From gramille at tds.net Sat Aug 1 10:43:21 2020 From: gramille at tds.net (gramille) Date: Sat, 1 Aug 2020 07:43:21 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] mainsail problems In-Reply-To: <61972.24.140.30.102.1596253392.squirrel@quickpop.sssnet.com> References: <1595770984728-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <40313db9-aff4-7af3-92e7-819127320534@generalboats.com> <1595907004252-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <77ffb524-95b1-04a6-b4dc-e25ca5b731ba@generalboats.com> <1596226351689-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <6E25F479-C21C-43C7-BBFB-6C91B21EDD30@sunnybeeches.com> <61972.24.140.30.102.1596253392.squirrel@quickpop.sssnet.com> Message-ID: <1596293001702-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Interesting - any other opinions? G -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From cknell at vt.edu Sun Aug 2 19:39:30 2020 From: cknell at vt.edu (Chris on LBI) Date: Sun, 2 Aug 2020 16:39:30 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Reconnecting the Tabernacle Screws Following Sacrificial Failure Message-ID: <1596411570037-0.post@n5.nabble.com> This topic is a continuation of a different topic titled ?"Repair of Spider Cracks at Mast Step Tabernacle?. The subject matter of that topic quickly strayed from gelcoat repair to how to replace the tabernacle screws after they pull loose. I thought it would be good to highlight this subject matter with a new topic heading. I thank Graham Stewart, Rodger Pihlaja, Mike Riter, and Rick Lange all of whom weighed in on the original thread. Last week while lowering the mast, the three screws holding the tabernacle to the block above the cabin let loose when the mast was at an angle of about 45 degrees. A shroud had fouled and the resulting (unintended) forces pulled the screws out. In reading on this list/forum, I was relieved to learn that these screw connections were designed to fail to avoid more expensive damage to the plate and the cabin top. It also seems that the repair is very easy to accomplish. However, in asking advice regarding the repair and in doing some research, I'm undecided as to how the repair should be performed since I have conflicting information. I've started this new thread to focus specifically on reconnecting these three screws to the block below the tabernacle plate so that the sacrificial nature of the junction is preserved. The three screws on my boat are 3/16? stainless steel, 1? long, with 10 threads per inch. The mounting block below the tabernacle appears to be wood covered with fiberglass and gelcoat. The combination fiberglass and gelcoat appear to be about 1/4? thick. The stainless steel base of the tabernacle is 1/8? thick. The holes in the fiberglass are larger than the major diameter of the screws. Based on this information I estimate that about 5/8? of the screws were threaded into the wood block. I read somewhere on this list/forum that the block is typically pine. Using an online tool (https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/wood-screws-allowable-withdrawal-load-d_1815.html ) that calculates pullout force, I estimate that each of the three screws would pull out at about 70 pounds of upward force; 210 pounds total. I had planned to make the repair by filling the holes with epoxy and then drilling holes in the epoxy to receive the screws. Since there was some soft wood around the perimeter of the holes, I scraped it out as best I could, and noted that the new epoxy ?plug? would be larger in diameter than the holes in the fiberglass. That is, some of the epoxy plug would be underneath of the fiberglass. This led me to wonder at what force the plug would release from the surrounding wood because if it did release, it would transfer the load to the fiberglass above the plug. Apparently the way to estimate this force is to take the vertical surface area of the wood/epoxy plug and multiply it by the shear factor of a wood/epoxy joint (obviously an estimate). A few sources online use 800 psi as this shear factor. So using a 5/8? deep hole with a diameter of 5/16?, I get a pullout force of about 500 pounds per plug; 1500 pounds total. I assume that the pullout force of a screw from an epoxy plug is greater than 500 pounds but I can't find a way to estimate this. Although, if it were a steel pin (without threads), the shear factor would be estimated at 1600 psi. So with the threads the shear factor would be much great than this and thus the screw withdrawal force would be much greater than the plug withdrawal force. That is, the plug will pull out well before the screw pulls out of the plug. Unless of course it is a shorter screw. But without a way to calculate it, I would not know what length screw to use to achieve the desired pullout force. While a few days ago I was all set to start mixing up a batch of epoxy, now I'm not so sure. Using these calculations based on the assumptions indicated, the planned approach would change the original design in two very significant ways. First, the total pullout force would increase from 210 pounds to 1500 pounds. Second, with the epoxy repair, in the case of failure, the load would be transferred to the underside of the fiberglass which I assume the original design is intended to protect. That is, the original design sacrifices the wood/screw connection, the screws pull out, and the fiberglass is left unharmed. So now I am left contemplating four different options: Wood Slivers, Bigger Holes, New Holes, Shorter Screws Wood Slivers The idea would be to partially fill the holes with epoxy, and then pack the holes with wood slivers that would intentionally weaken the epoxy with the hope that the epoxy/screw junction fails before the wood/epoxy junction of the plug. That is, the screws would pull out without damage to the fiberglass. Obviously this pullout force can't really be calculated, but it seems like it should be less than the wood/epoxy junction of the plug, but there is some risk that the plug could pull out first and transfer the load to the fiberglass. One very important unknown to this approach is the quality of the wood/epoxy junction. If the wood surrounding the epoxy is weak, the plug may pull out of the hole before the screw pulls out of the plug. This would transfer the load to the fiberglass. So there are risks to this approach. Filling the hole with epoxy and encapsulating the slivers in epoxy should prevent water infiltration. Bigger Holes This idea is to drill larger holes in the fiberglass, so that if the epoxy plug were to pull out, it can without damaging the fiberglass. The holes would have to be sealed to prevent water infiltration, perhaps with gelcoat. The force to pull the plugs out is likely much greater than the original pullout force (1500 lbs vs. 210 lbs), but maybe this is not a bad thing; if a minor accident occurs (less than 1500 lbs), everything remains intact and I still go sailing that day. It would seem that this approach would protect the fiberglass as intended (although maybe a stainless steel rail gets bent or broken). New Holes The original holes could be filled with epoxy and abandoned. Three new holes would be drilled in the tabernacle base plate and the block, being sure to make holes in the fiberglass larger than the major diameter of the screws. This would closely replicate the original design. Care would have to be taken to prevent water infiltration. It would be interesting to get confirmation from Stan that the factory drills holds in the fiberglass that are larger than the screw diameter. Shorter Screws The holes would be filled with epoxy, drilled, and new, shorter screws threaded into the epoxy plug. The problem with this approach is that I don't have a way to calculate the pullout force of the screw from the epoxy. Since I am a novice at repairs of this sort, I again look to the list/forum for advice. I suspect that in a case like this, group-instinct trumps calculations. ----- Long Beach Island -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From mike at traildesign.com Sun Aug 2 21:20:37 2020 From: mike at traildesign.com (Mike Riter) Date: Sun, 2 Aug 2020 21:20:37 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Reconnecting the Tabernacle Screws Following Sacrificial Failure In-Reply-To: <1596411570037-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1596411570037-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: You have really, really thought this through Chris! Looking through your list of possible choices, I'm throwing my vote in the new holes category. Fill the existing holes with epoxy, including the spider web cracks, sand everything smooth and drill new holes. Assuming a good core, the new holes would represent the same forces of the original mounting. Michael Riter SV Emma B On Sun, Aug 2, 2020 at 7:39 PM Chris on LBI wrote: > This topic is a continuation of a different topic titled ?"Repair of Spider > Cracks at Mast Step Tabernacle?. The subject matter of that topic quickly > strayed from gelcoat repair to how to replace the tabernacle screws after > they pull loose. I thought it would be good to highlight this subject > matter > with a new topic heading. I thank Graham Stewart, Rodger Pihlaja, Mike > Riter, and Rick Lange all of whom weighed in on the original thread. > > Last week while lowering the mast, the three screws holding the tabernacle > to the block above the cabin let loose when the mast was at an angle of > about 45 degrees. A shroud had fouled and the resulting (unintended) forces > pulled the screws out. In reading on this list/forum, I was relieved to > learn that these screw connections were designed to fail to avoid more > expensive damage to the plate and the cabin top. It also seems that the > repair is very easy to accomplish. However, in asking advice regarding the > repair and in doing some research, I'm undecided as to how the repair > should > be performed since I have conflicting information. I've started this new > thread to focus specifically on reconnecting these three screws to the > block > below the tabernacle plate so that the sacrificial nature of the junction > is > preserved. > > The three screws on my boat are 3/16? stainless steel, 1? long, with 10 > threads per inch. The mounting block below the tabernacle appears to be > wood > covered with fiberglass and gelcoat. The combination fiberglass and gelcoat > appear to be about 1/4? thick. The stainless steel base of the tabernacle > is > 1/8? thick. The holes in the fiberglass are larger than the major diameter > of the screws. Based on this information I estimate that about 5/8? of the > screws were threaded into the wood block. I read somewhere on this > list/forum that the block is typically pine. Using an online tool > > ( > https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/wood-screws-allowable-withdrawal-load-d_1815.html > ) that calculates pullout force, I estimate that each of the three screws > would pull out at about 70 pounds of upward force; 210 pounds total. > > I had planned to make the repair by filling the holes with epoxy and then > drilling holes in the epoxy to receive the screws. Since there was some > soft > wood around the perimeter of the holes, I scraped it out as best I could, > and noted that the new epoxy ?plug? would be larger in diameter than the > holes in the fiberglass. That is, some of the epoxy plug would be > underneath of the fiberglass. This led me to wonder at what force the plug > would release from the surrounding wood because if it did release, it would > transfer the load to the fiberglass above the plug. Apparently the way to > estimate this force is to take the vertical surface area of the wood/epoxy > plug and multiply it by the shear factor of a wood/epoxy joint (obviously > an > estimate). A few sources online use 800 psi as this shear factor. So using > a > 5/8? deep hole with a diameter of 5/16?, I get a pullout force of about 500 > pounds per plug; 1500 pounds total. > > I assume that the pullout force of a screw from an epoxy plug is greater > than 500 pounds but I can't find a way to estimate this. Although, if it > were a steel pin (without threads), the shear factor would be estimated at > 1600 psi. So with the threads the shear factor would be much great than > this > and thus the screw withdrawal force would be much greater than the plug > withdrawal force. That is, the plug will pull out well before the screw > pulls out of the plug. Unless of course it is a shorter screw. But without > a > way to calculate it, I would not know what length screw to use to achieve > the desired pullout force. > > While a few days ago I was all set to start mixing up a batch of epoxy, now > I'm not so sure. Using these calculations based on the assumptions > indicated, the planned approach would change the original design in two > very > significant ways. First, the total pullout force would increase from 210 > pounds to 1500 pounds. Second, with the epoxy repair, in the case of > failure, the load would be transferred to the underside of the fiberglass > which I assume the original design is intended to protect. That is, the > original design sacrifices the wood/screw connection, the screws pull out, > and the fiberglass is left unharmed. > > So now I am left contemplating four different options: Wood Slivers, Bigger > Holes, New Holes, Shorter Screws > > Wood Slivers > The idea would be to partially fill the holes with epoxy, and then pack the > holes with wood slivers that would intentionally weaken the epoxy with the > hope that the epoxy/screw junction fails before the wood/epoxy junction of > the plug. That is, the screws would pull out without damage to the > fiberglass. Obviously this pullout force can't really be calculated, but it > seems like it should be less than the wood/epoxy junction of the plug, but > there is some risk that the plug could pull out first and transfer the load > to the fiberglass. One very important unknown to this approach is the > quality of the wood/epoxy junction. If the wood surrounding the epoxy is > weak, the plug may pull out of the hole before the screw pulls out of the > plug. This would transfer the load to the fiberglass. So there are risks to > this approach. Filling the hole with epoxy and encapsulating the slivers in > epoxy should prevent water infiltration. > > Bigger Holes > This idea is to drill larger holes in the fiberglass, so that if the epoxy > plug were to pull out, it can without damaging the fiberglass. The holes > would have to be sealed to prevent water infiltration, perhaps with > gelcoat. > The force to pull the plugs out is likely much greater than the original > pullout force (1500 lbs vs. 210 lbs), but maybe this is not a bad thing; if > a minor accident occurs (less than 1500 lbs), everything remains intact and > I still go sailing that day. It would seem that this approach would protect > the fiberglass as intended (although maybe a stainless steel rail gets bent > or broken). > > New Holes > The original holes could be filled with epoxy and abandoned. Three new > holes > would be drilled in the tabernacle base plate and the block, being sure to > make holes in the fiberglass larger than the major diameter of the screws. > This would closely replicate the original design. Care would have to be > taken to prevent water infiltration. It would be interesting to get > confirmation from Stan that the factory drills holds in the fiberglass that > are larger than the screw diameter. > > Shorter Screws > The holes would be filled with epoxy, drilled, and new, shorter screws > threaded into the epoxy plug. The problem with this approach is that I > don't > have a way to calculate the pullout force of the screw from the epoxy. > > Since I am a novice at repairs of this sort, I again look to the list/forum > for advice. I suspect that in a case like this, group-instinct trumps > calculations. > > > > ----- > Long Beach Island > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > From peter at sunnybeeches.com Sun Aug 2 21:33:29 2020 From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg) Date: Sun, 2 Aug 2020 21:33:29 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Reconnecting the Tabernacle Screws Following Sacrificial Failure In-Reply-To: <1596411570037-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1596411570037-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <80E5FDB0-B569-4C8A-831C-4A515A2BFDCD@sunnybeeches.com> In my opinion, the most import thing is to prevent water intrusion, everything else is pretty easy to repair. You seem to believe that damage to the fiberglass skin would be difficult to deal with, but I don?t believe that?s the case. Given the options you outline, I?d go with the ?bigger holes? approach. Peter Nyberg Coventry, CT s/v Silverheels (1988/2016) > On Aug 2, 2020, at 7:39 PM, Chris on LBI wrote: > > This topic is a continuation of a different topic titled ?"Repair of Spider > Cracks at Mast Step Tabernacle?. The subject matter of that topic quickly > strayed from gelcoat repair to how to replace the tabernacle screws after > they pull loose. I thought it would be good to highlight this subject matter > with a new topic heading. I thank Graham Stewart, Rodger Pihlaja, Mike > Riter, and Rick Lange all of whom weighed in on the original thread. > > Last week while lowering the mast, the three screws holding the tabernacle > to the block above the cabin let loose when the mast was at an angle of > about 45 degrees. A shroud had fouled and the resulting (unintended) forces > pulled the screws out. In reading on this list/forum, I was relieved to > learn that these screw connections were designed to fail to avoid more > expensive damage to the plate and the cabin top. It also seems that the > repair is very easy to accomplish. However, in asking advice regarding the > repair and in doing some research, I'm undecided as to how the repair should > be performed since I have conflicting information. I've started this new > thread to focus specifically on reconnecting these three screws to the block > below the tabernacle plate so that the sacrificial nature of the junction is > preserved. > > The three screws on my boat are 3/16? stainless steel, 1? long, with 10 > threads per inch. The mounting block below the tabernacle appears to be wood > covered with fiberglass and gelcoat. The combination fiberglass and gelcoat > appear to be about 1/4? thick. The stainless steel base of the tabernacle is > 1/8? thick. The holes in the fiberglass are larger than the major diameter > of the screws. Based on this information I estimate that about 5/8? of the > screws were threaded into the wood block. I read somewhere on this > list/forum that the block is typically pine. Using an online tool > > (https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/wood-screws-allowable-withdrawal-load-d_1815.html > ) that calculates pullout force, I estimate that each of the three screws > would pull out at about 70 pounds of upward force; 210 pounds total. > > I had planned to make the repair by filling the holes with epoxy and then > drilling holes in the epoxy to receive the screws. Since there was some soft > wood around the perimeter of the holes, I scraped it out as best I could, > and noted that the new epoxy ?plug? would be larger in diameter than the > holes in the fiberglass. That is, some of the epoxy plug would be > underneath of the fiberglass. This led me to wonder at what force the plug > would release from the surrounding wood because if it did release, it would > transfer the load to the fiberglass above the plug. Apparently the way to > estimate this force is to take the vertical surface area of the wood/epoxy > plug and multiply it by the shear factor of a wood/epoxy joint (obviously an > estimate). A few sources online use 800 psi as this shear factor. So using a > 5/8? deep hole with a diameter of 5/16?, I get a pullout force of about 500 > pounds per plug; 1500 pounds total. > > I assume that the pullout force of a screw from an epoxy plug is greater > than 500 pounds but I can't find a way to estimate this. Although, if it > were a steel pin (without threads), the shear factor would be estimated at > 1600 psi. So with the threads the shear factor would be much great than this > and thus the screw withdrawal force would be much greater than the plug > withdrawal force. That is, the plug will pull out well before the screw > pulls out of the plug. Unless of course it is a shorter screw. But without a > way to calculate it, I would not know what length screw to use to achieve > the desired pullout force. > > While a few days ago I was all set to start mixing up a batch of epoxy, now > I'm not so sure. Using these calculations based on the assumptions > indicated, the planned approach would change the original design in two very > significant ways. First, the total pullout force would increase from 210 > pounds to 1500 pounds. Second, with the epoxy repair, in the case of > failure, the load would be transferred to the underside of the fiberglass > which I assume the original design is intended to protect. That is, the > original design sacrifices the wood/screw connection, the screws pull out, > and the fiberglass is left unharmed. > > So now I am left contemplating four different options: Wood Slivers, Bigger > Holes, New Holes, Shorter Screws > > Wood Slivers > The idea would be to partially fill the holes with epoxy, and then pack the > holes with wood slivers that would intentionally weaken the epoxy with the > hope that the epoxy/screw junction fails before the wood/epoxy junction of > the plug. That is, the screws would pull out without damage to the > fiberglass. Obviously this pullout force can't really be calculated, but it > seems like it should be less than the wood/epoxy junction of the plug, but > there is some risk that the plug could pull out first and transfer the load > to the fiberglass. One very important unknown to this approach is the > quality of the wood/epoxy junction. If the wood surrounding the epoxy is > weak, the plug may pull out of the hole before the screw pulls out of the > plug. This would transfer the load to the fiberglass. So there are risks to > this approach. Filling the hole with epoxy and encapsulating the slivers in > epoxy should prevent water infiltration. > > Bigger Holes > This idea is to drill larger holes in the fiberglass, so that if the epoxy > plug were to pull out, it can without damaging the fiberglass. The holes > would have to be sealed to prevent water infiltration, perhaps with gelcoat. > The force to pull the plugs out is likely much greater than the original > pullout force (1500 lbs vs. 210 lbs), but maybe this is not a bad thing; if > a minor accident occurs (less than 1500 lbs), everything remains intact and > I still go sailing that day. It would seem that this approach would protect > the fiberglass as intended (although maybe a stainless steel rail gets bent > or broken). > > New Holes > The original holes could be filled with epoxy and abandoned. Three new holes > would be drilled in the tabernacle base plate and the block, being sure to > make holes in the fiberglass larger than the major diameter of the screws. > This would closely replicate the original design. Care would have to be > taken to prevent water infiltration. It would be interesting to get > confirmation from Stan that the factory drills holds in the fiberglass that > are larger than the screw diameter. > > Shorter Screws > The holes would be filled with epoxy, drilled, and new, shorter screws > threaded into the epoxy plug. The problem with this approach is that I don't > have a way to calculate the pullout force of the screw from the epoxy. > > Since I am a novice at repairs of this sort, I again look to the list/forum > for advice. I suspect that in a case like this, group-instinct trumps > calculations. > > > > ----- > Long Beach Island > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From mweisner at ebsmed.com Sun Aug 2 21:52:22 2020 From: mweisner at ebsmed.com (Michael D. Weisner) Date: Sun, 02 Aug 2020 21:52:22 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Reconnecting the Tabernacle Screws Following Sacrificial Failure In-Reply-To: <1596411570037-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: Chris,I understand your issue of pulling out the entire epoxy plug and damaging the fiberglass over the epoxy that has flowed outside of the original hole where you removed damaged wood.Can you make a wood plug that is the diameter of the hole, made of the same wood used in the tabernacle structure, preserving the correct grain? If you can, why not set this wood plug into the epoxy and set the screw into the wood plug? You will have replicated the original structure and release properties for the screw. You shouldn't need to worry about the epoxy pulling out if the screw releases first.? ?Mike? ?s/v Wind Lass ('91)? ?Nissequogue, NY -------- Original message --------From: Chris on LBI Date: 8/2/20 7:39 PM (GMT-05:00) To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Reconnecting the Tabernacle Screws Following Sacrificial Failure This topic is a continuation of a different topic titled ?"Repair of SpiderCracks at Mast Step Tabernacle?. The subject matter of that topic quicklystrayed from gelcoat repair to how to replace the tabernacle screws afterthey pull loose. I thought it would be good to highlight this subject matterwith a new topic heading. I thank Graham Stewart, Rodger Pihlaja, MikeRiter, and Rick Lange all of whom weighed in on the original thread.Last week while lowering the mast, the three screws holding the tabernacleto the block above the cabin let loose when the mast was at an angle ofabout 45 degrees. A shroud had fouled and the resulting (unintended) forcespulled the screws out. In reading on this list/forum, I was relieved tolearn that these screw connections were designed to fail to avoid moreexpensive damage to the plate and the cabin top. It also seems that therepair is very easy to accomplish. However, in asking advice regarding therepair and in doing some research, I'm undecided as to how the repair shouldbe performed since I have conflicting information. I've started this newthread to focus specifically on reconnecting these three screws to the blockbelow the tabernacle plate so that the sacrificial nature of the junction ispreserved.The three screws on my boat are 3/16? stainless steel, 1? long, with 10threads per inch. The mounting block below the tabernacle appears to be woodcovered with fiberglass and gelcoat. The combination fiberglass and gelcoatappear to be about 1/4? thick. The stainless steel base of the tabernacle is1/8? thick. The holes in the fiberglass are larger than the major diameterof the screws.? Based on this information I estimate that about 5/8? of thescrews were threaded into the wood block. I read somewhere on thislist/forum that the block is typically pine. Using an online tool (https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/wood-screws-allowable-withdrawal-load-d_1815.html) that calculates pullout force, I estimate that each of the three screwswould pull out at about 70 pounds of upward force; 210 pounds total.I had planned to make the repair by filling the holes with epoxy and thendrilling holes in the epoxy to receive the screws. Since there was some softwood around the perimeter of the holes, I scraped it out as best I could,and noted that the new epoxy ?plug? would be larger in diameter than theholes in the fiberglass.? That is, some of the epoxy plug would beunderneath of the fiberglass. This led me to wonder at what force the plugwould release from the surrounding wood because if it did release, it wouldtransfer the load to the fiberglass above the plug. Apparently the way toestimate this force is to take the vertical surface area of the wood/epoxyplug and multiply it by the shear factor of a wood/epoxy joint (obviously anestimate). A few sources online use 800 psi as this shear factor. So using a5/8? deep hole with a diameter of 5/16?, I get a pullout force of about 500pounds per plug; 1500 pounds total. I assume that the pullout force of a screw from an epoxy plug is greaterthan 500 pounds but I can't find a way to estimate this. Although, if itwere a steel pin (without threads), the shear factor would be estimated at1600 psi. So with the threads the shear factor would be much great than thisand thus the screw withdrawal force would be much greater than the plugwithdrawal force. That is, the plug will pull out well before the screwpulls out of the plug. Unless of course it is a shorter screw. But without away to calculate it, I would not know what length screw to use to achievethe desired pullout force.While a few days ago I was all set to start mixing up a batch of epoxy, nowI'm not so sure. Using these calculations based on the assumptionsindicated, the planned approach would change the original design in two verysignificant ways. First, the total pullout force would increase from 210pounds to 1500 pounds. Second, with the epoxy repair, in the case offailure, the load would be transferred to the underside of the fiberglasswhich I assume the original design is intended to protect. That is, theoriginal design sacrifices the wood/screw connection, the screws pull out,and the fiberglass is left unharmed.So now I am left contemplating four different options: Wood Slivers, BiggerHoles, New Holes, Shorter ScrewsWood SliversThe idea would be to partially fill the holes with epoxy, and then pack theholes with wood slivers that would intentionally weaken the epoxy with thehope that the epoxy/screw junction fails before the wood/epoxy junction ofthe plug. That is, the screws would pull out without damage to thefiberglass. Obviously this pullout force can't really be calculated, but itseems like it should be less than the wood/epoxy junction of the plug, butthere is some risk that the plug could pull out first and transfer the loadto the fiberglass.? One very important unknown to this approach is thequality of the wood/epoxy junction. If the wood surrounding the epoxy isweak, the plug may pull out of the hole before the screw pulls out of theplug. This would transfer the load to the fiberglass. So there are risks tothis approach. Filling the hole with epoxy and encapsulating the slivers inepoxy should prevent water infiltration.Bigger HolesThis idea is to drill larger holes in the fiberglass, so that if the epoxyplug were to pull out, it can without damaging the fiberglass. The holeswould have to be sealed to prevent water infiltration, perhaps with gelcoat.The force to pull the plugs out is likely much greater than the originalpullout force (1500 lbs vs. 210 lbs), but maybe this is not a bad thing; ifa minor accident occurs (less than 1500 lbs), everything remains intact andI still go sailing that day. It would seem that this approach would protectthe fiberglass as intended (although maybe a stainless steel rail gets bentor broken).New HolesThe original holes could be filled with epoxy and abandoned. Three new holeswould be drilled in the tabernacle base plate and the block, being sure tomake holes in the fiberglass larger than the major diameter of the screws.This would closely replicate the original design. Care would have to betaken to prevent water infiltration. It would be interesting to getconfirmation from Stan that the factory drills holds in the fiberglass thatare larger than the screw diameter.Shorter ScrewsThe holes would be filled with epoxy, drilled, and new, shorter screwsthreaded into the epoxy plug. The problem with this approach is that I don'thave a way to calculate the pullout force of the screw from the epoxy. Since I am a novice at repairs of this sort, I again look to the list/forumfor advice. I suspect that in a case like this, group-instinct trumpscalculations.-----Long Beach Island--Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From gmorgan.flier at gmail.com Sun Aug 2 21:55:30 2020 From: gmorgan.flier at gmail.com (Gmorganflier) Date: Sun, 2 Aug 2020 18:55:30 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Rudder Bolt Hole Enlarged Message-ID: <1596419730473-0.post@n5.nabble.com> I took my rudder and rudder cheeks off today in preparation to paint them. The hole in the rudder where the pivot bolt goes through is quite enlarged....probably twice the diameter of the bolt. I noticed the plywood core where the hole goes through was wet. I feared maybe my entire rudder was waterlogged, but after turning the rudder upside down and leaving it in the sun, the hole appears to be drying up. There are no cracks or damaged areas which would allow water intrusion. The bolt hole seems to be the only way water is getting in and we did have rain yesterday. My question to those who are so much more experienced than me in boating repairs....what should I do to stop water from getting in the rudder through this bolt hole. Maybe enlarge the hole even more and epoxy some sort of bushing for the bolt to go through? I?m open for suggestions. Thanks, George Morgan 1986 R22 S/V Knotty Lady -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From gstewart8 at cogeco.ca Sun Aug 2 22:06:49 2020 From: gstewart8 at cogeco.ca (Graham Stewart) Date: Sun, 2 Aug 2020 22:06:49 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Reconnecting the Tabernacle Screws Following Sacrificial Failure In-Reply-To: <1596411570037-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1596411570037-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <034901d6693a$c1adf0b0$4509d210$@ca> Your calculations are impressive but in the end you probably need to go with what you are most comfortable. The discussion has been interesting to me and I now think I would do it differently than I did last time when I drilled out the hole, filled with epoxy and then drilled new holes. Option 1 to use slivers and epoxy and option 2 to drill larger holes are not mutually exclusive as I understand them and I think that combination is what I would go with. In that case I would want to maximize the proportion of wood slivers to epoxy. The epoxy would be only sufficient to seal the core and hold the slivers together. Not having the fiberglass overhanging the hole would likely reduce the damage to the skin should the plug pull out. The weakest link, I would think, would be the interface between the plug and the core material. Unless the core is damaged and the epoxy seeps into crevices I would think that the force required to pull the plug out would not be much greater than the force required to pull a screw out of solid wood under fiberglass. That is what I think but I could easily be entirely wrong. In this case you want a properly sealed but relatively weak bond. Using the slivers tightly packed strikes me as the best way to achieve this balance. I don't know how you could abandon the old holes and drill new ones without moving the base. I would not do that. When I rebuilt my deck I removed the mast foot, repaired and then painted the step along with the entire deck. I did not make careful note of exactly where the plate was attached thinking that is was centered on the step. Nope, it has to placed exactly in the right place or you will not be able to attach the slider for the pop top to raise and descend properly. I ended up doing this install three times before I got it right. Each time I had to raise and then lower the mast. After spending 7 years restoring the boat you can imagine how frustrating that was to be stopped at the moment that I would be able to raise the sails and go. The screws you have are, as I recall, much shorter than mine but if these are what Stan used I would stick with them. Good luck, Graham Stewart gstewart8 at cogeco.ca -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Chris on LBI Sent: Sunday, August 2, 2020 7:40 PM To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Reconnecting the Tabernacle Screws Following Sacrificial Failure This topic is a continuation of a different topic titled ?"Repair of Spider Cracks at Mast Step Tabernacle?. The subject matter of that topic quickly strayed from gelcoat repair to how to replace the tabernacle screws after they pull loose. I thought it would be good to highlight this subject matter with a new topic heading. I thank Graham Stewart, Rodger Pihlaja, Mike Riter, and Rick Lange all of whom weighed in on the original thread. Last week while lowering the mast, the three screws holding the tabernacle to the block above the cabin let loose when the mast was at an angle of about 45 degrees. A shroud had fouled and the resulting (unintended) forces pulled the screws out. In reading on this list/forum, I was relieved to learn that these screw connections were designed to fail to avoid more expensive damage to the plate and the cabin top. It also seems that the repair is very easy to accomplish. However, in asking advice regarding the repair and in doing some research, I'm undecided as to how the repair should be performed since I have conflicting information. I've started this new thread to focus specifically on reconnecting these three screws to the block below the tabernacle plate so that the sacrificial nature of the junction is preserved. The three screws on my boat are 3/16? stainless steel, 1? long, with 10 threads per inch. The mounting block below the tabernacle appears to be wood covered with fiberglass and gelcoat. The combination fiberglass and gelcoat appear to be about 1/4? thick. The stainless steel base of the tabernacle is 1/8? thick. The holes in the fiberglass are larger than the major diameter of the screws. Based on this information I estimate that about 5/8? of the screws were threaded into the wood block. I read somewhere on this list/forum that the block is typically pine. Using an online tool (https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/wood-screws-allowable-withdrawal-load-d_1815.html ) that calculates pullout force, I estimate that each of the three screws would pull out at about 70 pounds of upward force; 210 pounds total. I had planned to make the repair by filling the holes with epoxy and then drilling holes in the epoxy to receive the screws. Since there was some soft wood around the perimeter of the holes, I scraped it out as best I could, and noted that the new epoxy ?plug? would be larger in diameter than the holes in the fiberglass. That is, some of the epoxy plug would be underneath of the fiberglass. This led me to wonder at what force the plug would release from the surrounding wood because if it did release, it would transfer the load to the fiberglass above the plug. Apparently the way to estimate this force is to take the vertical surface area of the wood/epoxy plug and multiply it by the shear factor of a wood/epoxy joint (obviously an estimate). A few sources online use 800 psi as this shear factor. So using a 5/8? deep hole with a diameter of 5/16?, I get a pullout force of about 500 pounds per plug; 1500 pounds total. I assume that the pullout force of a screw from an epoxy plug is greater than 500 pounds but I can't find a way to estimate this. Although, if it were a steel pin (without threads), the shear factor would be estimated at 1600 psi. So with the threads the shear factor would be much great than this and thus the screw withdrawal force would be much greater than the plug withdrawal force. That is, the plug will pull out well before the screw pulls out of the plug. Unless of course it is a shorter screw. But without a way to calculate it, I would not know what length screw to use to achieve the desired pullout force. While a few days ago I was all set to start mixing up a batch of epoxy, now I'm not so sure. Using these calculations based on the assumptions indicated, the planned approach would change the original design in two very significant ways. First, the total pullout force would increase from 210 pounds to 1500 pounds. Second, with the epoxy repair, in the case of failure, the load would be transferred to the underside of the fiberglass which I assume the original design is intended to protect. That is, the original design sacrifices the wood/screw connection, the screws pull out, and the fiberglass is left unharmed. So now I am left contemplating four different options: Wood Slivers, Bigger Holes, New Holes, Shorter Screws Wood Slivers The idea would be to partially fill the holes with epoxy, and then pack the holes with wood slivers that would intentionally weaken the epoxy with the hope that the epoxy/screw junction fails before the wood/epoxy junction of the plug. That is, the screws would pull out without damage to the fiberglass. Obviously this pullout force can't really be calculated, but it seems like it should be less than the wood/epoxy junction of the plug, but there is some risk that the plug could pull out first and transfer the load to the fiberglass. One very important unknown to this approach is the quality of the wood/epoxy junction. If the wood surrounding the epoxy is weak, the plug may pull out of the hole before the screw pulls out of the plug. This would transfer the load to the fiberglass. So there are risks to this approach. Filling the hole with epoxy and encapsulating the slivers in epoxy should prevent water infiltration. Bigger Holes This idea is to drill larger holes in the fiberglass, so that if the epoxy plug were to pull out, it can without damaging the fiberglass. The holes would have to be sealed to prevent water infiltration, perhaps with gelcoat. The force to pull the plugs out is likely much greater than the original pullout force (1500 lbs vs. 210 lbs), but maybe this is not a bad thing; if a minor accident occurs (less than 1500 lbs), everything remains intact and I still go sailing that day. It would seem that this approach would protect the fiberglass as intended (although maybe a stainless steel rail gets bent or broken). New Holes The original holes could be filled with epoxy and abandoned. Three new holes would be drilled in the tabernacle base plate and the block, being sure to make holes in the fiberglass larger than the major diameter of the screws. This would closely replicate the original design. Care would have to be taken to prevent water infiltration. It would be interesting to get confirmation from Stan that the factory drills holds in the fiberglass that are larger than the screw diameter. Shorter Screws The holes would be filled with epoxy, drilled, and new, shorter screws threaded into the epoxy plug. The problem with this approach is that I don't have a way to calculate the pullout force of the screw from the epoxy. Since I am a novice at repairs of this sort, I again look to the list/forum for advice. I suspect that in a case like this, group-instinct trumps calculations. ----- Long Beach Island -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From gstewart8 at cogeco.ca Sun Aug 2 22:27:40 2020 From: gstewart8 at cogeco.ca (Graham Stewart) Date: Sun, 2 Aug 2020 22:27:40 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Rudder Bolt Hole Enlarged In-Reply-To: <1596419730473-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1596419730473-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <034f01d6693d$ac08fcc0$041af640$@ca> George: Might you epoxy in a tube, preferably stainless steel but aluminum might do, that has an opening that is the proper diameter. Graham Stewart Agile, Rodes 22, 1976 Kingston Ontario -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Gmorganflier Sent: Sunday, August 2, 2020 9:56 PM To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Rudder Bolt Hole Enlarged I took my rudder and rudder cheeks off today in preparation to paint them. The hole in the rudder where the pivot bolt goes through is quite enlarged....probably twice the diameter of the bolt. I noticed the plywood core where the hole goes through was wet. I feared maybe my entire rudder was waterlogged, but after turning the rudder upside down and leaving it in the sun, the hole appears to be drying up. There are no cracks or damaged areas which would allow water intrusion. The bolt hole seems to be the only way water is getting in and we did have rain yesterday. My question to those who are so much more experienced than me in boating repairs....what should I do to stop water from getting in the rudder through this bolt hole. Maybe enlarge the hole even more and epoxy some sort of bushing for the bolt to go through? I?m open for suggestions. Thanks, George Morgan 1986 R22 S/V Knotty Lady -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From cknell at vt.edu Mon Aug 3 07:31:55 2020 From: cknell at vt.edu (Chris on LBI) Date: Mon, 3 Aug 2020 04:31:55 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Reconnecting the Tabernacle Screws Following Sacrificial Failure In-Reply-To: <034901d6693a$c1adf0b0$4509d210$@ca> References: <1596411570037-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <034901d6693a$c1adf0b0$4509d210$@ca> Message-ID: <1596454315934-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Graham, In thinking about drilling new holes, I was thinking that I would also drill new holes in the tabernacle base plate so the location of the base plate would not move. But your point about hole location raises an interesting additional problem for me that I had not considered. Each of the three existing holes in the mounting block below the base plate is now oblong, sort of like two holes slightly offset from one another in both the x and y axis. So I'll have to decide which of the two possible centers is the one I should use when remounting the tabernacle base plate. That is an interesting observation that Wood Slivers and Larger Holes are not mutually exclusive. I feel your pain relocating the base plate 3 times. When you did so, how did you repair the holes that were not located correctly? Also, do your screws bite into the fiberglass as well as the wood block underneath? Thanks, Chris ----- Long Beach Island -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From roger_pihlaja at msn.com Mon Aug 3 08:26:29 2020 From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA) Date: Mon, 3 Aug 2020 12:26:29 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Reconnecting the Tabernacle Screws Following Sacrificial Failure In-Reply-To: <034901d6693a$c1adf0b0$4509d210$@ca> References: <1596411570037-0.post@n5.nabble.com>, <034901d6693a$c1adf0b0$4509d210$@ca> Message-ID: Chris, For the most part, your calculations are reasonable and the results are in the right ballpark, with one exception. I must push back on your assumption that the 3 screws are loaded evenly and therefore the total failure load is 3X the individual failure load. When the mast stepping/unstepping goes properly, this assumption might be OK. But, the very notion of something going wrong during the mast stepping/instepping implies these 3 screws are not evenly loaded. I would hypothesize a failure mechanism wherein an uneven load causes first one screw to fail, which overloads another, and then the third to fail in a cascading sequence. A more conservative design approach would call for each screw to be capable of supporting the entire load. Roger Pihlaja S/V Dynamic Equilibrium Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Graham Stewart Sent: Sunday, August 2, 2020 10:06 PM To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Reconnecting the Tabernacle Screws Following Sacrificial Failure Your calculations are impressive but in the end you probably need to go with what you are most comfortable. The discussion has been interesting to me and I now think I would do it differently than I did last time when I drilled out the hole, filled with epoxy and then drilled new holes. Option 1 to use slivers and epoxy and option 2 to drill larger holes are not mutually exclusive as I understand them and I think that combination is what I would go with. In that case I would want to maximize the proportion of wood slivers to epoxy. The epoxy would be only sufficient to seal the core and hold the slivers together. Not having the fiberglass overhanging the hole would likely reduce the damage to the skin should the plug pull out. The weakest link, I would think, would be the interface between the plug and the core material. Unless the core is damaged and the epoxy seeps into crevices I would think that the force required to pull the plug out would not be much greater than the force required to pull a screw out of solid wood under fiberglass. That is what I think but I could easily be entirely wrong. In this case you want a properly sealed but relatively weak bond. Using the slivers tightly packed strikes me as the best way to achieve this balance. I don't know how you could abandon the old holes and drill new ones without moving the base. I would not do that. When I rebuilt my deck I removed the mast foot, repaired and then painted the step along with the entire deck. I did not make careful note of exactly where the plate was attached thinking that is was centered on the step. Nope, it has to placed exactly in the right place or you will not be able to attach the slider for the pop top to raise and descend properly. I ended up doing this install three times before I got it right. Each time I had to raise and then lower the mast. After spending 7 years restoring the boat you can imagine how frustrating that was to be stopped at the moment that I would be able to raise the sails and go. The screws you have are, as I recall, much shorter than mine but if these are what Stan used I would stick with them. Good luck, Graham Stewart gstewart8 at cogeco.ca -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Chris on LBI Sent: Sunday, August 2, 2020 7:40 PM To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Reconnecting the Tabernacle Screws Following Sacrificial Failure This topic is a continuation of a different topic titled ?"Repair of Spider Cracks at Mast Step Tabernacle?. The subject matter of that topic quickly strayed from gelcoat repair to how to replace the tabernacle screws after they pull loose. I thought it would be good to highlight this subject matter with a new topic heading. I thank Graham Stewart, Rodger Pihlaja, Mike Riter, and Rick Lange all of whom weighed in on the original thread. Last week while lowering the mast, the three screws holding the tabernacle to the block above the cabin let loose when the mast was at an angle of about 45 degrees. A shroud had fouled and the resulting (unintended) forces pulled the screws out. In reading on this list/forum, I was relieved to learn that these screw connections were designed to fail to avoid more expensive damage to the plate and the cabin top. It also seems that the repair is very easy to accomplish. However, in asking advice regarding the repair and in doing some research, I'm undecided as to how the repair should be performed since I have conflicting information. I've started this new thread to focus specifically on reconnecting these three screws to the block below the tabernacle plate so that the sacrificial nature of the junction is preserved. The three screws on my boat are 3/16? stainless steel, 1? long, with 10 threads per inch. The mounting block below the tabernacle appears to be wood covered with fiberglass and gelcoat. The combination fiberglass and gelcoat appear to be about 1/4? thick. The stainless steel base of the tabernacle is 1/8? thick. The holes in the fiberglass are larger than the major diameter of the screws. Based on this information I estimate that about 5/8? of the screws were threaded into the wood block. I read somewhere on this list/forum that the block is typically pine. Using an online tool (https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/wood-screws-allowable-withdrawal-load-d_1815.html ) that calculates pullout force, I estimate that each of the three screws would pull out at about 70 pounds of upward force; 210 pounds total. I had planned to make the repair by filling the holes with epoxy and then drilling holes in the epoxy to receive the screws. Since there was some soft wood around the perimeter of the holes, I scraped it out as best I could, and noted that the new epoxy ?plug? would be larger in diameter than the holes in the fiberglass. That is, some of the epoxy plug would be underneath of the fiberglass. This led me to wonder at what force the plug would release from the surrounding wood because if it did release, it would transfer the load to the fiberglass above the plug. Apparently the way to estimate this force is to take the vertical surface area of the wood/epoxy plug and multiply it by the shear factor of a wood/epoxy joint (obviously an estimate). A few sources online use 800 psi as this shear factor. So using a 5/8? deep hole with a diameter of 5/16?, I get a pullout force of about 500 pounds per plug; 1500 pounds total. I assume that the pullout force of a screw from an epoxy plug is greater than 500 pounds but I can't find a way to estimate this. Although, if it were a steel pin (without threads), the shear factor would be estimated at 1600 psi. So with the threads the shear factor would be much great than this and thus the screw withdrawal force would be much greater than the plug withdrawal force. That is, the plug will pull out well before the screw pulls out of the plug. Unless of course it is a shorter screw. But without a way to calculate it, I would not know what length screw to use to achieve the desired pullout force. While a few days ago I was all set to start mixing up a batch of epoxy, now I'm not so sure. Using these calculations based on the assumptions indicated, the planned approach would change the original design in two very significant ways. First, the total pullout force would increase from 210 pounds to 1500 pounds. Second, with the epoxy repair, in the case of failure, the load would be transferred to the underside of the fiberglass which I assume the original design is intended to protect. That is, the original design sacrifices the wood/screw connection, the screws pull out, and the fiberglass is left unharmed. So now I am left contemplating four different options: Wood Slivers, Bigger Holes, New Holes, Shorter Screws Wood Slivers The idea would be to partially fill the holes with epoxy, and then pack the holes with wood slivers that would intentionally weaken the epoxy with the hope that the epoxy/screw junction fails before the wood/epoxy junction of the plug. That is, the screws would pull out without damage to the fiberglass. Obviously this pullout force can't really be calculated, but it seems like it should be less than the wood/epoxy junction of the plug, but there is some risk that the plug could pull out first and transfer the load to the fiberglass. One very important unknown to this approach is the quality of the wood/epoxy junction. If the wood surrounding the epoxy is weak, the plug may pull out of the hole before the screw pulls out of the plug. This would transfer the load to the fiberglass. So there are risks to this approach. Filling the hole with epoxy and encapsulating the slivers in epoxy should prevent water infiltration. Bigger Holes This idea is to drill larger holes in the fiberglass, so that if the epoxy plug were to pull out, it can without damaging the fiberglass. The holes would have to be sealed to prevent water infiltration, perhaps with gelcoat. The force to pull the plugs out is likely much greater than the original pullout force (1500 lbs vs. 210 lbs), but maybe this is not a bad thing; if a minor accident occurs (less than 1500 lbs), everything remains intact and I still go sailing that day. It would seem that this approach would protect the fiberglass as intended (although maybe a stainless steel rail gets bent or broken). New Holes The original holes could be filled with epoxy and abandoned. Three new holes would be drilled in the tabernacle base plate and the block, being sure to make holes in the fiberglass larger than the major diameter of the screws. This would closely replicate the original design. Care would have to be taken to prevent water infiltration. It would be interesting to get confirmation from Stan that the factory drills holds in the fiberglass that are larger than the screw diameter. Shorter Screws The holes would be filled with epoxy, drilled, and new, shorter screws threaded into the epoxy plug. The problem with this approach is that I don't have a way to calculate the pullout force of the screw from the epoxy. Since I am a novice at repairs of this sort, I again look to the list/forum for advice. I suspect that in a case like this, group-instinct trumps calculations. ----- Long Beach Island -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From roger_pihlaja at msn.com Mon Aug 3 08:50:29 2020 From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA) Date: Mon, 3 Aug 2020 12:50:29 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Rudder Bolt Hole Enlarged In-Reply-To: <034f01d6693d$ac08fcc0$041af640$@ca> References: <1596419730473-0.post@n5.nabble.com>, <034f01d6693d$ac08fcc0$041af640$@ca> Message-ID: George, I would drill out the hole to 2X it?s present diameter. Then, coat the ID with unthickened epoxy to seal it. After the unthickened epoxy has kicked off; but, not fully cured, fill the hole with epoxy thickened with WEST System 406 Colloidal Silica and 423 Graphite powder mixed in a 90%wt 406, 10%wt 423 ratio. The thickener mixture should be dry blended first, not mixed separately into the epoxy. The epoxy should be loaded with the thickener such that the mixture flows like thick pancake batter. Mix the epoxy resin and thickener first, then add the thickener mixture, and blend it such that all the powder is wetted out with no lumps or bubbles. After the thickened epoxy is fully cured, drill out a hole for the bolt, and you?re good to go. The 406/423 filler mixture will provide a very hard, abrasion resistant, lubricative bearing surface for the bolt to turn on. But, you won?t have any galling or dissimilar metal corrosion issues with the stainless steel bolt. By waiting for the unthickened epoxy to kick off, but not fully cure, when you pour in the thickened epoxy, you will have a molecular and mechanical bond with the rudder substrate that will never fail. This repair will last a very long time. Roger Pihlaja S/V Dynamic Equilibrium Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Graham Stewart Sent: Sunday, August 2, 2020 10:27 PM To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Rudder Bolt Hole Enlarged George: Might you epoxy in a tube, preferably stainless steel but aluminum might do, that has an opening that is the proper diameter. Graham Stewart Agile, Rodes 22, 1976 Kingston Ontario -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Gmorganflier Sent: Sunday, August 2, 2020 9:56 PM To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Rudder Bolt Hole Enlarged I took my rudder and rudder cheeks off today in preparation to paint them. The hole in the rudder where the pivot bolt goes through is quite enlarged....probably twice the diameter of the bolt. I noticed the plywood core where the hole goes through was wet. I feared maybe my entire rudder was waterlogged, but after turning the rudder upside down and leaving it in the sun, the hole appears to be drying up. There are no cracks or damaged areas which would allow water intrusion. The bolt hole seems to be the only way water is getting in and we did have rain yesterday. My question to those who are so much more experienced than me in boating repairs....what should I do to stop water from getting in the rudder through this bolt hole. Maybe enlarge the hole even more and epoxy some sort of bushing for the bolt to go through? I?m open for suggestions. Thanks, George Morgan 1986 R22 S/V Knotty Lady -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From gmorgan.flier at gmail.com Mon Aug 3 09:15:21 2020 From: gmorgan.flier at gmail.com (Gmorganflier) Date: Mon, 3 Aug 2020 06:15:21 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Rudder Bolt Hole Enlarged In-Reply-To: References: <1596419730473-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <034f01d6693d$ac08fcc0$041af640$@ca> Message-ID: <1596460521780-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Roger and Graham, Thanks for your responses. Roger....I like your solution...I?ll plan to do as you recommended. George Morgan -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From rlowe at vt.edu Mon Aug 3 09:45:08 2020 From: rlowe at vt.edu (Lowe, Rob) Date: Mon, 3 Aug 2020 13:45:08 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] mainsail problems In-Reply-To: <247043968.7192172.1596230926478@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1595770984728-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <40313db9-aff4-7af3-92e7-819127320534@generalboats.com> <1595907004252-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <77ffb524-95b1-04a6-b4dc-e25ca5b731ba@generalboats.com> <1596226351689-0.post@n5.nabble.com>, <247043968.7192172.1596230926478@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Yes, make note of the wrap direction and the number of turns that the furling line makes on the drum. I'm glad I took photos of mine when I replaced my main this year. - rob ________________________________ From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of Mark West via Rhodes22-list Sent: Friday, July 31, 2020 5:28 PM To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] mainsail problems straight mast is best, last year working with Charles on show boats we found one of the end bushing screw backed out and was hanging up inside sail area of mast, note rotation of line and sail and # of wraps around shaft the line makes Mark -----Original Message----- From: gramille To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Sent: Fri, Jul 31, 2020 4:12 pm Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] mainsail problems The mast is coming down soon and I will report back with what is discovered! I did wonder if I may have overtightened the rear stay causing or making worse the problem? That would perhaps explain the worsening of the problem this season! G -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From cknell at vt.edu Mon Aug 3 10:18:40 2020 From: cknell at vt.edu (Chris on LBI) Date: Mon, 3 Aug 2020 07:18:40 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Reconnecting the Tabernacle Screws Following Sacrificial Failure In-Reply-To: <80E5FDB0-B569-4C8A-831C-4A515A2BFDCD@sunnybeeches.com> References: <1596411570037-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <80E5FDB0-B569-4C8A-831C-4A515A2BFDCD@sunnybeeches.com> Message-ID: <1596464320215-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Peter, Thank you for your input. I am largely inexperienced with fiberglass, so you are probably right that I am overly concerned about damage to the fiberglass (although Rick's caution in the original thread does give one reason to be concerned ... he reported what sounded like extensive damage to the fiberglass around the block when his epoxy plugs pulled out). I don't have a sense for what fiberglass failure would look like in a case like this. Suppose three 3/8" epoxy plugs were to pull through the fiberglass. In your opinion, would the extent of the damage local to each hole be in the neighborhood of 1", 2", or more (or less)? If repairs were necessary due to plugs pulling through the fiberglass, how difficult would it be to remove the damaged fiberglass and then integrate the repair with the undamaged surface? My tendency is to do almost all repairs, except modern car engines, myself; would repair of this sort by a novice be an afternoon project, weekend project, or multi-week project? Thanks, Chris ----- Long Beach Island -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From cknell at vt.edu Mon Aug 3 10:49:13 2020 From: cknell at vt.edu (Chris on LBI) Date: Mon, 3 Aug 2020 07:49:13 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Reconnecting the Tabernacle Screws Following Sacrificial Failure In-Reply-To: References: <1596411570037-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <034901d6693a$c1adf0b0$4509d210$@ca> Message-ID: <1596466153734-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Roger, Thank you for that thought regarding uneven loading of the screws. I suspect that you are correct that the screws would actually fail in some sort of sequence. It sounded like a single "pop" when they gave way, but it easily could have been three pops almost on top of each other. Unfortunately I don't really have a target pullout force to base the design of the repair around. As I speculated in the original thread, under normal mast stepping/unstepping process, the screws should never have any upward force acting on them; it should all be shear force when the mast is horizontal. So I don't know whether 70, 210, 500, or 1500 pounds is "right". All I really have is a guess at how the factory may have constructed it to begin with (how long were the factory screws? what diameter were the factory screws? was the fiberglass hole larger than the screw itself?) and my boat with 1" screws and oblong holes that are larger than the screws. I don't know if or how many times my boat has already been through previous repairs. Also, I don't know what the designer's (Phil Rhodes?, Stan?) original motivation was for this sacrificial joint. Was it intended to fail safe to protect the cabin top (and what would be the maximum allowable force) or to protect something else that finds itself in the path of the lower half of a descending mast? Thanks, Chris ----- Long Beach Island -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From roger_pihlaja at msn.com Mon Aug 3 12:07:21 2020 From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA) Date: Mon, 3 Aug 2020 16:07:21 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Reconnecting the Tabernacle Screws Following Sacrificial Failure In-Reply-To: <1596466153734-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1596411570037-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <034901d6693a$c1adf0b0$4509d210$@ca> , <1596466153734-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: Chris, This a Statics problem in that during a normal mast stepping/unstepping, the mast should never achieve a rotational velocity wherein momentum is a significant issue. So, you just have the weight of the mast and all the force vector algebra associated with pulling on it from a changing angle. Because of the nonlinearity of the trig functions associated with these changing angles, the shear force on the mast tabernacle changes in a nonlinear manner as the angle changes. I would do the Statics vector math problem in increments of 10 deg from fully stepped to lying on the mast crutch. You will be able pick the peak off this curve to get the maximum design shear force. Roger Pihlaja S/V Dynamic Equilibrium Sent from my iPhone > On Aug 3, 2020, at 10:49 AM, Chris on LBI wrote: > > ?Roger, > > Thank you for that thought regarding uneven loading of the screws. I suspect > that you are correct that the screws would actually fail in some sort of > sequence. It sounded like a single "pop" when they gave way, but it easily > could have been three pops almost on top of each other. > > Unfortunately I don't really have a target pullout force to base the design > of the repair around. As I speculated in the original thread, under normal > mast stepping/unstepping process, the screws should never have any upward > force acting on them; it should all be shear force when the mast is > horizontal. So I don't know whether 70, 210, 500, or 1500 pounds is "right". > > All I really have is a guess at how the factory may have constructed it to > begin with (how long were the factory screws? what diameter were the factory > screws? was the fiberglass hole larger than the screw itself?) and my boat > with 1" screws and oblong holes that are larger than the screws. I don't > know if or how many times my boat has already been through previous repairs. > > Also, I don't know what the designer's (Phil Rhodes?, Stan?) original > motivation was for this sacrificial joint. Was it intended to fail safe to > protect the cabin top (and what would be the maximum allowable force) or to > protect something else that finds itself in the path of the lower half of a > descending mast? > > Thanks, > Chris > > > > > > > ----- > Long Beach Island > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From cknell at vt.edu Mon Aug 3 12:39:00 2020 From: cknell at vt.edu (Chris on LBI) Date: Mon, 3 Aug 2020 09:39:00 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Reconnecting the Tabernacle Screws Following Sacrificial Failure In-Reply-To: References: <1596411570037-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <034901d6693a$c1adf0b0$4509d210$@ca> <1596466153734-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <1596472740880-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Roger, I think you are saying that I can conceivably calculate the shear force that the screws need to withstand. All of my analysis and comments up to this point have been about pullout force, not shear. I have been assuming that the shear forces acting on the three screws are trivial relative to the strength of the screw, the tabernacle base and the mounting block. Perhaps this is a mistake and this force is not trivial. Now in thinking about it for the first time, if there is a non-structural gap between the bottom of the tabernacle base and the epoxy plug (maybe 1/4") that is filled with gelcoat or some other sealant, this gap would effectively transfer the lateral shear force into a rotational force on the screw, a component of which would be pullout force and could be calculated. Thanks, Chris ----- Long Beach Island -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From roger_pihlaja at msn.com Mon Aug 3 12:59:24 2020 From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA) Date: Mon, 3 Aug 2020 16:59:24 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Reconnecting the Tabernacle Screws Following Sacrificial Failure In-Reply-To: <1596472740880-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1596411570037-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <034901d6693a$c1adf0b0$4509d210$@ca> <1596466153734-0.post@n5.nabble.com> , <1596472740880-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: Chris, During a ?normal? mast stepping/unstopping, there should be no upward pulling force on the screws, only shear. However, the shear forces are applied at one end of the screws. This would apply a torque on the screws that would try to rip the screws out of the mast step. Assuming some rot, this torque might cause the screws to fail by rotating thru the mast step, not shearing the head of the metal screw off. Another disaster scenario you could calculate is to assume the mast is allowed to fall off the boat?s centerline by 10, 15, or 20 degrees as it is being raised. This off-center geometry would introduce a torque that would try to pull out the screws. This is actually the sort of disaster scenario that the screws should be realistically able to withstand. You might have a brief angular mast excursion, recognize it, and quickly correct it. It would be nice if the system wasn?t so finicky as to fail in a scenario like that. If you experience a stay or chainplate failure, well just hope no one gets hurt! Roger Pihlaja S/V Dynamic Equilibrium Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Chris on LBI Sent: Monday, August 3, 2020 12:39 PM To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Reconnecting the Tabernacle Screws Following Sacrificial Failure Roger, I think you are saying that I can conceivably calculate the shear force that the screws need to withstand. All of my analysis and comments up to this point have been about pullout force, not shear. I have been assuming that the shear forces acting on the three screws are trivial relative to the strength of the screw, the tabernacle base and the mounting block. Perhaps this is a mistake and this force is not trivial. Now in thinking about it for the first time, if there is a non-structural gap between the bottom of the tabernacle base and the epoxy plug (maybe 1/4") that is filled with gelcoat or some other sealant, this gap would effectively transfer the lateral shear force into a rotational force on the screw, a component of which would be pullout force and could be calculated. Thanks, Chris ----- Long Beach Island -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From cknell at vt.edu Mon Aug 3 13:45:45 2020 From: cknell at vt.edu (Chris on LBI) Date: Mon, 3 Aug 2020 10:45:45 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Reconnecting the Tabernacle Screws Following Sacrificial Failure In-Reply-To: References: <1596411570037-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <034901d6693a$c1adf0b0$4509d210$@ca> <1596466153734-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1596472740880-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <1596476745029-0.post@n5.nabble.com> OK Everyone, Thank you again for all of your input. This is getting to be too much analysis and not enough sailing for my first mate so I am going to pick (as Graham has suggested) the solution that I am most comfortable with. I'm going to go with the previously-tried, time-tested, generally-accepted, epoxy-only