Sent from my iPhone > > > On Apr 15, 2020, at 1:28 PM, jose wrote: > > > > ?Hi all > > > > Can anyone let me know what?s the total length of the shroud extenders > used > > while raising the mast with the GB hoist system? > > > > Thanks - and keep safe! > > > > Jose > > > > > > > > -- > > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > From stan at generalboats.com Thu Apr 16 14:02:17 2020 From: stan at generalboats.com (stan) Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2020 14:02:17 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Mast Hoist Instructions booklet In-Reply-To: References: <1586971681099-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <07db6f5b-b1c0-7399-1e92-df8f8ce8ce6a@generalboats.com> Dear Mr. Corley, If you lost your Mast Hoist instruction booklet, please be advised that as a default ROC member you are entitled to two more free copies and thereafter as many as you wish at $100 a copy; until it becomes more economical to purchase another mast hoist system as they come with the instructions, warnings and all that good stuff included. You second free copy is on its way as an attachment to your email address. From Iglesiaseric2431 at outlook.com Sat Apr 18 09:38:52 2020 From: Iglesiaseric2431 at outlook.com (HudsonValleyRhodes) Date: Sat, 18 Apr 2020 06:38:52 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] 1991 R22 FOR SALE In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1587217132999-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Officially reduced to $5,000 with trailer. No motor. Will not let go for less than 5k. Boat is in really good condition. Ask me for more pictures. -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From seanallen1206 at gmail.com Sat Apr 18 12:54:35 2020 From: seanallen1206 at gmail.com (Sean Allen) Date: Sat, 18 Apr 2020 12:54:35 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Rhode 22 Mast Bolt Dimensions Message-ID: Does anyone know the length and diameter for the mast bolt? I seem to have misplaced it after unstepping it last season. Thanks! Sean From mike at traildesign.com Sat Apr 18 13:25:55 2020 From: mike at traildesign.com (Mike Riter) Date: Sat, 18 Apr 2020 13:25:55 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Rhode 22 Mast Bolt Dimensions In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Mine it 4.25" long x 3/8" diameter. If I were buying a new one I would go with 4" as it's a bit long. Don't forget it's stainless steel. Michael Riter SV Emma B On Sat, Apr 18, 2020 at 12:54 PM Sean Allen wrote: > Does anyone know the length and diameter for the mast bolt? I seem to have > misplaced it after unstepping it last season. > > Thanks! > Sean > From seanallen1206 at gmail.com Sat Apr 18 13:32:30 2020 From: seanallen1206 at gmail.com (Sean Allen) Date: Sat, 18 Apr 2020 13:32:30 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Rhode 22 Mast Bolt Dimensions In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Thanks Mike! On Sat, Apr 18, 2020 at 1:26 PM Mike Riter wrote: > Mine it 4.25" long x 3/8" diameter. If I were buying a new one I would go > with 4" as it's a bit long. Don't forget it's stainless steel. > > Michael Riter > SV Emma B > > > > > On Sat, Apr 18, 2020 at 12:54 PM Sean Allen > wrote: > > > Does anyone know the length and diameter for the mast bolt? I seem to > have > > misplaced it after unstepping it last season. > > > > Thanks! > > Sean > > > From mweisner at ebsmed.com Sat Apr 18 13:34:18 2020 From: mweisner at ebsmed.com (Michael D. Weisner) Date: Sat, 18 Apr 2020 13:34:18 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Rhode 22 Mast Bolt Dimensions In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000001d615a7$979870c0$c6c95240$@ebsmed.com> Sean, From memory, the bolt sticks out about 1" beyond the mast tabernacle. This should establish the rough length that you need. The hole in the mast should establish the diameter. Refer to the attached bolt sizes chart. Don?t forget to use an "aircraft" style fastener (nut) with the nylon insert. Mike s/v Windlass ('91) Nissequogue River, NY -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of Sean Allen Sent: Saturday, April 18, 2020 12:55 PM To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Rhode 22 Mast Bolt Dimensions Does anyone know the length and diameter for the mast bolt? I seem to have misplaced it after unstepping it last season. Thanks! Sean -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: US-Hex-Bolt-Sizes.pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 1107212 bytes Desc: not available URL: From peter at sunnybeeches.com Sat Apr 18 15:21:59 2020 From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg) Date: Sat, 18 Apr 2020 15:21:59 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] What Nut for the Tabernacle Bolt? In-Reply-To: <000001d615a7$979870c0$c6c95240$@ebsmed.com> References: <000001d615a7$979870c0$c6c95240$@ebsmed.com> Message-ID: Now there?s an interesting rigging detail for a snowy day in April? Using a nylock nut for the mast tabernacle bolt as Mike suggests would seem like a prudent choice. But my boat, after its recycling trip through the General Boats plant in 2016, was outfitted with a wing nut on that bolt. It never occurred to me to question the appropriateness of this. I?ve never had it loosen up on it?s own. When it?s tightened, it compresses the sides of the tabernacle a bit, which keeps it under constant tension. Maybe that tension is acting like a lock-washer. What do others have: nylock nut, wing nut, or something else? Peter Nyberg Coventry, CT s/v Silverheels (1988/2016) > On Apr 18, 2020, at 1:34 PM, Michael D. Weisner wrote: > > Sean, > > From memory, the bolt sticks out about 1" beyond the mast tabernacle. This should establish the rough length that you need. > > The hole in the mast should establish the diameter. Refer to the attached bolt sizes chart. > > Don?t forget to use an "aircraft" style fastener (nut) with the nylon insert. > > Mike > s/v Windlass ('91) > Nissequogue River, NY > From rweiss at siu.edu Sat Apr 18 15:40:45 2020 From: rweiss at siu.edu (Weiss, Robert L) Date: Sat, 18 Apr 2020 19:40:45 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] What Nut for the Tabernacle Bolt? In-Reply-To: References: <000001d615a7$979870c0$c6c95240$@ebsmed.com>, Message-ID: My 2014 Recycled Rhodes also has a wing nut there. Robert L. Weiss Jr. Director of Music First United Methodist Carbondale IL Professor Emeritus, SIUC ________________________________ From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of Peter Nyberg Sent: Saturday, April 18, 2020 2:21:59 PM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: [Rhodes22-list] What Nut for the Tabernacle Bolt? [EXTERNAL EMAIL ALERT]: Verify sender before opening links or attachments. Now there?s an interesting rigging detail for a snowy day in April? Using a nylock nut for the mast tabernacle bolt as Mike suggests would seem like a prudent choice. But my boat, after its recycling trip through the General Boats plant in 2016, was outfitted with a wing nut on that bolt. It never occurred to me to question the appropriateness of this. I?ve never had it loosen up on it?s own. When it?s tightened, it compresses the sides of the tabernacle a bit, which keeps it under constant tension. Maybe that tension is acting like a lock-washer. What do others have: nylock nut, wing nut, or something else? Peter Nyberg Coventry, CT s/v Silverheels (1988/2016) > On Apr 18, 2020, at 1:34 PM, Michael D. Weisner wrote: > > Sean, > > From memory, the bolt sticks out about 1" beyond the mast tabernacle. This should establish the rough length that you need. > > The hole in the mast should establish the diameter. Refer to the attached bolt sizes chart. > > Don?t forget to use an "aircraft" style fastener (nut) with the nylon insert. > > Mike > s/v Windlass ('91) > Nissequogue River, NY > From sloopblueheron at gmail.com Sat Apr 18 16:03:09 2020 From: sloopblueheron at gmail.com (Rick Lange) Date: Sat, 18 Apr 2020 16:03:09 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] What Nut for the Tabernacle Bolt? In-Reply-To: References: <000001d615a7$979870c0$c6c95240$@ebsmed.com> Message-ID: Wing nut, just like me. Regards, Rick Lange On Sat, Apr 18, 2020 at 3:22 PM Peter Nyberg wrote: > Now there?s an interesting rigging detail for a snowy day in April? > > Using a nylock nut for the mast tabernacle bolt as Mike suggests would > seem like a prudent choice. But my boat, after its recycling trip through > the General Boats plant in 2016, was outfitted with a wing nut on that > bolt. It never occurred to me to question the appropriateness of this. > > I?ve never had it loosen up on it?s own. When it?s tightened, it > compresses the sides of the tabernacle a bit, which keeps it under constant > tension. Maybe that tension is acting like a lock-washer. > > What do others have: nylock nut, wing nut, or something else? > > Peter Nyberg > Coventry, CT > s/v Silverheels (1988/2016) > > > On Apr 18, 2020, at 1:34 PM, Michael D. Weisner > wrote: > > > > Sean, > > > > From memory, the bolt sticks out about 1" beyond the mast tabernacle. > This should establish the rough length that you need. > > > > The hole in the mast should establish the diameter. Refer to the > attached bolt sizes chart. > > > > Don?t forget to use an "aircraft" style fastener (nut) with the nylon > insert. > > > > Mike > > s/v Windlass ('91) > > Nissequogue River, NY > > > > From cjlowe at sssnet.com Sat Apr 18 18:05:40 2020 From: cjlowe at sssnet.com (cjlowe at sssnet.com) Date: Sat, 18 Apr 2020 18:05:40 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] What Nut for the Tabernacle Bolt? In-Reply-To: References: <000001d615a7$979870c0$c6c95240$@ebsmed.com> Message-ID: <63989.24.140.30.102.1587247540.squirrel@quickpop.sssnet.com> Mine is a wingnut. Jerry Lowe Now there???s an interesting rigging detail for a snowy day in April??? > > Using a nylock nut for the mast tabernacle bolt as Mike suggests would > seem like a prudent choice. But my boat, after its recycling trip through > the General Boats plant in 2016, was outfitted with a wing nut on that > bolt. It never occurred to me to question the appropriateness of this. > > I???ve never had it loosen up on it???s own. When it???s tightened, it > compresses the sides of the tabernacle a bit, which keeps it under > constant tension. Maybe that tension is acting like a lock-washer. > > What do others have: nylock nut, wing nut, or something else? > > Peter Nyberg > Coventry, CT > s/v Silverheels (1988/2016) > >> On Apr 18, 2020, at 1:34 PM, Michael D. Weisner >> wrote: >> >> Sean, >> >> From memory, the bolt sticks out about 1" beyond the mast tabernacle. >> This should establish the rough length that you need. >> >> The hole in the mast should establish the diameter. Refer to the >> attached bolt sizes chart. >> >> Don???t forget to use an "aircraft" style fastener (nut) with the nylon >> insert. >> >> Mike >> s/v Windlass ('91) >> Nissequogue River, NY >> > > From a_czerwonky at yahoo.com Sat Apr 18 21:00:13 2020 From: a_czerwonky at yahoo.com (Art Czerwonky) Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2020 01:00:13 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] What Nut for the Tabernacle Bolt? In-Reply-To: <63989.24.140.30.102.1587247540.squirrel@quickpop.sssnet.com> References: <000001d615a7$979870c0$c6c95240$@ebsmed.com> <63989.24.140.30.102.1587247540.squirrel@quickpop.sssnet.com> Message-ID: <946537102.1928779.1587258013954@mail.yahoo.com> Guys, if tightened, be sure to untighten before lowering the mast. Art Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android On Sat, Apr 18, 2020 at 6:05 PM, cjlowe at sssnet.com wrote: Mine is a wingnut. Jerry Lowe Now there???s an interesting rigging detail for a snowy day in April??? > > Using a nylock nut for the mast tabernacle bolt as Mike suggests would > seem like a prudent choice.? But my boat, after its recycling trip through > the General Boats plant in 2016, was outfitted with a wing nut on that > bolt.? It never occurred to me to question the appropriateness of this. > > I???ve never had it loosen up on it???s own.? When it???s tightened, it > compresses the sides of the tabernacle a bit, which keeps it under > constant tension.? Maybe that tension is acting like a lock-washer. > > What do others have: nylock nut, wing nut, or something else? > > Peter Nyberg > Coventry, CT > s/v Silverheels (1988/2016) > >> On Apr 18, 2020, at 1:34 PM, Michael D. Weisner >> wrote: >> >> Sean, >> >> From memory, the bolt sticks out about 1" beyond the mast tabernacle. >> This should establish the rough length that you need. >> >> The hole in the mast should establish the diameter. Refer to the >> attached bolt sizes chart. >> >> Don???t forget to use an "aircraft" style fastener (nut) with the nylon >> insert. >> >> Mike >> s/v Windlass ('91) >> Nissequogue River, NY >> > > From mweisner at ebsmed.com Sat Apr 18 21:37:49 2020 From: mweisner at ebsmed.com (Michael Weisner) Date: Sat, 18 Apr 2020 21:37:49 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] What Nut for the Tabernacle Bolt? In-Reply-To: <946537102.1928779.1587258013954@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Art,Voice of experience?Mikes/v Windlass ('91)?Nissequogue River, NY -------- Original message --------From: Art Czerwonky via Rhodes22-list Date: 4/18/20 9:00 PM (GMT-05:00) To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] What Nut for the Tabernacle Bolt? Guys, if tightened, be sure to untighten before lowering the mast.ArtSent from Yahoo Mail on Android ? On Sat, Apr 18, 2020 at 6:05 PM, cjlowe at sssnet.com wrote:?? Mine is a wingnut.Jerry LoweNow there???s an interesting rigging detail for a snowy day in April???>> Using a nylock nut for the mast tabernacle bolt as Mike suggests would> seem like a prudent choice.? But my boat, after its recycling trip through> the General Boats plant in 2016, was outfitted with a wing nut on that> bolt.? It never occurred to me to question the appropriateness of this.>> I???ve never had it loosen up on it???s own.? When it???s tightened, it> compresses the sides of the tabernacle a bit, which keeps it under> constant tension.? Maybe that tension is acting like a lock-washer.>> What do others have: nylock nut, wing nut, or something else?>> Peter Nyberg> Coventry, CT> s/v Silverheels (1988/2016)>>> On Apr 18, 2020, at 1:34 PM, Michael D. Weisner >> wrote:>>>> Sean,>>>> From memory, the bolt sticks out about 1" beyond the mast tabernacle.>> This should establish the rough length that you need.>>>> The hole in the mast should establish the diameter. Refer to the>> attached bolt sizes chart.>>>> Don???t forget to use an "aircraft" style fastener (nut) with the nylon>> insert.>>>> Mike>> s/v Windlass ('91)>> Nissequogue River, NY>>>>? From mike at traildesign.com Sun Apr 19 11:29:32 2020 From: mike at traildesign.com (Mike Riter) Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2020 11:29:32 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] What Nut for the Tabernacle Bolt? In-Reply-To: References: <946537102.1928779.1587258013954@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Mine came with a SS wing nut as well. Michael Riter SV Emma B On Sat, Apr 18, 2020 at 9:37 PM Michael Weisner wrote: > Art,Voice of experience?Mikes/v Windlass ('91) Nissequogue River, NY > -------- Original message --------From: Art Czerwonky via Rhodes22-list < > rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> Date: 4/18/20 9:00 PM (GMT-05:00) To: The > Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: > [Rhodes22-list] What Nut for the Tabernacle Bolt? Guys, if tightened, be > sure to untighten before lowering the mast.ArtSent from Yahoo Mail on > Android On Sat, Apr 18, 2020 at 6:05 PM, cjlowe at sssnet.com< > cjlowe at sssnet.com> wrote: Mine is a wingnut.Jerry LoweNow there???s an > interesting rigging detail for a snowy day in April???>> Using a nylock nut > for the mast tabernacle bolt as Mike suggests would> seem like a prudent > choice. But my boat, after its recycling trip through> the General Boats > plant in 2016, was outfitted with a wing nut on that> bolt. It never > occurred to me to question the appropriateness of this.>> I???ve never had > it loosen up on it???s own. When it???s tightened, it> compresses the > sides of the tabernacle a bit, which keeps it under> constant tension. > Maybe that tension is acting like a lock-washer.>> What do others have: > nylock nut, wing nut, or something else?>> Peter Nyberg> Coventry, CT> s/v > Silverheels (1988/2016)>>> On Apr 18, 2020, at 1:34 PM, Michael D. Weisner < > mweisner at ebsmed.com>>> wrote:>>>> Sean,>>>> From memory, the bolt sticks > out about 1" beyond the mast tabernacle.>> This should establish the rough > length that you need.>>>> The hole in the mast should establish the > diameter. Refer to the>> attached bolt sizes chart.>>>> Don???t forget to > use an "aircraft" style fastener (nut) with the nylon>> insert.>>>> Mike>> > s/v Windlass ('91)>> Nissequogue River, NY>>>> From alexis.seigneurin at gmail.com Sun Apr 19 22:10:52 2020 From: alexis.seigneurin at gmail.com (Alexis Seigneurin) Date: Mon, 20 Apr 2020 02:10:52 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Rhode 22 Mast Bolt Dimensions In-Reply-To: <000001d615a7$979870c0$c6c95240$@ebsmed.com> References: , <000001d615a7$979870c0$c6c95240$@ebsmed.com> Message-ID: I got mine replaced last year with a stainless steel 316, 3/8?-16 x 4? from Bolt Depot. I am very happy with it. Alexis ________________________________ From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of Michael D. Weisner Sent: Saturday, April 18, 2020 1:34:18 PM To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Rhode 22 Mast Bolt Dimensions Sean, >From memory, the bolt sticks out about 1" beyond the mast tabernacle. This should establish the rough length that you need. The hole in the mast should establish the diameter. Refer to the attached bolt sizes chart. Don?t forget to use an "aircraft" style fastener (nut) with the nylon insert. Mike s/v Windlass ('91) Nissequogue River, NY -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of Sean Allen Sent: Saturday, April 18, 2020 12:55 PM To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Rhode 22 Mast Bolt Dimensions Does anyone know the length and diameter for the mast bolt? I seem to have misplaced it after unstepping it last season. Thanks! Sean -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: US-Hex-Bolt-Sizes.pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 1107212 bytes Desc: not available URL: From jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com Mon Apr 20 07:28:57 2020 From: jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com (JeffSmith) Date: Mon, 20 Apr 2020 04:28:57 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Rhode 22 Mast Bolt Dimensions In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1587382137884-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Ditto the wing nut. I replaced the 4" bolt with 4.75" to accomodate the (2) 6" straps with 1/2"grommets on each end to attach the boom vang (used only with pop top down) to the base of the mast. ----- Jeff Smith 2009 R22 #101 RADIANT Atlantic Highlands Municpal Harbor Atlantic Highlands, NJ -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From jerry.keybl at gmail.com Mon Apr 20 11:22:13 2020 From: jerry.keybl at gmail.com (jerry.keybl) Date: Mon, 20 Apr 2020 08:22:13 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Through hull replacement? Message-ID: <1587396133234-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Hi all, The through hull for my marine head appears stuck (frozen) open, but was not letting in any seawater last year. It is on my maintenance list to address this spring. Anyone had any luck sourcing parts/replacements? Any tips and tricks? I would hate to end up with a hole in my boat! Thanks, Jerry -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From rlowe at vt.edu Mon Apr 20 12:52:47 2020 From: rlowe at vt.edu (rlowe at vt.edu) Date: Mon, 20 Apr 2020 16:52:47 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Through hull replacement? In-Reply-To: <1587396133234-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1587396133234-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: Jerry, I think the best advice I heard on seacocks if make sure you exercise them several times a year to keep them from freezing up. Here is an article from Boat US which may be of interest. https://www.boatus.com/expert-advice/expert-advice-archive/2012/july/installing-a-seacock I expect West Marine would have a suitable replacement. https://www.westmarine.com/search?Ntt=sea+cocks Is it just the valve or is yours part of the through hull? - rob ________________________________ From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of jerry.keybl Sent: Monday, April 20, 2020 11:22 AM To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Through hull replacement? Hi all, The through hull for my marine head appears stuck (frozen) open, but was not letting in any seawater last year. It is on my maintenance list to address this spring. Anyone had any luck sourcing parts/replacements? Any tips and tricks? I would hate to end up with a hole in my boat! Thanks, Jerry -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From morrisix at comcast.net Wed Apr 22 09:41:29 2020 From: morrisix at comcast.net (Bill) Date: Wed, 22 Apr 2020 06:41:29 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Boom Room In-Reply-To: <28838121.1176522060041.JavaMail.root@elwamui-hound.atl.sa.earthlink.net> References: <28838121.1176522060041.JavaMail.root@elwamui-hound.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Message-ID: <1587562889445-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Hi Art I am interested in the Boom Room Are you still making them? Do you have any pictures? I assume snaps would have to be added. How many would be needed? Thanks Bill -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From gramille at tds.net Wed Apr 22 10:15:58 2020 From: gramille at tds.net (gramille) Date: Wed, 22 Apr 2020 07:15:58 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Rhode 22 Mast Bolt Dimensions In-Reply-To: <1587382137884-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1587382137884-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <1587564958645-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Jeff, Can you remind me again how you rigged up your boom vang? I really want to do that this season. Keep Well, Graham -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From a_czerwonky at yahoo.com Wed Apr 22 10:19:21 2020 From: a_czerwonky at yahoo.com (Art Czerwonky) Date: Wed, 22 Apr 2020 14:19:21 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Boom Room In-Reply-To: <1587562889445-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <28838121.1176522060041.JavaMail.root@elwamui-hound.atl.sa.earthlink.net> <1587562889445-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <1634241427.604949.1587565161183@mail.yahoo.com> Bill, Pls send my your individual email address, best ph #, and boat location off list.? R,?Art Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android On Wed, Apr 22, 2020 at 9:41 AM, Bill wrote: Hi Art I am interested in the Boom Room Are you still making them? Do you have any pictures?? I assume snaps would have to be added. How many would be needed? Thanks Bill -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From seanallen1206 at gmail.com Wed Apr 22 13:22:51 2020 From: seanallen1206 at gmail.com (Sean Allen) Date: Wed, 22 Apr 2020 13:22:51 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Spring Lines Message-ID: I'm launching my boat in to a new slip in a few weeks and I'm curious if and how other Rhodes owners use spring lines? Mine only has one bow cleat and two on the stern. I've heard of others using the grab rail on the bulk head mentioned. Has anyone installed additional cleats? Is that advisable? The marina is in tidal waters (Barnegat Bay) with quite a bit of wake on a daily basis. Sean From melrothbard at yahoo.com Wed Apr 22 13:31:32 2020 From: melrothbard at yahoo.com (Melvyn Rothbard) Date: Wed, 22 Apr 2020 17:31:32 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Spring Lines In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1702200829.1021949.1587576692258@mail.yahoo.com> I have found that both the bow cleat and both of the aft cleats can handle both a 1/4 inch? spring line and a 1/2 inch regular line at the same time.? I actually run 2 lines to each of the bow cleat and the port aft cleats. Mel Melvyn H. Rothbard Attorney at Law Suite 3C 23 South 23rd Street Philadelphia, PA 19103 215 901 2258 Fax: 215 656 0993 melrothbard at yahoo.com CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE The information and/or documents included in or accompanying this transmission contain(s) confidential information belonging to the sender which is legally privileged. The information is intended only for the use of the individual or entity to whom it was sent as indicated above. If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any disclosure, copying, distribution or taking of any action in reliance on the contents of this transmission is strictly prohibited. If you have received this e mail in error, please delete this message and immediately notify us by replying to this e mail or telephoning us at 215 901 2258. On Wednesday, April 22, 2020, 01:23:07 PM EDT, Sean Allen wrote: I'm launching my boat in to a new slip in a few weeks and I'm curious if and how other Rhodes owners use spring lines? Mine only has one bow cleat and two on the stern. I've heard of others using the grab rail on the bulk head mentioned. Has anyone installed additional cleats? Is that advisable? The marina is in tidal waters (Barnegat Bay) with quite a bit of wake on a daily basis. Sean From sloopblueheron at gmail.com Wed Apr 22 13:32:57 2020 From: sloopblueheron at gmail.com (Rick Lange) Date: Wed, 22 Apr 2020 13:32:57 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Spring Lines In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Sean, I use the stern dock line as a spring line by throwing the loop over the winch on the same side as I come into the slip. It pulls the boat right up alongside the dock. Regards, Rick Lange On Wed, Apr 22, 2020 at 1:23 PM Sean Allen wrote: > I'm launching my boat in to a new slip in a few weeks and I'm curious if > and how other Rhodes owners use spring lines? Mine only has one bow cleat > and two on the stern. > > I've heard of others using the grab rail on the bulk head mentioned. > > Has anyone installed additional cleats? Is that advisable? > > The marina is in tidal waters (Barnegat Bay) with quite a bit of wake on a > daily basis. > > Sean > From jayf401 at gmail.com Wed Apr 22 13:58:17 2020 From: jayf401 at gmail.com (Jay Friedland) Date: Wed, 22 Apr 2020 13:58:17 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Spring Lines In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Sean, It all depends on the exposure to the elements. Mel & I are on the same island but completely different factors to deal with. Mel is fairly protected in a lagoon, so his lines are fine for that location. Wanderlust is in a narrow slip in a marina with a sea wall surrounding the boats. It has 11? of clearance, and exposed to high winds, some wave action and up to 2-1/2? of tidal change. While it?s not all visible in the attached photo (if it?s not stripped away), is the following, using all 1/2? lines- 1) bow lines to pilings at a 90? 2) spring lines to adjustable midship cleats on 1? T-tracks, 30? of movement 3) Tide-minders on each stern line I?ve been through over 12 seasons of squalls, glancing hurricanes, excessive tides and only have to worry about other people?s boats. The other advantage of midship cleats is the versatility of docking in many situations. I hope this helps. Jay Friedland S/v Wanderlust, ?97 > On Apr 22, 2020, at 1:22 PM, Sean Allen wrote: > > I'm launching my boat in to a new slip in a few weeks and I'm curious if > and how other Rhodes owners use spring lines? Mine only has one bow cleat > and two on the stern. > > I've heard of others using the grab rail on the bulk head mentioned. > > Has anyone installed additional cleats? Is that advisable? > > The marina is in tidal waters (Barnegat Bay) with quite a bit of wake on a > daily basis. > > Sean From jayf401 at gmail.com Wed Apr 22 14:15:48 2020 From: jayf401 at gmail.com (Jay Friedland) Date: Wed, 22 Apr 2020 14:15:48 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Spring Lines In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <379D4DD7-E316-44A4-9FA0-121C34E32793@gmail.com> Sean, I should also add that the Tide-minders prevent any side movement in my relatively narrow slip. On the spring lines, I use heavy-duty snubbers (for up to 5/8? line) to give the boat some forward movement beyond the stretch of the lines. With the occasional excessive tides, I use the midship cleat adjustment along with the snubbers to keep the boat centered with tension, not just the extreme stretch of the spring lines. Jay > On Apr 22, 2020, at 1:58 PM, Jay Friedland wrote: > > Sean, > It all depends on the exposure to the elements. Mel & I are on the same island but completely different factors to deal with. Mel is fairly protected in a lagoon, so his lines are fine for that location. Wanderlust is in a narrow slip in a marina with a sea wall surrounding the boats. It has 11? of clearance, and exposed to high winds, some wave action and up to 2-1/2? of tidal change. While it?s not all visible in the attached photo (if it?s not stripped away), is the following, using all 1/2? lines- > > 1) bow lines to pilings at a 90? > 2) spring lines to adjustable midship cleats on 1? T-tracks, 30? of movement > 3) Tide-minders on each stern line > > I?ve been through over 12 seasons of squalls, glancing hurricanes, excessive tides and only have to worry about other people?s boats. The other advantage of midship cleats is the versatility of docking in many situations. I hope this helps. > > Jay Friedland > S/v Wanderlust, ?97 > > > > >> On Apr 22, 2020, at 1:22 PM, Sean Allen > wrote: >> >> I'm launching my boat in to a new slip in a few weeks and I'm curious if >> and how other Rhodes owners use spring lines? Mine only has one bow cleat >> and two on the stern. >> >> I've heard of others using the grab rail on the bulk head mentioned. >> >> Has anyone installed additional cleats? Is that advisable? >> >> The marina is in tidal waters (Barnegat Bay) with quite a bit of wake on a >> daily basis. >> >> Sean > From jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com Wed Apr 22 15:12:48 2020 From: jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com (Jesse Shumaker) Date: Wed, 22 Apr 2020 12:12:48 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Spring Lines In-Reply-To: <379D4DD7-E316-44A4-9FA0-121C34E32793@gmail.com> References: <379D4DD7-E316-44A4-9FA0-121C34E32793@gmail.com> Message-ID: <1587582768220-0.post@n5.nabble.com> I assume the mid ship cleats may have been added by owners. My boat does not have any midship cleats so I have used the metal grab rails as Sean mentioned. Does anyone have photos to show where exactly the midship cleats are installed? When I installed chocks on my foredeck, I found that it was hard to get to the underside of the toe rail, so I installed the chocks further from the toe rail where I could access the bolts coming through. I assume a backing plate against the cabin roof would be needed when installing the midship cleats. If anyone has examples of the mid ship cleat installation that would be good to share. -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From jayf401 at gmail.com Wed Apr 22 15:29:14 2020 From: jayf401 at gmail.com (Jay Friedland) Date: Wed, 22 Apr 2020 15:29:14 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Spring Lines In-Reply-To: <1587582768220-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <379D4DD7-E316-44A4-9FA0-121C34E32793@gmail.com> <1587582768220-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <01EDBFD1-02A1-48F4-AF61-48FBD0B05228@gmail.com> Jesse, I assume my photos of that got stripped away, I tried attaching them as pdf?s. Any help from da list to format them correctly on that is appreciated. My midship cleats are movable on a 1? T-track, same track as the jib cars move on. As any tension is shearing against the mounting screws for the track, I drilled and tapped 1-1/2?x1/4x20?s into the toerail. These were installed when the boat was new 23 years ago, and there has been extreme pressure fairly constantly from April through November storms, up to 4? rolling waves with heavy tidal swings all through my time in less safe slips. So they are stress tested. > On Apr 22, 2020, at 3:12 PM, Jesse Shumaker wrote: > > I assume the