repair method. I am going to fill the holes with epoxy, drill them out after it sets but before it cures. I'll put the screws in after I drill (to tap the holes) then back them out while the epoxy cures. After the season is over and we've lowered the mast in a gentler fashion, I'll back the screws out and remove the tabernacle plate so that I can make the gelcoat repairs. If at some point in the future I cause the mounting block to be ripped out of the fiberglass due to a stepping/unstepping error, I'll be sure to acknowledge Rick's cautionary words. Thank you all for your time, knowledge, and interest! Chris ----- Long Beach Island -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From cknell at vt.edu Mon Aug 3 14:28:04 2020 From: cknell at vt.edu (Chris on LBI) Date: Mon, 3 Aug 2020 11:28:04 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Reconnecting the Tabernacle Screws Following Sacrificial Failure In-Reply-To: References: <1596411570037-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <1596479284335-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Mike, I considered your suggestion. Since the hole is so small, I don't think I would be able to keep a small piece of wood cross-grained in one piece and my sense is that it would not provide any real strength ... at least not any more than the wood slivers which would be easier to fabricate. Thank you. Chris ----- Long Beach Island -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From shawn.sustain at gmail.com Mon Aug 3 15:46:06 2020 From: shawn.sustain at gmail.com (Shawn Boles) Date: Mon, 3 Aug 2020 12:46:06 -0700 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] mainsail problems In-Reply-To: References: <1595770984728-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <40313db9-aff4-7af3-92e7-819127320534@generalboats.com> <1595907004252-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <77ffb524-95b1-04a6-b4dc-e25ca5b731ba@generalboats.com> <1596226351689-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <247043968.7192172.1596230926478@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Hi All: Having made a fool of myself for the better part of 2 weeks by insisting to my yard that the Sally (IMF) sail entered the slot from the starboard side rather than port, I am enjoying the thread no end. I even tried to sail her w/ incorrect setup and it did not go well! Serves me right for violating Stan's dictum that if it is hard you are doing it wrong. I can only plead age and the covid-19 miasma. Once properly set up( furled sail is clockwise when viewed from above), things are good. Boom slightly starboard and slightly raised - easy peasy. Sailing is a blessing in these strange times. Stay safe. Cheers, Shawn s/v Sweet Baboo On Mon, Aug 3, 2020, 6:45 AM Lowe, Rob wrote: > Yes, make note of the wrap direction and the number of turns that the > furling line makes on the drum. I'm glad I took photos of mine when I > replaced my main this year. - rob > > > ________________________________ > From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of > Mark West via Rhodes22-list > Sent: Friday, July 31, 2020 5:28 PM > To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] mainsail problems > > straight mast is best, last year working with Charles on show boats we > found one of the end bushing screw backed out and was hanging up inside > sail area of mast, note rotation of line and sail and # of wraps around > shaft the line makes Mark > > > -----Original Message----- > From: gramille > To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org > Sent: Fri, Jul 31, 2020 4:12 pm > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] mainsail problems > > The mast is coming down soon and I will report back with what is > discovered! > I did wonder if I may have overtightened the rear stay causing or making > worse the problem? > That would perhaps explain the worsening of the problem this season! > G > > > > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > From jose.faraldo at gmail.com Mon Aug 3 18:00:57 2020 From: jose.faraldo at gmail.com (Jose Faraldo-Gomez) Date: Mon, 3 Aug 2020 18:00:57 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Preparing for Isaias Message-ID: We?re on the path of Isaias so I?m preparing the boat. Does ?da list? recommend: - Dropping rudder in the water (and fix it in place) to minimize winds pushing on it? - Releasing mainsail clew and wrap around mast? - Lifting the boom and fix to mast? - None of the above? Anything else? Thanks! Jose From snstaum at gmail.com Mon Aug 3 18:35:56 2020 From: snstaum at gmail.com (Stephen Staum) Date: Mon, 3 Aug 2020 18:35:56 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Preparing for Isaias In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I usually put a couple of bungees on the Genoa to make sure it doesn?t open & get destroyed. My Bimini rests on the stern rail so bungee that as well. Be sure the cabin slider is secured shut. I lost the Carol Lee in a hurricane 6 or 7 years ago. The slider opened & the cabin took on water leading to capsize, turtle & demasting. I leave the rudder up with extra bungees on the tiller. Stephen Staum s/v Carol Lee 2 Needham, MA On Mon, Aug 3, 2020 at 6:01 PM Jose Faraldo-Gomez wrote: > > We?re on the path of Isaias so I?m preparing the boat. Does ?da list? > recommend: > > - Dropping rudder in the water (and fix it in place) to minimize winds > pushing on it? > - Releasing mainsail clew and wrap around mast? > - Lifting the boom and fix to mast? > - None of the above? Anything else? > > Thanks! > > Jose -- Stephen Staum Pariser Industries, Inc. From cknell at vt.edu Mon Aug 3 19:22:09 2020 From: cknell at vt.edu (Chris on LBI) Date: Mon, 3 Aug 2020 16:22:09 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Reconnecting the Tabernacle Screws Following Sacrificial Failure In-Reply-To: <1596479284335-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1596411570037-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1596479284335-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <1596496929365-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Hey! I forgot to ask one important question: What epoxy would the list recommend? I have Marine-Tex, but from what I have read, that is not going to be hard enough. Thanks, Chris ----- Long Beach Island -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From jose.faraldo at gmail.com Mon Aug 3 20:00:26 2020 From: jose.faraldo at gmail.com (Jose Faraldo-Gomez) Date: Mon, 3 Aug 2020 20:00:26 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Preparing for Isaias In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Thanks, Stephan - and sorry to hear about the Carol Lee. Sounds devastating to lose a boat like that.. J > On Aug 3, 2020, at 6:36 PM, Stephen Staum wrote: > > ?I usually put a couple of bungees on the Genoa to make sure it doesn?t open > & get destroyed. My Bimini rests on the stern rail so bungee that as well. > Be sure the cabin slider is secured shut. I lost the Carol Lee in a > hurricane 6 or 7 years ago. The slider opened & the cabin took on water > leading to capsize, turtle & demasting. I leave the rudder up with extra > bungees on the tiller. > > Stephen Staum > s/v Carol Lee 2 > Needham, MA > >> On Mon, Aug 3, 2020 at 6:01 PM Jose Faraldo-Gomez >> wrote: >> >> >> We?re on the path of Isaias so I?m preparing the boat. Does ?da list? >> recommend: >> >> - Dropping rudder in the water (and fix it in place) to minimize winds >> pushing on it? >> - Releasing mainsail clew and wrap around mast? >> - Lifting the boom and fix to mast? >> - None of the above? Anything else? >> >> Thanks! >> >> Jose > > -- > Stephen Staum > Pariser Industries, Inc. From peter at sunnybeeches.com Mon Aug 3 21:07:47 2020 From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg) Date: Mon, 3 Aug 2020 21:07:47 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Preparing for Isaias In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <2CCB34F8-669E-4E0C-8ADF-4B3BE09EE775@sunnybeeches.com> What I did was put the boat on its trailer and took it home. Peter Nyberg Coventry, CT s/v Silverheels (1988/2016) > On Aug 3, 2020, at 6:00 PM, Jose Faraldo-Gomez wrote: > > > We?re on the path of Isaias so I?m preparing the boat. Does ?da list? recommend: > > - Dropping rudder in the water (and fix it in place) to minimize winds pushing on it? > - Releasing mainsail clew and wrap around mast? > - Lifting the boom and fix to mast? > - None of the above? Anything else? > > Thanks! > > Jose From roger_pihlaja at msn.com Mon Aug 3 21:11:55 2020 From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA) Date: Tue, 4 Aug 2020 01:11:55 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Preparing for Isaias In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: How about, get the boat out of the water and tow it as far from the coast as possible? Roger Pihlaja S/V Dynamic Equilibrium Sent from my iPhone > On Aug 3, 2020, at 8:00 PM, Jose Faraldo-Gomez wrote: > > ?Thanks, Stephan - and sorry to hear about the Carol Lee. Sounds devastating to lose a boat like that.. > > J > >> On Aug 3, 2020, at 6:36 PM, Stephen Staum wrote: >> >> ?I usually put a couple of bungees on the Genoa to make sure it doesn?t open >> & get destroyed. My Bimini rests on the stern rail so bungee that as well. >> Be sure the cabin slider is secured shut. I lost the Carol Lee in a >> hurricane 6 or 7 years ago. The slider opened & the cabin took on water >> leading to capsize, turtle & demasting. I leave the rudder up with extra >> bungees on the tiller. >> >> Stephen Staum >> s/v Carol Lee 2 >> Needham, MA >> >>> On Mon, Aug 3, 2020 at 6:01 PM Jose Faraldo-Gomez >>> wrote: >>> >>> >>> We?re on the path of Isaias so I?m preparing the boat. Does ?da list? >>> recommend: >>> >>> - Dropping rudder in the water (and fix it in place) to minimize winds >>> pushing on it? >>> - Releasing mainsail clew and wrap around mast? >>> - Lifting the boom and fix to mast? >>> - None of the above? Anything else? >>> >>> Thanks! >>> >>> Jose >> >> -- >> Stephen Staum >> Pariser Industries, Inc. From jose.faraldo at gmail.com Mon Aug 3 21:24:28 2020 From: jose.faraldo at gmail.com (Jose Faraldo-Gomez) Date: Mon, 3 Aug 2020 21:24:28 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Preparing for Isaias In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <5E5F5B71-0DF9-416F-AAF1-4E5C536873FF@gmail.com> I guess I should?ve clarified: no trailer, no truck. But thanks, anyway. J > On Aug 3, 2020, at 9:11 PM, ROGER PIHLAJA wrote: > > ?How about, get the boat out of the water and tow it as far from the coast as possible? > > Roger Pihlaja > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Aug 3, 2020, at 8:00 PM, Jose Faraldo-Gomez wrote: >> >> ?Thanks, Stephan - and sorry to hear about the Carol Lee. Sounds devastating to lose a boat like that.. >> >> J >> >>>> On Aug 3, 2020, at 6:36 PM, Stephen Staum wrote: >>> >>> ?I usually put a couple of bungees on the Genoa to make sure it doesn?t open >>> & get destroyed. My Bimini rests on the stern rail so bungee that as well. >>> Be sure the cabin slider is secured shut. I lost the Carol Lee in a >>> hurricane 6 or 7 years ago. The slider opened & the cabin took on water >>> leading to capsize, turtle & demasting. I leave the rudder up with extra >>> bungees on the tiller. >>> >>> Stephen Staum >>> s/v Carol Lee 2 >>> Needham, MA >>> >>>> On Mon, Aug 3, 2020 at 6:01 PM Jose Faraldo-Gomez >>>> wrote: >>>> >>>> >>>> We?re on the path of Isaias so I?m preparing the boat. Does ?da list? >>>> recommend: >>>> >>>> - Dropping rudder in the water (and fix it in place) to minimize winds >>>> pushing on it? >>>> - Releasing mainsail clew and wrap around mast? >>>> - Lifting the boom and fix to mast? >>>> - None of the above? Anything else? >>>> >>>> Thanks! >>>> >>>> Jose >>> >>> -- >>> Stephen Staum >>> Pariser Industries, Inc. From roger_pihlaja at msn.com Mon Aug 3 21:25:54 2020 From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA) Date: Tue, 4 Aug 2020 01:25:54 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Reconnecting the Tabernacle Screws Following Sacrificial Failure In-Reply-To: <1596496929365-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1596411570037-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1596479284335-0.post@n5.nabble.com>,<1596496929365-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: Chris, I like the WEST System of epoxy products. But, as a former Dow Chemical employee, I may have a conflict of interest here. Dow makes the epoxy resins, hardeners, and many of the additives used by the Gougeon Brothers in their WEST System products. I have firsthand experience with their product development process and the quality control involved in the manufacturing. The nice thing about the WEST system is that you start with straight epoxy resins and can then custom tailor it for specific applications with their broad portfolio of additives. I also like their calibrated hand pumps that automatically dispense the proper ratio of epoxy resin and hardener. They also publish a lot of free technical literature on the proper use of their products. Roger Pihlaja S/V Dynamic Equilibrium Sent from my iPhone > On Aug 3, 2020, at 7:22 PM, Chris on LBI wrote: > > ?Hey! > > I forgot to ask one important question: > > What epoxy would the list recommend? I have Marine-Tex, but from what I have > read, that is not going to be hard enough. > > Thanks, > Chris > > > > > ----- > Long Beach Island > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From gstewart8 at cogeco.ca Tue Aug 4 00:19:45 2020 From: gstewart8 at cogeco.ca (Graham Stewart) Date: Tue, 4 Aug 2020 00:19:45 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Reconnecting the Tabernacle Screws Following Sacrificial Failure In-Reply-To: <1596454315934-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1596411570037-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <034901d6693a$c1adf0b0$4509d210$@ca> <1596454315934-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <036e01d66a16$7d9fd5a0$78df80e0$@ca> Chris: I understand now what you meant when you proposed moving the holes. That would work, no doubt, but seems unnecessary to me. All I did with the holes that were located in the wrong place was to fill them with epoxy. I expect that the base plate probably left some marks on the fiberglass that should allow you to locate the plate properly. The other option might be to carefully screw the screw into the hole without the base plate and see if it centers itself. The hole might be elongated at the surface but might not be so distorted at the bottom. In my case I had neither old holes or marks to guide me so I made an accurate template out of hardboard of the base end of the mast and located it by putting the sail track of the template over the pop top slider when it was in the closed position. That told me where the mast has to be. I had marked on the template where the hinge bolt was located and transferred that location to the mast step. I then aligned the base plate with the slot markings and marked the location for the holes. When I place the screw into the epoxy I do it before the epoxy is entirely cured. It is soft enough to take the screw much like wood and is more forgiving. If you wait for the epoxy to cure the hole needs to be made with a drill bit that is exactly the right size for the screw or you might find it difficult to drive home and might actually break the head off the screw. Epoxy takes about 24 hours to cure but is relatively solid in a few hours and that is when you should drill the new hole and install the screws. Using wood slivers would also make the hole much easier to drill but I would still do it before the epoxy cured. Graham Stewart Agile, Rodes 22, 1976 Kingston Ontario -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Chris on LBI Sent: Monday, August 3, 2020 7:32 AM To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Reconnecting the Tabernacle Screws Following Sacrificial Failure Graham, In thinking about drilling new holes, I was thinking that I would also drill new holes in the tabernacle base plate so the location of the base plate would not move. But your point about hole location raises an interesting additional problem for me that I had not considered. Each of the three existing holes in the mounting block below the base plate is now oblong, sort of like two holes slightly offset from one another in both the x and y axis. So I'll have to decide which of the two possible centers is the one I should use when remounting the tabernacle base plate. That is an interesting observation that Wood Slivers and Larger Holes are not mutually exclusive. I feel your pain relocating the base plate 3 times. When you did so, how did you repair the holes that were not located correctly? Also, do your screws bite into the fiberglass as well as the wood block underneath? Thanks, Chris ----- Long Beach Island -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From gstewart8 at cogeco.ca Tue Aug 4 00:25:10 2020 From: gstewart8 at cogeco.ca (Graham Stewart) Date: Tue, 4 Aug 2020 00:25:10 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Rudder Bolt Hole Enlarged In-Reply-To: References: <1596419730473-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <034f01d6693d$ac08fcc0$041af640$@ca> Message-ID: <036f01d66a17$3ec10ec0$bc432c40$@ca> George: I like Rogers solution better than the one I suggested. Graham Stewart Agile, Rodes 22, 1976 Kingston Ontario -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of ROGER PIHLAJA Sent: Monday, August 3, 2020 8:50 AM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Rudder Bolt Hole Enlarged George, I would drill out the hole to 2X it's present diameter. Then, coat the ID with unthickened epoxy to seal it. After the unthickened epoxy has kicked off; but, not fully cured, fill the hole with epoxy thickened with WEST System 406 Colloidal Silica and 423 Graphite powder mixed in a 90%wt 406, 10%wt 423 ratio. The thickener mixture should be dry blended first, not mixed separately into the epoxy. The epoxy should be loaded with the thickener such that the mixture flows like thick pancake batter. Mix the epoxy resin and thickener first, then add the thickener mixture, and blend it such that all the powder is wetted out with no lumps or bubbles. After the thickened epoxy is fully cured, drill out a hole for the bolt, and you're good to go. The 406/423 filler mixture will provide a very hard, abrasion resistant, lubricative bearing surface for the bolt to turn on. But, you won't have any galling or dissimilar metal corrosion issues with the stainless steel bolt. By waiting for the unthickened epoxy to kick off, but not fully cure, when you pour in the thickened epoxy, you will have a molecular and mechanical bond with the rudder substrate that will never fail. This repair will last a very long time. Roger Pihlaja S/V Dynamic Equilibrium Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Graham Stewart Sent: Sunday, August 2, 2020 10:27 PM To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Rudder Bolt Hole Enlarged George: Might you epoxy in a tube, preferably stainless steel but aluminum might do, that has an opening that is the proper diameter. Graham Stewart Agile, Rodes 22, 1976 Kingston Ontario -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Gmorganflier Sent: Sunday, August 2, 2020 9:56 PM To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Rudder Bolt Hole Enlarged I took my rudder and rudder cheeks off today in preparation to paint them. The hole in the rudder where the pivot bolt goes through is quite enlarged....probably twice the diameter of the bolt. I noticed the plywood core where the hole goes through was wet. I feared maybe my entire rudder was waterlogged, but after turning the rudder upside down and leaving it in the sun, the hole appears to be drying up. There are no cracks or damaged areas which would allow water intrusion. The bolt hole seems to be the only way water is getting in and we did have rain yesterday. My question to those who are so much more experienced than me in boating repairs....what should I do to stop water from getting in the rudder through this bolt hole. Maybe enlarge the hole even more and epoxy some sort of bushing for the bolt to go through? I'm open for suggestions. Thanks, George Morgan 1986 R22 S/V Knotty Lady -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From gstewart8 at cogeco.ca Tue Aug 4 00:40:33 2020 From: gstewart8 at cogeco.ca (Graham Stewart) Date: Tue, 4 Aug 2020 00:40:33 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Reconnecting the Tabernacle Screws Following Sacrificial Failure In-Reply-To: <1596496929365-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1596411570037-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1596479284335-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1596496929365-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <037001d66a19$64fe4380$2efaca80$@ca> I have always used West system but I suspect that it doesn't matter in this case. Graham Stewart Agile, Rodes 22, 1976 Kingston Ontario -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Chris on LBI Sent: Monday, August 3, 2020 7:22 PM To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Reconnecting the Tabernacle Screws Following Sacrificial Failure Hey! I forgot to ask one important question: What epoxy would the list recommend? I have Marine-Tex, but from what I have read, that is not going to be hard enough. Thanks, Chris ----- Long Beach Island -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com Tue Aug 4 07:49:18 2020 From: jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com (Jesse Shumaker) Date: Tue, 4 Aug 2020 06:49:18 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Reconnecting the Tabernacle Screws Following Sacrificial Failure In-Reply-To: <1596496929365-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1596411570037-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1596479284335-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1596496929365-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: Chris, that would be great if you could take some photos along the way and let us know how your project goes. I'm going to be installing a halyard organizer underneath the tabernacle this fall, so this discussion about mounting the screws is timely. Your thinking and the advice from the group on this topic has been very informative. Good luck on your project! Jesse Shumaker S/V Zephyr On Mon, Aug 3, 2020 at 6:22 PM Chris on LBI wrote: > Hey! > > I forgot to ask one important question: > > What epoxy would the list recommend? I have Marine-Tex, but from what I > have > read, that is not going to be hard enough. > > Thanks, > Chris > > > > > ----- > Long Beach Island > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > From mweisner at ebsmed.com Tue Aug 4 08:26:33 2020 From: mweisner at ebsmed.com (Michael D. Weisner) Date: Tue, 4 Aug 2020 08:26:33 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Preparing for Isaias In-Reply-To: <2CCB34F8-669E-4E0C-8ADF-4B3BE09EE775@sunnybeeches.com> References: <2CCB34F8-669E-4E0C-8ADF-4B3BE09EE775@sunnybeeches.com> Message-ID: <00a701d66a5a$7e568a90$7b039fb0$@ebsmed.com> I'm still in the water. Monday winds were fantastic! After returning to my mooring, I battened everything down and hope that the winds, predicted to reach 65 mph this afternoon, do not damage her. Wednesday looks to be a beautiful day to go sailing. With tornado watches in our area, be sure to strap the boat to the trailer and tie down securely. Being on the hard with the high winds may not be safer, necessarily. Can you put Silverheels in a barn? Mike s/v Wind Lass ('91) Nissequogue River, NY -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of Peter Nyberg Sent: Monday, August 3, 2020 9:08 PM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Preparing for Isaias What I did was put the boat on its trailer and took it home. Peter Nyberg Coventry, CT s/v Silverheels (1988/2016) > On Aug 3, 2020, at 6:00 PM, Jose Faraldo-Gomez wrote: > > > We?re on the path of Isaias so I?m preparing the boat. Does ?da list? recommend: > > - Dropping rudder in the water (and fix it in place) to minimize winds pushing on it? > - Releasing mainsail clew and wrap around mast? > - Lifting the boom and fix to mast? > - None of the above? Anything else? > > Thanks! > > Jose From rlowe at vt.edu Tue Aug 4 08:58:56 2020 From: rlowe at vt.edu (Lowe, Rob) Date: Tue, 4 Aug 2020 12:58:56 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Preparing for Isaias In-Reply-To: <5E5F5B71-0DF9-416F-AAF1-4E5C536873FF@gmail.com> References: , <5E5F5B71-0DF9-416F-AAF1-4E5C536873FF@gmail.com> Message-ID: Jose, You at a slip? Preparing for any storm surge probably as important as preparing for wind. Double lines all around. Make sure all drains are clear. BoatUS has a lot of good advice. - rob https://www.boatus.com/expert-advice/safety-and-prevention/hurricanes ________________________________ From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of Jose Faraldo-Gomez Sent: Monday, August 3, 2020 9:24 PM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Preparing for Isaias I guess I should?ve clarified: no trailer, no truck. But thanks, anyway. J > On Aug 3, 2020, at 9:11 PM, ROGER PIHLAJA wrote: > > ?How about, get the boat out of the water and tow it as far from the coast as possible? > > Roger Pihlaja > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Aug 3, 2020, at 8:00 PM, Jose Faraldo-Gomez wrote: >> >> ?Thanks, Stephan - and sorry to hear about the Carol Lee. Sounds devastating to lose a boat like that.. >> >> J >> >>>> On Aug 3, 2020, at 6:36 PM, Stephen Staum wrote: >>> >>> ?I usually put a couple of bungees on the Genoa to make sure it doesn?t open >>> & get destroyed. My Bimini rests on the stern rail so bungee that as well. >>> Be sure the cabin slider is secured shut. I lost the Carol Lee in a >>> hurricane 6 or 7 years ago. The slider opened & the cabin took on water >>> leading to capsize, turtle & demasting. I leave the rudder up with extra >>> bungees on the tiller. >>> >>> Stephen Staum >>> s/v Carol Lee 2 >>> Needham, MA >>> >>>> On Mon, Aug 3, 2020 at 6:01 PM Jose Faraldo-Gomez >>>> wrote: >>>> >>>> >>>> We?re on the path of Isaias so I?m preparing the boat. Does ?da list? >>>> recommend: >>>> >>>> - Dropping rudder in the water (and fix it in place) to minimize winds >>>> pushing on it? >>>> - Releasing mainsail clew and wrap around mast? >>>> - Lifting the boom and fix to mast? >>>> - None of the above? Anything else? >>>> >>>> Thanks! >>>> >>>> Jose >>> >>> -- >>> Stephen Staum >>> Pariser Industries, Inc. From roger_pihlaja at msn.com Tue Aug 4 11:29:57 2020 From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA) Date: Tue, 4 Aug 2020 15:29:57 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Preparing for Isaias In-Reply-To: References: , <5E5F5B71-0DF9-416F-AAF1-4E5C536873FF@gmail.com>, Message-ID: Jose, Besides Rob?s advice below, make certain you have antichafe protection on all line chocks and whereever a line might rub up against something abrasive. If your boat has an automatic bilge pump, make certain the pump is in AUTO mode, the bilge is free of debris that might jam the float, and your battery is fully charged. I would remove as much stuff as possible including sails and Bimini. But, even this might not be enough. The trouble with being in a harbor is that other anchored boats and even whole dock sections are likely to break loose and clobber your boat! Many folks will opt to stay on board to attempt to save their boats from these unexpected events. But, I don?t recommend that strategy, especially with a small trailerable boat like the Rhodes 22. You?re in a bad spot. At least it?s only a tropical storm. I hope your insurance is up to date. Good Luck! Roger Pihlaja S/V Dynamic Equilibrium Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Lowe, Rob Sent: Tuesday, August 4, 2020 8:59 AM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Preparing for Isaias Jose, You at a slip? Preparing for any storm surge probably as important as preparing for wind. Double lines all around. Make sure all drains are clear. BoatUS has a lot of good advice. - rob https://www.boatus.com/expert-advice/safety-and-prevention/hurricanes ________________________________ From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of Jose Faraldo-Gomez Sent: Monday, August 3, 2020 9:24 PM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Preparing for Isaias I guess I should?ve clarified: no trailer, no truck. But thanks, anyway. J > On Aug 3, 2020, at 9:11 PM, ROGER PIHLAJA wrote: > > ?How about, get the boat out of the water and tow it as far from the coast as possible? > > Roger Pihlaja > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Aug 3, 2020, at 8:00 PM, Jose Faraldo-Gomez wrote: >> >> ?Thanks, Stephan - and sorry to hear about the Carol Lee. Sounds devastating to lose a boat like that.. >> >> J >> >>>> On Aug 3, 2020, at 6:36 PM, Stephen Staum wrote: >>> >>> ?I usually put a couple of bungees on the Genoa to make sure it doesn?t open >>> & get destroyed. My Bimini rests on the stern rail so bungee that as well. >>> Be sure the cabin slider is secured shut. I lost the Carol Lee in a >>> hurricane 6 or 7 years ago. The slider opened & the cabin took on water >>> leading to capsize, turtle & demasting. I leave the rudder up with extra >>> bungees on the tiller. >>> >>> Stephen Staum >>> s/v Carol Lee 2 >>> Needham, MA >>> >>>> On Mon, Aug 3, 2020 at 6:01 PM Jose Faraldo-Gomez >>>> wrote: >>>> >>>> >>>> We?re on the path of Isaias so I?m preparing the boat. Does ?da list? >>>> recommend: >>>> >>>> - Dropping rudder in the water (and fix it in place) to minimize winds >>>> pushing on it? >>>> - Releasing mainsail clew and wrap around mast? >>>> - Lifting the boom and fix to mast? >>>> - None of the above? Anything else? >>>> >>>> Thanks! >>>> >>>> Jose >>> >>> -- >>> Stephen Staum >>> Pariser Industries, Inc. From peter at sunnybeeches.com Tue Aug 4 11:34:28 2020 From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg) Date: Tue, 4 Aug 2020 11:34:28 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Preparing for Isaias In-Reply-To: <00a701d66a5a$7e568a90$7b039fb0$@ebsmed.com> References: <2CCB34F8-669E-4E0C-8ADF-4B3BE09EE775@sunnybeeches.com> <00a701d66a5a$7e568a90$7b039fb0$@ebsmed.com> Message-ID: <85621534-FE55-4580-B557-E38947863EAB@sunnybeeches.com> No barn available for Silverheels, alas, and no place on my property completely out of the reach of a toppling tree. I agree that the boat may not be safer at home than on the mooring. ?Peter > On Aug 4, 2020, at 8:26 AM, Michael D. Weisner wrote: > > I'm still in the water. > > Monday winds were fantastic! After returning to my mooring, I battened everything down and hope that the winds, predicted to reach 65 mph this afternoon, do not damage her. > > Wednesday looks to be a beautiful day to go sailing. > > With tornado watches in our area, be sure to strap the boat to the trailer and tie down securely. Being on the hard with the high winds may not be safer, necessarily. Can you put Silverheels in a barn? > > Mike > s/v Wind Lass ('91) > Nissequogue River, NY > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of Peter Nyberg > Sent: Monday, August 3, 2020 9:08 PM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Preparing for Isaias > > What I did was put the boat on its trailer and took it home. > > Peter Nyberg > Coventry, CT > s/v Silverheels (1988/2016) > >> On Aug 3, 2020, at 6:00 PM, Jose Faraldo-Gomez wrote: >> >> >> We?re on the path of Isaias so I?m preparing the boat. Does ?da list? recommend: >> >> - Dropping rudder in the water (and fix it in place) to minimize winds pushing on it? >> - Releasing mainsail clew and wrap around mast? >> - Lifting the boom and fix to mast? >> - None of the above? Anything else? >> >> Thanks! >> >> Jose > From jose.faraldo at gmail.com Tue Aug 4 19:44:53 2020 From: jose.faraldo at gmail.com (Jose Faraldo-Gomez) Date: Tue, 4 Aug 2020 19:44:53 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Preparing for Isaias In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1E307BF8-A79E-4155-AAE2-BC16BB661D7A@gmail.com> Thanks, Roger. All is good, thankfully. We?ll have to prepare better next time, though. J > On Aug 4, 2020, at 11:30 AM, ROGER PIHLAJA wrote: > > ?Jose, > > Besides Rob?s advice below, make certain you have antichafe protection on all line chocks and whereever a line might rub up against something abrasive. If your boat has an automatic bilge pump, make certain the pump is in AUTO mode, the bilge is free of debris that might jam the float, and your battery is fully charged. I would remove as much stuff as possible including sails and Bimini. But, even this might not be enough. The trouble with being in a harbor is that other anchored boats and even whole dock sections are likely to break loose and clobber your boat! Many folks will opt to stay on board to attempt to save their boats from these unexpected events. But, I don?t recommend that strategy, especially with a small trailerable boat like the Rhodes 22. > > You?re in a bad spot. At least it?s only a tropical storm. I hope your insurance is up to date. Good Luck! > > Roger Pihlaja > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium > > Sent from Mail for Windows 10 > > From: Lowe, Rob > Sent: Tuesday, August 4, 2020 8:59 AM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Preparing for Isaias > > Jose, > You at a slip? Preparing for any storm surge probably as important as preparing for wind. Double lines all around. Make sure all drains are clear. BoatUS has a lot of good advice. - rob > https://www.boatus.com/expert-advice/safety-and-prevention/hurricanes > > > ________________________________ > From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of Jose Faraldo-Gomez > Sent: Monday, August 3, 2020 9:24 PM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Preparing for Isaias > > I guess I should?ve clarified: no trailer, no truck. But thanks, anyway. > > J > >> On Aug 3, 2020, at 9:11 PM, ROGER PIHLAJA wrote: >> >> ?How about, get the boat out of the water and tow it as far from the coast as possible? >> >> Roger Pihlaja >> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >>>> On Aug 3, 2020, at 8:00 PM, Jose Faraldo-Gomez wrote: >>> >>> ?Thanks, Stephan - and sorry to hear about the Carol Lee. Sounds devastating to lose a boat like that.. >>> >>> J >>> >>>>> On Aug 3, 2020, at 6:36 PM, Stephen Staum wrote: >>>> >>>> ?I usually put a couple of bungees on the Genoa to make sure it doesn?t open >>>> & get destroyed. My Bimini rests on the stern rail so bungee that as well. >>>> Be sure the cabin slider is secured shut. I lost the Carol Lee in a >>>> hurricane 6 or 7 years ago. The slider opened & the cabin took on water >>>> leading to capsize, turtle & demasting. I leave the rudder up with extra >>>> bungees on the tiller. >>>> >>>> Stephen Staum >>>> s/v Carol Lee 2 >>>> Needham, MA >>>> >>>>> On Mon, Aug 3, 2020 at 6:01 PM Jose Faraldo-Gomez >>>>> wrote: >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> We?re on the path of Isaias so I?m preparing the boat. Does ?da list? >>>>> recommend: >>>>> >>>>> - Dropping rudder in the water (and fix it in place) to minimize winds >>>>> pushing on it? >>>>> - Releasing mainsail clew and wrap around mast? >>>>> - Lifting the boom and fix to mast? >>>>> - None of the above? Anything else? >>>>> >>>>> Thanks! >>>>> >>>>> Jose >>>> >>>> -- >>>> Stephen Staum >>>> Pariser Industries, Inc. > From roger_pihlaja at msn.com Tue Aug 4 21:40:49 2020 From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA) Date: Wed, 5 Aug 2020 01:40:49 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Preparing for Isaias In-Reply-To: <1E307BF8-A79E-4155-AAE2-BC16BB661D7A@gmail.com> References: , <1E307BF8-A79E-4155-AAE2-BC16BB661D7A@gmail.com> Message-ID: Jose, Thank God! My father always used to say, ?There is just no substitute for dumb luck!? I?m glad you get a second chance. Roger Pihlaja S/V Dynamic Equilibrium Sent from my iPhone > On Aug 4, 2020, at 7:45 PM, Jose Faraldo-Gomez wrote: > > ?Thanks, Roger. All is good, thankfully. We?ll have to prepare better next time, though. > > J > >> On Aug 4, 2020, at 11:30 AM, ROGER PIHLAJA wrote: >> >> ?Jose, >> >> Besides Rob?s advice below, make certain you have antichafe protection on all line chocks and whereever a line might rub up against something abrasive. If your boat has an automatic bilge pump, make certain the pump is in AUTO mode, the bilge is free of debris that might jam the float, and your battery is fully charged. I would remove as much stuff as possible including sails and Bimini. But, even this might not be enough. The trouble with being in a harbor is that other anchored boats and even whole dock sections are likely to break loose and clobber your boat! Many folks will opt to stay on board to attempt to save their boats from these unexpected events. But, I don?t recommend that strategy, especially with a small trailerable boat like the Rhodes 22. >> >> You?re in a bad spot. At least it?s only a tropical storm. I hope your insurance is up to date. Good Luck! >> >> Roger Pihlaja >> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium >> >> Sent from Mail for Windows 10 >> >> From: Lowe, Rob >> Sent: Tuesday, August 4, 2020 8:59 AM >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Preparing for Isaias >> >> Jose, >> You at a slip? Preparing for any storm surge probably as important as preparing for wind. Double lines all around. Make sure all drains are clear. BoatUS has a lot of good advice. - rob >> https://www.boatus.com/expert-advice/safety-and-prevention/hurricanes >> >> >> ________________________________ >> From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of Jose Faraldo-Gomez >> Sent: Monday, August 3, 2020 9:24 PM >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Preparing for Isaias >> >> I guess I should?ve clarified: no trailer, no truck. But thanks, anyway. >> >> J >> >>>> On Aug 3, 2020, at 9:11 PM, ROGER PIHLAJA wrote: >>> >>> ?How about, get the boat out of the water and tow it as far from the coast as possible? >>> >>> Roger Pihlaja >>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium >>> >>> Sent from my iPhone >>> >>>>> On Aug 3, 2020, at 8:00 PM, Jose Faraldo-Gomez wrote: >>>> >>>> ?Thanks, Stephan - and sorry to hear about the Carol Lee. Sounds devastating to lose a boat like that.. >>>> >>>> J >>>> >>>>>> On Aug 3, 2020, at 6:36 PM, Stephen Staum wrote: >>>>> >>>>> ?I usually put a couple of bungees on the Genoa to make sure it doesn?t open >>>>> & get destroyed. My Bimini rests on the stern rail so bungee that as well. >>>>> Be sure the cabin slider is secured shut. I lost the Carol Lee in a >>>>> hurricane 6 or 7 years ago. The slider opened & the cabin took on water >>>>> leading to capsize, turtle & demasting. I leave the rudder up with extra >>>>> bungees on the tiller. >>>>> >>>>> Stephen Staum >>>>> s/v Carol Lee 2 >>>>> Needham, MA >>>>> >>>>>> On Mon, Aug 3, 2020 at 6:01 PM Jose Faraldo-Gomez >>>>>> wrote: >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> We?re on the path of Isaias so I?m preparing the boat. Does ?da list? >>>>>> recommend: >>>>>> >>>>>> - Dropping rudder in the water (and fix it in place) to minimize winds >>>>>> pushing on it? >>>>>> - Releasing mainsail clew and wrap around mast? >>>>>> - Lifting the boom and fix to mast? >>>>>> - None of the above? Anything else? >>>>>> >>>>>> Thanks! >>>>>> >>>>>> Jose >>>>> >>>>> -- >>>>> Stephen Staum >>>>> Pariser Industries, Inc. >> From gmorgan.flier at gmail.com Tue Aug 4 22:20:10 2020 From: gmorgan.flier at gmail.com (Gmorganflier) Date: Tue, 4 Aug 2020 19:20:10 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Rudder Bolt Hole Enlarged In-Reply-To: <036f01d66a17$3ec10ec0$bc432c40$@ca> References: <1596419730473-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <034f01d6693d$ac08fcc0$041af640$@ca> <036f01d66a17$3ec10ec0$bc432c40$@ca> Message-ID: <1596594010537-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Graham, I do plan to use Roger?s technique. I?ve got the epoxy and I ordered the silica and graphite. I realized in order to drill the hole out larger, I?ll probably have to epoxy a wood plug into the existing hole and cut it off flush with the rudder. This is the only way I can think of to give the drill bit a center point to drill into. I wonder if there?s an easier way? George -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From gstewart8 at cogeco.ca Wed Aug 5 01:57:12 2020 From: gstewart8 at cogeco.ca (Graham Stewart) Date: Wed, 5 Aug 2020 01:57:12 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Rudder Bolt Hole Enlarged In-Reply-To: <1596594010537-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1596419730473-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <034f01d6693d$ac08fcc0$041af640$@ca> <036f01d66a17$3ec10ec0$bc432c40$@ca> <1596594010537-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <039b01d66aed$44adc2c0$ce094840$@ca> George: Possibly a step bit would work. Alternatively you can use a hole saw with a piece of dowel over the bit that is the approximate diameter of the existing hole. You don't need to epoxy it in place as it is used only as a guide. Graham Stewart Agile, Rodes 22, 1976 Kingston Ontario -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Gmorganflier Sent: Tuesday, August 4, 2020 10:20 PM To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Rudder Bolt Hole Enlarged Graham, I do plan to use Roger?s technique. I?ve got the epoxy and I ordered the silica and graphite. I realized in order to drill the hole out larger, I?ll probably have to epoxy a wood plug into the existing hole and cut it off flush with the rudder. This is the only way I can think of to give the drill bit a center point to drill into. I wonder if there?s an easier way? George -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From gmorgan.flier at gmail.com Wed Aug 5 07:01:27 2020 From: gmorgan.flier at gmail.com (Gmorganflier) Date: Wed, 5 Aug 2020 04:01:27 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Rudder Bolt Hole Enlarged In-Reply-To: <039b01d66aed$44adc2c0$ce094840$@ca> References: <1596419730473-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <034f01d6693d$ac08fcc0$041af640$@ca> <036f01d66a17$3ec10ec0$bc432c40$@ca> <1596594010537-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <039b01d66aed$44adc2c0$ce094840$@ca> Message-ID: <1596625287038-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Graham, This morning I used a tapered wooden peg, tapped it into the existing hole and then cut it off flush with the rudder. I use a forstner bit twice the size of the original hole centering it on the wood peg and it worked great. I have a nice hole to use Roger?s technique on and I was pleasantly surprised to find dry core out from the original hole. George Morgan S/V Knotty Lady -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From mark at whipplefamily.com Wed Aug 5 08:53:58 2020 From: mark at whipplefamily.com (Mark Whipple) Date: Wed, 5 Aug 2020 08:53:58 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Epoxy In-Reply-To: <1596594010537-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1596419730473-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <034f01d6693d$ac08fcc0$041af640$@ca> <036f01d66a17$3ec10ec0$bc432c40$@ca> <1596594010537-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: I enjoy reading all of the opinions and advice offered on this list. Here are a few thoughts related to a recent set of threads. It seems I have a talent for making posts that get zero responses - let's see if that trend continues! I've used epoxy on a variety of boats over the years. When doing a total renovation on a 28' Pearson Triton, the cost of epoxy was getting up there. I did some research and tried some sources other than West Systems. I settled on using RAKA epoxy (http://www.raka.com/epoxy.html) for a few reasons. It is lower viscosity than West (granted, I haven't used West in years) making it easier to wet out fiberglass cloth and to saturate wood core; it is simpler to measure since it's two parts resin to one part hardener; it is less expensive than West. RAKA also sells a variety of epoxy types and additives. I also recall a phone conversation when I was ordering where the owner asked about my project so he could help me buy what I needed. I just thought it was good for people to know that there are alternatives. Regarding filling a hole with a reduced-strength epoxy mixture, you might try some of the additives that are used to make it easier to sand hardened epoxy. Two that come to mind are microballoons and glass bubbles. You could also add wood flour which I think would also reduce the strength of the epoxy. Wood flour is much finer than sawdust (which might also work). If you have a sander with an attached collection bag, you'll have wood flour if you sand hardwood with something like a 150 or 220 grit. Hope that helps! Mark -- Boston, MA 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* 1987 Nimble 30 *For Sale* 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* From mark at whipplefamily.com Wed Aug 5 09:06:33 2020 From: mark at whipplefamily.com (Mark Whipple) Date: Wed, 5 Aug 2020 09:06:33 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Mast step/tabernacle question In-Reply-To: <1596594010537-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1596419730473-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <034f01d6693d$ac08fcc0$041af640$@ca> <036f01d66a17$3ec10ec0$bc432c40$@ca> <1596594010537-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: The Rhodes 22 is the only boat I've encountered where the tabernacle is designed to break away from the deck or cabin roof under stress. Most other deck-stepped masts would have the mast step or tabernacle through-bolted to the deck with substantial backing blocks. I understand that the design goal is to allow the tabernacle to break away from the cabin room if something goes awry while raising the mast. In providing that breakaway ability is the integrity of the mast step while under sail compromised? I get that we're talking about a different set of forces but having only about 5/8" length of screws holding the mast step in place during a good blow makes me wonder. On a 28' sailboat I once owned a rigger used 5200 (AKA the Devil's Glue) to attach the mast step to the cabin roof even though it was through-bolted to a hefty carrying beam below. Mark -- Boston, MA 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* 1987 Nimble 30 *For Sale* 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* From joedempsey at hughes.net Wed Aug 5 11:52:18 2020 From: joedempsey at hughes.net (Joe Dempsey) Date: Wed, 5 Aug 2020 08:52:18 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] mainsail problems In-Reply-To: <000d01d6650d$8cc158f0$a6440ad0$@ebsmed.com> References: <1595770984728-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <40313db9-aff4-7af3-92e7-819127320534@generalboats.com> <1595907004252-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1881679227.5809182.1595941736437@mail.yahoo.com> <1595944556582-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1595956132233-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <000d01d6650d$8cc158f0$a6440ad0$@ebsmed.com> Message-ID: <1596642738072-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Every now and then, I have a problem with furling the main. I've long adhered to Stan's edict, "if it ain't working, don't force it"! STOP! Step back and assess the situation. It's usually: 1. a boom height, (Topping lift, not boom block position) issue. Raise or I too had a tear and had to remove the main from the mast. Chris's directions are spot on! I'd recommend everyone copying them to keep in your manual. Also the tip of adding three or four coils of furling line on the spool before wrapping the main back on the tube are excellent. I do have some photos that may assist, may be overkill, but hope it may help someone! ----- Joe Dempsey s/v Respite Rhodes 22 1989/2005 Deltaville,VA -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From richard at macarthurlawfirm.com Wed Aug 5 13:00:54 2020 From: richard at macarthurlawfirm.com (Richard MacArthur) Date: Wed, 5 Aug 2020 17:00:54 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Rhodes22-list Digest, Vol 4230, Issue 1 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: With regard to the screws pulling out of the tabernacle, that happened to me about four years ago. The mast was at about 45 degrees but instead of the butt shooting across the foredeck and the mast falling, the butt hit the crane mounting and stopped. My attempts to fill the holes with short lengths of fiberglass and epoxy the new screws in didn't work. That did not hold the mast but pulled out. I decided to give the tabernacle extra help. I put the screws back I as before but this time I rigged two cables from the tabernacle bolt to the cleats on each side of the companionway, put protective covering where the cables contacted the deck, and tightened the cables with hardware bought turnbuckles. Now the tabernacle can't move and we crank the mast up and down with confidence. -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of rhodes22-list-request at rhodes22.org Sent: Monday, August 3, 2020 9:45 AM To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: Rhodes22-list Digest, Vol 4230, Issue 1 Send Rhodes22-list mailing list submissions to rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to rhodes22-list-request at rhodes22.org You can reach the person managing the list at rhodes22-list-owner at rhodes22.org When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of Rhodes22-list digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Re: mainsail problems (gramille) 2. Re: mainsail problems (gramille) 3. Re: Repair of Spider Cracks at Mast Step Tabernacle (Frederick Lange) 4. Re: mainsail problems (stan) 5. Re: mainsail problems (gramille) 6. Re: mainsail problems (Mark West) 7. Re: mainsail problems (Peter Nyberg) 8. Re: mainsail problems (cjlowe at sssnet.com) 9. Re: mainsail problems (gramille) 10. Reconnecting the Tabernacle Screws Following Sacrificial Failure (Chris on LBI) 11. Re: Reconnecting the Tabernacle Screws Following Sacrificial Failure (Mike Riter) 12. Re: Reconnecting the Tabernacle Screws Following Sacrificial Failure (Peter Nyberg) 13. Re: Reconnecting the Tabernacle Screws Following Sacrificial Failure (Michael D. Weisner) 14. Rudder Bolt Hole Enlarged (Gmorganflier) 15. Re: Reconnecting the Tabernacle Screws Following Sacrificial Failure (Graham Stewart) 16. Re: Rudder Bolt Hole Enlarged (Graham Stewart) 17. Re: Reconnecting the Tabernacle Screws Following Sacrificial Failure (Chris on LBI) 18. Re: Reconnecting the Tabernacle Screws Following Sacrificial Failure (ROGER PIHLAJA) 19. Re: Rudder Bolt Hole Enlarged (ROGER PIHLAJA) 20. Re: Rudder Bolt Hole Enlarged (Gmorganflier) 21. Re: mainsail problems (Lowe, Rob) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2020 08:35:34 -0700 (MST) From: gramille To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] mainsail problems Message-ID: <1596123334638-0.post at n5.nabble.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Thanks May Lou, Le's hope it is that simple! Graham -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2020 08:51:03 -0700 (MST) From: gramille To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] mainsail problems Message-ID: <1596124263780-0.post at n5.nabble.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Thanks Chris, you make a strong case for replacement! Graham -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2020 12:00:46 -0400 From: Frederick Lange To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Repair of Spider Cracks at Mast Step Tabernacle Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8" Yes, I had to have the whole wood mast step plate replaced along with most of the fiberglass. Regards, Rick Lange On Thu, Jul 30, 2020 at 10:52 AM Chris on LBI wrote: > Has anyone actually experienced the epoxy plugs pulling out as a result of > a > subsequent mast mishap? If so, did the plugs damage the fiberglass > surrounding the screw holes? If they did not damage the surrounding > fiberglass, I have to wonder why not. > > > > ----- > Long Beach Island > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > ------------------------------ Message: 4 Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2020 12:14:40 -0400 From: stan To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] mainsail problems Message-ID: <77ffb524-95b1-04a6-b4dc-e25ca5b731ba at generalboats.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed Graham P.,? For us both to be fair to all those who have, it is time to join the Coop. PS:? I see this is going to the List so I will add that for? anyone liking anything historical about the Rhodes, I am doing a piece on Inner mast furling that goes back to the Phil Rhodes years; it has a chuckle or two but its interesting part, at least for me, is discovering this industry's business plans mentality re this innovation. Apropos of the current thread on IMF, the problem is in the name, not the product.? We will cover that as well. My problem is time to get to all this.? The new ROC site for parts is doing well but I am having trouble remembering where I keep all those parts.?? Still looking for partnering but think I will shift the emphasis to Female partnering.? The deal gets squashed with male wannabes when they figure in the cost of the divorce. stan > On Jul 27, 2020, at 11:30 PM, gramille wrote: >> Hi Stan, >> It is a 2011 model that you refurbished for Scott Johnson of Knoxville >> ,Tennessee in 2015. I bought it from him last year and the mainsail worked >> okay although it did occasionally stick towards the top of the mast. >> This has gradually worsened despite my best attempts to furl it carefully. >> It is definitely more awkward on the upper setting. Lastly, there was very >> little wind on my last sail on Saturday when it again jammed and ripped as I >> was pulling it out! I did not have any real problems last year but it has >> gradually become more fussy this season! >> >> >> ------------------------------ Message: 5 Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2020 13:12:31 -0700 (MST) From: gramille To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] mainsail problems Message-ID: <1596226351689-0.post at n5.nabble.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii The mast is coming down soon and I will report back with what is discovered! I did wonder if I may have overtightened the rear stay causing or making worse the problem? That would perhaps explain the worsening of the problem this season! G -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ ------------------------------ Message: 6 Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2020 21:28:46 +0000 (UTC) From: Mark West To: "rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org" Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] mainsail problems Message-ID: <247043968.7192172.1596230926478 at mail.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 straight mast is best, last year working with Charles on show boats we found one of the end bushing screw backed out and was hanging up inside sail area of mast, note rotation of line and sail and # of wraps around shaft the line makes? ?Mark -----Original Message----- From: gramille To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Sent: Fri, Jul 31, 2020 4:12 pm Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] mainsail problems The mast is coming down soon and I will report back with what is discovered! I did wonder if I may have overtightened the rear stay causing or making worse the problem? That would perhaps explain the worsening of the problem this season! G -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ ------------------------------ Message: 7 Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2020 21:01:51 -0400 From: Peter Nyberg To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] mainsail problems Message-ID: <6E25F479-C21C-43C7-BBFB-6C91B21EDD30 at sunnybeeches.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 I seriously doubt that you could have tightened the rear stay enough to cause this problem. ?Peter > On Jul 31, 2020, at 4:12 PM, gramille wrote: > > The mast is coming down soon and I will report back with what is discovered! > I did wonder if I may have overtightened the rear stay causing or making > worse the problem? > That would perhaps explain the worsening of the problem this season! > G > > > > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ ------------------------------ Message: 8 Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2020 23:43:12 -0400 (EDT) From: cjlowe at sssnet.com To: "The Rhodes 22 Email List" Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] mainsail problems Message-ID: <61972.24.140.30.102.1596253392.squirrel at quickpop.sssnet.com> Content-Type: text/plain;charset=iso-8859-1 Well, since this came up, I'd noticed that since I loosened my back stay , I've had trouble furling my main sail. Its bunching up at the bottom. I will try tightening it back up and see wh > I seriously doubt that you could have tightened the rear stay enough to > cause this problem. > > ???Peter > >> On Jul 31, 2020, at 4:12 PM, gramille wrote: >> >> The mast is coming down soon and I will report back with what is >> discovered! >> I did wonder if I may have overtightened the rear stay causing or making >> worse the problem? >> That would perhaps explain the worsening of the problem this season! >> G >> >> >> >> -- >> Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > > ------------------------------ Message: 9 Date: Sat, 1 Aug 2020 07:43:21 -0700 (MST) From: gramille To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] mainsail problems Message-ID: <1596293001702-0.post at n5.nabble.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Interesting - any other opinions? G -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ ------------------------------ Message: 10 Date: Sun, 2 Aug 2020 16:39:30 -0700 (MST) From: Chris on LBI To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Reconnecting the Tabernacle Screws Following Sacrificial Failure Message-ID: <1596411570037-0.post at n5.nabble.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 This topic is a continuation of a different topic titled ?"Repair of Spider Cracks at Mast Step Tabernacle?. The subject matter of that topic quickly strayed from gelcoat repair to how to replace the tabernacle screws after they pull loose. I thought it would be good to highlight this subject matter with a new topic heading. I thank Graham Stewart, Rodger Pihlaja, Mike Riter, and Rick Lange all of whom weighed in on the original thread. Last week while lowering the mast, the three screws holding the tabernacle to the block above the cabin let loose when the mast was at an angle of about 45 degrees. A shroud had fouled and the resulting (unintended) forces pulled the screws out. In reading on this list/forum, I was relieved to learn that these screw connections were designed to fail to avoid more expensive damage to the plate and the cabin top. It also seems that the repair is very easy to accomplish. However, in asking advice regarding the repair and in doing some research, I'm undecided as to how the repair should be performed since I have conflicting information. I've started this new thread to focus specifically on reconnecting these three screws to the block below the tabernacle plate so that the sacrificial nature of the junction is preserved. The three screws on my boat are 3/16? stainless steel, 1? long, with 10 threads per inch. The mounting block below the tabernacle appears to be wood covered with fiberglass and gelcoat. The combination fiberglass and gelcoat appear to be about 1/4? thick. The stainless steel base of the tabernacle is 1/8? thick. The holes in the fiberglass are larger than the major diameter of the screws. Based on this information I estimate that about 5/8? of the screws were threaded into the wood block. I read somewhere on this list/forum that the block is typically pine. Using an online tool (https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/wood-screws-allowable-withdrawal-load-d_1815.html ) that calculates pullout force, I estimate that each of the three screws would pull out at about 70 pounds of upward force; 210 pounds total. I had planned to make the repair by filling the holes with epoxy and then drilling holes in the epoxy to receive the screws. Since there was some soft wood around the perimeter of the holes, I scraped it out as best I could, and noted that the new epoxy ?plug? would be larger in diameter than the holes in the fiberglass. That is, some of the epoxy plug would be underneath of the fiberglass. This led me to wonder at what force the plug would release from the surrounding wood because if it did release, it would transfer the load to the fiberglass above the plug. Apparently the way to estimate this force is to take the vertical surface area of the wood/epoxy plug and multiply it by the shear factor of a wood/epoxy joint (obviously an estimate). A few sources online use 800 psi as this shear factor. So using a 5/8? deep hole with a diameter of 5/16?, I get a pullout force of about 500 pounds per plug; 1500 pounds total. I assume that the pullout force of a screw from an epoxy plug is greater than 500 pounds but I can't find a way to estimate this. Although, if it were a steel pin (without threads), the shear factor would be estimated at 1600 psi. So with the threads the shear factor would be much great than this and thus the screw withdrawal force would be much greater than the plug withdrawal force. That is, the plug will pull out well before the screw pulls out of the plug. Unless of course it is a shorter screw. But without a way to calculate it, I would not know what length screw to use to achieve the desired pullout force. While a few days ago I was all set to start mixing up a batch of epoxy, now I'm not so sure. Using these calculations based on the assumptions indicated, the planned approach would change the original design in two very significant ways. First, the total pullout force would increase from 210 pounds to 1500 pounds. Second, with the epoxy repair, in the case of failure, the load would be transferred to the underside of the fiberglass which I assume the original design is intended to protect. That is, the original design sacrifices the wood/screw connection, the screws pull out, and the fiberglass is left unharmed. So now I am left contemplating four different options: Wood Slivers, Bigger Holes, New Holes, Shorter Screws Wood Slivers The idea would be to partially fill the holes with epoxy, and then pack the holes with wood slivers that would intentionally weaken the epoxy with the hope that the epoxy/screw junction fails before the wood/epoxy junction of the plug. That is, the screws would pull out without damage to the fiberglass. Obviously this pullout force can't really be calculated, but it seems like it should be less than the wood/epoxy junction of the plug, but there is some risk that the plug could pull out first and transfer the load to the fiberglass. One very important unknown to this approach is the quality of the wood/epoxy junction. If the wood surrounding the epoxy is weak, the plug may pull out of the hole before the screw pulls out of the plug. This would transfer the load to the fiberglass. So there are risks to this approach. Filling the hole with epoxy and encapsulating the slivers in epoxy should prevent water infiltration. Bigger Holes This idea is to drill larger holes in the fiberglass, so that if the epoxy plug were to pull out, it can without damaging the fiberglass. The holes would have to be sealed to prevent water infiltration, perhaps with gelcoat. The force to pull the plugs out is likely much greater than the original pullout force (1500 lbs vs. 210 lbs), but maybe this is not a bad thing; if a minor accident occurs (less than 1500 lbs), everything remains intact and I still go sailing that day. It would seem that this approach would protect the fiberglass as intended (although maybe a stainless steel rail gets bent or broken). New Holes The original holes could be filled with epoxy and abandoned. Three new holes would be drilled in the tabernacle base plate and the block, being sure to make holes in the fiberglass larger than the major diameter of the screws. This would closely replicate the original design. Care would have to be taken to prevent water infiltration. It would be interesting to get confirmation from Stan that the factory drills holds in the fiberglass that are larger than the screw diameter. Shorter Screws The holes would be filled with epoxy, drilled, and new, shorter screws threaded into the epoxy plug. The problem with this approach is that I don't have a way to calculate the pullout force of the screw from the epoxy. Since I am a novice at repairs of this sort, I again look to the list/forum for advice. I suspect that in a case like this, group-instinct trumps calculations. ----- Long Beach Island -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ ------------------------------ Message: 11 Date: Sun, 2 Aug 2020 21:20:37 -0400 From: Mike Riter To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Reconnecting the Tabernacle Screws Following Sacrificial Failure Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8" You have really, really thought this through Chris! Looking through your list of possible choices, I'm throwing my vote in the new holes category. Fill the existing holes with epoxy, including the spider web cracks, sand everything smooth and drill new holes. Assuming a good core, the new holes would represent the same forces of the original mounting. Michael Riter SV Emma B On Sun, Aug 2, 2020 at 7:39 PM Chris on LBI wrote: > This topic is a continuation of a different topic titled ?"Repair of Spider > Cracks at Mast Step Tabernacle?. The subject matter of that topic quickly > strayed from gelcoat repair to how to replace the tabernacle screws after > they pull loose. I thought it would be good to highlight this subject > matter > with a new topic heading. I thank Graham Stewart, Rodger Pihlaja, Mike > Riter, and Rick Lange all of whom weighed in on the original thread. > > Last week while lowering the mast, the three screws holding the tabernacle > to the block above the cabin let loose when the mast was at an angle of > about 45 degrees. A shroud had fouled and the resulting (unintended) forces > pulled the screws out. In reading on this list/forum, I was relieved to > learn that these screw connections were designed to fail to avoid more > expensive damage to the plate and the cabin top. It also seems that the > repair is very easy to accomplish. However, in asking advice regarding the > repair and in doing some research, I'm undecided as to how the repair > should > be performed since I have conflicting information. I've started this new > thread to focus specifically on reconnecting these three screws to the > block > below the tabernacle plate so that the sacrificial nature of the junction > is > preserved. > > The three screws on my boat are 3/16? stainless steel, 1? long, with 10 > threads per inch. The mounting block below the tabernacle appears to be > wood > covered with fiberglass and gelcoat. The combination fiberglass and gelcoat > appear to be about 1/4? thick. The stainless steel base of the tabernacle > is > 1/8? thick. The holes in the fiberglass are larger than the major diameter > of the screws. Based on this information I estimate that about 5/8? of the > screws were threaded into the wood block. I read somewhere on this > list/forum that the block is typically pine. Using an online tool > > ( > https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/wood-screws-allowable-withdrawal-load-d_1815.html > ) that calculates pullout force, I estimate that each of the three screws > would pull out at about 70 pounds of upward force; 210 pounds total. > > I had planned to make the repair by filling the holes with epoxy and then > drilling holes in the epoxy to receive the screws. Since there was some > soft > wood around the perimeter of the holes, I scraped it out as best I could, > and noted that the new epoxy ?plug? would be larger in diameter than the > holes in the fiberglass. That is, some of the epoxy plug would be > underneath of the fiberglass. This led me to wonder at what force the plug > would release from the surrounding wood because if it did release, it would > transfer the load to the fiberglass above the plug. Apparently the way to > estimate this force is to take the vertical surface area of the wood/epoxy > plug and multiply it by the shear factor of a wood/epoxy joint (obviously > an > estimate). A few sources online use 800 psi as this shear factor. So using > a > 5/8? deep hole with a diameter of 5/16?, I get a pullout force of about 500 > pounds per plug; 1500 pounds total. > > I assume that the pullout force of a screw from an epoxy plug is greater > than 500 pounds but I can't find a way to estimate this. Although, if it > were a steel pin (without threads), the shear factor would be estimated at > 1600 psi. So with the threads the shear factor would be much great than > this > and thus the screw withdrawal force would be much greater than the plug > withdrawal force. That is, the plug will pull out well before the screw > pulls out of the plug. Unless of course it is a shorter screw. But without > a > way to calculate it, I would not know what length screw to use to achieve > the desired pullout force. > > While a few days ago I was all set to start mixing up a batch of epoxy, now > I'm not so sure. Using these calculations based on the assumptions > indicated, the planned approach would change the original design in two > very > significant ways. First, the total pullout force would increase from 210 > pounds to 1500 pounds. Second, with the epoxy repair, in the case of > failure, the load would be transferred to the underside of the fiberglass > which I assume the original design is intended to protect. That is, the > original design sacrifices the wood/screw connection, the screws pull out, > and the fiberglass is left unharmed. > > So now I am left contemplating four different options: Wood Slivers, Bigger > Holes, New Holes, Shorter Screws > > Wood Slivers > The idea would be to partially fill the holes with epoxy, and then pack the > holes with wood slivers that would intentionally weaken the epoxy with the > hope that the epoxy/screw junction fails before the wood/epoxy junction of > the plug. That is, the screws would pull out without damage to the > fiberglass. Obviously this pullout force can't really be calculated, but it > seems like it should be less than the wood/epoxy junction of the plug, but > there is some risk that the plug could pull out first and transfer the load > to the fiberglass. One very important unknown to this approach is the > quality of the wood/epoxy junction. If the wood surrounding the epoxy is > weak, the plug may pull out of the hole before the screw pulls out of the > plug. This would transfer the load to the fiberglass. So there are risks to > this approach. Filling the hole with epoxy and encapsulating the slivers in > epoxy should prevent water infiltration. > > Bigger Holes > This idea is to drill larger holes in the fiberglass, so that if the epoxy > plug were to pull out, it can without damaging the fiberglass. The holes > would have to be sealed to prevent water infiltration, perhaps with > gelcoat. > The force to pull the plugs out is likely much greater than the original > pullout force (1500 lbs vs. 210 lbs), but maybe this is not a bad thing; if > a minor accident occurs (less than 1500 lbs), everything remains intact and > I still go sailing that day. It would seem that this approach would protect > the fiberglass as intended (although maybe a stainless steel rail gets bent > or broken). > > New Holes > The original holes could be filled with epoxy and abandoned. Three new > holes > would be drilled in the tabernacle base plate and the block, being sure to > make holes in the fiberglass larger than the major diameter of the screws. > This would closely replicate the original design. Care would have to be > taken to prevent water infiltration. It would be interesting to get > confirmation from Stan that the factory drills holds in the fiberglass that > are larger than the screw diameter. > > Shorter Screws > The holes would be filled with epoxy, drilled, and new, shorter screws > threaded into the epoxy plug. The problem with this approach is that I > don't > have a way to calculate the pullout force of the screw from the epoxy. > > Since I am a novice at repairs of this sort, I again look to the list/forum > for advice. I suspect that in a case like this, group-instinct trumps > calculations. > > > > ----- > Long Beach Island > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > ------------------------------ Message: 12 Date: Sun, 2 Aug 2020 21:33:29 -0400 From: Peter Nyberg To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Reconnecting the Tabernacle Screws Following Sacrificial Failure Message-ID: <80E5FDB0-B569-4C8A-831C-4A515A2BFDCD at sunnybeeches.