mid ship cleats may have been added by owners. My boat does not > have any midship cleats so I have used the metal grab rails as Sean > mentioned. > > Does anyone have photos to show where exactly the midship cleats are > installed? When I installed chocks on my foredeck, I found that it was > hard to get to the underside of the toe rail, so I installed the chocks > further from the toe rail where I could access the bolts coming through. > > I assume a backing plate against the cabin roof would be needed when > installing the midship cleats. If anyone has examples of the mid ship cleat > installation that would be good to share. > > > > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From peter at sunnybeeches.com Wed Apr 22 15:45:56 2020 From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg) Date: Wed, 22 Apr 2020 15:45:56 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Spring Lines In-Reply-To: <01EDBFD1-02A1-48F4-AF61-48FBD0B05228@gmail.com> References: <379D4DD7-E316-44A4-9FA0-121C34E32793@gmail.com> <1587582768220-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <01EDBFD1-02A1-48F4-AF61-48FBD0B05228@gmail.com> Message-ID: <75CF1C18-1FAB-48F2-B7F5-EFA222D4F534@sunnybeeches.com> Jay, I?m confused about your reply. You say you?re mounting your cleats on the forward jib track, but you also say that the track is bolted to the toe-rail. My forward jib tracks are mounted to the deck very close to the cabin side (a little too close in fact). Also, in a discussion not too far back someone (Graham I think) attached a photo showing that the toe-rails on his R22 are hollow, not solid fiberglass. As to your problem with posting photos, it may have nothing to do with format. The mail list software apparently doesn?t like the way that the Mac email client program does attachments. Perhaps there are other email client programs with similar issues. Peter Nyberg Coventry, CT s/v Silverheels (1988/2016) > On Apr 22, 2020, at 3:29 PM, Jay Friedland wrote: > > Jesse, > I assume my photos of that got stripped away, I tried attaching them as pdf?s. Any help from da list to format them correctly on that is appreciated. > > My midship cleats are movable on a 1? T-track, same track as the jib cars move on. As any tension is shearing against the mounting screws for the track, I drilled and tapped 1-1/2?x1/4x20?s into the toerail. These were installed when the boat was new 23 years ago, and there has been extreme pressure fairly constantly from April through November storms, up to 4? rolling waves with heavy tidal swings all through my time in less safe slips. So they are stress tested. > > >> On Apr 22, 2020, at 3:12 PM, Jesse Shumaker wrote: >> >> I assume the mid ship cleats may have been added by owners. My boat does not >> have any midship cleats so I have used the metal grab rails as Sean >> mentioned. >> >> Does anyone have photos to show where exactly the midship cleats are >> installed? When I installed chocks on my foredeck, I found that it was >> hard to get to the underside of the toe rail, so I installed the chocks >> further from the toe rail where I could access the bolts coming through. >> >> I assume a backing plate against the cabin roof would be needed when >> installing the midship cleats. If anyone has examples of the mid ship cleat >> installation that would be good to share. >> >> >> >> -- >> Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > From jayf401 at gmail.com Wed Apr 22 15:58:47 2020 From: jayf401 at gmail.com (Jay Friedland) Date: Wed, 22 Apr 2020 15:58:47 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Spring Lines In-Reply-To: <75CF1C18-1FAB-48F2-B7F5-EFA222D4F534@sunnybeeches.com> References: <379D4DD7-E316-44A4-9FA0-121C34E32793@gmail.com> <1587582768220-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <01EDBFD1-02A1-48F4-AF61-48FBD0B05228@gmail.com> <75CF1C18-1FAB-48F2-B7F5-EFA222D4F534@sunnybeeches.com> Message-ID: Peter, The way I?ve seen it, that?s an older setup for an inboard setup for a reefed jib that was right next to the cabin top. My ?97 were drilled and tapped into the toerail of solid material, best I can remember (23 years ago). I also used 3M 4200 adhesive for bedding the track, but trouble free. I will try to send through my gmail website, or my son is also on da list. Jay > On Apr 22, 2020, at 3:45 PM, Peter Nyberg wrote: > > Jay, > > I?m confused about your reply. You say you?re mounting your cleats on the forward jib track, but you also say that the track is bolted to the toe-rail. My forward jib tracks are mounted to the deck very close to the cabin side (a little too close in fact). Also, in a discussion not too far back someone (Graham I think) attached a photo showing that the toe-rails on his R22 are hollow, not solid fiberglass. > > As to your problem with posting photos, it may have nothing to do with format. The mail list software apparently doesn?t like the way that the Mac email client program does attachments. Perhaps there are other email client programs with similar issues. > > Peter Nyberg > Coventry, CT > s/v Silverheels (1988/2016) > >> On Apr 22, 2020, at 3:29 PM, Jay Friedland wrote: >> >> Jesse, >> I assume my photos of that got stripped away, I tried attaching them as pdf?s. Any help from da list to format them correctly on that is appreciated. >> >> My midship cleats are movable on a 1? T-track, same track as the jib cars move on. As any tension is shearing against the mounting screws for the track, I drilled and tapped 1-1/2?x1/4x20?s into the toerail. These were installed when the boat was new 23 years ago, and there has been extreme pressure fairly constantly from April through November storms, up to 4? rolling waves with heavy tidal swings all through my time in less safe slips. So they are stress tested. >> >> >>> On Apr 22, 2020, at 3:12 PM, Jesse Shumaker wrote: >>> >>> I assume the mid ship cleats may have been added by owners. My boat does not >>> have any midship cleats so I have used the metal grab rails as Sean >>> mentioned. >>> >>> Does anyone have photos to show where exactly the midship cleats are >>> installed? When I installed chocks on my foredeck, I found that it was >>> hard to get to the underside of the toe rail, so I installed the chocks >>> further from the toe rail where I could access the bolts coming through. >>> >>> I assume a backing plate against the cabin roof would be needed when >>> installing the midship cleats. If anyone has examples of the mid ship cleat >>> installation that would be good to share. >>> >>> >>> >>> -- >>> Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ >> > From gstewart8 at cogeco.ca Wed Apr 22 16:36:38 2020 From: gstewart8 at cogeco.ca (Graham Stewart) Date: Wed, 22 Apr 2020 16:36:38 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Spring Lines In-Reply-To: <75CF1C18-1FAB-48F2-B7F5-EFA222D4F534@sunnybeeches.com> References: <379D4DD7-E316-44A4-9FA0-121C34E32793@gmail.com> <1587582768220-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <01EDBFD1-02A1-48F4-AF61-48FBD0B05228@gmail.com> <75CF1C18-1FAB-48F2-B7F5-EFA222D4F534@sunnybeeches.com> Message-ID: <022501d618e5$ba46ae20$2ed40a60$@ca> Here is the cutaway picture showing the toe rail on my boat. It is hollow but virtually impossible to get access to the underside should you want to attach a cleat with bolts. The fiberglass is quite thick and might take a screw for awhile. If adding cleats through the deck be advised that there might be a significant space between the liner and the core - at least that seems to be the case with older boats. If so, you would want to use a very substantial backing plate and, if possible, inject a very thick glob of epoxy into the space. Graham Stewart Agile 1976 Rhodes 22 Kingston Ontario -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Peter Nyberg Sent: Wednesday, April 22, 2020 3:46 PM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Spring Lines Jay, I?m confused about your reply. You say you?re mounting your cleats on the forward jib track, but you also say that the track is bolted to the toe-rail. My forward jib tracks are mounted to the deck very close to the cabin side (a little too close in fact). Also, in a discussion not too far back someone (Graham I think) attached a photo showing that the toe-rails on his R22 are hollow, not solid fiberglass. As to your problem with posting photos, it may have nothing to do with format. The mail list software apparently doesn?t like the way that the Mac email client program does attachments. Perhaps there are other email client programs with similar issues. Peter Nyberg Coventry, CT s/v Silverheels (1988/2016) > On Apr 22, 2020, at 3:29 PM, Jay Friedland wrote: > > Jesse, > I assume my photos of that got stripped away, I tried attaching them as pdf?s. Any help from da list to format them correctly on that is appreciated. > > My midship cleats are movable on a 1? T-track, same track as the jib cars move on. As any tension is shearing against the mounting screws for the track, I drilled and tapped 1-1/2?x1/4x20?s into the toerail. These were installed when the boat was new 23 years ago, and there has been extreme pressure fairly constantly from April through November storms, up to 4? rolling waves with heavy tidal swings all through my time in less safe slips. So they are stress tested. > > >> On Apr 22, 2020, at 3:12 PM, Jesse Shumaker wrote: >> >> I assume the mid ship cleats may have been added by owners. My boat does not >> have any midship cleats so I have used the metal grab rails as Sean >> mentioned. >> >> Does anyone have photos to show where exactly the midship cleats are >> installed? When I installed chocks on my foredeck, I found that it was >> hard to get to the underside of the toe rail, so I installed the chocks >> further from the toe rail where I could access the bolts coming through. >> >> I assume a backing plate against the cabin roof would be needed when >> installing the midship cleats. If anyone has examples of the mid ship cleat >> installation that would be good to share. >> >> >> >> -- >> Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Rhodes foredeck removed July 2009 a.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 39426 bytes Desc: not available URL: From jayf401 at gmail.com Wed Apr 22 16:41:43 2020 From: jayf401 at gmail.com (Jay Friedland) Date: Wed, 22 Apr 2020 16:41:43 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Spring Lines In-Reply-To: <75CF1C18-1FAB-48F2-B7F5-EFA222D4F534@sunnybeeches.com> References: <379D4DD7-E316-44A4-9FA0-121C34E32793@gmail.com> <1587582768220-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <01EDBFD1-02A1-48F4-AF61-48FBD0B05228@gmail.com> <75CF1C18-1FAB-48F2-B7F5-EFA222D4F534@sunnybeeches.com> Message-ID: Peter, Just trying to get a test photo through the server. I actually liked Stan's adjustable inboard sheeting system vs. the fixed cabin top cam cleat newer version. It is a tripping hazard and more expensive than the single cleat and fairlead, and not used often enough, but a good idea. On Wed, Apr 22, 2020 at 3:46 PM Peter Nyberg wrote: > Jay, > > I?m confused about your reply. You say you?re mounting your cleats on the > forward jib track, but you also say that the track is bolted to the > toe-rail. My forward jib tracks are mounted to the deck very close to the > cabin side (a little too close in fact). Also, in a discussion not too far > back someone (Graham I think) attached a photo showing that the toe-rails > on his R22 are hollow, not solid fiberglass. > > As to your problem with posting photos, it may have nothing to do with > format. The mail list software apparently doesn?t like the way that the > Mac email client program does attachments. Perhaps there are other email > client programs with similar issues. > > Peter Nyberg > Coventry, CT > s/v Silverheels (1988/2016) > > > On Apr 22, 2020, at 3:29 PM, Jay Friedland wrote: > > > > Jesse, > > I assume my photos of that got stripped away, I tried attaching them as > pdf?s. Any help from da list to format them correctly on that is > appreciated. > > > > My midship cleats are movable on a 1? T-track, same track as the jib > cars move on. As any tension is shearing against the mounting screws for > the track, I drilled and tapped 1-1/2?x1/4x20?s into the toerail. These > were installed when the boat was new 23 years ago, and there has been > extreme pressure fairly constantly from April through November storms, up > to 4? rolling waves with heavy tidal swings all through my time in less > safe slips. So they are stress tested. > > > > > >> On Apr 22, 2020, at 3:12 PM, Jesse Shumaker < > jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com> wrote: > >> > >> I assume the mid ship cleats may have been added by owners. My boat > does not > >> have any midship cleats so I have used the metal grab rails as Sean > >> mentioned. > >> > >> Does anyone have photos to show where exactly the midship cleats are > >> installed? When I installed chocks on my foredeck, I found that it was > >> hard to get to the underside of the toe rail, so I installed the chocks > >> further from the toe rail where I could access the bolts coming through. > >> > >> I assume a backing plate against the cabin roof would be needed when > >> installing the midship cleats. If anyone has examples of the mid ship > cleat > >> installation that would be good to share. > >> > >> > >> > >> -- > >> Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > > > > -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: R22.midship cleat, etc.png Type: image/png Size: 3979941 bytes Desc: not available URL: From peter at sunnybeeches.com Wed Apr 22 16:51:54 2020 From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg) Date: Wed, 22 Apr 2020 16:51:54 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Spring Lines In-Reply-To: References: <379D4DD7-E316-44A4-9FA0-121C34E32793@gmail.com> <1587582768220-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <01EDBFD1-02A1-48F4-AF61-48FBD0B05228@gmail.com> <75CF1C18-1FAB-48F2-B7F5-EFA222D4F534@sunnybeeches.com> Message-ID: Jay, The photo came through, and I can see the track mounted to your toe-rail. I can see the advantage, as it reduces clutter underfoot. I also notice a chock mounted to the toe-rail forward, so it would seem that perhaps the entire toe-rail is solid fiberglass, not just the area under the track. Thanks for sharing? ?Peter > On Apr 22, 2020, at 4:41 PM, Jay Friedland wrote: > > Peter, > Just trying to get a test photo through the server. > > I actually liked Stan's adjustable inboard sheeting system vs. the fixed > cabin top cam cleat newer version. It is a tripping hazard and more > expensive than the single cleat and fairlead, and not used often enough, > but a good idea. > > On Wed, Apr 22, 2020 at 3:46 PM Peter Nyberg wrote: > >> Jay, >> >> I?m confused about your reply. You say you?re mounting your cleats on the >> forward jib track, but you also say that the track is bolted to the >> toe-rail. My forward jib tracks are mounted to the deck very close to the >> cabin side (a little too close in fact). Also, in a discussion not too far >> back someone (Graham I think) attached a photo showing that the toe-rails >> on his R22 are hollow, not solid fiberglass. >> >> As to your problem with posting photos, it may have nothing to do with >> format. The mail list software apparently doesn?t like the way that the >> Mac email client program does attachments. Perhaps there are other email >> client programs with similar issues. >> >> Peter Nyberg >> Coventry, CT >> s/v Silverheels (1988/2016) >> >>> On Apr 22, 2020, at 3:29 PM, Jay Friedland wrote: >>> >>> Jesse, >>> I assume my photos of that got stripped away, I tried attaching them as >> pdf?s. Any help from da list to format them correctly on that is >> appreciated. >>> >>> My midship cleats are movable on a 1? T-track, same track as the jib >> cars move on. As any tension is shearing against the mounting screws for >> the track, I drilled and tapped 1-1/2?x1/4x20?s into the toerail. These >> were installed when the boat was new 23 years ago, and there has been >> extreme pressure fairly constantly from April through November storms, up >> to 4? rolling waves with heavy tidal swings all through my time in less >> safe slips. So they are stress tested. >>> >>> >>>> On Apr 22, 2020, at 3:12 PM, Jesse Shumaker < >> jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com> wrote: >>>> >>>> I assume the mid ship cleats may have been added by owners. My boat >> does not >>>> have any midship cleats so I have used the metal grab rails as Sean >>>> mentioned. >>>> >>>> Does anyone have photos to show where exactly the midship cleats are >>>> installed? When I installed chocks on my foredeck, I found that it was >>>> hard to get to the underside of the toe rail, so I installed the chocks >>>> further from the toe rail where I could access the bolts coming through. >>>> >>>> I assume a backing plate against the cabin roof would be needed when >>>> installing the midship cleats. If anyone has examples of the mid ship >> cleat >>>> installation that would be good to share. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> -- >>>> Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ >>> >> >> > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: R22.midship cleat, etc.png > Type: image/png > Size: 3979941 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: From seanallen1206 at gmail.com Wed Apr 22 17:01:09 2020 From: seanallen1206 at gmail.com (Sean Allen) Date: Wed, 22 Apr 2020 17:01:09 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Spring Lines In-Reply-To: <379D4DD7-E316-44A4-9FA0-121C34E32793@gmail.com> References: <379D4DD7-E316-44A4-9FA0-121C34E32793@gmail.com> Message-ID: Thanks Jay (and all) as this has been really helpful. I've got 6 pilings in my slip. I was thinking of using two 3/8" bow lines around each piling with snubbers both connected to the bow cleat, then two 3/8" stern lines with snubbers each connected from the piling to each stern cleat, and I think i might put spring cleats in approximately mid-ship by the windows and run a 1/2" spring line with snubbers on each side (using the grab rails temporarily). On Wed, Apr 22, 2020 at 2:15 PM Jay Friedland wrote: > Sean, > I should also add that the Tide-minders prevent any side movement in my > relatively narrow slip. On the spring lines, I use heavy-duty snubbers (for > up to 5/8? line) to give the boat some forward movement beyond the stretch > of the lines. With the occasional excessive tides, I use the midship cleat > adjustment along with the snubbers to keep the boat centered with tension, > not just the extreme stretch of the spring lines. > Jay > > > On Apr 22, 2020, at 1:58 PM, Jay Friedland wrote: > > > > Sean, > > It all depends on the exposure to the elements. Mel & I are on the same > island but completely different factors to deal with. Mel is fairly > protected in a lagoon, so his lines are fine for that location. Wanderlust > is in a narrow slip in a marina with a sea wall surrounding the boats. It > has 11? of clearance, and exposed to high winds, some wave action and up to > 2-1/2? of tidal change. While it?s not all visible in the attached photo > (if it?s not stripped away), is the following, using all 1/2? lines- > > > > 1) bow lines to pilings at a 90? > > 2) spring lines to adjustable midship cleats on 1? T-tracks, 30? of > movement > > 3) Tide-minders on each stern line > > > > I?ve been through over 12 seasons of squalls, glancing hurricanes, > excessive tides and only have to worry about other people?s boats. The > other advantage of midship cleats is the versatility of docking in many > situations. I hope this helps. > > > > Jay Friedland > > S/v Wanderlust, ?97 > > > > > > > > > >> On Apr 22, 2020, at 1:22 PM, Sean Allen > wrote: > >> > >> I'm launching my boat in to a new slip in a few weeks and I'm curious if > >> and how other Rhodes owners use spring lines? Mine only has one bow > cleat > >> and two on the stern. > >> > >> I've heard of others using the grab rail on the bulk head mentioned. > >> > >> Has anyone installed additional cleats? Is that advisable? > >> > >> The marina is in tidal waters (Barnegat Bay) with quite a bit of wake > on a > >> daily basis. > >> > >> Sean > > > > From jayf401 at gmail.com Wed Apr 22 17:03:34 2020 From: jayf401 at gmail.com (Jay Friedland) Date: Wed, 22 Apr 2020 17:03:34 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Rhode 22 Mast Bolt Dimensions In-Reply-To: <1587564958645-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1587382137884-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1587564958645-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: Graham, Let me try one more time to get these photos through to you. Jay On Wed, Apr 22, 2020 at 10:16 AM gramille wrote: > Jeff, > Can you remind me again how you rigged up your boom vang? > I really want to do that this season. > Keep Well, > Graham > > > > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: R22.Vang Strap2.png Type: image/png Size: 314099 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: R22.Vang Mounted2.png Type: image/png Size: 290908 bytes Desc: not available URL: From jayf401 at gmail.com Wed Apr 22 17:22:39 2020 From: jayf401 at gmail.com (Jay Friedland) Date: Wed, 22 Apr 2020 17:22:39 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Spring Lines In-Reply-To: References: <379D4DD7-E316-44A4-9FA0-121C34E32793@gmail.com> Message-ID: <2FA5AB97-71DC-4EE9-B8D3-8315788F5A9E@gmail.com> Sean, Best thing I can recommend is gradually add on to the basics (bow & stern), once you?ve seen how on the forces you?re dealing with pull your boat. I?ve seen powerboats criss-cross their stern lines if it clears your outboard, then snubbers on the spring lines keep the boat centered with needed forward and back movement. For me, I would prevent any side slip, especially with 6 pilings. Also, I?ve always used heavier lines on bow & stern where the greater forces are, with the spring lines as supplemental to your primary control. > On Apr 22, 2020, at 5:01 PM, Sean Allen wrote: > > Thanks Jay (and all) as this has been really helpful. > > I've got 6 pilings in my slip. I was thinking of using two 3/8" bow lines > around each piling with snubbers both connected to the bow cleat, then two > 3/8" stern lines with snubbers each connected from the piling to each stern > cleat, and I think i might put spring cleats in approximately mid-ship by > the windows and run a 1/2" spring line with snubbers on each side (using > the grab rails temporarily). > > > On Wed, Apr 22, 2020 at 2:15 PM Jay Friedland wrote: > >> Sean, >> I should also add that the Tide-minders prevent any side movement in my >> relatively narrow slip. On the spring lines, I use heavy-duty snubbers (for >> up to 5/8? line) to give the boat some forward movement beyond the stretch >> of the lines. With the occasional excessive tides, I use the midship cleat >> adjustment along with the snubbers to keep the boat centered with tension, >> not just the extreme stretch of the spring lines. >> Jay >> >>> On Apr 22, 2020, at 1:58 PM, Jay Friedland wrote: >>> >>> Sean, >>> It all depends on the exposure to the elements. Mel & I are on the same >> island but completely different factors to deal with. Mel is fairly >> protected in a lagoon, so his lines are fine for that location. Wanderlust >> is in a narrow slip in a marina with a sea wall surrounding the boats. It >> has 11? of clearance, and exposed to high winds, some wave action and up to >> 2-1/2? of tidal change. While it?s not all visible in the attached photo >> (if it?s not stripped away), is the following, using all 1/2? lines- >>> >>> 1) bow lines to pilings at a 90? >>> 2) spring lines to adjustable midship cleats on 1? T-tracks, 30? of >> movement >>> 3) Tide-minders on each stern line >>> >>> I?ve been through over 12 seasons of squalls, glancing hurricanes, >> excessive tides and only have to worry about other people?s boats. The >> other advantage of midship cleats is the versatility of docking in many >> situations. I hope this helps. >>> >>> Jay Friedland >>> S/v Wanderlust, ?97 >>> >>> >>> >>> >>>> On Apr 22, 2020, at 1:22 PM, Sean Allen > > wrote: >>>> >>>> I'm launching my boat in to a new slip in a few weeks and I'm curious if >>>> and how other Rhodes owners use spring lines? Mine only has one bow >> cleat >>>> and two on the stern. >>>> >>>> I've heard of others using the grab rail on the bulk head mentioned. >>>> >>>> Has anyone installed additional cleats? Is that advisable? >>>> >>>> The marina is in tidal waters (Barnegat Bay) with quite a bit of wake >> on a >>>> daily basis. >>>> >>>> Sean >>> >> >> From jayf401 at gmail.com Wed Apr 22 17:25:28 2020 From: jayf401 at gmail.com (Jay Friedland) Date: Wed, 22 Apr 2020 17:25:28 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Spring Lines In-Reply-To: References: <379D4DD7-E316-44A4-9FA0-121C34E32793@gmail.com> <1587582768220-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <01EDBFD1-02A1-48F4-AF61-48FBD0B05228@gmail.com> <75CF1C18-1FAB-48F2-B7F5-EFA222D4F534@sunnybeeches.com> Message-ID: <993610D9-069D-43A5-BB33-445CEA1731D3@gmail.com> Peter, That is my recollection, a lot of drilling with a significant amount of fiberglass coming out of the pilot hole. Jay > On Apr 22, 2020, at 4:51 PM, Peter Nyberg wrote: > > Jay, > > The photo came through, and I can see the track mounted to your toe-rail. I can see the advantage, as it reduces clutter underfoot. I also notice a chock mounted to the toe-rail forward, so it would seem that perhaps the entire toe-rail is solid fiberglass, not just the area under the track. > > Thanks for sharing? > > ?Peter > > >> On Apr 22, 2020, at 4:41 PM, Jay Friedland wrote: >> >> Peter, >> Just trying to get a test photo through the server. >> >> I actually liked Stan's adjustable inboard sheeting system vs. the fixed >> cabin top cam cleat newer version. It is a tripping hazard and more >> expensive than the single cleat and fairlead, and not used often enough, >> but a good idea. >> >> On Wed, Apr 22, 2020 at 3:46 PM Peter Nyberg wrote: >> >>> Jay, >>> >>> I?m confused about your reply. You say you?re mounting your cleats on the >>> forward jib track, but you also say that the track is bolted to the >>> toe-rail. My forward jib tracks are mounted to the deck very close to the >>> cabin side (a little too close in fact). Also, in a discussion not too far >>> back someone (Graham I think) attached a photo showing that the toe-rails >>> on his R22 are hollow, not solid fiberglass. >>> >>> As to your problem with posting photos, it may have nothing to do with >>> format. The mail list software apparently doesn?t like the way that the >>> Mac email client program does attachments. Perhaps there are other email >>> client programs with similar issues. >>> >>> Peter Nyberg >>> Coventry, CT >>> s/v Silverheels (1988/2016) >>> >>>> On Apr 22, 2020, at 3:29 PM, Jay Friedland wrote: >>>> >>>> Jesse, >>>> I assume my photos of that got stripped away, I tried attaching them as >>> pdf?s. Any help from da list to format them correctly on that is >>> appreciated. >>>> >>>> My midship cleats are movable on a 1? T-track, same track as the jib >>> cars move on. As any tension is shearing against the mounting screws for >>> the track, I drilled and tapped 1-1/2?x1/4x20?s into the toerail. These >>> were installed when the boat was new 23 years ago, and there has been >>> extreme pressure fairly constantly from April through November storms, up >>> to 4? rolling waves with heavy tidal swings all through my time in less >>> safe slips. So they are stress tested. >>>> >>>> >>>>> On Apr 22, 2020, at 3:12 PM, Jesse Shumaker < >>> jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com> wrote: >>>>> >>>>> I assume the mid ship cleats may have been added by owners. My boat >>> does not >>>>> have any midship cleats so I have used the metal grab rails as Sean >>>>> mentioned. >>>>> >>>>> Does anyone have photos to show where exactly the midship cleats are >>>>> installed? When I installed chocks on my foredeck, I found that it was >>>>> hard to get to the underside of the toe rail, so I installed the chocks >>>>> further from the toe rail where I could access the bolts coming through. >>>>> >>>>> I assume a backing plate against the cabin roof would be needed when >>>>> installing the midship cleats. If anyone has examples of the mid ship >>> cleat >>>>> installation that would be good to share. >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> -- >>>>> Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ >>>> >>> >>> >> -------------- next part -------------- >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >> Name: R22.midship cleat, etc.png >> Type: image/png >> Size: 3979941 bytes >> Desc: not available >> URL: > From spreadgoodnews at gmail.com Wed Apr 22 17:36:55 2020 From: spreadgoodnews at gmail.com (Goodness) Date: Wed, 22 Apr 2020 17:36:55 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Spring Lines In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <0FE1FB6B-5147-4CC9-9AA3-E881015C13B1@gmail.com> I went with a mooring this year. Stan do you think the bow eye alone can hold? A noreaster is rolling into my anchorage tonight! ? > On Apr 22, 2020, at 5:01 PM, Sean Allen wrote: > > ?Thanks Jay (and all) as this has been really helpful. > > I've got 6 pilings in my slip. I was thinking of using two 3/8" bow lines > around each piling with snubbers both connected to the bow cleat, then two > 3/8" stern lines with snubbers each connected from the piling to each stern > cleat, and I think i might put spring cleats in approximately mid-ship by > the windows and run a 1/2" spring line with snubbers on each side (using > the grab rails temporarily). > > >> On Wed, Apr 22, 2020 at 2:15 PM Jay Friedland wrote: >> >> Sean, >> I should also add that the Tide-minders prevent any side movement in my >> relatively narrow slip. On the spring lines, I use heavy-duty snubbers (for >> up to 5/8? line) to give the boat some forward movement beyond the stretch >> of the lines. With the occasional excessive tides, I use the midship cleat >> adjustment along with the snubbers to keep the boat centered with tension, >> not just the extreme stretch of the spring lines. >> Jay >> >>>> On Apr 22, 2020, at 1:58 PM, Jay Friedland wrote: >>> >>> Sean, >>> It all depends on the exposure to the elements. Mel & I are on the same >> island but completely different factors to deal with. Mel is fairly >> protected in a lagoon, so his lines are fine for that location. Wanderlust >> is in a narrow slip in a marina with a sea wall surrounding the boats. It >> has 11? of clearance, and exposed to high winds, some wave action and up to >> 2-1/2? of tidal change. While it?s not all visible in the attached photo >> (if it?s not stripped away), is the following, using all 1/2? lines- >>> >>> 1) bow lines to pilings at a 90? >>> 2) spring lines to adjustable midship cleats on 1? T-tracks, 30? of >> movement >>> 3) Tide-minders on each stern line >>> >>> I?ve been through over 12 seasons of squalls, glancing hurricanes, >> excessive tides and only have to worry about other people?s boats. The >> other advantage of midship cleats is the versatility of docking in many >> situations. I hope this helps. >>> >>> Jay Friedland >>> S/v Wanderlust, ?97 >>> >>> >>> >>> >>>> On Apr 22, 2020, at 1:22 PM, Sean Allen > > wrote: >>>> >>>> I'm launching my boat in to a new slip in a few weeks and I'm curious if >>>> and how other Rhodes owners use spring lines? Mine only has one bow >> cleat >>>> and two on the stern. >>>> >>>> I've heard of others using the grab rail on the bulk head mentioned. >>>> >>>> Has anyone installed additional cleats? Is that advisable? >>>> >>>> The marina is in tidal waters (Barnegat Bay) with quite a bit of wake >> on a >>>> daily basis. >>>> >>>> Sean >>> >> >> From roger_pihlaja at msn.com Wed Apr 22 20:36:29 2020 From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA) Date: Thu, 23 Apr 2020 00:36:29 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Spring Lines In-Reply-To: <01EDBFD1-02A1-48F4-AF61-48FBD0B05228@gmail.com> References: <379D4DD7-E316-44A4-9FA0-121C34E32793@gmail.com> <1587582768220-0.post@n5.nabble.com>, <01EDBFD1-02A1-48F4-AF61-48FBD0B05228@gmail.com> Message-ID: [cid:image002.png at 01D618E5.B2F61F20] The attached image is from West Marine. I have a pair of these Schaefer Mid-Rail Cleats, one on each genoa track port & starboard. You can slide them wherever you need them to be. Roger Pihlaja S/V Dynamic Equilibrium Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Jay Friedland Sent: Wednesday, April 22, 2020 3:29 PM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Spring Lines Jesse, I assume my photos of that got stripped away, I tried attaching them as pdf?s. Any help from da list to format them correctly on that is appreciated. My midship cleats are movable on a 1? T-track, same track as the jib cars move on. As any tension is shearing against the mounting screws for the track, I drilled and tapped 1-1/2?x1/4x20?s into the toerail. These were installed when the boat was new 23 years ago, and there has been extreme pressure fairly constantly from April through November storms, up to 4? rolling waves with heavy tidal swings all through my time in less safe slips. So they are stress tested. > On Apr 22, 2020, at 3:12 PM, Jesse Shumaker wrote: > > I assume the mid ship cleats may have been added by owners. My boat does not > have any midship cleats so I have used the metal grab rails as Sean > mentioned. > > Does anyone have photos to show where exactly the midship cleats are > installed? When I installed chocks on my foredeck, I found that it was > hard to get to the underside of the toe rail, so I installed the chocks > further from the toe rail where I could access the bolts coming through. > > I assume a backing plate against the cabin roof would be needed when > installing the midship cleats. If anyone has examples of the mid ship cleat > installation that would be good to share. > > > > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: DED903CBDC6442AB918F393A93D16EC0.png Type: image/png Size: 158213 bytes Desc: DED903CBDC6442AB918F393A93D16EC0.png URL: From jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com Wed Apr 22 20:56:15 2020 From: jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com (JeffSmith) Date: Wed, 22 Apr 2020 17:56:15 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Rhode 22 Mast Bolt Dimensions In-Reply-To: References: <1587382137884-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1587564958645-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <1587603375099-0.post@n5.nabble.com> I tried to send an answer but Nabble nibbled it. I will do tomorrow, Thursday. ----- Jeff Smith 2009 R22 #101 RADIANT Atlantic Highlands Municpal Harbor Atlantic Highlands, NJ -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From peter at sunnybeeches.com Wed Apr 22 21:11:33 2020 From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg) Date: Wed, 22 Apr 2020 21:11:33 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Spring Lines In-Reply-To: References: <379D4DD7-E316-44A4-9FA0-121C34E32793@gmail.com> <1587582768220-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <01EDBFD1-02A1-48F4-AF61-48FBD0B05228@gmail.com> Message-ID: <2DA0FE86-708A-449A-A99D-F649B30F408D@sunnybeeches.com> I bought the same cleats recently. Roger?s image shows West Marine selling them for $140 each. Defender lists them for $108 each (item # 614226). ?Peter > On Apr 22, 2020, at 8:36 PM, ROGER PIHLAJA wrote: > > [cid:image002.png at 01D618E5.B2F61F20] > > The attached image is from West Marine. I have a pair of these Schaefer Mid-Rail Cleats, one on each genoa track port & starboard. You can slide them wherever you need them to be. > > Roger Pihlaja > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium > > Sent from Mail for Windows 10 > > From: Jay Friedland > Sent: Wednesday, April 22, 2020 3:29 PM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Spring Lines > > Jesse, > I assume my photos of that got stripped away, I tried attaching them as pdf?s. Any help from da list to format them correctly on that is appreciated. > > My midship cleats are movable on a 1? T-track, same track as the jib cars move on. As any tension is shearing against the mounting screws for the track, I drilled and tapped 1-1/2?x1/4x20?s into the toerail. These were installed when the boat was new 23 years ago, and there has been extreme pressure fairly constantly from April through November storms, up to 4? rolling waves with heavy tidal swings all through my time in less safe slips. So they are stress tested. > > >> On Apr 22, 2020, at 3:12 PM, Jesse Shumaker wrote: >> >> I assume the mid ship cleats may have been added by owners. My boat does not >> have any midship cleats so I have used the metal grab rails as Sean >> mentioned. >> >> Does anyone have photos to show where exactly the midship cleats are >> installed? When I installed chocks on my foredeck, I found that it was >> hard to get to the underside of the toe rail, so I installed the chocks >> further from the toe rail where I could access the bolts coming through. >> >> I assume a backing plate against the cabin roof would be needed when >> installing the midship cleats. If anyone has examples of the mid ship cleat >> installation that would be good to share. >> >> >> >> -- >> Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: DED903CBDC6442AB918F393A93D16EC0.png > Type: image/png > Size: 158213 bytes > Desc: DED903CBDC6442AB918F393A93D16EC0.png > URL: From robert at pamayared.com Wed Apr 22 22:26:50 2020 From: robert at pamayared.com (robert51) Date: Wed, 22 Apr 2020 19:26:50 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Pop top enclosure In-Reply-To: References: <1579116012732-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <1587608810991-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Hey Everyone, Still searching for a new or used pop top enclosure for 2012 Rhodes. Emailed Stan, but he still doesn't have one. Hopefully will be sailing this season and would like to get one. Thanks Robert -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From snstaum at gmail.com Thu Apr 23 06:23:50 2020 From: snstaum at gmail.com (Stephen Staum) Date: Thu, 23 Apr 2020 06:23:50 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Pop top enclosure In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Yes. I have it. Now I just have to find a washer I can fit it in and get it cleaned up. Stay tuned... Stay Safe, *Stephen Staum* *s/v Carol Lee 2* On Thu, Apr 9, 2020 at 1:47 PM Robert@ Pamaya Red wrote: > Hey stephen, > Have you found the pop top yet? > > On Tue, Mar 31, 2020, 11:15 AM Robert@ Pamaya Red > wrote: > > > Great, let me know when you find it > > Robert > > > > On Sun, Mar 29, 2020 at 1:39 PM Stephen Staum wrote: > > > >> Robert, > >> > >> I have a dumpster coming tomorrow & cleanup begins. Stay tuned. > >> > >> Stephen Staum > >> s/v Carol Lee 2 > >> Needham, MA > >> > >> On Fri, Mar 27, 2020 at 8:32 PM Robert@ Pamaya Red < > robert at pamayared.com> > >> wrote: > >> > >> > Hey Steven > >> > Hope all is well with you. > >> > Thought that since most of us are home these days, did you have time > to > >> > look for the pop top enclosure. I realize might not be putting boats > in > >> the > >> > water until this virus ends or at least lightens up, but would like to > >> buy > >> > it from you when you find it. > >> > Thanks and stay safe > >> > Robert > >> > > >> > On Fri, Jan 17, 2020, 6:27 AM Stephen Staum > wrote: > >> > > >> > > I should have an extra pop top cover as I got one with each R22. > >> Give me > >> > > some time to dig through my debris. > >> > > > >> > > > >> > > *Stephen Staum* > >> > > *s/v Carol Lee 2* > >> > > > >> > > *Needham, MA* > >> > > > >> > > > >> > > On Wed, Jan 15, 2020 at 2:18 PM robert51 > >> wrote: > >> > > > >> > > > Looking for new or used pop top enclosure for 2012 Rhodes. Not > sure > >> if > >> > > year > >> > > > means anything but would like to find one by April > >> > > > > >> > > > > >> > > > > >> > > > -- > >> > > > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > >> > > > > >> > > > >> > > >> -- > >> Stephen Staum > >> Pariser Industries, Inc. > >> > > > From robert at pamayared.com Thu Apr 23 07:00:41 2020 From: robert at pamayared.com (Robert@ Pamaya Red) Date: Thu, 23 Apr 2020 07:00:41 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Pop top enclosure In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Thats great Thank you On Thu, Apr 23, 2020, 6:24 AM Stephen Staum wrote: > Yes. I have it. Now I just have to find a washer I can fit it in and get > it cleaned up. > > Stay tuned... > > Stay Safe, > > *Stephen Staum* > > *s/v Carol Lee 2* > > > On Thu, Apr 9, 2020 at 1:47 PM Robert@ Pamaya Red > wrote: > > > Hey stephen, > > Have you found the pop top yet? > > > > On Tue, Mar 31, 2020, 11:15 AM Robert@ Pamaya Red > > wrote: > > > > > Great, let me know when you find it > > > Robert > > > > > > On Sun, Mar 29, 2020 at 1:39 PM Stephen Staum > wrote: > > > > > >> Robert, > > >> > > >> I have a dumpster coming tomorrow & cleanup begins. Stay tuned. > > >> > > >> Stephen Staum > > >> s/v Carol Lee 2 > > >> Needham, MA > > >> > > >> On Fri, Mar 27, 2020 at 8:32 PM Robert@ Pamaya Red < > > robert at pamayared.com> > > >> wrote: > > >> > > >> > Hey Steven > > >> > Hope all is well with you. > > >> > Thought that since most of us are home these days, did you have time > > to > > >> > look for the pop top enclosure. I realize might not be putting boats > > in > > >> the > > >> > water until this virus ends or at least lightens up, but would like > to > > >> buy > > >> > it from you when you find it. > > >> > Thanks and stay safe > > >> > Robert > > >> > > > >> > On Fri, Jan 17, 2020, 6:27 AM Stephen Staum > > wrote: > > >> > > > >> > > I should have an extra pop top cover as I got one with each R22. > > >> Give me > > >> > > some time to dig through my debris. > > >> > > > > >> > > > > >> > > *Stephen Staum* > > >> > > *s/v Carol Lee 2* > > >> > > > > >> > > *Needham, MA* > > >> > > > > >> > > > > >> > > On Wed, Jan 15, 2020 at 2:18 PM robert51 > > >> wrote: > > >> > > > > >> > > > Looking for new or used pop top enclosure for 2012 Rhodes. Not > > sure > > >> if > > >> > > year > > >> > > > means anything but would like to find one by April > > >> > > > > > >> > > > > > >> > > > > > >> > > > -- > > >> > > > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > > >> > > > > > >> > > > > >> > > > >> -- > > >> Stephen Staum > > >> Pariser Industries, Inc. > > >> > > > > > > From rlowe at vt.edu Thu Apr 23 09:02:23 2020 From: rlowe at vt.edu (Lowe, Rob) Date: Thu, 23 Apr 2020 13:02:23 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Spring Lines In-Reply-To: <0FE1FB6B-5147-4CC9-9AA3-E881015C13B1@gmail.com> References: , <0FE1FB6B-5147-4CC9-9AA3-E881015C13B1@gmail.com> Message-ID: I can't speak for Stan, but I've never heard of a bow eye on the Rhodes giving way. Still doesn't mean it can't happen. I'd inspect the backing plate up in the V berth next time you can and see if it's snug and looks adequate. - rob ________________________________ From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of Goodness Sent: Wednesday, April 22, 2020 5:36 PM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Spring Lines I went with a mooring this year. Stan do you think the bow eye alone can hold? A noreaster is rolling into my anchorage tonight! ? > On Apr 22, 2020, at 5:01 PM, Sean Allen wrote: > > ?Thanks Jay (and all) as this has been really helpful. > > I've got 6 pilings in my slip. I was thinking of using two 3/8" bow lines > around each piling with snubbers both connected to the bow cleat, then two > 3/8" stern lines with snubbers each connected from the piling to each stern > cleat, and I think i might put spring cleats in approximately mid-ship by > the windows and run a 1/2" spring line with snubbers on each side (using > the grab rails temporarily). > > >> On Wed, Apr 22, 2020 at 2:15 PM Jay Friedland wrote: >> >> Sean, >> I should also add that the Tide-minders prevent any side movement in my >> relatively narrow slip. On the spring lines, I use heavy-duty snubbers (for >> up to 5/8? line) to give the boat some forward movement beyond the stretch >> of the lines. With the occasional excessive tides, I use the midship cleat >> adjustment along with the snubbers to keep the boat centered with tension, >> not just the extreme stretch of the spring lines. >> Jay >> >>>> On Apr 22, 2020, at 1:58 PM, Jay Friedland wrote: >>> >>> Sean, >>> It all depends on the exposure to the elements. Mel & I are on the same >> island but completely different factors to deal with. Mel is fairly >> protected in a lagoon, so his lines are fine for that location. Wanderlust >> is in a narrow slip in a marina with a sea wall surrounding the boats. It >> has 11? of clearance, and exposed to high winds, some wave action and up to >> 2-1/2? of tidal change. While it?s not all visible in the attached photo >> (if it?s not stripped away), is the following, using all 1/2? lines- >>> >>> 1) bow lines to pilings at a 90? >>> 2) spring lines to adjustable midship cleats on 1? T-tracks, 30? of >> movement >>> 3) Tide-minders on each stern line >>> >>> I?ve been through over 12 seasons of squalls, glancing hurricanes, >> excessive tides and only have to worry about other people?s boats. The >> other advantage of midship cleats is the versatility of docking in many >> situations. I hope this helps. >>> >>> Jay Friedland >>> S/v Wanderlust, ?97 >>> >>> >>> >>> >>>> On Apr 22, 2020, at 1:22 PM, Sean Allen > > wrote: >>>> >>>> I'm launching my boat in to a new slip in a few weeks and I'm curious if >>>> and how other Rhodes owners use spring lines? Mine only has one bow >> cleat >>>> and two on the stern. >>>> >>>> I've heard of others using the grab rail on the bulk head mentioned. >>>> >>>> Has anyone installed additional cleats? Is that advisable? >>>> >>>> The marina is in tidal waters (Barnegat Bay) with quite a bit of wake >> on a >>>> daily basis. >>>> >>>> Sean >>> >> >> From gstewart8 at cogeco.ca Thu Apr 23 09:43:57 2020 From: gstewart8 at cogeco.ca (Graham Stewart) Date: Thu, 23 Apr 2020 09:43:57 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Spring Lines In-Reply-To: References: <0FE1FB6B-5147-4CC9-9AA3-E881015C13B1@gmail.com> Message-ID: <026501d61975$3f6e9c90$be4bd5b0$@ca> Personally I prefer to not use the bow eye for mooring. For one thing it is difficult to reach the bow eye if you have old knees. I prefer to rune two nylon lines from the mooring through the chocks and to the bow cleat. It is much easier to attach and release and gives you two lines instead of one. I have no doubt that either the eye or the cleat is plenty strong. Whichever you use do not connect the boat to the mooring with chain. Graham Stewart Agile 1976 Rhodes 22 Kingston Ontario -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Lowe, Rob Sent: Thursday, April 23, 2020 9:02 AM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Spring Lines I can't speak for Stan, but I've never heard of a bow eye on the Rhodes giving way. Still doesn't mean it can't happen. I'd inspect the backing plate up in the V berth next time you can and see if it's snug and looks adequate. - rob ________________________________ From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of Goodness Sent: Wednesday, April 22, 2020 5:36 PM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Spring Lines I went with a mooring this year. Stan do you think the bow eye alone can hold? A noreaster is rolling into my anchorage tonight! ? > On Apr 22, 2020, at 5:01 PM, Sean Allen wrote: > > ?Thanks Jay (and all) as this has been really helpful. > > I've got 6 pilings in my slip. I was thinking of using two 3/8" bow lines > around each piling with snubbers both connected to the bow cleat, then two > 3/8" stern lines with snubbers each connected from the piling to each stern > cleat, and I think i might put spring cleats in approximately mid-ship by > the windows and run a 1/2" spring line with snubbers on each side (using > the grab rails temporarily). > > >> On Wed, Apr 22, 2020 at 2:15 PM Jay Friedland wrote: >> >> Sean, >> I should also add that the Tide-minders prevent any side movement in my >> relatively narrow slip. On the spring lines, I use heavy-duty snubbers (for >> up to 5/8? line) to give the boat some forward movement beyond the stretch >> of the lines. With the occasional excessive tides, I use the midship cleat >> adjustment along with the snubbers to keep the boat centered with tension, >> not just the extreme stretch of the spring lines. >> Jay >> >>>> On Apr 22, 2020, at 1:58 PM, Jay Friedland wrote: >>> >>> Sean, >>> It all depends on the exposure to the elements. Mel & I are on the same >> island but completely different factors to deal with. Mel is fairly >> protected in a lagoon, so his lines are fine for that location. Wanderlust >> is in a narrow slip in a marina with a sea wall surrounding the boats. It >> has 11? of clearance, and exposed to high winds, some wave action and up to >> 2-1/2? of tidal change. While it?s not all visible in the attached photo >> (if it?s not stripped away), is the following, using all 1/2? lines- >>> >>> 1) bow lines to pilings at a 90? >>> 2) spring lines to adjustable midship cleats on 1? T-tracks, 30? of >> movement >>> 3) Tide-minders on each stern line >>> >>> I?ve been through over 12 seasons of squalls, glancing hurricanes, >> excessive tides and only have to worry about other people?s boats. The >> other advantage of midship cleats is the versatility of docking in many >> situations. I hope this helps. >>> >>> Jay Friedland >>> S/v Wanderlust, ?97 >>> >>> >>> >>> >>>> On Apr 22, 2020, at 1:22 PM, Sean Allen > > wrote: >>>> >>>> I'm launching my boat in to a new slip in a few weeks and I'm curious if >>>> and how other Rhodes owners use spring lines? Mine only has one bow >> cleat >>>> and two on the stern. >>>> >>>> I've heard of others using the grab rail on the bulk head mentioned. >>>> >>>> Has anyone installed additional cleats? Is that advisable? >>>> >>>> The marina is in tidal waters (Barnegat Bay) with quite a bit of wake >> on a >>>> daily basis. >>>> >>>> Sean >>> >> >> From stan at generalboats.com Thu Apr 23 09:52:43 2020 From: stan at generalboats.com (stan) Date: Thu, 23 Apr 2020 09:52:43 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Spring Lines In-Reply-To: References: <0FE1FB6B-5147-4CC9-9AA3-E881015C13B1@gmail.com> Message-ID: <5b3ceb73-5465-f3e9-2d25-38f4baff3a3e@generalboats.com> Yes you can Rob, Go to http://www.rhodes22parts.com/services-1.html Third picture down is a loaded Rhodes levitating.? In case you can not see how it can manage thissleight of hand feat, it is thanks to the Bow Eye. On 4/23/20 9:02 AM, Lowe, Rob wrote: > I can't speak for Stan, but I've never heard of a bow eye on the Rhodes giving way. Still doesn't mean it can't happen. I'd inspect the backing plate up in the V berth next time you can and see if it's snug and looks adequate. - rob > > From a_czerwonky at yahoo.com Thu Apr 23 10:03:10 2020 From: a_czerwonky at yahoo.com (Art Czerwonky) Date: Thu, 23 Apr 2020 14:03:10 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Spring Lines In-Reply-To: <026501d61975$3f6e9c90$be4bd5b0$@ca> References: <0FE1FB6B-5147-4CC9-9AA3-E881015C13B1@gmail.com> <026501d61975$3f6e9c90$be4bd5b0$@ca> Message-ID: <88870679.204302.1587650590197@mail.yahoo.com> I agree fully with your recommendation, Graham. The bow eye is not suitable for the shock loads of mooring.??Art CzerwonkyMaryJane, Atlanta Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android On Thu, Apr 23, 2020 at 9:44 AM, Graham Stewart wrote: Personally I prefer to not use the bow eye for mooring. For one thing it is difficult to reach the bow eye if you have old knees. I prefer to rune two nylon lines from the mooring through the chocks and to the bow cleat. It is much easier to attach and release and gives you two lines instead of one. I have no doubt that either the eye or the cleat is plenty strong. Whichever you use do not connect the boat to the mooring with chain. Graham Stewart Agile 1976 Rhodes 22 Kingston Ontario -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Lowe, Rob Sent: Thursday, April 23, 2020 9:02 AM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Spring Lines I can't speak for Stan, but I've never heard of a bow eye on the Rhodes giving way.? Still doesn't mean it can't happen.? I'd inspect the backing plate up in the V berth next time you can and see if it's snug and looks adequate.? - rob ________________________________ From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of Goodness Sent: Wednesday, April 22, 2020 5:36 PM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Spring Lines I went with a mooring this year.? Stan do you think the bow eye alone can hold? A noreaster is rolling into my anchorage tonight! ? > On Apr 22, 2020, at 5:01 PM, Sean Allen wrote: > > ?Thanks Jay (and all) as this has been really helpful. > > I've got 6 pilings in my slip. I was thinking of using two 3/8" bow lines > around each piling with snubbers both connected to the bow cleat, then two > 3/8" stern lines with snubbers each connected from the piling to each stern > cleat, and I think i might put spring cleats in approximately mid-ship by > the windows and run a 1/2" spring line with snubbers on each side (using > the grab rails temporarily). > > >> On Wed, Apr 22, 2020 at 2:15 PM Jay Friedland wrote: >> >> Sean, >> I should also add that the Tide-minders prevent any side movement in my >> relatively narrow slip. On the spring lines, I use heavy-duty snubbers (for >> up to 5/8? line) to give the boat some forward movement beyond the stretch >> of the lines. With the occasional excessive tides, I use the midship cleat >> adjustment along with the snubbers to keep the boat centered with tension, >> not just the extreme stretch of the spring lines. >> Jay >> >>>> On Apr 22, 2020, at 1:58 PM, Jay Friedland wrote: >>> >>> Sean, >>> It all depends on the exposure to the elements. Mel & I are on the same >> island but completely different factors to deal with. Mel is fairly >> protected in a lagoon, so his lines are fine for that location. Wanderlust >> is in a? narrow slip in a marina with a sea wall surrounding the boats. It >> has 11? of clearance, and exposed to high winds, some wave action and up to >> 2-1/2? of tidal change. While it?s not all visible in the attached photo >> (if it?s not stripped away), is the following, using all 1/2? lines- >>> >>> 1) bow lines to pilings at a 90? >>> 2) spring lines to adjustable midship cleats on 1? T-tracks, 30? of >> movement >>> 3) Tide-minders on each stern line >>> >>> I?ve been through over 12 seasons of squalls, glancing hurricanes, >> excessive tides and only have to worry about other people?s boats. The >> other advantage of midship cleats is the versatility of docking in many >> situations. I hope this helps. >>> >>> Jay Friedland >>> S/v Wanderlust, ?97 >>> >>> >>> >>> >>>> On Apr 22, 2020, at 1:22 PM, Sean Allen > > wrote: >>>> >>>> I'm launching my boat in to a new slip in a few weeks and I'm curious if >>>> and how other Rhodes owners use spring lines? Mine only has one bow >> cleat >>>> and two on the stern. >>>> >>>> I've heard of others using the grab rail on the bulk head mentioned. >>>> >>>> Has anyone installed additional cleats? Is that advisable? >>>> >>>> The marina is in tidal waters (Barnegat Bay) with quite a bit of wake >> on a >>>> daily basis. >>>> >>>> Sean >>> >> >> From rlowe at vt.edu Thu Apr 23 10:16:07 2020 From: rlowe at vt.edu (Lowe, Rob) Date: Thu, 23 Apr 2020 14:16:07 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Spring Lines In-Reply-To: <88870679.204302.1587650590197@mail.yahoo.com> References: <0FE1FB6B-5147-4CC9-9AA3-E881015C13B1@gmail.com> <026501d61975$3f6e9c90$be4bd5b0$@ca>, <88870679.204302.1587650590197@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I must say I read that wrong. Even though I responded bow eye, I was thinking bow cleat. I agree with Graham's method using two lines running through the chocks to the bow cleat. - rob ________________________________ From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of Art Czerwonky via Rhodes22-list Sent: Thursday, April 23, 2020 10:03 AM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Spring Lines I agree fully with your recommendation, Graham. The bow eye is not suitable for the shock loads of mooring. Art CzerwonkyMaryJane, Atlanta Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android On Thu, Apr 23, 2020 at 9:44 AM, Graham Stewart wrote: Personally I prefer to not use the bow eye for mooring. For one thing it is difficult to reach the bow eye if you have old knees. I prefer to rune two nylon lines from the mooring through the chocks and to the bow cleat. It is much easier to attach and release and gives you two lines instead of one. I have no doubt that either the eye or the cleat is plenty strong. Whichever you use do not connect the boat to the mooring with chain. Graham Stewart Agile 1976 Rhodes 22 Kingston Ontario -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Lowe, Rob Sent: Thursday, April 23, 2020 9:02 AM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Spring Lines I can't speak for Stan, but I've never heard of a bow eye on the Rhodes giving way. Still doesn't mean it can't happen. I'd inspect the backing plate up in the V berth next time you can and see if it's snug and looks adequate. - rob ________________________________ From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of Goodness Sent: Wednesday, April 22, 2020 5:36 PM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Spring Lines I went with a mooring this year. Stan do you think the bow eye alone can hold? A noreaster is rolling into my anchorage tonight! ? > On Apr 22, 2020, at 5:01 PM, Sean Allen wrote: > > ?Thanks Jay (and all) as this has been really helpful. > > I've got 6 pilings in my slip. I was thinking of using two 3/8" bow lines > around each piling with snubbers both connected to the bow cleat, then two > 3/8" stern lines with snubbers each connected from the piling to each stern > cleat, and I think i might put spring cleats in approximately mid-ship by > the windows and run a 1/2" spring line with snubbers on each side (using > the grab rails temporarily). > > >> On Wed, Apr 22, 2020 at 2:15 PM Jay Friedland wrote: >> >> Sean, >> I should also add that the Tide-minders prevent any side movement in my >> relatively narrow slip. On the spring lines, I use heavy-duty snubbers (for >> up to 5/8? line) to give the boat some forward movement beyond the stretch >> of the lines. With the occasional excessive tides, I use the midship cleat >> adjustment along with the snubbers to keep the boat centered with tension, >> not just the extreme stretch of the spring lines. >> Jay >> >>>> On Apr 22, 2020, at 1:58 PM, Jay Friedland wrote: >>> >>> Sean, >>> It all depends on the exposure to the elements. Mel & I are on the same >> island but completely different factors to deal with. Mel is fairly >> protected in a lagoon, so his lines are fine for that location. Wanderlust >> is in a narrow slip in a marina with a sea wall surrounding the boats. It >> has 11? of clearance, and exposed to high winds, some wave action and up to >> 2-1/2? of tidal change. While it?s not all visible in the attached photo >> (if it?s not stripped away), is the following, using all 1/2? lines- >>> >>> 1) bow lines to pilings at a 90? >>> 2) spring lines to adjustable midship cleats on 1? T-tracks, 30? of >> movement >>> 3) Tide-minders on each stern line >>> >>> I?ve been through over 12 seasons of squalls, glancing hurricanes, >> excessive tides and only have to worry about other people?s boats. The >> other advantage of midship cleats is the versatility of docking in many >> situations. I hope this helps. >>> >>> Jay Friedland >>> S/v Wanderlust, ?97 >>> >>> >>> >>> >>>> On Apr 22, 2020, at 1:22 PM, Sean Allen > > wrote: >>>> >>>> I'm launching my boat in to a new slip in a few weeks and I'm curious if >>>> and how other Rhodes owners use spring lines? Mine only has one bow >> cleat >>>> and two on the stern. >>>> >>>> I've heard of others using the grab rail on the bulk head mentioned. >>>> >>>> Has anyone installed additional cleats? Is that advisable? >>>> >>>> The marina is in tidal waters (Barnegat Bay) with quite a bit of wake >> on a >>>> daily basis. >>>> >>>> Sean >>> >> >> From jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com Thu Apr 23 10:18:17 2020 From: jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com (JeffSmith) Date: Thu, 23 Apr 2020 07:18:17 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Rhode 22 Mast Bolt Dimensions In-Reply-To: <1587603375099-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1587382137884-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1587564958645-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1587603375099-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <1587651497232-0.post@n5.nabble.com> The boom vang I have has blocks similar to these from Garhauer: ? Attached to the (2) 6" x 1.5" straps with 1/2"grommets at each end , which are attached to the 3/8-16 x 4.5 mast bolt is: ? Attached to the boom bale (I used different, but this is cheaper and should work): which is through bolted. ? The top block is similar to: This block does not come with a snap shackle, but other manufacturers may. Garhaur is very accommodating about modifying their equipment and will probably add a snap shackle if requested. I used 5/16" line for the 3:1 purchase, which (like the blocks) I had lying around. Since the vang can only be used with the pop top down and can also be used as a preventer by having a third double grommet-ed strap which wraps around the cabin top hand rail - having the snap shackles on both ends is a real convenience. Many thanks to all the R22-ers on this forum from whom I have borrowed heavily! ----- Jeff Smith 2009 R22 #101 RADIANT Atlantic Highlands Municpal Harbor Atlantic Highlands, NJ -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From jayf401 at gmail.com Thu Apr 23 10:28:33 2020 From: jayf401 at gmail.com (Jay Friedland) Date: Thu, 23 Apr 2020 10:28:33 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Rhode 22 Mast Bolt Dimensions In-Reply-To: <1587651497232-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1587382137884-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1587564958645-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1587603375099-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1587651497232-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: Jeff, & list, This whole assembly was purchased from Garhauer complete several years ago, at less than the individual parts. On Apr 23, 2020, at 10:18 AM, JeffSmith wrote: The boom vang I have has blocks similar to these from Garhauer: ? Attached to the (2) 6" x 1.5" straps with 1/2"grommets at each end , which are attached to the 3/8-16 x 4.5 mast bolt is: < https://www.garhauermarine.com/fiddle-block-with-cam-cleat-and-shackle-25-05-us.html > ? Attached to the boom bale (I used different, but this is cheaper and should work): which is through bolted. ? The top block is similar to: < https://www.garhauermarine.com/fiddle-block-with-cam-cleat-and-shackle-25-05-us.html > This block does not come with a snap shackle, but other manufacturers may. Garhaur is very accommodating about modifying their equipment and will probably add a snap shackle if requested. I used 5/16" line for the 3:1 purchase, which (like the blocks) I had lying around. Since the vang can only be used with the pop top down and can also be used as a preventer by having a third double grommet-ed strap which wraps around the cabin top hand rail - having the snap shackles on both ends is a real convenience. Many thanks to all the R22-ers on this forum from whom I have borrowed heavily! ----- Jeff Smith 2009 R22 #101 RADIANT Atlantic Highlands Municpal Harbor Atlantic Highlands, NJ -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Boom Vang complete.png Type: image/png Size: 290908 bytes Desc: not available URL: From gramille at tds.net Thu Apr 23 10:47:00 2020 From: gramille at tds.net (gramille) Date: Thu, 23 Apr 2020 07:47:00 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Rhode 22 Mast Bolt Dimensions In-Reply-To: <1587651497232-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1587382137884-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1587564958645-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1587603375099-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1587651497232-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <1587653220489-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Many thanks Jeff and Jay, Graham -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com Thu Apr 23 11:00:47 2020 From: jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com (JeffSmith) Date: Thu, 23 Apr 2020 08:00:47 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Rhode 22 Mast Bolt Dimensions In-Reply-To: References: <1587382137884-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1587564958645-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1587603375099-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1587651497232-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <1587654047443-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Does Garhauer still offer it? I couldn't find it on their website. ----- Jeff Smith 2009 R22 #101 RADIANT Atlantic Highlands Municpal Harbor Atlantic Highlands, NJ -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From jayf401 at gmail.com