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 In my opinion, the most import thing is to prevent water intrusion, everything else is pretty easy to repair. You seem to believe that damage to the fiberglass skin would be difficult to deal with, but I don?t believe that?s the case. Given the options you outline, I?d go with the ?bigger holes? approach. Peter Nyberg Coventry, CT s/v Silverheels (1988/2016) > On Aug 2, 2020, at 7:39 PM, Chris on LBI wrote: > > This topic is a continuation of a different topic titled ?"Repair of Spider > Cracks at Mast Step Tabernacle?. The subject matter of that topic quickly > strayed from gelcoat repair to how to replace the tabernacle screws after > they pull loose. I thought it would be good to highlight this subject matter > with a new topic heading. I thank Graham Stewart, Rodger Pihlaja, Mike > Riter, and Rick Lange all of whom weighed in on the original thread. > > Last week while lowering the mast, the three screws holding the tabernacle > to the block above the cabin let loose when the mast was at an angle of > about 45 degrees. A shroud had fouled and the resulting (unintended) forces > pulled the screws out. In reading on this list/forum, I was relieved to > learn that these screw connections were designed to fail to avoid more > expensive damage to the plate and the cabin top. It also seems that the > repair is very easy to accomplish. However, in asking advice regarding the > repair and in doing some research, I'm undecided as to how the repair should > be performed since I have conflicting information. I've started this new > thread to focus specifically on reconnecting these three screws to the block > below the tabernacle plate so that the sacrificial nature of the junction is > preserved. > > The three screws on my boat are 3/16? stainless steel, 1? long, with 10 > threads per inch. The mounting block below the tabernacle appears to be wood > covered with fiberglass and gelcoat. The combination fiberglass and gelcoat > appear to be about 1/4? thick. The stainless steel base of the tabernacle is > 1/8? thick. The holes in the fiberglass are larger than the major diameter > of the screws. Based on this information I estimate that about 5/8? of the > screws were threaded into the wood block. I read somewhere on this > list/forum that the block is typically pine. Using an online tool > > (https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/wood-screws-allowable-withdrawal-load-d_1815.html > ) that calculates pullout force, I estimate that each of the three screws > would pull out at about 70 pounds of upward force; 210 pounds total. > > I had planned to make the repair by filling the holes with epoxy and then > drilling holes in the epoxy to receive the screws. Since there was some soft > wood around the perimeter of the holes, I scraped it out as best I could, > and noted that the new epoxy ?plug? would be larger in diameter than the > holes in the fiberglass. That is, some of the epoxy plug would be > underneath of the fiberglass. This led me to wonder at what force the plug > would release from the surrounding wood because if it did release, it would > transfer the load to the fiberglass above the plug. Apparently the way to > estimate this force is to take the vertical surface area of the wood/epoxy > plug and multiply it by the shear factor of a wood/epoxy joint (obviously an > estimate). A few sources online use 800 psi as this shear factor. So using a > 5/8? deep hole with a diameter of 5/16?, I get a pullout force of about 500 > pounds per plug; 1500 pounds total. > > I assume that the pullout force of a screw from an epoxy plug is greater > than 500 pounds but I can't find a way to estimate this. Although, if it > were a steel pin (without threads), the shear factor would be estimated at > 1600 psi. So with the threads the shear factor would be much great than this > and thus the screw withdrawal force would be much greater than the plug > withdrawal force. That is, the plug will pull out well before the screw > pulls out of the plug. Unless of course it is a shorter screw. But without a > way to calculate it, I would not know what length screw to use to achieve > the desired pullout force. > > While a few days ago I was all set to start mixing up a batch of epoxy, now > I'm not so sure. Using these calculations based on the assumptions > indicated, the planned approach would change the original design in two very > significant ways. First, the total pullout force would increase from 210 > pounds to 1500 pounds. Second, with the epoxy repair, in the case of > failure, the load would be transferred to the underside of the fiberglass > which I assume the original design is intended to protect. That is, the > original design sacrifices the wood/screw connection, the screws pull out, > and the fiberglass is left unharmed. > > So now I am left contemplating four different options: Wood Slivers, Bigger > Holes, New Holes, Shorter Screws > > Wood Slivers > The idea would be to partially fill the holes with epoxy, and then pack the > holes with wood slivers that would intentionally weaken the epoxy with the > hope that the epoxy/screw junction fails before the wood/epoxy junction of > the plug. That is, the screws would pull out without damage to the > fiberglass. Obviously this pullout force can't really be calculated, but it > seems like it should be less than the wood/epoxy junction of the plug, but > there is some risk that the plug could pull out first and transfer the load > to the fiberglass. One very important unknown to this approach is the > quality of the wood/epoxy junction. If the wood surrounding the epoxy is > weak, the plug may pull out of the hole before the screw pulls out of the > plug. This would transfer the load to the fiberglass. So there are risks to > this approach. Filling the hole with epoxy and encapsulating the slivers in > epoxy should prevent water infiltration. > > Bigger Holes > This idea is to drill larger holes in the fiberglass, so that if the epoxy > plug were to pull out, it can without damaging the fiberglass. The holes > would have to be sealed to prevent water infiltration, perhaps with gelcoat. > The force to pull the plugs out is likely much greater than the original > pullout force (1500 lbs vs. 210 lbs), but maybe this is not a bad thing; if > a minor accident occurs (less than 1500 lbs), everything remains intact and > I still go sailing that day. It would seem that this approach would protect > the fiberglass as intended (although maybe a stainless steel rail gets bent > or broken). > > New Holes > The original holes could be filled with epoxy and abandoned. Three new holes > would be drilled in the tabernacle base plate and the block, being sure to > make holes in the fiberglass larger than the major diameter of the screws. > This would closely replicate the original design. Care would have to be > taken to prevent water infiltration. It would be interesting to get > confirmation from Stan that the factory drills holds in the fiberglass that > are larger than the screw diameter. > > Shorter Screws > The holes would be filled with epoxy, drilled, and new, shorter screws > threaded into the epoxy plug. The problem with this approach is that I don't > have a way to calculate the pullout force of the screw from the epoxy. > > Since I am a novice at repairs of this sort, I again look to the list/forum > for advice. I suspect that in a case like this, group-instinct trumps > calculations. > > > > ----- > Long Beach Island > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ ------------------------------ Message: 13 Date: Sun, 02 Aug 2020 21:52:22 -0400 From: "Michael D. Weisner" To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Reconnecting the Tabernacle Screws Following Sacrificial Failure Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 Chris,I understand your issue of pulling out the entire epoxy plug and damaging the fiberglass over the epoxy that has flowed outside of the original hole where you removed damaged wood.Can you make a wood plug that is the diameter of the hole, made of the same wood used in the tabernacle structure, preserving the correct grain? If you can, why not set this wood plug into the epoxy and set the screw into the wood plug? You will have replicated the original structure and release properties for the screw. You shouldn't need to worry about the epoxy pulling out if the screw releases first.? ?Mike? ?s/v Wind Lass ('91)? ?Nissequogue, NY -------- Original message --------From: Chris on LBI Date: 8/2/20 7:39 PM (GMT-05:00) To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Reconnecting the Tabernacle Screws Following Sacrificial Failure This topic is a continuation of a different topic titled ?"Repair of SpiderCracks at Mast Step Tabernacle?. The subject matter of that topic quicklystrayed from gelcoat repair to how to replace the tabernacle screws afterthey pull loose. I thought it would be good to highlight this subject matterwith a new topic heading. I thank Graham Stewart, Rodger Pihlaja, MikeRiter, and Rick Lange all of whom weighed in on the original thread.Last week while lowering the mast, the three screws holding the tabernacleto the block above the cabin let loose when the mast was at an angle ofabout 45 degrees. A shroud had fouled and the resulting (unintended) forcespulled the screws out. In reading on this list/forum, I was relieved tolearn that these screw connections were designed to fail to avoid moreexpensive damage to the plate and the cabin top. It also seems that therepair is very easy to accomplish. However, in asking advice regarding therepair and in doing some re search, I'm undecided as to how the repair shouldbe performed since I have conflicting information. I've started this newthread to focus specifically on reconnecting these three screws to the blockbelow the tabernacle plate so that the sacrificial nature of the junction ispreserved.The three screws on my boat are 3/16? stainless steel, 1? long, with 10threads per inch. The mounting block below the tabernacle appears to be woodcovered with fiberglass and gelcoat. The combination fiberglass and gelcoatappear to be about 1/4? thick. The stainless steel base of the tabernacle is1/8? thick. The holes in the fiberglass are larger than the major diameterof the screws.? Based on this information I estimate that about 5/8? of thescrews were threaded into the wood block. I read somewhere on thislist/forum that the block is typically pine. Using an online tool (https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/wood-screws-allowable-withdrawal-load-d_1815.html) that calculates pullout force, I estimat e that each of the three screwswould pull out at about 70 pounds of upward force; 210 pounds total.I had planned to make the repair by filling the holes with epoxy and thendrilling holes in the epoxy to receive the screws. Since there was some softwood around the perimeter of the holes, I scraped it out as best I could,and noted that the new epoxy ?plug? would be larger in diameter than theholes in the fiberglass.? That is, some of the epoxy plug would beunderneath of the fiberglass. This led me to wonder at what force the plugwould release from the surrounding wood because if it did release, it wouldtransfer the load to the fiberglass above the plug. Apparently the way toestimate this force is to take the vertical surface area of the wood/epoxyplug and multiply it by the shear factor of a wood/epoxy joint (obviously anestimate). A few sources online use 800 psi as this shear factor. So using a5/8? deep hole with a diameter of 5/16?, I get a pullout force of about 500pounds per plug; 1500 pounds total. I assume that the pullout force of a screw from an epoxy plug is greaterthan 500 pounds but I can't find a way to estimate this. Although, if itwere a steel pin (without threads), the shear factor would be estimated at1600 psi. So with the threads the shear factor would be much great than thisand thus the screw withdrawal force would be much greater than the plugwithdrawal force. That is, the plug will pull out well before the screwpulls out of the plug. Unless of course it is a shorter screw. But without away to calculate it, I would not know what length screw to use to achievethe desired pullout force.While a few days ago I was all set to start mixing up a batch of epoxy, nowI'm not so sure. Using these calculations based on the assumptionsindicated, the planned approach would change the original design in two verysignificant ways. First, the total pullout force would increase from 210pounds to 1500 pounds. Second, with the epoxy repair, in the case offailure, the load would be transferred to the underside of the fiberglasswhich I assume the original design is intended to protect. That is, theoriginal design sacrifices the wood/screw connection, the screws pull out,and the fiberglass is left unharmed.So now I am left contemplating four different options: Wood Slivers, BiggerHoles, New Holes, Shorter ScrewsWood SliversThe idea would be to partially fill the holes with epoxy, and then pack theholes with wood slivers that would intentionally weaken the epoxy with thehope that the epoxy/screw junction fails before the wood/epoxy junction ofthe plug. That is, the screws would pull out without damage to thefiberglass. Obviously this pullout force can't really be calculated, but itseems like it should be less than the wood/epoxy junction of the plug, butthere is some risk that the plug could pull out first and transfer the loadto the fiberglass.? One very important unknown to this approach is thequality of the wood/epoxy junction. If the wood surrounding the epoxy isweak, the plug may pull out of the hole before the screw pulls out of theplug. This would transfer the load to the fiberglass. So there are risks tothis approach. Filling the hole with epoxy and encapsulating the slivers inepoxy should prevent water infiltration.Bigger HolesThis idea is to drill larger holes in the fiberglass, so that if the epoxyplug were to pull out, it can without damaging the fiberglass. The holeswould have to be sealed to prevent water infiltration, perhaps with gelcoat.The force to pull the plugs out is likely much greater than the originalpullout force (1500 lbs vs. 210 lbs), but maybe this is not a bad thing; ifa minor accident occurs (less than 1500 lbs), everything remains intact andI still go sailing that day. It would seem that this approach would protectthe fiberglass as intended (although maybe a stainless steel rail gets bentor broken).New HolesThe original holes could be filled with epoxy and aba ndoned. Three new holeswould be drilled in the tabernacle base plate and the block, being sure tomake holes in the fiberglass larger than the major diameter of the screws.This would closely replicate the original design. Care would have to betaken to prevent water infiltration. It would be interesting to getconfirmation from Stan that the factory drills holds in the fiberglass thatare larger than the screw diameter.Shorter ScrewsThe holes would be filled with epoxy, drilled, and new, shorter screwsthreaded into the epoxy plug. The problem with this approach is that I don'thave a way to calculate the pullout force of the screw from the epoxy. Since I am a novice at repairs of this sort, I again look to the list/forumfor advice. I suspect that in a case like this, group-instinct trumpscalculations.-----Long Beach Island--Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ ------------------------------ Message: 14 Date: Sun, 2 Aug 2020 18:55:30 -0700 (MST) From: Gmorganflier To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Rudder Bolt Hole Enlarged Message-ID: <1596419730473-0.post at n5.nabble.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 I took my rudder and rudder cheeks off today in preparation to paint them. The hole in the rudder where the pivot bolt goes through is quite enlarged....probably twice the diameter of the bolt. I noticed the plywood core where the hole goes through was wet. I feared maybe my entire rudder was waterlogged, but after turning the rudder upside down and leaving it in the sun, the hole appears to be drying up. There are no cracks or damaged areas which would allow water intrusion. The bolt hole seems to be the only way water is getting in and we did have rain yesterday. My question to those who are so much more experienced than me in boating repairs....what should I do to stop water from getting in the rudder through this bolt hole. Maybe enlarge the hole even more and epoxy some sort of bushing for the bolt to go through? I?m open for suggestions. Thanks, George Morgan 1986 R22 S/V Knotty Lady -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ ------------------------------ Message: 15 Date: Sun, 2 Aug 2020 22:06:49 -0400 From: "Graham Stewart" To: "'The Rhodes 22 Email List'" Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Reconnecting the Tabernacle Screws Following Sacrificial Failure Message-ID: <034901d6693a$c1adf0b0$4509d210$@ca> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8" Your calculations are impressive but in the end you probably need to go with what you are most comfortable. The discussion has been interesting to me and I now think I would do it differently than I did last time when I drilled out the hole, filled with epoxy and then drilled new holes. Option 1 to use slivers and epoxy and option 2 to drill larger holes are not mutually exclusive as I understand them and I think that combination is what I would go with. In that case I would want to maximize the proportion of wood slivers to epoxy. The epoxy would be only sufficient to seal the core and hold the slivers together. Not having the fiberglass overhanging the hole would likely reduce the damage to the skin should the plug pull out. The weakest link, I would think, would be the interface between the plug and the core material. Unless the core is damaged and the epoxy seeps into crevices I would think that the force required to pull the plug out would not be much greater than the force required to pull a screw out of solid wood under fiberglass. That is what I think but I could easily be entirely wrong. In this case you want a properly sealed but relatively weak bond. Using the slivers tightly packed strikes me as the best way to achieve this balance. I don't know how you could abandon the old holes and drill new ones without moving the base. I would not do that. When I rebuilt my deck I removed the mast foot, repaired and then painted the step along with the entire deck. I did not make careful note of exactly where the plate was attached thinking that is was centered on the step. Nope, it has to placed exactly in the right place or you will not be able to attach the slider for the pop top to raise and descend properly. I ended up doing this install three times before I got it right. Each time I had to raise and then lower the mast. After spending 7 years restoring the boat you can imagine how frustrating that was to be stopped at the moment that I would be able to raise the sails and go. The screws you have are, as I recall, much shorter than mine but if these are what Stan used I would stick with them. Good luck, Graham Stewart gstewart8 at cogeco.ca -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Chris on LBI Sent: Sunday, August 2, 2020 7:40 PM To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Reconnecting the Tabernacle Screws Following Sacrificial Failure This topic is a continuation of a different topic titled ?"Repair of Spider Cracks at Mast Step Tabernacle?. The subject matter of that topic quickly strayed from gelcoat repair to how to replace the tabernacle screws after they pull loose. I thought it would be good to highlight this subject matter with a new topic heading. I thank Graham Stewart, Rodger Pihlaja, Mike Riter, and Rick Lange all of whom weighed in on the original thread. Last week while lowering the mast, the three screws holding the tabernacle to the block above the cabin let loose when the mast was at an angle of about 45 degrees. A shroud had fouled and the resulting (unintended) forces pulled the screws out. In reading on this list/forum, I was relieved to learn that these screw connections were designed to fail to avoid more expensive damage to the plate and the cabin top. It also seems that the repair is very easy to accomplish. However, in asking advice regarding the repair and in doing some research, I'm undecided as to how the repair should be performed since I have conflicting information. I've started this new thread to focus specifically on reconnecting these three screws to the block below the tabernacle plate so that the sacrificial nature of the junction is preserved. The three screws on my boat are 3/16? stainless steel, 1? long, with 10 threads per inch. The mounting block below the tabernacle appears to be wood covered with fiberglass and gelcoat. The combination fiberglass and gelcoat appear to be about 1/4? thick. The stainless steel base of the tabernacle is 1/8? thick. The holes in the fiberglass are larger than the major diameter of the screws. Based on this information I estimate that about 5/8? of the screws were threaded into the wood block. I read somewhere on this list/forum that the block is typically pine. Using an online tool (https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/wood-screws-allowable-withdrawal-load-d_1815.html ) that calculates pullout force, I estimate that each of the three screws would pull out at about 70 pounds of upward force; 210 pounds total. I had planned to make the repair by filling the holes with epoxy and then drilling holes in the epoxy to receive the screws. Since there was some soft wood around the perimeter of the holes, I scraped it out as best I could, and noted that the new epoxy ?plug? would be larger in diameter than the holes in the fiberglass. That is, some of the epoxy plug would be underneath of the fiberglass. This led me to wonder at what force the plug would release from the surrounding wood because if it did release, it would transfer the load to the fiberglass above the plug. Apparently the way to estimate this force is to take the vertical surface area of the wood/epoxy plug and multiply it by the shear factor of a wood/epoxy joint (obviously an estimate). A few sources online use 800 psi as this shear factor. So using a 5/8? deep hole with a diameter of 5/16?, I get a pullout force of about 500 pounds per plug; 1500 pounds total. I assume that the pullout force of a screw from an epoxy plug is greater than 500 pounds but I can't find a way to estimate this. Although, if it were a steel pin (without threads), the shear factor would be estimated at 1600 psi. So with the threads the shear factor would be much great than this and thus the screw withdrawal force would be much greater than the plug withdrawal force. That is, the plug will pull out well before the screw pulls out of the plug. Unless of course it is a shorter screw. But without a way to calculate it, I would not know what length screw to use to achieve the desired pullout force. While a few days ago I was all set to start mixing up a batch of epoxy, now I'm not so sure. Using these calculations based on the assumptions indicated, the planned approach would change the original design in two very significant ways. First, the total pullout force would increase from 210 pounds to 1500 pounds. Second, with the epoxy repair, in the case of failure, the load would be transferred to the underside of the fiberglass which I assume the original design is intended to protect. That is, the original design sacrifices the wood/screw connection, the screws pull out, and the fiberglass is left unharmed. So now I am left contemplating four different options: Wood Slivers, Bigger Holes, New Holes, Shorter Screws Wood Slivers The idea would be to partially fill the holes with epoxy, and then pack the holes with wood slivers that would intentionally weaken the epoxy with the hope that the epoxy/screw junction fails before the wood/epoxy junction of the plug. That is, the screws would pull out without damage to the fiberglass. Obviously this pullout force can't really be calculated, but it seems like it should be less than the wood/epoxy junction of the plug, but there is some risk that the plug could pull out first and transfer the load to the fiberglass. One very important unknown to this approach is the quality of the wood/epoxy junction. If the wood surrounding the epoxy is weak, the plug may pull out of the hole before the screw pulls out of the plug. This would transfer the load to the fiberglass. So there are risks to this approach. Filling the hole with epoxy and encapsulating the slivers in epoxy should prevent water infiltration. Bigger Holes This idea is to drill larger holes in the fiberglass, so that if the epoxy plug were to pull out, it can without damaging the fiberglass. The holes would have to be sealed to prevent water infiltration, perhaps with gelcoat. The force to pull the plugs out is likely much greater than the original pullout force (1500 lbs vs. 210 lbs), but maybe this is not a bad thing; if a minor accident occurs (less than 1500 lbs), everything remains intact and I still go sailing that day. It would seem that this approach would protect the fiberglass as intended (although maybe a stainless steel rail gets bent or broken). New Holes The original holes could be filled with epoxy and abandoned. Three new holes would be drilled in the tabernacle base plate and the block, being sure to make holes in the fiberglass larger than the major diameter of the screws. This would closely replicate the original design. Care would have to be taken to prevent water infiltration. It would be interesting to get confirmation from Stan that the factory drills holds in the fiberglass that are larger than the screw diameter. Shorter Screws The holes would be filled with epoxy, drilled, and new, shorter screws threaded into the epoxy plug. The problem with this approach is that I don't have a way to calculate the pullout force of the screw from the epoxy. Since I am a novice at repairs of this sort, I again look to the list/forum for advice. I suspect that in a case like this, group-instinct trumps calculations. ----- Long Beach Island -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ ------------------------------ Message: 16 Date: Sun, 2 Aug 2020 22:27:40 -0400 From: "Graham Stewart" To: "'The Rhodes 22 Email List'" Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Rudder Bolt Hole Enlarged Message-ID: <034f01d6693d$ac08fcc0$041af640$@ca> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8" George: Might you epoxy in a tube, preferably stainless steel but aluminum might do, that has an opening that is the proper diameter. Graham Stewart Agile, Rodes 22, 1976 Kingston Ontario -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Gmorganflier Sent: Sunday, August 2, 2020 9:56 PM To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Rudder Bolt Hole Enlarged I took my rudder and rudder cheeks off today in preparation to paint them. The hole in the rudder where the pivot bolt goes through is quite enlarged....probably twice the diameter of the bolt. I noticed the plywood core where the hole goes through was wet. I feared maybe my entire rudder was waterlogged, but after turning the rudder upside down and leaving it in the sun, the hole appears to be drying up. There are no cracks or damaged areas which would allow water intrusion. The bolt hole seems to be the only way water is getting in and we did have rain yesterday. My question to those who are so much more experienced than me in boating repairs....what should I do to stop water from getting in the rudder through this bolt hole. Maybe enlarge the hole even more and epoxy some sort of bushing for the bolt to go through? I?m open for suggestions. Thanks, George Morgan 1986 R22 S/V Knotty Lady -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ ------------------------------ Message: 17 Date: Mon, 3 Aug 2020 04:31:55 -0700 (MST) From: Chris on LBI To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Reconnecting the Tabernacle Screws Following Sacrificial Failure Message-ID: <1596454315934-0.post at n5.nabble.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Graham, In thinking about drilling new holes, I was thinking that I would also drill new holes in the tabernacle base plate so the location of the base plate would not move. But your point about hole location raises an interesting additional problem for me that I had not considered. Each of the three existing holes in the mounting block below the base plate is now oblong, sort of like two holes slightly offset from one another in both the x and y axis. So I'll have to decide which of the two possible centers is the one I should use when remounting the tabernacle base plate. That is an interesting observation that Wood Slivers and Larger Holes are not mutually exclusive. I feel your pain relocating the base plate 3 times. When you did so, how did you repair the holes that were not located correctly? Also, do your screws bite into the fiberglass as well as the wood block underneath? Thanks, Chris ----- Long Beach Island -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ ------------------------------ Message: 18 Date: Mon, 3 Aug 2020 12:26:29 +0000 From: ROGER PIHLAJA To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Reconnecting the Tabernacle Screws Following Sacrificial Failure Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Chris, For the most part, your calculations are reasonable and the results are in the right ballpark, with one exception. I must push back on your assumption that the 3 screws are loaded evenly and therefore the total failure load is 3X the individual failure load. When the mast stepping/unstepping goes properly, this assumption might be OK. But, the very notion of something going wrong during the mast stepping/instepping implies these 3 screws are not evenly loaded. I would hypothesize a failure mechanism wherein an uneven load causes first one screw to fail, which overloads another, and then the third to fail in a cascading sequence. A more conservative design approach would call for each screw to be capable of supporting the entire load. Roger Pihlaja S/V Dynamic Equilibrium Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Graham Stewart Sent: Sunday, August 2, 2020 10:06 PM To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Reconnecting the Tabernacle Screws Following Sacrificial Failure Your calculations are impressive but in the end you probably need to go with what you are most comfortable. The discussion has been interesting to me and I now think I would do it differently than I did last time when I drilled out the hole, filled with epoxy and then drilled new holes. Option 1 to use slivers and epoxy and option 2 to drill larger holes are not mutually exclusive as I understand them and I think that combination is what I would go with. In that case I would want to maximize the proportion of wood slivers to epoxy. The epoxy would be only sufficient to seal the core and hold the slivers together. Not having the fiberglass overhanging the hole would likely reduce the damage to the skin should the plug pull out. The weakest link, I would think, would be the interface between the plug and the core material. Unless the core is damaged and the epoxy seeps into crevices I would think that the force required to pull the plug out would not be much greater than the force required to pull a screw out of solid wood under fiberglass. That is what I think but I could easily be entirely wrong. In this case you want a properly sealed but relatively weak bond. Using the slivers tightly packed strikes me as the best way to achieve this balance. I don't know how you could abandon the old holes and drill new ones without moving the base. I would not do that. When I rebuilt my deck I removed the mast foot, repaired and then painted the step along with the entire deck. I did not make careful note of exactly where the plate was attached thinking that is was centered on the step. Nope, it has to placed exactly in the right place or you will not be able to attach the slider for the pop top to raise and descend properly. I ended up doing this install three times before I got it right. Each time I had to raise and then lower the mast. After spending 7 years restoring the boat you can imagine how frustrating that was to be stopped at the moment that I would be able to raise the sails and go. The screws you have are, as I recall, much shorter than mine but if these are what Stan used I would stick with them. Good luck, Graham Stewart gstewart8 at cogeco.ca -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Chris on LBI Sent: Sunday, August 2, 2020 7:40 PM To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Reconnecting the Tabernacle Screws Following Sacrificial Failure This topic is a continuation of a different topic titled ?"Repair of Spider Cracks at Mast Step Tabernacle?. The subject matter of that topic quickly strayed from gelcoat repair to how to replace the tabernacle screws after they pull loose. I thought it would be good to highlight this subject matter with a new topic heading. I thank Graham Stewart, Rodger Pihlaja, Mike Riter, and Rick Lange all of whom weighed in on the original thread. Last week while lowering the mast, the three screws holding the tabernacle to the block above the cabin let loose when the mast was at an angle of about 45 degrees. A shroud had fouled and the resulting (unintended) forces pulled the screws out. In reading on this list/forum, I was relieved to learn that these screw connections were designed to fail to avoid more expensive damage to the plate and the cabin top. It also seems that the repair is very easy to accomplish. However, in asking advice regarding the repair and in doing some research, I'm undecided as to how the repair should be performed since I have conflicting information. I've started this new thread to focus specifically on reconnecting these three screws to the block below the tabernacle plate so that the sacrificial nature of the junction is preserved. The three screws on my boat are 3/16? stainless steel, 1? long, with 10 threads per inch. The mounting block below the tabernacle appears to be wood covered with fiberglass and gelcoat. The combination fiberglass and gelcoat appear to be about 1/4? thick. The stainless steel base of the tabernacle is 1/8? thick. The holes in the fiberglass are larger than the major diameter of the screws. Based on this information I estimate that about 5/8? of the screws were threaded into the wood block. I read somewhere on this list/forum that the block is typically pine. Using an online tool (https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/wood-screws-allowable-withdrawal-load-d_1815.html ) that calculates pullout force, I estimate that each of the three screws would pull out at about 70 pounds of upward force; 210 pounds total. I had planned to make the repair by filling the holes with epoxy and then drilling holes in the epoxy to receive the screws. Since there was some soft wood around the perimeter of the holes, I scraped it out as best I could, and noted that the new epoxy ?plug? would be larger in diameter than the holes in the fiberglass. That is, some of the epoxy plug would be underneath of the fiberglass. This led me to wonder at what force the plug would release from the surrounding wood because if it did release, it would transfer the load to the fiberglass above the plug. Apparently the way to estimate this force is to take the vertical surface area of the wood/epoxy plug and multiply it by the shear factor of a wood/epoxy joint (obviously an estimate). A few sources online use 800 psi as this shear factor. So using a 5/8? deep hole with a diameter of 5/16?, I get a pullout force of about 500 pounds per plug; 1500 pounds total. I assume that the pullout force of a screw from an epoxy plug is greater than 500 pounds but I can't find a way to estimate this. Although, if it were a steel pin (without threads), the shear factor would be estimated at 1600 psi. So with the threads the shear factor would be much great than this and thus the screw withdrawal force would be much greater than the plug withdrawal force. That is, the plug will pull out well before the screw pulls out of the plug. Unless of course it is a shorter screw. But without a way to calculate it, I would not know what length screw to use to achieve the desired pullout force. While a few days ago I was all set to start mixing up a batch of epoxy, now I'm not so sure. Using these calculations based on the assumptions indicated, the planned approach would change the original design in two very significant ways. First, the total pullout force would increase from 210 pounds to 1500 pounds. Second, with the epoxy repair, in the case of failure, the load would be transferred to the underside of the fiberglass which I assume the original design is intended to protect. That is, the original design sacrifices the wood/screw connection, the screws pull out, and the fiberglass is left unharmed. So now I am left contemplating four different options: Wood Slivers, Bigger Holes, New Holes, Shorter Screws Wood Slivers The idea would be to partially fill the holes with epoxy, and then pack the holes with wood slivers that would intentionally weaken the epoxy with the hope that the epoxy/screw junction fails before the wood/epoxy junction of the plug. That is, the screws would pull out without damage to the fiberglass. Obviously this pullout force can't really be calculated, but it seems like it should be less than the wood/epoxy junction of the plug, but there is some risk that the plug could pull out first and transfer the load to the fiberglass. One very important unknown to this approach is the quality of the wood/epoxy junction. If the wood surrounding the epoxy is weak, the plug may pull out of the hole before the screw pulls out of the plug. This would transfer the load to the fiberglass. So there are risks to this approach. Filling the hole with epoxy and encapsulating the slivers in epoxy should prevent water infiltration. Bigger Holes This idea is to drill larger holes in the fiberglass, so that if the epoxy plug were to pull out, it can without damaging the fiberglass. The holes would have to be sealed to prevent water infiltration, perhaps with gelcoat. The force to pull the plugs out is likely much greater than the original pullout force (1500 lbs vs. 210 lbs), but maybe this is not a bad thing; if a minor accident occurs (less than 1500 lbs), everything remains intact and I still go sailing that day. It would seem that this approach would protect the fiberglass as intended (although maybe a stainless steel rail gets bent or broken). New Holes The original holes could be filled with epoxy and abandoned. Three new holes would be drilled in the tabernacle base plate and the block, being sure to make holes in the fiberglass larger than the major diameter of the screws. This would closely replicate the original design. Care would have to be taken to prevent water infiltration. It would be interesting to get confirmation from Stan that the factory drills holds in the fiberglass that are larger than the screw diameter. Shorter Screws The holes would be filled with epoxy, drilled, and new, shorter screws threaded into the epoxy plug. The problem with this approach is that I don't have a way to calculate the pullout force of the screw from the epoxy. Since I am a novice at repairs of this sort, I again look to the list/forum for advice. I suspect that in a case like this, group-instinct trumps calculations. ----- Long Beach Island -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ ------------------------------ Message: 19 Date: Mon, 3 Aug 2020 12:50:29 +0000 From: ROGER PIHLAJA To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Rudder Bolt Hole Enlarged Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" George, I would drill out the hole to 2X it?s present diameter. Then, coat the ID with unthickened epoxy to seal it. After the unthickened epoxy has kicked off; but, not fully cured, fill the hole with epoxy thickened with WEST System 406 Colloidal Silica and 423 Graphite powder mixed in a 90%wt 406, 10%wt 423 ratio. The thickener mixture should be dry blended first, not mixed separately into the epoxy. The epoxy should be loaded with the thickener such that the mixture flows like thick pancake batter. Mix the epoxy resin and thickener first, then add the thickener mixture, and blend it such that all the powder is wetted out with no lumps or bubbles. After the thickened epoxy is fully cured, drill out a hole for the bolt, and you?re good to go. The 406/423 filler mixture will provide a very hard, abrasion resistant, lubricative bearing surface for the bolt to turn on. But, you won?t have any galling or dissimilar metal corrosion issues with the stainless steel bolt. By wait ing for the unthickened epoxy to kick off, but not fully cure, when you pour in the thickened epoxy, you will have a molecular and mechanical bond with the rudder substrate that will never fail. This repair will last a very long time. Roger Pihlaja S/V Dynamic Equilibrium Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Graham Stewart Sent: Sunday, August 2, 2020 10:27 PM To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Rudder Bolt Hole Enlarged George: Might you epoxy in a tube, preferably stainless steel but aluminum might do, that has an opening that is the proper diameter. Graham Stewart Agile, Rodes 22, 1976 Kingston Ontario -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Gmorganflier Sent: Sunday, August 2, 2020 9:56 PM To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Rudder Bolt Hole Enlarged I took my rudder and rudder cheeks off today in preparation to paint them. The hole in the rudder where the pivot bolt goes through is quite enlarged....probably twice the diameter of the bolt. I noticed the plywood core where the hole goes through was wet. I feared maybe my entire rudder was waterlogged, but after turning the rudder upside down and leaving it in the sun, the hole appears to be drying up. There are no cracks or damaged areas which would allow water intrusion. The bolt hole seems to be the only way water is getting in and we did have rain yesterday. My question to those who are so much more experienced than me in boating repairs....what should I do to stop water from getting in the rudder through this bolt hole. Maybe enlarge the hole even more and epoxy some sort of bushing for the bolt to go through? I?m open for suggestions. Thanks, George Morgan 1986 R22 S/V Knotty Lady -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ ------------------------------ Message: 20 Date: Mon, 3 Aug 2020 06:15:21 -0700 (MST) From: Gmorganflier To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Rudder Bolt Hole Enlarged Message-ID: <1596460521780-0.post at n5.nabble.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 Roger and Graham, Thanks for your responses. Roger....I like your solution...I?ll plan to do as you recommended. George Morgan -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ ------------------------------ Message: 21 Date: Mon, 3 Aug 2020 13:45:08 +0000 From: "Lowe, Rob" To: "rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org" , Mark West Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] mainsail problems Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Yes, make note of the wrap direction and the number of turns that the furling line makes on the drum. I'm glad I took photos of mine when I replaced my main this year. - rob ________________________________ From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of Mark West via Rhodes22-list Sent: Friday, July 31, 2020 5:28 PM To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] mainsail problems straight mast is best, last year working with Charles on show boats we found one of the end bushing screw backed out and was hanging up inside sail area of mast, note rotation of line and sail and # of wraps around shaft the line makes Mark -----Original Message----- From: gramille To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Sent: Fri, Jul 31, 2020 4:12 pm Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] mainsail problems The mast is coming down soon and I will report back with what is discovered! I did wonder if I may have overtightened the rear stay causing or making worse the problem? That would perhaps explain the worsening of the problem this season! G -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ ------------------------------ Subject: Digest Footer _______________________________________________ Rhodes22-list mailing list Rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org http://rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list ------------------------------ End of Rhodes22-list Digest, Vol 4230, Issue 1 ********************************************** From richard at macarthurlawfirm.com Wed Aug 5 13:06:55 2020 From: richard at macarthurlawfirm.com (Richard MacArthur) Date: Wed, 5 Aug 2020 17:06:55 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] FW: Rhodes22-list Digest, Vol 4230, Issue 1 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: P S -we remove the cables when the mast is secure -----Original Message----- From: Richard MacArthur Sent: Wednesday, August 5, 2020 1:01 PM To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: RE: Rhodes22-list Digest, Vol 4230, Issue 1 With regard to the screws pulling out of the tabernacle, that happened to me about four years ago. The mast was at about 45 degrees but instead of the butt shooting across the foredeck and the mast falling, the butt hit the crane mounting and stopped. My attempts to fill the holes with short lengths of fiberglass and epoxy the new screws in didn't work. That did not hold the mast but pulled out. I decided to give the tabernacle extra help. I put the screws back I as before but this time I rigged two cables from the tabernacle bolt to the cleats on each side of the companionway, put protective covering where the cables contacted the deck, and tightened the cables with hardware bought turnbuckles. Now the tabernacle can't move and we crank the mast up and down with confidence. -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of rhodes22-list-request at rhodes22.org Sent: Monday, August 3, 2020 9:45 AM To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: Rhodes22-list Digest, Vol 4230, Issue 1 Send Rhodes22-list mailing list submissions to rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to rhodes22-list-request at rhodes22.org You can reach the person managing the list at rhodes22-list-owner at rhodes22.org When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of Rhodes22-list digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Re: mainsail problems (gramille) 2. Re: mainsail problems (gramille) 3. Re: Repair of Spider Cracks at Mast Step Tabernacle (Frederick Lange) 4. Re: mainsail problems (stan) 5. Re: mainsail problems (gramille) 6. Re: mainsail problems (Mark West) 7. Re: mainsail problems (Peter Nyberg) 8. Re: mainsail problems (cjlowe at sssnet.com) 9. Re: mainsail problems (gramille) 10. Reconnecting the Tabernacle Screws Following Sacrificial Failure (Chris on LBI) 11. Re: Reconnecting the Tabernacle Screws Following Sacrificial Failure (Mike Riter) 12. Re: Reconnecting the Tabernacle Screws Following Sacrificial Failure (Peter Nyberg) 13. Re: Reconnecting the Tabernacle Screws Following Sacrificial Failure (Michael D. Weisner) 14. Rudder Bolt Hole Enlarged (Gmorganflier) 15. Re: Reconnecting the Tabernacle Screws Following Sacrificial Failure (Graham Stewart) 16. Re: Rudder Bolt Hole Enlarged (Graham Stewart) 17. Re: Reconnecting the Tabernacle Screws Following Sacrificial Failure (Chris on LBI) 18. Re: Reconnecting the Tabernacle Screws Following Sacrificial Failure (ROGER PIHLAJA) 19. Re: Rudder Bolt Hole Enlarged (ROGER PIHLAJA) 20. Re: Rudder Bolt Hole Enlarged (Gmorganflier) 21. Re: mainsail problems (Lowe, Rob) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2020 08:35:34 -0700 (MST) From: gramille To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] mainsail problems Message-ID: <1596123334638-0.post at n5.nabble.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Thanks May Lou, Le's hope it is that simple! Graham -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2020 08:51:03 -0700 (MST) From: gramille To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] mainsail problems Message-ID: <1596124263780-0.post at n5.nabble.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Thanks Chris, you make a strong case for replacement! Graham -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2020 12:00:46 -0400 From: Frederick Lange To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Repair of Spider Cracks at Mast Step Tabernacle Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8" Yes, I had to have the whole wood mast step plate replaced along with most of the fiberglass. Regards, Rick Lange On Thu, Jul 30, 2020 at 10:52 AM Chris on LBI wrote: > Has anyone actually experienced the epoxy plugs pulling out as a result of > a > subsequent mast mishap? If so, did the plugs damage the fiberglass > surrounding the screw holes? If they did not damage the surrounding > fiberglass, I have to wonder why not. > > > > ----- > Long Beach Island > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > ------------------------------ Message: 4 Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2020 12:14:40 -0400 From: stan To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] mainsail problems Message-ID: <77ffb524-95b1-04a6-b4dc-e25ca5b731ba at generalboats.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed Graham P.,? For us both to be fair to all those who have, it is time to join the Coop. PS:? I see this is going to the List so I will add that for? anyone liking anything historical about the Rhodes, I am doing a piece on Inner mast furling that goes back to the Phil Rhodes years; it has a chuckle or two but its interesting part, at least for me, is discovering this industry's business plans mentality re this innovation. Apropos of the current thread on IMF, the problem is in the name, not the product.? We will cover that as well. My problem is time to get to all this.? The new ROC site for parts is doing well but I am having trouble remembering where I keep all those parts.?? Still looking for partnering but think I will shift the emphasis to Female partnering.? The deal gets squashed with male wannabes when they figure in the cost of the divorce. stan > On Jul 27, 2020, at 11:30 PM, gramille wrote: >> Hi Stan, >> It is a 2011 model that you refurbished for Scott Johnson of Knoxville >> ,Tennessee in 2015. I bought it from him last year and the mainsail worked >> okay although it did occasionally stick towards the top of the mast. >> This has gradually worsened despite my best attempts to furl it carefully. >> It is definitely more awkward on the upper setting. Lastly, there was very >> little wind on my last sail on Saturday when it again jammed and ripped as I >> was pulling it out! I did not have any real problems last year but it has >> gradually become more fussy this season! >> >> >> ------------------------------ Message: 5 Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2020 13:12:31 -0700 (MST) From: gramille To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] mainsail problems Message-ID: <1596226351689-0.post at n5.nabble.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii The mast is coming down soon and I will report back with what is discovered! I did wonder if I may have overtightened the rear stay causing or making worse the problem? That would perhaps explain the worsening of the problem this season! G -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ ------------------------------ Message: 6 Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2020 21:28:46 +0000 (UTC) From: Mark West To: "rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org" Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] mainsail problems Message-ID: <247043968.7192172.1596230926478 at mail.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 straight mast is best, last year working with Charles on show boats we found one of the end bushing screw backed out and was hanging up inside sail area of mast, note rotation of line and sail and # of wraps around shaft the line makes? ?Mark -----Original Message----- From: gramille To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Sent: Fri, Jul 31, 2020 4:12 pm Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] mainsail problems The mast is coming down soon and I will report back with what is discovered! I did wonder if I may have overtightened the rear stay causing or making worse the problem? That would perhaps explain the worsening of the problem this season! G -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ ------------------------------ Message: 7 Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2020 21:01:51 -0400 From: Peter Nyberg To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] mainsail problems Message-ID: <6E25F479-C21C-43C7-BBFB-6C91B21EDD30 at sunnybeeches.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 I seriously doubt that you could have tightened the rear stay enough to cause this problem. ?Peter > On Jul 31, 2020, at 4:12 PM, gramille wrote: > > The mast is coming down soon and I will report back with what is discovered! > I did wonder if I may have overtightened the rear stay causing or making > worse the problem? > That would perhaps explain the worsening of the problem this season! > G > > > > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ ------------------------------ Message: 8 Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2020 23:43:12 -0400 (EDT) From: cjlowe at sssnet.com To: "The Rhodes 22 Email List" Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] mainsail problems Message-ID: <61972.24.140.30.102.1596253392.squirrel at quickpop.sssnet.com> Content-Type: text/plain;charset=iso-8859-1 Well, since this came up, I'd noticed that since I loosened my back stay , I've had trouble furling my main sail. Its bunching up at the bottom. I will try tightening it back up and see wh > I seriously doubt that you could have tightened the rear stay enough to > cause this problem. > > ???Peter > >> On Jul 31, 2020, at 4:12 PM, gramille wrote: >> >> The mast is coming down soon and I will report back with what is >> discovered! >> I did wonder if I may have overtightened the rear stay causing or making >> worse the problem? >> That would perhaps explain the worsening of the problem this season! >> G >> >> >> >> -- >> Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > > ------------------------------ Message: 9 Date: Sat, 1 Aug 2020 07:43:21 -0700 (MST) From: gramille To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] mainsail problems Message-ID: <1596293001702-0.post at n5.nabble.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Interesting - any other opinions? G -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ ------------------------------ Message: 10 Date: Sun, 2 Aug 2020 16:39:30 -0700 (MST) From: Chris on LBI To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Reconnecting the Tabernacle Screws Following Sacrificial Failure Message-ID: <1596411570037-0.post at n5.nabble.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 This topic is a continuation of a different topic titled ?"Repair of Spider Cracks at Mast Step Tabernacle?. The subject matter of that topic quickly strayed from gelcoat repair to how to replace the tabernacle screws after they pull loose. I thought it would be good to highlight this subject matter with a new topic heading. I thank Graham Stewart, Rodger Pihlaja, Mike Riter, and Rick Lange all of whom weighed in on the original thread. Last week while lowering the mast, the three screws holding the tabernacle to the block above the cabin let loose when the mast was at an angle of about 45 degrees. A shroud had fouled and the resulting (unintended) forces pulled the screws out. In reading on this list/forum, I was relieved to learn that these screw connections were designed to fail to avoid more expensive damage to the plate and the cabin top. It also seems that the repair is very easy to accomplish. However, in asking advice regarding the repair and in doing some research, I'm undecided as to how the repair should be performed since I have conflicting information. I've started this new thread to focus specifically on reconnecting these three screws to the block below the tabernacle plate so that the sacrificial nature of the junction is preserved. The three screws on my boat are 3/16? stainless steel, 1? long, with 10 threads per inch. The mounting block below the tabernacle appears to be wood covered with fiberglass and gelcoat. The combination fiberglass and gelcoat appear to be about 1/4? thick. The stainless steel base of the tabernacle is 1/8? thick. The holes in the fiberglass are larger than the major diameter of the screws. Based on this information I estimate that about 5/8? of the screws were threaded into the wood block. I read somewhere on this list/forum that the block is typically pine. Using an online tool (https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/wood-screws-allowable-withdrawal-load-d_1815.html ) that calculates pullout force, I estimate that each of the three screws would pull out at about 70 pounds of upward force; 210 pounds total. I had planned to make the repair by filling the holes with epoxy and then drilling holes in the epoxy to receive the screws. Since there was some soft wood around the perimeter of the holes, I scraped it out as best I could, and noted that the new epoxy ?plug? would be larger in diameter than the holes in the fiberglass. That is, some of the epoxy plug would be underneath of the fiberglass. This led me to wonder at what force the plug would release from the surrounding wood because if it did release, it would transfer the load to the fiberglass above the plug. Apparently the way to estimate this force is to take the vertical surface area of the wood/epoxy plug and multiply it by the shear factor of a wood/epoxy joint (obviously an estimate). A few sources online use 800 psi as this shear factor. So using a 5/8? deep hole with a diameter of 5/16?, I get a pullout force of about 500 pounds per plug; 1500 pounds total. I assume that the pullout force of a screw from an epoxy plug is greater than 500 pounds but I can't find a way to estimate this. Although, if it were a steel pin (without threads), the shear factor would be estimated at 1600 psi. So with the threads the shear factor would be much great than this and thus the screw withdrawal force would be much greater than the plug withdrawal force. That is, the plug will pull out well before the screw pulls out of the plug. Unless of course it is a shorter screw. But without a way to calculate it, I would not know what length screw to use to achieve the desired pullout force. While a few days ago I was all set to start mixing up a batch of epoxy, now I'm not so sure. Using these calculations based on the assumptions indicated, the planned approach would change the original design in two very significant ways. First, the total pullout force would increase from 210 pounds to 1500 pounds. Second, with the epoxy repair, in the case of failure, the load would be transferred to the underside of the fiberglass which I assume the original design is intended to protect. That is, the original design sacrifices the wood/screw connection, the screws pull out, and the fiberglass is left unharmed. So now I am left contemplating four different options: Wood Slivers, Bigger Holes, New Holes, Shorter Screws Wood Slivers The idea would be to partially fill the holes with epoxy, and then pack the holes with wood slivers that would intentionally weaken the epoxy with the hope that the epoxy/screw junction fails before the wood/epoxy junction of the plug. That is, the screws would pull out without damage to the fiberglass. Obviously this pullout force can't really be calculated, but it seems like it should be less than the wood/epoxy junction of the plug, but there is some risk that the plug could pull out first and transfer the load to the fiberglass. One very important unknown to this approach is the quality of the wood/epoxy junction. If the wood surrounding the epoxy is weak, the plug may pull out of the hole before the screw pulls out of the plug. This would transfer the load to the fiberglass. So there are risks to this approach. Filling the hole with epoxy and encapsulating the slivers in epoxy should prevent water infiltration. Bigger Holes This idea is to drill larger holes in the fiberglass, so that if the epoxy plug were to pull out, it can without damaging the fiberglass. The holes would have to be sealed to prevent water infiltration, perhaps with gelcoat. The force to pull the plugs out is likely much greater than the original pullout force (1500 lbs vs. 210 lbs), but maybe this is not a bad thing; if a minor accident occurs (less than 1500 lbs), everything remains intact and I still go sailing that day. It would seem that this approach would protect the fiberglass as intended (although maybe a stainless steel rail gets bent or broken). New Holes The original holes could be filled with epoxy and abandoned. Three new holes would be drilled in the tabernacle base plate and the block, being sure to make holes in the fiberglass larger than the major diameter of the screws. This would closely replicate the original design. Care would have to be taken to prevent water infiltration. It would be interesting to get confirmation from Stan that the factory drills holds in the fiberglass that are larger than the screw diameter. Shorter Screws The holes would be filled with epoxy, drilled, and new, shorter screws threaded into the epoxy plug. The problem with this approach is that I don't have a way to calculate the pullout force of the screw from the epoxy. Since I am a novice at repairs of this sort, I again look to the list/forum for advice. I suspect that in a case like this, group-instinct trumps calculations. ----- Long Beach Island -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ ------------------------------ Message: 11 Date: Sun, 2 Aug 2020 21:20:37 -0400 From: Mike Riter To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Reconnecting the Tabernacle Screws Following Sacrificial Failure Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8" You have really, really thought this through Chris! Looking through your list of possible choices, I'm throwing my vote in the new holes category. Fill the existing holes with epoxy, including the spider web cracks, sand everything smooth and drill new holes. Assuming a good core, the new holes would represent the same forces of the original mounting. Michael Riter SV Emma B On Sun, Aug 2, 2020 at 7:39 PM Chris on LBI wrote: > This topic is a continuation of a different topic titled ?"Repair of Spider > Cracks at Mast Step Tabernacle?. The subject matter of that topic quickly > strayed from gelcoat repair to how to replace the tabernacle screws after > they pull loose. I thought it would be good to highlight this subject > matter > with a new topic heading. I thank Graham Stewart, Rodger Pihlaja, Mike > Riter, and Rick Lange all of whom weighed in on the original thread. > > Last week while lowering the mast, the three screws holding the tabernacle > to the block above the cabin let loose when the mast was at an angle of > about 45 degrees. A shroud had fouled and the resulting (unintended) forces > pulled the screws out. In reading on this list/forum, I was relieved to > learn that these screw connections were designed to fail to avoid more > expensive damage to the plate and the cabin top. It also seems that the > repair is very easy to accomplish. However, in asking advice regarding the > repair and in doing some research, I'm undecided as to how the repair > should > be performed since I have conflicting information. I've started this new > thread to focus specifically on reconnecting these three screws to the > block > below the tabernacle plate so that the sacrificial nature of the junction > is > preserved. > > The three screws on my boat are 3/16? stainless steel, 1? long, with 10 > threads per inch. The mounting block below the tabernacle appears to be > wood > covered with fiberglass and gelcoat. The combination fiberglass and gelcoat > appear to be about 1/4? thick. The stainless steel base of the tabernacle > is > 1/8? thick. The holes in the fiberglass are larger than the major diameter > of the screws. Based on this information I estimate that about 5/8? of the > screws were threaded into the wood block. I read somewhere on this > list/forum that the block is typically pine. Using an online tool > > ( > https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/wood-screws-allowable-withdrawal-load-d_1815.html > ) that calculates pullout force, I estimate that each of the three screws > would pull out at about 70 pounds of upward force; 210 pounds total. > > I had planned to make the repair by filling the holes with epoxy and then > drilling holes in the epoxy to receive the screws. Since there was some > soft > wood around the perimeter of the holes, I scraped it out as best I could, > and noted that the new epoxy ?plug? would be larger in diameter than the > holes in the fiberglass. That is, some of the epoxy plug would be > underneath of the fiberglass. This led me to wonder at what force the plug > would release from the surrounding wood because if it did release, it would > transfer the load to the fiberglass above the plug. Apparently the way to > estimate this force is to take the vertical surface area of the wood/epoxy > plug and multiply it by the shear factor of a wood/epoxy joint (obviously > an > estimate). A few sources online use 800 psi as this shear factor. So using > a > 5/8? deep hole with a diameter of 5/16?, I get a pullout force of about 500 > pounds per plug; 1500 pounds total. > > I assume that the pullout force of a screw from an epoxy plug is greater > than 500 pounds but I can't find a way to estimate this. Although, if it > were a steel pin (without threads), the shear factor would be estimated at > 1600 psi. So with the threads the shear factor would be much great than > this > and thus the screw withdrawal force would be much greater than the plug > withdrawal force. That is, the plug will pull out well before the screw > pulls out of the plug. Unless of course it is a shorter screw. But without > a > way to calculate it, I would not know what length screw to use to achieve > the desired pullout force. > > While a few days ago I was all set to start mixing up a batch of epoxy, now > I'm not so sure. Using these calculations based on the assumptions > indicated, the planned approach would change the original design in two > very > significant ways. First, the total pullout force would increase from 210 > pounds to 1500 pounds. Second, with the epoxy repair, in the case of > failure, the load would be transferred to the underside of the fiberglass > which I assume the original design is intended to protect. That is, the > original design sacrifices the wood/screw connection, the screws pull out, > and the fiberglass is left unharmed. > > So now I am left contemplating four different options: Wood Slivers, Bigger > Holes, New Holes, Shorter Screws > > Wood Slivers > The idea would be to partially fill the holes with epoxy, and then pack the > holes with wood slivers that would intentionally weaken the epoxy with the > hope that the epoxy/screw junction fails before the wood/epoxy junction of > the plug. That is, the screws would pull out without damage to the > fiberglass. Obviously this pullout force can't really be calculated, but it > seems like it should be less than the wood/epoxy junction of the plug, but > there is some risk that the plug could pull out first and transfer the load > to the fiberglass. One very important unknown to this approach is the > quality of the wood/epoxy junction. If the wood surrounding the epoxy is > weak, the plug may pull out of the hole before the screw pulls out of the > plug. This would transfer the load to the fiberglass. So there are risks to > this approach. Filling the hole with epoxy and encapsulating the slivers in > epoxy should prevent water infiltration. > > Bigger Holes > This idea is to drill larger holes in the fiberglass, so that if the epoxy > plug were to pull out, it can without damaging the fiberglass. The holes > would have to be sealed to prevent water infiltration, perhaps with > gelcoat. > The force to pull the plugs out is likely much greater than the original > pullout force (1500 lbs vs. 210 lbs), but maybe this is not a bad thing; if > a minor accident occurs (less than 1500 lbs), everything remains intact and > I still go sailing that day. It would seem that this approach would protect > the fiberglass as intended (although maybe a stainless steel rail gets bent > or broken). > > New Holes > The original holes could be filled with epoxy and abandoned. Three new > holes > would be drilled in the tabernacle base plate and the block, being sure to > make holes in the fiberglass larger than the major diameter of the screws. > This would closely replicate the original design. Care would have to be > taken to prevent water infiltration. It would be interesting to get > confirmation from Stan that the factory drills holds in the fiberglass that > are larger than the screw diameter. > > Shorter Screws > The holes would be filled with epoxy, drilled, and new, shorter screws > threaded into the epoxy plug. The problem with this approach is that I > don't > have a way to calculate the pullout force of the screw from the epoxy. > > Since I am a novice at repairs of this sort, I again look to the list/forum > for advice. I suspect that in a case like this, group-instinct trumps > calculations. > > > > ----- > Long Beach Island > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > ------------------------------ Message: 12 Date: Sun, 2 Aug 2020 21:33:29 -0400 From: Peter Nyberg To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Reconnecting the Tabernacle Screws Following Sacrificial Failure Message-ID: <80E5FDB0-B569-4C8A-831C-4A515A2BFDCD at sunnybeeches.