Thu Apr 23 11:07:07 2020 From: jayf401 at gmail.com (Jay Friedland) Date: Thu, 23 Apr 2020 11:07:07 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Rhode 22 Mast Bolt Dimensions In-Reply-To: <1587654047443-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1587382137884-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1587564958645-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1587603375099-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1587651497232-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1587654047443-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: Several years ago (5-6+) at the boat show, they showed how the different components worked together. This was one, and they said it was available although not listed in their catalog (remember paper catalogs?). They are more flexible than other sail hardware mfrs., so I would ask them directly to quote you the whole assembly, not just what you see. Jay > On Apr 23, 2020, at 11:00 AM, JeffSmith wrote: > > Does Garhauer still offer it? I couldn't find it on their website. > > > > ----- > Jeff Smith > 2009 R22 #101 RADIANT > Atlantic Highlands Municpal Harbor > Atlantic Highlands, NJ > > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From sloopblueheron at gmail.com Thu Apr 23 11:31:42 2020 From: sloopblueheron at gmail.com (Rick Lange) Date: Thu, 23 Apr 2020 11:31:42 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Spring Lines In-Reply-To: References: <379D4DD7-E316-44A4-9FA0-121C34E32793@gmail.com> <1587582768220-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <01EDBFD1-02A1-48F4-AF61-48FBD0B05228@gmail.com> Message-ID: We have a confusion of terms here. A *spring line* is used to stop a boat as it comes into the dock. It may also be used to dampen motion of the boat in a slip exposed to excess wind and waves. Since there needs to be extra spring in a spring line, usually nylon stranded anchor rode is used. But it will stretch and deteriorate in the sun over the season. A *dock line*, which I think we are talking about here, is used to keep a boat tied up to the dock. Since you want it easy to handle, looking good and not having to be adjusted in length during the season, uv resistant nylon braid or polyester sheeted nylon braid is best to use. Regards, Rick Lange On Wed, Apr 22, 2020 at 8:36 PM ROGER PIHLAJA wrote: > [cid:image002.png at 01D618E5.B2F61F20] > > The attached image is from West Marine. I have a pair of these Schaefer > Mid-Rail Cleats, one on each genoa track port & starboard. You can slide > them wherever you need them to be. > > Roger Pihlaja > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > > From: Jay Friedland > Sent: Wednesday, April 22, 2020 3:29 PM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Spring Lines > > Jesse, > I assume my photos of that got stripped away, I tried attaching them as > pdf?s. Any help from da list to format them correctly on that is > appreciated. > > My midship cleats are movable on a 1? T-track, same track as the jib cars > move on. As any tension is shearing against the mounting screws for the > track, I drilled and tapped 1-1/2?x1/4x20?s into the toerail. These were > installed when the boat was new 23 years ago, and there has been extreme > pressure fairly constantly from April through November storms, up to 4? > rolling waves with heavy tidal swings all through my time in less safe > slips. So they are stress tested. > > > > On Apr 22, 2020, at 3:12 PM, Jesse Shumaker < > jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com> wrote: > > > > I assume the mid ship cleats may have been added by owners. My boat > does not > > have any midship cleats so I have used the metal grab rails as Sean > > mentioned. > > > > Does anyone have photos to show where exactly the midship cleats are > > installed? When I installed chocks on my foredeck, I found that it was > > hard to get to the underside of the toe rail, so I installed the chocks > > further from the toe rail where I could access the bolts coming through. > > > > I assume a backing plate against the cabin roof would be needed when > > installing the midship cleats. If anyone has examples of the mid ship > cleat > > installation that would be good to share. > > > > > > > > -- > > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: DED903CBDC6442AB918F393A93D16EC0.png > Type: image/png > Size: 158213 bytes > Desc: DED903CBDC6442AB918F393A93D16EC0.png > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200423/ca270f73/attachment.png > > > From roger_pihlaja at msn.com Thu Apr 23 17:51:59 2020 From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA) Date: Thu, 23 Apr 2020 21:51:59 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Bow Eye vs. Bow Cleat? In-Reply-To: References: <0FE1FB6B-5147-4CC9-9AA3-E881015C13B1@gmail.com> <026501d61975$3f6e9c90$be4bd5b0$@ca>, <88870679.204302.1587650590197@mail.yahoo.com>, Message-ID: Hi All, There is a real advantage to rigging the anchor line thru the bow eye vs. directly to the bow cleat. The choice of the bow eye vs. the bow cleat has a significant effect on the anchor scope. This is because the bow eye is ~1.5 ft closer to the water vs the bow cleat. For example, suppose we are anchoring in 7 feet of water. The bow eye is ~2 feet above the water and the bow cleat is ~3.5 feet above the water. Suppose we let out 65 feet of anchor rode. The scope using the bow eye is 65 / (7 + 2) = 7.2 The scope using the bow cleat is 65 / (7 + 3.5) = 6.2 A scope of 7.2 is sufficient for decent overnight holding with a minimum 65 foot radius swing circle. A scope of 6.2 is marginal for an overnight night stay. Sometimes, there isn?t sufficient swing room to let out more anchor rode, say if you are the last boat to drop the hook in a crowded anchorage. In addition, it?s considered bad anchoring etiquette to use up all the swing room in an anchorage even if you are the first one there. Fortunately, you don?t have to tie off to the bow eye in order to get the scope advantage of using it. Simply run the anchor rode thru the bow eye first, then up to the bow cleat, and cleat it off. This will give you all the scope advantage of using the bow eye and all the ease of tying off to the bow cleat. When departing, reach down and hook the anchor rode with a boat hook below the bow eye. Pull the anchor rode on board, hang on to it, and then uncleat the rode from the bow cleat. Easy peasy and no stress on the knees! I always use the bow eye in the manner described above. There is just no reason not to, the extra safety margin on scope helps me sleep better, and I don?t annoy my fellow boaters. Roger Pihlaja S/V Dynamic Equilibrium Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Lowe, Rob Sent: Thursday, April 23, 2020 10:16 AM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List; Art Czerwonky Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Spring Lines I must say I read that wrong. Even though I responded bow eye, I was thinking bow cleat. I agree with Graham's method using two lines running through the chocks to the bow cleat. - rob ________________________________ From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of Art Czerwonky via Rhodes22-list Sent: Thursday, April 23, 2020 10:03 AM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Spring Lines I agree fully with your recommendation, Graham. The bow eye is not suitable for the shock loads of mooring. Art CzerwonkyMaryJane, Atlanta Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android On Thu, Apr 23, 2020 at 9:44 AM, Graham Stewart wrote: Personally I prefer to not use the bow eye for mooring. For one thing it is difficult to reach the bow eye if you have old knees. I prefer to rune two nylon lines from the mooring through the chocks and to the bow cleat. It is much easier to attach and release and gives you two lines instead of one. I have no doubt that either the eye or the cleat is plenty strong. Whichever you use do not connect the boat to the mooring with chain. Graham Stewart Agile 1976 Rhodes 22 Kingston Ontario -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Lowe, Rob Sent: Thursday, April 23, 2020 9:02 AM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Spring Lines I can't speak for Stan, but I've never heard of a bow eye on the Rhodes giving way. Still doesn't mean it can't happen. I'd inspect the backing plate up in the V berth next time you can and see if it's snug and looks adequate. - rob ________________________________ From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of Goodness Sent: Wednesday, April 22, 2020 5:36 PM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Spring Lines I went with a mooring this year. Stan do you think the bow eye alone can hold? A noreaster is rolling into my anchorage tonight! ? > On Apr 22, 2020, at 5:01 PM, Sean Allen wrote: > > ?Thanks Jay (and all) as this has been really helpful. > > I've got 6 pilings in my slip. I was thinking of using two 3/8" bow lines > around each piling with snubbers both connected to the bow cleat, then two > 3/8" stern lines with snubbers each connected from the piling to each stern > cleat, and I think i might put spring cleats in approximately mid-ship by > the windows and run a 1/2" spring line with snubbers on each side (using > the grab rails temporarily). > > >> On Wed, Apr 22, 2020 at 2:15 PM Jay Friedland wrote: >> >> Sean, >> I should also add that the Tide-minders prevent any side movement in my >> relatively narrow slip. On the spring lines, I use heavy-duty snubbers (for >> up to 5/8? line) to give the boat some forward movement beyond the stretch >> of the lines. With the occasional excessive tides, I use the midship cleat >> adjustment along with the snubbers to keep the boat centered with tension, >> not just the extreme stretch of the spring lines. >> Jay >> >>>> On Apr 22, 2020, at 1:58 PM, Jay Friedland wrote: >>> >>> Sean, >>> It all depends on the exposure to the elements. Mel & I are on the same >> island but completely different factors to deal with. Mel is fairly >> protected in a lagoon, so his lines are fine for that location. Wanderlust >> is in a narrow slip in a marina with a sea wall surrounding the boats. It >> has 11? of clearance, and exposed to high winds, some wave action and up to >> 2-1/2? of tidal change. While it?s not all visible in the attached photo >> (if it?s not stripped away), is the following, using all 1/2? lines- >>> >>> 1) bow lines to pilings at a 90? >>> 2) spring lines to adjustable midship cleats on 1? T-tracks, 30? of >> movement >>> 3) Tide-minders on each stern line >>> >>> I?ve been through over 12 seasons of squalls, glancing hurricanes, >> excessive tides and only have to worry about other people?s boats. The >> other advantage of midship cleats is the versatility of docking in many >> situations. I hope this helps. >>> >>> Jay Friedland >>> S/v Wanderlust, ?97 >>> >>> >>> >>> >>>> On Apr 22, 2020, at 1:22 PM, Sean Allen > > wrote: >>>> >>>> I'm launching my boat in to a new slip in a few weeks and I'm curious if >>>> and how other Rhodes owners use spring lines? Mine only has one bow >> cleat >>>> and two on the stern. >>>> >>>> I've heard of others using the grab rail on the bulk head mentioned. >>>> >>>> Has anyone installed additional cleats? Is that advisable? >>>> >>>> The marina is in tidal waters (Barnegat Bay) with quite a bit of wake >> on a >>>> daily basis. >>>> >>>> Sean >>> >> >> From tavares0947 at gmail.com Thu Apr 23 19:26:08 2020 From: tavares0947 at gmail.com (Todd Tavares) Date: Thu, 23 Apr 2020 19:26:08 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Bow Eye vs. Bow Cleat? In-Reply-To: References: <0FE1FB6B-5147-4CC9-9AA3-E881015C13B1@gmail.com> <026501d61975$3f6e9c90$be4bd5b0$@ca> <88870679.204302.1587650590197@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Roger, Didn't you link the backing plate of your bow deck cleat to the backing plate of the bow eye? Todd T. tavares0947 at gmail.com On Thu, Apr 23, 2020, 5:52 PM ROGER PIHLAJA wrote: > Hi All, > > There is a real advantage to rigging the anchor line thru the bow eye vs. > directly to the bow cleat. The choice of the bow eye vs. the bow cleat has > a significant effect on the anchor scope. This is because the bow eye is > ~1.5 ft closer to the water vs the bow cleat. For example, suppose we are > anchoring in 7 feet of water. The bow eye is ~2 feet above the water and > the bow cleat is ~3.5 feet above the water. Suppose we let out 65 feet of > anchor rode. The scope using the bow eye is 65 / (7 + 2) = 7.2 The scope > using the bow cleat is 65 / (7 + 3.5) = 6.2 A scope of 7.2 is sufficient > for decent overnight holding with a minimum 65 foot radius swing circle. A > scope of 6.2 is marginal for an overnight night stay. Sometimes, there > isn?t sufficient swing room to let out more anchor rode, say if you are the > last boat to drop the hook in a crowded anchorage. In addition, it?s > considered bad anchoring etiquette to use up all the swing room in an > anchorage even if you are the first one there. > > Fortunately, you don?t have to tie off to the bow eye in order to get the > scope advantage of using it. Simply run the anchor rode thru the bow eye > first, then up to the bow cleat, and cleat it off. This will give you all > the scope advantage of using the bow eye and all the ease of tying off to > the bow cleat. When departing, reach down and hook the anchor rode with a > boat hook below the bow eye. Pull the anchor rode on board, hang on to it, > and then uncleat the rode from the bow cleat. Easy peasy and no stress on > the knees! > > I always use the bow eye in the manner described above. There is just no > reason not to, the extra safety margin on scope helps me sleep better, and > I don?t annoy my fellow boaters. > > Roger Pihlaja > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > > From: Lowe, Rob > Sent: Thursday, April 23, 2020 10:16 AM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List; Art > Czerwonky > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Spring Lines > > I must say I read that wrong. Even though I responded bow eye, I was > thinking bow cleat. I agree with Graham's method using two lines running > through the chocks to the bow cleat. - rob > > ________________________________ > From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of Art > Czerwonky via Rhodes22-list > Sent: Thursday, April 23, 2020 10:03 AM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Spring Lines > > I agree fully with your recommendation, Graham. The bow eye is not > suitable for the shock loads of mooring. Art CzerwonkyMaryJane, Atlanta > Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android > > On Thu, Apr 23, 2020 at 9:44 AM, Graham Stewart > wrote: Personally I prefer to not use the bow eye for mooring. For one > thing it is difficult to reach the bow eye if you have old knees. I prefer > to rune two nylon lines from the mooring through the chocks and to the bow > cleat. It is much easier to attach and release and gives you two lines > instead of one. I have no doubt that either the eye or the cleat is plenty > strong. Whichever you use do not connect the boat to the mooring with chain. > > Graham Stewart > Agile 1976 Rhodes 22 > Kingston Ontario > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf > Of Lowe, Rob > Sent: Thursday, April 23, 2020 9:02 AM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Spring Lines > > I can't speak for Stan, but I've never heard of a bow eye on the Rhodes > giving way. Still doesn't mean it can't happen. I'd inspect the backing > plate up in the V berth next time you can and see if it's snug and looks > adequate. - rob > > ________________________________ > From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of > Goodness > Sent: Wednesday, April 22, 2020 5:36 PM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Spring Lines > > I went with a mooring this year. Stan do you think the bow eye alone can > hold? A noreaster is rolling into my anchorage tonight! > ? > > > On Apr 22, 2020, at 5:01 PM, Sean Allen wrote: > > > > ?Thanks Jay (and all) as this has been really helpful. > > > > I've got 6 pilings in my slip. I was thinking of using two 3/8" bow lines > > around each piling with snubbers both connected to the bow cleat, then > two > > 3/8" stern lines with snubbers each connected from the piling to each > stern > > cleat, and I think i might put spring cleats in approximately mid-ship by > > the windows and run a 1/2" spring line with snubbers on each side (using > > the grab rails temporarily). > > > > > >> On Wed, Apr 22, 2020 at 2:15 PM Jay Friedland > wrote: > >> > >> Sean, > >> I should also add that the Tide-minders prevent any side movement in my > >> relatively narrow slip. On the spring lines, I use heavy-duty snubbers > (for > >> up to 5/8? line) to give the boat some forward movement beyond the > stretch > >> of the lines. With the occasional excessive tides, I use the midship > cleat > >> adjustment along with the snubbers to keep the boat centered with > tension, > >> not just the extreme stretch of the spring lines. > >> Jay > >> > >>>> On Apr 22, 2020, at 1:58 PM, Jay Friedland wrote: > >>> > >>> Sean, > >>> It all depends on the exposure to the elements. Mel & I are on the same > >> island but completely different factors to deal with. Mel is fairly > >> protected in a lagoon, so his lines are fine for that location. > Wanderlust > >> is in a narrow slip in a marina with a sea wall surrounding the boats. > It > >> has 11? of clearance, and exposed to high winds, some wave action and > up to > >> 2-1/2? of tidal change. While it?s not all visible in the attached photo > >> (if it?s not stripped away), is the following, using all 1/2? lines- > >>> > >>> 1) bow lines to pilings at a 90? > >>> 2) spring lines to adjustable midship cleats on 1? T-tracks, 30? of > >> movement > >>> 3) Tide-minders on each stern line > >>> > >>> I?ve been through over 12 seasons of squalls, glancing hurricanes, > >> excessive tides and only have to worry about other people?s boats. The > >> other advantage of midship cleats is the versatility of docking in many > >> situations. I hope this helps. > >>> > >>> Jay Friedland > >>> S/v Wanderlust, ?97 > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>>> On Apr 22, 2020, at 1:22 PM, Sean Allen >> > wrote: > >>>> > >>>> I'm launching my boat in to a new slip in a few weeks and I'm curious > if > >>>> and how other Rhodes owners use spring lines? Mine only has one bow > >> cleat > >>>> and two on the stern. > >>>> > >>>> I've heard of others using the grab rail on the bulk head mentioned. > >>>> > >>>> Has anyone installed additional cleats? Is that advisable? > >>>> > >>>> The marina is in tidal waters (Barnegat Bay) with quite a bit of wake > >> on a > >>>> daily basis. > >>>> > >>>> Sean > >>> > >> > >> > > On Thu, Apr 23, 2020, 5:52 PM ROGER PIHLAJA wrote: > Hi All, > > There is a real advantage to rigging the anchor line thru the bow eye vs. > directly to the bow cleat. The choice of the bow eye vs. the bow cleat has > a significant effect on the anchor scope. This is because the bow eye is > ~1.5 ft closer to the water vs the bow cleat. For example, suppose we are > anchoring in 7 feet of water. The bow eye is ~2 feet above the water and > the bow cleat is ~3.5 feet above the water. Suppose we let out 65 feet of > anchor rode. The scope using the bow eye is 65 / (7 + 2) = 7.2 The scope > using the bow cleat is 65 / (7 + 3.5) = 6.2 A scope of 7.2 is sufficient > for decent overnight holding with a minimum 65 foot radius swing circle. A > scope of 6.2 is marginal for an overnight night stay. Sometimes, there > isn?t sufficient swing room to let out more anchor rode, say if you are the > last boat to drop the hook in a crowded anchorage. In addition, it?s > considered bad anchoring etiquette to use up all the swing room in an > anchorage even if you are the first one there. > > Fortunately, you don?t have to tie off to the bow eye in order to get the > scope advantage of using it. Simply run the anchor rode thru the bow eye > first, then up to the bow cleat, and cleat it off. This will give you all > the scope advantage of using the bow eye and all the ease of tying off to > the bow cleat. When departing, reach down and hook the anchor rode with a > boat hook below the bow eye. Pull the anchor rode on board, hang on to it, > and then uncleat the rode from the bow cleat. Easy peasy and no stress on > the knees! > > I always use the bow eye in the manner described above. There is just no > reason not to, the extra safety margin on scope helps me sleep better, and > I don?t annoy my fellow boaters. > > Roger Pihlaja > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > > From: Lowe, Rob > Sent: Thursday, April 23, 2020 10:16 AM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List; Art > Czerwonky > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Spring Lines > > I must say I read that wrong. Even though I responded bow eye, I was > thinking bow cleat. I agree with Graham's method using two lines running > through the chocks to the bow cleat. - rob > > ________________________________ > From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of Art > Czerwonky via Rhodes22-list > Sent: Thursday, April 23, 2020 10:03 AM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Spring Lines > > I agree fully with your recommendation, Graham. The bow eye is not > suitable for the shock loads of mooring. Art CzerwonkyMaryJane, Atlanta > Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android > > On Thu, Apr 23, 2020 at 9:44 AM, Graham Stewart > wrote: Personally I prefer to not use the bow eye for mooring. For one > thing it is difficult to reach the bow eye if you have old knees. I prefer > to rune two nylon lines from the mooring through the chocks and to the bow > cleat. It is much easier to attach and release and gives you two lines > instead of one. I have no doubt that either the eye or the cleat is plenty > strong. Whichever you use do not connect the boat to the mooring with chain. > > Graham Stewart > Agile 1976 Rhodes 22 > Kingston Ontario > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf > Of Lowe, Rob > Sent: Thursday, April 23, 2020 9:02 AM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Spring Lines > > I can't speak for Stan, but I've never heard of a bow eye on the Rhodes > giving way. Still doesn't mean it can't happen. I'd inspect the backing > plate up in the V berth next time you can and see if it's snug and looks > adequate. - rob > > ________________________________ > From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of > Goodness > Sent: Wednesday, April 22, 2020 5:36 PM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Spring Lines > > I went with a mooring this year. Stan do you think the bow eye alone can > hold? A noreaster is rolling into my anchorage tonight! > ? > > > On Apr 22, 2020, at 5:01 PM, Sean Allen wrote: > > > > ?Thanks Jay (and all) as this has been really helpful. > > > > I've got 6 pilings in my slip. I was thinking of using two 3/8" bow lines > > around each piling with snubbers both connected to the bow cleat, then > two > > 3/8" stern lines with snubbers each connected from the piling to each > stern > > cleat, and I think i might put spring cleats in approximately mid-ship by > > the windows and run a 1/2" spring line with snubbers on each side (using > > the grab rails temporarily). > > > > > >> On Wed, Apr 22, 2020 at 2:15 PM Jay Friedland > wrote: > >> > >> Sean, > >> I should also add that the Tide-minders prevent any side movement in my > >> relatively narrow slip. On the spring lines, I use heavy-duty snubbers > (for > >> up to 5/8? line) to give the boat some forward movement beyond the > stretch > >> of the lines. With the occasional excessive tides, I use the midship > cleat > >> adjustment along with the snubbers to keep the boat centered with > tension, > >> not just the extreme stretch of the spring lines. > >> Jay > >> > >>>> On Apr 22, 2020, at 1:58 PM, Jay Friedland wrote: > >>> > >>> Sean, > >>> It all depends on the exposure to the elements. Mel & I are on the same > >> island but completely different factors to deal with. Mel is fairly > >> protected in a lagoon, so his lines are fine for that location. > Wanderlust > >> is in a narrow slip in a marina with a sea wall surrounding the boats. > It > >> has 11? of clearance, and exposed to high winds, some wave action and > up to > >> 2-1/2? of tidal change. While it?s not all visible in the attached photo > >> (if it?s not stripped away), is the following, using all 1/2? lines- > >>> > >>> 1) bow lines to pilings at a 90? > >>> 2) spring lines to adjustable midship cleats on 1? T-tracks, 30? of > >> movement > >>> 3) Tide-minders on each stern line > >>> > >>> I?ve been through over 12 seasons of squalls, glancing hurricanes, > >> excessive tides and only have to worry about other people?s boats. The > >> other advantage of midship cleats is the versatility of docking in many > >> situations. I hope this helps. > >>> > >>> Jay Friedland > >>> S/v Wanderlust, ?97 > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>>> On Apr 22, 2020, at 1:22 PM, Sean Allen >> > wrote: > >>>> > >>>> I'm launching my boat in to a new slip in a few weeks and I'm curious > if > >>>> and how other Rhodes owners use spring lines? Mine only has one bow > >> cleat > >>>> and two on the stern. > >>>> > >>>> I've heard of others using the grab rail on the bulk head mentioned. > >>>> > >>>> Has anyone installed additional cleats? Is that advisable? > >>>> > >>>> The marina is in tidal waters (Barnegat Bay) with quite a bit of wake > >> on a > >>>> daily basis. > >>>> > >>>> Sean > >>> > >> > >> > > From roger_pihlaja at msn.com Thu Apr 23 20:18:55 2020 From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA) Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2020 00:18:55 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Bow Eye vs. Bow Cleat? In-Reply-To: References: <0FE1FB6B-5147-4CC9-9AA3-E881015C13B1@gmail.com> <026501d61975$3f6e9c90$be4bd5b0$@ca> <88870679.204302.1587650590197@mail.yahoo.com> , Message-ID: Todd, Huh? Why would I want to do that? Roger Pihlaja S/V Dynamic Equilibrium Sent from my iPhone > On Apr 23, 2020, at 7:26 PM, Todd Tavares wrote: > > ?Roger, > > Didn't you link the backing plate of your bow deck cleat to the backing > plate of the bow eye? > > Todd T. > > tavares0947 at gmail.com > >> On Thu, Apr 23, 2020, 5:52 PM ROGER PIHLAJA wrote: >> >> Hi All, >> >> There is a real advantage to rigging the anchor line thru the bow eye vs. >> directly to the bow cleat. The choice of the bow eye vs. the bow cleat has >> a significant effect on the anchor scope. This is because the bow eye is >> ~1.5 ft closer to the water vs the bow cleat. For example, suppose we are >> anchoring in 7 feet of water. The bow eye is ~2 feet above the water and >> the bow cleat is ~3.5 feet above the water. Suppose we let out 65 feet of >> anchor rode. The scope using the bow eye is 65 / (7 + 2) = 7.2 The scope >> using the bow cleat is 65 / (7 + 3.5) = 6.2 A scope of 7.2 is sufficient >> for decent overnight holding with a minimum 65 foot radius swing circle. A >> scope of 6.2 is marginal for an overnight night stay. Sometimes, there >> isn?t sufficient swing room to let out more anchor rode, say if you are the >> last boat to drop the hook in a crowded anchorage. In addition, it?s >> considered bad anchoring etiquette to use up all the swing room in an >> anchorage even if you are the first one there. >> >> Fortunately, you don?t have to tie off to the bow eye in order to get the >> scope advantage of using it. Simply run the anchor rode thru the bow eye >> first, then up to the bow cleat, and cleat it off. This will give you all >> the scope advantage of using the bow eye and all the ease of tying off to >> the bow cleat. When departing, reach down and hook the anchor rode with a >> boat hook below the bow eye. Pull the anchor rode on board, hang on to it, >> and then uncleat the rode from the bow cleat. Easy peasy and no stress on >> the knees! >> >> I always use the bow eye in the manner described above. There is just no >> reason not to, the extra safety margin on scope helps me sleep better, and >> I don?t annoy my fellow boaters. >> >> Roger Pihlaja >> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium >> >> Sent from Mail for >> Windows 10 >> >> From: Lowe, Rob >> Sent: Thursday, April 23, 2020 10:16 AM >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List; Art >> Czerwonky >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Spring Lines >> >> I must say I read that wrong. Even though I responded bow eye, I was >> thinking bow cleat. I agree with Graham's method using two lines running >> through the chocks to the bow cleat. - rob >> >> ________________________________ >> From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of Art >> Czerwonky via Rhodes22-list >> Sent: Thursday, April 23, 2020 10:03 AM >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Spring Lines >> >> I agree fully with your recommendation, Graham. The bow eye is not >> suitable for the shock loads of mooring. Art CzerwonkyMaryJane, Atlanta >> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android >> >> On Thu, Apr 23, 2020 at 9:44 AM, Graham Stewart >> wrote: Personally I prefer to not use the bow eye for mooring. For one >> thing it is difficult to reach the bow eye if you have old knees. I prefer >> to rune two nylon lines from the mooring through the chocks and to the bow >> cleat. It is much easier to attach and release and gives you two lines >> instead of one. I have no doubt that either the eye or the cleat is plenty >> strong. Whichever you use do not connect the boat to the mooring with chain. >> >> Graham Stewart >> Agile 1976 Rhodes 22 >> Kingston Ontario >> >> >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf >> Of Lowe, Rob >> Sent: Thursday, April 23, 2020 9:02 AM >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Spring Lines >> >> I can't speak for Stan, but I've never heard of a bow eye on the Rhodes >> giving way. Still doesn't mean it can't happen. I'd inspect the backing >> plate up in the V berth next time you can and see if it's snug and looks >> adequate. - rob >> >> ________________________________ >> From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of >> Goodness >> Sent: Wednesday, April 22, 2020 5:36 PM >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Spring Lines >> >> I went with a mooring this year. Stan do you think the bow eye alone can >> hold? A noreaster is rolling into my anchorage tonight! >> ? >> >>>> On Apr 22, 2020, at 5:01 PM, Sean Allen wrote: >>> >>> ?Thanks Jay (and all) as this has been really helpful. >>> >>> I've got 6 pilings in my slip. I was thinking of using two 3/8" bow lines >>> around each piling with snubbers both connected to the bow cleat, then >> two >>> 3/8" stern lines with snubbers each connected from the piling to each >> stern >>> cleat, and I think i might put spring cleats in approximately mid-ship by >>> the windows and run a 1/2" spring line with snubbers on each side (using >>> the grab rails temporarily). >>> >>> >>>> On Wed, Apr 22, 2020 at 2:15 PM Jay Friedland >> wrote: >>>> >>>> Sean, >>>> I should also add that the Tide-minders prevent any side movement in my >>>> relatively narrow slip. On the spring lines, I use heavy-duty snubbers >> (for >>>> up to 5/8? line) to give the boat some forward movement beyond the >> stretch >>>> of the lines. With the occasional excessive tides, I use the midship >> cleat >>>> adjustment along with the snubbers to keep the boat centered with >> tension, >>>> not just the extreme stretch of the spring lines. >>>> Jay >>>> >>>>>> On Apr 22, 2020, at 1:58 PM, Jay Friedland wrote: >>>>> >>>>> Sean, >>>>> It all depends on the exposure to the elements. Mel & I are on the same >>>> island but completely different factors to deal with. Mel is fairly >>>> protected in a lagoon, so his lines are fine for that location. >> Wanderlust >>>> is in a narrow slip in a marina with a sea wall surrounding the boats. >> It >>>> has 11? of clearance, and exposed to high winds, some wave action and >> up to >>>> 2-1/2? of tidal change. While it?s not all visible in the attached photo >>>> (if it?s not stripped away), is the following, using all 1/2? lines- >>>>> >>>>> 1) bow lines to pilings at a 90? >>>>> 2) spring lines to adjustable midship cleats on 1? T-tracks, 30? of >>>> movement >>>>> 3) Tide-minders on each stern line >>>>> >>>>> I?ve been through over 12 seasons of squalls, glancing hurricanes, >>>> excessive tides and only have to worry about other people?s boats. The >>>> other advantage of midship cleats is the versatility of docking in many >>>> situations. I hope this helps. >>>>> >>>>> Jay Friedland >>>>> S/v Wanderlust, ?97 >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>>> On Apr 22, 2020, at 1:22 PM, Sean Allen >>> > wrote: >>>>>> >>>>>> I'm launching my boat in to a new slip in a few weeks and I'm curious >> if >>>>>> and how other Rhodes owners use spring lines? Mine only has one bow >>>> cleat >>>>>> and two on the stern. >>>>>> >>>>>> I've heard of others using the grab rail on the bulk head mentioned. >>>>>> >>>>>> Has anyone installed additional cleats? Is that advisable? >>>>>> >>>>>> The marina is in tidal waters (Barnegat Bay) with quite a bit of wake >>>> on a >>>>>> daily basis. >>>>>> >>>>>> Sean >>>>> >>>> >>>> >> >> >> On Thu, Apr 23, 2020, 5:52 PM ROGER PIHLAJA wrote: >> >> Hi All, >> >> There is a real advantage to rigging the anchor line thru the bow eye vs. >> directly to the bow cleat. The choice of the bow eye vs. the bow cleat has >> a significant effect on the anchor scope. This is because the bow eye is >> ~1.5 ft closer to the water vs the bow cleat. For example, suppose we are >> anchoring in 7 feet of water. The bow eye is ~2 feet above the water and >> the bow cleat is ~3.5 feet above the water. Suppose we let out 65 feet of >> anchor rode. The scope using the bow eye is 65 / (7 + 2) = 7.2 The scope >> using the bow cleat is 65 / (7 + 3.5) = 6.2 A scope of 7.2 is sufficient >> for decent overnight holding with a minimum 65 foot radius swing circle. A >> scope of 6.2 is marginal for an overnight night stay. Sometimes, there >> isn?t sufficient swing room to let out more anchor rode, say if you are the >> last boat to drop the hook in a crowded anchorage. In addition, it?s >> considered bad anchoring etiquette to use up all the swing room in an >> anchorage even if you are the first one there. >> >> Fortunately, you don?t have to tie off to the bow eye in order to get the >> scope advantage of using it. Simply run the anchor rode thru the bow eye >> first, then up to the bow cleat, and cleat it off. This will give you all >> the scope advantage of using the bow eye and all the ease of tying off to >> the bow cleat. When departing, reach down and hook the anchor rode with a >> boat hook below the bow eye. Pull the anchor rode on board, hang on to it, >> and then uncleat the rode from the bow cleat. Easy peasy and no stress on >> the knees! >> >> I always use the bow eye in the manner described above. There is just no >> reason not to, the extra safety margin on scope helps me sleep better, and >> I don?t annoy my fellow boaters. >> >> Roger Pihlaja >> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium >> >> Sent from Mail for >> Windows 10 >> >> From: Lowe, Rob >> Sent: Thursday, April 23, 2020 10:16 AM >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List; Art >> Czerwonky >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Spring Lines >> >> I must say I read that wrong. Even though I responded bow eye, I was >> thinking bow cleat. I agree with Graham's method using two lines running >> through the chocks to the bow cleat. - rob >> >> ________________________________ >> From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of Art >> Czerwonky via Rhodes22-list >> Sent: Thursday, April 23, 2020 10:03 AM >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Spring Lines >> >> I agree fully with your recommendation, Graham. The bow eye is not >> suitable for the shock loads of mooring. Art CzerwonkyMaryJane, Atlanta >> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android >> >> On Thu, Apr 23, 2020 at 9:44 AM, Graham Stewart >> wrote: Personally I prefer to not use the bow eye for mooring. For one >> thing it is difficult to reach the bow eye if you have old knees. I prefer >> to rune two nylon lines from the mooring through the chocks and to the bow >> cleat. It is much easier to attach and release and gives you two lines >> instead of one. I have no doubt that either the eye or the cleat is plenty >> strong. Whichever you use do not connect the boat to the mooring with chain. >> >> Graham Stewart >> Agile 1976 Rhodes 22 >> Kingston Ontario >> >> >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf >> Of Lowe, Rob >> Sent: Thursday, April 23, 2020 9:02 AM >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Spring Lines >> >> I can't speak for Stan, but I've never heard of a bow eye on the Rhodes >> giving way. Still doesn't mean it can't happen. I'd inspect the backing >> plate up in the V berth next time you can and see if it's snug and looks >> adequate. - rob >> >> ________________________________ >> From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of >> Goodness >> Sent: Wednesday, April 22, 2020 5:36 PM >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Spring Lines >> >> I went with a mooring this year. Stan do you think the bow eye alone can >> hold? A noreaster is rolling into my anchorage tonight! >> ? >> >>>> On Apr 22, 2020, at 5:01 PM, Sean Allen wrote: >>> >>> ?Thanks Jay (and all) as this has been really helpful. >>> >>> I've got 6 pilings in my slip. I was thinking of using two 3/8" bow lines >>> around each piling with snubbers both connected to the bow cleat, then >> two >>> 3/8" stern lines with snubbers each connected from the piling to each >> stern >>> cleat, and I think i might put spring cleats in approximately mid-ship by >>> the windows and run a 1/2" spring line with snubbers on each side (using >>> the grab rails temporarily). >>> >>> >>>> On Wed, Apr 22, 2020 at 2:15 PM Jay Friedland >> wrote: >>>> >>>> Sean, >>>> I should also add that the Tide-minders prevent any side movement in my >>>> relatively narrow slip. On the spring lines, I use heavy-duty snubbers >> (for >>>> up to 5/8? line) to give the boat some forward movement beyond the >> stretch >>>> of the lines. With the occasional excessive tides, I use the midship >> cleat >>>> adjustment along with the snubbers to keep the boat centered with >> tension, >>>> not just the extreme stretch of the spring lines. >>>> Jay >>>> >>>>>> On Apr 22, 2020, at 1:58 PM, Jay Friedland wrote: >>>>> >>>>> Sean, >>>>> It all depends on the exposure to the elements. Mel & I are on the same >>>> island but completely different factors to deal with. Mel is fairly >>>> protected in a lagoon, so his lines are fine for that location. >> Wanderlust >>>> is in a narrow slip in a marina with a sea wall surrounding the boats. >> It >>>> has 11? of clearance, and exposed to high winds, some wave action and >> up to >>>> 2-1/2? of tidal change. While it?s not all visible in the attached photo >>>> (if it?s not stripped away), is the following, using all 1/2? lines- >>>>> >>>>> 1) bow lines to pilings at a 90? >>>>> 2) spring lines to adjustable midship cleats on 1? T-tracks, 30? of >>>> movement >>>>> 3) Tide-minders on each stern line >>>>> >>>>> I?ve been through over 12 seasons of squalls, glancing hurricanes, >>>> excessive tides and only have to worry about other people?s boats. The >>>> other advantage of midship cleats is the versatility of docking in many >>>> situations. I hope this helps. >>>>> >>>>> Jay Friedland >>>>> S/v Wanderlust, ?97 >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>>> On Apr 22, 2020, at 1:22 PM, Sean Allen >>> > wrote: >>>>>> >>>>>> I'm launching my boat in to a new slip in a few weeks and I'm curious >> if >>>>>> and how other Rhodes owners use spring lines? Mine only has one bow >>>> cleat >>>>>> and two on the stern. >>>>>> >>>>>> I've heard of others using the grab rail on the bulk head mentioned. >>>>>> >>>>>> Has anyone installed additional cleats? Is that advisable? >>>>>> >>>>>> The marina is in tidal waters (Barnegat Bay) with quite a bit of wake >>>> on a >>>>>> daily basis. >>>>>> >>>>>> Sean >>>>> >>>> >>>> >> >> From tavares0947 at gmail.com Thu Apr 23 20:22:39 2020 From: tavares0947 at gmail.com (Todd Tavares) Date: Thu, 23 Apr 2020 20:22:39 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Bow Eye vs. Bow Cleat? In-Reply-To: References: <0FE1FB6B-5147-4CC9-9AA3-E881015C13B1@gmail.com> <026501d61975$3f6e9c90$be4bd5b0$@ca> <88870679.204302.1587650590197@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I guess I must have confused you with someone else, and it may have been the mount for a UPS, as I give it more thought. Sorry about that. Todd T. tavares0947 at gmail.com On Thu, Apr 23, 2020, 8:18 PM ROGER PIHLAJA wrote: > Todd, > > Huh? Why would I want to do that? > > Roger Pihlaja > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium > > Sent from my iPhone > > > On Apr 23, 2020, at 7:26 PM, Todd Tavares wrote: > > > > ?Roger, > > > > Didn't you link the backing plate of your bow deck cleat to the backing > > plate of the bow eye? > > > > Todd T. > > > > tavares0947 at gmail.com > > > >> On Thu, Apr 23, 2020, 5:52 PM ROGER PIHLAJA > wrote: > >> > >> Hi All, > >> > >> There is a real advantage to rigging the anchor line thru the bow eye > vs. > >> directly to the bow cleat. The choice of the bow eye vs. the bow cleat > has > >> a significant effect on the anchor scope. This is because the bow eye > is > >> ~1.5 ft closer to the water vs the bow cleat. For example, suppose we > are > >> anchoring in 7 feet of water. The bow eye is ~2 feet above the water > and > >> the bow cleat is ~3.5 feet above the water. Suppose we let out 65 feet > of > >> anchor rode. The scope using the bow eye is 65 / (7 + 2) = 7.2 The > scope > >> using the bow cleat is 65 / (7 + 3.5) = 6.2 A scope of 7.2 is > sufficient > >> for decent overnight holding with a minimum 65 foot radius swing > circle. A > >> scope of 6.2 is marginal for an overnight night stay. Sometimes, there > >> isn?t sufficient swing room to let out more anchor rode, say if you are > the > >> last boat to drop the hook in a crowded anchorage. In addition, it?s > >> considered bad anchoring etiquette to use up all the swing room in an > >> anchorage even if you are the first one there. > >> > >> Fortunately, you don?t have to tie off to the bow eye in order to get > the > >> scope advantage of using it. Simply run the anchor rode thru the bow > eye > >> first, then up to the bow cleat, and cleat it off. This will give you > all > >> the scope advantage of using the bow eye and all the ease of tying off > to > >> the bow cleat. When departing, reach down and hook the anchor rode > with a > >> boat hook below the bow eye. Pull the anchor rode on board, hang on to > it, > >> and then uncleat the rode from the bow cleat. Easy peasy and no stress > on > >> the knees! > >> > >> I always use the bow eye in the manner described above. There is just > no > >> reason not to, the extra safety margin on scope helps me sleep better, > and > >> I don?t annoy my fellow boaters. > >> > >> Roger Pihlaja > >> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium > >> > >> Sent from Mail for > >> Windows 10 > >> > >> From: Lowe, Rob > >> Sent: Thursday, April 23, 2020 10:16 AM > >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List; Art > >> Czerwonky > >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Spring Lines > >> > >> I must say I read that wrong. Even though I responded bow eye, I was > >> thinking bow cleat. I agree with Graham's method using two lines > running > >> through the chocks to the bow cleat. - rob > >> > >> ________________________________ > >> From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of > Art > >> Czerwonky via Rhodes22-list > >> Sent: Thursday, April 23, 2020 10:03 AM > >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Spring Lines > >> > >> I agree fully with your recommendation, Graham. The bow eye is not > >> suitable for the shock loads of mooring. Art CzerwonkyMaryJane, Atlanta > >> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android > >> > >> On Thu, Apr 23, 2020 at 9:44 AM, Graham Stewart > >> wrote: Personally I prefer to not use the bow eye for mooring. For one > >> thing it is difficult to reach the bow eye if you have old knees. I > prefer > >> to rune two nylon lines from the mooring through the chocks and to the > bow > >> cleat. It is much easier to attach and release and gives you two lines > >> instead of one. I have no doubt that either the eye or the cleat is > plenty > >> strong. Whichever you use do not connect the boat to the mooring with > chain. > >> > >> Graham Stewart > >> Agile 1976 Rhodes 22 > >> Kingston Ontario > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> -----Original Message----- > >> From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On > Behalf > >> Of Lowe, Rob > >> Sent: Thursday, April 23, 2020 9:02 AM > >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Spring Lines > >> > >> I can't speak for Stan, but I've never heard of a bow eye on the Rhodes > >> giving way. Still doesn't mean it can't happen. I'd inspect the > backing > >> plate up in the V berth next time you can and see if it's snug and looks > >> adequate. - rob > >> > >> ________________________________ > >> From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of > >> Goodness > >> Sent: Wednesday, April 22, 2020 5:36 PM > >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Spring Lines > >> > >> I went with a mooring this year. Stan do you think the bow eye alone > can > >> hold? A noreaster is rolling into my anchorage tonight! > >> ? > >> > >>>> On Apr 22, 2020, at 5:01 PM, Sean Allen > wrote: > >>> > >>> ?Thanks Jay (and all) as this has been really helpful. > >>> > >>> I've got 6 pilings in my slip. I was thinking of using two 3/8" bow > lines > >>> around each piling with snubbers both connected to the bow cleat, then > >> two > >>> 3/8" stern lines with snubbers each connected from the piling to each > >> stern > >>> cleat, and I think i might put spring cleats in approximately mid-ship > by > >>> the windows and run a 1/2" spring line with snubbers on each side > (using > >>> the grab rails temporarily). > >>> > >>> > >>>> On Wed, Apr 22, 2020 at 2:15 PM Jay Friedland > >> wrote: > >>>> > >>>> Sean, > >>>> I should also add that the Tide-minders prevent any side movement in > my > >>>> relatively narrow slip. On the spring lines, I use heavy-duty snubbers > >> (for > >>>> up to 5/8? line) to give the boat some forward movement beyond the > >> stretch > >>>> of the lines. With the occasional excessive tides, I use the midship > >> cleat > >>>> adjustment along with the snubbers to keep the boat centered with > >> tension, > >>>> not just the extreme stretch of the spring lines. > >>>> Jay > >>>> > >>>>>> On Apr 22, 2020, at 1:58 PM, Jay Friedland > wrote: > >>>>> > >>>>> Sean, > >>>>> It all depends on the exposure to the elements. Mel & I are on the > same > >>>> island but completely different factors to deal with. Mel is fairly > >>>> protected in a lagoon, so his lines are fine for that location. > >> Wanderlust > >>>> is in a narrow slip in a marina with a sea wall surrounding the > boats. > >> It > >>>> has 11? of clearance, and exposed to high winds, some wave action and > >> up to > >>>> 2-1/2? of tidal change. While it?s not all visible in the attached > photo > >>>> (if it?s not stripped away), is the following, using all 1/2? lines- > >>>>> > >>>>> 1) bow lines to pilings at a 90? > >>>>> 2) spring lines to adjustable midship cleats on 1? T-tracks, 30? of > >>>> movement > >>>>> 3) Tide-minders on each stern line > >>>>> > >>>>> I?ve been through over 12 seasons of squalls, glancing hurricanes, > >>>> excessive tides and only have to worry about other people?s boats. The > >>>> other advantage of midship cleats is the versatility of docking in > many > >>>> situations. I hope this helps. > >>>>> > >>>>> Jay Friedland > >>>>> S/v Wanderlust, ?97 > >>>>> > >>>>> > >>>>> > >>>>> > >>>>>> On Apr 22, 2020, at 1:22 PM, Sean Allen >>>> > wrote: > >>>>>> > >>>>>> I'm launching my boat in to a new slip in a few weeks and I'm > curious > >> if > >>>>>> and how other Rhodes owners use spring lines? Mine only has one bow > >>>> cleat > >>>>>> and two on the stern. > >>>>>> > >>>>>> I've heard of others using the grab rail on the bulk head mentioned. > >>>>>> > >>>>>> Has anyone installed additional cleats? Is that advisable? > >>>>>> > >>>>>> The marina is in tidal waters (Barnegat Bay) with quite a bit of > wake > >>>> on a > >>>>>> daily basis. > >>>>>> > >>>>>> Sean > >>>>> > >>>> > >>>> > >> > >> > >> On Thu, Apr 23, 2020, 5:52 PM ROGER PIHLAJA > wrote: > >> > >> Hi All, > >> > >> There is a real advantage to rigging the anchor line thru the bow eye > vs. > >> directly to the bow cleat. The choice of the bow eye vs. the bow cleat > has > >> a significant effect on the anchor scope. This is because the bow eye > is > >> ~1.5 ft closer to the water vs the bow cleat. For example, suppose we > are > >> anchoring in 7 feet of water. The bow eye is ~2 feet above the water > and > >> the bow cleat is ~3.5 feet above the water. Suppose we let out 65 feet > of > >> anchor rode. The scope using the bow eye is 65 / (7 + 2) = 7.2 The > scope > >> using the bow cleat is 65 / (7 + 3.5) = 6.2 A scope of 7.2 is > sufficient > >> for decent overnight holding with a minimum 65 foot radius swing > circle. A > >> scope of 6.2 is marginal for an overnight night stay. Sometimes, there > >> isn?t sufficient swing room to let out more anchor rode, say if you are > the > >> last boat to drop the hook in a crowded anchorage. In addition, it?s > >> considered bad anchoring etiquette to use up all the swing room in an > >> anchorage even if you are the first one there. > >> > >> Fortunately, you don?t have to tie off to the bow eye in order to get > the > >> scope advantage of using it. Simply run the anchor rode thru the bow > eye > >> first, then up to the bow cleat, and cleat it off. This will give you > all > >> the scope advantage of using the bow eye and all the ease of tying off > to > >> the bow cleat. When departing, reach down and hook the anchor rode > with a > >> boat hook below the bow eye. Pull the anchor rode on board, hang on to > it, > >> and then uncleat the rode from the bow cleat. Easy peasy and no stress > on > >> the knees! > >> > >> I always use the bow eye in the manner described above. There is just > no > >> reason not to, the extra safety margin on scope helps me sleep better, > and > >> I don?t annoy my fellow boaters. > >> > >> Roger Pihlaja > >> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium > >> > >> Sent from Mail for > >> Windows 10 > >> > >> From: Lowe, Rob > >> Sent: Thursday, April 23, 2020 10:16 AM > >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List; Art > >> Czerwonky > >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Spring Lines > >> > >> I must say I read that wrong. Even though I responded bow eye, I was > >> thinking bow cleat. I agree with Graham's method using two lines > running > >> through the chocks to the bow cleat. - rob > >> > >> ________________________________ > >> From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of > Art > >> Czerwonky via Rhodes22-list > >> Sent: Thursday, April 23, 2020 10:03 AM > >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Spring Lines > >> > >> I agree fully with your recommendation, Graham. The bow eye is not > >> suitable for the shock loads of mooring. Art CzerwonkyMaryJane, Atlanta > >> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android > >> > >> On Thu, Apr 23, 2020 at 9:44 AM, Graham Stewart > >> wrote: Personally I prefer to not use the bow eye for mooring. For one > >> thing it is difficult to reach the bow eye if you have old knees. I > prefer > >> to rune two nylon lines from the mooring through the chocks and to the > bow > >> cleat. It is much easier to attach and release and gives you two lines > >> instead of one. I have no doubt that either the eye or the cleat is > plenty > >> strong. Whichever you use do not connect the boat to the mooring with > chain. > >> > >> Graham Stewart > >> Agile 1976 Rhodes 22 > >> Kingston Ontario > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> -----Original Message----- > >> From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On > Behalf > >> Of Lowe, Rob > >> Sent: Thursday, April 23, 2020 9:02 AM > >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Spring Lines > >> > >> I can't speak for Stan, but I've never heard of a bow eye on the Rhodes > >> giving way. Still doesn't mean it can't happen. I'd inspect the > backing > >> plate up in the V berth next time you can and see if it's snug and looks > >> adequate. - rob > >> > >> ________________________________ > >> From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of > >> Goodness > >> Sent: Wednesday, April 22, 2020 5:36 PM > >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Spring Lines > >> > >> I went with a mooring this year. Stan do you think the bow eye alone > can > >> hold? A noreaster is rolling into my anchorage tonight! > >> ? > >> > >>>> On Apr 22, 2020, at 5:01 PM, Sean Allen > wrote: > >>> > >>> ?Thanks Jay (and all) as this has been really helpful. > >>> > >>> I've got 6 pilings in my slip. I was thinking of using two 3/8" bow > lines > >>> around each piling with snubbers both connected to the bow cleat, then > >> two > >>> 3/8" stern lines with snubbers each connected from the piling to each > >> stern > >>> cleat, and I think i might put spring cleats in approximately mid-ship > by > >>> the windows and run a 1/2" spring line with snubbers on each side > (using > >>> the grab rails temporarily). > >>> > >>> > >>>> On Wed, Apr 22, 2020 at 2:15 PM Jay Friedland > >> wrote: > >>>> > >>>> Sean, > >>>> I should also add that the Tide-minders prevent any side movement in > my > >>>> relatively narrow slip. On the spring lines, I use heavy-duty snubbers > >> (for > >>>> up to 5/8? line) to give the boat some forward movement beyond the > >> stretch > >>>> of the lines. With the occasional excessive tides, I use the midship > >> cleat > >>>> adjustment along with the snubbers to keep the boat centered with > >> tension, > >>>> not just the extreme stretch of the spring lines. > >>>> Jay > >>>> > >>>>>> On Apr 22, 2020, at 1:58 PM, Jay Friedland > wrote: > >>>>> > >>>>> Sean, > >>>>> It all depends on the exposure to the elements. Mel & I are on the > same > >>>> island but completely different factors to deal with. Mel is fairly > >>>> protected in a lagoon, so his lines are fine for that location. > >> Wanderlust > >>>> is in a narrow slip in a marina with a sea wall surrounding the > boats. > >> It > >>>> has 11? of clearance, and exposed to high winds, some wave action and > >> up to > >>>> 2-1/2? of tidal change. While it?s not all visible in the attached > photo > >>>> (if it?s not stripped away), is the following, using all 1/2? lines- > >>>>> > >>>>> 1) bow lines to pilings at a 90? > >>>>> 2) spring lines to adjustable midship cleats on 1? T-tracks, 30? of > >>>> movement > >>>>> 3) Tide-minders on each stern line > >>>>> > >>>>> I?ve been through over 12 seasons of squalls, glancing hurricanes, > >>>> excessive tides and only have to worry about other people?s boats. The > >>>> other advantage of midship cleats is the versatility of docking in > many > >>>> situations. I hope this helps. > >>>>> > >>>>> Jay Friedland > >>>>> S/v Wanderlust, ?97 > >>>>> > >>>>> > >>>>> > >>>>> > >>>>>> On Apr 22, 2020, at 1:22 PM, Sean Allen >>>> > wrote: > >>>>>> > >>>>>> I'm launching my boat in to a new slip in a few weeks and I'm > curious > >> if > >>>>>> and how other Rhodes owners use spring lines? Mine only has one bow > >>>> cleat > >>>>>> and two on the stern. > >>>>>> > >>>>>> I've heard of others using the grab rail on the bulk head mentioned. > >>>>>> > >>>>>> Has anyone installed additional cleats? Is that advisable? > >>>>>> > >>>>>> The marina is in tidal waters (Barnegat Bay) with quite a bit of > wake > >>>> on a > >>>>>> daily basis. > >>>>>> > >>>>>> Sean > >>>>> > >>>> > >>>> > >> > >> > From peter at sunnybeeches.com Thu Apr 23 21:39:34 2020 From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg) Date: Thu, 23 Apr 2020 21:39:34 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Bow Eye vs. Bow Cleat? In-Reply-To: References: <0FE1FB6B-5147-4CC9-9AA3-E881015C13B1@gmail.com> <026501d61975$3f6e9c90$be4bd5b0$@ca> <88870679.204302.1587650590197@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I am in total agreement with Roger on the benefits of anchoring from the bow eye rather than the bow cleat. My approach to doing so is a little different. I have 10? of 3/8? line with a thimble in one end permanently attached to the bow eye with a shackle. I refer to this line as my ?painter?. When I?m not anchored, the painter is looped over and tied off to the pulpit. After I?ve anchored, I attach the painter to the rode, and let out more scope so that the painter takes the load. In addition to effectively increasing your scope, this approach eliminates any chafing that might occur where the rode comes over the toe-rail. I originally tried this approach because someone way back in the archives suggested that it would reduce the tendency of R22 to swing on its anchor. Unfortunately I did not find this to be true to any significant extent. Peter Nyberg Coventry, CT s/v Silverheels (1988/2016) > On Apr 23, 2020, at 5:51 PM, ROGER PIHLAJA wrote: > > Hi All, > > There is a real advantage to rigging the anchor line thru the bow eye vs. directly to the bow cleat. The choice of the bow eye vs. the bow cleat has a significant effect on the anchor scope. This is because the bow eye is ~1.5 ft closer to the water vs the bow cleat. For example, suppose we are anchoring in 7 feet of water. The bow eye is ~2 feet above the water and the bow cleat is ~3.5 feet above the water. Suppose we let out 65 feet of anchor rode. The scope using the bow eye is 65 / (7 + 2) = 7.2 The scope using the bow cleat is 65 / (7 + 3.5) = 6.2 A scope of 7.2 is sufficient for decent overnight holding with a minimum 65 foot radius swing circle. A scope of 6.2 is marginal for an overnight night stay. Sometimes, there isn?t sufficient swing room to let out more anchor rode, say if you are the last boat to drop the hook in a crowded anchorage. In addition, it?s considered bad anchoring etiquette to use up all the swing room in an anchorage even if you are the first one there. > > Fortunately, you don?t have to tie off to the bow eye in order to get the scope advantage of using it. Simply run the anchor rode thru the bow eye first, then up to the bow cleat, and cleat it off. This will give you all the scope advantage of using the bow eye and all the ease of tying off to the bow cleat. When departing, reach down and hook the anchor rode with a boat hook below the bow eye. Pull the anchor rode on board, hang on to it, and then uncleat the rode from the bow cleat. Easy peasy and no stress on the knees! > > I always use the bow eye in the manner described above. There is just no reason not to, the extra safety margin on scope helps me sleep better, and I don?t annoy my fellow boaters. > > Roger Pihlaja > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium > From roger_pihlaja at msn.com Fri Apr 24 08:22:02 2020 From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA) Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2020 12:22:02 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Bow Eye vs. Bow Cleat? In-Reply-To: References: <0FE1FB6B-5147-4CC9-9AA3-E881015C13B1@gmail.com> <026501d61975$3f6e9c90$be4bd5b0$@ca> <88870679.204302.1587650590197@mail.yahoo.com> , Message-ID: Peter, I find if I run the anchor line from the bow eye thru the bow chock and then to the bow cleat; that, I don?t get any chafing. If I need to adjust the anchor rode in the middle of the night, mine is neatly coiled up in the bucket on the foredeck ready for use. I just uncleat the anchor rode from the bow cleat and I can do whatever needs doing. The anchor rode slides in either direction thru the bow eye with no issues. With your anchor rode attached to the end of the painter, 10 feet away from the bow and maybe stretched as tight as a guitar string due to a storm &/or tidal flow, what do you do? With the painter attached to the bow eye with a shackle and a thimble, there is no way to quick release it there. If you need to increase the scope quickly, what do you do? Roger Pihlaja S/V Dynamic Equilibrium Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Peter Nyberg Sent: Thursday, April 23, 2020 9:40 PM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Bow Eye vs. Bow Cleat? I am in total agreement with Roger on the benefits of anchoring from the bow eye rather than the bow cleat. My approach to doing so is a little different. I have 10? of 3/8? line with a thimble in one end permanently attached to the bow eye with a shackle. I refer to this line as my ?painter?. When I?m not anchored, the painter is looped over and tied off to the pulpit. After I?ve anchored, I attach the painter to the rode, and let out more scope so that the painter takes the load. In addition to effectively increasing your scope, this approach eliminates any chafing that might occur where the rode comes over the toe-rail. I originally tried this approach because someone way back in the archives suggested that it would reduce the tendency of R22 to swing on its anchor. Unfortunately I did not find this to be true to any significant extent. Peter Nyberg Coventry, CT s/v Silverheels (1988/2016) > On Apr 23, 2020, at 5:51 PM, ROGER PIHLAJA wrote: > > Hi All, > > There is a real advantage to rigging the anchor line thru the bow eye vs. directly to the bow cleat. The choice of the bow eye vs. the bow cleat has a significant effect on the anchor scope. This is because the bow eye is ~1.5 ft closer to the water vs the bow cleat. For example, suppose we are anchoring in 7 feet of water. The bow eye is ~2 feet above the water and the bow cleat is ~3.5 feet above the water. Suppose we let out 65 feet of anchor rode. The scope using the bow eye is 65 / (7 + 2) = 7.2 The scope using the bow cleat is 65 / (7 + 3.5) = 6.2 A scope of 7.2 is sufficient for decent overnight holding with a minimum 65 foot radius swing circle. A scope of 6.2 is marginal for an overnight night stay. Sometimes, there isn?t sufficient swing room to let out more anchor rode, say if you are the last boat to drop the hook in a crowded anchorage. In addition, it?s considered bad anchoring etiquette to use up all the swing room in an anchorage even if you are the first one there. > > Fortunately, you don?t have to tie off to the bow eye in order to get the scope advantage of using it. Simply run the anchor rode thru the bow eye first, then up to the bow cleat, and cleat it off. This will give you all the scope advantage of using the bow eye and all the ease of tying off to the bow cleat. When departing, reach down and hook the anchor rode with a boat hook below the bow eye. Pull the anchor rode on board, hang on to it, and then uncleat the rode from the bow cleat. Easy peasy and no stress on the knees! > > I always use the bow eye in the manner described above. There is just no reason not to, the extra safety margin on scope helps me sleep better, and I don?t annoy my fellow boaters. > > Roger Pihlaja > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium > From roger_pihlaja at msn.com Fri Apr 24 09:28:31 2020 From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA) Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2020 13:28:31 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Swinging at anchor? In-Reply-To: References: <0FE1FB6B-5147-4CC9-9AA3-E881015C13B1@gmail.com> <026501d61975$3f6e9c90$be4bd5b0$@ca> <88870679.204302.1587650590197@mail.yahoo.com> , Message-ID: Hi All, By the time I put up the pop top + enclosure and the cockpit boom room enclosure, S/V Dynamic Equilibrium has so much windage aft of the center of buoyancy; that, the bow always points strongly into the wind, like a big weather vane. This weather vane tendency is so strong it overwhelms any effect that the off center pull from using the bow chock/bow cleat vs. the bow eye might cause. Yes, in theory, the off center pull does generate a torque that might cause the boat to sail around its anchor. But, the weather vane effect from the excess windage aft completely dominates the boat?s response to a wind shift. We don?t have tidal current shifts here on the great lakes and rivers always tend to flow in the same direction. I?d be interested in hearing from ocean sailing Rhodies regarding whether anchoring from the bow eye vs. bow chock/bow cleat makes any difference in the way the boat lies to a current vs. the way it lies to the wind. My expectation is that there is very little difference; but, I?d like to hear from people that have actual experience. Regarding the question about using the bow eye vs. the bow chock/bow cleat when tied up to a mooring ? Commercial moorings usually have a huge mushroom anchor or engine block buried in the mud and all chain rode up to the mooring ball. This setup has little, if any, shock absorbing properties. But, isn?t the pennant from the mooring ball up to the boat usually nylon? Isn?t that where the shock absorbing is supposed to occur? If so, you definitely wouldn?t