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 In my opinion, the most import thing is to prevent water intrusion, everything else is pretty easy to repair. You seem to believe that damage to the fiberglass skin would be difficult to deal with, but I don?t believe that?s the case. Given the options you outline, I?d go with the ?bigger holes? approach. Peter Nyberg Coventry, CT s/v Silverheels (1988/2016) > On Aug 2, 2020, at 7:39 PM, Chris on LBI wrote: > > This topic is a continuation of a different topic titled ?"Repair of Spider > Cracks at Mast Step Tabernacle?. The subject matter of that topic quickly > strayed from gelcoat repair to how to replace the tabernacle screws after > they pull loose. I thought it would be good to highlight this subject matter > with a new topic heading. I thank Graham Stewart, Rodger Pihlaja, Mike > Riter, and Rick Lange all of whom weighed in on the original thread. > > Last week while lowering the mast, the three screws holding the tabernacle > to the block above the cabin let loose when the mast was at an angle of > about 45 degrees. A shroud had fouled and the resulting (unintended) forces > pulled the screws out. In reading on this list/forum, I was relieved to > learn that these screw connections were designed to fail to avoid more > expensive damage to the plate and the cabin top. It also seems that the > repair is very easy to accomplish. However, in asking advice regarding the > repair and in doing some research, I'm undecided as to how the repair should > be performed since I have conflicting information. I've started this new > thread to focus specifically on reconnecting these three screws to the block > below the tabernacle plate so that the sacrificial nature of the junction is > preserved. > > The three screws on my boat are 3/16? stainless steel, 1? long, with 10 > threads per inch. The mounting block below the tabernacle appears to be wood > covered with fiberglass and gelcoat. The combination fiberglass and gelcoat > appear to be about 1/4? thick. The stainless steel base of the tabernacle is > 1/8? thick. The holes in the fiberglass are larger than the major diameter > of the screws. Based on this information I estimate that about 5/8? of the > screws were threaded into the wood block. I read somewhere on this > list/forum that the block is typically pine. Using an online tool > > (https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/wood-screws-allowable-withdrawal-load-d_1815.html > ) that calculates pullout force, I estimate that each of the three screws > would pull out at about 70 pounds of upward force; 210 pounds total. > > I had planned to make the repair by filling the holes with epoxy and then > drilling holes in the epoxy to receive the screws. Since there was some soft > wood around the perimeter of the holes, I scraped it out as best I could, > and noted that the new epoxy ?plug? would be larger in diameter than the > holes in the fiberglass. That is, some of the epoxy plug would be > underneath of the fiberglass. This led me to wonder at what force the plug > would release from the surrounding wood because if it did release, it would > transfer the load to the fiberglass above the plug. Apparently the way to > estimate this force is to take the vertical surface area of the wood/epoxy > plug and multiply it by the shear factor of a wood/epoxy joint (obviously an > estimate). A few sources online use 800 psi as this shear factor. So using a > 5/8? deep hole with a diameter of 5/16?, I get a pullout force of about 500 > pounds per plug; 1500 pounds total. > > I assume that the pullout force of a screw from an epoxy plug is greater > than 500 pounds but I can't find a way to estimate this. Although, if it > were a steel pin (without threads), the shear factor would be estimated at > 1600 psi. So with the threads the shear factor would be much great than this > and thus the screw withdrawal force would be much greater than the plug > withdrawal force. That is, the plug will pull out well before the screw > pulls out of the plug. Unless of course it is a shorter screw. But without a > way to calculate it, I would not know what length screw to use to achieve > the desired pullout force. > > While a few days ago I was all set to start mixing up a batch of epoxy, now > I'm not so sure. Using these calculations based on the assumptions > indicated, the planned approach would change the original design in two very > significant ways. First, the total pullout force would increase from 210 > pounds to 1500 pounds. Second, with the epoxy repair, in the case of > failure, the load would be transferred to the underside of the fiberglass > which I assume the original design is intended to protect. That is, the > original design sacrifices the wood/screw connection, the screws pull out, > and the fiberglass is left unharmed. > > So now I am left contemplating four different options: Wood Slivers, Bigger > Holes, New Holes, Shorter Screws > > Wood Slivers > The idea would be to partially fill the holes with epoxy, and then pack the > holes with wood slivers that would intentionally weaken the epoxy with the > hope that the epoxy/screw junction fails before the wood/epoxy junction of > the plug. That is, the screws would pull out without damage to the > fiberglass. Obviously this pullout force can't really be calculated, but it > seems like it should be less than the wood/epoxy junction of the plug, but > there is some risk that the plug could pull out first and transfer the load > to the fiberglass. One very important unknown to this approach is the > quality of the wood/epoxy junction. If the wood surrounding the epoxy is > weak, the plug may pull out of the hole before the screw pulls out of the > plug. This would transfer the load to the fiberglass. So there are risks to > this approach. Filling the hole with epoxy and encapsulating the slivers in > epoxy should prevent water infiltration. > > Bigger Holes > This idea is to drill larger holes in the fiberglass, so that if the epoxy > plug were to pull out, it can without damaging the fiberglass. The holes > would have to be sealed to prevent water infiltration, perhaps with gelcoat. > The force to pull the plugs out is likely much greater than the original > pullout force (1500 lbs vs. 210 lbs), but maybe this is not a bad thing; if > a minor accident occurs (less than 1500 lbs), everything remains intact and > I still go sailing that day. It would seem that this approach would protect > the fiberglass as intended (although maybe a stainless steel rail gets bent > or broken). > > New Holes > The original holes could be filled with epoxy and abandoned. Three new holes > would be drilled in the tabernacle base plate and the block, being sure to > make holes in the fiberglass larger than the major diameter of the screws. > This would closely replicate the original design. Care would have to be > taken to prevent water infiltration. It would be interesting to get > confirmation from Stan that the factory drills holds in the fiberglass that > are larger than the screw diameter. > > Shorter Screws > The holes would be filled with epoxy, drilled, and new, shorter screws > threaded into the epoxy plug. The problem with this approach is that I don't > have a way to calculate the pullout force of the screw from the epoxy. > > Since I am a novice at repairs of this sort, I again look to the list/forum > for advice. I suspect that in a case like this, group-instinct trumps > calculations. > > > > ----- > Long Beach Island > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ ------------------------------ Message: 13 Date: Sun, 02 Aug 2020 21:52:22 -0400 From: "Michael D. Weisner" To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Reconnecting the Tabernacle Screws Following Sacrificial Failure Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 Chris,I understand your issue of pulling out the entire epoxy plug and damaging the fiberglass over the epoxy that has flowed outside of the original hole where you removed damaged wood.Can you make a wood plug that is the diameter of the hole, made of the same wood used in the tabernacle structure, preserving the correct grain? If you can, why not set this wood plug into the epoxy and set the screw into the wood plug? You will have replicated the original structure and release properties for the screw. You shouldn't need to worry about the epoxy pulling out if the screw releases first.? ?Mike? ?s/v Wind Lass ('91)? ?Nissequogue, NY -------- Original message --------From: Chris on LBI Date: 8/2/20 7:39 PM (GMT-05:00) To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Reconnecting the Tabernacle Screws Following Sacrificial Failure This topic is a continuation of a different topic titled ?"Repair of SpiderCracks at Mast Step Tabernacle?. The subject matter of that topic quicklystrayed from gelcoat repair to how to replace the tabernacle screws afterthey pull loose. I thought it would be good to highlight this subject matterwith a new topic heading. I thank Graham Stewart, Rodger Pihlaja, MikeRiter, and Rick Lange all of whom weighed in on the original thread.Last week while lowering the mast, the three screws holding the tabernacleto the block above the cabin let loose when the mast was at an angle ofabout 45 degrees. A shroud had fouled and the resulting (unintended) forcespulled the screws out. In reading on this list/forum, I was relieved tolearn that these screw connections were designed to fail to avoid moreexpensive damage to the plate and the cabin top. It also seems that therepair is very easy to accomplish. However, in asking advice regarding therepair and in doing some re search, I'm undecided as to how the repair shouldbe performed since I have conflicting information. I've started this newthread to focus specifically on reconnecting these three screws to the blockbelow the tabernacle plate so that the sacrificial nature of the junction ispreserved.The three screws on my boat are 3/16? stainless steel, 1? long, with 10threads per inch. The mounting block below the tabernacle appears to be woodcovered with fiberglass and gelcoat. The combination fiberglass and gelcoatappear to be about 1/4? thick. The stainless steel base of the tabernacle is1/8? thick. The holes in the fiberglass are larger than the major diameterof the screws.? Based on this information I estimate that about 5/8? of thescrews were threaded into the wood block. I read somewhere on thislist/forum that the block is typically pine. Using an online tool (https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/wood-screws-allowable-withdrawal-load-d_1815.html) that calculates pullout force, I estimat e that each of the three screwswould pull out at about 70 pounds of upward force; 210 pounds total.I had planned to make the repair by filling the holes with epoxy and thendrilling holes in the epoxy to receive the screws. Since there was some softwood around the perimeter of the holes, I scraped it out as best I could,and noted that the new epoxy ?plug? would be larger in diameter than theholes in the fiberglass.? That is, some of the epoxy plug would beunderneath of the fiberglass. This led me to wonder at what force the plugwould release from the surrounding wood because if it did release, it wouldtransfer the load to the fiberglass above the plug. Apparently the way toestimate this force is to take the vertical surface area of the wood/epoxyplug and multiply it by the shear factor of a wood/epoxy joint (obviously anestimate). A few sources online use 800 psi as this shear factor. So using a5/8? deep hole with a diameter of 5/16?, I get a pullout force of about 500pounds per plug; 1500 pounds total. I assume that the pullout force of a screw from an epoxy plug is greaterthan 500 pounds but I can't find a way to estimate this. Although, if itwere a steel pin (without threads), the shear factor would be estimated at1600 psi. So with the threads the shear factor would be much great than thisand thus the screw withdrawal force would be much greater than the plugwithdrawal force. That is, the plug will pull out well before the screwpulls out of the plug. Unless of course it is a shorter screw. But without away to calculate it, I would not know what length screw to use to achievethe desired pullout force.While a few days ago I was all set to start mixing up a batch of epoxy, nowI'm not so sure. Using these calculations based on the assumptionsindicated, the planned approach would change the original design in two verysignificant ways. First, the total pullout force would increase from 210pounds to 1500 pounds. Second, with the epoxy repair, in the case offailure, the load would be transferred to the underside of the fiberglasswhich I assume the original design is intended to protect. That is, theoriginal design sacrifices the wood/screw connection, the screws pull out,and the fiberglass is left unharmed.So now I am left contemplating four different options: Wood Slivers, BiggerHoles, New Holes, Shorter ScrewsWood SliversThe idea would be to partially fill the holes with epoxy, and then pack theholes with wood slivers that would intentionally weaken the epoxy with thehope that the epoxy/screw junction fails before the wood/epoxy junction ofthe plug. That is, the screws would pull out without damage to thefiberglass. Obviously this pullout force can't really be calculated, but itseems like it should be less than the wood/epoxy junction of the plug, butthere is some risk that the plug could pull out first and transfer the loadto the fiberglass.? One very important unknown to this approach is thequality of the wood/epoxy junction. If the wood surrounding the epoxy isweak, the plug may pull out of the hole before the screw pulls out of theplug. This would transfer the load to the fiberglass. So there are risks tothis approach. Filling the hole with epoxy and encapsulating the slivers inepoxy should prevent water infiltration.Bigger HolesThis idea is to drill larger holes in the fiberglass, so that if the epoxyplug were to pull out, it can without damaging the fiberglass. The holeswould have to be sealed to prevent water infiltration, perhaps with gelcoat.The force to pull the plugs out is likely much greater than the originalpullout force (1500 lbs vs. 210 lbs), but maybe this is not a bad thing; ifa minor accident occurs (less than 1500 lbs), everything remains intact andI still go sailing that day. It would seem that this approach would protectthe fiberglass as intended (although maybe a stainless steel rail gets bentor broken).New HolesThe original holes could be filled with epoxy and aba ndoned. Three new holeswould be drilled in the tabernacle base plate and the block, being sure tomake holes in the fiberglass larger than the major diameter of the screws.This would closely replicate the original design. Care would have to betaken to prevent water infiltration. It would be interesting to getconfirmation from Stan that the factory drills holds in the fiberglass thatare larger than the screw diameter.Shorter ScrewsThe holes would be filled with epoxy, drilled, and new, shorter screwsthreaded into the epoxy plug. The problem with this approach is that I don'thave a way to calculate the pullout force of the screw from the epoxy. Since I am a novice at repairs of this sort, I again look to the list/forumfor advice. I suspect that in a case like this, group-instinct trumpscalculations.-----Long Beach Island--Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ ------------------------------ Message: 14 Date: Sun, 2 Aug 2020 18:55:30 -0700 (MST) From: Gmorganflier To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Rudder Bolt Hole Enlarged Message-ID: <1596419730473-0.post at n5.nabble.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 I took my rudder and rudder cheeks off today in preparation to paint them. The hole in the rudder where the pivot bolt goes through is quite enlarged....probably twice the diameter of the bolt. I noticed the plywood core where the hole goes through was wet. I feared maybe my entire rudder was waterlogged, but after turning the rudder upside down and leaving it in the sun, the hole appears to be drying up. There are no cracks or damaged areas which would allow water intrusion. The bolt hole seems to be the only way water is getting in and we did have rain yesterday. My question to those who are so much more experienced than me in boating repairs....what should I do to stop water from getting in the rudder through this bolt hole. Maybe enlarge the hole even more and epoxy some sort of bushing for the bolt to go through? I?m open for suggestions. Thanks, George Morgan 1986 R22 S/V Knotty Lady -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ ------------------------------ Message: 15 Date: Sun, 2 Aug 2020 22:06:49 -0400 From: "Graham Stewart" To: "'The Rhodes 22 Email List'" Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Reconnecting the Tabernacle Screws Following Sacrificial Failure Message-ID: <034901d6693a$c1adf0b0$4509d210$@ca> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8" Your calculations are impressive but in the end you probably need to go with what you are most comfortable. The discussion has been interesting to me and I now think I would do it differently than I did last time when I drilled out the hole, filled with epoxy and then drilled new holes. Option 1 to use slivers and epoxy and option 2 to drill larger holes are not mutually exclusive as I understand them and I think that combination is what I would go with. In that case I would want to maximize the proportion of wood slivers to epoxy. The epoxy would be only sufficient to seal the core and hold the slivers together. Not having the fiberglass overhanging the hole would likely reduce the damage to the skin should the plug pull out. The weakest link, I would think, would be the interface between the plug and the core material. Unless the core is damaged and the epoxy seeps into crevices I would think that the force required to pull the plug out would not be much greater than the force required to pull a screw out of solid wood under fiberglass. That is what I think but I could easily be entirely wrong. In this case you want a properly sealed but relatively weak bond. Using the slivers tightly packed strikes me as the best way to achieve this balance. I don't know how you could abandon the old holes and drill new ones without moving the base. I would not do that. When I rebuilt my deck I removed the mast foot, repaired and then painted the step along with the entire deck. I did not make careful note of exactly where the plate was attached thinking that is was centered on the step. Nope, it has to placed exactly in the right place or you will not be able to attach the slider for the pop top to raise and descend properly. I ended up doing this install three times before I got it right. Each time I had to raise and then lower the mast. After spending 7 years restoring the boat you can imagine how frustrating that was to be stopped at the moment that I would be able to raise the sails and go. The screws you have are, as I recall, much shorter than mine but if these are what Stan used I would stick with them. Good luck, Graham Stewart gstewart8 at cogeco.ca -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Chris on LBI Sent: Sunday, August 2, 2020 7:40 PM To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Reconnecting the Tabernacle Screws Following Sacrificial Failure This topic is a continuation of a different topic titled ?"Repair of Spider Cracks at Mast Step Tabernacle?. The subject matter of that topic quickly strayed from gelcoat repair to how to replace the tabernacle screws after they pull loose. I thought it would be good to highlight this subject matter with a new topic heading. I thank Graham Stewart, Rodger Pihlaja, Mike Riter, and Rick Lange all of whom weighed in on the original thread. Last week while lowering the mast, the three screws holding the tabernacle to the block above the cabin let loose when the mast was at an angle of about 45 degrees. A shroud had fouled and the resulting (unintended) forces pulled the screws out. In reading on this list/forum, I was relieved to learn that these screw connections were designed to fail to avoid more expensive damage to the plate and the cabin top. It also seems that the repair is very easy to accomplish. However, in asking advice regarding the repair and in doing some research, I'm undecided as to how the repair should be performed since I have conflicting information. I've started this new thread to focus specifically on reconnecting these three screws to the block below the tabernacle plate so that the sacrificial nature of the junction is preserved. The three screws on my boat are 3/16? stainless steel, 1? long, with 10 threads per inch. The mounting block below the tabernacle appears to be wood covered with fiberglass and gelcoat. The combination fiberglass and gelcoat appear to be about 1/4? thick. The stainless steel base of the tabernacle is 1/8? thick. The holes in the fiberglass are larger than the major diameter of the screws. Based on this information I estimate that about 5/8? of the screws were threaded into the wood block. I read somewhere on this list/forum that the block is typically pine. Using an online tool (https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/wood-screws-allowable-withdrawal-load-d_1815.html ) that calculates pullout force, I estimate that each of the three screws would pull out at about 70 pounds of upward force; 210 pounds total. I had planned to make the repair by filling the holes with epoxy and then drilling holes in the epoxy to receive the screws. Since there was some soft wood around the perimeter of the holes, I scraped it out as best I could, and noted that the new epoxy ?plug? would be larger in diameter than the holes in the fiberglass. That is, some of the epoxy plug would be underneath of the fiberglass. This led me to wonder at what force the plug would release from the surrounding wood because if it did release, it would transfer the load to the fiberglass above the plug. Apparently the way to estimate this force is to take the vertical surface area of the wood/epoxy plug and multiply it by the shear factor of a wood/epoxy joint (obviously an estimate). A few sources online use 800 psi as this shear factor. So using a 5/8? deep hole with a diameter of 5/16?, I get a pullout force of about 500 pounds per plug; 1500 pounds total. I assume that the pullout force of a screw from an epoxy plug is greater than 500 pounds but I can't find a way to estimate this. Although, if it were a steel pin (without threads), the shear factor would be estimated at 1600 psi. So with the threads the shear factor would be much great than this and thus the screw withdrawal force would be much greater than the plug withdrawal force. That is, the plug will pull out well before the screw pulls out of the plug. Unless of course it is a shorter screw. But without a way to calculate it, I would not know what length screw to use to achieve the desired pullout force. While a few days ago I was all set to start mixing up a batch of epoxy, now I'm not so sure. Using these calculations based on the assumptions indicated, the planned approach would change the original design in two very significant ways. First, the total pullout force would increase from 210 pounds to 1500 pounds. Second, with the epoxy repair, in the case of failure, the load would be transferred to the underside of the fiberglass which I assume the original design is intended to protect. That is, the original design sacrifices the wood/screw connection, the screws pull out, and the fiberglass is left unharmed. So now I am left contemplating four different options: Wood Slivers, Bigger Holes, New Holes, Shorter Screws Wood Slivers The idea would be to partially fill the holes with epoxy, and then pack the holes with wood slivers that would intentionally weaken the epoxy with the hope that the epoxy/screw junction fails before the wood/epoxy junction of the plug. That is, the screws would pull out without damage to the fiberglass. Obviously this pullout force can't really be calculated, but it seems like it should be less than the wood/epoxy junction of the plug, but there is some risk that the plug could pull out first and transfer the load to the fiberglass. One very important unknown to this approach is the quality of the wood/epoxy junction. If the wood surrounding the epoxy is weak, the plug may pull out of the hole before the screw pulls out of the plug. This would transfer the load to the fiberglass. So there are risks to this approach. Filling the hole with epoxy and encapsulating the slivers in epoxy should prevent water infiltration. Bigger Holes This idea is to drill larger holes in the fiberglass, so that if the epoxy plug were to pull out, it can without damaging the fiberglass. The holes would have to be sealed to prevent water infiltration, perhaps with gelcoat. The force to pull the plugs out is likely much greater than the original pullout force (1500 lbs vs. 210 lbs), but maybe this is not a bad thing; if a minor accident occurs (less than 1500 lbs), everything remains intact and I still go sailing that day. It would seem that this approach would protect the fiberglass as intended (although maybe a stainless steel rail gets bent or broken). New Holes The original holes could be filled with epoxy and abandoned. Three new holes would be drilled in the tabernacle base plate and the block, being sure to make holes in the fiberglass larger than the major diameter of the screws. This would closely replicate the original design. Care would have to be taken to prevent water infiltration. It would be interesting to get confirmation from Stan that the factory drills holds in the fiberglass that are larger than the screw diameter. Shorter Screws The holes would be filled with epoxy, drilled, and new, shorter screws threaded into the epoxy plug. The problem with this approach is that I don't have a way to calculate the pullout force of the screw from the epoxy. Since I am a novice at repairs of this sort, I again look to the list/forum for advice. I suspect that in a case like this, group-instinct trumps calculations. ----- Long Beach Island -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ ------------------------------ Message: 16 Date: Sun, 2 Aug 2020 22:27:40 -0400 From: "Graham Stewart" To: "'The Rhodes 22 Email List'" Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Rudder Bolt Hole Enlarged Message-ID: <034f01d6693d$ac08fcc0$041af640$@ca> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8" George: Might you epoxy in a tube, preferably stainless steel but aluminum might do, that has an opening that is the proper diameter. Graham Stewart Agile, Rodes 22, 1976 Kingston Ontario -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Gmorganflier Sent: Sunday, August 2, 2020 9:56 PM To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Rudder Bolt Hole Enlarged I took my rudder and rudder cheeks off today in preparation to paint them. The hole in the rudder where the pivot bolt goes through is quite enlarged....probably twice the diameter of the bolt. I noticed the plywood core where the hole goes through was wet. I feared maybe my entire rudder was waterlogged, but after turning the rudder upside down and leaving it in the sun, the hole appears to be drying up. There are no cracks or damaged areas which would allow water intrusion. The bolt hole seems to be the only way water is getting in and we did have rain yesterday. My question to those who are so much more experienced than me in boating repairs....what should I do to stop water from getting in the rudder through this bolt hole. Maybe enlarge the hole even more and epoxy some sort of bushing for the bolt to go through? I?m open for suggestions. Thanks, George Morgan 1986 R22 S/V Knotty Lady -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ ------------------------------ Message: 17 Date: Mon, 3 Aug 2020 04:31:55 -0700 (MST) From: Chris on LBI To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Reconnecting the Tabernacle Screws Following Sacrificial Failure Message-ID: <1596454315934-0.post at n5.nabble.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Graham, In thinking about drilling new holes, I was thinking that I would also drill new holes in the tabernacle base plate so the location of the base plate would not move. But your point about hole location raises an interesting additional problem for me that I had not considered. Each of the three existing holes in the mounting block below the base plate is now oblong, sort of like two holes slightly offset from one another in both the x and y axis. So I'll have to decide which of the two possible centers is the one I should use when remounting the tabernacle base plate. That is an interesting observation that Wood Slivers and Larger Holes are not mutually exclusive. I feel your pain relocating the base plate 3 times. When you did so, how did you repair the holes that were not located correctly? Also, do your screws bite into the fiberglass as well as the wood block underneath? Thanks, Chris ----- Long Beach Island -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ ------------------------------ Message: 18 Date: Mon, 3 Aug 2020 12:26:29 +0000 From: ROGER PIHLAJA To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Reconnecting the Tabernacle Screws Following Sacrificial Failure Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Chris, For the most part, your calculations are reasonable and the results are in the right ballpark, with one exception. I must push back on your assumption that the 3 screws are loaded evenly and therefore the total failure load is 3X the individual failure load. When the mast stepping/unstepping goes properly, this assumption might be OK. But, the very notion of something going wrong during the mast stepping/instepping implies these 3 screws are not evenly loaded. I would hypothesize a failure mechanism wherein an uneven load causes first one screw to fail, which overloads another, and then the third to fail in a cascading sequence. A more conservative design approach would call for each screw to be capable of supporting the entire load. Roger Pihlaja S/V Dynamic Equilibrium Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Graham Stewart Sent: Sunday, August 2, 2020 10:06 PM To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Reconnecting the Tabernacle Screws Following Sacrificial Failure Your calculations are impressive but in the end you probably need to go with what you are most comfortable. The discussion has been interesting to me and I now think I would do it differently than I did last time when I drilled out the hole, filled with epoxy and then drilled new holes. Option 1 to use slivers and epoxy and option 2 to drill larger holes are not mutually exclusive as I understand them and I think that combination is what I would go with. In that case I would want to maximize the proportion of wood slivers to epoxy. The epoxy would be only sufficient to seal the core and hold the slivers together. Not having the fiberglass overhanging the hole would likely reduce the damage to the skin should the plug pull out. The weakest link, I would think, would be the interface between the plug and the core material. Unless the core is damaged and the epoxy seeps into crevices I would think that the force required to pull the plug out would not be much greater than the force required to pull a screw out of solid wood under fiberglass. That is what I think but I could easily be entirely wrong. In this case you want a properly sealed but relatively weak bond. Using the slivers tightly packed strikes me as the best way to achieve this balance. I don't know how you could abandon the old holes and drill new ones without moving the base. I would not do that. When I rebuilt my deck I removed the mast foot, repaired and then painted the step along with the entire deck. I did not make careful note of exactly where the plate was attached thinking that is was centered on the step. Nope, it has to placed exactly in the right place or you will not be able to attach the slider for the pop top to raise and descend properly. I ended up doing this install three times before I got it right. Each time I had to raise and then lower the mast. After spending 7 years restoring the boat you can imagine how frustrating that was to be stopped at the moment that I would be able to raise the sails and go. The screws you have are, as I recall, much shorter than mine but if these are what Stan used I would stick with them. Good luck, Graham Stewart gstewart8 at cogeco.ca -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Chris on LBI Sent: Sunday, August 2, 2020 7:40 PM To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Reconnecting the Tabernacle Screws Following Sacrificial Failure This topic is a continuation of a different topic titled ?"Repair of Spider Cracks at Mast Step Tabernacle?. The subject matter of that topic quickly strayed from gelcoat repair to how to replace the tabernacle screws after they pull loose. I thought it would be good to highlight this subject matter with a new topic heading. I thank Graham Stewart, Rodger Pihlaja, Mike Riter, and Rick Lange all of whom weighed in on the original thread. Last week while lowering the mast, the three screws holding the tabernacle to the block above the cabin let loose when the mast was at an angle of about 45 degrees. A shroud had fouled and the resulting (unintended) forces pulled the screws out. In reading on this list/forum, I was relieved to learn that these screw connections were designed to fail to avoid more expensive damage to the plate and the cabin top. It also seems that the repair is very easy to accomplish. However, in asking advice regarding the repair and in doing some research, I'm undecided as to how the repair should be performed since I have conflicting information. I've started this new thread to focus specifically on reconnecting these three screws to the block below the tabernacle plate so that the sacrificial nature of the junction is preserved. The three screws on my boat are 3/16? stainless steel, 1? long, with 10 threads per inch. The mounting block below the tabernacle appears to be wood covered with fiberglass and gelcoat. The combination fiberglass and gelcoat appear to be about 1/4? thick. The stainless steel base of the tabernacle is 1/8? thick. The holes in the fiberglass are larger than the major diameter of the screws. Based on this information I estimate that about 5/8? of the screws were threaded into the wood block. I read somewhere on this list/forum that the block is typically pine. Using an online tool (https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/wood-screws-allowable-withdrawal-load-d_1815.html ) that calculates pullout force, I estimate that each of the three screws would pull out at about 70 pounds of upward force; 210 pounds total. I had planned to make the repair by filling the holes with epoxy and then drilling holes in the epoxy to receive the screws. Since there was some soft wood around the perimeter of the holes, I scraped it out as best I could, and noted that the new epoxy ?plug? would be larger in diameter than the holes in the fiberglass. That is, some of the epoxy plug would be underneath of the fiberglass. This led me to wonder at what force the plug would release from the surrounding wood because if it did release, it would transfer the load to the fiberglass above the plug. Apparently the way to estimate this force is to take the vertical surface area of the wood/epoxy plug and multiply it by the shear factor of a wood/epoxy joint (obviously an estimate). A few sources online use 800 psi as this shear factor. So using a 5/8? deep hole with a diameter of 5/16?, I get a pullout force of about 500 pounds per plug; 1500 pounds total. I assume that the pullout force of a screw from an epoxy plug is greater than 500 pounds but I can't find a way to estimate this. Although, if it were a steel pin (without threads), the shear factor would be estimated at 1600 psi. So with the threads the shear factor would be much great than this and thus the screw withdrawal force would be much greater than the plug withdrawal force. That is, the plug will pull out well before the screw pulls out of the plug. Unless of course it is a shorter screw. But without a way to calculate it, I would not know what length screw to use to achieve the desired pullout force. While a few days ago I was all set to start mixing up a batch of epoxy, now I'm not so sure. Using these calculations based on the assumptions indicated, the planned approach would change the original design in two very significant ways. First, the total pullout force would increase from 210 pounds to 1500 pounds. Second, with the epoxy repair, in the case of failure, the load would be transferred to the underside of the fiberglass which I assume the original design is intended to protect. That is, the original design sacrifices the wood/screw connection, the screws pull out, and the fiberglass is left unharmed. So now I am left contemplating four different options: Wood Slivers, Bigger Holes, New Holes, Shorter Screws Wood Slivers The idea would be to partially fill the holes with epoxy, and then pack the holes with wood slivers that would intentionally weaken the epoxy with the hope that the epoxy/screw junction fails before the wood/epoxy junction of the plug. That is, the screws would pull out without damage to the fiberglass. Obviously this pullout force can't really be calculated, but it seems like it should be less than the wood/epoxy junction of the plug, but there is some risk that the plug could pull out first and transfer the load to the fiberglass. One very important unknown to this approach is the quality of the wood/epoxy junction. If the wood surrounding the epoxy is weak, the plug may pull out of the hole before the screw pulls out of the plug. This would transfer the load to the fiberglass. So there are risks to this approach. Filling the hole with epoxy and encapsulating the slivers in epoxy should prevent water infiltration. Bigger Holes This idea is to drill larger holes in the fiberglass, so that if the epoxy plug were to pull out, it can without damaging the fiberglass. The holes would have to be sealed to prevent water infiltration, perhaps with gelcoat. The force to pull the plugs out is likely much greater than the original pullout force (1500 lbs vs. 210 lbs), but maybe this is not a bad thing; if a minor accident occurs (less than 1500 lbs), everything remains intact and I still go sailing that day. It would seem that this approach would protect the fiberglass as intended (although maybe a stainless steel rail gets bent or broken). New Holes The original holes could be filled with epoxy and abandoned. Three new holes would be drilled in the tabernacle base plate and the block, being sure to make holes in the fiberglass larger than the major diameter of the screws. This would closely replicate the original design. Care would have to be taken to prevent water infiltration. It would be interesting to get confirmation from Stan that the factory drills holds in the fiberglass that are larger than the screw diameter. Shorter Screws The holes would be filled with epoxy, drilled, and new, shorter screws threaded into the epoxy plug. The problem with this approach is that I don't have a way to calculate the pullout force of the screw from the epoxy. Since I am a novice at repairs of this sort, I again look to the list/forum for advice. I suspect that in a case like this, group-instinct trumps calculations. ----- Long Beach Island -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ ------------------------------ Message: 19 Date: Mon, 3 Aug 2020 12:50:29 +0000 From: ROGER PIHLAJA To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Rudder Bolt Hole Enlarged Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" George, I would drill out the hole to 2X it?s present diameter. Then, coat the ID with unthickened epoxy to seal it. After the unthickened epoxy has kicked off; but, not fully cured, fill the hole with epoxy thickened with WEST System 406 Colloidal Silica and 423 Graphite powder mixed in a 90%wt 406, 10%wt 423 ratio. The thickener mixture should be dry blended first, not mixed separately into the epoxy. The epoxy should be loaded with the thickener such that the mixture flows like thick pancake batter. Mix the epoxy resin and thickener first, then add the thickener mixture, and blend it such that all the powder is wetted out with no lumps or bubbles. After the thickened epoxy is fully cured, drill out a hole for the bolt, and you?re good to go. The 406/423 filler mixture will provide a very hard, abrasion resistant, lubricative bearing surface for the bolt to turn on. But, you won?t have any galling or dissimilar metal corrosion issues with the stainless steel bolt. By wait ing for the unthickened epoxy to kick off, but not fully cure, when you pour in the thickened epoxy, you will have a molecular and mechanical bond with the rudder substrate that will never fail. This repair will last a very long time. Roger Pihlaja S/V Dynamic Equilibrium Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Graham Stewart Sent: Sunday, August 2, 2020 10:27 PM To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Rudder Bolt Hole Enlarged George: Might you epoxy in a tube, preferably stainless steel but aluminum might do, that has an opening that is the proper diameter. Graham Stewart Agile, Rodes 22, 1976 Kingston Ontario -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Gmorganflier Sent: Sunday, August 2, 2020 9:56 PM To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Rudder Bolt Hole Enlarged I took my rudder and rudder cheeks off today in preparation to paint them. The hole in the rudder where the pivot bolt goes through is quite enlarged....probably twice the diameter of the bolt. I noticed the plywood core where the hole goes through was wet. I feared maybe my entire rudder was waterlogged, but after turning the rudder upside down and leaving it in the sun, the hole appears to be drying up. There are no cracks or damaged areas which would allow water intrusion. The bolt hole seems to be the only way water is getting in and we did have rain yesterday. My question to those who are so much more experienced than me in boating repairs....what should I do to stop water from getting in the rudder through this bolt hole. Maybe enlarge the hole even more and epoxy some sort of bushing for the bolt to go through? I?m open for suggestions. Thanks, George Morgan 1986 R22 S/V Knotty Lady -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ ------------------------------ Message: 20 Date: Mon, 3 Aug 2020 06:15:21 -0700 (MST) From: Gmorganflier To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Rudder Bolt Hole Enlarged Message-ID: <1596460521780-0.post at n5.nabble.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 Roger and Graham, Thanks for your responses. Roger....I like your solution...I?ll plan to do as you recommended. George Morgan -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ ------------------------------ Message: 21 Date: Mon, 3 Aug 2020 13:45:08 +0000 From: "Lowe, Rob" To: "rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org" , Mark West Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] mainsail problems Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Yes, make note of the wrap direction and the number of turns that the furling line makes on the drum. I'm glad I took photos of mine when I replaced my main this year. - rob ________________________________ From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of Mark West via Rhodes22-list Sent: Friday, July 31, 2020 5:28 PM To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] mainsail problems straight mast is best, last year working with Charles on show boats we found one of the end bushing screw backed out and was hanging up inside sail area of mast, note rotation of line and sail and # of wraps around shaft the line makes Mark -----Original Message----- From: gramille To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Sent: Fri, Jul 31, 2020 4:12 pm Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] mainsail problems The mast is coming down soon and I will report back with what is discovered! I did wonder if I may have overtightened the rear stay causing or making worse the problem? That would perhaps explain the worsening of the problem this season! G -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ ------------------------------ Subject: Digest Footer _______________________________________________ Rhodes22-list mailing list Rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org http://rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list ------------------------------ End of Rhodes22-list Digest, Vol 4230, Issue 1 ********************************************** From daysails at aol.com Wed Aug 5 13:35:23 2020 From: daysails at aol.com (daysails at aol.com) Date: Wed, 5 Aug 2020 17:35:23 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Epoxy References: <226385118.292790.1596648923668.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <226385118.292790.1596648923668@mail.yahoo.com> I thought I would give you your first reply. ?Actually your posts are so clear and detailed there is no reason to respond. ?So I will attach a picture taken yesterday ?just to remind us why we do spend so much time keeping these boats afloat -----Original Message----- From: Mark Whipple To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Sent: Wed, Aug 5, 2020 08:54 AM Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Epoxy I enjoy reading all of the opinions and advice offered on this list. Here are a few thoughts related to a recent set of threads. It seems I have a talent for making posts that get zero responses - let's see if that trend continues! I've used epoxy on a variety of boats over the years. When doing a total renovation on a 28' Pearson Triton, the cost of epoxy was getting up there. I did some research and tried some sources other than West Systems. I settled on using RAKA epoxy (http://www.raka.com/epoxy.html) for a few reasons. It is lower viscosity than West (granted, I haven't used West in years) making it easier to wet out fiberglass cloth and to saturate wood core; it is simpler to measure since it's two parts resin to one part hardener; it is less expensive than West. RAKA also sells a variety of epoxy types and additives. I also recall a phone conversation when I was ordering where the owner asked about my project so he could help me buy what I needed. I just thought it was good for people to know that there are alternatives. Regarding filling a hole with a reduced-strength epoxy mixture, you might try some of the additives that are used to make it easier to sand hardened epoxy. Two that come to mind are microballoons and glass bubbles. You could also add wood flour which I think would also reduce the strength of the epoxy. Wood flour is much finer than sawdust (which might also work). If you have a sander with an attached collection bag, you'll have wood flour if you sand hardwood with something like a 150 or 220 grit. Hope that helps! Mark -- Boston, MA 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* 1987 Nimble 30 *For Sale* 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 5ECF2030-2621-411E-B607-788DEF2284E7.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 29249 bytes Desc: not available URL: From sloopblueheron at gmail.com Wed Aug 5 13:51:56 2020 From: sloopblueheron at gmail.com (Rick Lange) Date: Wed, 5 Aug 2020 13:51:56 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Rhodes22-list Digest, Vol 4230, Issue 1 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Richard, It sounds like the wood under your mast step is rotten. In my '93 model, that wood was hardwood planking about a foot square and an inch thick. It was mated to the plywood deck core on three sides using 3M 5200 which kept the rot from spreading to the core. You may be able to save the fiberglass skin by removing the collar around the top hatch to access the rotten wood. Regards, Rick Lange From cknell at vt.edu Wed Aug 5 14:26:55 2020 From: cknell at vt.edu (Chris on LBI) Date: Wed, 5 Aug 2020 11:26:55 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Preparing for Isaias In-Reply-To: References: <5E5F5B71-0DF9-416F-AAF1-4E5C536873FF@gmail.com> Message-ID: <1596652015874-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Based on yesterday's experience when Isaias blew through, I would add one more item to the checklist: make sure the anchor is lashed to the bow rail. We had some good-sized waves when the windspeed got up into the 50s. All the rocking and rolling caused the anchor to jump out of its latched cradle. It then swung around for a few hours before it was safe enough to board the boat. The swinging anchor dangling from the bow had pulled a bolt out of the bow. This bolt holds a pinned fitting for the anchor and is one of three bolts that hold the chainplate for the jib. It is going to be tough to reach the spot where the bolt comes through the bow to put a washer and nut on the inside. As a side note, on my boat all three of these chainplate bolts fully penetrate the hull. None has a nut on the inside. They rely on the fiberglass to hold them in place ... which is probably OK since the forces are shear. But the anchor swinging in the waves pulled the bolt through the hole. And on a related topic I discovered a few years ago that none of the bolts that hold the ends of the aft railings have nuts on the inside. All six bolts (three on each side) penetrate the hull but are only threaded into the fiberglass. I added washers and nuts to each of them after a few pulled out. ----- Long Beach Island -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From gmorgan.flier at gmail.com Wed Aug 5 14:40:54 2020 From: gmorgan.flier at gmail.com (Gmorganflier) Date: Wed, 5 Aug 2020 11:40:54 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Epoxy In-Reply-To: References: <1596419730473-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <034f01d6693d$ac08fcc0$041af640$@ca> <036f01d66a17$3ec10ec0$bc432c40$@ca> <1596594010537-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <1596652854589-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Mark, Thanks for the info on epoxy. I?m very new to boating and I value all the info I gather from the list. George Morgan -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From cknell at vt.edu Wed Aug 5 14:50:57 2020 From: cknell at vt.edu (Chris on LBI) Date: Wed, 5 Aug 2020 11:50:57 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Preparing for Isaias In-Reply-To: References: <5E5F5B71-0DF9-416F-AAF1-4E5C536873FF@gmail.com> Message-ID: <1596653457806-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Based on yesterday's experience when Isaias blew through, I would add one more item to the checklist: make sure the anchor is firmly lashed to the bow rail. We had some good-sized waves when the windspeed got up into the 50s. All the rocking and rolling caused the anchor to jump out of its latched cradle. It then swung around for a few hours in the large waves before it was safe enough to board the boat. The swinging anchor dangling from the bow pulled a bolt out of the bow. This bolt holds a u-shaped pinned fitting that helps secure the anchor to the boat and is one of three bolts that hold the chainplate for the forward stay. It is going to be very tough to reach the spot where the bolt comes through the bow to put a washer and nut on the inside. As a side note, on my boat at least two of the three of these chainplate bolts fully penetrate the hull. Neither has a nut on the inside. They rely on the fiberglass to hold them in place ... which is probably fine since the forces are shear. But the anchor swinging wildly in all directions in the waves pulled the bolt through the hole. And as another aside, I discovered a few years ago that none of the bolts that hold the forward-ends of the aft railings had nuts on the inside. This is the point on each side where the aft rail returns to the rub rail. All six bolts (three on each side) penetrate the hull but are only threaded into the fiberglass. I added washers and nuts to each of them after a few pulled out. In this case, some of the typical forces are not shear ... like when the skipper leans against a windward rail. ----- Long Beach Island -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From gstewart8 at cogeco.ca Wed Aug 5 15:02:04 2020 From: gstewart8 at cogeco.ca (Graham Stewart) Date: Wed, 5 Aug 2020 15:02:04 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Rudder Bolt Hole Enlarged In-Reply-To: <1596625287038-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1596419730473-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <034f01d6693d$ac08fcc0$041af640$@ca> <036f01d66a17$3ec10ec0$bc432c40$@ca> <1596594010537-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <039b01d66aed$44adc2c0$ce094840$@ca> <1596625287038-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <03c001d66b5a$ec23dbd0$c46b9370$@ca> George: Great! There is always more than one way to skin a cat. Not that I have ever done that or would want to. Graham Stewart Agile, Rodes 22, 1976 Kingston Ontario -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Gmorganflier Sent: Wednesday, August 5, 2020 7:01 AM To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Rudder Bolt Hole Enlarged Graham, This morning I used a tapered wooden peg, tapped it into the existing hole and then cut it off flush with the rudder. I use a forstner bit twice the size of the original hole centering it on the wood peg and it worked great. I have a nice hole to use Roger?s technique on and I was pleasantly surprised to find dry core out from the original hole. George Morgan S/V Knotty Lady -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From gstewart8 at cogeco.ca Wed Aug 5 15:33:09 2020 From: gstewart8 at cogeco.ca (Graham Stewart) Date: Wed, 5 Aug 2020 15:33:09 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Preparing for Isaias In-Reply-To: <1596652015874-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <5E5F5B71-0DF9-416F-AAF1-4E5C536873FF@gmail.com> <1596652015874-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <03c901d66b5f$43f149c0$cbd3dd40$@ca> On my boat none of the bolts holding the genoa rail were not through bolted as was the case for the transom rings. In the latter case either the nuts fell off or were never installed. In the case of the genoa track the bolts were too short to allow for nuts so I think that was by design. In spite of the fact that the track had held for 40 years with no sign of letting go I still decided that I would sleep better with nuts and washers installed so I made that alteration. The other problem with bolds being screwed directly into the fiberglass is that cracks developed in the gel coat radiating out from the holes that only became visible when I removed the track to paint the deck. Slightly enlarging the hole for the bolts to slide through and champhering the gelcoat at the hole should alleviate that problem - but I don't intend to remove the track to know for sure. Graham Stewart Agile, Rodes 22, 1976 Kingston Ontario -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Chris on LBI Sent: Wednesday, August 5, 2020 2:27 PM To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Preparing for Isaias Based on yesterday's experience when Isaias blew through, I would add one more item to the checklist: make sure the anchor is lashed to the bow rail. We had some good-sized waves when the windspeed got up into the 50s. All the rocking and rolling caused the anchor to jump out of its latched cradle. It then swung around for a few hours before it was safe enough to board the boat. The swinging anchor dangling from the bow had pulled a bolt out of the bow. This bolt holds a pinned fitting for the anchor and is one of three bolts that hold the chainplate for the jib. It is going to be tough to reach the spot where the bolt comes through the bow to put a washer and nut on the inside. As a side note, on my boat all three of these chainplate bolts fully penetrate the hull. None has a nut on the inside. They rely on the fiberglass to hold them in place ... which is probably OK since the forces are shear. But the anchor swinging in the waves pulled the bolt through the hole. And on a related topic I discovered a few years ago that none of the bolts that hold the ends of the aft railings have nuts on the inside. All six bolts (three on each side) penetrate the hull but are only threaded into the fiberglass. I added washers and nuts to each of them after a few pulled out. ----- Long Beach Island -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From cknell at vt.edu Wed Aug 5 17:56:05 2020 From: cknell at vt.edu (Chris on LBI) Date: Wed, 5 Aug 2020 14:56:05 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Preparing for Isaias In-Reply-To: <03c901d66b5f$43f149c0$cbd3dd40$@ca> References: <5E5F5B71-0DF9-416F-AAF1-4E5C536873FF@gmail.com> <03c901d66b5f$43f149c0$cbd3dd40$@ca> Message-ID: <1596664565522-0.post@n5.nabble.com> In my case, the threads on these rail bolts are fine pitched (maybe 20/inch). My instinct would be to use more coarsely threaded bolts (or maybe screws) in fiberglass if I were not going to put a nut on the inside. But I really don't know much about working with fiberglass. ----- Long Beach Island -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From luis.guzman.ve at gmail.com Wed Aug 5 19:44:45 2020 From: luis.guzman.ve at gmail.com (luis.guzman.ve) Date: Wed, 05 Aug 2020 19:44:45 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Reconnecting the Tabernacle Screws Following Sacrificial Failure In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <5f2b4471.1c69fb81.356ef.f268@mx.google.com> What I have done in the past is pack the hole with wood sticks ( kind of like huge tooth picks ) saturated in wood glue, packed in there tight. After everything is dry, cut the sticks level with the surface, grind the top with a dremel so you have like a 1/8 of an inch deep hole. Fill with epoxy, and when the epoxy dries up, you can drill the holes for the screws. Use some silicone when setting the base screws to keep everything dry there.LuisS/V AquetxaliSent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device -------- Original message --------From: Jesse Shumaker Date: 8/4/20 7:49 AM (GMT-05:00) To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Reconnecting the Tabernacle Screws Following ? Sacrificial Failure Chris, that would be great if you could take some photos along the way andlet us know how your project goes.? I'm going to be installing a halyardorganizer underneath the tabernacle this fall, so this discussion aboutmounting the screws is timely.? Your thinking and the advice from the groupon this topic has been very informative.? Good luck on your project!Jesse ShumakerS/V ZephyrOn Mon, Aug 3, 2020 at 6:22 PM Chris on LBI wrote:> Hey!>> I forgot to ask one important question:>> What epoxy would the list recommend? I have Marine-Tex, but from what I> have> read, that is not going to be hard enough.>> Thanks,> Chris>>>>> -----> Long Beach Island> --> Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/> From peter at sunnybeeches.com Wed Aug 5 21:22:33 2020 From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg) Date: Wed, 5 Aug 2020 21:22:33 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Website Development In-Reply-To: References: <4A266C50-AD5A-4431-B153-1FFC7E2FCACB@sunnybeeches.com> <03E72EF8-F8C8-4770-8D95-B9E4251315CB@sunnybeeches.com> Message-ID: <9E3B37C3-31E4-4DE2-BC4C-46B2319ADA54@sunnybeeches.com> It being summertime, I?ve been busy with this and that (vegetable garden, tropical storms), and the subject of website development has slid to the back burner, but not entirely off the stove. So, the pot is simmering on a low boil, and this is where I think we stand: Luis (Guzm?n) and I have have both said that we are willing to put in time to develop a new website for the Rhodes 22 community. A few other people have volunteered to lend a hand, but I don?t recall anyone else offering to take a leadership role. (Please chime in if there?s someone I?ve overlooked.) My experience with website development is limited to hand-coded HTML and CSS. This is suitable for static content, like most of the existing Rhodes 22 website. Luis knows more sophisticated web development tools that would allow for the development of more interactive features. There seems to be some demand among the membership for such features. My approach would be relatively easy for a non-professional to maintain, but would have limited functionality. The work that Luis might do could add a lot of nice bells and whistles to the website, but would likely take professional level skills to maintain. The discussion we?ve had so far about this has to some extent been that we need to choose one path or the other. But, perhaps that?s not the case. Perhaps we can do both. I can create static content using HTML and CSS (hopefully with some help from volunteers), Luis can create the wiz-bang features, and the two efforts can be integrated. I have no idea how this integration might happen, so Luis would have to comment on that aspect. And, while Mike has probably been reticent on purpose, it would be nice to get some commitment from him that he is willing to shephard this new creation onto the official Rhodes22.org website when the time comes. I?ve continued my work of converting the old content of the website to a new format, recently working on the picture gallery. The results can be seen at http://sunnybeeches.com/rhodes22 ?Peter From wp.barry at icloud.com Wed Aug 5 21:27:12 2020 From: wp.barry at icloud.com (William Barry) Date: Wed, 5 Aug 2020 21:27:12 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Website Development In-Reply-To: <9E3B37C3-31E4-4DE2-BC4C-46B2319ADA54@sunnybeeches.com> References: <9E3B37C3-31E4-4DE2-BC4C-46B2319ADA54@sunnybeeches.com> Message-ID: I find it surprising that this page still stands as I left it this many years later!! ?????????- William Barry wp.barry at icloud.com > On Aug 5, 2020, at 21:23, Peter Nyberg wrote: > > ?It being summertime, I?ve been busy with this and that (vegetable garden, tropical storms), and the subject of website development has slid to the back burner, but not entirely off the stove. > > So, the pot is simmering on a low boil, and this is where I think we stand: > > Luis (Guzm?n) and I have have both said that we are willing to put in time to develop a new website for the Rhodes 22 community. A few other people have volunteered to lend a hand, but I don?t recall anyone else offering to take a leadership role. (Please chime in if there?s someone I?ve overlooked.) > > My experience with website development is limited to hand-coded HTML and CSS. This is suitable for static content, like most of the existing Rhodes 22 website. > > Luis knows more sophisticated web development tools that would allow for the development of more interactive features. There seems to be some demand among the membership for such features. > > My approach would be relatively easy for a non-professional to maintain, but would have limited functionality. The work that Luis might do could add a lot of nice bells and whistles to the website, but would likely take professional level skills to maintain. > > The discussion we?ve had so far about this has to some extent been that we need to choose one path or the other. But, perhaps that?s not the case. > > Perhaps we can do both. I can create static content using HTML and CSS (hopefully with some help from volunteers), Luis can create the wiz-bang features, and the two efforts can be integrated. > > I have no idea how this integration might happen, so Luis would have to comment on that aspect. > > And, while Mike has probably been reticent on purpose, it would be nice to get some commitment from him that he is willing to shephard this new creation onto the official Rhodes22.org website when the time comes. > > I?ve continued my work of converting the old content of the website to a new format, recently working on the picture gallery. The results can be seen at http://sunnybeeches.com/rhodes22 > > ?Peter > > From luis.guzman.ve at gmail.com Wed Aug 5 21:35:55 2020 From: luis.guzman.ve at gmail.com (luis.guzman.ve) Date: Wed, 05 Aug 2020 21:35:55 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Website Development In-Reply-To: <9E3B37C3-31E4-4DE2-BC4C-46B2319ADA54@sunnybeeches.com> Message-ID: <5f2b5e7f.1c69fb81.4e6f3.442f@mx.google.com> Peter,A template can be created using html and css.? The html template would have the header, navigation, footer, and whatever areas are common to all the pages.?The main content or non common area, can then be static, or generated by PHP on the server side.?So, we can marry both static and dynamic.?LuisS/V AquetxaliSent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device -------- Original message --------From: Peter Nyberg Date: 8/5/20 9:23 PM (GMT-05:00) To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Website Development It being summertime, I?ve been busy with this and that (vegetable garden, tropical storms), and the subject of website development has slid to the back burner, but not entirely off the stove.So, the pot is simmering on a low boil, and this is where I think we stand:Luis (Guzm?n) and I have have both said that we are willing to put in time to develop a new website for the Rhodes 22 community.? A few other people have volunteered to lend a hand, but I don?t recall anyone else offering to take a leadership role. (Please chime in if there?s someone I?ve overlooked.)My experience with website development is limited to hand-coded HTML and CSS.? This is suitable for static content, like most of the existing Rhodes 22 website.? Luis knows more sophisticated web development tools that would allow for the development of more interactive features.? There seems to be some demand among the membership for such features.My approach would be relatively easy for a non-professional to maintain, but would have limited functionality.? The work that Luis might do could add a lot of nice bells and whistles to the website, but would likely take professional level skills to maintain.The discussion we?ve had so far about this has to some extent been that we need to choose one path or the other.? But, perhaps that?s not the case.Perhaps we can do both.? I can create static content using HTML and CSS (hopefully with some help from volunteers), Luis can create the wiz-bang features, and the two efforts can be integrated.I have no idea how this integration might happen, so Luis would have to comment on that aspect.And, while Mike has probably been reticent on purpose, it would be nice to get some commitment from him that he is willing to shephard this new creation onto the official Rhodes22.org website when the time comes.I?ve continued my work of converting the old content of the website to a new format, recently working on the picture gallery.? The results can be seen at http://sunnybeeches.com/rhodes22?Peter From peter at sunnybeeches.com Wed Aug 5 22:25:44 2020 From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg) Date: Wed, 5 Aug 2020 22:25:44 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Website Development In-Reply-To: References: <9E3B37C3-31E4-4DE2-BC4C-46B2319ADA54@sunnybeeches.com> Message-ID: <859CCAC9-B851-44A6-A6AC-B97751EBA25D@sunnybeeches.com> Inertia is a powerful force. I?m sorry that I don?t recognize your name. What part of the original website were you responsible for? ?Peter > On Aug 5, 2020, at 9:27 PM, William Barry via Rhodes22-list wrote: > > I find it surprising that this page still stands as I left it this many years later!! > > ?????????- > William Barry > wp.barry at icloud.com > >> On Aug 5, 2020, at 21:23, Peter Nyberg wrote: >> >> ?It being summertime, I?ve been busy with this and that (vegetable garden, tropical storms), and the subject of website development has slid to the back burner, but not entirely off the stove. >> >> So, the pot is simmering on a low boil, and this is where I think we stand: >> >> Luis (Guzm?n) and I have have both said that we are willing to put in time to develop a new website for the Rhodes 22 community. A few other people have volunteered to lend a hand, but I don?t recall anyone else offering to take a leadership role. (Please chime in if there?s someone I?ve overlooked.) >> >> My experience with website development is limited to hand-coded HTML and CSS. This is suitable for static content, like most of the existing Rhodes 22 website. >> >> Luis knows more sophisticated web development tools that would allow for the development of more interactive features. There seems to be some demand among the membership for such features. >> >> My approach would be relatively easy for a non-professional to maintain, but would have limited functionality. The work that Luis might do could add a lot of nice bells and whistles to the website, but would likely take professional level skills to maintain. >> >> The discussion we?ve had so far about this has to some extent been that we need to choose one path or the other. But, perhaps that?s not the case. >> >> Perhaps we can do both. I can create static content using HTML and CSS (hopefully with some help from volunteers), Luis can create the wiz-bang features, and the two efforts can be integrated. >> >> I have no idea how this integration might happen, so Luis would have to comment on that aspect. >> >> And, while Mike has probably been reticent on purpose, it would be nice to get some commitment from him that he is willing to shephard this new creation onto the official Rhodes22.org website when the time comes. >> >> I?ve continued my work of converting the old content of the website to a new format, recently working on the picture gallery. The results can be seen at http://sunnybeeches.com/rhodes22 >> >> ?Peter >> >> From wp.barry at icloud.com Wed Aug 5 22:35:43 2020 From: wp.barry at icloud.com (William Barry) Date: Wed, 5 Aug 2020 22:35:43 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Website Development In-Reply-To: <859CCAC9-B851-44A6-A6AC-B97751EBA25D@sunnybeeches.com> References: <859CCAC9-B851-44A6-A6AC-B97751EBA25D@sunnybeeches.com> Message-ID: <739C81F6-37AE-4B0B-BC70-3AEA0B28767D@icloud.com> I put together The current layout, design, colors, links, etc. Content came from members all over. Designed it with Michael Meltzer in circa early 2000s. ?????????- William Barry wp.barry at icloud.com > On Aug 5, 2020, at 22:26, Peter Nyberg wrote: > > ?Inertia is a powerful force. I?m sorry that I don?t recognize your name. What part of the original website were you responsible for? > > ?Peter > > >> On Aug 5, 2020, at 9:27 PM, William Barry via Rhodes22-list wrote: >> >> I find it surprising that this page still stands as I left it this many years later!! >> >> ?????????