want to use chain here. Given the huge size of the mooring anchor and all steel chain rode, I don?t think it makes much difference whether you use the bow eye or the bow chock/bow cleat when tying up to a mooring. That huge, deeply set, mooring anchor is not going to move no matter how much or how little scope you let out. Roger Pihlaja S/V Dynamic Equilibrium Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Peter Nyberg Sent: Thursday, April 23, 2020 9:40 PM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Bow Eye vs. Bow Cleat? I am in total agreement with Roger on the benefits of anchoring from the bow eye rather than the bow cleat. My approach to doing so is a little different. I have 10? of 3/8? line with a thimble in one end permanently attached to the bow eye with a shackle. I refer to this line as my ?painter?. When I?m not anchored, the painter is looped over and tied off to the pulpit. After I?ve anchored, I attach the painter to the rode, and let out more scope so that the painter takes the load. In addition to effectively increasing your scope, this approach eliminates any chafing that might occur where the rode comes over the toe-rail. I originally tried this approach because someone way back in the archives suggested that it would reduce the tendency of R22 to swing on its anchor. Unfortunately I did not find this to be true to any significant extent. Peter Nyberg Coventry, CT s/v Silverheels (1988/2016) > On Apr 23, 2020, at 5:51 PM, ROGER PIHLAJA wrote: > > Hi All, > > There is a real advantage to rigging the anchor line thru the bow eye vs. directly to the bow cleat. The choice of the bow eye vs. the bow cleat has a significant effect on the anchor scope. This is because the bow eye is ~1.5 ft closer to the water vs the bow cleat. For example, suppose we are anchoring in 7 feet of water. The bow eye is ~2 feet above the water and the bow cleat is ~3.5 feet above the water. Suppose we let out 65 feet of anchor rode. The scope using the bow eye is 65 / (7 + 2) = 7.2 The scope using the bow cleat is 65 / (7 + 3.5) = 6.2 A scope of 7.2 is sufficient for decent overnight holding with a minimum 65 foot radius swing circle. A scope of 6.2 is marginal for an overnight night stay. Sometimes, there isn?t sufficient swing room to let out more anchor rode, say if you are the last boat to drop the hook in a crowded anchorage. In addition, it?s considered bad anchoring etiquette to use up all the swing room in an anchorage even if you are the first one there. > > Fortunately, you don?t have to tie off to the bow eye in order to get the scope advantage of using it. Simply run the anchor rode thru the bow eye first, then up to the bow cleat, and cleat it off. This will give you all the scope advantage of using the bow eye and all the ease of tying off to the bow cleat. When departing, reach down and hook the anchor rode with a boat hook below the bow eye. Pull the anchor rode on board, hang on to it, and then uncleat the rode from the bow cleat. Easy peasy and no stress on the knees! > > I always use the bow eye in the manner described above. There is just no reason not to, the extra safety margin on scope helps me sleep better, and I don?t annoy my fellow boaters. > > Roger Pihlaja > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium > From jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com Fri Apr 24 09:46:41 2020 From: jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com (JeffSmith) Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2020 06:46:41 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Bow Eye vs. Bow Cleat? In-Reply-To: References: <379D4DD7-E316-44A4-9FA0-121C34E32793@gmail.com> <0FE1FB6B-5147-4CC9-9AA3-E881015C13B1@gmail.com> <026501d61975$3f6e9c90$be4bd5b0$@ca> <88870679.204302.1587650590197@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1587736001837-0.post@n5.nabble.com> I find if I run the anchor line from the bow eye thru the bow chock and then to the bow cleat; that, I don?t get any chafing. I guess you run the chain through the bow eye, attach the anchor with a shackle and let her go? If you have 200' of Rhode, that would be a lot of threading through the bow eye. ----- Jeff Smith 2009 R22 #101 RADIANT Atlantic Highlands Municpal Harbor Atlantic Highlands, NJ -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From peter at sunnybeeches.com Fri Apr 24 11:12:51 2020 From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg) Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2020 11:12:51 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Bow Eye vs. Bow Cleat? In-Reply-To: References: <0FE1FB6B-5147-4CC9-9AA3-E881015C13B1@gmail.com> <026501d61975$3f6e9c90$be4bd5b0$@ca> <88870679.204302.1587650590197@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Roger, You raise a valid point. In order to let out more scope, I would first have to pull in 10 feet of rode. I?m always will to reconsider how I do things, but I?m unclear about some details of your system. After you?ve retrieved your anchor, you?ve got the anchor on deck still attached to the rode, unused rode in a bucket on deck, and the rode still passing through the bow eye. What happens next, to the anchor, and to the rode? ?Peter > On Apr 24, 2020, at 8:22 AM, ROGER PIHLAJA wrote: > > Peter, > > I find if I run the anchor line from the bow eye thru the bow chock and then to the bow cleat; that, I don?t get any chafing. > > If I need to adjust the anchor rode in the middle of the night, mine is neatly coiled up in the bucket on the foredeck ready for use. I just uncleat the anchor rode from the bow cleat and I can do whatever needs doing. The anchor rode slides in either direction thru the bow eye with no issues. With your anchor rode attached to the end of the painter, 10 feet away from the bow and maybe stretched as tight as a guitar string due to a storm &/or tidal flow, what do you do? With the painter attached to the bow eye with a shackle and a thimble, there is no way to quick release it there. If you need to increase the scope quickly, what do you do? > > Roger Pihlaja > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium > From gstewart8 at cogeco.ca Fri Apr 24 11:36:40 2020 From: gstewart8 at cogeco.ca (Graham Stewart) Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2020 11:36:40 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Swinging at anchor? In-Reply-To: References: <0FE1FB6B-5147-4CC9-9AA3-E881015C13B1@gmail.com> <026501d61975$3f6e9c90$be4bd5b0$@ca> <88870679.204302.1587650590197@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <02e801d61a4e$27ee53b0$77cafb10$@ca> It is fascinating to me how what seemed like a simple question of whether to use the bow eye or the bow cleat has become so technical - and interesting. What an amazing list this is. Roger makes a distinction between tying up to a mooring or an anchor that I think is very important. In my earlier post I thought we were talking about moorings only but clearly that assumption was unwarranted. I think I should explain more carefully the risk of using chain with a mooring. Most moorings use chain between the float and the weight. That greatly increases the holding power and minimizes the scope that is required. However, the connection between the float and the boat - whether to the bow eye or cleat - should be nylon line. The case I mentioned where a neighbor had his boat break free and washed ashore occurred because he connected his mooring chain directly to his bow eye. With little to absorb the shock the chain snapped within a few hours of rough weather. Graham Stewart Agile 1976 Rhodes 22 Kingston Ontario -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of ROGER PIHLAJA Sent: Friday, April 24, 2020 9:29 AM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Swinging at anchor? Hi All, By the time I put up the pop top + enclosure and the cockpit boom room enclosure, S/V Dynamic Equilibrium has so much windage aft of the center of buoyancy; that, the bow always points strongly into the wind, like a big weather vane. This weather vane tendency is so strong it overwhelms any effect that the off center pull from using the bow chock/bow cleat vs. the bow eye might cause. Yes, in theory, the off center pull does generate a torque that might cause the boat to sail around its anchor. But, the weather vane effect from the excess windage aft completely dominates the boat's response to a wind shift. We don't have tidal current shifts here on the great lakes and rivers always tend to flow in the same direction. I'd be interested in hearing from ocean sailing Rhodies regarding whether anchoring from the bow eye vs. bow chock/bow cleat makes any difference in the way the boat lies to a current vs. the way it lies to the wind. My expectation is that there is very little difference; but, I'd like to hear from people that have actual experience. Regarding the question about using the bow eye vs. the bow chock/bow cleat when tied up to a mooring - Commercial moorings usually have a huge mushroom anchor or engine block buried in the mud and all chain rode up to the mooring ball. This setup has little, if any, shock absorbing properties. But, isn't the pennant from the mooring ball up to the boat usually nylon? Isn't that where the shock absorbing is supposed to occur? If so, you definitely wouldn't want to use chain here. Given the huge size of the mooring anchor and all steel chain rode, I don't think it makes much difference whether you use the bow eye or the bow chock/bow cleat when tying up to a mooring. That huge, deeply set, mooring anchor is not going to move no matter how much or how little scope you let out. Roger Pihlaja S/V Dynamic Equilibrium Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Peter Nyberg Sent: Thursday, April 23, 2020 9:40 PM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Bow Eye vs. Bow Cleat? I am in total agreement with Roger on the benefits of anchoring from the bow eye rather than the bow cleat. My approach to doing so is a little different. I have 10' of 3/8" line with a thimble in one end permanently attached to the bow eye with a shackle. I refer to this line as my 'painter'. When I'm not anchored, the painter is looped over and tied off to the pulpit. After I've anchored, I attach the painter to the rode, and let out more scope so that the painter takes the load. In addition to effectively increasing your scope, this approach eliminates any chafing that might occur where the rode comes over the toe-rail. I originally tried this approach because someone way back in the archives suggested that it would reduce the tendency of R22 to swing on its anchor. Unfortunately I did not find this to be true to any significant extent. Peter Nyberg Coventry, CT s/v Silverheels (1988/2016) > On Apr 23, 2020, at 5:51 PM, ROGER PIHLAJA wrote: > > Hi All, > > There is a real advantage to rigging the anchor line thru the bow eye vs. directly to the bow cleat. The choice of the bow eye vs. the bow cleat has a significant effect on the anchor scope. This is because the bow eye is ~1.5 ft closer to the water vs the bow cleat. For example, suppose we are anchoring in 7 feet of water. The bow eye is ~2 feet above the water and the bow cleat is ~3.5 feet above the water. Suppose we let out 65 feet of anchor rode. The scope using the bow eye is 65 / (7 + 2) = 7.2 The scope using the bow cleat is 65 / (7 + 3.5) = 6.2 A scope of 7.2 is sufficient for decent overnight holding with a minimum 65 foot radius swing circle. A scope of 6.2 is marginal for an overnight night stay. Sometimes, there isn't sufficient swing room to let out more anchor rode, say if you are the last boat to drop the hook in a crowded anchorage. In addition, it's considered bad anchoring etiquette to use up all the swing room in an anchorage even if you are the first one there. > > Fortunately, you don't have to tie off to the bow eye in order to get the scope advantage of using it. Simply run the anchor rode thru the bow eye first, then up to the bow cleat, and cleat it off. This will give you all the scope advantage of using the bow eye and all the ease of tying off to the bow cleat. When departing, reach down and hook the anchor rode with a boat hook below the bow eye. Pull the anchor rode on board, hang on to it, and then uncleat the rode from the bow cleat. Easy peasy and no stress on the knees! > > I always use the bow eye in the manner described above. There is just no reason not to, the extra safety margin on scope helps me sleep better, and I don't annoy my fellow boaters. > > Roger Pihlaja > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium > From hnw555 at gmail.com Fri Apr 24 11:46:38 2020 From: hnw555 at gmail.com (Hank) Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2020 11:46:38 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Swinging at anchor? In-Reply-To: <02e801d61a4e$27ee53b0$77cafb10$@ca> References: <0FE1FB6B-5147-4CC9-9AA3-E881015C13B1@gmail.com> <026501d61975$3f6e9c90$be4bd5b0$@ca> <88870679.204302.1587650590197@mail.yahoo.com> <02e801d61a4e$27ee53b0$77cafb10$@ca> Message-ID: You also need to ensure that the chain between the float and the anchor is inspected. I used to have an Islander 36 and kept it on a mooring at the Naval Academy. I got a call one day that my boat was missing. It turned out that the chain had broken near the anchor and the marina had not inspected it sufficiently. Fortunately, the weather was pretty calm and it had gently floated across the river and had very little damage. The marina was able to go over and bring it back that same morning. Hank On Fri, Apr 24, 2020 at 11:37 AM Graham Stewart wrote: > It is fascinating to me how what seemed like a simple question of whether > to > use the bow eye or the bow cleat has become so technical - and interesting. > What an amazing list this is. > > Roger makes a distinction between tying up to a mooring or an anchor that I > think is very important. In my earlier post I thought we were talking about > moorings only but clearly that assumption was unwarranted. > > I think I should explain more carefully the risk of using chain with a > mooring. Most moorings use chain between the float and the weight. That > greatly increases the holding power and minimizes the scope that is > required. However, the connection between the float and the boat - whether > to the bow eye or cleat - should be nylon line. The case I mentioned where > a > neighbor had his boat break free and washed ashore occurred because he > connected his mooring chain directly to his bow eye. With little to absorb > the shock the chain snapped within a few hours of rough weather. > > Graham Stewart > Agile 1976 Rhodes 22 > Kingston Ontario > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf > Of > ROGER PIHLAJA > Sent: Friday, April 24, 2020 9:29 AM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Swinging at anchor? > > Hi All, > > By the time I put up the pop top + enclosure and the cockpit boom room > enclosure, S/V Dynamic Equilibrium has so much windage aft of the center of > buoyancy; that, the bow always points strongly into the wind, like a big > weather vane. This weather vane tendency is so strong it overwhelms any > effect that the off center pull from using the bow chock/bow cleat vs. the > bow eye might cause. Yes, in theory, the off center pull does generate a > torque that might cause the boat to sail around its anchor. But, the > weather vane effect from the excess windage aft completely dominates the > boat's response to a wind shift. > > We don't have tidal current shifts here on the great lakes and rivers > always > tend to flow in the same direction. I'd be interested in hearing from > ocean > sailing Rhodies regarding whether anchoring from the bow eye vs. bow > chock/bow cleat makes any difference in the way the boat lies to a current > vs. the way it lies to the wind. My expectation is that there is very > little difference; but, I'd like to hear from people that have actual > experience. > > Regarding the question about using the bow eye vs. the bow chock/bow cleat > when tied up to a mooring - Commercial moorings usually have a huge > mushroom > anchor or engine block buried in the mud and all chain rode up to the > mooring ball. This setup has little, if any, shock absorbing properties. > But, isn't the pennant from the mooring ball up to the boat usually nylon? > Isn't that where the shock absorbing is supposed to occur? If so, you > definitely wouldn't want to use chain here. Given the huge size of the > mooring anchor and all steel chain rode, I don't think it makes much > difference whether you use the bow eye or the bow chock/bow cleat when > tying > up to a mooring. That huge, deeply set, mooring anchor is not going to > move > no matter how much or how little scope you let out. > > Roger Pihlaja > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium > > Sent from Mail for Windows > 10 > > From: Peter Nyberg > Sent: Thursday, April 23, 2020 9:40 PM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Bow Eye vs. Bow Cleat? > > I am in total agreement with Roger on the benefits of anchoring from the > bow > eye rather than the bow cleat. > > My approach to doing so is a little different. I have 10' of 3/8" line > with > a thimble in one end permanently attached to the bow eye with a shackle. I > refer to this line as my 'painter'. When I'm not anchored, the painter is > looped over and tied off to the pulpit. After I've anchored, I attach the > painter to the rode, and let out more scope so that the painter takes the > load. > > In addition to effectively increasing your scope, this approach eliminates > any chafing that might occur where the rode comes over the toe-rail. > > I originally tried this approach because someone way back in the archives > suggested that it would reduce the tendency of R22 to swing on its anchor. > Unfortunately I did not find this to be true to any significant extent. > > Peter Nyberg > Coventry, CT > s/v Silverheels (1988/2016) > > > > On Apr 23, 2020, at 5:51 PM, ROGER PIHLAJA > wrote: > > > > Hi All, > > > > There is a real advantage to rigging the anchor line thru the bow eye vs. > directly to the bow cleat. The choice of the bow eye vs. the bow cleat has > a significant effect on the anchor scope. This is because the bow eye is > ~1.5 ft closer to the water vs the bow cleat. For example, suppose we are > anchoring in 7 feet of water. The bow eye is ~2 feet above the water and > the bow cleat is ~3.5 feet above the water. Suppose we let out 65 feet of > anchor rode. The scope using the bow eye is 65 / (7 + 2) = 7.2 The scope > using the bow cleat is 65 / (7 + 3.5) = 6.2 A scope of 7.2 is sufficient > for decent overnight holding with a minimum 65 foot radius swing circle. A > scope of 6.2 is marginal for an overnight night stay. Sometimes, there > isn't sufficient swing room to let out more anchor rode, say if you are the > last boat to drop the hook in a crowded anchorage. In addition, it's > considered bad anchoring etiquette to use up all the swing room in an > anchorage even if you are the first one there. > > > > Fortunately, you don't have to tie off to the bow eye in order to get the > scope advantage of using it. Simply run the anchor rode thru the bow eye > first, then up to the bow cleat, and cleat it off. This will give you all > the scope advantage of using the bow eye and all the ease of tying off to > the bow cleat. When departing, reach down and hook the anchor rode with a > boat hook below the bow eye. Pull the anchor rode on board, hang on to it, > and then uncleat the rode from the bow cleat. Easy peasy and no stress on > the knees! > > > > I always use the bow eye in the manner described above. There is just no > reason not to, the extra safety margin on scope helps me sleep better, and > I > don't annoy my fellow boaters. > > > > Roger Pihlaja > > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium > > > > > From retiredtoby at gmail.com Fri Apr 24 12:24:16 2020 From: retiredtoby at gmail.com (Cary Tolbert) Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2020 12:24:16 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Deck and cabin top foam Message-ID: In my 86 the top of the cabin has a foam between the deck part of the cabin and the overhead inside the cabin What is the best way to run electrical wires through the foam? I do not need theories here, but actual experence, Thanks Cary Tolber S/V Whisper 86 From roger_pihlaja at msn.com Fri Apr 24 12:35:33 2020 From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA) Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2020 16:35:33 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Bow Eye vs. Bow Cleat? In-Reply-To: References: <0FE1FB6B-5147-4CC9-9AA3-E881015C13B1@gmail.com> <026501d61975$3f6e9c90$be4bd5b0$@ca> <88870679.204302.1587650590197@mail.yahoo.com> , Message-ID: Peter, I simply unhook the anchor chain from the rode, hang the anchor (assuming it?s the Fortress Danforth style) from its holder on the bow pulpit, and pull the few feet of rode backwards thru the bow eye. Then, I recoil the anchor rode back into the bucket ready for its next use. Roger Pihlaja S/V Dynamic Equilibrium Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Peter Nyberg Sent: Friday, April 24, 2020 11:14 AM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Bow Eye vs. Bow Cleat? Roger, You raise a valid point. In order to let out more scope, I would first have to pull in 10 feet of rode. I?m always will to reconsider how I do things, but I?m unclear about some details of your system. After you?ve retrieved your anchor, you?ve got the anchor on deck still attached to the rode, unused rode in a bucket on deck, and the rode still passing through the bow eye. What happens next, to the anchor, and to the rode? ?Peter > On Apr 24, 2020, at 8:22 AM, ROGER PIHLAJA wrote: > > Peter, > > I find if I run the anchor line from the bow eye thru the bow chock and then to the bow cleat; that, I don?t get any chafing. > > If I need to adjust the anchor rode in the middle of the night, mine is neatly coiled up in the bucket on the foredeck ready for use. I just uncleat the anchor rode from the bow cleat and I can do whatever needs doing. The anchor rode slides in either direction thru the bow eye with no issues. With your anchor rode attached to the end of the painter, 10 feet away from the bow and maybe stretched as tight as a guitar string due to a storm &/or tidal flow, what do you do? With the painter attached to the bow eye with a shackle and a thimble, there is no way to quick release it there. If you need to increase the scope quickly, what do you do? > > Roger Pihlaja > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium > From gstewart8 at cogeco.ca Fri Apr 24 12:38:35 2020 From: gstewart8 at cogeco.ca (Graham Stewart) Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2020 12:38:35 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Swinging at anchor? In-Reply-To: <02e801d61a4e$27ee53b0$77cafb10$@ca> References: <0FE1FB6B-5147-4CC9-9AA3-E881015C13B1@gmail.com> <026501d61975$3f6e9c90$be4bd5b0$@ca> <88870679.204302.1587650590197@mail.yahoo.com> <02e801d61a4e$27ee53b0$77cafb10$@ca> Message-ID: <02e901d61a56$cfd08ff0$6f71afd0$@ca> Hank: Your story raises the question about whether an "inspection" of the chain would actually show telltale signs that it was weakening. I would think that hairline cracks would be very difficult to identify where the chain is underwater and, presumably covered with growth. The fact that the chain broke during calm weather is all the more concerning. Does anyone have experience with inspecting mooring chains? Graham -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Graham Stewart Sent: Friday, April 24, 2020 11:37 AM To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Swinging at anchor? It is fascinating to me how what seemed like a simple question of whether to use the bow eye or the bow cleat has become so technical - and interesting. What an amazing list this is. Roger makes a distinction between tying up to a mooring or an anchor that I think is very important. In my earlier post I thought we were talking about moorings only but clearly that assumption was unwarranted. I think I should explain more carefully the risk of using chain with a mooring. Most moorings use chain between the float and the weight. That greatly increases the holding power and minimizes the scope that is required. However, the connection between the float and the boat - whether to the bow eye or cleat - should be nylon line. The case I mentioned where a neighbor had his boat break free and washed ashore occurred because he connected his mooring chain directly to his bow eye. With little to absorb the shock the chain snapped within a few hours of rough weather. Graham Stewart Agile 1976 Rhodes 22 Kingston Ontario -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of ROGER PIHLAJA Sent: Friday, April 24, 2020 9:29 AM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Swinging at anchor? Hi All, By the time I put up the pop top + enclosure and the cockpit boom room enclosure, S/V Dynamic Equilibrium has so much windage aft of the center of buoyancy; that, the bow always points strongly into the wind, like a big weather vane. This weather vane tendency is so strong it overwhelms any effect that the off center pull from using the bow chock/bow cleat vs. the bow eye might cause. Yes, in theory, the off center pull does generate a torque that might cause the boat to sail around its anchor. But, the weather vane effect from the excess windage aft completely dominates the boat's response to a wind shift. We don't have tidal current shifts here on the great lakes and rivers always tend to flow in the same direction. I'd be interested in hearing from ocean sailing Rhodies regarding whether anchoring from the bow eye vs. bow chock/bow cleat makes any difference in the way the boat lies to a current vs. the way it lies to the wind. My expectation is that there is very little difference; but, I'd like to hear from people that have actual experience. Regarding the question about using the bow eye vs. the bow chock/bow cleat when tied up to a mooring - Commercial moorings usually have a huge mushroom anchor or engine block buried in the mud and all chain rode up to the mooring ball. This setup has little, if any, shock absorbing properties. But, isn't the pennant from the mooring ball up to the boat usually nylon? Isn't that where the shock absorbing is supposed to occur? If so, you definitely wouldn't want to use chain here. Given the huge size of the mooring anchor and all steel chain rode, I don't think it makes much difference whether you use the bow eye or the bow chock/bow cleat when tying up to a mooring. That huge, deeply set, mooring anchor is not going to move no matter how much or how little scope you let out. Roger Pihlaja S/V Dynamic Equilibrium Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Peter Nyberg Sent: Thursday, April 23, 2020 9:40 PM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Bow Eye vs. Bow Cleat? I am in total agreement with Roger on the benefits of anchoring from the bow eye rather than the bow cleat. My approach to doing so is a little different. I have 10' of 3/8" line with a thimble in one end permanently attached to the bow eye with a shackle. I refer to this line as my 'painter'. When I'm not anchored, the painter is looped over and tied off to the pulpit. After I've anchored, I attach the painter to the rode, and let out more scope so that the painter takes the load. In addition to effectively increasing your scope, this approach eliminates any chafing that might occur where the rode comes over the toe-rail. I originally tried this approach because someone way back in the archives suggested that it would reduce the tendency of R22 to swing on its anchor. Unfortunately I did not find this to be true to any significant extent. Peter Nyberg Coventry, CT s/v Silverheels (1988/2016) > On Apr 23, 2020, at 5:51 PM, ROGER PIHLAJA wrote: > > Hi All, > > There is a real advantage to rigging the anchor line thru the bow eye vs. directly to the bow cleat. The choice of the bow eye vs. the bow cleat has a significant effect on the anchor scope. This is because the bow eye is ~1.5 ft closer to the water vs the bow cleat. For example, suppose we are anchoring in 7 feet of water. The bow eye is ~2 feet above the water and the bow cleat is ~3.5 feet above the water. Suppose we let out 65 feet of anchor rode. The scope using the bow eye is 65 / (7 + 2) = 7.2 The scope using the bow cleat is 65 / (7 + 3.5) = 6.2 A scope of 7.2 is sufficient for decent overnight holding with a minimum 65 foot radius swing circle. A scope of 6.2 is marginal for an overnight night stay. Sometimes, there isn't sufficient swing room to let out more anchor rode, say if you are the last boat to drop the hook in a crowded anchorage. In addition, it's considered bad anchoring etiquette to use up all the swing room in an anchorage even if you are the first one there. > > Fortunately, you don't have to tie off to the bow eye in order to get the scope advantage of using it. Simply run the anchor rode thru the bow eye first, then up to the bow cleat, and cleat it off. This will give you all the scope advantage of using the bow eye and all the ease of tying off to the bow cleat. When departing, reach down and hook the anchor rode with a boat hook below the bow eye. Pull the anchor rode on board, hang on to it, and then uncleat the rode from the bow cleat. Easy peasy and no stress on the knees! > > I always use the bow eye in the manner described above. There is just no reason not to, the extra safety margin on scope helps me sleep better, and I don't annoy my fellow boaters. > > Roger Pihlaja > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium > From mweisner at ebsmed.com Fri Apr 24 12:55:48 2020 From: mweisner at ebsmed.com (Michael D. Weisner) Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2020 12:55:48 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Swinging at anchor? In-Reply-To: References: <0FE1FB6B-5147-4CC9-9AA3-E881015C13B1@gmail.com> <026501d61975$3f6e9c90$be4bd5b0$@ca> <88870679.204302.1587650590197@mail.yahoo.com> , Message-ID: <001901d61a59$34cd7560$9e686020$@ebsmed.com> Both of my Rhodes, Wind Lass (1991) and, previously Shanghai'd Summer (1981), spend their summers, when not under sail, in the Nissequogue River on a 250 lbs. mushroom anchor mooring. To properly set the anchor and provide ample scope, the anchor has 35' of 1/2" chain from the mushroom "eye" to the mooring float with a swivel located 10' below the surface. The mean low water in the mooring basin is 8' and we experience a 8+' tidal change. The chain is brought through the float and connects to a pair of 12' x 5/8" double braided nylon mooring pennants using a 6" shackle through the spliced stainless steel thimbles and the top link of the chain. The mooring pennants are run through the bow chocks (on the toe rails) to the two docking cleats in the center of the bow deck. The soft eyes are run under the center of the cleat and secured over the ears of the cleats. It doesn't matter which line (port or starboard) is routed to each cleat (fore or aft). This gives me double connection to the mooring, at least above the waterline. The only issue is some twisting as the boat sails around the mooring. If it is significant, it means that I have not been sailing enough. Since the mooring basin contains mixed craft, power and sail, and has a 5 know current at peak tidal flow, the boats "sail" quite a bit. The interesting thing is that the power boats seem to be affected by wind and currents in opposite manner to the sailboats, much of the time. For this reason, the moorings need to widely spaced to avoid collisions when moored. I prefer the double braid lines to the three strand braids. They both stretch about 15% to take up shock but the double braids seem to last longer. The triple braids sometimes "open up" or unbraid as the loads change during tides. The mooring anchor was only moved a couple of times while the boat was moored and that was during hurricanes when I was unable to retrieve the boat due to travel plans. No serious damage resulted, fortunately. I am happy that BoatUS insurance will pay the retrieval costs in the event of a storm if I am unable in an effort to mitigate risk. After nearly 40 years, I prefer the mooring over the slip for security and ease of sailing. I can sail right off the mooring and back on to it if the winds and currents are favorable. I use a pickup buoy with a 6' flag which is easily retrieved at the bow by hand or with a pole. Mike s/v Wind Lass ('91) Nissequogue River, NY -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of ROGER PIHLAJA Sent: Friday, April 24, 2020 9:29 AM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Swinging at anchor? Hi All, By the time I put up the pop top + enclosure and the cockpit