- >> William Barry >> wp.barry at icloud.com >> >>>> On Aug 5, 2020, at 21:23, Peter Nyberg wrote: >>> >>> ?It being summertime, I?ve been busy with this and that (vegetable garden, tropical storms), and the subject of website development has slid to the back burner, but not entirely off the stove. >>> >>> So, the pot is simmering on a low boil, and this is where I think we stand: >>> >>> Luis (Guzm?n) and I have have both said that we are willing to put in time to develop a new website for the Rhodes 22 community. A few other people have volunteered to lend a hand, but I don?t recall anyone else offering to take a leadership role. (Please chime in if there?s someone I?ve overlooked.) >>> >>> My experience with website development is limited to hand-coded HTML and CSS. This is suitable for static content, like most of the existing Rhodes 22 website. >>> >>> Luis knows more sophisticated web development tools that would allow for the development of more interactive features. There seems to be some demand among the membership for such features. >>> >>> My approach would be relatively easy for a non-professional to maintain, but would have limited functionality. The work that Luis might do could add a lot of nice bells and whistles to the website, but would likely take professional level skills to maintain. >>> >>> The discussion we?ve had so far about this has to some extent been that we need to choose one path or the other. But, perhaps that?s not the case. >>> >>> Perhaps we can do both. I can create static content using HTML and CSS (hopefully with some help from volunteers), Luis can create the wiz-bang features, and the two efforts can be integrated. >>> >>> I have no idea how this integration might happen, so Luis would have to comment on that aspect. >>> >>> And, while Mike has probably been reticent on purpose, it would be nice to get some commitment from him that he is willing to shephard this new creation onto the official Rhodes22.org website when the time comes. >>> >>> I?ve continued my work of converting the old content of the website to a new format, recently working on the picture gallery. The results can be seen at http://sunnybeeches.com/rhodes22 >>> >>> ?Peter >>> >>> > From mike at traildesign.com Thu Aug 6 00:40:24 2020 From: mike at traildesign.com (Mike Riter) Date: Thu, 6 Aug 2020 00:40:24 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Epoxy In-Reply-To: <1596652854589-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1596419730473-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <034f01d6693d$ac08fcc0$041af640$@ca> <036f01d66a17$3ec10ec0$bc432c40$@ca> <1596594010537-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1596652854589-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: Good info Mark! Thanks for posting it. Michael Riter President, Trail Design Specialists, Inc. Lead Instructor, Trail Master and mechanized training mike at traildesign.com 678-410-8021 On Wed, Aug 5, 2020 at 2:40 PM Gmorganflier wrote: > Mark, > > Thanks for the info on epoxy. I?m very new to boating and I value all the > info I gather from the list. > > George Morgan > > > > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > From gramille at tds.net Thu Aug 6 09:55:35 2020 From: gramille at tds.net (gramille) Date: Thu, 6 Aug 2020 06:55:35 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] mainsail problems In-Reply-To: <1596642738072-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1595770984728-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <40313db9-aff4-7af3-92e7-819127320534@generalboats.com> <1595907004252-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1881679227.5809182.1595941736437@mail.yahoo.com> <1595944556582-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1595956132233-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <000d01d6650d$8cc158f0$a6440ad0$@ebsmed.com> <1596642738072-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <1596722135557-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Thanks for the photos Joe. I have managed a reasonable tear repair on the sail from a bosuns chair and will be testing it out this weekend. I hope not to have to take the mast down until the end of the season if I can avoid any more bunching problems. Combining everyone's advice will hopefully do the trick! I am thinking that furling and unfurling from the lower position may be the key? I will let everyone know how it goes. Thanks for all the responses - I love Da List! -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From talmorin at hotmail.com Thu Aug 6 09:58:26 2020 From: talmorin at hotmail.com (Thomas s) Date: Thu, 6 Aug 2020 13:58:26 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] mainsail problems In-Reply-To: <1596722135557-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1595770984728-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <40313db9-aff4-7af3-92e7-819127320534@generalboats.com> <1595907004252-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1881679227.5809182.1595941736437@mail.yahoo.com> <1595944556582-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1595956132233-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <000d01d6650d$8cc158f0$a6440ad0$@ebsmed.com> <1596642738072-0.post@n5.nabble.com>,<1596722135557-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: Don't leave us hanging! How did you repair the tear? Tom S/V Just Bent ________________________________ From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of gramille Sent: Thursday, August 6, 2020 8:55 AM To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] mainsail problems Thanks for the photos Joe. I have managed a reasonable tear repair on the sail from a bosuns chair and will be testing it out this weekend. I hope not to have to take the mast down until the end of the season if I can avoid any more bunching problems. Combining everyone's advice will hopefully do the trick! I am thinking that furling and unfurling from the lower position may be the key? I will let everyone know how it goes. Thanks for all the responses - I love Da List! -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From dedallas at mac.com Thu Aug 6 10:20:55 2020 From: dedallas at mac.com (dedallas) Date: Thu, 6 Aug 2020 07:20:55 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Boat Cover: Thought I saw one for sale? Message-ID: <1596723655080-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Hello folks, I hope all are well and getting lots of sailing in this summer. A few weeks ago (either June or July) I believe someone posted a note that they had a mast up boat cover for sale for around $750 if I remember correctly. I can't find the original post, and am very interested in purchasing a cover. If the original poster sees this entry and can reply I would really appreciate it. I'm hoping to get a cover for the fall. Thanks all and take care, Dave Dallas Mist or Dew -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From cjlowe at sssnet.com Thu Aug 6 10:40:48 2020 From: cjlowe at sssnet.com (cjlowe at sssnet.com) Date: Thu, 6 Aug 2020 10:40:48 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] mainsail problems In-Reply-To: <1596722135557-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1595770984728-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <40313db9-aff4-7af3-92e7-819127320534@generalboats.com> <1595907004252-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1881679227.5809182.1595941736437@mail.yahoo.com> <1595944556582-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1595956132233-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <000d01d6650d$8cc158f0$a6440ad0$@ebsmed.com> <1596642738072-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1596722135557-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <56735.24.140.30.102.1596724848.squirrel@quickpop.sssnet.com> a few weeks ago, I loosened my backstay so as to not leave the rig loaded so hard while just sitting in the slip. then promptly forgot about it. The sail was a little harder to furl, because it was bunching up at the bottom . Went for a sail yesterday and tightened it back up The sail furled and unfurled noticeably better. You might want to try different tensions on your backstay to see if it helps your cause. Jerry Lowe Thanks for the photos Joe. > I have managed a reasonable tear repair on the sail from a bosuns chair > and > will be testing it out this weekend. I hope not to have to take the mast > down until the end of the season if I can avoid any more bunching > problems. > Combining everyone's advice will hopefully do the trick! > I am thinking that furling and unfurling from the lower position may be > the > key? > I will let everyone know how it goes. > Thanks for all the responses - I love Da List! > > > > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > From gstewart8 at cogeco.ca Fri Aug 7 09:05:34 2020 From: gstewart8 at cogeco.ca (Graham Stewart) Date: Fri, 7 Aug 2020 09:05:34 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] RLazy Jacks In-Reply-To: <03c901d66b5f$43f149c0$cbd3dd40$@ca> References: <5E5F5B71-0DF9-416F-AAF1-4E5C536873FF@gmail.com> <1596652015874-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <03c901d66b5f$43f149c0$cbd3dd40$@ca> Message-ID: <002901d66cbb$72a4b790$57ee26b0$@ca> I am wondering if anyone with the standard non-IMF rig has installed lazy jacks with or without the sail pack cover and, if so, what their experience has been like. Any advice you might offer would be welcomed. Graham Stewart Agile, Rodes 22, 1976 Kingston Ontario From seanallen1206 at gmail.com Fri Aug 7 09:08:41 2020 From: seanallen1206 at gmail.com (Sean Allen) Date: Fri, 7 Aug 2020 09:08:41 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Rhodes 22 For Sale - Kind of Message-ID: It is with great sorrow that I post an offer to purchase a recently recycled Rhodes 22 for sale. A few weeks ago, I lowered the engine on the motorized mount and heard a 'crack'. I motored back to the marina and lifted the engine out, hearing another 'crack' - never a good feeling. Looking overboard I saw a hole about the size of a quarter in the transom. After further investigation I believe that the motor got stuck in its track, some slack in the winch was created, and then it dropped smacking the transom in the same spot where the bolt holding the winch was mounted. That force of the pull from the winch with the push from the outboard popped the bolt and washer through the hull. Leaving me sorely disappointed as I had enjoyed the season and my new Rhodes 22 thoroughly until then. As painful as this is, I don't think I have the time to do the repair now and that my season is done. I'll probably fix the fiberglass over the fall and winter, however I thought there might be someone on the list who could take advantage of an offer that I would, if I were in different circumstances. I would take $4,000 for the boat, trailer, and engine if anyone is interested - but the sale would need to be in the next 30 days. My price is firm, I think everyone on the list can appreciate the value of a newer boat and that the damage is going to be a matter of finding the time and some light elbow grease.I'm trying to be realistic about my schedule which will prolong the repair. *For Sale:* 1987 Rhodes 22' recycled in 2015 (with certificate for inspection for an interested buyer), with 6hp Johnson seahorse. Currently sitting on her trailer on the NJ shore (Barnegat Bay). She was on the hard for the recent storm and there was no damage from that. All the usual Rhodes goodies, including the traveler bar, winch and motorized lift (which may need to be removed to fix the damage, or not; the winch is in good shape i think), connection between rudder and outboard, bimini top, furling main, furling 170 genoa, fully enclosed hear, cushions in good shape, etc. It was recycled 5 years ago so that probably answers a lot of questions about what the boat has and what condition it is in, other than above and below. Other than the damage described above - I just noticed some other dings on the front of the hull - including the bow eye - I think the marina was a little rough pulling her in possibly. If anyone is interested I can take photos of that and send them privately. See attached some pictures -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_2921.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 290537 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_2919.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 159451 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_2887.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 346814 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_2914.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 350676 bytes Desc: not available URL: From njcassie at optonline.net Fri Aug 7 09:21:52 2020 From: njcassie at optonline.net (Nancy) Date: Fri, 7 Aug 2020 09:21:52 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] RLazy Jacks In-Reply-To: <002901d66cbb$72a4b790$57ee26b0$@ca> References: <002901d66cbb$72a4b790$57ee26b0$@ca> Message-ID: We lost a swivel seat during the storm that sits at the stern. Does anyone know how to replace it? Item number and where to purchase? Also, our hand held remote that works with switch to operate winch that lowers and raiseS engine stopped working due to salt water contamination. We ordered a used remote on eBay as it was the only one we could find that looks the same. Do you think it will need to somehow sync up or should the same model work on existing electronics. Winds must have really rocked boat around. Water in cabin doesn?t appear to come from leaking windows. Could it have come though sides of pop top? Thanks for any help! Nancy Cunningham Northport NY Sent from my iPhone > On Aug 7, 2020, at 9:05 AM, Graham Stewart wrote: > > ?I am wondering if anyone with the standard non-IMF rig has installed lazy > jacks with or without the sail pack cover and, if so, what their experience > has been like. Any advice you might offer would be welcomed. > > Graham Stewart > Agile, Rodes 22, 1976 > Kingston Ontario > From ric at stottarchitecture.com Fri Aug 7 09:41:55 2020 From: ric at stottarchitecture.com (Richard Stott) Date: Fri, 7 Aug 2020 09:41:55 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] RLazy Jacks In-Reply-To: <002901d66cbb$72a4b790$57ee26b0$@ca> References: <5E5F5B71-0DF9-416F-AAF1-4E5C536873FF@gmail.com> <1596652015874-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <03c901d66b5f$43f149c0$cbd3dd40$@ca> <002901d66cbb$72a4b790$57ee26b0$@ca> Message-ID: <1CDE2EB8-1259-4B1F-93C5-1C35E22D11D2@stottarchitecture.com> I have a Continental rig and have contemplated lazy jacks or stack-pac. I have used both on larger boats, a Saber 42 and a HInterhauler 42 The Stack-pac would be my choice and the easiest to use. Since $$ is always a concern, and I have more important priorities, I have learned to flake the sail from the mast as I drop it. I tie off the front end then shift the folds from stern to bow. Of course having a helper is great, but I sail a lot by myself and my wife is too short to reach the boom unless i lower the T lift. Also, I just like the way the boat looks with a nice flat sail cover. IMF is easy and cruisy, but I?ll sail away from any IMF Rhodes 22. Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP www.stottarchitecture.com Office 631-283-1777 Cell 516-965-3164 > On Aug 7, 2020, at 9:05 AM, Graham Stewart wrote: > > I am wondering if anyone with the standard non-IMF rig has installed lazy > jacks with or without the sail pack cover and, if so, what their experience > has been like. Any advice you might offer would be welcomed. > > Graham Stewart > Agile, Rodes 22, 1976 > Kingston Ontario > From luis.guzman.ve at gmail.com Fri Aug 7 10:41:26 2020 From: luis.guzman.ve at gmail.com (Luis Guzman) Date: Fri, 7 Aug 2020 10:41:26 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Rhodes 22 For Sale - Kind of In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Did you contact the insurance company? They may cover the repair. Luis A. Guzm?n S/V Aquetxali > On Aug 7, 2020, at 9:08 AM, Sean Allen wrote: > > It is with great sorrow that I post an offer to purchase a recently > recycled Rhodes 22 for sale. > > A few weeks ago, I lowered the engine on the motorized mount and heard a > 'crack'. I motored back to the marina and lifted the engine out, hearing > another 'crack' - never a good feeling. > > Looking overboard I saw a hole about the size of a quarter in the transom. > After further investigation I believe that the motor got stuck in its > track, some slack in the winch was created, and then it dropped smacking > the transom in the same spot where the bolt holding the winch was mounted. > That force of the pull from the winch with the push from the outboard > popped the bolt and washer through the hull. Leaving me sorely disappointed > as I had enjoyed the season and my new Rhodes 22 thoroughly until then. > > As painful as this is, I don't think I have the time to do the repair now > and that my season is done. I'll probably fix the fiberglass over the fall > and winter, however I thought there might be someone on the list who could > take advantage of an offer that I would, if I were in different > circumstances. > > I would take $4,000 for the boat, trailer, and engine if anyone is > interested - but the sale would need to be in the next 30 days. > > My price is firm, I think everyone on the list can appreciate the value of > a newer boat and that the damage is going to be a matter of finding the > time and some light elbow grease.I'm trying to be realistic about my > schedule which will prolong the repair. > > *For Sale:* > 1987 Rhodes 22' recycled in 2015 (with certificate for inspection for an > interested buyer), with 6hp Johnson seahorse. > > Currently sitting on her trailer on the NJ shore (Barnegat Bay). She was on > the hard for the recent storm and there was no damage from that. > > All the usual Rhodes goodies, including the traveler bar, winch and > motorized lift (which may need to be removed to fix the damage, or not; the > winch is in good shape i think), connection between rudder and outboard, > bimini top, furling main, furling 170 genoa, fully enclosed hear, cushions > in good shape, etc. > > It was recycled 5 years ago so that probably answers a lot of questions > about what the boat has and what condition it is in, other than above and > below. > > Other than the damage described above - I just noticed some other dings on > the front of the hull - including the bow eye - I think the marina was a > little rough pulling her in possibly. If anyone is interested I can take > photos of that and send them privately. > > See attached some pictures > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: IMG_2921.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 290537 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: IMG_2919.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 159451 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: IMG_2887.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 346814 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: IMG_2914.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 350676 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: From gramille at tds.net Fri Aug 7 11:31:25 2020 From: gramille at tds.net (gramille) Date: Fri, 7 Aug 2020 08:31:25 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] mainsail problems In-Reply-To: <56735.24.140.30.102.1596724848.squirrel@quickpop.sssnet.com> References: <1595770984728-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <40313db9-aff4-7af3-92e7-819127320534@generalboats.com> <1595907004252-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1881679227.5809182.1595941736437@mail.yahoo.com> <1595944556582-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1595956132233-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <000d01d6650d$8cc158f0$a6440ad0$@ebsmed.com> <1596642738072-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1596722135557-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <56735.24.140.30.102.1596724848.squirrel@quickpop.sssnet.com> Message-ID: <1596814285816-0.post@n5.nabble.com> A local sailmaker went aloft. I was not there but suspect it may be just a stick on patch. I am going out in the boat tomorrow to test all this advice, especially the backstay tension. I will report back. Thanks again everyone. Graham -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com Fri Aug 7 21:23:59 2020 From: jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com (JeffSmith) Date: Fri, 7 Aug 2020 18:23:59 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Boat Cover: Thought I saw one for sale? In-Reply-To: <1596723655080-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1596723655080-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <1596849839912-0.post@n5.nabble.com> 1Hi Dave, Yes I have a mast up boat cover for sale for $750. It seems in excellent shape, but I will inspect further and send pix of the panels uinstalled, if you are interested. ----- Jeff Smith 2009 R22 #101 RADIANT Atlantic Highlands Municpal Harbor Atlantic Highlands, NJ -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From mark at whipplefamily.com Fri Aug 7 21:47:51 2020 From: mark at whipplefamily.com (Mark Whipple) Date: Fri, 7 Aug 2020 21:47:51 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Rhodes 22 For Sale - Kind of In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Sean, Sorry to hear about the difficulties with you Rhodes 22. I have also experienced a season-ending gear failure: first when the heat exchanger blew out and then, after I fixed it with an expensive replacement, the engine died. I do understand being overwhelmed by the potential repair. That said, this may not be the best time to sell a boat (says the guy with two for sale). You don't have to fix it right away. If you keep it until next Spring you can then decide if you want to sell it and if you do, the market will hopefully be better. Or maybe you'll happen to get it fixed in the meantime and you'll have a great sailboat to enjoy again. Just my $.02. Mark -- Boston, MA 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* 1987 Nimble 30 *For Sale* 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* On Fri, Aug 7, 2020 at 9:08 AM Sean Allen wrote: > It is with great sorrow that I post an offer to purchase a recently > recycled Rhodes 22 for sale. > > A few weeks ago, I lowered the engine on the motorized mount and heard a > 'crack'. I motored back to the marina and lifted the engine out, hearing > another 'crack' - never a good feeling. > > Looking overboard I saw a hole about the size of a quarter in the transom. > After further investigation I believe that the motor got stuck in its > track, some slack in the winch was created, and then it dropped smacking > the transom in the same spot where the bolt holding the winch was mounted. > That force of the pull from the winch with the push from the outboard > popped the bolt and washer through the hull. Leaving me sorely disappointed > as I had enjoyed the season and my new Rhodes 22 thoroughly until then. > > As painful as this is, I don't think I have the time to do the repair now > and that my season is done. I'll probably fix the fiberglass over the fall > and winter, however I thought there might be someone on the list who could > take advantage of an offer that I would, if I were in different > circumstances. > > I would take $4,000 for the boat, trailer, and engine if anyone is > interested - but the sale would need to be in the next 30 days. > > My price is firm, I think everyone on the list can appreciate the value of > a newer boat and that the damage is going to be a matter of finding the > time and some light elbow grease.I'm trying to be realistic about my > schedule which will prolong the repair. > > *For Sale:* > 1987 Rhodes 22' recycled in 2015 (with certificate for inspection for an > interested buyer), with 6hp Johnson seahorse. > > Currently sitting on her trailer on the NJ shore (Barnegat Bay). She was on > the hard for the recent storm and there was no damage from that. > > All the usual Rhodes goodies, including the traveler bar, winch and > motorized lift (which may need to be removed to fix the damage, or not; the > winch is in good shape i think), connection between rudder and outboard, > bimini top, furling main, furling 170 genoa, fully enclosed hear, cushions > in good shape, etc. > > It was recycled 5 years ago so that probably answers a lot of questions > about what the boat has and what condition it is in, other than above and > below. > > Other than the damage described above - I just noticed some other dings on > the front of the hull - including the bow eye - I think the marina was a > little rough pulling her in possibly. If anyone is interested I can take > photos of that and send them privately. > > See attached some pictures > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: IMG_2921.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 290537 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200807/547eba7d/attachment.jpg > > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: IMG_2919.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 159451 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200807/547eba7d/attachment-0001.jpg > > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: IMG_2887.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 346814 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200807/547eba7d/attachment-0002.jpg > > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: IMG_2914.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 350676 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200807/547eba7d/attachment-0003.jpg > > > From seanallen1206 at gmail.com Fri Aug 7 23:50:43 2020 From: seanallen1206 at gmail.com (Sean Allen) Date: Fri, 7 Aug 2020 23:50:43 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Rhodes 22 For Sale - Kind of In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Thanks Mark - I appreciate the words of wisdom. I think everything you said is right. I will likely keep and fix her. Just thought I would offer someone with more time a good chance to buy a nice boat in need of fiberglass repair. On Fri, Aug 7, 2020 at 9:48 PM Mark Whipple wrote: > Sean, > > Sorry to hear about the difficulties with you Rhodes 22. I have also > experienced a season-ending gear failure: first when the heat exchanger > blew out and then, after I fixed it with an expensive replacement, the > engine died. I do understand being overwhelmed by the potential repair. > That said, this may not be the best time to sell a boat (says the guy with > two for sale). You don't have to fix it right away. If you keep it until > next Spring you can then decide if you want to sell it and if you do, the > market will hopefully be better. Or maybe you'll happen to get it fixed in > the meantime and you'll have a great sailboat to enjoy again. > > Just my $.02. > > Mark > -- > Boston, MA > > 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* > 1987 Nimble 30 *For Sale* > 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* > > On Fri, Aug 7, 2020 at 9:08 AM Sean Allen wrote: > > > It is with great sorrow that I post an offer to purchase a recently > > recycled Rhodes 22 for sale. > > > > A few weeks ago, I lowered the engine on the motorized mount and heard a > > 'crack'. I motored back to the marina and lifted the engine out, hearing > > another 'crack' - never a good feeling. > > > > Looking overboard I saw a hole about the size of a quarter in the > transom. > > After further investigation I believe that the motor got stuck in its > > track, some slack in the winch was created, and then it dropped smacking > > the transom in the same spot where the bolt holding the winch was > mounted. > > That force of the pull from the winch with the push from the outboard > > popped the bolt and washer through the hull. Leaving me sorely > disappointed > > as I had enjoyed the season and my new Rhodes 22 thoroughly until then. > > > > As painful as this is, I don't think I have the time to do the repair now > > and that my season is done. I'll probably fix the fiberglass over the > fall > > and winter, however I thought there might be someone on the list who > could > > take advantage of an offer that I would, if I were in different > > circumstances. > > > > I would take $4,000 for the boat, trailer, and engine if anyone is > > interested - but the sale would need to be in the next 30 days. > > > > My price is firm, I think everyone on the list can appreciate the value > of > > a newer boat and that the damage is going to be a matter of finding the > > time and some light elbow grease.I'm trying to be realistic about my > > schedule which will prolong the repair. > > > > *For Sale:* > > 1987 Rhodes 22' recycled in 2015 (with certificate for inspection for an > > interested buyer), with 6hp Johnson seahorse. > > > > Currently sitting on her trailer on the NJ shore (Barnegat Bay). She was > on > > the hard for the recent storm and there was no damage from that. > > > > All the usual Rhodes goodies, including the traveler bar, winch and > > motorized lift (which may need to be removed to fix the damage, or not; > the > > winch is in good shape i think), connection between rudder and outboard, > > bimini top, furling main, furling 170 genoa, fully enclosed hear, > cushions > > in good shape, etc. > > > > It was recycled 5 years ago so that probably answers a lot of questions > > about what the boat has and what condition it is in, other than above and > > below. > > > > Other than the damage described above - I just noticed some other dings > on > > the front of the hull - including the bow eye - I think the marina was a > > little rough pulling her in possibly. If anyone is interested I can take > > photos of that and send them privately. > > > > See attached some pictures > > -------------- next part -------------- > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > Name: IMG_2921.jpg > > Type: image/jpeg > > Size: 290537 bytes > > Desc: not available > > URL: < > > > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200807/547eba7d/attachment.jpg > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > Name: IMG_2919.jpg > > Type: image/jpeg > > Size: 159451 bytes > > Desc: not available > > URL: < > > > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200807/547eba7d/attachment-0001.jpg > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > Name: IMG_2887.jpg > > Type: image/jpeg > > Size: 346814 bytes > > Desc: not available > > URL: < > > > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200807/547eba7d/attachment-0002.jpg > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > Name: IMG_2914.jpg > > Type: image/jpeg > > Size: 350676 bytes > > Desc: not available > > URL: < > > > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200807/547eba7d/attachment-0003.jpg > > > > > > From tom.vanheule at intrinsicprograms.com Sat Aug 8 09:38:21 2020 From: tom.vanheule at intrinsicprograms.com (Tom Van Heule) Date: Sat, 8 Aug 2020 08:38:21 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Boat Cover: Thought I saw one for sale? In-Reply-To: <1596849839912-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1596723655080-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1596849839912-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: I would be interested in knowing if there is a pattern made for full covers (mast up , mast in crutch/pulpit)? We would love that. I am not aware that Stan/GB have a full/storage cover. On Fri, Aug 7, 2020 at 8:24 PM JeffSmith wrote: > 1Hi Dave, > Yes I have a mast up boat cover for sale for $750. It seems in excellent > shape, but I will inspect further and send pix of the panels uinstalled, if > you are interested. > > > > ----- > Jeff Smith > 2009 R22 #101 RADIANT > Atlantic Highlands Municpal Harbor > Atlantic Highlands, NJ > > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > -- Tom Van Heule Intrinsic Programs tom.vanheule at intrinsicprograms.com +1 303 525 5266 From tvpolise at aol.com Sat Aug 8 10:28:22 2020 From: tvpolise at aol.com (THOMAS POLISE) Date: Sat, 8 Aug 2020 10:28:22 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Mast crutch References: Message-ID: Anyone have a mast crutch in the LBI, NJ area for sale? From jayf401 at gmail.com Sat Aug 8 12:30:00 2020 From: jayf401 at gmail.com (Jay Friedland) Date: Sat, 8 Aug 2020 12:30:00 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Mast crutch In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Thomas, I?m pretty sure Rob?s is not for sale, but if you need it for a launch or pulling it?s best to get to Rob . If he?s ok, I?ll get it to you. Rob?s in Brant Beach, I?m in the Dunes. Sent from my iPhone > On Aug 8, 2020, at 10:28 AM, THOMAS POLISE via Rhodes22-list wrote: > > ?Anyone have a mast crutch in the LBI, NJ area for sale? From jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com Sat Aug 8 13:55:18 2020 From: jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com (JeffSmith) Date: Sat, 8 Aug 2020 10:55:18 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Maine Sailing Anyone? Message-ID: <1596909318869-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Wife Emily and I plan to sail Penobscott Bay from August 14 'til Labor Day. We would love to meet and perhaps cruise with other R22-ers. ----- Jeff Smith 2009 R22 #101 RADIANT Atlantic Highlands Municpal Harbor Atlantic Highlands, NJ -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com Sat Aug 8 14:10:50 2020 From: jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com (JeffSmith) Date: Sat, 8 Aug 2020 11:10:50 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Just bought a 1993 Rhodes 22! In-Reply-To: References: <00f701d661aa$7f4d1120$7de73360$@gmail.com> <1595601409780-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <1596910250921-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Great Info Tom, I just broke a tip lowering the mast. Hopefully I can get one before leaving for Maine on Thursday... ----- Jeff Smith 2009 R22 #101 RADIANT Atlantic Highlands Municpal Harbor Atlantic Highlands, NJ -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com Sat Aug 8 14:27:55 2020 From: chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com (Chris Geankoplis) Date: Sat, 8 Aug 2020 13:27:55 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Maine Sailing Anyone? In-Reply-To: <1596909318869-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1596909318869-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: Hey Jeff, Wish I could join you guys. We tried to go to Main 3 weeks ago but they required a fresh ( less than 72 hr.) Covid test, so we couldn?t meet our party there. Chris G Enosis On Sat, 8 Aug 2020 at 12:55, JeffSmith wrote: > Wife Emily and I plan to sail Penobscott Bay from August 14 'til Labor > Day. > We would love to meet and perhaps cruise with other R22-ers. > > > > ----- > Jeff Smith > 2009 R22 #101 RADIANT > Atlantic Highlands Municpal Harbor > Atlantic Highlands, NJ > > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > From tvpolise at aol.com Sat Aug 8 15:39:41 2020 From: tvpolise at aol.com (Thomas Polise) Date: Sat, 8 Aug 2020 15:39:41 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Mast crutch In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Thanks, I jury rigged a wooden crutch was just looking for something permanent. > On Aug 8, 2020, at 12:30 PM, Jay Friedland wrote: > > ?Thomas, > I?m pretty sure Rob?s is not for sale, but if you need it for a launch or pulling it?s best to get to Rob . If he?s ok, I?ll get it to you. Rob?s in Brant Beach, I?m in the Dunes. > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Aug 8, 2020, at 10:28 AM, THOMAS POLISE via Rhodes22-list wrote: >> >> ?Anyone have a mast crutch in the LBI, NJ area for sale? From peter at sunnybeeches.com Sat Aug 8 15:44:59 2020 From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg) Date: Sat, 8 Aug 2020 15:44:59 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Maine Sailing Anyone? In-Reply-To: <1596909318869-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1596909318869-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: Jeff, I?ve been thinking about a cruise in the Penobscott Bay area myself. I?m curious to know where you plan on launching, and parking your vehicle and trailer. Peter Nyberg Coventry, CT s/v Silverheels (1988/2016) > On Aug 8, 2020, at 1:55 PM, JeffSmith wrote: > > Wife Emily and I plan to sail Penobscott Bay from August 14 'til Labor Day. > We would love to meet and perhaps cruise with other R22-ers. > > > > ----- > Jeff Smith > 2009 R22 #101 RADIANT > Atlantic Highlands Municpal Harbor > Atlantic Highlands, NJ > > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From mweisner at ebsmed.com Sat Aug 8 17:39:49 2020 From: mweisner at ebsmed.com (Michael D. Weisner) Date: Sat, 08 Aug 2020 17:39:49 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Maine Sailing Anyone? In-Reply-To: <1596909318869-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: Pictures, pictures, pictures PLEASE! Oh, and social distancing, of course.Mike, s/v Wind Lass ('91), Nissequogue NY? -------- Original message --------From: JeffSmith Date: 8/8/20 1:55 PM (GMT-05:00) To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Maine Sailing Anyone? Wife Emily and I plan to sail Penobscott Bay from August 14 'til Labor Day. We would love to meet and perhaps cruise with other R22-ers.-----Jeff Smith2009 R22 #101 RADIANTAtlantic Highlands Municpal HarborAtlantic Highlands, NJ--Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From mark at whipplefamily.com Sat Aug 8 20:41:57 2020 From: mark at whipplefamily.com (Mark Whipple) Date: Sat, 8 Aug 2020 20:41:57 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Maine Sailing Anyone? In-Reply-To: References: <1596909318869-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: NOTE: I think this didn't go through the first time because I didn't smush down the pictures. We just got back from a week in Acadia National Park. We had two kayaks and three bikes on the car, but no sailboat this time. We did charter a 36' Pearson out of Bass Harbor for two hours (with a captain). I saw a bunch of launch ramps while we were there but I can't speak to how steep they were or how to handle car and trailer storage. I'll attach a few pictures of interest. You can probably also see the ones I posted to Facebook, even if you don't have an FB account. If you're from one of the chosen states per Maine Governor Janet Mills then you're all set. We are persona non grata since we live in Massachusetts. Since we heard numerous reports of people getting $500 we figured out how to get COVID tests 72 hours before heading to Maine. Then in Bar Harbor we saw many people who apparently were not inclined to wear masks. Interesting https://www.facebook.com/mark.w.whipple/media_set?set=a.10157914162474912&type=3 times. I have a related question about sailing in Maine don't want to hijack this thread so I'll post a separate message. I am also interested to hear about the logistics related to sailing an R22 in ME. Mark -- Boston, MA 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* 1987 Nimble 30 *For Sale* 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* [image: 20200804_102527small.jpg] [image: 20200806_121845small.jpg] [image: 20200807_171846small.jpg] [image: 20200807_172229small.jpg] [image: 20200807_174904small.jpg] On Sat, Aug 8, 2020 at 8:22 PM Mark Whipple wrote: > We just got back from a week in Acadia National Park. We had two kayaks > and three bikes on the car, but no sailboat this time. We did charter a 36' > Pearson out of Bass Harbor for two hours (with a captain). I saw a bunch of > launch ramps while we were there but I can't speak to how steep they were > or how to handle car and trailer storage. I'll attach a few pictures of > interest. You can probably also see the ones I posted to Facebook, even if > you don't have an FB account. > > If you're from one of the chosen states per Maine Governor Janet Mills > then you're all set. We are persona non grata since we live in > Massachusetts. Since we heard numerous reports of people getting $500 we > figured out how to get COVID tests 72 hours before heading to Maine. Then > in Bar Harbor we saw many people who apparently were not inclined to wear > masks. Interesting > https://www.facebook.com/mark.w.whipple/media_set?set=a.10157914162474912&type=3 > times. > > I have a related question about sailing in Maine don't want to hijack this > thread so I'll post a separate message. I am also interested to hear about > the logistics related to sailing an R22 in ME. > > Mark > -- > Boston, MA > > 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* > 1987 Nimble 30 *For Sale* > 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* > > On Sat, Aug 8, 2020 at 3:44 PM Peter Nyberg > wrote: > >> Jeff, >> >> I?ve been thinking about a cruise in the Penobscott Bay area myself. I?m >> curious to know where you plan on launching, and parking your vehicle and >> trailer. >> >> Peter Nyberg >> Coventry, CT >> s/v Silverheels (1988/2016) >> >> >> > On Aug 8, 2020, at 1:55 PM, JeffSmith wrote: >> > >> > Wife Emily and I plan to sail Penobscott Bay from August 14 'til Labor >> Day. >> > We would love to meet and perhaps cruise with other R22-ers. >> > >> > >> > >> > ----- >> > Jeff Smith >> > 2009 R22 #101 RADIANT >> > Atlantic Highlands Municpal Harbor >> > Atlantic Highlands, NJ >> > >> > -- >> > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ >> >> > > -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20200807_174904small.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 198194 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20200807_171846small.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 318509 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20200807_172229small.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 436006 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20200804_102527small.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 620989 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20200806_121845small.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 876296 bytes Desc: not available URL: From peter at sunnybeeches.com Sat Aug 8 21:13:11 2020 From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg) Date: Sat, 8 Aug 2020 21:13:11 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Maine Sailing Anyone? In-Reply-To: References: <1596909318869-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <75752D2F-FDFE-4423-8138-DBEC4569B960@sunnybeeches.com> I had some information on this earlier, but just rechecked now to be sure. According to info on a Maine.gov website, residents of the following states can enter without restriction: New Hampshire, Vermont, Connecticut, New Jersey, New York It appears that if you can avoid interacting with others, there?s no issue. Bring all your food and stay on your boat. Maybe we can do some Penobscott Bay Rhodes 22 get-together next year. ?Peter From dedallas at mac.com Sun Aug 9 13:59:57 2020 From: dedallas at mac.com (dedallas) Date: Sun, 9 Aug 2020 10:59:57 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Boat Cover: Thought I saw one for sale? In-Reply-To: <1596849839912-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1596723655080-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1596849839912-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <1596995997136-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Hi Jeff: Thanks for the response. Yes, I'm definitely interested. Had water get in through the cockpit table mount (99% certain that was the culprit) a few years ago over winter. Between getting the water out of the cabin and drying it out, repairs, and being time crunched with work, she hasn't been in the water since. Launching this week (sailable, in good shape, just need to continue to work on wiring/electronics) for a short season. If you could send some pics that would be great. If all looks good we can work out money transfer and shipping. One thing to mention, my boat has the life rails; if this would be a problem with your cover please let me know. Take care, Dave Dallas Mist or Dew -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From njcassie at optonline.net Sun Aug 9 17:54:40 2020 From: njcassie at optonline.net (Nancy) Date: Sun, 9 Aug 2020 17:54:40 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Remote control Message-ID: <79F175C0-61DA-4E03-A75F-E0575D0E5F24@optonline.net> Our remote control that raises and lowers the winch controlling the engine got flooded with salt water during the storm. We found another one just like it on Etsy. Does anyone know if it will sync up automatically with the electronics? Otherwise, what are our alternatives to raising and lowering the engine? Thanks for help! Nancy C Sent from my iPhone From jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com Mon Aug 10 06:30:36 2020 From: jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com (JeffSmith) Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2020 03:30:36 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Boat Cover: Thought I saw one for sale? In-Reply-To: <1596995997136-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1596723655080-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1596849839912-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1596995997136-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <1597055436907-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Hi Dave, I would guess that the life rails could be a problem. A canvas person might be able to modify. I am going on vacation in Main shortly - when I return in September, I'll try for some pix installed if you are still interested. ----- Jeff Smith 2009 R22 #101 RADIANT Atlantic Highlands Municpal Harbor Atlantic Highlands, NJ -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com Mon Aug 10 06:45:46 2020 From: jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com (JeffSmith) Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2020 03:45:46 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Maine Sailing Anyone? In-Reply-To: References: <1596909318869-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <1597056346226-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Hi Peter, We will launch from the Apprentice Shop ramp in Rockland with an assist (if necessary) from one of the hands at Knight's Marina. We will stay in a nearby hotel the first 2 nights to explore Rockland (Farnsworth Museum and all that) and have the boat in a slip for a day or two at Knight's. Then cruise depending on weather and wind direction. ----- Jeff Smith 2009 R22 #101 RADIANT Atlantic Highlands Municpal Harbor Atlantic Highlands, NJ -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From ruckc at yahoo.com Mon Aug 10 09:39:58 2020 From: ruckc at yahoo.com (Curtis Ruck) Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2020 09:39:58 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Hull Identification Number References: Message-ID: So, my HIN is GBX220114D79. According to my new state (Georgia) and this website the HIN is invalid... https://www.marinetitle.com/aspnet/hinum.aspx?hinum=GBX220114D79 How has my fellow Rhodies handled this? I've been trying to register this boat now for 6 months in Georgia and they can't seem to help me figure it out. [image: image.png] -- Curtis s/v "Ruck It" -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 3716401 bytes Desc: not available URL: From sloopblueheron at gmail.com Mon Aug 10 10:13:48 2020 From: sloopblueheron at gmail.com (Rick Lange) Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2020 10:13:48 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Hull Identification Number In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I had a problem in 2002 renewing the registration for my '93 model. The ODNR thought I was a terrorist who stole the boat to blow up a bridge or something. As Stan explained it, the hull was built late in 1992 when part of the number was set. After the winter holiday break, the boat was finished in March of 1993 when the number was fully set. A number for a boat started in one year and finished in another doesn't fit the algorithm used by ODNR to validate hull numbers. On Mon, Aug 10, 2020 at 9:40 AM Curtis Ruck via Rhodes22-list < rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote: > So, my HIN is GBX220114D79. According to my new state (Georgia) and this > website the HIN is invalid... > > https://www.marinetitle.com/aspnet/hinum.aspx?hinum=GBX220114D79 > > How has my fellow Rhodies handled this? I've been trying to register this > boat now for 6 months in Georgia and they can't seem to help me figure it > out. > > [image: image.png] > -- > Curtis > s/v "Ruck It" > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: image.png > Type: image/png > Size: 3716401 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200810/006896db/attachment.png > > > From mweisner at ebsmed.com Mon Aug 10 10:33:53 2020 From: mweisner at ebsmed.com (Michael D. Weisner) Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2020 10:33:53 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Hull Identification Number Message-ID: Curtis,? The HIN was coded, according to our archives, using the method referenced below:http://www.rhodes22.org/blew_skies/hull1.htmlI'm not sure why the state needs to validate it further if you have a photo and title or registration from the previous owner.?Mikes/v Wind Lass ('91)Nissequogue, NY From mweisner at ebsmed.com Mon Aug 10 10:39:47 2020 From: mweisner at ebsmed.com (Michael D. Weisner) Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2020 10:39:47 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Hull Identification Number Message-ID: Curtis,?The HIN was coded, according to our archives, using the method referenced below:http://www.rhodes22.org/blew_skies/hull1.html .I'm not sure why the state needs to validate it further if you have a photo and title or registration from the previous owner.?Mike,?s/v Wind Lass ('91), Nissequogue, NY From dedallas at mac.com Mon Aug 10 10:43:44 2020 From: dedallas at mac.com (dedallas) Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2020 07:43:44 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Boat Cover: Thought I saw one for sale? In-Reply-To: <1597055436907-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1596723655080-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1596849839912-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1596995997136-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1597055436907-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <1597070624747-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Hi Jeff: I'm definitely still interested. Please send pics when you can. Depending on how it installs, life rails may not be an issue. Have a great vacation! We'll 'talk' when you get back. Dave Dallas Mist or Dew -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From retiredtoby at gmail.com Mon Aug 10 10:50:29 2020 From: retiredtoby at gmail.com (Cary Tolbert) Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2020 10:50:29 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Hull Identification Number In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Curtis, I looked up your HIN at BoatPro it had all of the info. Mfg , address, etc. The hull number showed a problem with 3 Digits of the HIN. They were "4D7". DMVs are a real pain to deal with if anything is out of their 85% range. I had a similar situation on my boat trailer because NJ did not require registration on trailers. Some where the title was lost between the previous owners. I had to go to the STATE DMV at the Capitol in Richmond and finally got everything clear, a tension ball and a bottle of TUMS later. Best of luck. Cary Tolbert S/V Whisper 86 On Mon, Aug 10, 2020 at 10:34 AM Michael D. Weisner wrote: > Curtis, > The HIN was coded, according to our archives, using the method referenced > below:http://www.rhodes22.org/blew_skies/hull1.htmlI'm not sure why the > state needs to validate it further if you have a photo and title or > registration from the previous owner. Mikes/v Wind Lass ('91)Nissequogue, NY > From ruckc at yahoo.com Mon Aug 10 10:52:11 2020 From: ruckc at yahoo.com (Curtis Ruck) Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2020 10:52:11 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Hull Identification Number In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I agree, and I have a previous state title in my own name, with this HIN... but supposedly there is a standard HIN format after 1972 and these HIN's don't follow it, so Georgia doesn't know what to do. -- Curtis On Mon, Aug 10, 2020 at 10:39 AM Michael D. Weisner wrote: > Curtis, The HIN was coded, according to our archives, using the method > referenced below:http://www.rhodes22.org/blew_skies/hull1.html .I'm not > sure why the state needs to validate it further if you have a photo and > title or registration from the previous owner. Mike, s/v Wind Lass ('91), > Nissequogue, NY > From retiredtoby at gmail.com Mon Aug 10 11:06:27 2020 From: retiredtoby at gmail.com (Cary Tolbert) Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2020 11:06:27 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Hull Identification Number In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Curtis, see if Stan at General Boats will send you a letter of confirmation of your HIN. General Boats issued the number. Surely it has been licensed in another state. On Mon, Aug 10, 2020 at 10:52 AM Curtis Ruck via Rhodes22-list < rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote: > I agree, and I have a previous state title in my own name, with this HIN... > but supposedly there is a standard HIN format after 1972 and these HIN's > don't follow it, so Georgia doesn't know what to do. > -- > Curtis > > > On Mon, Aug 10, 2020 at 10:39 AM Michael D. Weisner > wrote: > > > Curtis, The HIN was coded, according to our archives, using the method > > referenced below:http://www.rhodes22.org/blew_skies/hull1.html .I'm not > > sure why the state needs to validate it further if you have a photo and > > title or registration from the previous owner. Mike, s/v Wind Lass ('91), > > Nissequogue, NY > > > From cknell at vt.edu Mon Aug 10 12:12:02 2020 From: cknell at vt.edu (Chris on LBI) Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2020 09:12:02 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Reconnecting the Tabernacle Screws Following Sacrificial Failure In-Reply-To: References: <1596411570037-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1596479284335-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1596496929365-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <1597075922203-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Jesse, I filled the holes with epoxy last week. I took photos and some notes that I'll post ... after I step the mast. I found that a second shroud had been damaged and I'm waiting for the winds to cooperate; we are on the water and winds above about 6kts cause too much yawl and roll. Chris ----- Long Beach Island -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com Mon Aug 10 12:15:41 2020 From: jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com (Jesse Shumaker) Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2020 11:15:41 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Reconnecting the Tabernacle Screws Following Sacrificial Failure In-Reply-To: <1597075922203-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1596411570037-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1596479284335-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1596496929365-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1597075922203-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: Hi Chris, thanks for the update. Glad to hear you were able to get the mast step re-installed. Good luck stepping the mast. I hope you're back sailing soon! Jesse Shumaker S/V Zephyr On Mon, Aug 10, 2020 at 11:12 AM Chris on LBI wrote: > Jesse, > > I filled the holes with epoxy last week. I took photos and some notes that > I'll post ... after I step the mast. I found that a second shroud had been > damaged and I'm waiting for the winds to cooperate; we are on the water and > winds above about 6kts cause too much yawl and roll. > > Chris > > > > ----- > Long Beach Island > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > From rlowe at vt.edu Mon Aug 10 12:53:06 2020 From: rlowe at vt.edu (Lowe, Rob) Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2020 16:53:06 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Remote control In-Reply-To: <79F175C0-61DA-4E03-A75F-E0575D0E5F24@optonline.net> References: <79F175C0-61DA-4E03-A75F-E0575D0E5F24@optonline.net> Message-ID: Nancy, Did you get this figured out? I kind of doubt the remotes are winch specific. - rob -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of Nancy Sent: Sunday, August 9, 2020 5:55 PM To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Remote control Our remote control that raises and lowers the winch controlling the engine got flooded with salt water during the storm. We found another one just like it on Etsy. Does anyone know if it will sync up automatically with the electronics? Otherwise, what are our alternatives to raising and lowering the engine? Thanks for help! Nancy C Sent from my iPhone From jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com Mon Aug 10 12:58:10 2020 From: jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com (Jesse Shumaker) Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2020 09:58:10 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Remote control In-Reply-To: <79F175C0-61DA-4E03-A75F-E0575D0E5F24@optonline.net> References: <79F175C0-61DA-4E03-A75F-E0575D0E5F24@optonline.net> Message-ID: <1597078690745-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Hi Nancy, if you don't have any luck with replacing the remote, another option would be to replace the winch. Last fall, I chose that approach and selected a new winch with a hard wired switch as well as two remotes since I prefer redundancy. The new winch was affordable and has worked well. I normally use the hard wired switch but it's good to know that I have a remote stored in the port side cockpit coaming compartment as well as another one in the cabin. Explanation and photos from that project are at http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/Replacement-of-winch-for-motor-lift-td56157.html#none Good luck! Jesse Shumaker S/V Zephyr -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From njcassie at optonline.net Mon Aug 10 13:28:09 2020 From: njcassie at optonline.net (Nancy) Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2020 13:28:09 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Remote control In-Reply-To: <1597078690745-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1597078690745-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <0DED94A9-1B24-452C-A108-4949FBB6B68F@optonline.net> We are getting it Wednesday. Fingers crossed. Sent from my iPhone > On Aug 10, 2020, at 12:58 PM, Jesse Shumaker wrote: > > ?Hi Nancy, if you don't have any luck with replacing the remote, another > option would be to replace the winch. Last fall, I chose that approach and > selected a new winch with a hard wired switch as well as two remotes since I > prefer redundancy. The new winch was affordable and has worked well. I > normally use the hard wired switch but it's good to know that I have a > remote stored in the port side cockpit coaming compartment as well as > another one in the cabin. > > Explanation and photos from that project are at > http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/Replacement-of-winch-for-motor-lift-td56157.html#none > > Good luck! > > Jesse Shumaker > S/V Zephyr > > > > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From njcassie at optonline.net Mon Aug 10 13:29:47 2020 From: njcassie at optonline.net (Nancy) Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2020 13:29:47 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Remote control In-Reply-To: <0DED94A9-1B24-452C-A108-4949FBB6B68F@optonline.net> References: <0DED94A9-1B24-452C-A108-4949FBB6B68F@optonline.net> Message-ID: <3A242625-4C98-41AB-B6AF-07534354AD6E@optonline.net> Thank you for that option. Will investigate if the new remote doesn?t work! Sent from my iPhone > On Aug 10, 2020, at 1:28 PM, Nancy wrote: > > ?We are getting it Wednesday. Fingers crossed. > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Aug 10, 2020, at 12:58 PM, Jesse Shumaker wrote: >> >> ?Hi Nancy, if you don't have any luck with replacing the remote, another >> option would be to replace the winch. Last fall, I chose that approach and >> selected a new winch with a hard wired switch as well as two remotes since I >> prefer redundancy. The new winch was affordable and has worked well. I >> normally use the hard wired switch but it's good to know that I have a >> remote stored in the port side cockpit coaming compartment as well as >> another one in the cabin. >> >> Explanation and photos from that project are at >> http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/Replacement-of-winch-for-motor-lift-td56157.html#none >> >> Good luck! >> >> Jesse Shumaker >> S/V Zephyr >> >> >> >> -- >> Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From tvpolise at aol.com Mon Aug 10 15:35:56 2020 From: tvpolise at aol.com (THOMAS POLISE) Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2020 15:35:56 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Remote control In-Reply-To: <3A242625-4C98-41AB-B6AF-07534354AD6E@optonline.net> References: <3A242625-4C98-41AB-B6AF-07534354AD6E@optonline.net> Message-ID: <98A0B492-F938-40AB-8AA8-190FB5722E72@aol.com> I replaced mine also with same unit and it is working fine. > On Aug 10, 2020, at 1:29 PM, Nancy wrote: > > ?Thank you for that option. Will investigate if the new remote doesn?t work! > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Aug 10, 2020, at 1:28 PM, Nancy wrote: >> >> ?We are getting it Wednesday. Fingers crossed. >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >>>> On Aug 10, 2020, at 12:58 PM, Jesse Shumaker wrote: >>> >>> ?Hi Nancy, if you don't have any luck with replacing the remote, another >>> option would be to replace the winch. Last fall, I chose that approach and >>> selected a new winch with a hard wired switch as well as two remotes since I >>> prefer redundancy. The new winch was affordable and has worked well. I >>> normally use the hard wired switch but it's good to know that I have a >>> remote stored in the port side cockpit coaming compartment as well as >>> another one in the cabin. >>> >>> Explanation and photos from that project are at >>> http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/Replacement-of-winch-for-motor-lift-td56157.html#none >>> >>> Good luck! >>> >>> Jesse Shumaker >>> S/V Zephyr >>> >>> >>> >>> -- >>> Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > From njcassie at optonline.net Mon Aug 10 16:11:00 2020 From: njcassie at optonline.net (Nancy) Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2020 16:11:00 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Remote control In-Reply-To: <98A0B492-F938-40AB-8AA8-190FB5722E72@aol.com> References: <98A0B492-F938-40AB-8AA8-190FB5722E72@aol.com> Message-ID: <843EF295-F294-4004-A76C-F305426D0700@optonline.net> Good to know Sent from my iPhone > On Aug 10, 2020, at 3:36 PM, THOMAS POLISE via Rhodes22-list wrote: > > ?I replaced mine also with same unit and it is working fine. > >> On Aug 10, 2020, at 1:29 PM, Nancy wrote: >> >> ?Thank you for that option. Will investigate if the new remote doesn?t work! >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >>>> On Aug 10, 2020, at 1:28 PM, Nancy wrote: >>> >>> ?We are getting it Wednesday. Fingers crossed. >>> >>> Sent from my iPhone >>> >>>>> On Aug 10, 2020, at 12:58 PM, Jesse Shumaker wrote: >>>> >>>> ?Hi Nancy, if you don't have any luck with replacing the remote, another >>>> option would be to replace the winch. Last fall, I chose that approach and >>>> selected a new winch with a hard wired switch as well as two remotes since I >>>> prefer redundancy. The new winch was affordable and has worked well. I >>>> normally use the hard wired switch but it's good to know that I have a >>>> remote stored in the port side cockpit coaming compartment as well as >>>> another one in the cabin. >>>> >>>> Explanation and photos from that project are at >>>> http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/Replacement-of-winch-for-motor-lift-td56157.html#none >>>> >>>> Good luck! >>>> >>>> Jesse Shumaker >>>> S/V Zephyr >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> -- >>>> Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ >> > From mike at traildesign.com Mon Aug 10 16:18:24 2020 From: mike at traildesign.com (Mike Riter) Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2020 16:18:24 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Tiller auto pilot Message-ID: I'm on the verge of spending the money to get an auto pilot for the boat. I'm looking at the Raymarine st1000 and would love to hear any advice, opinions, good, bad or ugly stories about what other Rhodes owners think. Mike Riter SV Emma B From sloopblueheron at gmail.com Mon Aug 10 16:35:45 2020 From: sloopblueheron at gmail.com (Rick Lange) Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2020 16:35:45 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Tiller auto pilot In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Mike, Get it. Regards, Rick Lange On Mon, Aug 10, 2020 at 4:19 PM Mike Riter wrote: > I'm on the verge of spending the money to get an auto pilot for the boat. > I'm looking at the Raymarine st1000 and would love to hear any advice, > opinions, good, bad or ugly stories about what other Rhodes owners think. > > > Mike Riter > SV Emma B > From mweisner at ebsmed.com Mon Aug 10 16:37:11 2020 From: mweisner at ebsmed.com (Michael D. Weisner) Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2020 16:37:11 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Tiller auto pilot In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <004c01d66f56$06ac8b10$1405a130$@ebsmed.com> Mike R, I love mine! Check out our list archives: http://www.rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attch/200610/10/TillerPilotSetuponRhodes22.pdf http://www.rhodes22.org/blew_skies/autohelm.html http://www.rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/2003-November/011165.html Mike s/v Wind Lass ('91) Nissequogue River, NY I?d rather be sailing :~) -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of Mike Riter Sent: Monday, August 10, 2020 4:18 PM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Tiller auto pilot I'm on the verge of spending the money to get an auto pilot for the boat. I'm looking at the Raymarine st1000 and would love to hear any advice, opinions, good, bad or ugly stories about what other Rhodes owners think. Mike Riter SV Emma B From ric at stottarchitecture.com Mon Aug 10 16:47:09 2020 From: ric at stottarchitecture.com (Richard Stott) Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2020 16:47:09 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Tiller auto pilot In-Reply-To: <004c01d66f56$06ac8b10$1405a130$@ebsmed.com> References: <004c01d66f56$06ac8b10$1405a130$@ebsmed.com> Message-ID: <11E56AEA-4158-4ED9-A722-FCCC9F40A528@stottarchitecture.com> DO IT! I sail single handed mostly and i could not do what i do without that tool. RIC SV DADVENTURE HBNY Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP www.stottarchitecture.com Office 631-283-1777 Cell 516-965-3164 > On Aug 10, 2020, at 4:37 PM, Michael D. Weisner wrote: > > Mike R, > > I love mine! > > Check out our list archives: > > http://www.rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attch/200610/10/TillerPilotSetuponRhodes22.pdf > > http://www.rhodes22.org/blew_skies/autohelm.html > > http://www.rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/2003-November/011165.html > > Mike > s/v Wind Lass ('91) > Nissequogue River, NY > I?d rather be sailing :~) > > -----Original Message----- > From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of Mike Riter > Sent: Monday, August 10, 2020 4:18 PM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Tiller auto pilot > > I'm on the verge of spending the money to get an auto pilot for the boat. > I'm looking at the Raymarine st1000 and would love to hear any advice, opinions, good, bad or ugly stories about what other Rhodes owners think. > > > Mike Riter > SV Emma B > From keywestseccorp at verizon.net Mon Aug 10 17:07:34 2020 From: keywestseccorp at verizon.net (Mark West) Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2020 21:07:34 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Tiller auto pilot In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <19001694.2038767.1597093654067@mail.yahoo.com> I have the st 2000 like it -----Original Message----- From: Mike Riter To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Sent: Mon, Aug 10, 2020 4:18 pm Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Tiller auto pilot I'm on the verge of spending the money to get an auto pilot for the boat. I'm looking at the Raymarine st1000 and would love to hear any advice, opinions, good, bad or ugly stories about what other Rhodes owners think. Mike Riter SV Emma B From tom.vanheule at intrinsicprograms.com Mon Aug 10 17:25:07 2020 From: tom.vanheule at intrinsicprograms.com (Tom Van Heule) Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2020 16:25:07 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Tiller auto pilot In-Reply-To: <004c01d66f56$06ac8b10$1405a130$@ebsmed.com> References: <004c01d66f56$06ac8b10$1405a130$@ebsmed.com> Message-ID: What other devices/kit do you need to integrate it usefully? If my understanding is correct, you would need to add a 'seabus' type device and have something (plotter/ipad/etc) to input to the autotiller. a LAN of sorts.... the autotiller cant just drive itself, right? Sounds like its worth doing from the member responses so far - but this is not something GB specs out - would love to hear a DIY of retrofitting, or fitting rather. P.S. Is there a good way to search for video uploads to the archive? Peter seems to have curated a lot... I saw a capsise test on a coast gaurd boat today, and wondered if any of us would sacrafice (not mine)/test for some video on Phil/Stans design to perform the same rollover test? maybe the ROC would find a boat to show its meddle? just thoughts. rambling... etc. On Mon, Aug 10, 2020 at 3:37 PM Michael D. Weisner wrote: > Mike R, > > I love mine! > > Check out our list archives: > > > http://www.rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attch/200610/10/TillerPilotSetuponRhodes22.pdf > > http://www.rhodes22.org/blew_skies/autohelm.html > > http://www.rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/2003-November/011165.html > > Mike > s/v Wind Lass ('91) > Nissequogue River, NY > I?d rather be sailing :~) > > -----Original Message----- > From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of > Mike Riter > Sent: Monday, August 10, 2020 4:18 PM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Tiller auto pilot > > I'm on the verge of spending the money to get an auto pilot for the boat. > I'm looking at the Raymarine st1000 and would love to hear any advice, > opinions, good, bad or ugly stories about what other Rhodes owners think. > > > Mike Riter > SV Emma B > > -- Tom Van Heule Intrinsic Programs tom.vanheule at intrinsicprograms.com +1 303 525 5266 From peter at sunnybeeches.com Mon Aug 10 17:26:41 2020 From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg) Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2020 17:26:41 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Tiller auto pilot In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <5FD82845-C040-42F5-B04C-D90D8DAE7C11@sunnybeeches.com> I have the same model tiller pilot. I can?t imaging sailing without it, or something similar (if there is anything similar). In fact, I am so dependent on it that I have two. I have twice sent units back to Raymarine for repair. In both cases, the repair was covered under warranty. I don?t know if it was each unit once, or one unit twice. The PDF doc that Mike provided a link to is what I used for my installation, and it was very helpful. This is a document that I specifically had in mind to add to the documents library of the new (in the works) website. One point of difference, the document says that at the location where the pin cup was mounted, the fiberglass was thick. On my boat it was thin. I used a backer of 3/4" hardwood held in place by epoxy. No 5200 on my boat! Peter Nyberg Coventry, CT s/v Silverheels (1988/2016) > On Aug 10, 2020, at 4:18 PM, Mike Riter wrote: > > I'm on the verge of spending the money to get an auto pilot for the boat. > I'm looking at the Raymarine st1000 and would love to hear any advice, > opinions, good, bad or ugly stories about what other Rhodes owners think. > > > Mike Riter > SV Emma B From peter at sunnybeeches.com Mon Aug 10 17:45:07 2020 From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg) Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2020 17:45:07 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Maine Sailing Anyone? In-Reply-To: <1597056346226-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1596909318869-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1597056346226-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <70104B9D-0819-4814-A1B0-A6437B23D778@sunnybeeches.com> Jeff, Thanks for the reply. I didn?t know about the ramp at the Apprentice Shop. Their website says they?re closed to the public due to Covid-19, but I assume you?ve worked it out with them. I was thinking of using the public ramp at Snow Marine Park in the south end of town. Nothing on the town website makes any mention of how long you can leave a vehicle and trailer there. A young lady I spoke to at the harbormaster?s office told me that officially by town ordinance, overnight parking is not allowed. But as far as they know, no one has ever been ticketed in the lot. (But don?t park on the grass!). So, I guess the parking situation will be part of the adventure. The worst case scenario, I guess, would be to come back from a week of cruising to find your vehicle and/or trailer missing. I?ve got tentative plans to launch on Aug 18 for my usual one week cruise. Peter Nyberg Coventry, CT s/v Silverheels (1988/2016) > On Aug 10, 2020, at 6:45 AM, JeffSmith wrote: > > Hi Peter, > We will launch from the Apprentice Shop ramp in Rockland with an assist (if > necessary) from one of the hands at Knight's Marina. We will stay in a > nearby hotel the first 2 nights to explore Rockland (Farnsworth Museum and > all that) and have the boat in a slip for a day or two at Knight's. > Then cruise depending on weather and wind direction. > > > > ----- > Jeff Smith > 2009 R22 #101 RADIANT > Atlantic Highlands Municpal Harbor > Atlantic Highlands, NJ > > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From kensimolo at gmail.com Mon Aug 10 18:54:36 2020 From: kensimolo at gmail.com (Ken Simolo) Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2020 15:54:36 -0700 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Tiller auto pilot (Mike Riter) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: We love ours. I would certainly replace it if it broke. Ken 32. Tiller auto pilot (Mike Riter) ------------------------------ Message: 32 Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2020 16:18:24 -0400 From: Mike Riter To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Tiller auto pilot Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8" I'm on the verge of spending the money to get an auto pilot for the boat. I'm looking at the Raymarine st1000 and would love to hear any advice, opinions, good, bad or ugly stories about what other Rhodes owners think. Mike Riter SV Emma B --------- From chrissailorman at gmail.com Mon Aug 10 19:31:45 2020 From: chrissailorman at gmail.com (Christopher Greco) Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2020 19:31:45 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Tiller auto pilot (Mike Riter) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <61078A16-0E9B-428D-B306-0BFCCCA86F66@gmail.com> For everyday sailing, check out the Tiller Clutch by Wavefront Marine. Clever design convenient to use... works great Sent from my iPhone > On Aug 10, 2020, at 6:54 PM, Ken Simolo wrote: > > ?We love ours. I would certainly replace it if it broke. > > Ken > > > > 32. Tiller auto pilot (Mike Riter) > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 32 > Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2020 16:18:24 -0400 > From: Mike Riter > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Tiller auto pilot > Message-ID: > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8" > > I'm on the verge of spending the money to get an auto pilot for the boat. > I'm looking at the Raymarine st1000 and would love to hear any advice, > opinions, good, bad or ugly stories about what other Rhodes owners think. > > > Mike Riter > SV Emma B > > > --------- From peter at sunnybeeches.com Mon Aug 10 20:47:19 2020 From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg) Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2020 