boom room enclosure, S/V Dynamic Equilibrium has so much windage aft of the center of buoyancy; that, the bow always points strongly into the wind, like a big weather vane. This weather vane tendency is so strong it overwhelms any effect that the off center pull from using the bow chock/bow cleat vs. the bow eye might cause. Yes, in theory, the off center pull does generate a torque that might cause the boat to sail around its anchor. But, the weather vane effect from the excess windage aft completely dominates the boat's response to a wind shift. We don't have tidal current shifts here on the great lakes and rivers always tend to flow in the same direction. I'd be interested in hearing from ocean sailing Rhodies regarding whether anchoring from the bow eye vs. bow chock/bow cleat makes any difference in the way the boat lies to a current vs. the way it lies to the wind. My expectation is that there is very little difference; but, I'd like to hear from people that have actual experience. Regarding the question about using the bow eye vs. the bow chock/bow cleat when tied up to a mooring - Commercial moorings usually have a huge mushroom anchor or engine block buried in the mud and all chain rode up to the mooring ball. This setup has little, if any, shock absorbing properties. But, isn't the pennant from the mooring ball up to the boat usually nylon? Isn't that where the shock absorbing is supposed to occur? If so, you definitely wouldn't want to use chain here. Given the huge size of the mooring anchor and all steel chain rode, I don't think it makes much difference whether you use the bow eye or the bow chock/bow cleat when tying up to a mooring. That huge, deeply set, mooring anchor is not going to move no matter how much or how little scope you let out. Roger Pihlaja S/V Dynamic Equilibrium Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Peter Nyberg Sent: Thursday, April 23, 2020 9:40 PM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Bow Eye vs. Bow Cleat? I am in total agreement with Roger on the benefits of anchoring from the bow eye rather than the bow cleat. My approach to doing so is a little different. I have 10' of 3/8" line with a thimble in one end permanently attached to the bow eye with a shackle. I refer to this line as my 'painter'. When I'm not anchored, the painter is looped over and tied off to the pulpit. After I've anchored, I attach the painter to the rode, and let out more scope so that the painter takes the load. In addition to effectively increasing your scope, this approach eliminates any chafing that might occur where the rode comes over the toe-rail. I originally tried this approach because someone way back in the archives suggested that it would reduce the tendency of R22 to swing on its anchor. Unfortunately I did not find this to be true to any significant extent. Peter Nyberg Coventry, CT s/v Silverheels (1988/2016) > On Apr 23, 2020, at 5:51 PM, ROGER PIHLAJA wrote: > > Hi All, > > There is a real advantage to rigging the anchor line thru the bow eye vs. directly to the bow cleat. The choice of the bow eye vs. the bow cleat has a significant effect on the anchor scope. This is because the bow eye is ~1.5 ft closer to the water vs the bow cleat. For example, suppose we are anchoring in 7 feet of water. The bow eye is ~2 feet above the water and the bow cleat is ~3.5 feet above the water. Suppose we let out 65 feet of anchor rode. The scope using the bow eye is 65 / (7 + 2) = 7.2 The scope using the bow cleat is 65 / (7 + 3.5) = 6.2 A scope of 7.2 is sufficient for decent overnight holding with a minimum 65 foot radius swing circle. A scope of 6.2 is marginal for an overnight night stay. Sometimes, there isn't sufficient swing room to let out more anchor rode, say if you are the last boat to drop the hook in a crowded anchorage. In addition, it's considered bad anchoring etiquette to use up all the swing room in an anchorage even if you are the first one there. > > Fortunately, you don't have to tie off to the bow eye in order to get the scope advantage of using it. Simply run the anchor rode thru the bow eye first, then up to the bow cleat, and cleat it off. This will give you all the scope advantage of using the bow eye and all the ease of tying off to the bow cleat. When departing, reach down and hook the anchor rode with a boat hook below the bow eye. Pull the anchor rode on board, hang on to it, and then uncleat the rode from the bow cleat. Easy peasy and no stress on the knees! > > I always use the bow eye in the manner described above. There is just no reason not to, the extra safety margin on scope helps me sleep better, and I don't annoy my fellow boaters. > > Roger Pihlaja > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium > From peter at sunnybeeches.com Fri Apr 24 13:25:28 2020 From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg) Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2020 13:25:28 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Bow Eye vs. Bow Cleat? In-Reply-To: References: <0FE1FB6B-5147-4CC9-9AA3-E881015C13B1@gmail.com> <026501d61975$3f6e9c90$be4bd5b0$@ca> <88870679.204302.1587650590197@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <99A9469B-267D-4C7D-9F26-3B78CEF06431@sunnybeeches.com> So, if I understand correctly, you re-thread the rode through the bow eye each time you anchor. I?ll admit that I?ve never tried to reach the bow eye from the deck of the boat, but it doesn?t sound like an easy maneuver. ?Peter > On Apr 24, 2020, at 12:35 PM, ROGER PIHLAJA wrote: > > Peter, > > I simply unhook the anchor chain from the rode, hang the anchor (assuming it?s the Fortress Danforth style) from its holder on the bow pulpit, and pull the few feet of rode backwards thru the bow eye. Then, I recoil the anchor rode back into the bucket ready for its next use. > > Roger Pihlaja > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium > > Sent from Mail for Windows 10 > > From: Peter Nyberg > Sent: Friday, April 24, 2020 11:14 AM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Bow Eye vs. Bow Cleat? > > Roger, > > You raise a valid point. In order to let out more scope, I would first have to pull in 10 feet of rode. > > I?m always will to reconsider how I do things, but I?m unclear about some details of your system. After you?ve retrieved your anchor, you?ve got the anchor on deck still attached to the rode, unused rode in a bucket on deck, and the rode still passing through the bow eye. What happens next, to the anchor, and to the rode? > > ?Peter From roger_pihlaja at msn.com Fri Apr 24 13:30:36 2020 From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA) Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2020 17:30:36 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Bow Eye vs. Bow Cleat? In-Reply-To: <99A9469B-267D-4C7D-9F26-3B78CEF06431@sunnybeeches.com> References: <0FE1FB6B-5147-4CC9-9AA3-E881015C13B1@gmail.com> <026501d61975$3f6e9c90$be4bd5b0$@ca> <88870679.204302.1587650590197@mail.yahoo.com> , <99A9469B-267D-4C7D-9F26-3B78CEF06431@sunnybeeches.com> Message-ID: Peter, You just lie down on the foredeck, reach thru the bow pulpit stanchions, and the bow eye is right there. It?s helpful to have the anchor rode threaded thru the bow eye as part of the prep for dropping the anchor. Roger Pihlaja S/V Dynamic Equilibrium Sent from my iPhone > On Apr 24, 2020, at 1:26 PM, Peter Nyberg wrote: > > ?So, if I understand correctly, you re-thread the rode through the bow eye each time you anchor. I?ll admit that I?ve never tried to reach the bow eye from the deck of the boat, but it doesn?t sound like an easy maneuver. > > ?Peter > >> On Apr 24, 2020, at 12:35 PM, ROGER PIHLAJA wrote: >> >> Peter, >> >> I simply unhook the anchor chain from the rode, hang the anchor (assuming it?s the Fortress Danforth style) from its holder on the bow pulpit, and pull the few feet of rode backwards thru the bow eye. Then, I recoil the anchor rode back into the bucket ready for its next use. >> >> Roger Pihlaja >> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium >> >> Sent from Mail for Windows 10 >> >> From: Peter Nyberg >> Sent: Friday, April 24, 2020 11:14 AM >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Bow Eye vs. Bow Cleat? >> >> Roger, >> >> You raise a valid point. In order to let out more scope, I would first have to pull in 10 feet of rode. >> >> I?m always will to reconsider how I do things, but I?m unclear about some details of your system. After you?ve retrieved your anchor, you?ve got the anchor on deck still attached to the rode, unused rode in a bucket on deck, and the rode still passing through the bow eye. What happens next, to the anchor, and to the rode? >> >> ?Peter > From chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com Fri Apr 24 16:15:53 2020 From: chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com (Chris Geankoplis) Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2020 16:15:53 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Swinging at anchor? In-Reply-To: References: <0FE1FB6B-5147-4CC9-9AA3-E881015C13B1@gmail.com> <026501d61975$3f6e9c90$be4bd5b0$@ca> <88870679.204302.1587650590197@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I like the bow eye and painter anchoring method. I?ll try it next year when I can get to Enosis in Greece. I was given as a gift a riding sail similar to a Banner Bay sail. I don?t use a boom room so I?m not a windvane and the boat hunts a lot. With the riding sail it is rock steady. If the swell is off from the wind I can often bring the bow into the swell for a nice night?s sleep using an appropriate preventer. I don?t use it if there are strong altering tidal currents. Chris Geankoplis ENOSIS On Fri, 24 Apr 2020 at 09:28, ROGER PIHLAJA wrote: > Hi All, > > By the time I put up the pop top + enclosure and the cockpit boom room > enclosure, S/V Dynamic Equilibrium has so much windage aft of the center of > buoyancy; that, the bow always points strongly into the wind, like a big > weather vane. This weather vane tendency is so strong it overwhelms any > effect that the off center pull from using the bow chock/bow cleat vs. the > bow eye might cause. Yes, in theory, the off center pull does generate a > torque that might cause the boat to sail around its anchor. But, the > weather vane effect from the excess windage aft completely dominates the > boat?s response to a wind shift. > > We don?t have tidal current shifts here on the great lakes and rivers > always tend to flow in the same direction. I?d be interested in hearing > from ocean sailing Rhodies regarding whether anchoring from the bow eye vs. > bow chock/bow cleat makes any difference in the way the boat lies to a > current vs. the way it lies to the wind. My expectation is that there is > very little difference; but, I?d like to hear from people that have actual > experience. > > Regarding the question about using the bow eye vs. the bow chock/bow cleat > when tied up to a mooring ? Commercial moorings usually have a huge > mushroom anchor or engine block buried in the mud and all chain rode up to > the mooring ball. This setup has little, if any, shock absorbing > properties. But, isn?t the pennant from the mooring ball up to the boat > usually nylon? Isn?t that where the shock absorbing is supposed to occur? > If so, you definitely wouldn?t want to use chain here. Given the huge size > of the mooring anchor and all steel chain rode, I don?t think it makes much > difference whether you use the bow eye or the bow chock/bow cleat when > tying up to a mooring. That huge, deeply set, mooring anchor is not going > to move no matter how much or how little scope you let out. > > Roger Pihlaja > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > > From: Peter Nyberg > Sent: Thursday, April 23, 2020 9:40 PM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Bow Eye vs. Bow Cleat? > > I am in total agreement with Roger on the benefits of anchoring from the > bow eye rather than the bow cleat. > > My approach to doing so is a little different. I have 10? of 3/8? line > with a thimble in one end permanently attached to the bow eye with a > shackle. I refer to this line as my ?painter?. When I?m not anchored, the > painter is looped over and tied off to the pulpit. After I?ve anchored, I > attach the painter to the rode, and let out more scope so that the painter > takes the load. > > In addition to effectively increasing your scope, this approach eliminates > any chafing that might occur where the rode comes over the toe-rail. > > I originally tried this approach because someone way back in the archives > suggested that it would reduce the tendency of R22 to swing on its anchor. > Unfortunately I did not find this to be true to any significant extent. > > Peter Nyberg > Coventry, CT > s/v Silverheels (1988/2016) > > > > On Apr 23, 2020, at 5:51 PM, ROGER PIHLAJA > wrote: > > > > Hi All, > > > > There is a real advantage to rigging the anchor line thru the bow eye > vs. directly to the bow cleat. The choice of the bow eye vs. the bow cleat > has a significant effect on the anchor scope. This is because the bow eye > is ~1.5 ft closer to the water vs the bow cleat. For example, suppose we > are anchoring in 7 feet of water. The bow eye is ~2 feet above the water > and the bow cleat is ~3.5 feet above the water. Suppose we let out 65 feet > of anchor rode. The scope using the bow eye is 65 / (7 + 2) = 7.2 The > scope using the bow cleat is 65 / (7 + 3.5) = 6.2 A scope of 7.2 is > sufficient for decent overnight holding with a minimum 65 foot radius swing > circle. A scope of 6.2 is marginal for an overnight night stay. > Sometimes, there isn?t sufficient swing room to let out more anchor rode, > say if you are the last boat to drop the hook in a crowded anchorage. In > addition, it?s considered bad anchoring etiquette to use up all the swing > room in an anchorage even if you are the first one there. > > > > Fortunately, you don?t have to tie off to the bow eye in order to get > the scope advantage of using it. Simply run the anchor rode thru the bow > eye first, then up to the bow cleat, and cleat it off. This will give you > all the scope advantage of using the bow eye and all the ease of tying off > to the bow cleat. When departing, reach down and hook the anchor rode with > a boat hook below the bow eye. Pull the anchor rode on board, hang on to > it, and then uncleat the rode from the bow cleat. Easy peasy and no stress > on the knees! > > > > I always use the bow eye in the manner described above. There is just > no reason not to, the extra safety margin on scope helps me sleep better, > and I don?t annoy my fellow boaters. > > > > Roger Pihlaja > > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium > > > > From jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com Fri Apr 24 17:36:22 2020 From: jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com (JeffSmith) Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2020 14:36:22 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Bow Eye vs. Bow Cleat? In-Reply-To: References: <026501d61975$3f6e9c90$be4bd5b0$@ca> <88870679.204302.1587650590197@mail.yahoo.com> <99A9469B-267D-4C7D-9F26-3B78CEF06431@sunnybeeches.com> Message-ID: <1587764182183-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Newbie here. I have yet to anchor an R22, but have had larger sailboats previously. I like the idea of anchoring from the bow eye for all the reasons given and dislike it because of having to lie down on my stomach to thread the chain through the bow eye and up to the anchor. Radiant has bow cleats port and starboard - not chocks and a central cleat. 1. Tie off one end of dock line to one cleat and run the loop end through the bow eye and up on deck. 2. Run the chain end through the loop of the dock line. 3. Attach chain to anchor. 4. Deploy anchor and let out appropriate length of rhode and back down on anchor. 5. Snub dock line and anchor rhode up to the bow eye and tie the dock line off on the opposite cleat as the rhode. The advantages are that the soft dock line does not chafe the anchor rhode and to let out more scope just ease the dock line and re-snub after letting out rhode. Also lie on belly only on initial set up of dock line which can be left attached and easily used as a regular dock line. ----- Jeff Smith 2009 R22 #101 RADIANT Atlantic Highlands Municpal Harbor Atlantic Highlands, NJ -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From shawn.sustain at gmail.com Fri Apr 24 18:24:31 2020 From: shawn.sustain at gmail.com (Shawn Boles) Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2020 15:24:31 -0700 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Swinging at anchor? In-Reply-To: References: <0FE1FB6B-5147-4CC9-9AA3-E881015C13B1@gmail.com> <026501d61975$3f6e9c90$be4bd5b0$@ca> <88870679.204302.1587650590197@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Hi Chris: I thought you had a riding sail and that it worked well for you. If you still have pictures could you post them? Thanks and cheers, Shawn s/v Sweet Baboo On Fri, Apr 24, 2020, 1:16 PM Chris Geankoplis wrote: > I like the bow eye and painter anchoring method. I?ll try it next year when > I can get to Enosis in Greece. I was given as a gift a riding sail similar > to a Banner Bay sail. I don?t use a boom room so I?m not a windvane and the > boat hunts a lot. With the riding sail it is rock steady. If the swell is > off from the wind I can often bring the bow into the swell for a nice > night?s sleep using an appropriate preventer. I don?t use it if there are > strong altering tidal currents. > > Chris Geankoplis > > ENOSIS > > On Fri, 24 Apr 2020 at 09:28, ROGER PIHLAJA wrote: > > > Hi All, > > > > By the time I put up the pop top + enclosure and the cockpit boom room > > enclosure, S/V Dynamic Equilibrium has so much windage aft of the center > of > > buoyancy; that, the bow always points strongly into the wind, like a big > > weather vane. This weather vane tendency is so strong it overwhelms any > > effect that the off center pull from using the bow chock/bow cleat vs. > the > > bow eye might cause. Yes, in theory, the off center pull does generate a > > torque that might cause the boat to sail around its anchor. But, the > > weather vane effect from the excess windage aft completely dominates the > > boat?s response to a wind shift. > > > > We don?t have tidal current shifts here on the great lakes and rivers > > always tend to flow in the same direction. I?d be interested in hearing > > from ocean sailing Rhodies regarding whether anchoring from the bow eye > vs. > > bow chock/bow cleat makes any difference in the way the boat lies to a > > current vs. the way it lies to the wind. My expectation is that there is > > very little difference; but, I?d like to hear from people that have > actual > > experience. > > > > Regarding the question about using the bow eye vs. the bow chock/bow > cleat > > when tied up to a mooring ? Commercial moorings usually have a huge > > mushroom anchor or engine block buried in the mud and all chain rode up > to > > the mooring ball. This setup has little, if any, shock absorbing > > properties. But, isn?t the pennant from the mooring ball up to the boat > > usually nylon? Isn?t that where the shock absorbing is supposed to > occur? > > If so, you definitely wouldn?t want to use chain here. Given the huge > size > > of the mooring anchor and all steel chain rode, I don?t think it makes > much > > difference whether you use the bow eye or the bow chock/bow cleat when > > tying up to a mooring. That huge, deeply set, mooring anchor is not > going > > to move no matter how much or how little scope you let out. > > > > Roger Pihlaja > > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium > > > > Sent from Mail for > > Windows 10 > > > > From: Peter Nyberg > > Sent: Thursday, April 23, 2020 9:40 PM > > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Bow Eye vs. Bow Cleat? > > > > I am in total agreement with Roger on the benefits of anchoring from the > > bow eye rather than the bow cleat. > > > > My approach to doing so is a little different. I have 10? of 3/8? line > > with a thimble in one end permanently attached to the bow eye with a > > shackle. I refer to this line as my ?painter?. When I?m not anchored, > the > > painter is looped over and tied off to the pulpit. After I?ve anchored, > I > > attach the painter to the rode, and let out more scope so that the > painter > > takes the load. > > > > In addition to effectively increasing your scope, this approach > eliminates > > any chafing that might occur where the rode comes over the toe-rail. > > > > I originally tried this approach because someone way back in the archives > > suggested that it would reduce the tendency of R22 to swing on its > anchor. > > Unfortunately I did not find this to be true to any significant extent. > > > > Peter Nyberg > > Coventry, CT > > s/v Silverheels (1988/2016) > > > > > > > On Apr 23, 2020, at 5:51 PM, ROGER PIHLAJA > > wrote: > > > > > > Hi All, > > > > > > There is a real advantage to rigging the anchor line thru the bow eye > > vs. directly to the bow cleat. The choice of the bow eye vs. the bow > cleat > > has a significant effect on the anchor scope. This is because the bow > eye > > is ~1.5 ft closer to the water vs the bow cleat. For example, suppose we > > are anchoring in 7 feet of water. The bow eye is ~2 feet above the water > > and the bow cleat is ~3.5 feet above the water. Suppose we let out 65 > feet > > of anchor rode. The scope using the bow eye is 65 / (7 + 2) = 7.2 The > > scope using the bow cleat is 65 / (7 + 3.5) = 6.2 A scope of 7.2 is > > sufficient for decent overnight holding with a minimum 65 foot radius > swing > > circle. A scope of 6.2 is marginal for an overnight night stay. > > Sometimes, there isn?t sufficient swing room to let out more anchor rode, > > say if you are the last boat to drop the hook in a crowded anchorage. In > > addition, it?s considered bad anchoring etiquette to use up all the swing > > room in an anchorage even if you are the first one there. > > > > > > Fortunately, you don?t have to tie off to the bow eye in order to get > > the scope advantage of using it. Simply run the anchor rode thru the bow > > eye first, then up to the bow cleat, and cleat it off. This will give > you > > all the scope advantage of using the bow eye and all the ease of tying > off > > to the bow cleat. When departing, reach down and hook the anchor rode > with > > a boat hook below the bow eye. Pull the anchor rode on board, hang on to > > it, and then uncleat the rode from the bow cleat. Easy peasy and no > stress > > on the knees! > > > > > > I always use the bow eye in the manner described above. There is just > > no reason not to, the extra safety margin on scope helps me sleep better, > > and I don?t annoy my fellow boaters. > > > > > > Roger Pihlaja > > > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium > > > > > > > > From jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com Fri Apr 24 19:33:18 2020 From: jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com (Jesse Shumaker) Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2020 16:33:18 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Spring Lines In-Reply-To: <2DA0FE86-708A-449A-A99D-F649B30F408D@sunnybeeches.com> References: <379D4DD7-E316-44A4-9FA0-121C34E32793@gmail.com> <1587582768220-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <01EDBFD1-02A1-48F4-AF61-48FBD0B05228@gmail.com> <2DA0FE86-708A-449A-A99D-F649B30F408D@sunnybeeches.com> Message-ID: <1587771198054-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Thanks for the tips on where to get the midship cleats to mount on the genoa tracks. -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From ruckc at yahoo.com Fri Apr 24 19:15:05 2020 From: ruckc at yahoo.com (Curtis Ruck) Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2020 19:15:05 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Deck Check Blocks References: Message-ID: I have a '79 Rhodes with two deck check blocks that need replacing. The plastic wheel got crushed with some overeager hoisting with winch of the mainsail while single handing in 12 knot wind. They only say BARTON ENGLAND CH.92. anyone know what I should replace them with? Hopefully using the same screwholes, or if not, I want to upsize them some. I can't find anything about their specs online. -Curtis s/v Ruck It Georgia -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_20200424_191419.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 3166196 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_20200424_191425.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 3372287 bytes Desc: not available URL: From mweisner at ebsmed.com Fri Apr 24 22:02:42 2020 From: mweisner at ebsmed.com (Michael D. Weisner) Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2020 22:02:42 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Deck Check Blocks In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <003f01d61aa5$9c4f7f70$d4ee7e50$@ebsmed.com> It looks like a Barton Marine cheek block. Take a look at http://www.bartonmarine.com/products-size-2-blocks.asp. There are many sizes (scroll down). Mike s/v Wind Lass ('91) Nissequogue River, NY -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of Curtis Ruck via Rhodes22-list Sent: Friday, April 24, 2020 7:15 PM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Deck Check Blocks I have a '79 Rhodes with two deck check blocks that need replacing. The plastic wheel got crushed with some overeager hoisting with winch of the mainsail while single handing in 12 knot wind. They only say BARTON ENGLAND CH.92. anyone know what I should replace them with? Hopefully using the same screwholes, or if not, I want to upsize them some. I can't find anything about their specs online. -Curtis s/v Ruck It Georgia -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_20200424_191419.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 3166196 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_20200424_191425.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 3372287 bytes Desc: not available URL: From chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com Fri Apr 24 22:04:01 2020 From: chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com (Chris Geankoplis) Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2020 22:04:01 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Swinging at anchor? In-Reply-To: References: <0FE1FB6B-5147-4CC9-9AA3-E881015C13B1@gmail.com> <026501d61975$3f6e9c90$be4bd5b0$@ca> <88870679.204302.1587650590197@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: So Shawn, Attached is an old picture of Enosis in Mexico with the riding sail. We had just turned over the boat to my son (6'3) and his 4 friends (6 to 6'6" tall). No, I have no Idea how they managed for almost 2 weeks on that boat in Mexico. Yes the riding sail works well in many situations. Chris Geankoplis ENOSIS On Fri, Apr 24, 2020 at 6:24 PM Shawn Boles wrote: > Hi Chris: > > I thought you had a riding sail and that it worked well for you. If you > still have pictures could you post them? > > Thanks and cheers, > > Shawn > s/v Sweet Baboo > > > > > On Fri, Apr 24, 2020, 1:16 PM Chris Geankoplis > wrote: > > > I like the bow eye and painter anchoring method. I?ll try it next year > when > > I can get to Enosis in Greece. I was given as a gift a riding sail > similar > > to a Banner Bay sail. I don?t use a boom room so I?m not a windvane and > the > > boat hunts a lot. With the riding sail it is rock steady. If the swell is > > off from the wind I can often bring the bow into the swell for a nice > > night?s sleep using an appropriate preventer. I don?t use it if there are > > strong altering tidal currents. > > > > Chris Geankoplis > > > > ENOSIS > > > > On Fri, 24 Apr 2020 at 09:28, ROGER PIHLAJA > wrote: > > > > > Hi All, > > > > > > By the time I put up the pop top + enclosure and the cockpit boom room > > > enclosure, S/V Dynamic Equilibrium has so much windage aft of the > center > > of > > > buoyancy; that, the bow always points strongly into the wind, like a > big > > > weather vane. This weather vane tendency is so strong it overwhelms > any > > > effect that the off center pull from using the bow chock/bow cleat vs. > > the > > > bow eye might cause. Yes, in theory, the off center pull does > generate a > > > torque that might cause the boat to sail around its anchor. But, the > > > weather vane effect from the excess windage aft completely dominates > the > > > boat?s response to a wind shift. > > > > > > We don?t have tidal current shifts here on the great lakes and rivers > > > always tend to flow in the same direction. I?d be interested in > hearing > > > from ocean sailing Rhodies regarding whether anchoring from the bow eye > > vs. > > > bow chock/bow cleat makes any difference in the way the boat lies to a > > > current vs. the way it lies to the wind. My expectation is that there > is > > > very little difference; but, I?d like to hear from people that have > > actual > > > experience. > > > > > > Regarding the question about using the bow eye vs. the bow chock/bow > > cleat > > > when tied up to a mooring ? Commercial moorings usually have a huge > > > mushroom anchor or engine block buried in the mud and all chain rode up > > to > > > the mooring ball. This setup has little, if any, shock absorbing > > > properties. But, isn?t the pennant from the mooring ball up to the > boat > > > usually nylon? Isn?t that where the shock absorbing is supposed to > > occur? > > > If so, you definitely wouldn?t want to use chain here. Given the huge > > size > > > of the mooring anchor and all steel chain rode, I don?t think it makes > > much > > > difference whether you use the bow eye or the bow chock/bow cleat when > > > tying up to a mooring. That huge, deeply set, mooring anchor is not > > going > > > to move no matter how much or how little scope you let out. > > > > > > Roger Pihlaja > > > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium > > > > > > Sent from Mail for > > > Windows 10 > > > > > > From: Peter Nyberg > > > Sent: Thursday, April 23, 2020 9:40 PM > > > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > > > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Bow Eye vs. Bow Cleat? > > > > > > I am in total agreement with Roger on the benefits of anchoring from > the > > > bow eye rather than the bow cleat. > > > > > > My approach to doing so is a little different. I have 10? of 3/8? line > > > with a thimble in one end permanently attached to the bow eye with a > > > shackle. I refer to this line as my ?painter?. When I?m not anchored, > > the > > > painter is looped over and tied off to the pulpit. After I?ve > anchored, > > I > > > attach the painter to the rode, and let out more scope so that the > > painter > > > takes the load. > > > > > > In addition to effectively increasing your scope, this approach > > eliminates > > > any chafing that might occur where the rode comes over the toe-rail. > > > > > > I originally tried this approach because someone way back in the > archives > > > suggested that it would reduce the tendency of R22 to swing on its > > anchor. > > > Unfortunately I did not find this to be true to any significant extent. > > > > > > Peter Nyberg > > > Coventry, CT > > > s/v Silverheels (1988/2016) > > > > > > > > > > On Apr 23, 2020, at 5:51 PM, ROGER PIHLAJA > > > wrote: > > > > > > > > Hi All, > > > > > > > > There is a real advantage to rigging the anchor line thru the bow eye > > > vs. directly to the bow cleat. The choice of the bow eye vs. the bow > > cleat > > > has a significant effect on the anchor scope. This is because the bow > > eye > > > is ~1.5 ft closer to the water vs the bow cleat. For example, suppose > we > > > are anchoring in 7 feet of water. The bow eye is ~2 feet above the > water > > > and the bow cleat is ~3.5 feet above the water. Suppose we let out 65 > > feet > > > of anchor rode. The scope using the bow eye is 65 / (7 + 2) = 7.2 The > > > scope using the bow cleat is 65 / (7 + 3.5) = 6.2 A scope of 7.2 is > > > sufficient for decent overnight holding with a minimum 65 foot radius > > swing > > > circle. A scope of 6.2 is marginal for an overnight night stay. > > > Sometimes, there isn?t sufficient swing room to let out more anchor > rode, > > > say if you are the last boat to drop the hook in a crowded anchorage. > In > > > addition, it?s considered bad anchoring etiquette to use up all the > swing > > > room in an anchorage even if you are the first one there. > > > > > > > > Fortunately, you don?t have to tie off to the bow eye in order to get > > > the scope advantage of using it. Simply run the anchor rode thru the > bow > > > eye first, then up to the bow cleat, and cleat it off. This will give > > you > > > all the scope advantage of using the bow eye and all the ease of tying > > off > > > to the bow cleat. When departing, reach down and hook the anchor rode > > with > > > a boat hook below the bow eye. Pull the anchor rode on board, hang on > to > > > it, and then uncleat the rode from the bow cleat. Easy peasy and no > > stress > > > on the knees! > > > > > > > > I always use the bow eye in the manner described above. There is > just > > > no reason not to, the extra safety margin on scope helps me sleep > better, > > > and I don?t annoy my fellow boaters. > > > > > > > > Roger Pihlaja > > > > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium > > > > > > > > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: P1010113 (2).jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 27218 bytes Desc: not available URL: From sea20 at verizon.net Sat Apr 25 08:12:07 2020 From: sea20 at verizon.net (Scott Andrews) Date: Sat, 25 Apr 2020 08:12:07 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Swinging at anchor? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I help set moorings for a small club and the float to anchor chain will fail if not inspected, there is often a swivel link near the middle that will go first. Sent from my iPhone > On Apr 24, 2020, at 11:47 AM, Hank wrote: > > ?You also need to ensure that the chain between the float and the anchor is > inspected. I used to have an Islander 36 and kept it on a mooring at the > Naval Academy. I got a call one day that my boat was missing. It turned > out that the chain had broken near the anchor and the marina had not > inspected it sufficiently. Fortunately, the weather was pretty calm and it > had gently floated across the river and had very little damage. The marina > was able to go over and bring it back that same morning. > > Hank > >> On Fri, Apr 24, 2020 at 11:37 AM Graham Stewart wrote: >> >> It is fascinating to me how what seemed like a simple question of whether >> to >> use the bow eye or the bow cleat has become so technical - and interesting. >> What an amazing list this is. >> >> Roger makes a distinction between tying up to a mooring or an anchor that I >> think is very important. In my earlier post I thought we were talking about >> moorings only but clearly that assumption was unwarranted. >> >> I think I should explain more carefully the risk of using chain with a >> mooring. Most moorings use chain between the float and the weight. That >> greatly increases the holding power and minimizes the scope that is >> required. However, the connection between the float and the boat - whether >> to the bow eye or cleat - should be nylon line. The case I mentioned where >> a >> neighbor had his boat break free and washed ashore occurred because he >> connected his mooring chain directly to his bow eye. With little to absorb >> the shock the chain snapped within a few hours of rough weather. >> >> Graham Stewart >> Agile 1976 Rhodes 22 >> Kingston Ontario >> >> >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf >> Of >> ROGER PIHLAJA >> Sent: Friday, April 24, 2020 9:29 AM >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List >> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Swinging at anchor? >> >> Hi All, >> >> By the time I put up the pop top + enclosure and the cockpit boom room >> enclosure, S/V Dynamic Equilibrium has so much windage aft of the center of >> buoyancy; that, the bow always points strongly into the wind, like a big >> weather vane. This weather vane tendency is so strong it overwhelms any >> effect that the off center pull from using the bow chock/bow cleat vs. the >> bow eye might cause. Yes, in theory, the off center pull does generate a >> torque that might cause the boat to sail around its anchor. But, the >> weather vane effect from the excess windage aft completely dominates the >> boat's response to a wind shift. >> >> We don't have tidal current shifts here on the great lakes and rivers >> always >> tend to flow in the same direction. I'd be interested in hearing from >> ocean >> sailing Rhodies regarding whether anchoring from the bow eye vs. bow >> chock/bow cleat makes any difference in the way the boat lies to a current >> vs. the way it lies to the wind. My expectation is that there is very >> little difference; but, I'd like to hear from people that have actual >> experience. >> >> Regarding the question about using the bow eye vs. the bow chock/bow cleat >> when tied up to a mooring - Commercial moorings usually have a huge >> mushroom >> anchor or engine block buried in the mud and all chain rode up to the >> mooring ball. This setup has little, if any, shock absorbing properties. >> But, isn't the pennant from the mooring ball up to the boat usually nylon? >> Isn't that where the shock absorbing is supposed to occur? If so, you >> definitely wouldn't want to use chain here. Given the huge size of the >> mooring anchor and all steel chain rode, I don't think it makes much >> difference whether you use the bow eye or the bow chock/bow cleat when >> tying >> up to a mooring. That huge, deeply set, mooring anchor is not going to >> move >> no matter how much or how little scope you let out. >> >> Roger Pihlaja >> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium >> >> Sent from Mail for Windows >> 10 >> >> From: Peter Nyberg >> Sent: Thursday, April 23, 2020 9:40 PM >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Bow Eye vs. Bow Cleat? >> >> I am in total agreement with Roger on the benefits of anchoring from the >> bow >> eye rather than the bow cleat. >> >> My approach to doing so is a little different. I have 10' of 3/8" line >> with >> a thimble in one end permanently attached to the bow eye with a shackle. I >> refer to this line as my 'painter'. When I'm not anchored, the painter is >> looped over and tied off to the pulpit. After I've anchored, I attach the >> painter to the rode, and let out more scope so that the painter takes the >> load. >> >> In addition to effectively increasing your scope, this approach eliminates >> any chafing that might occur where the rode comes over the toe-rail. >> >> I originally tried this approach because someone way back in the archives >> suggested that it would reduce the tendency of R22 to swing on its anchor. >> Unfortunately I did not find this to be true to any significant extent. >> >> Peter Nyberg >> Coventry, CT >> s/v Silverheels (1988/2016) >> >> >>> On Apr 23, 2020, at 5:51 PM, ROGER PIHLAJA >> wrote: >>> >>> Hi All, >>> >>> There is a real advantage to rigging the anchor line thru the bow eye vs. >> directly to the bow cleat. The choice of the bow eye vs. the bow cleat has >> a significant effect on the anchor scope. This is because the bow eye is >> ~1.5 ft closer to the water vs the bow cleat. For example, suppose we are >> anchoring in 7 feet of water. The bow eye is ~2 feet above the water and >> the bow cleat is ~3.5 feet above the water. Suppose we let out 65 feet of >> anchor rode. The scope using the bow eye is 65 / (7 + 2) = 7.2 The scope >> using the bow cleat is 65 / (7 + 3.5) = 6.2 A scope of 7.2 is sufficient >> for decent overnight holding with a minimum 65 foot radius swing circle. A >> scope of 6.2 is marginal for an overnight night stay. Sometimes, there >> isn't sufficient swing room to let out more anchor rode, say if you are the >> last boat to drop the hook in a crowded anchorage. In addition, it's >> considered bad anchoring etiquette to use up all the swing room in an >> anchorage even if you are the first one there. >>> >>> Fortunately, you don't have to tie off to the bow eye in order to get the >> scope advantage of using it. Simply run the anchor rode thru the bow eye >> first, then up to the bow cleat, and cleat it off. This will give you all >> the scope advantage of using the bow eye and all the ease of tying off to >> the bow cleat. When departing, reach down and hook the anchor rode with a >> boat hook below the bow eye. Pull the anchor rode on board, hang on to it, >> and then uncleat the rode from the bow cleat. Easy peasy and no stress on >> the knees! >>> >>> I always use the bow eye in the manner described above. There is just no >> reason not to, the extra safety margin on scope helps me sleep better, and >> I >> don't annoy my fellow boaters. >>> >>> Roger Pihlaja >>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium >>> >> >> >> From peter at sunnybeeches.com Sat Apr 25 09:27:07 2020 From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg) Date: Sat, 25 Apr 2020 09:27:07 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Bow Eye vs. Bow Cleat? In-Reply-To: <1587764182183-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <026501d61975$3f6e9c90$be4bd5b0$@ca> <88870679.204302.1587650590197@mail.yahoo.com> <99A9469B-267D-4C7D-9F26-3B78CEF06431@sunnybeeches.com> <1587764182183-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: Jeff, This seems quite clever. I?m still somewhat concerned about the possibility of chafing. My rode and dock lines are both 3 strand nylon. What is this ?soft dock line? of which you speak? ?Peter > On Apr 24, 2020, at 5:36 PM, JeffSmith wrote: > > Newbie here. I have yet to anchor an R22, but have had larger sailboats > previously. I like the idea of anchoring from the bow eye for all the > reasons given and dislike it because of having to lie down on my stomach to > thread the chain through the bow eye and up to the anchor. Radiant has bow > cleats port and starboard - not chocks and a central cleat. > > 1. Tie off one end of dock line to one cleat and run the loop end through > the bow eye and up on deck. > 2. Run the chain end through the loop of the dock line. > 3. Attach chain to anchor. > 4. Deploy anchor and let out appropriate length of rhode and back down on > anchor. > 5. Snub dock line and anchor rhode up to the bow eye and tie the dock line > off on the opposite cleat as the rhode. > > The advantages are that the soft dock line does not chafe the anchor rhode > and to let out more scope just ease the dock line and re-snub after letting > out rhode. Also lie on belly only on initial set up of dock line which can > be left attached and easily used as a regular dock line. > > > > > ----- > Jeff Smith > 2009 R22 #101 RADIANT > Atlantic Highlands Municpal Harbor > Atlantic Highlands, NJ > > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com Sun Apr 26 08:25:21 2020 From: jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com (JeffSmith) Date: Sun, 26 Apr 2020 05:25:21 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Bow Eye vs. Bow Cleat? In-Reply-To: References: <99A9469B-267D-4C7D-9F26-3B78CEF06431@sunnybeeches.com> <1587764182183-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <1587903921693-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Hi Peter, Defender had a special on these docklines in 25' for about $8.00 ea. so I bought 4. I don't know if there will be less chafe than with 3 strand, but I can hope... I just finished mounting a Fortress FX-16 (10 lbs) to the bow pulpit. Kind of over kill, but it is what I have. After thinking about launching the anchor from the cockpit I figured I would try the bow set-up instead Time will tell which system I choose. I have just started watching your "s/v Silverheels" videos and am very impressed. Nice work! ----- Jeff Smith 2009 R22 #101 RADIANT Atlantic Highlands Municpal Harbor Atlantic Highlands, NJ -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From daysails at aol.com Sun Apr 26 09:37:05 2020 From: daysails at aol.com (daysails at aol.com) Date: Sun, 26 Apr 2020 13:37:05 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Bow Eye vs. Bow Cleat? In-Reply-To: <1587903921693-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <99A9469B-267D-4C7D-9F26-3B78CEF06431@sunnybeeches.com> <1587764182183-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1587903921693-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <1281591301.299250.1587908225187@mail.yahoo.com> I have enjoyed and learned from this discussion.? I have always used the cleat but will try out some of these suggestions for the bow eye.? I came across the Danick anchoring hook that might have some relevance to solving an easy way to attach the rode to the bow eye while still allowing the rode to be easily let out.? I have not tried it.? here is a utube video of it?https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mDYIPJcs5-c Joe Riley Second Wind Athens GA From jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com Mon Apr 27 08:21:04 2020 From: jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com (JeffSmith) Date: Mon, 27 Apr 2020 05:21:04 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Bow Eye vs. Bow Cleat? In-Reply-To: References: <99A9469B-267D-4C7D-9F26-3B78CEF06431@sunnybeeches.com> <1587764182183-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <1587990064142-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Hi again Peter, In one of your videos you showed a fabric anchor chain cover. Does that serve to keep the chain clean in mud as well as protect the deck? ----- Jeff Smith 2009 R22 #101 RADIANT Atlantic Highlands Municpal Harbor Atlantic Highlands, NJ -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From peter at sunnybeeches.com Mon Apr 27 11:04:29 2020 From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg) Date: Mon, 27 Apr 2020 11:04:29 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Fabric Anchor Rode Chain Cover In-Reply-To: <1587990064142-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <99A9469B-267D-4C7D-9F26-3B78CEF06431@sunnybeeches.com> <1587764182183-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1587990064142-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: Jeff, The fabric cover for the anchor chain is 2? tubular webbing. For tubular webbing the dimension refers to the width of the tube laid flat. Formed into round tube, the webbing would have an outside circumference of 4?, so a diameter of about 1.27?. The primary purpose of the webbing is to protect the deck from the chain. Since I have the bow sprit and anchor roller, I usually deploy and retrieve the anchor while standing in the cockpit, and leave the rode attached to the anchor more or less permanently. You may have noticed in the video that the webbing is bright, clean, and shiny. That?s because it hasn?t actually been used yet. It is a completely untested concept. I has occurred to me that the cover may also pick up less mud that the uncovered chain. If true, this would be a nice bonus. But since I handle the rode from the cockpit, and there?s only 10? of chain, I generally don?t need to touch the chain. Peter Nyberg Coventry, CT s/v Silverheels (1988/2016) > On Apr 27, 2020, at 8:21 AM, JeffSmith wrote: > > Hi again Peter, > In one of your videos you showed a fabric anchor chain cover. Does that > serve to keep the chain clean in mud as well as protect the deck? > > > > ----- > Jeff Smith > 2009 R22 #101 RADIANT > Atlantic Highlands Municpal Harbor > Atlantic Highlands, NJ > > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com Mon Apr 27 14:13:02 2020 From: jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com (JeffSmith) Date: Mon, 27 Apr 2020 11:13:02 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Fabric Anchor Rode Chain Cover In-Reply-To: References: <99A9469B-267D-4C7D-9F26-3B78CEF06431@sunnybeeches.com> <1587764182183-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1587990064142-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <1588011182249-0.post@n5.nabble.com> I now see the full method of your madness with the anchor Rhode bags in the lazarette! Very cool. ----- Jeff Smith 2009 R22 #101 RADIANT Atlantic Highlands Municpal Harbor Atlantic Highlands, NJ -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From gmorgan.flier at gmail.com Tue Apr 28 06:08:15 2020 From: gmorgan.flier at gmail.com (Gmorganflier) Date: Tue, 28 Apr 2020 03:08:15 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Spring Lines In-Reply-To: <01EDBFD1-02A1-48F4-AF61-48FBD0B05228@gmail.com> References: <379D4DD7-E316-44A4-9FA0-121C34E32793@gmail.com> <1587582768220-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <01EDBFD1-02A1-48F4-AF61-48FBD0B05228@gmail.com> Message-ID: <1588068495132-0.post@n5.nabble.com> After I bought my boat last July, I had cleats installed midship. I had seen a video on how midship spring lines were helpful with docking. Since I was brand new to sailing and boating, I wanted anything which might make learning to sail go more smoothly. The type cleats I used and where I put them was a mistake. The sheets for the 170 Genoa get hung up on them. I?m about to replace these standard type cleats with retractable ones which hopefully will solve my problem. George S/V Knotty Lady The first photo is the existing cleats which are causing problems and the next photo is the retractable one I?m thinking of using -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From seanallen1206 at gmail.com Tue Apr 28 06:22:20 2020 From: seanallen1206 at gmail.com (Sean Allen) Date: Tue, 28 Apr 2020 06:22:20 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Spring Lines In-Reply-To: <1588068495132-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <379D4DD7-E316-44A4-9FA0-121C34E32793@gmail.com> <1587582768220-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <01EDBFD1-02A1-48F4-AF61-48FBD0B05228@gmail.com> <1588068495132-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: Thanks for your perspective on that George. I?m in the same position you were last year. Any other tips you wished you knew then, that you know now? Or anyone else with the same? Sean On Tue, Apr 28, 2020 at 6:08 AM Gmorganflier wrote: > After I bought my boat last July, I had cleats installed midship. I had > seen > a video on how midship spring lines were helpful with docking. Since I was > brand new to sailing and boating, I wanted anything which might make > learning to sail go more smoothly. > > The type cleats I used and where I put them was a mistake. The sheets for > the 170 Genoa get hung up on them. I?m about to replace these standard type > cleats with retractable ones which hopefully will solve my problem. > > George > S/V Knotty Lady > > The first photo is the existing cleats which are causing problems and the > next photo is the retractable one I?m thinking of using > > < > http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/file/t909/E0DF5FB6-1D4D-4A15-A04E-FC124148B8E4.jpeg> > > < > http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/file/t909/464F5057-FC79-4C10-925A-381AEEAB9E56.jpeg> > > > > > > > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > From leonardojve at yahoo.com Tue Apr 28 12:36:20 2020 From: leonardojve at yahoo.com (Leonardo J. Velazquez) Date: Tue, 28 Apr 2020 12:36:20 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] =?utf-8?q?Looking_for_the_GB=E2=80=99s_endless_co?= =?utf-8?q?ntrol_line=2C_cleatless_traveler_for_my_1988_Rhodes_22=2E_Thank?= =?utf-8?q?s!?= References: <055883D2-A68F-4FEC-93FA-DA9C3017E359.ref@yahoo.com> Message-ID: <055883D2-A68F-4FEC-93FA-DA9C3017E359@yahoo.com> Leonardo J. Velazquez PRIVILEGED AND CONFIDENTIAL: This document and the information contained herein are confidential and protected from disclosure pursuant to Federal law. This message is intended only for the use of the Addressee(s) and may contain information that is PRIVILEGED and CONFIDENTIAL. If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that the use, dissemination, or copying of this information is strictly prohibited. If you received this communication in error, please erase all copies of the message and its attachments and notify the sender immediately. From leonardojve at yahoo.com Tue Apr 28 12:37:19 2020 From: leonardojve at yahoo.com (=?UTF-8?Q?Leonardo_J=2E_Vel=C3=A1zquez?=) Date: Tue, 28 Apr 2020 16:37:19 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] =?utf-8?q?Looking_for_the_GB=E2=80=99s_endless_co?= =?utf-8?q?ntrol_line=2C_cleatless_traveler_for_my_1988_Rhodes_22=2E_Thank?= =?utf-8?q?s!?= References: <904839400.1635356.1588091839036.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <904839400.1635356.1588091839036@mail.yahoo.com> From jose.faraldo at gmail.com Tue Apr 28 13:53:34 2020 From: jose.faraldo at gmail.com (jose) Date: Tue, 28 Apr 2020 10:53:34 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] spreaders Message-ID: <1588096414273-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Hi all I've got another question for da list... Today I was checking out the spreaders and noticed some kind of bushing/gasket/ring-like objects wedged between the shroud plates and the mast - please see photos attached. One of them is very degraded and only a fragment remains. Does anyone know what this thing is called, what it is for, and where I can find a replacement? Thanks - and stay safe out there! Jose -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From sloopblueheron at gmail.com Tue Apr 28 15:38:03 2020 From: sloopblueheron at gmail.com (Rick Lange) Date: Tue, 28 Apr 2020 15:38:03 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] spreaders In-Reply-To: <1588096414273-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1588096414273-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: Jose, It is time to go to the hardware store and get some new nylon washers. Regards, Rick Lange On Tue, Apr 28, 2020 at 1:53 PM jose wrote: > Hi all > > I've got another question for da list... Today I was checking out the > spreaders and noticed some kind of bushing/gasket/ring-like objects wedged > between the shroud plates and the mast - please see photos attached. One of > them is very degraded and only a fragment remains. > > Does anyone know what this thing is called, what it is for, and where I can > find a replacement? > > Thanks - and stay safe out there! > > Jose > > > > > > > > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > From jose.faraldo at gmail.com Tue Apr 28 15:42:02 2020 From: jose.faraldo at gmail.com (Jose Faraldo-Gomez) Date: Tue, 28 Apr 2020 15:42:02 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] spreaders In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Thanks! > On Apr 28, 2020, at 3:38 PM, Rick Lange wrote: > > ?Jose, > > It is time to go to the hardware store and get some new nylon washers. > > Regards, > > Rick Lange > > >> On Tue, Apr 28, 2020 at 1:53 PM jose wrote: >> >> Hi all >> >> I've got another question for da list... Today I was checking out the >> spreaders and noticed some kind of bushing/gasket/ring-like objects wedged >> between the shroud plates and the mast - please see photos attached. One of >> them is very degraded and only a fragment remains. >> >> Does anyone know what this thing is called, what it is for, and where I can >> find a replacement? >> >> Thanks - and stay safe out there! >> >> Jose >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> -- >> Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ >> From mweisner at ebsmed.com Tue Apr 28 16:52:11 2020 From: mweisner at ebsmed.com (Michael D. Weisner) Date: Tue, 28 Apr 2020 16:52:11 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] spreaders In-Reply-To: References: <1588096414273-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <004d01d61d9e$e49b7580$add26080$@ebsmed.com> I think that they are more than just washers. I think that they are machined to follow the curve of the mast, providing a perpendicular attachment point for the spreaders. Your best bet is to contact Stan at General Boats. Hey Stan, are you listening? Mike s/v Wind Lass ('91) Nissequogue River, NY I?d rather be sailing :~) -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of Rick Lange Sent: Tuesday, April 28, 2020 3:38 PM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] spreaders Jose, It is time to go to the hardware store and get some new nylon washers. Regards, Rick Lange On Tue, Apr 28, 2020 at 1:53 PM jose wrote: > Hi all > > I've got another question for da list... Today I was checking out the > spreaders and noticed some kind of bushing/gasket/ring-like objects > wedged between the shroud plates and the mast - please see photos > attached. One of them is very degraded and only a fragment remains. > > Does anyone know what this thing is called, what it is for, and where > I can find a replacement? > > Thanks - and stay safe out there! > > Jose > > > > > > > > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > From stan at generalboats.com Tue Apr 28 17:10:27 2020 From: stan at generalboats.com (stan) Date: Tue, 28 Apr 2020 17:10:27 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] spreaders In-Reply-To: <004d01d61d9e$e49b7580$add26080$@ebsmed.com> References: <1588096414273-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <004d01d61d9e$e49b7580$add26080$@ebsmed.com> Message-ID: It's under control.? Jose is the expert in this matter of why two wrongs don't make a right (correct) angle. ss On 4/28/20 4:52 PM, Michael D. Weisner wrote: > I think that they are more than just washers. I think that they are machined to follow the curve of the mast, providing a perpendicular attachment point for the spreaders. > > Your best bet is to contact Stan at General Boats. Hey Stan, are you listening? > > Mike > s/v Wind Lass ('91) > Nissequogue River, NY > I?d rather be sailing :~) > > -----Original Message----- > From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of Rick Lange > Sent: Tuesday, April 28, 2020 3:38 PM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] spreaders > > Jose, > > It is time to go to the hardware store and get some new nylon washers. > > Regards, > > Rick Lange > > > On Tue, Apr 28, 2020 at 1:53 PM jose wrote: > >> Hi all >> >> I've got another question for da list... Today I was checking out the >> spreaders and noticed some kind of bushing/gasket/ring-like objects >> wedged between the shroud plates and the mast - please see photos >> attached. One of them is very degraded and only a fragment remains. >> >> Does anyone know what this thing is called, what it is for, and where >> I can find a replacement? >> >> Thanks - and stay safe out there! >> >> Jose >> From gmorgan.flier at gmail.com Tue Apr 28 19:27:24 2020 From: gmorgan.flier at gmail.com (Gmorganflier) Date: Tue, 28 Apr 2020 16:27:24 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Spring Lines In-Reply-To: References: <379D4DD7-E316-44A4-9FA0-121C34E32793@gmail.com> <1587582768220-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <01EDBFD1-02A1-48F4-AF61-48FBD0B05228@gmail.com> <1588068495132-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <1588116444071-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Sean, I wish I had more words of wisdom to pass along, but I?m a complete novice. I?ve been out only 4 times on my boat since I bought her last July, the last time being in September. Work and personal issues got in the way of sailing after that and I?m very eager to start going out again one of these days. I?ve been keeping my boat on its trailer in a boatyard in Southport NC across from the launching ramps at the Southport Marina, but the ramps are all closed with the Covid crisis. I?m going up Saturday to check out a sailing club on Lake Waccamaw NC, a 3-1/2 mi by 5-1/2 mi lake. That doesn?t sound very big, but is actually probably bigger than the Cape Fear River area near Wilmington where I now keep the boat. Might be nice to not deal with tides and currents and maneuvering out of a crowded marina while I?m trying to learn to sail. George -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From cgeisser12345 at gmail.com Thu Apr 30 01:11:44 2020 From: cgeisser12345 at gmail.com (Carl Geisser) Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2020 22:11:44 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] what is the oldest R22 In-Reply-To: <648738779.1074878.1582832935138@mail.yahoo.com> References: <648738779.1074878.1582832935138@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1588223504352-0.post@n5.nabble.com> I have a 1970 continental , the hull number is not in the GB format, not sure why. However my title says 1970 Rhodes 22, hull number NJZ322820686. Not sure what is the reason for the odd hull number. some things are different on mine i have noticed, rigging has fewer lines (6 rather than 9) no compression post (uses a beam across the cabin roof). Shorter galley, longer v-berth, no front ports ,nor hatches. not sure which features are originals, which have been changed/added over the years, but that is what I have. She is a tough old boat though, have sailed her a bunch, in lakes here in Arkansas , the gulf a bit, and one trip to Bimini. Currently fixing her up for the summer, looking for a used poptop slider if anyone has one laying about. Carl -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From keywestseccorp at verizon.net Thu Apr 30 08:54:21 2020 From: keywestseccorp at verizon.net (Mark West) Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2020 12:54:21 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] what is the oldest R22 In-Reply-To: <1588223504352-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <648738779.1074878.1582832935138@mail.yahoo.com> <1588223504352-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <1409998458.189570.1588251261556@mail.yahoo.com> Carl get with Stan for pop top slider. I thought I saw several or they can make you one. I don't know if there were any chances in them through out production years ,? ?also I worked?with a man? Carl? Geisser in Va. Beach Va.? in mid 90's? would that be you? ? 1970 is the oldest I've herd of several 76 out there on this list Best of? luck? Mark West?? -----Original Message----- From: Carl Geisser To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Sent: Thu, Apr 30, 2020 1:11 am Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] what is the oldest R22 I have a 1970 continental , the hull number is not in the GB format, not sure why. However my title says 1970 Rhodes 22, hull number NJZ322820686. Not sure what is the reason for the odd hull number. some things are different on mine i have noticed, rigging has fewer lines (6 rather than 9) no compression post (uses a beam across the cabin roof). Shorter galley, longer v-berth, no front ports ,nor hatches. not sure which features are originals, which have been changed/added over the years, but that is what I have. She is a tough old boat though, have sailed her a bunch, in lakes here in Arkansas , the gulf a bit, and one trip to Bimini. Currently fixing her up for the summer, looking for a used poptop slider if anyone has one laying about. Carl -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From stan at generalboats.com Thu Apr 30 10:56:40 2020 From: stan at generalboats.com (stan) Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2020 10:56:40 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] what is the oldest R22 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I believed I worked with Phil (Rhodes) at his Lexington NYC offices on its design for a year (1968 to 1969) then Ten Eke Associates (a Wichita industrial airplane design team, did their thing plus built the plug, because they wanted to. Then Lofland Sailcraft in Wichita turned out a few boats so 1970 sounds right. stan On 3/6/20 11:10 AM, Michael Weisner wrote: > Stan,Do you know when the earliest Rhodes (Continental) 22 was produced? Is it company confidential?Mikes/v Wind Lass '91Nissequogue River, NY From gstewart8 at cogeco.ca Thu Apr 30 15:25:54 2020 From: gstewart8 at cogeco.ca (Graham Stewart) Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2020 15:25:54 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] what is the oldest R22 In-Reply-To: <1588223504352-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <648738779.1074878.1582832935138@mail.yahoo.com> <1588223504352-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <001901d61f25$2d6dcd30$88496790$@ca> That boat belongs in a museum. Graham -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Carl Geisser Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2020 1:12 AM To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] what is the oldest R22 I have a 1970 continental , the hull number is not in the GB format, not sure why. However my title says 1970 Rhodes 22, hull number NJZ322820686. Not sure what is the reason for the odd hull number. some things are different on mine i have noticed, rigging has fewer lines (6 rather than 9) no compression post (uses a beam across the cabin roof). Shorter galley, longer v-berth, no front ports ,nor hatches. not sure which features are originals, which have been changed/added over the years, but that is what I have. She is a tough old boat though, have sailed her a bunch, in lakes here in Arkansas , the gulf a bit, and one trip to Bimini. Currently fixing her up for the summer, looking for a used poptop slider if anyone has one laying about. Carl -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/