20:47:19 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Tiller auto pilot In-Reply-To: References: <004c01d66f56$06ac8b10$1405a130$@ebsmed.com> Message-ID: Tom, The ST1000 is a stand-alone unit. The only connection it needs is power. ?Peter > On Aug 10, 2020, at 5:25 PM, Tom Van Heule wrote: > > What other devices/kit do you need to integrate it usefully? > If my understanding is correct, you would need to add a 'seabus' type > device and have something (plotter/ipad/etc) to input to the autotiller. > a LAN of sorts.... the autotiller cant just drive itself, right? > Sounds like its worth doing from the member responses so far - but this is > not something GB specs out - would love to hear a DIY of retrofitting, or > fitting rather. > > P.S. Is there a good way to search for video uploads to the archive? Peter > seems to have curated a lot... I saw a capsise test on a coast gaurd boat > today, and wondered if any of us would sacrafice (not mine)/test for some > video on Phil/Stans design to perform the same rollover test? maybe the ROC > would find a boat to show its meddle? just thoughts. rambling... etc. > > > On Mon, Aug 10, 2020 at 3:37 PM Michael D. Weisner > wrote: > >> Mike R, >> >> I love mine! >> >> Check out our list archives: >> >> >> http://www.rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attch/200610/10/TillerPilotSetuponRhodes22.pdf >> >> http://www.rhodes22.org/blew_skies/autohelm.html >> >> http://www.rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/2003-November/011165.html >> >> Mike >> s/v Wind Lass ('91) >> Nissequogue River, NY >> I?d rather be sailing :~) >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of >> Mike Riter >> Sent: Monday, August 10, 2020 4:18 PM >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List >> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Tiller auto pilot >> >> I'm on the verge of spending the money to get an auto pilot for the boat. >> I'm looking at the Raymarine st1000 and would love to hear any advice, >> opinions, good, bad or ugly stories about what other Rhodes owners think. >> >> >> Mike Riter >> SV Emma B >> >> > > -- > Tom Van Heule > Intrinsic Programs > tom.vanheule at intrinsicprograms.com > +1 303 525 5266 From chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com Mon Aug 10 23:11:27 2020 From: chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com (Chris Geankoplis) Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2020 22:11:27 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] New to Me Rhodes Message-ID: Well I am announcing that I am bi-contenental. This is a Covid induced affliction. And the fault of Sean Allen. It seems we can't get to our Rhodes in the Med and are headed back to Maryland from Kansas, with nothing to do for a couple of months. I thought, along with Alice, I needed something to keep me busy until things cool down and we can return to our floating home in Florida. Sean offered his Rhodes for sale at the magic moment for us. What better way to pass the time in a resin fume induced nirvana of a little glass work then some "test" sails on the Chesapeake. It feels good to go back to being a full time Rhodie, at least for a while. Chris & Alice Geankoplis Enosis 1, 2 & 3 From shawn.sustain at gmail.com Mon Aug 10 23:26:47 2020 From: shawn.sustain at gmail.com (Shawn Boles) Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2020 20:26:47 -0700 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] New to Me Rhodes In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: The Pardey's have nothing on you two! Enjoy. Cheers, Shawn s/v Sweet Baboo On Mon, Aug 10, 2020, 8:11 PM Chris Geankoplis wrote: > Well I am announcing that I am bi-contenental. This is a Covid induced > affliction. And the fault of Sean Allen. It seems we can't get to > our Rhodes in the Med and are headed back to Maryland from Kansas, with > nothing to do for a couple of months. I thought, along with Alice, I > needed something to keep me busy until things cool down and we can return > to our floating home in Florida. Sean offered his Rhodes for sale at the > magic moment for us. What better way to pass the time in a resin fume > induced nirvana of a little glass work then some "test" sails on the > Chesapeake. It feels good to go back to being a full time Rhodie, at least > for a while. > > Chris & Alice Geankoplis > Enosis 1, 2 & 3 > From jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com Mon Aug 10 23:34:16 2020 From: jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com (Jesse Shumaker) Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2020 20:34:16 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] New to Me Rhodes In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1597116856895-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Congrats! Just when I feel nervous about getting a second boat (a Snipe for racing), another sailor like you makes me feel like that is totally normal. Have fun on Enosis 3! Jesse Shumaker S/V Zephyr ... and a Snipe as of this Saturday -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From mtroy at atlanticbb.net Mon Aug 10 23:50:03 2020 From: mtroy at atlanticbb.net (Mary Lou Troy) Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2020 23:50:03 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] New to Me Rhodes In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Well congratulations! Just a warning that for the last month, the Chesapeake has been almost as hot as Florida. Water temp in the 80s. Highs in the 90s. Should (I repeat (should) start cooling off a bit in the next few weeks. Let us know where you are. Mary Lou (and Fred) On 8/10/2020 11:11 PM, Chris Geankoplis wrote: > Well I am announcing that I am bi-contenental. This is a Covid induced > affliction. And the fault of Sean Allen. It seems we can't get to > our Rhodes in the Med and are headed back to Maryland from Kansas, with > nothing to do for a couple of months. I thought, along with Alice, I > needed something to keep me busy until things cool down and we can return > to our floating home in Florida. Sean offered his Rhodes for sale at the > magic moment for us. What better way to pass the time in a resin fume > induced nirvana of a little glass work then some "test" sails on the > Chesapeake. It feels good to go back to being a full time Rhodie, at least > for a while. > > Chris & Alice Geankoplis > Enosis 1, 2 & 3 -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus From chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com Tue Aug 11 08:17:23 2020 From: chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com (Chris Geankoplis) Date: Tue, 11 Aug 2020 07:17:23 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] New to Me Rhodes In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Thanks for making this possible, Sean. Yup, it?s all your fault. (Grin) Chris G Enosis 123 On Mon, 10 Aug 2020 at 22:27, Shawn Boles wrote: > The Pardey's have nothing on you two! Enjoy. > > Cheers, > > Shawn > s/v Sweet Baboo > > > On Mon, Aug 10, 2020, 8:11 PM Chris Geankoplis > wrote: > > > Well I am announcing that I am bi-contenental. This is a Covid induced > > affliction. And the fault of Sean Allen. It seems we can't get to > > our Rhodes in the Med and are headed back to Maryland from Kansas, with > > nothing to do for a couple of months. I thought, along with Alice, I > > needed something to keep me busy until things cool down and we can return > > to our floating home in Florida. Sean offered his Rhodes for sale at the > > magic moment for us. What better way to pass the time in a resin fume > > induced nirvana of a little glass work then some "test" sails on the > > Chesapeake. It feels good to go back to being a full time Rhodie, at > least > > for a while. > > > > Chris & Alice Geankoplis > > Enosis 1, 2 & 3 > > > From chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com Tue Aug 11 08:21:07 2020 From: chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com (Chris Geankoplis) Date: Tue, 11 Aug 2020 07:21:07 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] New to Me Rhodes In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hey Mary Lou (and Fred), Sounds like Kansas weather. It will take a week or more to get the boat Chesapeake-ready. Hopefully it will be a bit cooler then. Chris (and Alice) Enosis 123 On Mon, 10 Aug 2020 at 22:50, Mary Lou Troy wrote: > Well congratulations! Just a warning that for the last month, the > Chesapeake has been almost as hot as Florida. Water temp in the 80s. > Highs in the 90s. Should (I repeat (should) start cooling off a bit in > the next few weeks. Let us know where you are. > > Mary Lou (and Fred) > > On 8/10/2020 11:11 PM, Chris Geankoplis wrote: > > Well I am announcing that I am bi-contenental. This is a Covid induced > > affliction. And the fault of Sean Allen. It seems we can't get to > > our Rhodes in the Med and are headed back to Maryland from Kansas, with > > nothing to do for a couple of months. I thought, along with Alice, I > > needed something to keep me busy until things cool down and we can return > > to our floating home in Florida. Sean offered his Rhodes for sale at the > > magic moment for us. What better way to pass the time in a resin fume > > induced nirvana of a little glass work then some "test" sails on the > > Chesapeake. It feels good to go back to being a full time Rhodie, at > least > > for a while. > > > > Chris & Alice Geankoplis > > Enosis 1, 2 & 3 > > > -- > This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. > https://www.avast.com/antivirus > > From chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com Tue Aug 11 08:29:45 2020 From: chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com (Chris Geankoplis) Date: Tue, 11 Aug 2020 07:29:45 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] New to Me Rhodes In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: With all the boats, actually there are a couple more in the family, I?m thinking Onassis rather than the Pardeys. ( grin) I am just finishing up a restoration of a 1972 Lyle Hess Designed Ensenada 20 for my son here in Kansas, so perhaps there is some momentum here ( or exhaustion). Chris Geankoplis Enosis On Mon, 10 Aug 2020 at 22:27, Shawn Boles wrote: > The Pardey's have nothing on you two! Enjoy. > > Cheers, > > Shawn > s/v Sweet Baboo > > > On Mon, Aug 10, 2020, 8:11 PM Chris Geankoplis > wrote: > > > Well I am announcing that I am bi-contenental. This is a Covid induced > > affliction. And the fault of Sean Allen. It seems we can't get to > > our Rhodes in the Med and are headed back to Maryland from Kansas, with > > nothing to do for a couple of months. I thought, along with Alice, I > > needed something to keep me busy until things cool down and we can return > > to our floating home in Florida. Sean offered his Rhodes for sale at the > > magic moment for us. What better way to pass the time in a resin fume > > induced nirvana of a little glass work then some "test" sails on the > > Chesapeake. It feels good to go back to being a full time Rhodie, at > least > > for a while. > > > > Chris & Alice Geankoplis > > Enosis 1, 2 & 3 > > > From chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com Tue Aug 11 08:35:39 2020 From: chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com (Chris Geankoplis) Date: Tue, 11 Aug 2020 07:35:39 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] New to Me Rhodes In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Only 2? Good start though. You can always slowly build up to the optimum number. Chris Geankoplis Enosis On Tue, 11 Aug 2020 at 07:29, Chris Geankoplis wrote: > With all the boats, actually there are a couple more in the family, I?m > thinking Onassis rather than the Pardeys. ( grin) I am just finishing up a > restoration of a 1972 Lyle Hess Designed Ensenada 20 for my son here in > Kansas, so perhaps there is some momentum here ( or exhaustion). > Chris Geankoplis > Enosis > > On Mon, 10 Aug 2020 at 22:27, Shawn Boles wrote: > >> The Pardey's have nothing on you two! Enjoy. >> >> Cheers, >> >> Shawn >> s/v Sweet Baboo >> >> >> On Mon, Aug 10, 2020, 8:11 PM Chris Geankoplis > > >> wrote: >> >> > Well I am announcing that I am bi-contenental. This is a Covid induced >> > affliction. And the fault of Sean Allen. It seems we can't get to >> > our Rhodes in the Med and are headed back to Maryland from Kansas, with >> > nothing to do for a couple of months. I thought, along with Alice, I >> > needed something to keep me busy until things cool down and we can >> return >> > to our floating home in Florida. Sean offered his Rhodes for sale at the >> > magic moment for us. What better way to pass the time in a resin fume >> > induced nirvana of a little glass work then some "test" sails on the >> > Chesapeake. It feels good to go back to being a full time Rhodie, at >> least >> > for a while. >> > >> > Chris & Alice Geankoplis >> > Enosis 1, 2 & 3 >> > >> > From seanallen1206 at gmail.com Tue Aug 11 08:47:33 2020 From: seanallen1206 at gmail.com (Sean Allen) Date: Tue, 11 Aug 2020 08:47:33 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] New to Me Rhodes In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Ha ha. Happy to help! Hope you enjoy this boat and restore her to former glory soon Chris! On Tue, Aug 11, 2020 at 8:17 AM Chris Geankoplis wrote: > Thanks for making this possible, Sean. Yup, it?s all your fault. (Grin) > Chris G > Enosis 123 > > > On Mon, 10 Aug 2020 at 22:27, Shawn Boles wrote: > > > The Pardey's have nothing on you two! Enjoy. > > > > Cheers, > > > > Shawn > > s/v Sweet Baboo > > > > > > On Mon, Aug 10, 2020, 8:11 PM Chris Geankoplis < > chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com> > > wrote: > > > > > Well I am announcing that I am bi-contenental. This is a Covid > induced > > > affliction. And the fault of Sean Allen. It seems we can't get to > > > our Rhodes in the Med and are headed back to Maryland from Kansas, with > > > nothing to do for a couple of months. I thought, along with Alice, I > > > needed something to keep me busy until things cool down and we can > return > > > to our floating home in Florida. Sean offered his Rhodes for sale at > the > > > magic moment for us. What better way to pass the time in a resin fume > > > induced nirvana of a little glass work then some "test" sails on the > > > Chesapeake. It feels good to go back to being a full time Rhodie, at > > least > > > for a while. > > > > > > Chris & Alice Geankoplis > > > Enosis 1, 2 & 3 > > > > > > From roger_pihlaja at msn.com Tue Aug 11 08:47:49 2020 From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA) Date: Tue, 11 Aug 2020 12:47:49 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Tiller auto pilot (Mike Riter) In-Reply-To: <61078A16-0E9B-428D-B306-0BFCCCA86F66@gmail.com> References: , <61078A16-0E9B-428D-B306-0BFCCCA86F66@gmail.com> Message-ID: Mike, We?ve had a RayMarine ST1000+ Tiller Pilot on S/V Dynamic Equilibrium since 2000. It?s been totally reliable in ~20 years of service. On any point of sail forward of a broad reach, it steers the boat as well as a competent human helmsman. But, on a run or a broad reach, particularly if there are waves from the stern quarter, the Tiller Pilot struggles to hold its course. The Tiller Pilot isn?t ?smart enough? to be able to steer when you are flying a spinnaker. In these conditions, a human helmsman has to anticipate the effect of wind shifts and the waves in order to hold course and the Tiller Pilot has no way to do that. But, I think this is more a function of the small size of the boat and not the fault of the Tiller Pilot. As a control engineer, I have tried tuning the factory controller settings to make it perform better when the wind is from astern. I think I may have been able to make it marginally better; but, the factory tuning is pretty good. So, as long as you don?t expect to be able to run for hours flying your triradial spinnaker under autopilot, it?s a pretty good investment. It?s great for short handed sailing. Roger Pihlaja S/V Dynamic Equilibrium Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Christopher Greco Sent: Monday, August 10, 2020 7:31 PM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Tiller auto pilot (Mike Riter) For everyday sailing, check out the Tiller Clutch by Wavefront Marine. Clever design convenient to use... works great Sent from my iPhone > On Aug 10, 2020, at 6:54 PM, Ken Simolo wrote: > > ?We love ours. I would certainly replace it if it broke. > > Ken > > > > 32. Tiller auto pilot (Mike Riter) > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 32 > Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2020 16:18:24 -0400 > From: Mike Riter > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Tiller auto pilot > Message-ID: > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8" > > I'm on the verge of spending the money to get an auto pilot for the boat. > I'm looking at the Raymarine st1000 and would love to hear any advice, > opinions, good, bad or ugly stories about what other Rhodes owners think. > > > Mike Riter > SV Emma B > > > --------- From roger_pihlaja at msn.com Tue Aug 11 08:53:44 2020 From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA) Date: Tue, 11 Aug 2020 12:53:44 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] New to Me Rhodes In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: Only 2? Full disclosure, besides S/V Dynamic Equilibrium, we have 4 sea kayaks, 1 canoe, a Walker Bay Genesis 3.4 m RIB, and a sailboard. You can never have too many water toys! Now, if only I had my lake back? Roger Pihlaja S/V Dynamic Equilibrium Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Chris Geankoplis Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2020 8:35 AM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] New to Me Rhodes Only 2? Good start though. You can always slowly build up to the optimum number. Chris Geankoplis Enosis On Tue, 11 Aug 2020 at 07:29, Chris Geankoplis wrote: > With all the boats, actually there are a couple more in the family, I?m > thinking Onassis rather than the Pardeys. ( grin) I am just finishing up a > restoration of a 1972 Lyle Hess Designed Ensenada 20 for my son here in > Kansas, so perhaps there is some momentum here ( or exhaustion). > Chris Geankoplis > Enosis > > On Mon, 10 Aug 2020 at 22:27, Shawn Boles wrote: > >> The Pardey's have nothing on you two! Enjoy. >> >> Cheers, >> >> Shawn >> s/v Sweet Baboo >> >> >> On Mon, Aug 10, 2020, 8:11 PM Chris Geankoplis > > >> wrote: >> >> > Well I am announcing that I am bi-contenental. This is a Covid induced >> > affliction. And the fault of Sean Allen. It seems we can't get to >> > our Rhodes in the Med and are headed back to Maryland from Kansas, with >> > nothing to do for a couple of months. I thought, along with Alice, I >> > needed something to keep me busy until things cool down and we can >> return >> > to our floating home in Florida. Sean offered his Rhodes for sale at the >> > magic moment for us. What better way to pass the time in a resin fume >> > induced nirvana of a little glass work then some "test" sails on the >> > Chesapeake. It feels good to go back to being a full time Rhodie, at >> least >> > for a while. >> > >> > Chris & Alice Geankoplis >> > Enosis 1, 2 & 3 >> > >> > From mike at traildesign.com Tue Aug 11 08:57:10 2020 From: mike at traildesign.com (Mike Riter) Date: Tue, 11 Aug 2020 08:57:10 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Tiller auto pilot (Mike Riter) In-Reply-To: <61078A16-0E9B-428D-B306-0BFCCCA86F66@gmail.com> References: <61078A16-0E9B-428D-B306-0BFCCCA86F66@gmail.com> Message-ID: Thanks for the replies. Christophoer, I looked at the Tiller Clutch, but want something I can connect to my chart plotter. Roger, that's great feedback. Some type of light air sail is in my future and so it's good to know the limitations of the st1000. It's amazing you've had yours so long. Mike Riter SV Emma B On Mon, Aug 10, 2020 at 7:31 PM Christopher Greco wrote: > For everyday sailing, check out the Tiller Clutch by Wavefront Marine. > Clever design convenient to use... works great > > Sent from my iPhone > > > On Aug 10, 2020, at 6:54 PM, Ken Simolo wrote: > > > > ?We love ours. I would certainly replace it if it broke. > > > > Ken > > > > > > > > 32. Tiller auto pilot (Mike Riter) > > > > ------------------------------ > > > > Message: 32 > > Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2020 16:18:24 -0400 > > From: Mike Riter > > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > > Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Tiller auto pilot > > Message-ID: > > > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8" > > > > I'm on the verge of spending the money to get an auto pilot for the boat. > > I'm looking at the Raymarine st1000 and would love to hear any advice, > > opinions, good, bad or ugly stories about what other Rhodes owners think. > > > > > > Mike Riter > > SV Emma B > > > > > > --------- > From mike at traildesign.com Tue Aug 11 09:07:21 2020 From: mike at traildesign.com (Mike Riter) Date: Tue, 11 Aug 2020 09:07:21 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Tiller auto pilot In-Reply-To: References: <004c01d66f56$06ac8b10$1405a130$@ebsmed.com> Message-ID: More great info! Thanks links to the archives Mike. All good info, and like Peter says, it answers my questions about what's needed to hook it to the Rhodes. Mike Riter SV Emma B On Mon, Aug 10, 2020 at 8:47 PM Peter Nyberg wrote: > Tom, > > The ST1000 is a stand-alone unit. The only connection it needs is power. > > ?Peter > > > On Aug 10, 2020, at 5:25 PM, Tom Van Heule < > tom.vanheule at intrinsicprograms.com> wrote: > > > > What other devices/kit do you need to integrate it usefully? > > If my understanding is correct, you would need to add a 'seabus' type > > device and have something (plotter/ipad/etc) to input to the autotiller. > > a LAN of sorts.... the autotiller cant just drive itself, right? > > Sounds like its worth doing from the member responses so far - but this > is > > not something GB specs out - would love to hear a DIY of retrofitting, or > > fitting rather. > > > > P.S. Is there a good way to search for video uploads to the archive? > Peter > > seems to have curated a lot... I saw a capsise test on a coast gaurd boat > > today, and wondered if any of us would sacrafice (not mine)/test for some > > video on Phil/Stans design to perform the same rollover test? maybe the > ROC > > would find a boat to show its meddle? just thoughts. rambling... etc. > > > > > > On Mon, Aug 10, 2020 at 3:37 PM Michael D. Weisner > > wrote: > > > >> Mike R, > >> > >> I love mine! > >> > >> Check out our list archives: > >> > >> > >> > http://www.rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attch/200610/10/TillerPilotSetuponRhodes22.pdf > >> > >> http://www.rhodes22.org/blew_skies/autohelm.html > >> > >> > http://www.rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/2003-November/011165.html > >> > >> Mike > >> s/v Wind Lass ('91) > >> Nissequogue River, NY > >> I?d rather be sailing :~) > >> > >> -----Original Message----- > >> From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of > >> Mike Riter > >> Sent: Monday, August 10, 2020 4:18 PM > >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > >> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Tiller auto pilot > >> > >> I'm on the verge of spending the money to get an auto pilot for the > boat. > >> I'm looking at the Raymarine st1000 and would love to hear any advice, > >> opinions, good, bad or ugly stories about what other Rhodes owners > think. > >> > >> > >> Mike Riter > >> SV Emma B > >> > >> > > > > -- > > Tom Van Heule > > Intrinsic Programs > > tom.vanheule at intrinsicprograms.com > > +1 303 525 5266 > > From mark at whipplefamily.com Tue Aug 11 11:42:30 2020 From: mark at whipplefamily.com (Mark Whipple) Date: Tue, 11 Aug 2020 11:42:30 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] New to Me Rhodes In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I keep telling my wife the optimal number of boats is N + 1, where N is the number of boats I currently own. You can imagine the reaction. Mark -- Boston, MA 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* 1986 Nimble 30 *For Sale* 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* On Tue, Aug 11, 2020 at 8:53 AM ROGER PIHLAJA wrote: > Only 2? Full disclosure, besides S/V Dynamic Equilibrium, we have 4 sea > kayaks, 1 canoe, a Walker Bay Genesis 3.4 m RIB, and a sailboard. You can > never have too many water toys! Now, if only I had my lake back? > > Roger Pihlaja > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > > From: Chris Geankoplis > Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2020 8:35 AM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] New to Me Rhodes > > Only 2? Good start though. You can always slowly build up to the optimum > number. > Chris Geankoplis > Enosis > > On Tue, 11 Aug 2020 at 07:29, Chris Geankoplis > wrote: > > > With all the boats, actually there are a couple more in the family, I?m > > thinking Onassis rather than the Pardeys. ( grin) I am just finishing > up a > > restoration of a 1972 Lyle Hess Designed Ensenada 20 for my son here in > > Kansas, so perhaps there is some momentum here ( or exhaustion). > > Chris Geankoplis > > Enosis > > > > On Mon, 10 Aug 2020 at 22:27, Shawn Boles > wrote: > > > >> The Pardey's have nothing on you two! Enjoy. > >> > >> Cheers, > >> > >> Shawn > >> s/v Sweet Baboo > >> > >> > >> On Mon, Aug 10, 2020, 8:11 PM Chris Geankoplis < > chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com > >> > > >> wrote: > >> > >> > Well I am announcing that I am bi-contenental. This is a Covid > induced > >> > affliction. And the fault of Sean Allen. It seems we can't get to > >> > our Rhodes in the Med and are headed back to Maryland from Kansas, > with > >> > nothing to do for a couple of months. I thought, along with Alice, I > >> > needed something to keep me busy until things cool down and we can > >> return > >> > to our floating home in Florida. Sean offered his Rhodes for sale at > the > >> > magic moment for us. What better way to pass the time in a resin fume > >> > induced nirvana of a little glass work then some "test" sails on the > >> > Chesapeake. It feels good to go back to being a full time Rhodie, at > >> least > >> > for a while. > >> > > >> > Chris & Alice Geankoplis > >> > Enosis 1, 2 & 3 > >> > > >> > > > > -- Boston, MA 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* 1986 Nimble 30 *For Sale* 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* From rlowe at vt.edu Tue Aug 11 11:48:34 2020 From: rlowe at vt.edu (Lowe, Rob) Date: Tue, 11 Aug 2020 15:48:34 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] New to Me Rhodes In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: +1 -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of Mark Whipple Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2020 11:43 AM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] New to Me Rhodes I keep telling my wife the optimal number of boats is N + 1, where N is the number of boats I currently own. You can imagine the reaction. Mark -- Boston, MA 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* 1986 Nimble 30 *For Sale* 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* On Tue, Aug 11, 2020 at 8:53 AM ROGER PIHLAJA wrote: > Only 2? Full disclosure, besides S/V Dynamic Equilibrium, we have 4 > sea kayaks, 1 canoe, a Walker Bay Genesis 3.4 m RIB, and a sailboard. > You can never have too many water toys! Now, if only I had my lake back? > > Roger Pihlaja > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > > From: Chris Geankoplis > Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2020 8:35 AM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] New to Me Rhodes > > Only 2? Good start though. You can always slowly build up to the > optimum number. > Chris Geankoplis > Enosis > > On Tue, 11 Aug 2020 at 07:29, Chris Geankoplis > > wrote: > > > With all the boats, actually there are a couple more in the family, > > I?m thinking Onassis rather than the Pardeys. ( grin) I am just > > finishing > up a > > restoration of a 1972 Lyle Hess Designed Ensenada 20 for my son here > > in Kansas, so perhaps there is some momentum here ( or exhaustion). > > Chris Geankoplis > > Enosis > > > > On Mon, 10 Aug 2020 at 22:27, Shawn Boles > wrote: > > > >> The Pardey's have nothing on you two! Enjoy. > >> > >> Cheers, > >> > >> Shawn > >> s/v Sweet Baboo > >> > >> > >> On Mon, Aug 10, 2020, 8:11 PM Chris Geankoplis < > chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com > >> > > >> wrote: > >> > >> > Well I am announcing that I am bi-contenental. This is a Covid > induced > >> > affliction. And the fault of Sean Allen. It seems we can't get > >> > to our Rhodes in the Med and are headed back to Maryland from > >> > Kansas, > with > >> > nothing to do for a couple of months. I thought, along with > >> > Alice, I needed something to keep me busy until things cool down > >> > and we can > >> return > >> > to our floating home in Florida. Sean offered his Rhodes for sale > >> > at > the > >> > magic moment for us. What better way to pass the time in a resin > >> > fume induced nirvana of a little glass work then some "test" > >> > sails on the Chesapeake. It feels good to go back to being a > >> > full time Rhodie, at > >> least > >> > for a while. > >> > > >> > Chris & Alice Geankoplis > >> > Enosis 1, 2 & 3 > >> > > >> > > > > -- Boston, MA 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* 1986 Nimble 30 *For Sale* 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* From mark at whipplefamily.com Tue Aug 11 11:54:43 2020 From: mark at whipplefamily.com (Mark Whipple) Date: Tue, 11 Aug 2020 11:54:43 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Radar? Message-ID: I think one of the great things about R22 owners is the interesting ways you all make modifications and additions to your boats - especially because GB packs so much into 22 feet out of the factory. My recent trip to Mount Desert Island in ME had me dreaming of sailing Luna Mia up there. Some of you know that the Maine coast is prone to fog, due to warm humid air over land blowing over cold water from the Labrador current. It seems like radar would be almost a requirement for cruising in Maine. So, has anyone put radar on a Rhodes 22? A little context: a while ago I purchased a Garmin 741xs bundle that had a GPS with a multifunction display and an 18" radome. I was going to put it on my Nimble 30 but now I'm selling that boat. I think putting the radome on the mast would not be ideal because I really don't want to add weight to it. So I'm thinking of a pole mounted behind the cockpit. I know that higher is better but everything is a compromise, right? I'd welcome any thoughts or suggestions. Thanks, Mark -- Boston, MA 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* 1986 Nimble 30 *For Sale* 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* From jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com Tue Aug 11 12:48:48 2020 From: jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com (JeffSmith) Date: Tue, 11 Aug 2020 09:48:48 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Tiller auto pilot (Mike Riter) In-Reply-To: References: <61078A16-0E9B-428D-B306-0BFCCCA86F66@gmail.com> Message-ID: <1597164528033-0.post@n5.nabble.com> The Simrad TP 16 has worked very well for me on my J/30 and now on the R22. I think you need the TP 22 to connect to GPS and a remote. ----- Jeff Smith 2009 R22 #101 RADIANT Atlantic Highlands Municpal Harbor Atlantic Highlands, NJ -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From peter at sunnybeeches.com Tue Aug 11 12:59:02 2020 From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg) Date: Tue, 11 Aug 2020 12:59:02 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Radar? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I?ve been thinking of the Furuno model DRS4W because the display can be on an iOS device, so there?s no need to figure out how and where to mount a display panel. Peter Nyberg Coventry, CT s/v Silverheels (1988/2016) > On Aug 11, 2020, at 11:54 AM, Mark Whipple wrote: > > I think one of the great things about R22 owners is the interesting ways > you all make modifications and additions to your boats - especially because > GB packs so much into 22 feet out of the factory. My recent trip to Mount > Desert Island in ME had me dreaming of sailing Luna Mia up there. Some of > you know that the Maine coast is prone to fog, due to warm humid air over > land blowing over cold water from the Labrador current. It seems like radar > would be almost a requirement for cruising in Maine. So, has anyone put > radar on a Rhodes 22? > > A little context: a while ago I purchased a Garmin 741xs bundle that had a > GPS with a multifunction display and an 18" radome. I was going to put it > on my Nimble 30 but now I'm selling that boat. > > I think putting the radome on the mast would not be ideal because I really > don't want to add weight to it. So I'm thinking of a pole mounted behind > the cockpit. I know that higher is better but everything is a compromise, > right? > > I'd welcome any thoughts or suggestions. > > Thanks, > Mark > > -- > Boston, MA > > 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* > 1986 Nimble 30 *For Sale* > 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* From mark at whipplefamily.com Tue Aug 11 13:11:35 2020 From: mark at whipplefamily.com (Mark Whipple) Date: Tue, 11 Aug 2020 13:11:35 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Radar? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Peter, How were you thinking you'd mount the radome? Mark On Tue, Aug 11, 2020 at 12:59 PM Peter Nyberg wrote: > I?ve been thinking of the Furuno model DRS4W because the display can be on > an iOS device, so there?s no need to figure out how and where to mount a > display panel. > > Peter Nyberg > Coventry, CT > s/v Silverheels (1988/2016) > > > On Aug 11, 2020, at 11:54 AM, Mark Whipple > wrote: > > > > I think one of the great things about R22 owners is the interesting ways > > you all make modifications and additions to your boats - especially > because > > GB packs so much into 22 feet out of the factory. My recent trip to Mount > > Desert Island in ME had me dreaming of sailing Luna Mia up there. Some of > > you know that the Maine coast is prone to fog, due to warm humid air over > > land blowing over cold water from the Labrador current. It seems like > radar > > would be almost a requirement for cruising in Maine. So, has anyone put > > radar on a Rhodes 22? > > > > A little context: a while ago I purchased a Garmin 741xs bundle that had > a > > GPS with a multifunction display and an 18" radome. I was going to put it > > on my Nimble 30 but now I'm selling that boat. > > > > I think putting the radome on the mast would not be ideal because I > really > > don't want to add weight to it. So I'm thinking of a pole mounted behind > > the cockpit. I know that higher is better but everything is a compromise, > > right? > > > > I'd welcome any thoughts or suggestions. > > > > Thanks, > > Mark > > > > -- > > Boston, MA > > > > 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* > > 1986 Nimble 30 *For Sale* > > 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* > > From Tejas.Hill at outlook.com Tue Aug 11 13:54:12 2020 From: Tejas.Hill at outlook.com (Tex Hill) Date: Tue, 11 Aug 2020 12:54:12 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Radar? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Make sure you mount it high enough so you aren?t in the line of sight. Tex Hill Sent from my iPad > On Aug 11, 2020, at 12:11 PM, Mark Whipple wrote: > > ?Peter, > > How were you thinking you'd mount the radome? > > Mark > >> On Tue, Aug 11, 2020 at 12:59 PM Peter Nyberg >> wrote: >> >> I?ve been thinking of the Furuno model DRS4W because the display can be on >> an iOS device, so there?s no need to figure out how and where to mount a >> display panel. >> >> Peter Nyberg >> Coventry, CT >> s/v Silverheels (1988/2016) >> >>> On Aug 11, 2020, at 11:54 AM, Mark Whipple >> wrote: >>> >>> I think one of the great things about R22 owners is the interesting ways >>> you all make modifications and additions to your boats - especially >> because >>> GB packs so much into 22 feet out of the factory. My recent trip to Mount >>> Desert Island in ME had me dreaming of sailing Luna Mia up there. Some of >>> you know that the Maine coast is prone to fog, due to warm humid air over >>> land blowing over cold water from the Labrador current. It seems like >> radar >>> would be almost a requirement for cruising in Maine. So, has anyone put >>> radar on a Rhodes 22? >>> >>> A little context: a while ago I purchased a Garmin 741xs bundle that had >> a >>> GPS with a multifunction display and an 18" radome. I was going to put it >>> on my Nimble 30 but now I'm selling that boat. >>> >>> I think putting the radome on the mast would not be ideal because I >> really >>> don't want to add weight to it. So I'm thinking of a pole mounted behind >>> the cockpit. I know that higher is better but everything is a compromise, >>> right? >>> >>> I'd welcome any thoughts or suggestions. >>> >>> Thanks, >>> Mark >>> >>> -- >>> Boston, MA >>> >>> 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* >>> 1986 Nimble 30 *For Sale* >>> 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* >> >> From mweisner at ebsmed.com Tue Aug 11 13:57:35 2020 From: mweisner at ebsmed.com (Michael D. Weisner) Date: Tue, 11 Aug 2020 13:57:35 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Radar? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <003d01d67008$e5681060$b0383120$@ebsmed.com> Peter, I thought that when I added the Autohelm and a Sirius/XM radio to my R22 I had gone too far. Now you have me looking at radar for $1,000 or less! The DRS4W only draws 2.1A at 12V. They recommend installation on a pole on the stern away from the shrouds. The manual is at https://www.furuno.it/docs/OPERATOR%20MANUALOME36360C8_DRS4W.pdf Hmmm ... Mike s/v Wind Lass ('91) Nissequogue River, NY I?d rather be sailing :~) -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of Mark Whipple Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2020 1:12 PM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Radar? Peter, How were you thinking you'd mount the radome? Mark On Tue, Aug 11, 2020 at 12:59 PM Peter Nyberg wrote: > I?ve been thinking of the Furuno model DRS4W because the display can > be on an iOS device, so there?s no need to figure out how and where to > mount a display panel. > > Peter Nyberg > Coventry, CT > s/v Silverheels (1988/2016) > > > On Aug 11, 2020, at 11:54 AM, Mark Whipple > wrote: > > > > I think one of the great things about R22 owners is the interesting > > ways you all make modifications and additions to your boats - > > especially > because > > GB packs so much into 22 feet out of the factory. My recent trip to > > Mount Desert Island in ME had me dreaming of sailing Luna Mia up > > there. Some of you know that the Maine coast is prone to fog, due to > > warm humid air over land blowing over cold water from the Labrador > > current. It seems like > radar > > would be almost a requirement for cruising in Maine. So, has anyone > > put radar on a Rhodes 22? > > > > A little context: a while ago I purchased a Garmin 741xs bundle that > > had > a > > GPS with a multifunction display and an 18" radome. I was going to > > put it on my Nimble 30 but now I'm selling that boat. > > > > I think putting the radome on the mast would not be ideal because I > really > > don't want to add weight to it. So I'm thinking of a pole mounted > > behind the cockpit. I know that higher is better but everything is a > > compromise, right? > > > > I'd welcome any thoughts or suggestions. > > > > Thanks, > > Mark > > > > -- > > Boston, MA > > > > 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* > > 1986 Nimble 30 *For Sale* > > 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* > > From peter at sunnybeeches.com Tue Aug 11 14:11:23 2020 From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg) Date: Tue, 11 Aug 2020 14:11:23 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Radar? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <93AE7C1A-ED55-4BD2-94AE-9EA2997A3CD2@sunnybeeches.com> Mark, Well, I have that whole solar arch construct I built on the back end of the boat to support my two 100 watt solar panels. As I recall, the radome is pretty light (~15 lbs?), so the arch shouldn?t have any problem supporting that as well. Without an arch, I?d say a pole mounted to the transom would be the way to go. I see a lot of sailboats with a radome mounted that way. I think there would be room between the rudder and the swim ladder, without limiting the swing of the rudder at all. ?Peter > On Aug 11, 2020, at 1:11 PM, Mark Whipple wrote: > > Peter, > > How were you thinking you'd mount the radome? > > Mark > > On Tue, Aug 11, 2020 at 12:59 PM Peter Nyberg > wrote: > >> I?ve been thinking of the Furuno model DRS4W because the display can be on >> an iOS device, so there?s no need to figure out how and where to mount a >> display panel. >> >> Peter Nyberg >> Coventry, CT >> s/v Silverheels (1988/2016) >> >>> On Aug 11, 2020, at 11:54 AM, Mark Whipple >> wrote: >>> >>> I think one of the great things about R22 owners is the interesting ways >>> you all make modifications and additions to your boats - especially >> because >>> GB packs so much into 22 feet out of the factory. My recent trip to Mount >>> Desert Island in ME had me dreaming of sailing Luna Mia up there. Some of >>> you know that the Maine coast is prone to fog, due to warm humid air over >>> land blowing over cold water from the Labrador current. It seems like >> radar >>> would be almost a requirement for cruising in Maine. So, has anyone put >>> radar on a Rhodes 22? >>> >>> A little context: a while ago I purchased a Garmin 741xs bundle that had >> a >>> GPS with a multifunction display and an 18" radome. I was going to put it >>> on my Nimble 30 but now I'm selling that boat. >>> >>> I think putting the radome on the mast would not be ideal because I >> really >>> don't want to add weight to it. So I'm thinking of a pole mounted behind >>> the cockpit. I know that higher is better but everything is a compromise, >>> right? >>> >>> I'd welcome any thoughts or suggestions. >>> >>> Thanks, >>> Mark >>> >>> -- >>> Boston, MA >>> >>> 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* >>> 1986 Nimble 30 *For Sale* >>> 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* >> >> From gstewart8 at cogeco.ca Tue Aug 11 14:45:46 2020 From: gstewart8 at cogeco.ca (Graham Stewart) Date: Tue, 11 Aug 2020 14:45:46 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] New to Me Rhodes In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <011e01d6700f$a2568d90$e703a8b0$@ca> I rarely see a boat I don't need. Graham Stewart Agile, Rodes 22, 1976 Kingston Ontario -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Mark Whipple Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2020 11:43 AM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] New to Me Rhodes I keep telling my wife the optimal number of boats is N + 1, where N is the number of boats I currently own. You can imagine the reaction. Mark -- Boston, MA 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* 1986 Nimble 30 *For Sale* 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* On Tue, Aug 11, 2020 at 8:53 AM ROGER PIHLAJA wrote: > Only 2? Full disclosure, besides S/V Dynamic Equilibrium, we have 4 sea > kayaks, 1 canoe, a Walker Bay Genesis 3.4 m RIB, and a sailboard. You can > never have too many water toys! Now, if only I had my lake back? > > Roger Pihlaja > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > > From: Chris Geankoplis > Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2020 8:35 AM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] New to Me Rhodes > > Only 2? Good start though. You can always slowly build up to the optimum > number. > Chris Geankoplis > Enosis > > On Tue, 11 Aug 2020 at 07:29, Chris Geankoplis > wrote: > > > With all the boats, actually there are a couple more in the family, I?m > > thinking Onassis rather than the Pardeys. ( grin) I am just finishing > up a > > restoration of a 1972 Lyle Hess Designed Ensenada 20 for my son here in > > Kansas, so perhaps there is some momentum here ( or exhaustion). > > Chris Geankoplis > > Enosis > > > > On Mon, 10 Aug 2020 at 22:27, Shawn Boles > wrote: > > > >> The Pardey's have nothing on you two! Enjoy. > >> > >> Cheers, > >> > >> Shawn > >> s/v Sweet Baboo > >> > >> > >> On Mon, Aug 10, 2020, 8:11 PM Chris Geankoplis < > chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com > >> > > >> wrote: > >> > >> > Well I am announcing that I am bi-contenental. This is a Covid > induced > >> > affliction. And the fault of Sean Allen. It seems we can't get to > >> > our Rhodes in the Med and are headed back to Maryland from Kansas, > with > >> > nothing to do for a couple of months. I thought, along with Alice, I > >> > needed something to keep me busy until things cool down and we can > >> return > >> > to our floating home in Florida. Sean offered his Rhodes for sale at > the > >> > magic moment for us. What better way to pass the time in a resin fume > >> > induced nirvana of a little glass work then some "test" sails on the > >> > Chesapeake. It feels good to go back to being a full time Rhodie, at > >> least > >> > for a while. > >> > > >> > Chris & Alice Geankoplis > >> > Enosis 1, 2 & 3 > >> > > >> > > > > -- Boston, MA 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* 1986 Nimble 30 *For Sale* 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* From jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com Tue Aug 11 14:50:14 2020 From: jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com (Jesse Shumaker) Date: Tue, 11 Aug 2020 13:50:14 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] New to Me Rhodes In-Reply-To: <011e01d6700f$a2568d90$e703a8b0$@ca> References: <011e01d6700f$a2568d90$e703a8b0$@ca> Message-ID: This kind of sounds like a support group, which I guess it is in a good way. Overheard at my local sailing club: "If someone doesn't understand your need to have more than one boat, then it's time to adjust who you are spending time with." On Tue, Aug 11, 2020 at 1:45 PM Graham Stewart wrote: > I rarely see a boat I don't need. > > Graham Stewart > Agile, Rodes 22, 1976 > Kingston Ontario > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf > Of Mark Whipple > Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2020 11:43 AM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] New to Me Rhodes > > I keep telling my wife the optimal number of boats is N + 1, where N is the > number of boats I currently own. You can imagine the reaction. > > Mark > -- > Boston, MA > > 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* > 1986 Nimble 30 *For Sale* > 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* > On Tue, Aug 11, 2020 at 8:53 AM ROGER PIHLAJA > wrote: > > > Only 2? Full disclosure, besides S/V Dynamic Equilibrium, we have 4 sea > > kayaks, 1 canoe, a Walker Bay Genesis 3.4 m RIB, and a sailboard. You > can > > never have too many water toys! Now, if only I had my lake back? > > > > Roger Pihlaja > > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium > > > > Sent from Mail for > > Windows 10 > > > > From: Chris Geankoplis > > Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2020 8:35 AM > > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] New to Me Rhodes > > > > Only 2? Good start though. You can always slowly build up to the optimum > > number. > > Chris Geankoplis > > Enosis > > > > On Tue, 11 Aug 2020 at 07:29, Chris Geankoplis < > chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com> > > wrote: > > > > > With all the boats, actually there are a couple more in the family, I?m > > > thinking Onassis rather than the Pardeys. ( grin) I am just finishing > > up a > > > restoration of a 1972 Lyle Hess Designed Ensenada 20 for my son here in > > > Kansas, so perhaps there is some momentum here ( or exhaustion). > > > Chris Geankoplis > > > Enosis > > > > > > On Mon, 10 Aug 2020 at 22:27, Shawn Boles > > wrote: > > > > > >> The Pardey's have nothing on you two! Enjoy. > > >> > > >> Cheers, > > >> > > >> Shawn > > >> s/v Sweet Baboo > > >> > > >> > > >> On Mon, Aug 10, 2020, 8:11 PM Chris Geankoplis < > > chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com > > >> > > > >> wrote: > > >> > > >> > Well I am announcing that I am bi-contenental. This is a Covid > > induced > > >> > affliction. And the fault of Sean Allen. It seems we can't get to > > >> > our Rhodes in the Med and are headed back to Maryland from Kansas, > > with > > >> > nothing to do for a couple of months. I thought, along with Alice, > I > > >> > needed something to keep me busy until things cool down and we can > > >> return > > >> > to our floating home in Florida. Sean offered his Rhodes for sale at > > the > > >> > magic moment for us. What better way to pass the time in a resin > fume > > >> > induced nirvana of a little glass work then some "test" sails on the > > >> > Chesapeake. It feels good to go back to being a full time Rhodie, > at > > >> least > > >> > for a while. > > >> > > > >> > Chris & Alice Geankoplis > > >> > Enosis 1, 2 & 3 > > >> > > > >> > > > > > > > > > -- > Boston, MA > > 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* > 1986 Nimble 30 *For Sale* > 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* > > From talmorin at hotmail.com Tue Aug 11 14:53:33 2020 From: talmorin at hotmail.com (Thomas s) Date: Tue, 11 Aug 2020 18:53:33 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] New to Me Rhodes In-Reply-To: <011e01d6700f$a2568d90$e703a8b0$@ca> References: , <011e01d6700f$a2568d90$e703a8b0$@ca> Message-ID: I see lots of them, but they are typically loud and filled with obnoxious people ? Tom > On Aug 11, 2020, at 1:45 PM, Graham Stewart wrote: > > ?I rarely see a boat I don't need. > > Graham Stewart > Agile, Rodes 22, 1976 > Kingston Ontario > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Mark Whipple > Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2020 11:43 AM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] New to Me Rhodes > > I keep telling my wife the optimal number of boats is N + 1, where N is the > number of boats I currently own. You can imagine the reaction. > > Mark > -- > Boston, MA > > 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* > 1986 Nimble 30 *For Sale* > 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* >> On Tue, Aug 11, 2020 at 8:53 AM ROGER PIHLAJA wrote: >> >> Only 2? Full disclosure, besides S/V Dynamic Equilibrium, we have 4 sea >> kayaks, 1 canoe, a Walker Bay Genesis 3.4 m RIB, and a sailboard. You can >> never have too many water toys! Now, if only I had my lake back? >> >> Roger Pihlaja >> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium >> >> Sent from Mail for >> Windows 10 >> >> From: Chris Geankoplis >> Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2020 8:35 AM >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] New to Me Rhodes >> >> Only 2? Good start though. You can always slowly build up to the optimum >> number. >> Chris Geankoplis >> Enosis >> >> On Tue, 11 Aug 2020 at 07:29, Chris Geankoplis >> wrote: >> >>> With all the boats, actually there are a couple more in the family, I?m >>> thinking Onassis rather than the Pardeys. ( grin) I am just finishing >> up a >>> restoration of a 1972 Lyle Hess Designed Ensenada 20 for my son here in >>> Kansas, so perhaps there is some momentum here ( or exhaustion). >>> Chris Geankoplis >>> Enosis >>> >>> On Mon, 10 Aug 2020 at 22:27, Shawn Boles >> wrote: >>> >>>> The Pardey's have nothing on you two! Enjoy. >>>> >>>> Cheers, >>>> >>>> Shawn >>>> s/v Sweet Baboo >>>> >>>> >>>> On Mon, Aug 10, 2020, 8:11 PM Chris Geankoplis < >> chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com >>>>> >>>> wrote: >>>> >>>>> Well I am announcing that I am bi-contenental. This is a Covid >> induced >>>>> affliction. And the fault of Sean Allen. It seems we can't get to >>>>> our Rhodes in the Med and are headed back to Maryland from Kansas, >> with >>>>> nothing to do for a couple of months. I thought, along with Alice, I >>>>> needed something to keep me busy until things cool down and we can >>>> return >>>>> to our floating home in Florida. Sean offered his Rhodes for sale at >> the >>>>> magic moment for us. What better way to pass the time in a resin fume >>>>> induced nirvana of a little glass work then some "test" sails on the >>>>> Chesapeake. It feels good to go back to being a full time Rhodie, at >>>> least >>>>> for a while. >>>>> >>>>> Chris & Alice Geankoplis >>>>> Enosis 1, 2 & 3 >>>>> >>>> >>> >> >> > > -- > Boston, MA > > 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* > 1986 Nimble 30 *For Sale* > 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* > From roger_pihlaja at msn.com Tue Aug 11 17:56:26 2020 From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA) Date: Tue, 11 Aug 2020 21:56:26 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] New to Me Rhodes In-Reply-To: References: , <011e01d6700f$a2568d90$e703a8b0$@ca>, Message-ID: I keep telling my wife that I was planning to use our lake and all the water toys to entice my grandchildren to come and visit us. With our lake gone for the next 4-6 years, all I have is my wits and charm ? I think I?m going to be a lonely old man? Roger Pihlaja S/V Dynamic Equilibrium Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Thomas s Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2020 2:53 PM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] New to Me Rhodes I see lots of them, but they are typically loud and filled with obnoxious people ? Tom > On Aug 11, 2020, at 1:45 PM, Graham Stewart wrote: > > ?I rarely see a boat I don't need. > > Graham Stewart > Agile, Rodes 22, 1976 > Kingston Ontario > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Mark Whipple > Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2020 11:43 AM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] New to Me Rhodes > > I keep telling my wife the optimal number of boats is N + 1, where N is the > number of boats I currently own. You can imagine the reaction. > > Mark > -- > Boston, MA > > 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* > 1986 Nimble 30 *For Sale* > 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* >> On Tue, Aug 11, 2020 at 8:53 AM ROGER PIHLAJA wrote: >> >> Only 2? Full disclosure, besides S/V Dynamic Equilibrium, we have 4 sea >> kayaks, 1 canoe, a Walker Bay Genesis 3.4 m RIB, and a sailboard. You can >> never have too many water toys! Now, if only I had my lake back? >> >> Roger Pihlaja >> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium >> >> Sent from Mail for >> Windows 10 >> >> From: Chris Geankoplis >> Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2020 8:35 AM >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] New to Me Rhodes >> >> Only 2? Good start though. You can always slowly build up to the optimum >> number. >> Chris Geankoplis >> Enosis >> >> On Tue, 11 Aug 2020 at 07:29, Chris Geankoplis >> wrote: >> >>> With all the boats, actually there are a couple more in the family, I?m >>> thinking Onassis rather than the Pardeys. ( grin) I am just finishing >> up a >>> restoration of a 1972 Lyle Hess Designed Ensenada 20 for my son here in >>> Kansas, so perhaps there is some momentum here ( or exhaustion). >>> Chris Geankoplis >>> Enosis >>> >>> On Mon, 10 Aug 2020 at 22:27, Shawn Boles >> wrote: >>> >>>> The Pardey's have nothing on you two! Enjoy. >>>> >>>> Cheers, >>>> >>>> Shawn >>>> s/v Sweet Baboo >>>> >>>> >>>> On Mon, Aug 10, 2020, 8:11 PM Chris Geankoplis < >> chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com >>>>> >>>> wrote: >>>> >>>>> Well I am announcing that I am bi-contenental. This is a Covid >> induced >>>>> affliction. And the fault of Sean Allen. It seems we can't get to >>>>> our Rhodes in the Med and are headed back to Maryland from Kansas, >> with >>>>> nothing to do for a couple of months. I thought, along with Alice, I >>>>> needed something to keep me busy until things cool down and we can >>>> return >>>>> to our floating home in Florida. Sean offered his Rhodes for sale at >> the >>>>> magic moment for us. What better way to pass the time in a resin fume >>>>> induced nirvana of a little glass work then some "test" sails on the >>>>> Chesapeake. It feels good to go back to being a full time Rhodie, at >>>> least >>>>> for a while. >>>>> >>>>> Chris & Alice Geankoplis >>>>> Enosis 1, 2 & 3 >>>>> >>>> >>> >> >> > > -- > Boston, MA > > 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* > 1986 Nimble 30 *For Sale* > 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* > From chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com Tue Aug 11 20:04:15 2020 From: chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com (Chris Geankoplis) Date: Tue, 11 Aug 2020 19:04:15 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] New to Me Rhodes In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: To quote that great movie "Hot Fuzz". Yarp. Chris G On Tue, Aug 11, 2020 at 7:47 AM Sean Allen wrote: > Ha ha. Happy to help! Hope you enjoy this boat and restore her to former > glory soon Chris! > > On Tue, Aug 11, 2020 at 8:17 AM Chris Geankoplis < > chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com> > wrote: > > > Thanks for making this possible, Sean. Yup, it?s all your fault. (Grin) > > Chris G > > Enosis 123 > > > > > > On Mon, 10 Aug 2020 at 22:27, Shawn Boles > wrote: > > > > > The Pardey's have nothing on you two! Enjoy. > > > > > > Cheers, > > > > > > Shawn > > > s/v Sweet Baboo > > > > > > > > > On Mon, Aug 10, 2020, 8:11 PM Chris Geankoplis < > > chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com> > > > wrote: > > > > > > > Well I am announcing that I am bi-contenental. This is a Covid > > induced > > > > affliction. And the fault of Sean Allen. It seems we can't get to > > > > our Rhodes in the Med and are headed back to Maryland from Kansas, > with > > > > nothing to do for a couple of months. I thought, along with Alice, I > > > > needed something to keep me busy until things cool down and we can > > return > > > > to our floating home in Florida. Sean offered his Rhodes for sale at > > the > > > > magic moment for us. What better way to pass the time in a resin > fume > > > > induced nirvana of a little glass work then some "test" sails on the > > > > Chesapeake. It feels good to go back to being a full time Rhodie, at > > > least > > > > for a while. > > > > > > > > Chris & Alice Geankoplis > > > > Enosis 1, 2 & 3 > > > > > > > > > > From chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com Tue Aug 11 20:06:27 2020 From: chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com (Chris Geankoplis) Date: Tue, 11 Aug 2020 19:06:27 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] New to Me Rhodes In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Ha, ha, Roger. Kind of like all boated up and no place to go. Well you can drag them about to other places, that is the joy of small boats. Chris G Enosis On Tue, Aug 11, 2020 at 7:53 AM ROGER PIHLAJA wrote: > Only 2? Full disclosure, besides S/V Dynamic Equilibrium, we have 4 sea > kayaks, 1 canoe, a Walker Bay Genesis 3.4 m RIB, and a sailboard. You can > never have too many water toys! Now, if only I had my lake back? > > Roger Pihlaja > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > > From: Chris Geankoplis > Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2020 8:35 AM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] New to Me Rhodes > > Only 2? Good start though. You can always slowly build up to the optimum > number. > Chris Geankoplis > Enosis > > On Tue, 11 Aug 2020 at 07:29, Chris Geankoplis > wrote: > > > With all the boats, actually there are a couple more in the family, I?m > > thinking Onassis rather than the Pardeys. ( grin) I am just finishing > up a > > restoration of a 1972 Lyle Hess Designed Ensenada 20 for my son here in > > Kansas, so perhaps there is some momentum here ( or exhaustion). > > Chris Geankoplis > > Enosis > > > > On Mon, 10 Aug 2020 at 22:27, Shawn Boles > wrote: > > > >> The Pardey's have nothing on you two! Enjoy. > >> > >> Cheers, > >> > >> Shawn > >> s/v Sweet Baboo > >> > >> > >> On Mon, Aug 10, 2020, 8:11 PM Chris Geankoplis < > chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com > >> > > >> wrote: > >> > >> > Well I am announcing that I am bi-contenental. This is a Covid > induced > >> > affliction. And the fault of Sean Allen. It seems we can't get to > >> > our Rhodes in the Med and are headed back to Maryland from Kansas, > with > >> > nothing to do for a couple of months. I thought, along with Alice, I > >> > needed something to keep me busy until things cool down and we can > >> return > >> > to our floating home in Florida. Sean offered his Rhodes for sale at > the > >> > magic moment for us. What better way to pass the time in a resin fume > >> > induced nirvana of a little glass work then some "test" sails on the > >> > Chesapeake. It feels good to go back to being a full time Rhodie, at > >> least > >> > for a while. > >> > > >> > Chris & Alice Geankoplis > >> > Enosis 1, 2 & 3 > >> > > >> > > > > From a_czerwonky at yahoo.com Tue Aug 11 23:36:23 2020 From: a_czerwonky at yahoo.com (Art Czerwonky) Date: Wed, 12 Aug 2020 03:36:23 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Hull Identification Number In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <514185527.679932.1597203383172@mail.yahoo.com> Curtis,The state used to send a ranger out to validate papers and hull number (a pencil tracing may be adequate) and likely assign a new number compatible with the current state hull number nomenclature requirements. They will likely make a metal strip so stamped to be attached to the boat.Art Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android On Mon, Aug 10, 2020 at 10:50 AM, Cary Tolbert wrote: Curtis, I looked up your HIN at BoatPro it had all of the info. Mfg , address, etc. The hull number showed a problem with 3 Digits of the HIN. They were "4D7". DMVs are a real pain to deal with if anything is out of their 85% range. I had a similar situation on my boat trailer because NJ did not require registration? on trailers. Some where the title was lost between the previous owners. I had to go to the STATE DMV at the Capitol in Richmond and finally got everything clear, a tension ball and a bottle of TUMS later. Best of luck. Cary Tolbert S/V Whisper 86 On Mon, Aug 10, 2020 at 10:34 AM Michael D. Weisner wrote: > Curtis, > The HIN was coded, according to our archives, using the method referenced > below:http://www.rhodes22.org/blew_skies/hull1.htmlI'm not sure why the > state needs to validate it further if you have a photo and title or > registration from the previous owner. Mikes/v Wind Lass ('91)Nissequogue, NY > From Roger_Pihlaja at msn.com Thu Aug 13 07:59:01 2020 From: Roger_Pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA) Date: Thu, 13 Aug 2020 11:59:01 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Wish me luck Message-ID: Hi All, Well, later today I?m leaving with my Boy Scout Troop on our Shipwreck SCUBA Diving High Adventure Trip! We will be camping in Straits State Park in St. Ignace, MI. Our dive charter boat will pick up/drop off from the St. Ignace Harbor of Refuge, which is about a 10 minute drive from our campsite. Weather permitting, we will make 2 dives per day each on Friday and Saturday, for a total of 4 dives. The weather forecast in the Straits of Mackinac looks pretty good with sunny skies and temperatures in the low 80?s deg F for both dive days. However, the wind is forecast to be 15-20 mph from the E and SE. This sort of wind can make the Straits of Mackinac very rough. This narrow strait at the northern end of Lakes Michigan and Huron tends to develop ?pyramid-shaped? waves as the wave patterns from the two lakes constructively and destructively interfere with each other. Even worse, it can cause strong underwater currents thru the Straits to form, which we don?t want to have to deal with. The underwater currents may force us to adjust which shipwrecks we visit for safety reasons. The only positive factor here is that the wind has been blowing like that for several days. So, the lakes may already be equalized in their wind driven levels and the underwater current may be OK. We will be relying on the local knowledge of our divemaster and dive charter boat operator to access this safety concern. Yes, this is serious blue water diving and it?s not idiot proof! This is also one reason why there are so many shipwrecks here. Anyway, one way or another, I?ll be back Sunday afternoon. Wish me luck! Roger Pihlaja S/V Dynamic Equilibrium Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From keywestseccorp at verizon.net Thu Aug 13 08:50:11 2020 From: keywestseccorp at verizon.net (Mark West) Date: Thu, 13 Aug 2020 12:50:11 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Wish me luck In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <976538315.1044825.1597323011642@mail.yahoo.com> great organization thanks for? volunteering .have you ever been to the scout camp on east peak outside Walsenburg Colorado? -----Original Message----- From: ROGER PIHLAJA To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Sent: Thu, Aug 13, 2020 7:59 am Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Wish me luck Hi All, Well, later today I?m leaving with my Boy Scout Troop on our Shipwreck SCUBA Diving High Adventure Trip!? We will be camping in Straits State Park in St. Ignace, MI.? Our dive charter boat will pick up/drop off from the St. Ignace Harbor of Refuge, which is about a 10 minute drive from our campsite.? Weather permitting, we will make 2 dives per day each on Friday and Saturday, for a total of 4 dives.? The weather forecast in the Straits of Mackinac looks pretty good with sunny skies and temperatures in the low 80?s deg F for both dive days.? However, the wind is forecast to be 15-20 mph from the E and SE.? This sort of wind can make the Straits of Mackinac very rough.? This narrow strait at the northern end of Lakes Michigan and Huron tends to develop ?pyramid-shaped? waves as the wave patterns from the two lakes constructively and destructively interfere with each other.? Even worse, it can cause strong underwater currents thru the Straits to form, which we don?t want to have to deal with.? The underwater currents may force us to adjust which shipwrecks we visit for safety reasons.? The only positive factor here is that the wind has been blowing like that for several days.? So, the lakes may already be equalized in their wind driven levels and the underwater current may be OK.? We will be relying on the local knowledge of our divemaster and dive charter boat operator to access this safety concern.? Yes, this is serious blue water diving and it?s not idiot proof!? This is also one reason why there are so many shipwrecks here. Anyway, one way or another, I?ll be back Sunday afternoon.? Wish me luck! Roger Pihlaja S/V Dynamic Equilibrium Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From hnw555 at gmail.com Thu Aug 13 08:50:07 2020 From: hnw555 at gmail.com (Hank) Date: Thu, 13 Aug 2020 08:50:07 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Wish me luck In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Have a great trip, Roger! Looking forward to the tales of how it went when you get back. Hank On Thu, Aug 13, 2020 at 7:59 AM ROGER PIHLAJA wrote: > Hi All, > > Well, later today I?m leaving with my Boy Scout Troop on our Shipwreck > SCUBA Diving High Adventure Trip! We will be camping in Straits State Park > in St. Ignace, MI. Our dive charter boat will pick up/drop off from the > St. Ignace Harbor of Refuge, which is about a 10 minute drive from our > campsite. Weather permitting, we will make 2 dives per day each on Friday > and Saturday, for a total of 4 dives. The weather forecast in the Straits > of Mackinac looks pretty good with sunny skies and temperatures in the low > 80?s deg F for both dive days. However, the wind is forecast to be 15-20 > mph from the E and SE. This sort of wind can make the Straits of Mackinac > very rough. This narrow strait at the northern end of Lakes Michigan and > Huron tends to develop ?pyramid-shaped? waves as the wave patterns from the > two lakes constructively and destructively interfere with each other. Even > worse, it can cause strong underwater currents thru the Straits to form, > which we don?t want to have to deal with. The underwater currents may > force us to adjust which shipwrecks we visit for safety reasons. The only > positive factor here is that the wind has been blowing like that for > several days. So, the lakes may already be equalized in their wind driven > levels and the underwater current may be OK. We will be relying on the > local knowledge of our divemaster and dive charter boat operator to access > this safety concern. Yes, this is serious blue water diving and it?s not > idiot proof! This is also one reason why there are so many shipwrecks here. > > Anyway, one way or another, I?ll be back Sunday afternoon. Wish me luck! > > Roger Pihlaja > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium > > > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > > From mark at whipplefamily.com Thu Aug 13 09:21:37 2020 From: mark at whipplefamily.com (Mark Whipple) Date: Thu, 13 Aug 2020 09:21:37 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] CB Pennant drain In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Just in case you wanted to know the rest of the story: Yesterday I finally got around to completing the replacement of drain on the bridge deck that the centerboard pennant runs through. I have a 2000 Rhodes 22. It took a little bit of experimentation but I found a 1 1/4" ID hose fits the upper part of the drain and a 3/4" hose fits on the bottom. I got a 1 1/4" to 3/4" adapter to join the two. Add some hose clamps, remember to thread the CB pennant through it all before installing, and then it's just getting the lengths right so it can all go together but still be long enough to be clamped. Attached is a couple pics of the finished product along with the monstrosity I removed. What you don't see in the "before" shot is the completely rusted hose clamps that I had to use a Dremel to remove. The slit in the old hose is also from the removal process. Mark -- Boston, MA 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* 1987 Nimble 30 *For Sale* 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* On Mon, Jun 15, 2020 at 8:10 PM Mark Whipple wrote: > Hi All, > > If this is in the archives somewhere let me know. I've done a little > searching on Nabble and didn't find what I needed. I need to replace the > hose that connects the drain the CB/diamondboard pennant runs through. > > It looks like the OD of the lower section (closer to the CB) is 7/8" OD. > The top section where the pennant exits is about 1" ID, so I'm guessing > it's about 1 1/4" OD. Total possible length looks to be about 10". The > difference in diameters partially explains the abomination that I removed. > Someone tried to mate two different hoses with clamps and lots of silicone. > > What has worked well for you in replacing this drain hose? I am wondering > if I can get a hose that will fit the upper part of the drain, and then use > a modified section of that same hose to bring the bottom fitting closer to > 1 1/4". Then I'd put the larger hose over the smaller one, clamping the > smaller section low and then the larger, overlapping hose as well. > > Thanks > Mark Whipple > Boston, MA > > 2000 R22 Luna Mia > 1987 Nimble 30 (for sale) > 1982 ComPac 16 (for sale) > > > -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20200812_182047.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 109027 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20200812_182100.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 267020 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20200813_082227.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 285444 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20200813_082201.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 288970 bytes Desc: not available URL: From gstewart8 at cogeco.ca Thu Aug 13 09:30:10 2020 From: gstewart8 at cogeco.ca (Graham Stewart) Date: Thu, 13 Aug 2020 09:30:10 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] CB Pennant drain In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <001701d67175$e0b6d880$a2248980$@ca> Mark: Neat install. What did you use for a thru hull? Graham Stewart Agile, Rodes 22, 1976 Kingston Ontario -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Mark Whipple Sent: Thursday, August 13, 2020 9:22 AM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] CB Pennant drain Just in case you wanted to know the rest of the story: Yesterday I finally got around to completing the replacement of drain on the bridge deck that the centerboard pennant runs through. I have a 2000 Rhodes 22. It took a little bit of experimentation but I found a 1 1/4" ID hose fits the upper part of the drain and a 3/4" hose fits on the bottom. I got a 1 1/4" to 3/4" adapter to join the two. Add some hose clamps, remember to thread the CB pennant through it all before installing, and then it's just getting the lengths right so it can all go together but still be long enough to be clamped. Attached is a couple pics of the finished product along with the monstrosity I removed. What you don't see in the "before" shot is the completely rusted hose clamps that I had to use a Dremel to remove. The slit in the old hose is also from the removal process. Mark -- Boston, MA 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* 1987 Nimble 30 *For Sale* 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* On Mon, Jun 15, 2020 at 8:10 PM Mark Whipple wrote: > Hi All, > > If this is in the archives somewhere let me know. I've done a little > searching on Nabble and didn't find what I needed. I need to replace the > hose that connects the drain the CB/diamondboard pennant runs through. > > It looks like the OD of the lower section (closer to the CB) is 7/8" OD. > The top section where the pennant exits is about 1" ID, so I'm guessing > it's about 1 1/4" OD. Total possible length looks to be about 10". The > difference in diameters partially explains the abomination that I removed. > Someone tried to mate two different hoses with clamps and lots of silicone. > > What has worked well for you in replacing this drain hose? I am wondering > if I can get a hose that will fit the upper part of the drain, and then use > a modified section of that same hose to bring the bottom fitting closer to > 1 1/4". Then I'd put the larger hose over the smaller one, clamping the > smaller section low and then the larger, overlapping hose as well. > > Thanks > Mark Whipple > Boston, MA > > 2000 R22 Luna Mia > 1987 Nimble 30 (for sale) > 1982 ComPac 16 (for sale) > > > -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20200812_182047.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 109027 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20200812_182100.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 267020 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20200813_082227.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 285444 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20200813_082201.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 288970 bytes Desc: not available URL: From jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com Thu Aug 13 09:31:43 2020 From: jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com (Jesse Shumaker) Date: Thu, 13 Aug 2020 08:31:43 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] CB Pennant drain In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Mark, thanks for sharing. On my 1991 R22, it appears that the CB pennant hoses are aft of the cabin and forward of the cockpit so they are hidden from view. If I had to access that, I assume that I would need to cut out a panel of the fiberglass at the aft of the cabin. Has anyone on the list done that? I ask because I'm going to be replacing my centerboard pennant at the end of the season. I plan to use a messenger line to accomplish this and plan to leave the existing hoses in place but in case that goes poorly, it would be good to have a backup plan. Jesse Shumaker S/V Zephyr On Thu, Aug 13, 2020 at 8:21 AM Mark Whipple wrote: > Just in case you wanted to know the rest of the story: > > Yesterday I finally got around to completing the replacement of drain on > the bridge deck that the centerboard pennant runs through. I have a 2000 > Rhodes 22. > > It took a little bit of experimentation but I found a 1 1/4" ID hose fits > the upper part of the drain and a 3/4" hose fits on the bottom. I got a 1 > 1/4" to 3/4" adapter to join the two. Add some hose clamps, remember to > thread the CB pennant through it all before installing, and then it's just > getting the lengths right so it can all go together but still be long > enough to be clamped. Attached is a couple pics of the finished product > along with the monstrosity I removed. What you don't see in the "before" > shot is the completely rusted hose clamps that I had to use a Dremel to > remove. The slit in the old hose is also from the removal process. > > Mark > -- > Boston, MA > > 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* > 1987 Nimble 30 *For Sale* > 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* > > On Mon, Jun 15, 2020 at 8:10 PM Mark Whipple > wrote: > > > Hi All, > > > > If this is in the archives somewhere let me know. I've done a little > > searching on Nabble and didn't find what I needed. I need to replace the > > hose that connects the drain the CB/diamondboard pennant runs through. > > > > It looks like the OD of the lower section (closer to the CB) is 7/8" OD. > > The top section where the pennant exits is about 1" ID, so I'm guessing > > it's about 1 1/4" OD. Total possible length looks to be about 10". The > > difference in diameters partially explains the abomination that I > removed. > > Someone tried to mate two different hoses with clamps and lots of > silicone. > > > > What has worked well for you in replacing this drain hose? I am wondering > > if I can get a hose that will fit the upper part of the drain, and then > use > > a modified section of that same hose to bring the bottom fitting closer > to > > 1 1/4". Then I'd put the larger hose over the smaller one, clamping the > > smaller section low and then the larger, overlapping hose as well. > > > > Thanks > > Mark Whipple > > Boston, MA > > > > 2000 R22 Luna Mia > > 1987 Nimble 30 (for sale) > > 1982 ComPac 16 (for sale) > > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: 20200812_182047.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 109027 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200813/110893e8/attachment.jpg > > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: 20200812_182100.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 267020 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200813/110893e8/attachment-0001.jpg > > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: 20200813_082227.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 285444 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200813/110893e8/attachment-0002.jpg > > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: 20200813_082201.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 288970 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200813/110893e8/attachment-0003.jpg > > > From mark at whipplefamily.com Thu Aug 13 10:02:18 2020 From: mark at whipplefamily.com (Mark Whipple) Date: Thu, 13 Aug 2020 10:02:18 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] CB Pennant drain In-Reply-To: <001701d67175$e0b6d880$a2248980$@ca> References: <001701d67175$e0b6d880$a2248980$@ca> Message-ID: Hi Graham, I didn't need to install through-hulls. There were fiberglass tubes attached to the boat at the top (1 1/4") and bottom (3/4") of the drain. The reinforced plastic hoses are clamped to those tubes. It would be nice to replace the top fiberglass tube with a through-hull, but the top part is part of a curved drain channel (on top of the bridge deck) and the bottom of it has very limited access. The bottom tube attaches (I believe) to the CB housing and I'm in no hurry to tackle that project. Mark On Thu, Aug 13, 2020 at 9:30 AM Graham Stewart wrote: > Mark: > > Neat install. What did you use for a thru hull? > > Graham Stewart > Agile, Rodes 22, 1976 > Kingston Ontario > > -----Original Message----- > From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf > Of Mark Whipple > Sent: Thursday, August 13, 2020 9:22 AM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] CB Pennant drain > > Just in case you wanted to know the rest of the story: > > Yesterday I finally got around to completing the replacement of drain on > the bridge deck that the centerboard pennant runs through. I have a 2000 > Rhodes 22. > > It took a little bit of experimentation but I found a 1 1/4" ID hose fits > the upper part of the drain and a 3/4" hose fits on the bottom. I got a 1 > 1/4" to 3/4" adapter to join the two. Add some hose clamps, remember to > thread the CB pennant through it all before installing, and then it's just > getting the lengths right so it can all go together but still be long > enough to be clamped. Attached is a couple pics of the finished product > along with the monstrosity I removed. What you don't see in the "before" > shot is the completely rusted hose clamps that I had to use a Dremel to > remove. The slit in the old hose is also from the removal process. > > Mark > -- > Boston, MA > > 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* > 1987 Nimble 30 *For Sale* > 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* > > On Mon, Jun 15, 2020 at 8:10 PM Mark Whipple > wrote: > > > Hi All, > > > > If this is in the archives somewhere let me know. I've done a little > > searching on Nabble and didn't find what I needed. I need to replace the > > hose that connects the drain the CB/diamondboard pennant runs through. > > > > It looks like the OD of the lower section (closer to the CB) is 7/8" OD. > > The top section where the pennant exits is about 1" ID, so I'm guessing > > it's about 1 1/4" OD. Total possible length looks to be about 10". The > > difference in diameters partially explains the abomination that I > removed. > > Someone tried to mate two different hoses with clamps and lots of > silicone. > > > > What has worked well for you in replacing this drain hose? I am wondering > > if I can get a hose that will fit the upper part of the drain, and then > use > > a modified section of that same hose to bring the bottom fitting closer > to > > 1 1/4". Then I'd put the larger hose over the smaller one, clamping the > > smaller section low and then the larger, overlapping hose as well. > > > > Thanks > > Mark Whipple > > Boston, MA > > > > 2000 R22 Luna Mia > > 1987 Nimble 30 (for sale) > > 1982 ComPac 16 (for sale) > > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: 20200812_182047.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 109027 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200813/110893e8/attachment.jpg > > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: 20200812_182100.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 267020 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200813/110893e8/attachment-0001.jpg > > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: 20200813_082227.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 285444 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200813/110893e8/attachment-0002.jpg > > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: 20200813_082201.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 288970 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200813/110893e8/attachment-0003.jpg > > > > From mark at whipplefamily.com Thu Aug 13 10:06:09 2020 From: mark at whipplefamily.com (Mark Whipple) Date: Thu, 13 Aug 2020 10:06:09 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] CB Pennant drain In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Jesse, On my boat the drain was behind a teak or oak covering which was attached to the boat with screws and small angle brackets. I'll try to remember to take pictures when I reassemble things. It was pretty easy for me to remove. Sounds like your boat may be a little different. Mark On Thu, Aug 13, 2020 at 9:31 AM Jesse Shumaker < jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com> wrote: > Mark, thanks for sharing. > > On my 1991 R22, it appears that the CB pennant hoses are aft of the cabin > and forward of the cockpit so they are hidden from view. If I had to > access that, I assume that I would need to cut out a panel of the > fiberglass at the aft of the cabin. Has anyone on the list done that? I > ask because I'm going to be replacing my centerboard pennant at the end of > the season. I plan to use a messenger line to accomplish this and plan to > leave the existing hoses in place but in case that goes poorly, it would be > good to have a backup plan. > > Jesse Shumaker > S/V Zephyr > > On Thu, Aug 13, 2020 at 8:21 AM Mark Whipple > wrote: > > > Just in case you wanted to know the rest of the story: > > > > Yesterday I finally got around to completing the replacement of drain on > > the bridge deck that the centerboard pennant runs through. I have a 2000 > > Rhodes 22. > > > > It took a little bit of experimentation but I found a 1 1/4" ID hose fits > > the upper part of the drain and a 3/4" hose fits on the bottom. I got a 1 > > 1/4" to 3/4" adapter to join the two. Add some hose clamps, remember to > > thread the CB pennant through it all before installing, and then it's > just > > getting the lengths right so it can all go together but still be long > > enough to be clamped. Attached is a couple pics of the finished product > > along with the monstrosity I removed. What you don't see in the "before" > > shot is the completely rusted hose clamps that I had to use a Dremel to > > remove. The slit in the old hose is also from the removal process. > > > > Mark > > -- > > Boston, MA > > > > 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* > > 1987 Nimble 30 *For Sale* > > 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* > > > > On Mon, Jun 15, 2020 at 8:10 PM Mark Whipple > > wrote: > > > > > Hi All, > > > > > > If this is in the archives somewhere let me know. I've done a little > > > searching on Nabble and didn't find what I needed. I need to replace > the > > > hose that connects the drain the CB/diamondboard pennant runs through. > > > > > > It looks like the OD of the lower section (closer to the CB) is 7/8" > OD. > > > The top section where the pennant exits is about 1" ID, so I'm guessing > > > it's about 1 1/4" OD. Total possible length looks to be about 10". The > > > difference in diameters partially explains the abomination that I > > removed. > > > Someone tried to mate two different hoses with clamps and lots of > > silicone. > > > > > > What has worked well for you in replacing this drain hose? I am > wondering > > > if I can get a hose that will fit the upper part of the drain, and then > > use > > > a modified section of that same hose to bring the bottom fitting closer > > to > > > 1 1/4". Then I'd put the larger hose over the smaller one, clamping the > > > smaller section low and then the larger, overlapping hose as well. > > > > > > Thanks > > > Mark Whipple > > > Boston, MA > > > > > > 2000 R22 Luna Mia > > > 1987 Nimble 30 (for sale) > > > 1982 ComPac 16 (for sale) > > > > > > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > Name: 20200812_182047.jpg > > Type: image/jpeg > > Size: 109027 bytes > > Desc: not available > > URL: < > > > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200813/110893e8/attachment.jpg > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > Name: 20200812_182100.jpg > > Type: image/jpeg > > Size: 267020 bytes > > Desc: not available > > URL: < > > > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200813/110893e8/attachment-0001.jpg > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > Name: 20200813_082227.jpg > > Type: image/jpeg > > Size: 285444 bytes > > Desc: not available > > URL: < > > > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200813/110893e8/attachment-0002.jpg > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > Name: 20200813_082201.jpg > > Type: image/jpeg > > Size: 288970 bytes > > Desc: not available > > URL: < > > > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200813/110893e8/attachment-0003.jpg > > > > > > From gstewart8 at cogeco.ca Thu Aug 13 10:58:34 2020 From: gstewart8 at cogeco.ca (Graham Stewart) Date: Thu, 13 Aug 2020 10:58:34 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] CB Pennant drain In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <002401d67182$39e0a880$ada1f980$@ca> Jesse: Once again it appears that every boat is a bit different but that said, I have done what you seem to be suggesting in order to get to the hose clamp. on I drilled a hole about 1.5" in the front panel and another under the lip. I then covered the holes with large plastic plugs. Even so it was a struggle to undo the tube from the thru hull. If I were to do it again I would cut a much larger hole, perhaps 6", to allow for easier access. I would then use a inspection plate (https://www.marineoutfitters.ca/index.cfm?category=10681|10682&product=56378931&code=900000001318) to cover the hole. The hole is also very handy if you need to fish wires and cables. I can send a picture if that would help. Graham Stewart Agile, Rodes 22, 1976 Kingston Ontario -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Jesse Shumaker Sent: Thursday, August 13, 2020 9:32 AM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] CB Pennant drain Mark, thanks for sharing. On my 1991 R22, it appears that the CB pennant hoses are aft of the cabin and forward of the cockpit so they are hidden from view. If I had to access that, I assume that I would need to cut out a panel of the fiberglass at the aft of the cabin. Has anyone on the list done that? I ask because I'm going to be replacing my centerboard pennant at the end of the season. I plan to use a messenger line to accomplish this and plan to leave the existing hoses in place but in case that goes poorly, it would be good to have a backup plan. Jesse Shumaker S/V Zephyr On Thu, Aug 13, 2020 at 8:21 AM Mark Whipple wrote: > Just in case you wanted to know the rest of the story: > > Yesterday I finally got around to completing the replacement of drain on > the bridge deck that the centerboard pennant runs through. I have a 2000 > Rhodes 22. > > It took a little bit of experimentation but I found a 1 1/4" ID hose fits > the upper part of the drain and a 3/4" hose fits on the bottom. I got a 1 > 1/4" to 3/4" adapter to join the two. Add some hose clamps, remember to > thread the CB pennant through it all before installing, and then it's just > getting the lengths right so it can all go together but still be long > enough to be clamped. Attached is a couple pics of the finished product > along with the monstrosity I removed. What you don't see in the "before" > shot is the completely rusted hose clamps that I had to use a Dremel to > remove. The slit in the old hose is also from the removal process. > > Mark > -- > Boston, MA > > 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* > 1987 Nimble 30 *For Sale* > 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* > > On Mon, Jun 15, 2020 at 8:10 PM Mark Whipple > wrote: > > > Hi All, > > > > If this is in the archives somewhere let me know. I've done a little > > searching on Nabble and didn't find what I needed. I need to replace the > > hose that connects the drain the CB/diamondboard pennant runs through. > > > > It looks like the OD of the lower section (closer to the CB) is 7/8" OD. > > The top section where the pennant exits is about 1" ID, so I'm guessing > > it's about 1 1/4" OD. Total possible length looks to be about 10". The > > difference in diameters partially explains the abomination that I > removed. > > Someone tried to mate two different hoses with clamps and lots of > silicone. > > > > What has worked well for you in replacing this drain hose? I am wondering > > if I can get a hose that will fit the upper part of the drain, and then > use > > a modified section of that same hose to bring the bottom fitting closer > to > > 1 1/4". Then I'd put the larger hose over the smaller one, clamping the > > smaller section low and then the larger, overlapping hose as well. > > > > Thanks > > Mark Whipple > > Boston, MA > > > > 2000 R22 Luna Mia > > 1987 Nimble 30 (for sale) > > 1982 ComPac 16 (for sale) > > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: 20200812_182047.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 109027 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200813/110893e8/attachment.jpg > > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: 20200812_182100.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 267020 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200813/110893e8/attachment-0001.jpg > > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: 20200813_082227.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 285444 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200813/110893e8/attachment-0002.jpg > > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: 20200813_082201.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 288970 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200813/110893e8/attachment-0003.jpg > > > From jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com Thu Aug 13 11:02:59 2020 From: jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com (Jesse Shumaker) Date: Thu, 13 Aug 2020 10:02:59 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] CB Pennant drain In-Reply-To: <002401d67182$39e0a880$ada1f980$@ca> References: <002401d67182$39e0a880$ada1f980$@ca> Message-ID: Graham, once again you have already gone where I might have to go :) I like your idea to install an inspection port for access. That would be great if you could share a photo of your solution. Thanks! Jesse Shumaker S/V Zephyr On Thu, Aug 13, 2020 at 9:58 AM Graham Stewart wrote: > Jesse: > Once again it appears that every boat is a bit different but that said, I > have done what you seem to be suggesting in order to get to the hose clamp. > on I drilled a hole about 1.5" in the front panel and another under the > lip. I then covered the holes with large plastic plugs. Even so it was a > struggle to undo the tube from the thru hull. > > If I were to do it again I would cut a much larger hole, perhaps 6", to > allow for easier access. I would then use a inspection plate ( > https://www.marineoutfitters.ca/index.cfm?category=10681|10682&product=56378931&code=900000001318) > to cover the hole. The hole is also very handy if you need to fish wires > and cables. > > I can send a picture if that would help. > > Graham Stewart > Agile, Rodes 22, 1976 > Kingston Ontario > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf > Of Jesse Shumaker > Sent: Thursday, August 13, 2020 9:32 AM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] CB Pennant drain > > Mark, thanks for sharing. > > On my 1991 R22, it appears that the CB pennant hoses are aft of the cabin > and forward of the cockpit so they are hidden from view. If I had to > access that, I assume that I would need to cut out a panel of the > fiberglass at the aft of the cabin. Has anyone on the list done that? I > ask because I'm going to be replacing my centerboard pennant at the end of > the season. I plan to use a messenger line to accomplish this and plan to > leave the existing hoses in place but in case that goes poorly, it would be > good to have a backup plan. > > Jesse Shumaker > S/V Zephyr > > On Thu, Aug 13, 2020 at 8:21 AM Mark Whipple > wrote: > > > Just in case you wanted to know the rest of the story: > > > > Yesterday I finally got around to completing the replacement of drain on > > the bridge deck that the centerboard pennant runs through. I have a 2000 > > Rhodes 22. > > > > It took a little bit of experimentation but I found a 1 1/4" ID hose fits > > the upper part of the drain and a 3/4" hose fits on the bottom. I got a 1 > > 1/4" to 3/4" adapter to join the two. Add some hose clamps, remember to > > thread the CB pennant through it all before installing, and then it's > just > > getting the lengths right so it can all go together but still be long > > enough to be clamped. Attached is a couple pics of the finished product > > along with the monstrosity I removed. What you don't see in the "before" > > shot is the completely rusted hose clamps that I had to use a Dremel to > > remove. The slit in the old hose is also from the removal process. > > > > Mark > > -- > > Boston, MA > > > > 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* > > 1987 Nimble 30 *For Sale* > > 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* > > > > On Mon, Jun 15, 2020 at 8:10 PM Mark Whipple > > wrote: > > > > > Hi All, > > > > > > If this is in the archives somewhere let me know. I've done a little > > > searching on Nabble and didn't find what I needed. I need to replace > the > > > hose that connects the drain the CB/diamondboard pennant runs through. > > > > > > It looks like the OD of the lower section (closer to the CB) is 7/8" > OD. > > > The top section where the pennant exits is about 1" ID, so I'm guessing > > > it's about 1 1/4" OD. Total possible length looks to be about 10". The > > > difference in diameters partially explains the abomination that I > > removed. > > > Someone tried to mate two different hoses with clamps and lots of > > silicone. > > > > > > What has worked well for you in replacing this drain hose? I am > wondering > > > if I can get a hose that will fit the upper part of the drain, and then > > use > > > a modified section of that same hose to bring the bottom fitting closer > > to > > > 1 1/4". Then I'd put the larger hose over the smaller one, clamping the > > > smaller section low and then the larger, overlapping hose as well. > > > > > > Thanks > > > Mark Whipple > > > Boston, MA > > > > > > 2000 R22 Luna Mia > > > 1987 Nimble 30 (for sale) > > > 1982 ComPac 16 (for sale) > > > > > > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > Name: 20200812_182047.jpg > > Type: image/jpeg > > Size: 109027 bytes > > Desc: not available > > URL: < > > > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200813/110893e8/attachment.jpg > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > Name: 20200812_182100.jpg > > Type: image/jpeg > > Size: 267020 bytes > > Desc: not available > > URL: < > > > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200813/110893e8/attachment-0001.jpg > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > Name: 20200813_082227.jpg > > Type: image/jpeg > > Size: 285444 bytes > > Desc: not available > > URL: < > > > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200813/110893e8/attachment-0002.jpg > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > Name: 20200813_082201.jpg > > Type: image/jpeg > > Size: 288970 bytes > > Desc: not available > > URL: < > > > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200813/110893e8/attachment-0003.jpg > > > > > > > From mike at traildesign.com Thu Aug 13 16:01:08 2020 From: mike at traildesign.com (Mike Riter) Date: Thu, 13 Aug 2020 16:01:08 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Lark on the lake Message-ID: I finally put my small boat projects on hold and took the Emma B out for a sail on lake Hartwell here in GA today. The day started well with a light breeze. I got everything rigged and splashed the boat, I got an early start as temps this time of year push into the mid 90's daily. I always check the time and see how long it takes from the time I arrive at the ramp to the time I motor off the trailer. I have the whole process down to under an hour now, less (sometimes) if I have the co-captain with me. The breeze (definitely can't call it "wind") was around 4 knots out of the North. My plan was to tack up the lake for a few hours then enjoy a nice downwind sail back. This worked out pretty well on the way upwind. Cruising along at a blistering 3 knot average gave me plenty of time to play with the systems on the boat. I now know my Garmin chart plotter so much better now! I spent more time trying to find that somewhat mythical balance to the sails where the boat will steer itself without input on the tiller. I'm still not convinced it's real, but I did find at one point that winding in the genoa to 130% instead of 170% and sitting on the lower side while close hauled I had a magical 30 minutes where I didn't lay a hand on the tiller. After that I tried moving around the boat to see what effect that had on things (yup, I was pretty bored) and found I could make small directional changes by creeping port-starboard and fore-aft. It was actually pretty fun. I finally made it to my waypoint, a green channel marker buoy a couple miles up the lake . My goal was to sail around it like you would in a regatta. Three tries and at least 6 tacks later I was successful at rounding said buoy and decided it was time to turn back and enjoy some of the downwind points of sail. I rounded into the final tack and, and wait, where did the wind go? Noooooo!!!! It quit just like someone shut off a fan and left me sitting there on the glassy water, sails sagging against the stays. "it'll come back" I told myself. "Any minute now"...... Sigh, 15 minutes later I gave up, furled everything and went for a swim to cool off. After I got back on board I dropped the motor and tooled around some of the islands in the lake. One thing I've never done is try to go to shore (sans dinghy or dock). I picked one of the islands after doing a drive by to check for rocks. My first attempt went well, being the brave guy I am, I charged the beach at full idle and shifted into neutral 20' out and slowly drifted in until I touched. Well, actually I stopped drifting a full 5 feet out. a wake from a jet ski pushed me the rest of the way in. Since the only way onto the beach entailed a leap from the bow, I decided to check how deep it was off the swim ladder in the stern. Hmm, over my head. Now I get why everyone backs in. Went back out, turned around, pulled up the tiller, released the tiller-motor connection and idled back to shore and waded up in less than knee deep. Sweet! Finished up the day on the motor. All in all a great relaxing day on the boat. Attached are a couple photos from the day. Mike Riter SV Emma B -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Lake Hartwell 1.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 113580 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Lake Hartwell 2.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 158120 bytes Desc: not available URL: From sea20 at verizon.net Thu Aug 13 16:44:28 2020 From: sea20 at verizon.net (Scott Andrews) Date: Thu, 13 Aug 2020 16:44:28 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Wish me luck In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <39DC2B12-21B7-4160-A1C3-5BB4952F179D@verizon.net> Sounds like a great adventure for all. Sent from my iPhone > On Aug 13, 2020, at 8:50 AM, Hank wrote: > > ?Have a great trip, Roger! Looking forward to the tales of how it went when > you get back. > > Hank > >> On Thu, Aug 13, 2020 at 7:59 AM ROGER PIHLAJA wrote: >> >> Hi All, >> >> Well, later today I?m leaving with my Boy Scout Troop on our Shipwreck >> SCUBA Diving High Adventure Trip! We will be camping in Straits State Park >> in St. Ignace, MI. Our dive charter boat will pick up/drop off from the >> St. Ignace Harbor of Refuge, which is about a 10 minute drive from our >> campsite. Weather permitting, we will make 2 dives per day each on Friday >> and Saturday, for a total of 4 dives. The weather forecast in the Straits >> of Mackinac looks pretty good with sunny skies and temperatures in the low >> 80?s deg F for both dive days. However, the wind is forecast to be 15-20 >> mph from the E and SE. This sort of wind can make the Straits of Mackinac >> very rough. This narrow strait at the northern end of Lakes Michigan and >> Huron tends to develop ?pyramid-shaped? waves as the wave patterns from the >> two lakes constructively and destructively interfere with each other. Even >> worse, it can cause strong underwater currents thru the Straits to form, >> which we don?t want to have to deal with. The underwater currents may >> force us to adjust which shipwrecks we visit for safety reasons. The only >> positive factor here is that the wind has been blowing like that for >> several days. So, the lakes may already be equalized in their wind driven >> levels and the underwater current may be OK. We will be relying on the >> local knowledge of our divemaster and dive charter boat operator to access >> this safety concern. Yes, this is serious blue water diving and it?s not >> idiot proof! This is also one reason why there are so many shipwrecks here. >> >> Anyway, one way or another, I?ll be back Sunday afternoon. Wish me luck! >> >> Roger Pihlaja >> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium >> >> >> >> Sent from Mail for >> Windows 10 >> >> From rodellner at mac.com Thu Aug 13 18:12:47 2020 From: rodellner at mac.com (Rod Ellner) Date: Thu, 13 Aug 2020 17:12:47 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Wish me luck In-Reply-To: <39DC2B12-21B7-4160-A1C3-5BB4952F179D@verizon.net> References: <39DC2B12-21B7-4160-A1C3-5BB4952F179D@verizon.net> Message-ID: <1E92744E-20A7-4155-8247-DC6B40EF9BA3@mac.com> Have an AWESOME trip Roger! You will RESPECT THE LAKE!!(as you said. That?s why so many shipwrecks?) ENJOY the Scouts are lucky to have you Rod and Mary Sent from my iPhone > On Aug 13, 2020, at 3:44 PM, Scott Andrews via Rhodes22-list wrote: > > ?Sounds like a great adventure for all. > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Aug 13, 2020, at 8:50 AM, Hank wrote: >> >> ?Have a great trip, Roger! Looking forward to the tales of how it went when >> you get back. >> >> Hank >> >>>> On Thu, Aug 13, 2020 at 7:59 AM ROGER PIHLAJA wrote: >>> >>> Hi All, >>> >>> Well, later today I?m leaving with my Boy Scout Troop on our Shipwreck >>> SCUBA Diving High Adventure Trip! We will be camping in Straits State Park >>> in St. Ignace, MI. Our dive charter boat will pick up/drop off from the >>> St. Ignace Harbor of Refuge, which is about a 10 minute drive from our >>> campsite. Weather permitting, we will make 2 dives per day each on Friday >>> and Saturday, for a total of 4 dives. The weather forecast in the Straits >>> of Mackinac looks pretty good with sunny skies and temperatures in the low >>> 80?s deg F for both dive days. However, the wind is forecast to be 15-20 >>> mph from the E and SE. This sort of wind can make the Straits of Mackinac >>> very rough. This narrow strait at the northern end of Lakes Michigan and >>> Huron tends to develop ?pyramid-shaped? waves as the wave patterns from the >>> two lakes constructively and destructively interfere with each other. Even >>> worse, it can cause strong underwater currents thru the Straits to form, >>> which we don?t want to have to deal with. The underwater currents may >>> force us to adjust which shipwrecks we visit for safety reasons. The only >>> positive factor here is that the wind has been blowing like that for >>> several days. So, the lakes may already be equalized in their wind driven >>> levels and the underwater current may be OK. We will be relying on the >>> local knowledge of our divemaster and dive charter boat operator to access >>> this safety concern. Yes, this is serious blue water diving and it?s not >>> idiot proof! This is also one reason why there are so many shipwrecks here. >>> >>> Anyway, one way or another, I?ll be back Sunday afternoon. Wish me luck! >>> >>> Roger Pihlaja >>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium >>> >>> >>> >>> Sent from Mail for >>> Windows 10 >>> >>> > From chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com Thu Aug 13 19:58:56 2020 From: chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com (Chris Geankoplis) Date: Thu, 13 Aug 2020 18:58:56 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Wish me luck In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Sounds like a great adventure that you are making happen. The kids will remember this experience for a long time. Chris G Enosis On Thu, Aug 13, 2020 at 6:59 AM ROGER PIHLAJA wrote: > Hi All, > > Well, later today I?m leaving with my Boy Scout Troop on our Shipwreck > SCUBA Diving High Adventure Trip! We will be camping in Straits State Park > in St. Ignace, MI. Our dive charter boat will pick up/drop off from the > St. Ignace Harbor of Refuge, which is about a 10 minute drive from our > campsite. Weather permitting, we will make 2 dives per day each on Friday > and Saturday, for a total of 4 dives. The weather forecast in the Straits > of Mackinac looks pretty good with sunny skies and temperatures in the low > 80?s deg F for both dive days. However, the wind is forecast to be 15-20 > mph from the E and SE. This sort of wind can make the Straits of Mackinac > very rough. This narrow strait at the northern end of Lakes Michigan and > Huron tends to develop ?pyramid-shaped? waves as the wave patterns from the > two lakes constructively and destructively interfere with each other. Even > worse, it can cause strong underwater currents thru the Straits to form, > which we don?t want to have to deal with. The underwater currents may > force us to adjust which shipwrecks we visit for safety reasons. The only > positive factor here is that the wind has been blowing like that for > several days. So, the lakes may already be equalized in their wind driven > levels and the underwater current may be OK. We will be relying on the > local knowledge of our divemaster and dive charter boat operator to access > this safety concern. Yes, this is serious blue water diving and it?s not > idiot proof! This is also one reason why there are so many shipwrecks here. > > Anyway, one way or another, I?ll be back Sunday afternoon. Wish me luck! > > Roger Pihlaja > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium > > > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > > From roger_pihlaja at msn.com Thu Aug 13 20:55:08 2020 From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA) Date: Fri, 14 Aug 2020 00:55:08 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Wish me luck In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi All, Well, our camp is all set up and we just finished dinner. Straits State Park has a ?Dark Park? section. The sky is partly cloudy right now, but it?s clearing to the west. Hopefully, by dark, the sky to the NE will be clear enough to watch the tail end of the Perseid meteor shower. Tomorrow?s 1st dive doesn?t start until 3:00 PM. So, in the morning, we plan to visit Historic Mill Creek, about 11 miles away. This mill is an accurate reproduction of a water powered saw mill dating from just prIor to the American Revolutionary War. The British made dimension lumber in the mill all spring, summer, and fall. Then, all winter, they hauled it on sleds across the frozen Straits of Mackinac to Mackinac Island. This lumber was used to build Fort Mackinac out on the island. Fort Mackinac is built on top of a 600 foot limestone bluff and is far more defensible against an enemy with a navy and cannons vs Fort Michilamackinaw built at lake level with only a wooden palisade. By the time of the American Revolution, there had been Europeans living in the Straits area for 40-50 years. Between the trees used for log cabins, the wooden palisade at Fort Michilamackinaw on the lower peninsula mainland (now Mackinaw City), and firewood, there was actually a local shortage of wood. The British were forced to use dimension lumber vs logs in order to make more efficient use of the remaining trees. In the summer, the park service will have costumed reenactors running the saw mill. Roger Pihlaja S/V Dynamic Equilibrium Sent from my iPhone > On Aug 13, 2020, at 7:59 PM, Chris Geankoplis wrote: > > ?Sounds like a great adventure that you are making happen. The kids will > remember this experience for a long time. > Chris G > Enosis > >> On Thu, Aug 13, 2020 at 6:59 AM ROGER PIHLAJA wrote: >> >> Hi All, >> >> Well, later today I?m leaving with my Boy Scout Troop on our Shipwreck >> SCUBA Diving High Adventure Trip! We will be camping in Straits State Park >> in St. Ignace, MI. Our dive charter boat will pick up/drop off from the >> St. Ignace Harbor of Refuge, which is about a 10 minute drive from our >> campsite. Weather permitting, we will make 2 dives per day each on Friday >> and Saturday, for a total of 4 dives. The weather forecast in the Straits >> of Mackinac looks pretty good with sunny skies and temperatures in the low >> 80?s deg F for both dive days. However, the wind is forecast to be 15-20 >> mph from the E and SE. This sort of wind can make the Straits of Mackinac >> very rough. This narrow strait at the northern end of Lakes Michigan and >> Huron tends to develop ?pyramid-shaped? waves as the wave patterns from the >> two lakes constructively and destructively interfere with each other. Even >> worse, it can cause strong underwater currents thru the Straits to form, >> which we don?t want to have to deal with. The underwater currents may >> force us to adjust which shipwrecks we visit for safety reasons. The only >> positive factor here is that the wind has been blowing like that for >> several days. So, the lakes may already be equalized in their wind driven >> levels and the underwater current may be OK. We will be relying on the >> local knowledge of our divemaster and dive charter boat operator to access >> this safety concern. Yes, this is serious blue water diving and it?s not >> idiot proof! This is also one reason why there are so many shipwrecks here. >> >> Anyway, one way or another, I?ll be back Sunday afternoon. Wish me luck! >> >> Roger Pihlaja >> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium >> >> >> >> Sent from Mail for >> Windows 10 >> >> From gstewart8 at cogeco.ca Thu Aug 13 22:12:24 2020 From: gstewart8 at cogeco.ca (Graham Stewart) Date: Thu, 13 Aug 2020 22:12:24 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] CB Pennant drain In-Reply-To: References: <002401d67182$39e0a880$ada1f980$@ca> Message-ID: <004301d671e0$5c6bf400$1543dc00$@ca> Jesse: When you strip the boat to the hull and even remove half of the deck to replace the core then there isn't much that one hasn't done. At the same time I can't think of anything that I have done that I wouldn't do differently if I were to do it again. Such are the limits of "experience". I have attached a picture of the back of the companion way where I used various methods to gain access. The small hole with the plastic cap is very neat and small but I had a devil of a time getting the hose to release from the thru hull. The small hole only works if the screw for the hose clamp is facing the hole and I still needed to create an opening from below that was big enough to get my hand up inside. Someone in the past thought it was a good idea to seal the hose to the barb end of the thru-hull with 5200 so in the end I had to cut the barb end off with a dremmel and replace the entire thru-hull. The other much larger 5" opening was put in to give me access to a wiring terminal box. I cut the hole with an adjustable hole saw and covered it with an inspection cover. Note that an "inspection cover" and a "deck plate" look identical in pictures but inspection ports are light duty and about half the price of a deck plate - which would be overkill in this situation. I cut the hole lower than I should have with the result that the flange overhangs the edge. If I had wanted to use this approach with the hose I would not have had room for a hole larger than 4". Graham Graham Stewart Agile, Rodes 22, 1976 Kingston Ontario -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Jesse Shumaker Sent: Thursday, August 13, 2020 11:03 AM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] CB Pennant drain Graham, once again you have already gone where I might have to go :) I like your idea to install an inspection port for access. That would be great if you could share a photo of your solution. Thanks! Jesse Shumaker S/V Zephyr On Thu, Aug 13, 2020 at 9:58 AM Graham Stewart wrote: > Jesse: > Once again it appears that every boat is a bit different but that said, I > have done what you seem to be suggesting in order to get to the hose clamp. > on I drilled a hole about 1.5" in the front panel and another under the > lip. I then covered the holes with large plastic plugs. Even so it was a > struggle to undo the tube from the thru hull. > > If I were to do it again I would cut a much larger hole, perhaps 6", to > allow for easier access. I would then use a inspection plate ( > https://www.marineoutfitters.ca/index.cfm?category=10681|10682&product=56378931&code=900000001318) > to cover the hole. The hole is also very handy if you need to fish wires > and cables. > > I can send a picture if that would help. > > Graham Stewart > Agile, Rodes 22, 1976 > Kingston Ontario > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf > Of Jesse Shumaker > Sent: Thursday, August 13, 2020 9:32 AM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] CB Pennant drain > > Mark, thanks for sharing. > > On my 1991 R22, it appears that the CB pennant hoses are aft of the cabin > and forward of the cockpit so they are hidden from view. If I had to > access that, I assume that I would need to cut out a panel of the > fiberglass at the aft of the cabin. Has anyone on the list done that? I > ask because I'm going to be replacing my centerboard pennant at the end of > the season. I plan to use a messenger line to accomplish this and plan to > leave the existing hoses in place but in case that goes poorly, it would be > good to have a backup plan. > > Jesse Shumaker > S/V Zephyr > > On Thu, Aug 13, 2020 at 8:21 AM Mark Whipple > wrote: > > > Just in case you wanted to know the rest of the story: > > > > Yesterday I finally got around to completing the replacement of drain on > > the bridge deck that the centerboard pennant runs through. I have a 2000 > > Rhodes 22. > > > > It took a little bit of experimentation but I found a 1 1/4" ID hose fits > > the upper part of the drain and a 3/4" hose fits on the bottom. I got a 1 > > 1/4" to 3/4" adapter to join the two. Add some hose clamps, remember to > > thread the CB pennant through it all before installing, and then it's > just > > getting the lengths right so it can all go together but still be long > > enough to be clamped. Attached is a couple pics of the finished product > > along with the monstrosity I removed. What you don't see in the "before" > > shot is the completely rusted hose clamps that I had to use a Dremel to > > remove. The slit in the old hose is also from the removal process. > > > > Mark > > -- > > Boston, MA > > > > 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* > > 1987 Nimble 30 *For Sale* > > 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* > > > > On Mon, Jun 15, 2020 at 8:10 PM Mark Whipple > > wrote: > > > > > Hi All, > > > > > > If this is in the archives somewhere let me know. I've done a little > > > searching on Nabble and didn't find what I needed. I need to replace > the > > > hose that connects the drain the CB/diamondboard pennant runs through. > > > > > > It looks like the OD of the lower section (closer to the CB) is 7/8" > OD. > > > The top section where the pennant exits is about 1" ID, so I'm guessing > > > it's about 1 1/4" OD. Total possible length looks to be about 10". The > > > difference in diameters partially explains the abomination that I > > removed. > > > Someone tried to mate two different hoses with clamps and lots of > > silicone. > > > > > > What has worked well for you in replacing this drain hose? I am > wondering > > > if I can get a hose that will fit the upper part of the drain, and then > > use > > > a modified section of that same hose to bring the bottom fitting closer > > to > > > 1 1/4". Then I'd put the larger hose over the smaller one, clamping the > > > smaller section low and then the larger, overlapping hose as well. > > > > > > Thanks > > > Mark Whipple > > > Boston, MA > > > > > > 2000 R22 Luna Mia > > > 1987 Nimble 30 (for sale) > > > 1982 ComPac 16 (for sale) > > > > > > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > Name: 20200812_182047.jpg > > Type: image/jpeg > > Size: 109027 bytes > > Desc: not available > > URL: < > > > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200813/110893e8/attachment.jpg > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > Name: 20200812_182100.jpg > > Type: image/jpeg > > Size: 267020 bytes > > Desc: not available > > URL: < > > > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200813/110893e8/attachment-0001.jpg > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > Name: 20200813_082227.jpg > > Type: image/jpeg > > Size: 285444 bytes > > Desc: not available > > URL: < > > > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200813/110893e8/attachment-0002.jpg > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > Name: 20200813_082201.jpg > > Type: image/jpeg > > Size: 288970 bytes > > Desc: not available > > URL: < > > > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200813/110893e8/attachment-0003.jpg > > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Access covers.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1179844 bytes Desc: not available URL: From jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com Fri Aug 14 07:46:40 2020 From: jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com (Jesse Shumaker) Date: Fri, 14 Aug 2020 06:46:40 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] CB Pennant drain In-Reply-To: <004301d671e0$5c6bf400$1543dc00$@ca> References: <002401d67182$39e0a880$ada1f980$@ca> <004301d671e0$5c6bf400$1543dc00$@ca> Message-ID: Graham, thanks for sharing. When I replied on this thread originally, I was relying on my memory which is a notoriously unreliable source. When I stopped by the boat last night, I realized that there is a wood covering around the CB pennant hoses (see attached photo). Previously, I had wondered what the wood housing was for but now I know. This is attached somewhat loosely so I could reach around back and confirm that the hoses are back there. It appears that my '91 is of the vintage that has the pennant go straight down to the diamondboard without all the extra blocks that the older CB setup used. I might replace the hoses while I'm in the process of replacing the pennant. This might be another example of how my projects always seem to grow in scope. Thanks again to Mark for showing his work. Jesse Shumaker S/V Zephyr On Thu, Aug 13, 2020 at 9:12 PM Graham Stewart wrote: > Jesse: > > When you strip the boat to the hull and even remove half of the deck to > replace the core then there isn't much that one hasn't done. At the same > time I can't think of anything that I have done that I wouldn't do > differently if I were to do it again. Such are the limits of "experience". > > I have attached a picture of the back of the companion way where I used > various methods to gain access. The small hole with the plastic cap is very > neat and small but I had a devil of a time getting the hose to release from > the thru hull. The small hole only works if the screw for the hose clamp is > facing the hole and I still needed to create an opening from below that was > big enough to get my hand up inside. Someone in the past thought it was a > good idea to seal the hose to the barb end of the thru-hull with 5200 so in > the end I had to cut the barb end off with a dremmel and replace the entire > thru-hull. > > The other much larger 5" opening was put in to give me access to a wiring > terminal box. I cut the hole with an adjustable hole saw and covered it > with an inspection cover. Note that an "inspection cover" and a "deck > plate" look identical in pictures but inspection ports are light duty and > about half the price of a deck plate - which would be overkill in this > situation. I cut the hole lower than I should have with the result that the > flange overhangs the edge. If I had wanted to use this approach with the > hose I would not have had room for a hole larger than 4". > > Graham > > Graham Stewart > Agile, Rodes 22, 1976 > Kingston Ontario > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf > Of Jesse Shumaker > Sent: Thursday, August 13, 2020 11:03 AM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] CB Pennant drain > > Graham, once again you have already gone where I might have to go :) > > I like your idea to install an inspection port for access. That would be > great if you could share a photo of your solution. Thanks! > > Jesse Shumaker > S/V Zephyr > > On Thu, Aug 13, 2020 at 9:58 AM Graham Stewart > wrote: > > > Jesse: > > Once again it appears that every boat is a bit different but that said, I > > have done what you seem to be suggesting in order to get to the hose > clamp. > > on I drilled a hole about 1.5" in the front panel and another under the > > lip. I then covered the holes with large plastic plugs. Even so it was a > > struggle to undo the tube from the thru hull. > > > > If I were to do it again I would cut a much larger hole, perhaps 6", to > > allow for easier access. I would then use a inspection plate ( > > > https://www.marineoutfitters.ca/index.cfm?category=10681|10682&product=56378931&code=900000001318 > ) > > to cover the hole. The hole is also very handy if you need to fish wires > > and cables. > > > > I can send a picture if that would help. > > > > Graham Stewart > > Agile, Rodes 22, 1976 > > Kingston Ontario > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On > Behalf > > Of Jesse Shumaker > > Sent: Thursday, August 13, 2020 9:32 AM > > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] CB Pennant drain > > > > Mark, thanks for sharing. > > > > On my 1991 R22, it appears that the CB pennant hoses are aft of the cabin > > and forward of the cockpit so they are hidden from view. If I had to > > access that, I assume that I would need to cut out a panel of the > > fiberglass at the aft of the cabin. Has anyone on the list done that? I > > ask because I'm going to be replacing my centerboard pennant at the end > of > > the season. I plan to use a messenger line to accomplish this and plan > to > > leave the existing hoses in place but in case that goes poorly, it would > be > > good to have a backup plan. > > > > Jesse Shumaker > > S/V Zephyr > > > > On Thu, Aug 13, 2020 at 8:21 AM Mark Whipple > > wrote: > > > > > Just in case you wanted to know the rest of the story: > > > > > > Yesterday I finally got around to completing the replacement of drain > on > > > the bridge deck that the centerboard pennant runs through. I have a > 2000 > > > Rhodes 22. > > > > > > It took a little bit of experimentation but I found a 1 1/4" ID hose > fits > > > the upper part of the drain and a 3/4" hose fits on the bottom. I got > a 1 > > > 1/4" to 3/4" adapter to join the two. Add some hose clamps, remember to > > > thread the CB pennant through it all before installing, and then it's > > just > > > getting the lengths right so it can all go together but still be long > > > enough to be clamped. Attached is a couple pics of the finished product > > > along with the monstrosity I removed. What you don't see in the > "before" > > > shot is the completely rusted hose clamps that I had to use a Dremel to > > > remove. The slit in the old hose is also from the removal process. > > > > > > Mark > > > -- > > > Boston, MA > > > > > > 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* > > > 1987 Nimble 30 *For Sale* > > > 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* > > > > > > On Mon, Jun 15, 2020 at 8:10 PM Mark Whipple > > > wrote: > > > > > > > Hi All, > > > > > > > > If this is in the archives somewhere let me know. I've done a little > > > > searching on Nabble and didn't find what I needed. I need to replace > > the > > > > hose that connects the drain the CB/diamondboard pennant runs > through. > > > > > > > > It looks like the OD of the lower section (closer to the CB) is 7/8" > > OD. > > > > The top section where the pennant exits is about 1" ID, so I'm > guessing > > > > it's about 1 1/4" OD. Total possible length looks to be about 10". > The > > > > difference in diameters partially explains the abomination that I > > > removed. > > > > Someone tried to mate two different hoses with clamps and lots of > > > silicone. > > > > > > > > What has worked well for you in replacing this drain hose? I am > > wondering > > > > if I can get a hose that will fit the upper part of the drain, and > then > > > use > > > > a modified section of that same hose to bring the bottom fitting > closer > > > to > > > > 1 1/4". Then I'd put the larger hose over the smaller one, clamping > the > > > > smaller section low and then the larger, overlapping hose as well. > > > > > > > > Thanks > > > > Mark Whipple > > > > Boston, MA > > > > > > > > 2000 R22 Luna Mia > > > > 1987 Nimble 30 (for sale) > > > > 1982 ComPac 16 (for sale) > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > > Name: 20200812_182047.jpg > > > Type: image/jpeg > > > Size: 109027 bytes > > > Desc: not available > > > URL: < > > > > > > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200813/110893e8/attachment.jpg > > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > > Name: 20200812_182100.jpg > > > Type: image/jpeg > > > Size: 267020 bytes > > > Desc: not available > > > URL: < > > > > > > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200813/110893e8/attachment-0001.jpg > > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > > Name: 20200813_082227.jpg > > > Type: image/jpeg > > > Size: 285444 bytes > > > Desc: not available > > > URL: < > > > > > > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200813/110893e8/attachment-0002.jpg > > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > > Name: 20200813_082201.jpg > > > Type: image/jpeg > > > Size: 288970 bytes > > > Desc: not available > > > URL: < > > > > > > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200813/110893e8/attachment-0003.jpg > > > > > > > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: Access covers.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 1179844 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200813/90041f04/attachment.jpg > > > -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: CBpennant.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 86203 bytes Desc: not available URL: From mweisner at ebsmed.com Fri Aug 14 10:15:18 2020 From: mweisner at ebsmed.com (Michael D. Weisner) Date: Fri, 14 Aug 2020 10:15:18 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Radar? In-Reply-To: <93AE7C1A-ED55-4BD2-94AE-9EA2997A3CD2@sunnybeeches.com> References: <93AE7C1A-ED55-4BD2-94AE-9EA2997A3CD2@sunnybeeches.com> Message-ID: <00e901d67245$57ab1cb0$07015610$@ebsmed.com> Peter, Do you have a photo of the solar arch? Mike s/v Wind Lass ('91) Nissequogue River, NY -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of Peter Nyberg Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2020 2:11 PM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Radar? Mark, Well, I have that whole solar arch construct I built on the back end of the boat to support my two 100 watt solar panels. As I recall, the radome is pretty light (~15 lbs?), so the arch shouldn?t have any problem supporting that as well. Without an arch, I?d say a pole mounted to the transom would be the way to go. I see a lot of sailboats with a radome mounted that way. I think there would be room between the rudder and the swim ladder, without limiting the swing of the rudder at all. ?Peter From rlowe at vt.edu Fri Aug 14 12:45:42 2020 From: rlowe at vt.edu (Lowe, Rob) Date: Fri, 14 Aug 2020 16:45:42 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Lark on the lake In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Mike, Thanks for sharing. Always love to hear on the lake stories. And yes, the wind always fails on the return voyage. It's a given with lake sailing. - rob ________________________________ From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of Mike Riter Sent: Thursday, August 13, 2020 4:01 PM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Lark on the lake I finally put my small boat projects on hold and took the Emma B out for a sail on lake Hartwell here in GA today. The day started well with a light breeze. I got everything rigged and splashed the boat, I got an early start as temps this time of year push into the mid 90's daily. I always check the time and see how long it takes from the time I arrive at the ramp to the time I motor off the trailer. I have the whole process down to under an hour now, less (sometimes) if I have the co-captain with me. The breeze (definitely can't call it "wind") was around 4 knots out of the North. My plan was to tack up the lake for a few hours then enjoy a nice downwind sail back. This worked out pretty well on the way upwind. Cruising along at a blistering 3 knot average gave me plenty of time to play with the systems on the boat. I now know my Garmin chart plotter so much better now! I spent more time trying to find that somewhat mythical balance to the sails where the boat will steer itself without input on the tiller. I'm still not convinced it's real, but I did find at one point that winding in the genoa to 130% instead of 170% and sitting on the lower side while close hauled I had a magical 30 minutes where I didn't lay a hand on the tiller. After that I tried moving around the boat to see what effect that had on things (yup, I was pretty bored) and found I could make small directional changes by creeping port-starboard and fore-aft. It was actually pretty fun. I finally made it to my waypoint, a green channel marker buoy a couple miles up the lake . My goal was to sail around it like you would in a regatta. Three tries and at least 6 tacks later I was successful at rounding said buoy and decided it was time to turn back and enjoy some of the downwind points of sail. I rounded into the final tack and, and wait, where did the wind go? Noooooo!!!! It quit just like someone shut off a fan and left me sitting there on the glassy water, sails sagging against the stays. "it'll come back" I told myself. "Any minute now"...... Sigh, 15 minutes later I gave up, furled everything and went for a swim to cool off. After I got back on board I dropped the motor and tooled around some of the islands in the lake. One thing I've never done is try to go to shore (sans dinghy or dock). I picked one of the islands after doing a drive by to check for rocks. My first attempt went well, being the brave guy I am, I charged the beach at full idle and shifted into neutral 20' out and slowly drifted in until I touched. Well, actually I stopped drifting a full 5 feet out. a wake from a jet ski pushed me the rest of the way in. Since the only way onto the beach entailed a leap from the bow, I decided to check how deep it was off the swim ladder in the stern. Hmm, over my head. Now I get why everyone backs in. Went back out, turned around, pulled up the tiller, released the tiller-motor connection and idled back to shore and waded up in less than knee deep. Sweet! Finished up the day on the motor. All in all a great relaxing day on the boat. Attached are a couple photos from the day. Mike Riter SV Emma B -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Lake Hartwell 1.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 113580 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Lake Hartwell 2.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 158120 bytes Desc: not available URL: From mweisner at ebsmed.com Fri Aug 14 14:10:43 2020 From: mweisner at ebsmed.com (Michael D. Weisner) Date: Fri, 14 Aug 2020 14:10:43 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Sailboat hardware on sale at Defender Message-ID: <003101d67266$3a5b4920$af11db60$@ebsmed.com> If anyone needs sailboat hardware, Defender is having a 20% off sale: http://enews.defender.com/q/bgi5U5qE-bFt1j20FA8_JiZUF-sePVT-wVT0L_xx-_1oW6XQ re4EiqFYy Mike s/v Wind Lass ('91) Nissequogue River, NY I'd rather be sailing :~) From peter at sunnybeeches.com Fri Aug 14 16:29:39 2020 From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (mail.sunnybeeches.com) Date: Fri, 14 Aug 2020 16:29:39 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Radar? In-Reply-To: <963501c4-4386-453e-b3cb-5872e581bcfa@Spark> References: <93AE7C1A-ED55-4BD2-94AE-9EA2997A3CD2@sunnybeeches.com> <00e901d67245$57ab1cb0$07015610$@ebsmed.com> <963501c4-4386-453e-b3cb-5872e581bcfa@Spark> Message-ID: <7baff80a-a7a5-49cb-be55-106b01fb189e@Spark> Mike, Since my boat is at home on the trailer, it was easy to snap a few pics, which hopefully will be attached. There is also, of course, a YouTube video:?https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bMTMRPYyom8 Peter (sent from my Mac using the Spark email client) > On Aug 14, 2020, 10:16 AM -0400, Michael D. Weisner , wrote: > > Peter, > > > > Do you have a photo of the solar arch? > > > > Mike > > s/v Wind Lass ('91) > > Nissequogue River, NY > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of Peter Nyberg > > Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2020 2:11 PM > > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Radar? > > > > Mark, > > > > Well, I have that whole solar arch construct I built on the back end of the boat to support my two 100 watt solar panels. As I recall, the radome is pretty light (~15 lbs?), so the arch shouldn?t have any problem supporting that as well. > > > > Without an arch, I?d say a pole mounted to the transom would be the way to go. I see a lot of sailboats with a radome mounted that way. I think there would be room between the rudder and the swim ladder, without limiting the swing of the rudder at all. > > > > ?Peter > > > > -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: DSCN6494.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 195415 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: DSCN6495.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 170062 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: DSCN6496.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 154961 bytes Desc: not available URL: From shawn.sustain at gmail.com Fri Aug 14 16:48:10 2020 From: shawn.sustain at gmail.com (Shawn Boles) Date: Fri, 14 Aug 2020 13:48:10 -0700 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Radar? In-Reply-To: <7baff80a-a7a5-49cb-be55-106b01fb189e@Spark> References: <93AE7C1A-ED55-4BD2-94AE-9EA2997A3CD2@sunnybeeches.com> <00e901d67245$57ab1cb0$07015610$@ebsmed.com> <963501c4-4386-453e-b3cb-5872e581bcfa@Spark> <7baff80a-a7a5-49cb-be55-106b01fb189e@Spark> Message-ID: Peter : What is the sail area of that device? :) Shawn s/v Sweet Baboo On Fri, Aug 14, 2020, 1:32 PM mail.sunnybeeches.com wrote: > Mike, > > Since my boat is at home on the trailer, it was easy to snap a few pics, > which hopefully will be attached. > > There is also, of course, a YouTube video: > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bMTMRPYyom8 > > Peter > (sent from my Mac using the Spark email client) > > > On Aug 14, 2020, 10:16 AM -0400, Michael D. Weisner , > wrote: > > > Peter, > > > > > > Do you have a photo of the solar arch? > > > > > > Mike > > > s/v Wind Lass ('91) > > > Nissequogue River, NY > > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > > From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of > Peter Nyberg > > > Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2020 2:11 PM > > > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > > > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Radar? > > > > > > Mark, > > > > > > Well, I have that whole solar arch construct I built on the back end > of the boat to support my two 100 watt solar panels. As I recall, the > radome is pretty light (~15 lbs?), so the arch shouldn?t have any problem > supporting that as well. > > > > > > Without an arch, I?d say a pole mounted to the transom would be the > way to go. I see a lot of sailboats with a radome mounted that way. I think > there would be room between the rudder and the swim ladder, without > limiting the swing of the rudder at all. > > > > > > ?Peter > > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: DSCN6494.JPG > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 195415 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200814/a47ed68f/attachment.jpe > > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: DSCN6495.JPG > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 170062 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200814/a47ed68f/attachment-0001.jpe > > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: DSCN6496.JPG > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 154961 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200814/a47ed68f/attachment-0002.jpe > > > From talmorin at hotmail.com Fri Aug 14 18:03:31 2020 From: talmorin at hotmail.com (Thomas s) Date: Fri, 14 Aug 2020 22:03:31 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Radar? In-Reply-To: <7baff80a-a7a5-49cb-be55-106b01fb189e@Spark> References: <93AE7C1A-ED55-4BD2-94AE-9EA2997A3CD2@sunnybeeches.com> <00e901d67245$57ab1cb0$07015610$@ebsmed.com> <963501c4-4386-453e-b3cb-5872e581bcfa@Spark>, <7baff80a-a7a5-49cb-be55-106b01fb189e@Spark> Message-ID: Peter, After watching a bit of the video, instead of the cutout for the boom, could you not have simply made the mast crutch a few inches higher? Was there some factor driving a hard-maximum height? Tom ________________________________ From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of mail.sunnybeeches.com Sent: Friday, August 14, 2020 3:29 PM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Radar? Mike, Since my boat is at home on the trailer, it was easy to snap a few pics, which hopefully will be attached. There is also, of course, a YouTube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bMTMRPYyom8 Peter (sent from my Mac using the Spark email client) > On Aug 14, 2020, 10:16 AM -0400, Michael D. Weisner , wrote: > > Peter, > > > > Do you have a photo of the solar arch? > > > > Mike > > s/v Wind Lass ('91) > > Nissequogue River, NY > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of Peter Nyberg > > Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2020 2:11 PM > > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Radar? > > > > Mark, > > > > Well, I have that whole solar arch construct I built on the back end of the boat to support my two 100 watt solar panels. As I recall, the radome is pretty light (~15 lbs?), so the arch shouldn?t have any problem supporting that as well. > > > > Without an arch, I?d say a pole mounted to the transom would be the way to go. I see a lot of sailboats with a radome mounted that way. I think there would be room between the rudder and the swim ladder, without limiting the swing of the rudder at all. > > > > ?Peter > > > > -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: DSCN6494.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 195415 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: DSCN6495.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 170062 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: DSCN6496.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 154961 bytes Desc: not available URL: From jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com Fri Aug 14 20:49:46 2020 From: jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com (JeffSmith) Date: Fri, 14 Aug 2020 17:49:46 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Maine Sailing Anyone? In-Reply-To: <70104B9D-0819-4814-A1B0-A6437B23D778@sunnybeeches.com> References: <1596909318869-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1597056346226-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <70104B9D-0819-4814-A1B0-A6437B23D778@sunnybeeches.com> Message-ID: <1597452586742-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Hi Peter, Info on launch ramp. Please call me at 732-236-1368. ----- Jeff Smith 2009 R22 #101 RADIANT Atlantic Highlands Municpal Harbor Atlantic Highlands, NJ -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From peter at sunnybeeches.com Fri Aug 14 21:28:17 2020 From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg) Date: Fri, 14 Aug 2020 21:28:17 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Radar? In-Reply-To: References: <93AE7C1A-ED55-4BD2-94AE-9EA2997A3CD2@sunnybeeches.com> <00e901d67245$57ab1cb0$07015610$@ebsmed.com> <963501c4-4386-453e-b3cb-5872e581bcfa@Spark> <7baff80a-a7a5-49cb-be55-106b01fb189e@Spark> Message-ID: Tom, That?s an interesting point. In thinking back now, I can clearly recall that I considered the position of the mast crutch roller to be a fixed point in the design. I think I figured that Stan put the roller where he did for a good reason, and my design should come as close as I could to putting the roller in the same place. This may have been a case of just wanting to nail down one aspect of the design in order to reduce the number of variables. In any case, the cutout gives me place that I can stick my head up above the rest of the frame, and doesn?t seem to have reduced the stiffness of the arch. But I doubt that raising the mast crutch roller a few inches would have caused any harm either. Peter > On Aug 14, 2020, at 6:03 PM, Thomas s wrote: > > Peter, > > After watching a bit of the video, instead of the cutout for the boom, could you not have simply made the mast crutch a few inches higher? > Was there some factor driving a hard-maximum height? > > Tom > ________________________________ > From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of mail.sunnybeeches.com > Sent: Friday, August 14, 2020 3:29 PM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Radar? > > Mike, > > Since my boat is at home on the trailer, it was easy to snap a few pics, which hopefully will be attached. > > There is also, of course, a YouTube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bMTMRPYyom8 > > Peter > (sent from my Mac using the Spark email client) > >> On Aug 14, 2020, 10:16 AM -0400, Michael D. Weisner , wrote: >>> Peter, >>> >>> Do you have a photo of the solar arch? >>> >>> Mike >>> s/v Wind Lass ('91) >>> Nissequogue River, NY >>> >>> >>> -----Original Message----- >>> From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of Peter Nyberg >>> Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2020 2:11 PM >>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List >>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Radar? >>> >>> Mark, >>> >>> Well, I have that whole solar arch construct I built on the back end of the boat to support my two 100 watt solar panels. As I recall, the radome is pretty light (~15 lbs?), so the arch shouldn?t have any problem supporting that as well. >>> >>> Without an arch, I?d say a pole mounted to the transom would be the way to go. I see a lot of sailboats with a radome mounted that way. I think there would be room between the rudder and the swim ladder, without limiting the swing of the rudder at all. >>> >>> ?Peter >>> >>> > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: DSCN6494.JPG > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 195415 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: DSCN6495.JPG > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 170062 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: DSCN6496.JPG > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 154961 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: From peter at sunnybeeches.com Fri Aug 14 22:00:15 2020 From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg) Date: Fri, 14 Aug 2020 22:00:15 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Maine Sailing Anyone? In-Reply-To: <1597452586742-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1596909318869-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1597056346226-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <70104B9D-0819-4814-A1B0-A6437B23D778@sunnybeeches.com> <1597452586742-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <270BDE41-46D8-4D48-AE2C-17DC546BF563@sunnybeeches.com> Jeff, I called. Left a message. You could call me at 860-742-8295. Peter > On Aug 14, 2020, at 8:49 PM, JeffSmith wrote: > > Hi Peter, > Info on launch ramp. Please call me at 732-236-1368. > > > > ----- > Jeff Smith > 2009 R22 #101 RADIANT > Atlantic Highlands Municpal Harbor > Atlantic Highlands, NJ > > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From gstewart8 at cogeco.ca Fri Aug 14 22:44:17 2020 From: gstewart8 at cogeco.ca (Graham Stewart) Date: Fri, 14 Aug 2020 22:44:17 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Radar? In-Reply-To: <7baff80a-a7a5-49cb-be55-106b01fb189e@Spark> References: <93AE7C1A-ED55-4BD2-94AE-9EA2997A3CD2@sunnybeeches.com> <00e901d67245$57ab1cb0$07015610$@ebsmed.com> <963501c4-4386-453e-b3cb-5872e581bcfa@Spark> <7baff80a-a7a5-49cb-be55-106b01fb189e@Spark> Message-ID: <007d01d672ad$fa2fe5c0$ee8fb140$@ca> That is amazing. Graham Stewart Agile, Rodes 22, 1976 Kingston Ontario -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of mail.sunnybeeches.com Sent: Friday, August 14, 2020 4:30 PM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Radar? Mike, Since my boat is at home on the trailer, it was easy to snap a few pics, which hopefully will be attached. There is also, of course, a YouTube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bMTMRPYyom8 Peter (sent from my Mac using the Spark email client) > On Aug 14, 2020, 10:16 AM -0400, Michael D. Weisner , wrote: > > Peter, > > > > Do you have a photo of the solar arch? > > > > Mike > > s/v Wind Lass ('91) > > Nissequogue River, NY > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of Peter Nyberg > > Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2020 2:11 PM > > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Radar? > > > > Mark, > > > > Well, I have that whole solar arch construct I built on the back end of the boat to support my two 100 watt solar panels. As I recall, the radome is pretty light (~15 lbs?), so the arch shouldn?t have any problem supporting that as well. > > > > Without an arch, I?d say a pole mounted to the transom would be the way to go. I see a lot of sailboats with a radome mounted that way. I think there would be room between the rudder and the swim ladder, without limiting the swing of the rudder at all. > > > > ?Peter > > > > -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: DSCN6494.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 195415 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: DSCN6495.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 170062 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: DSCN6496.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 154961 bytes Desc: not available URL: From sea20 at verizon.net Sat Aug 15 07:12:02 2020 From: sea20 at verizon.net (Scott Andrews) Date: Sat, 15 Aug 2020 07:12:02 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Radar? In-Reply-To: <007d01d672ad$fa2fe5c0$ee8fb140$@ca> References: <007d01d672ad$fa2fe5c0$ee8fb140$@ca> Message-ID: Nice job! I am interested in solar when I finally get a 22, thanks for sharing the step by step. Scott A. Sent from my iPhone > On Aug 14, 2020, at 10:44 PM, Graham Stewart wrote: > > ?That is amazing. > > > Graham Stewart > Agile, Rodes 22, 1976 > Kingston Ontario > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of mail.sunnybeeches.com > Sent: Friday, August 14, 2020 4:30 PM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Radar? > > Mike, > > Since my boat is at home on the trailer, it was easy to snap a few pics, which hopefully will be attached. > > There is also, of course, a YouTube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bMTMRPYyom8 > > Peter > (sent from my Mac using the Spark email client) > >>> On Aug 14, 2020, 10:16 AM -0400, Michael D. Weisner , wrote: >>> Peter, >>> >>> Do you have a photo of the solar arch? >>> >>> Mike >>> s/v Wind Lass ('91) >>> Nissequogue River, NY >>> >>> >>> -----Original Message----- >>> From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of Peter Nyberg >>> Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2020 2:11 PM >>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List >>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Radar? >>> >>> Mark, >>> >>> Well, I have that whole solar arch construct I built on the back end of the boat to support my two 100 watt solar panels. As I recall, the radome is pretty light (~15 lbs?), so the arch shouldn?t have any problem supporting that as well. >>> >>> Without an arch, I?d say a pole mounted to the transom would be the way to go. I see a lot of sailboats with a radome mounted that way. I think there would be room between the rudder and the swim ladder, without limiting the swing of the rudder at all. >>> >>> ?Peter >>> >>> > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: DSCN6494.JPG > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 195415 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: DSCN6495.JPG > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 170062 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: DSCN6496.JPG > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 154961 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: > From peter at sunnybeeches.com Sat Aug 15 10:38:43 2020 From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg) Date: Sat, 15 Aug 2020 10:38:43 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Maine Sailing Anyone? In-Reply-To: <270BDE41-46D8-4D48-AE2C-17DC546BF563@sunnybeeches.com> References: <1596909318869-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1597056346226-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <70104B9D-0819-4814-A1B0-A6437B23D778@sunnybeeches.com> <1597452586742-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <270BDE41-46D8-4D48-AE2C-17DC546BF563@sunnybeeches.com> Message-ID: <841D5CC8-DF53-4A37-9C38-CBE06A48F5BA@sunnybeeches.com> Jeff, After hearing from you that the Rockland harbormaster said that overnight parking was not allowed at Snow Marine Park, I called the town police. The officer I spoke with said that the lot at Snow Park was the best place he could think of to leave a vehicle and trailer for a week, since that?s what it's there for. He said that the police would not ticket a vehicle for overnight parking in that lot. He seem quite surprised that the harbormaster would say that overnight parking was not allowed at the park. Based on this conversation, I think I?ll stick with my original plan to leave the my truck and trailer in the Snow Park lot, and hope for the best. Peter Nyberg Coventry, CT s/v Silverheels (1988/2016) > On Aug 14, 2020, at 10:00 PM, Peter Nyberg wrote: > > Jeff, > > I called. Left a message. You could call me at 860-742-8295. > > Peter > > >> On Aug 14, 2020, at 8:49 PM, JeffSmith wrote: >> >> Hi Peter, >> Info on launch ramp. Please call me at 732-236-1368. >> >> >> >> ----- >> Jeff Smith >> 2009 R22 #101 RADIANT >> Atlantic Highlands Municpal Harbor >> Atlantic Highlands, NJ >> >> -- >> Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > From chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com Sat Aug 15 10:56:38 2020 From: chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com (Chris Geankoplis) Date: Sat, 15 Aug 2020 09:56:38 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Radar? In-Reply-To: References: <007d01d672ad$fa2fe5c0$ee8fb140$@ca> Message-ID: This is the setup for my 100 watt solar setup. Inexpensive and can be angled for and aft and is height adjustable. After 3,000 miles of sailing I still love it. Chris Geankoplis Enosis On Sat, 15 Aug 2020 at 06:12, Scott Andrews via Rhodes22-list < rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote: > Nice job! I am interested in solar when I finally get a 22, thanks for > sharing the step by step. > Scott A. > > Sent from my iPhone > > > On Aug 14, 2020, at 10:44 PM, Graham Stewart > wrote: > > > > ?That is amazing. > > > > > > Graham Stewart > > Agile, Rodes 22, 1976 > > Kingston Ontario > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On > Behalf Of mail.sunnybeeches.com > > Sent: Friday, August 14, 2020 4:30 PM > > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Radar? > > > > Mike, > > > > Since my boat is at home on the trailer, it was easy to snap a few pics, > which hopefully will be attached. > > > > There is also, of course, a YouTube video: > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bMTMRPYyom8 > > > > Peter > > (sent from my Mac using the Spark email client) > > > >>> On Aug 14, 2020, 10:16 AM -0400, Michael D. Weisner < > mweisner at ebsmed.com>, wrote: > >>> Peter, > >>> > >>> Do you have a photo of the solar arch? > >>> > >>> Mike > >>> s/v Wind Lass ('91) > >>> Nissequogue River, NY > >>> > >>> > >>> -----Original Message----- > >>> From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of > Peter Nyberg > >>> Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2020 2:11 PM > >>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > >>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Radar? > >>> > >>> Mark, > >>> > >>> Well, I have that whole solar arch construct I built on the back end > of the boat to support my two 100 watt solar panels. As I recall, the > radome is pretty light (~15 lbs?), so the arch shouldn?t have any problem > supporting that as well. > >>> > >>> Without an arch, I?d say a pole mounted to the transom would be the > way to go. I see a lot of sailboats with a radome mounted that way. I think > there would be room between the rudder and the swim ladder, without > limiting the swing of the rudder at all. > >>> > >>> ?Peter > >>> > >>> > > -------------- next part -------------- > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > Name: DSCN6494.JPG > > Type: image/jpeg > > Size: 195415 bytes > > Desc: not available > > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200814/a47ed68f/attachment.jpe > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > Name: DSCN6495.JPG > > Type: image/jpeg > > Size: 170062 bytes > > Desc: not available > > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200814/a47ed68f/attachment-0001.jpe > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > Name: DSCN6496.JPG > > Type: image/jpeg > > Size: 154961 bytes > > Desc: not available > > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200814/a47ed68f/attachment-0002.jpe > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_2928.jpeg Type: image/jpg Size: 4153475 bytes Desc: not available URL: From sea20 at verizon.net Sat Aug 15 13:58:49 2020 From: sea20 at verizon.net (Scott Andrews) Date: Sat, 15 Aug 2020 13:58:49 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Radar? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Also nice, I am thinking I may want to generate as much as I can. The great posts on the list really get me thinking! Sent from my iPhone > On Aug 15, 2020, at 10:56 AM, Chris Geankoplis wrote: > > ? > > This is the setup for my 100 watt solar setup. Inexpensive and can be angled for and aft and is height adjustable. After 3,000 miles of sailing I still love it. > Chris Geankoplis > Enosis > >> On Sat, 15 Aug 2020 at 06:12, Scott Andrews via Rhodes22-list wrote: >> Nice job! I am interested in solar when I finally get a 22, thanks for sharing the step by step. >> Scott A. >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> > On Aug 14, 2020, at 10:44 PM, Graham Stewart wrote: >> > >> > ?That is amazing. >> > >> > >> > Graham Stewart >> > Agile, Rodes 22, 1976 >> > Kingston Ontario >> > >> > >> > -----Original Message----- >> > From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of mail.sunnybeeches.com >> > Sent: Friday, August 14, 2020 4:30 PM >> > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List >> > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Radar? >> > >> > Mike, >> > >> > Since my boat is at home on the trailer, it was easy to snap a few pics, which hopefully will be attached. >> > >> > There is also, of course, a YouTube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bMTMRPYyom8 >> > >> > Peter >> > (sent from my Mac using the Spark email client) >> > >> >>> On Aug 14, 2020, 10:16 AM -0400, Michael D. Weisner , wrote: >> >>> Peter, >> >>> >> >>> Do you have a photo of the solar arch? >> >>> >> >>> Mike >> >>> s/v Wind Lass ('91) >> >>> Nissequogue River, NY >> >>> >> >>> >> >>> -----Original Message----- >> >>> From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of Peter Nyberg >> >>> Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2020 2:11 PM >> >>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List >> >>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Radar? >> >>> >> >>> Mark, >> >>> >> >>> Well, I have that whole solar arch construct I built on the back end of the boat to support my two 100 watt solar panels. As I recall, the radome is pretty light (~15 lbs?), so the arch shouldn?t have any problem supporting that as well. >> >>> >> >>> Without an arch, I?d say a pole mounted to the transom would be the way to go. I see a lot of sailboats with a radome mounted that way. I think there would be room between the rudder and the swim ladder, without limiting the swing of the rudder at all. >> >>> >> >>> ?Peter >> >>> >> >>> >> > -------------- next part -------------- >> > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >> > Name: DSCN6494.JPG >> > Type: image/jpeg >> > Size: 195415 bytes >> > Desc: not available >> > URL: >> > -------------- next part -------------- >> > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >> > Name: DSCN6495.JPG >> > Type: image/jpeg >> > Size: 170062 bytes >> > Desc: not available >> > URL: >> > -------------- next part -------------- >> > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >> > Name: DSCN6496.JPG >> > Type: image/jpeg >> > Size: 154961 bytes >> > Desc: not available >> > URL: >> > >> From njcassie at optonline.net Sat Aug 15 19:58:44 2020 From: njcassie at optonline.net (Nancy) Date: Sat, 15 Aug 2020 19:58:44 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Bilge Message-ID: <678FE132-B849-460C-9BC4-89C576033CAD@optonline.net> We had a lot of water in the bilge after the tropical storm. Pumped it all out. We seem to have 1/2? clear water in the bilge now. Eve. If we pump to dryness, it comes back clear, small amount. Thoughts? Thanks in advance. Nancy C Sent from my iPhone From wp.barry at icloud.com Sat Aug 15 20:39:22 2020 From: wp.barry at icloud.com (William Barry) Date: Sat, 15 Aug 2020 20:39:22 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Bilge In-Reply-To: <678FE132-B849-460C-9BC4-89C576033CAD@optonline.net> References: <678FE132-B849-460C-9BC4-89C576033CAD@optonline.net> Message-ID: Step 1, what is the source of water?? Water tank, holding tank (ew), rain water, outside body of water (lake/bay/ocean/etc). ?????????- William Barry wp.barry at icloud.com > On Aug 15, 2020, at 19:58, Nancy wrote: > > ?We had a lot of water in the bilge after the tropical storm. Pumped it all out. We seem to have 1/2? clear water in the bilge now. Eve. If we pump to dryness, it comes back clear, small amount. Thoughts? > Thanks in advance. > Nancy C > Sent from my iPhone From peter at sunnybeeches.com Sat Aug 15 21:03:15 2020 From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg) Date: Sat, 15 Aug 2020 21:03:15 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Bilge In-Reply-To: <678FE132-B849-460C-9BC4-89C576033CAD@optonline.net> References: <678FE132-B849-460C-9BC4-89C576033CAD@optonline.net> Message-ID: It?s likely that something got soaked and water is continuing to seep out slowly into the bilge. I?d keep an eye on it, but I doubt it?s anything to worry about. ?Peter > On Aug 15, 2020, at 7:58 PM, Nancy wrote: > > We had a lot of water in the bilge after the tropical storm. Pumped it all out. We seem to have 1/2? clear water in the bilge now. Eve. If we pump to dryness, it comes back clear, small amount. Thoughts? > Thanks in advance. > Nancy C > Sent from my iPhone From gramille at tds.net Sat Aug 15 21:38:51 2020 From: gramille at tds.net (gramille) Date: Sat, 15 Aug 2020 18:38:51 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] maisail problem revisited Message-ID: <1597541931198-0.post@n5.nabble.com> So I promised an update: I managed to get the tear in my mainsail repaired by a fellow sailor at my Marina on Lake Champlain. He went up in a Bosuns Chair and did a lovely job so no need to take the IMF apart at this point. However I chatted with him today while sailing in flukey winds. He told me that the sail fabric is probably compromised because it tore as he stitched it. This reminded me of Peter's comment that if I could tear the sail while pulling it out of the mast, there was something wrong with my sail. Certainly I have tried, with limited success, just about every technique and suggestion generously offered up by the R22 scribes. It seems much less likely to bunch up when I furl in the lower position, however it just feels as if I have a baggy sail. I see a new one in my future, so all those helpful installation tips are much appreciated. I will let you know when I bite the bullet, install a new main and, hopefully, can sail again with the boom in the upper position! Graham s.v. 00Sailin -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From njcassie at optonline.net Sat Aug 15 21:39:48 2020 From: njcassie at optonline.net (Nancy) Date: Sat, 15 Aug 2020 21:39:48 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Bilge In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <831761BB-F069-429F-A839-F3FF8071C07C@optonline.net> Thanks Sent from my iPhone > On Aug 15, 2020, at 9:04 PM, Peter Nyberg wrote: > > ?It?s likely that something got soaked and water is continuing to seep out slowly into the bilge. I?d keep an eye on it, but I doubt it?s anything to worry about. > > ?Peter > >> On Aug 15, 2020, at 7:58 PM, Nancy wrote: >> >> We had a lot of water in the bilge after the tropical storm. Pumped it all out. We seem to have 1/2? clear water in the bilge now. Eve. If we pump to dryness, it comes back clear, small amount. Thoughts? >> Thanks in advance. >> Nancy C >> Sent from my iPhone > From jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com Sun Aug 16 06:40:13 2020 From: jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com (JeffSmith) Date: Sun, 16 Aug 2020 03:40:13 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Maine Sailing Anyone? In-Reply-To: <841D5CC8-DF53-4A37-9C38-CBE06A48F5BA@sunnybeeches.com> References: <1596909318869-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1597056346226-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <70104B9D-0819-4814-A1B0-A6437B23D778@sunnybeeches.com> <1597452586742-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <270BDE41-46D8-4D48-AE2C-17DC546BF563@sunnybeeches.com> <841D5CC8-DF53-4A37-9C38-CBE06A48F5BA@sunnybeeches.com> Message-ID: <1597574413781-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Thanks for the research Peter. We launch today and will do the same. ----- Jeff Smith 2009 R22 #101 RADIANT Atlantic Highlands Municpal Harbor Atlantic Highlands, NJ -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From Tejas.Hill at outlook.com Sun Aug 16 15:52:35 2020 From: Tejas.Hill at outlook.com (Tex Hill) Date: Sun, 16 Aug 2020 14:52:35 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Bilge In-Reply-To: <831761BB-F069-429F-A839-F3FF8071C07C@optonline.net> References: <831761BB-F069-429F-A839-F3FF8071C07C@optonline.net> Message-ID: My daughter had a subtle leak that was hard to see how water got into the bilge. They finally traced it to one of the ports, removed the port, caulked It . Problem solved. Tex Hill Sent from my iPad > On Aug 15, 2020, at 8:39 PM, Nancy wrote: > > ?Thanks > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Aug 15, 2020, at 9:04 PM, Peter Nyberg wrote: >> >> ?It?s likely that something got soaked and water is continuing to seep out slowly into the bilge. I?d keep an eye on it, but I doubt it?s anything to worry about. >> >> ?Peter >> >>>> On Aug 15, 2020, at 7:58 PM, Nancy wrote: >>> >>> We had a lot of water in the bilge after the tropical storm. Pumped it all out. We seem to have 1/2? clear water in the bilge now. Eve. If we pump to dryness, it comes back clear, small amount. Thoughts? >>> Thanks in advance. >>> Nancy C >>> Sent from my iPhone >> > From gstewart8 at cogeco.ca Sun Aug 16 22:05:24 2020 From: gstewart8 at cogeco.ca (Graham Stewart) Date: Sun, 16 Aug 2020 22:05:24 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Bilge In-Reply-To: References: <831761BB-F069-429F-A839-F3FF8071C07C@optonline.net> Message-ID: <00ba01d6743a$e150ea70$a3f2bf50$@ca> Two seasons ago I had a variety of leaks in two windows, the companion way, the vent and the lazarette. Any rain at all and the water would flow in. On the otherhand if I ried to locate the leak using a hose and pouring copious amounts of water everywhere that seemed suspect, no water entered the boat. Last year, because of the highwater in lake Ontario I was not able to launch and the boat remaind under cover. I committed myself to track down and repair the leaks this year. I strung paper towel everywhere I thought was suspect and waited for a good rain to identify the leaks based on the telltale signs left on the paper towel. We have had a number of torrential downpours this year and so far not a drop of water in the boat. I think I have determined that water leaks in my boat are a function of how my boat happens to be feeling at any particular time. Graham Stewart Agile, Rodes 22, 1976 Kingston Ontario -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Tex Hill Sent: Sunday, August 16, 2020 3:53 PM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Bilge My daughter had a subtle leak that was hard to see how water got into the bilge. They finally traced it to one of the ports, removed the port, caulked It . Problem solved. Tex Hill Sent from my iPad > On Aug 15, 2020, at 8:39 PM, Nancy wrote: > > ?Thanks > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Aug 15, 2020, at 9:04 PM, Peter Nyberg wrote: >> >> ?It?s likely that something got soaked and water is continuing to seep out slowly into the bilge. I?d keep an eye on it, but I doubt it?s anything to worry about. >> >> ?Peter >> >>>> On Aug 15, 2020, at 7:58 PM, Nancy wrote: >>> >>> We had a lot of water in the bilge after the tropical storm. Pumped it all out. We seem to have 1/2? clear water in the bilge now. Eve. If we pump to dryness, it comes back clear, small amount. Thoughts? >>> Thanks in advance. >>> Nancy C >>> Sent from my iPhone >> > From Tejas.Hill at outlook.com Sun Aug 16 22:18:41 2020 From: Tejas.Hill at outlook.com (Tex Hill) Date: Sun, 16 Aug 2020 21:18:41 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Bilge In-Reply-To: <00ba01d6743a$e150ea70$a3f2bf50$@ca> References: <00ba01d6743a$e150ea70$a3f2bf50$@ca> Message-ID: You are probably right, I have had similar experience.(: Tex Sent from my iPad > On Aug 16, 2020, at 9:05 PM, Graham Stewart wrote: > > ?Two seasons ago I had a variety of leaks in two windows, the companion way, the vent and the lazarette. Any rain at all and the water would flow in. On the otherhand if I ried to locate the leak using a hose and pouring copious amounts of water everywhere that seemed suspect, no water entered the boat. Last year, because of the highwater in lake Ontario I was not able to launch and the boat remaind under cover. I committed myself to track down and repair the leaks this year. I strung paper towel everywhere I thought was suspect and waited for a good rain to identify the leaks based on the telltale signs left on the paper towel. We have had a number of torrential downpours this year and so far not a drop of water in the boat. > > I think I have determined that water leaks in my boat are a function of how my boat happens to be feeling at any particular time. > > Graham Stewart > Agile, Rodes 22, 1976 > Kingston Ontario > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Tex Hill > Sent: Sunday, August 16, 2020 3:53 PM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Bilge > > My daughter had a subtle leak that was hard to see how water got into the bilge. They finally traced it to one of the ports, removed the port, caulked It . Problem solved. > Tex Hill > > Sent from my iPad > >> On Aug 15, 2020, at 8:39 PM, Nancy wrote: >> >> ?Thanks >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >>>> On Aug 15, 2020, at 9:04 PM, Peter Nyberg wrote: >>> >>> ?It?s likely that something got soaked and water is continuing to seep out slowly into the bilge. I?d keep an eye on it, but I doubt it?s anything to worry about. >>> >>> ?Peter >>> >>>>> On Aug 15, 2020, at 7:58 PM, Nancy wrote: >>>> >>>> We had a lot of water in the bilge after the tropical storm. Pumped it all out. We seem to have 1/2? clear water in the bilge now. Eve. If we pump to dryness, it comes back clear, small amount. Thoughts? >>>> Thanks in advance. >>>> Nancy C >>>> Sent from my iPhone >>> >> > From njcassie at optonline.net Sun Aug 16 22:40:46 2020 From: njcassie at optonline.net (Nancy) Date: Sun, 16 Aug 2020 22:40:46 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Bilge In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Had a good rain today and will investigate in the morning. Feel like a detective Sent from my iPhone > On Aug 16, 2020, at 10:18 PM, Tex Hill wrote: > > ?You are probably right, I have had similar experience.(: > Tex > > Sent from my iPad > >> On Aug 16, 2020, at 9:05 PM, Graham Stewart wrote: >> >> ?Two seasons ago I had a variety of leaks in two windows, the companion way, the vent and the lazarette. Any rain at all and the water would flow in. On the otherhand if I ried to locate the leak using a hose and pouring copious amounts of water everywhere that seemed suspect, no water entered the boat. Last year, because of the highwater in lake Ontario I was not able to launch and the boat remaind under cover. I committed myself to track down and repair the leaks this year. I strung paper towel everywhere I thought was suspect and waited for a good rain to identify the leaks based on the telltale signs left on the paper towel. We have had a number of torrential downpours this year and so far not a drop of water in the boat. >> >> I think I have determined that water leaks in my boat are a function of how my boat happens to be feeling at any particular time. >> >> Graham Stewart >> Agile, Rodes 22, 1976 >> Kingston Ontario >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Tex Hill >> Sent: Sunday, August 16, 2020 3:53 PM >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Bilge >> >> My daughter had a subtle leak that was hard to see how water got into the bilge. They finally traced it to one of the ports, removed the port, caulked It . Problem solved. >> Tex Hill >> >> Sent from my iPad >> >>>> On Aug 15, 2020, at 8:39 PM, Nancy wrote: >>> >>> ?Thanks >>> >>> Sent from my iPhone >>> >>>>> On Aug 15, 2020, at 9:04 PM, Peter Nyberg wrote: >>>> >>>> ?It?s likely that something got soaked and water is continuing to seep out slowly into the bilge. I?d keep an eye on it, but I doubt it?s anything to worry about. >>>> >>>> ?Peter >>>> >>>>>> On Aug 15, 2020, at 7:58 PM, Nancy wrote: >>>>> >>>>> We had a lot of water in the bilge after the tropical storm. Pumped it all out. We seem to have 1/2? clear water in the bilge now. Eve. If we pump to dryness, it comes back clear, small amount. Thoughts? >>>>> Thanks in advance. >>>>> Nancy C >>>>> Sent from my iPhone >>>> >>> >> From michael.4591 at gmail.com Mon Aug 17 11:35:49 2020 From: michael.4591 at gmail.com (Michael Corley) Date: Mon, 17 Aug 2020 11:35:49 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Bilge In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I agree with Graham. "I think I have determined that water leaks in my boat are a function of how my boat happens to be feeling at any particular time." The little bit of water I get in my bilge comes mainly after rainstorms. No evidence of leaks . . . of course it could be the 21 year old ports and hatches need resetting/replacement. Mike S/V Ranger 99 Rhodes On Sun, Aug 16, 2020 at 10:40 PM Nancy wrote: > Had a good rain today and will investigate in the morning. Feel like a > detective > > Sent from my iPhone > > > On Aug 16, 2020, at 10:18 PM, Tex Hill wrote: > > > > ?You are probably right, I have had similar experience.(: > > Tex > > > > Sent from my iPad > > > >> On Aug 16, 2020, at 9:05 PM, Graham Stewart > wrote: > >> > >> ?Two seasons ago I had a variety of leaks in two windows, the > companion way, the vent and the lazarette. Any rain at all and the water > would flow in. On the otherhand if I ried to locate the leak using a hose > and pouring copious amounts of water everywhere that seemed suspect, no > water entered the boat. Last year, because of the highwater in lake Ontario > I was not able to launch and the boat remaind under cover. I committed > myself to track down and repair the leaks this year. I strung paper towel > everywhere I thought was suspect and waited for a good rain to identify the > leaks based on the telltale signs left on the paper towel. We have had a > number of torrential downpours this year and so far not a drop of water in > the boat. > >> > >> I think I have determined that water leaks in my boat are a function of > how my boat happens to be feeling at any particular time. > >> > >> Graham Stewart > >> Agile, Rodes 22, 1976 > >> Kingston Ontario > >> > >> > >> -----Original Message----- > >> From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On > Behalf Of Tex Hill > >> Sent: Sunday, August 16, 2020 3:53 PM > >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Bilge > >> > >> My daughter had a subtle leak that was hard to see how water got into > the bilge. They finally traced it to one of the ports, removed the port, > caulked It . Problem solved. > >> Tex Hill > >> > >> Sent from my iPad > >> > >>>> On Aug 15, 2020, at 8:39 PM, Nancy wrote: > >>> > >>> ?Thanks > >>> > >>> Sent from my iPhone > >>> > >>>>> On Aug 15, 2020, at 9:04 PM, Peter Nyberg > wrote: > >>>> > >>>> ?It?s likely that something got soaked and water is continuing to > seep out slowly into the bilge. I?d keep an eye on it, but I doubt it?s > anything to worry about. > >>>> > >>>> ?Peter > >>>> > >>>>>> On Aug 15, 2020, at 7:58 PM, Nancy wrote: > >>>>> > >>>>> We had a lot of water in the bilge after the tropical storm. Pumped > it all out. We seem to have 1/2? clear water in the bilge now. Eve. If we > pump to dryness, it comes back clear, small amount. Thoughts? > >>>>> Thanks in advance. > >>>>> Nancy C > >>>>> Sent from my iPhone > >>>> > >>> > >> > > From mitchpadl at gmail.com Tue Aug 18 10:28:30 2020 From: mitchpadl at gmail.com (Mitch Mitchell) Date: Tue, 18 Aug 2020 10:28:30 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Bilge In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I have also discovered water in the bilge whenever the boat is in the rain and not covered. I have traced it to a window, the vhf connector and water also shows up in the lazarette. I know that there have been a number of threads on this before but wondering if there is a consensus on the best way to seal the small windows? I'm thinking butyl tape but not sure. I've also had the bilge seem dry but if I lift the bow up water magically appears and if I dry it and then lower the bow (on trailer) then once again more water appears as it must be seeping in from other areas. Any input would be great. Thanks, Mitch On Mon, Aug 17, 2020 at 11:36 AM Michael Corley wrote: > I agree with Graham. "I think I have determined that water leaks in my > boat are a function of how my boat happens to be feeling at any particular > time." > The little bit of water I get in my bilge comes mainly after rainstorms. > No evidence of leaks . . . of course it could be the 21 year old ports > and hatches need resetting/replacement. > > Mike > S/V Ranger > 99 Rhodes > > On Sun, Aug 16, 2020 at 10:40 PM Nancy wrote: > > > Had a good rain today and will investigate in the morning. Feel like a > > detective > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > > On Aug 16, 2020, at 10:18 PM, Tex Hill wrote: > > > > > > ?You are probably right, I have had similar experience.(: > > > Tex > > > > > > Sent from my iPad > > > > > >> On Aug 16, 2020, at 9:05 PM, Graham Stewart > > wrote: > > >> > > >> ?Two seasons ago I had a variety of leaks in two windows, the > > companion way, the vent and the lazarette. Any rain at all and the water > > would flow in. On the otherhand if I ried to locate the leak using a hose > > and pouring copious amounts of water everywhere that seemed suspect, no > > water entered the boat. Last year, because of the highwater in lake > Ontario > > I was not able to launch and the boat remaind under cover. I committed > > myself to track down and repair the leaks this year. I strung paper towel > > everywhere I thought was suspect and waited for a good rain to identify > the > > leaks based on the telltale signs left on the paper towel. We have had a > > number of torrential downpours this year and so far not a drop of water > in > > the boat. > > >> > > >> I think I have determined that water leaks in my boat are a function > of > > how my boat happens to be feeling at any particular time. > > >> > > >> Graham Stewart > > >> Agile, Rodes 22, 1976 > > >> Kingston Ontario > > >> > > >> > > >> -----Original Message----- > > >> From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On > > Behalf Of Tex Hill > > >> Sent: Sunday, August 16, 2020 3:53 PM > > >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > > >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Bilge > > >> > > >> My daughter had a subtle leak that was hard to see how water got > into > > the bilge. They finally traced it to one of the ports, removed the port, > > caulked It . Problem solved. > > >> Tex Hill > > >> > > >> Sent from my iPad > > >> > > >>>> On Aug 15, 2020, at 8:39 PM, Nancy wrote: > > >>> > > >>> ?Thanks > > >>> > > >>> Sent from my iPhone > > >>> > > >>>>> On Aug 15, 2020, at 9:04 PM, Peter Nyberg > > wrote: > > >>>> > > >>>> ?It?s likely that something got soaked and water is continuing to > > seep out slowly into the bilge. I?d keep an eye on it, but I doubt it?s > > anything to worry about. > > >>>> > > >>>> ?Peter > > >>>> > > >>>>>> On Aug 15, 2020, at 7:58 PM, Nancy > wrote: > > >>>>> > > >>>>> We had a lot of water in the bilge after the tropical storm. Pumped > > it all out. We seem to have 1/2? clear water in the bilge now. Eve. If we > > pump to dryness, it comes back clear, small amount. Thoughts? > > >>>>> Thanks in advance. > > >>>>> Nancy C > > >>>>> Sent from my iPhone > > >>>> > > >>> > > >> > > > > > From mark at whipplefamily.com Tue Aug 18 10:39:38 2020 From: mark at whipplefamily.com (Mark Whipple) Date: Tue, 18 Aug 2020 10:39:38 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Bilge In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi Mitch, I'm not an expert on sealants but I think butyl tape would work for resealing the ports. What I am sure of is you should NEVER use a silicone-based sealant on a boat. Silicone makes a chemical bond with any surface it touches. Once you have silicone on a surface, nothing else will bond to it - not even more silicone. When you think you've removed silicone from a surface there is still residue you can't see. You have to apply a chemical called a "digester" to chemically break down and remove the silicone residue. I was recently repairing a skylight on my Nimble 30 and had to do the job all over because the sealant I used failed to bond. I didn't realize silicone had been used previously. Mark -- Boston, MA 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* 1987 Nimble 30 *For Sale* 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* On Tue, Aug 18, 2020 at 10:28 AM Mitch Mitchell wrote: > I have also discovered water in the bilge whenever the boat is in the rain > and not covered. I have traced it to a window, the vhf connector and water > also shows up in the lazarette. I know that there have been a number of > threads on this before but wondering if there is a consensus on the best > way to seal the small windows? I'm thinking butyl tape but not sure. I've > also had the bilge seem dry but if I lift the bow up water magically > appears and if I dry it and then lower the bow (on trailer) then once again > more water appears as it must be seeping in from other areas. Any input > would be great. Thanks, Mitch > > On Mon, Aug 17, 2020 at 11:36 AM Michael Corley > wrote: > > > I agree with Graham. "I think I have determined that water leaks in my > > boat are a function of how my boat happens to be feeling at any > particular > > time." > > The little bit of water I get in my bilge comes mainly after rainstorms. > > No evidence of leaks . . . of course it could be the 21 year old ports > > and hatches need resetting/replacement. > > > > Mike > > S/V Ranger > > 99 Rhodes > > > > On Sun, Aug 16, 2020 at 10:40 PM Nancy wrote: > > > > > Had a good rain today and will investigate in the morning. Feel like a > > > detective > > > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > > > > On Aug 16, 2020, at 10:18 PM, Tex Hill > wrote: > > > > > > > > ?You are probably right, I have had similar experience.(: > > > > Tex > > > > > > > > Sent from my iPad > > > > > > > >> On Aug 16, 2020, at 9:05 PM, Graham Stewart > > > wrote: > > > >> > > > >> ?Two seasons ago I had a variety of leaks in two windows, the > > > companion way, the vent and the lazarette. Any rain at all and the > water > > > would flow in. On the otherhand if I ried to locate the leak using a > hose > > > and pouring copious amounts of water everywhere that seemed suspect, no > > > water entered the boat. Last year, because of the highwater in lake > > Ontario > > > I was not able to launch and the boat remaind under cover. I committed > > > myself to track down and repair the leaks this year. I strung paper > towel > > > everywhere I thought was suspect and waited for a good rain to identify > > the > > > leaks based on the telltale signs left on the paper towel. We have had > a > > > number of torrential downpours this year and so far not a drop of water > > in > > > the boat. > > > >> > > > >> I think I have determined that water leaks in my boat are a function > > of > > > how my boat happens to be feeling at any particular time. > > > >> > > > >> Graham Stewart > > > >> Agile, Rodes 22, 1976 > > > >> Kingston Ontario > > > >> > > > >> > > > >> -----Original Message----- > > > >> From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On > > > Behalf Of Tex Hill > > > >> Sent: Sunday, August 16, 2020 3:53 PM > > > >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > > > >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Bilge > > > >> > > > >> My daughter had a subtle leak that was hard to see how water got > > into > > > the bilge. They finally traced it to one of the ports, removed the > port, > > > caulked It . Problem solved. > > > >> Tex Hill > > > >> > > > >> Sent from my iPad > > > >> > > > >>>> On Aug 15, 2020, at 8:39 PM, Nancy > wrote: > > > >>> > > > >>> ?Thanks > > > >>> > > > >>> Sent from my iPhone > > > >>> > > > >>>>> On Aug 15, 2020, at 9:04 PM, Peter Nyberg < > peter at sunnybeeches.com> > > > wrote: > > > >>>> > > > >>>> ?It?s likely that something got soaked and water is continuing to > > > seep out slowly into the bilge. I?d keep an eye on it, but I doubt > it?s > > > anything to worry about. > > > >>>> > > > >>>> ?Peter > > > >>>> > > > >>>>>> On Aug 15, 2020, at 7:58 PM, Nancy > > wrote: > > > >>>>> > > > >>>>> We had a lot of water in the bilge after the tropical storm. > Pumped > > > it all out. We seem to have 1/2? clear water in the bilge now. Eve. If > we > > > pump to dryness, it comes back clear, small amount. Thoughts? > > > >>>>> Thanks in advance. > > > >>>>> Nancy C > > > >>>>> Sent from my iPhone > > > >>>> > > > >>> > > > >> > > > > > > > > > From mitchpadl at gmail.com Tue Aug 18 10:47:56 2020 From: mitchpadl at gmail.com (Mitch Mitchell) Date: Tue, 18 Aug 2020 10:47:56 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Bilge In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Thanks Mark, hopefully the previous owner didn't use silicone. I'm hoping the port frame will come off easily. On Tue, Aug 18, 2020 at 10:39 AM Mark Whipple wrote: > Hi Mitch, > > I'm not an expert on sealants but I think butyl tape would work for > resealing the ports. What I am sure of is you should NEVER use a > silicone-based sealant on a boat. Silicone makes a chemical bond with any > surface it touches. Once you have silicone on a surface, nothing else will > bond to it - not even more silicone. When you think you've removed silicone > from a surface there is still residue you can't see. You have to apply a > chemical called a "digester" to chemically break down and remove the > silicone residue. I was recently repairing a skylight on my Nimble 30 and > had to do the job all over because the sealant I used failed to bond. I > didn't realize silicone had been used previously. > > Mark > -- > Boston, MA > > 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* > 1987 Nimble 30 *For Sale* > 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* > > On Tue, Aug 18, 2020 at 10:28 AM Mitch Mitchell > wrote: > > > I have also discovered water in the bilge whenever the boat is in the > rain > > and not covered. I have traced it to a window, the vhf connector and > water > > also shows up in the lazarette. I know that there have been a number of > > threads on this before but wondering if there is a consensus on the best > > way to seal the small windows? I'm thinking butyl tape but not sure. I've > > also had the bilge seem dry but if I lift the bow up water magically > > appears and if I dry it and then lower the bow (on trailer) then once > again > > more water appears as it must be seeping in from other areas. Any input > > would be great. Thanks, Mitch > > > > On Mon, Aug 17, 2020 at 11:36 AM Michael Corley > > wrote: > > > > > I agree with Graham. "I think I have determined that water leaks in my > > > boat are a function of how my boat happens to be feeling at any > > particular > > > time." > > > The little bit of water I get in my bilge comes mainly after > rainstorms. > > > No evidence of leaks . . . of course it could be the 21 year old > ports > > > and hatches need resetting/replacement. > > > > > > Mike > > > S/V Ranger > > > 99 Rhodes > > > > > > On Sun, Aug 16, 2020 at 10:40 PM Nancy wrote: > > > > > > > Had a good rain today and will investigate in the morning. Feel like > a > > > > detective > > > > > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > > > > > > On Aug 16, 2020, at 10:18 PM, Tex Hill > > wrote: > > > > > > > > > > ?You are probably right, I have had similar experience.(: > > > > > Tex > > > > > > > > > > Sent from my iPad > > > > > > > > > >> On Aug 16, 2020, at 9:05 PM, Graham Stewart > > > > wrote: > > > > >> > > > > >> ?Two seasons ago I had a variety of leaks in two windows, the > > > > companion way, the vent and the lazarette. Any rain at all and the > > water > > > > would flow in. On the otherhand if I ried to locate the leak using a > > hose > > > > and pouring copious amounts of water everywhere that seemed suspect, > no > > > > water entered the boat. Last year, because of the highwater in lake > > > Ontario > > > > I was not able to launch and the boat remaind under cover. I > committed > > > > myself to track down and repair the leaks this year. I strung paper > > towel > > > > everywhere I thought was suspect and waited for a good rain to > identify > > > the > > > > leaks based on the telltale signs left on the paper towel. We have > had > > a > > > > number of torrential downpours this year and so far not a drop of > water > > > in > > > > the boat. > > > > >> > > > > >> I think I have determined that water leaks in my boat are a > function > > > of > > > > how my boat happens to be feeling at any particular time. > > > > >> > > > > >> Graham Stewart > > > > >> Agile, Rodes 22, 1976 > > > > >> Kingston Ontario > > > > >> > > > > >> > > > > >> -----Original Message----- > > > > >> From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] > On > > > > Behalf Of Tex Hill > > > > >> Sent: Sunday, August 16, 2020 3:53 PM > > > > >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > > > > >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Bilge > > > > >> > > > > >> My daughter had a subtle leak that was hard to see how water got > > > into > > > > the bilge. They finally traced it to one of the ports, removed the > > port, > > > > caulked It . Problem solved. > > > > >> Tex Hill > > > > >> > > > > >> Sent from my iPad > > > > >> > > > > >>>> On Aug 15, 2020, at 8:39 PM, Nancy > > wrote: > > > > >>> > > > > >>> ?Thanks > > > > >>> > > > > >>> Sent from my iPhone > > > > >>> > > > > >>>>> On Aug 15, 2020, at 9:04 PM, Peter Nyberg < > > peter at sunnybeeches.com> > > > > wrote: > > > > >>>> > > > > >>>> ?It?s likely that something got soaked and water is continuing > to > > > > seep out slowly into the bilge. I?d keep an eye on it, but I doubt > > it?s > > > > anything to worry about. > > > > >>>> > > > > >>>> ?Peter > > > > >>>> > > > > >>>>>> On Aug 15, 2020, at 7:58 PM, Nancy > > > wrote: > > > > >>>>> > > > > >>>>> We had a lot of water in the bilge after the tropical storm. > > Pumped > > > > it all out. We seem to have 1/2? clear water in the bilge now. Eve. > If > > we > > > > pump to dryness, it comes back clear, small amount. Thoughts? > > > > >>>>> Thanks in advance. > > > > >>>>> Nancy C > > > > >>>>> Sent from my iPhone > > > > >>>> > > > > >>> > > > > >> > > > > > > > > > > > > > > From gstewart8 at cogeco.ca Tue Aug 18 11:40:46 2020 From: gstewart8 at cogeco.ca (Graham Stewart) Date: Tue, 18 Aug 2020 11:40:46 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Bilge In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <011001d67575$f7ceb1b0$e76c1510$@ca> Regarding the use of silicone for ports. Beckson, one of the largest manufacturer specifies that silicone SHOULD be used : Their installation instructions are found here: https://www.beckson.com/installport.html "Choice of Sealant: There are many brands of caulk, adhesive and sealant available in your marine chandlery or hardware store, but be wary, not all are like. Many are for specific applications and may contain solvents that are destructive to thermoplastics. Chemical solvents should not be used for clean up. Beckson recommends 100% silicone sealant only. Beckson recommends 100% silicone sealant only. Availability of silicone varies regionally. Please contact your sealant manufacturer for the most up to date information with regard to materials and compatibility. Silicone has been around for nearly 50 years without sign of failure. Most other caulks and sealants fail after 10 years. When a port is installed properly, silicone works best for years of enjoyment. Sanding previously caulked areas: Previously caulked or sealed areas must be sanded in order to remove the old caulk. If not removed, a strong bond will not occur. Surfaces may appear to be free of caulk to the eye, but residue may still be present on the gel coat. Sand lightly with 220 grit paper to prepare for the silicone sealant." Check with the port manufacturer before deciding. Butyl is probably a safe choice but while it is an excellent sealant it is very weak as an adhesive. On a slightly curves surface that adhesive quality might be important. Graham Stewart gstewart8 at cogeco.ca -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Mitch Mitchell Sent: Tuesday, August 18, 2020 10:48 AM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Bilge Thanks Mark, hopefully the previous owner didn't use silicone. I'm hoping the port frame will come off easily. On Tue, Aug 18, 2020 at 10:39 AM Mark Whipple wrote: > Hi Mitch, > > I'm not an expert on sealants but I think butyl tape would work for > resealing the ports. What I am sure of is you should NEVER use a > silicone-based sealant on a boat. Silicone makes a chemical bond with any > surface it touches. Once you have silicone on a surface, nothing else will > bond to it - not even more silicone. When you think you've removed silicone > from a surface there is still residue you can't see. You have to apply a > chemical called a "digester" to chemically break down and remove the > silicone residue. I was recently repairing a skylight on my Nimble 30 and > had to do the job all over because the sealant I used failed to bond. I > didn't realize silicone had been used previously. > > Mark > -- > Boston, MA > > 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* > 1987 Nimble 30 *For Sale* > 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* > > On Tue, Aug 18, 2020 at 10:28 AM Mitch Mitchell > wrote: > > > I have also discovered water in the bilge whenever the boat is in the > rain > > and not covered. I have traced it to a window, the vhf connector and > water > > also shows up in the lazarette. I know that there have been a number of > > threads on this before but wondering if there is a consensus on the best > > way to seal the small windows? I'm thinking butyl tape but not sure. I've > > also had the bilge seem dry but if I lift the bow up water magically > > appears and if I dry it and then lower the bow (on trailer) then once > again > > more water appears as it must be seeping in from other areas. Any input > > would be great. Thanks, Mitch > > > > On Mon, Aug 17, 2020 at 11:36 AM Michael Corley > > wrote: > > > > > I agree with Graham. "I think I have determined that water leaks in my > > > boat are a function of how my boat happens to be feeling at any > > particular > > > time." > > > The little bit of water I get in my bilge comes mainly after > rainstorms. > > > No evidence of leaks . . . of course it could be the 21 year old > ports > > > and hatches need resetting/replacement. > > > > > > Mike > > > S/V Ranger > > > 99 Rhodes > > > > > > On Sun, Aug 16, 2020 at 10:40 PM Nancy wrote: > > > > > > > Had a good rain today and will investigate in the morning. Feel like > a > > > > detective > > > > > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > > > > > > On Aug 16, 2020, at 10:18 PM, Tex Hill > > wrote: > > > > > > > > > > ?You are probably right, I have had similar experience.(: > > > > > Tex > > > > > > > > > > Sent from my iPad > > > > > > > > > >> On Aug 16, 2020, at 9:05 PM, Graham Stewart > > > > wrote: > > > > >> > > > > >> ?Two seasons ago I had a variety of leaks in two windows, the > > > > companion way, the vent and the lazarette. Any rain at all and the > > water > > > > would flow in. On the otherhand if I ried to locate the leak using a > > hose > > > > and pouring copious amounts of water everywhere that seemed suspect, > no > > > > water entered the boat. Last year, because of the highwater in lake > > > Ontario > > > > I was not able to launch and the boat remaind under cover. I > committed > > > > myself to track down and repair the leaks this year. I strung paper > > towel > > > > everywhere I thought was suspect and waited for a good rain to > identify > > > the > > > > leaks based on the telltale signs left on the paper towel. We have > had > > a > > > > number of torrential downpours this year and so far not a drop of > water > > > in > > > > the boat. > > > > >> > > > > >> I think I have determined that water leaks in my boat are a > function > > > of > > > > how my boat happens to be feeling at any particular time. > > > > >> > > > > >> Graham Stewart > > > > >> Agile, Rodes 22, 1976 > > > > >> Kingston Ontario > > > > >> > > > > >> > > > > >> -----Original Message----- > > > > >> From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] > On > > > > Behalf Of Tex Hill > > > > >> Sent: Sunday, August 16, 2020 3:53 PM > > > > >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > > > > >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Bilge > > > > >> > > > > >> My daughter had a subtle leak that was hard to see how water got > > > into > > > > the bilge. They finally traced it to one of the ports, removed the > > port, > > > > caulked It . Problem solved. > > > > >> Tex Hill > > > > >> > > > > >> Sent from my iPad > > > > >> > > > > >>>> On Aug 15, 2020, at 8:39 PM, Nancy > > wrote: > > > > >>> > > > > >>> ?Thanks > > > > >>> > > > > >>> Sent from my iPhone > > > > >>> > > > > >>>>> On Aug 15, 2020, at 9:04 PM, Peter Nyberg < > > peter at sunnybeeches.com> > > > > wrote: > > > > >>>> > > > > >>>> ?It?s likely that something got soaked and water is continuing > to > > > > seep out slowly into the bilge. I?d keep an eye on it, but I doubt > > it?s > > > > anything to worry about. > > > > >>>> > > > > >>>> ?Peter > > > > >>>> > > > > >>>>>> On Aug 15, 2020, at 7:58 PM, Nancy > > > wrote: > > > > >>>>> > > > > >>>>> We had a lot of water in the bilge after the tropical storm. > > Pumped > > > > it all out. We seem to have 1/2? clear water in the bilge now. Eve. > If > > we > > > > pump to dryness, it comes back clear, small amount. Thoughts? > > > > >>>>> Thanks in advance. > > > > >>>>> Nancy C > > > > >>>>> Sent from my iPhone > > > > >>>> > > > > >>> > > > > >> > > > > > > > > > > > > > > From mitchpadl at gmail.com Tue Aug 18 12:10:50 2020 From: mitchpadl at gmail.com (Mitch Mitchell) Date: Tue, 18 Aug 2020 12:10:50 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Bilge In-Reply-To: <011001d67575$f7ceb1b0$e76c1510$@ca> References: <011001d67575$f7ceb1b0$e76c1510$@ca> Message-ID: Interesting, thanks Graham. On Tue, Aug 18, 2020 at 11:41 AM Graham Stewart wrote: > Regarding the use of silicone for ports. > > Beckson, one of the largest manufacturer specifies that silicone SHOULD be > used : > > Their installation instructions are found here: > https://www.beckson.com/installport.html > > "Choice of Sealant: > > There are many brands of caulk, adhesive and sealant available in your > marine chandlery or hardware store, but be wary, not all are like. Many are > for specific applications and may contain solvents that are destructive to > thermoplastics. Chemical solvents should not be used for clean up. > > Beckson recommends 100% silicone sealant only. > > Beckson recommends 100% silicone sealant only. Availability of silicone > varies regionally. Please contact your sealant manufacturer for the most up > to date information with regard to materials and compatibility. Silicone > has been around for nearly 50 years without sign of failure. Most other > caulks and sealants fail after 10 years. When a port is installed properly, > silicone works best for years of enjoyment. > > Sanding previously caulked areas: > > Previously caulked or sealed areas must be sanded in order to remove the > old caulk. If not removed, a strong bond will not occur. Surfaces may > appear to be free of caulk to the eye, but residue may still be present on > the gel coat. Sand lightly with 220 grit paper to prepare for the silicone > sealant." > > Check with the port manufacturer before deciding. Butyl is probably a safe > choice but while it is an excellent sealant it is very weak as an adhesive. > On a slightly curves surface that adhesive quality might be important. > > Graham Stewart > gstewart8 at cogeco.ca > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf > Of Mitch Mitchell > Sent: Tuesday, August 18, 2020 10:48 AM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Bilge > > Thanks Mark, hopefully the previous owner didn't use silicone. I'm hoping > the port frame will come off easily. > > On Tue, Aug 18, 2020 at 10:39 AM Mark Whipple > wrote: > > > Hi Mitch, > > > > I'm not an expert on sealants but I think butyl tape would work for > > resealing the ports. What I am sure of is you should NEVER use a > > silicone-based sealant on a boat. Silicone makes a chemical bond with any > > surface it touches. Once you have silicone on a surface, nothing else > will > > bond to it - not even more silicone. When you think you've removed > silicone > > from a surface there is still residue you can't see. You have to apply a > > chemical called a "digester" to chemically break down and remove the > > silicone residue. I was recently repairing a skylight on my Nimble 30 and > > had to do the job all over because the sealant I used failed to bond. I > > didn't realize silicone had been used previously. > > > > Mark > > -- > > Boston, MA > > > > 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* > > 1987 Nimble 30 *For Sale* > > 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* > > > > On Tue, Aug 18, 2020 at 10:28 AM Mitch Mitchell > > wrote: > > > > > I have also discovered water in the bilge whenever the boat is in the > > rain > > > and not covered. I have traced it to a window, the vhf connector and > > water > > > also shows up in the lazarette. I know that there have been a number of > > > threads on this before but wondering if there is a consensus on the > best > > > way to seal the small windows? I'm thinking butyl tape but not sure. > I've > > > also had the bilge seem dry but if I lift the bow up water magically > > > appears and if I dry it and then lower the bow (on trailer) then once > > again > > > more water appears as it must be seeping in from other areas. Any input > > > would be great. Thanks, Mitch > > > > > > On Mon, Aug 17, 2020 at 11:36 AM Michael Corley < > michael.4591 at gmail.com> > > > wrote: > > > > > > > I agree with Graham. "I think I have determined that water leaks in > my > > > > boat are a function of how my boat happens to be feeling at any > > > particular > > > > time." > > > > The little bit of water I get in my bilge comes mainly after > > rainstorms. > > > > No evidence of leaks . . . of course it could be the 21 year old > > ports > > > > and hatches need resetting/replacement. > > > > > > > > Mike > > > > S/V Ranger > > > > 99 Rhodes > > > > > > > > On Sun, Aug 16, 2020 at 10:40 PM Nancy > wrote: > > > > > > > > > Had a good rain today and will investigate in the morning. Feel > like > > a > > > > > detective > > > > > > > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > > > > > > > > On Aug 16, 2020, at 10:18 PM, Tex Hill > > > wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > ?You are probably right, I have had similar experience.(: > > > > > > Tex > > > > > > > > > > > > Sent from my iPad > > > > > > > > > > > >> On Aug 16, 2020, at 9:05 PM, Graham Stewart < > gstewart8 at cogeco.ca> > > > > > wrote: > > > > > >> > > > > > >> ?Two seasons ago I had a variety of leaks in two windows, the > > > > > companion way, the vent and the lazarette. Any rain at all and the > > > water > > > > > would flow in. On the otherhand if I ried to locate the leak using > a > > > hose > > > > > and pouring copious amounts of water everywhere that seemed > suspect, > > no > > > > > water entered the boat. Last year, because of the highwater in lake > > > > Ontario > > > > > I was not able to launch and the boat remaind under cover. I > > committed > > > > > myself to track down and repair the leaks this year. I strung paper > > > towel > > > > > everywhere I thought was suspect and waited for a good rain to > > identify > > > > the > > > > > leaks based on the telltale signs left on the paper towel. We have > > had > > > a > > > > > number of torrential downpours this year and so far not a drop of > > water > > > > in > > > > > the boat. > > > > > >> > > > > > >> I think I have determined that water leaks in my boat are a > > function > > > > of > > > > > how my boat happens to be feeling at any particular time. > > > > > >> > > > > > >> Graham Stewart > > > > > >> Agile, Rodes 22, 1976 > > > > > >> Kingston Ontario > > > > > >> > > > > > >> > > > > > >> -----Original Message----- > > > > > >> From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] > > On > > > > > Behalf Of Tex Hill > > > > > >> Sent: Sunday, August 16, 2020 3:53 PM > > > > > >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > > > > > >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Bilge > > > > > >> > > > > > >> My daughter had a subtle leak that was hard to see how water > got > > > > into > > > > > the bilge. They finally traced it to one of the ports, removed the > > > port, > > > > > caulked It . Problem solved. > > > > > >> Tex Hill > > > > > >> > > > > > >> Sent from my iPad > > > > > >> > > > > > >>>> On Aug 15, 2020, at 8:39 PM, Nancy > > > wrote: > > > > > >>> > > > > > >>> ?Thanks > > > > > >>> > > > > > >>> Sent from my iPhone > > > > > >>> > > > > > >>>>> On Aug 15, 2020, at 9:04 PM, Peter Nyberg < > > > peter at sunnybeeches.com> > > > > > wrote: > > > > > >>>> > > > > > >>>> ?It?s likely that something got soaked and water is continuing > > to > > > > > seep out slowly into the bilge. I?d keep an eye on it, but I doubt > > > it?s > > > > > anything to worry about. > > > > > >>>> > > > > > >>>> ?Peter > > > > > >>>> > > > > > >>>>>> On Aug 15, 2020, at 7:58 PM, Nancy > > > > wrote: > > > > > >>>>> > > > > > >>>>> We had a lot of water in the bilge after the tropical storm. > > > Pumped > > > > > it all out. We seem to have 1/2? clear water in the bilge now. Eve. > > If > > > we > > > > > pump to dryness, it comes back clear, small amount. Thoughts? > > > > > >>>>> Thanks in advance. > > > > > >>>>> Nancy C > > > > > >>>>> Sent from my iPhone > > > > > >>>> > > > > > >>> > > > > > >> > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > From Tejas.Hill at outlook.com Tue Aug 18 16:47:00 2020 From: Tejas.Hill at outlook.com (Tex Hill) Date: Tue, 18 Aug 2020 15:47:00 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Ideas to sell our 1986 Rhodes 22 ..Asking $4, 000.00 Message-ID: Need to sell our 1986 Rhodes 22 with Rhodes Uni-Matic trailer (15? wheels) that we purchased from Elton in 1996. I don?t know what is standard equipment these days, but some of the equipment that Elton has on the bill of sale list such things as IMF innermost furling main, 175% Genoa, furling and reefing, exclusive R- 22 6:1 outboard motor lift, aft cabin and cabin top grab rails,2 winches,2 Genoa tracks, stern ladder, docking cleats, interior and cockpit cushions, mast hoist system, bow and stern pulpits , etc...........probably similar equipment on all. We purchased a new 8 hp Mercury long shaft motor when we bought the boat. It has low hours.. maybe 100 hours at most, We also purchased the enclosure that fits over the pop top which encloses the galley/salon area with stand up room for my 6-4? height, looks like a pilot house. Needs some work for scratches and dings, and replace the galley area, but is sailable as is. I removed the galley that was a little worn but poor health prohibits me from finishing it. Still have the original galley in my shop which could be reinstalled or new galley which was my intention. Any ideas on how to sell it would be helpful. Health problems are forcing us to sell it and our PDQ 36 LRC catamaran. Looks like land cruising might be in our future. Thank you, Tex Hill Sent from my iPad From retiredtoby at gmail.com Tue Aug 18 16:53:19 2020 From: retiredtoby at gmail.com (Cary Tolbert) Date: Tue, 18 Aug 2020 16:53:19 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Ideas to sell our 1986 Rhodes 22 ..Asking $4, 000.00 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Texas. Did you include the price? Sailboat listing, and Texas sailboats are 2 of the more common sites. I think they are free to list, you pay when the boat is sold Cary Tolbert S/V Whisper '86 On Tue, Aug 18, 2020, 4:47 PM Tex Hill wrote: > Need to sell our 1986 Rhodes 22 with Rhodes Uni-Matic trailer (15? wheels) > that we purchased from Elton in 1996. > I don?t know what is standard equipment these days, but some of the > equipment that Elton has on the bill of sale list such things as IMF > innermost furling main, 175% Genoa, furling and reefing, exclusive R- 22 > 6:1 outboard motor lift, aft cabin and cabin top grab rails,2 winches,2 > Genoa tracks, stern ladder, docking cleats, interior and cockpit cushions, > mast hoist system, bow and stern pulpits , etc...........probably similar > equipment on all. > We purchased a new 8 hp Mercury long shaft motor when we bought the boat. > It has low hours.. maybe 100 hours at most, We also purchased the enclosure > that fits over the pop top which encloses the galley/salon area with stand > up room for my 6-4? height, looks like a pilot house. > Needs some work for scratches and dings, and replace the galley area, but > is sailable as is. I removed the galley that was a little worn but poor > health prohibits me from finishing it. Still have the original galley in my > shop which could be reinstalled or new galley which was my intention. > Any ideas on how to sell it would be helpful. Health problems are forcing > us to sell it and our PDQ 36 LRC catamaran. Looks like land cruising might > be in our future. > Thank you, > Tex Hill > > Sent from my iPad From Tejas.Hill at outlook.com Tue Aug 18 16:57:01 2020 From: Tejas.Hill at outlook.com (Tex Hill) Date: Tue, 18 Aug 2020 15:57:01 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Ideas to sell our 1986 Rhodes 22 ..Asking $4, 000.00 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Cary, Thank you. Yes $ 4,000.00 Will check on those sites. Tex Sent from my iPad > On Aug 18, 2020, at 3:53 PM, Cary Tolbert wrote: > > ?Texas. Did you include the price? > Sailboat listing, and Texas sailboats are 2 of the more common sites. I > think they are free to list, you pay when the boat is sold > Cary Tolbert > S/V Whisper '86 > >> On Tue, Aug 18, 2020, 4:47 PM Tex Hill wrote: >> >> Need to sell our 1986 Rhodes 22 with Rhodes Uni-Matic trailer (15? wheels) >> that we purchased from Elton in 1996. >> I don?t know what is standard equipment these days, but some of the >> equipment that Elton has on the bill of sale list such things as IMF >> innermost furling main, 175% Genoa, furling and reefing, exclusive R- 22 >> 6:1 outboard motor lift, aft cabin and cabin top grab rails,2 winches,2 >> Genoa tracks, stern ladder, docking cleats, interior and cockpit cushions, >> mast hoist system, bow and stern pulpits , etc...........probably similar >> equipment on all. >> We purchased a new 8 hp Mercury long shaft motor when we bought the boat. >> It has low hours.. maybe 100 hours at most, We also purchased the enclosure >> that fits over the pop top which encloses the galley/salon area with stand >> up room for my 6-4? height, looks like a pilot house. >> Needs some work for scratches and dings, and replace the galley area, but >> is sailable as is. I removed the galley that was a little worn but poor >> health prohibits me from finishing it. Still have the original galley in my >> shop which could be reinstalled or new galley which was my intention. >> Any ideas on how to sell it would be helpful. Health problems are forcing >> us to sell it and our PDQ 36 LRC catamaran. Looks like land cruising might >> be in our future. >> Thank you, >> Tex Hill >> >> Sent from my iPad From tom.vanheule at intrinsicprograms.com Tue Aug 18 17:09:39 2020 From: tom.vanheule at intrinsicprograms.com (Tom Van Heule) Date: Tue, 18 Aug 2020 16:09:39 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Ideas to sell our 1986 Rhodes 22 ..Asking $4, 000.00 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: You should ask for more. Sounds like it's reasonable, but still a project. I'm not saying add a zero, but a sailable r22 + trailer+ 2k outboard should be worth more no matter? On Tue, Aug 18, 2020, 3:57 PM Tex Hill wrote: > Cary, > Thank you. Yes $ 4,000.00 > Will check on those sites. > Tex > > > Sent from my iPad > > > On Aug 18, 2020, at 3:53 PM, Cary Tolbert wrote: > > > > ?Texas. Did you include the price? > > Sailboat listing, and Texas sailboats are 2 of the more common sites. I > > think they are free to list, you pay when the boat is sold > > Cary Tolbert > > S/V Whisper '86 > > > >> On Tue, Aug 18, 2020, 4:47 PM Tex Hill wrote: > >> > >> Need to sell our 1986 Rhodes 22 with Rhodes Uni-Matic trailer (15? > wheels) > >> that we purchased from Elton in 1996. > >> I don?t know what is standard equipment these days, but some of the > >> equipment that Elton has on the bill of sale list such things as IMF > >> innermost furling main, 175% Genoa, furling and reefing, exclusive R- 22 > >> 6:1 outboard motor lift, aft cabin and cabin top grab rails,2 winches,2 > >> Genoa tracks, stern ladder, docking cleats, interior and cockpit > cushions, > >> mast hoist system, bow and stern pulpits , etc...........probably > similar > >> equipment on all. > >> We purchased a new 8 hp Mercury long shaft motor when we bought the > boat. > >> It has low hours.. maybe 100 hours at most, We also purchased the > enclosure > >> that fits over the pop top which encloses the galley/salon area with > stand > >> up room for my 6-4? height, looks like a pilot house. > >> Needs some work for scratches and dings, and replace the galley area, > but > >> is sailable as is. I removed the galley that was a little worn but poor > >> health prohibits me from finishing it. Still have the original galley > in my > >> shop which could be reinstalled or new galley which was my intention. > >> Any ideas on how to sell it would be helpful. Health problems are > forcing > >> us to sell it and our PDQ 36 LRC catamaran. Looks like land cruising > might > >> be in our future. > >> Thank you, > >> Tex Hill > >> > >> Sent from my iPad > From retiredtoby at gmail.com Tue Aug 18 17:15:36 2020 From: retiredtoby at gmail.com (Cary Tolbert) Date: Tue, 18 Aug 2020 17:15:36 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Ideas to sell our 1986 Rhodes 22 ..Asking $4, 000.00 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Tex, that may be"Sailing Texas". Sorry old memory On Tue, Aug 18, 2020, 5:09 PM Tom Van Heule < tom.vanheule at intrinsicprograms.com> wrote: > You should ask for more. Sounds like it's reasonable, but still a project. > I'm not saying add a zero, but a sailable r22 + trailer+ 2k outboard should > be worth more no matter? > > On Tue, Aug 18, 2020, 3:57 PM Tex Hill wrote: > > > Cary, > > Thank you. Yes $ 4,000.00 > > Will check on those sites. > > Tex > > > > > > Sent from my iPad > > > > > On Aug 18, 2020, at 3:53 PM, Cary Tolbert > wrote: > > > > > > ?Texas. Did you include the price? > > > Sailboat listing, and Texas sailboats are 2 of the more common sites. I > > > think they are free to list, you pay when the boat is sold > > > Cary Tolbert > > > S/V Whisper '86 > > > > > >> On Tue, Aug 18, 2020, 4:47 PM Tex Hill > wrote: > > >> > > >> Need to sell our 1986 Rhodes 22 with Rhodes Uni-Matic trailer (15? > > wheels) > > >> that we purchased from Elton in 1996. > > >> I don?t know what is standard equipment these days, but some of the > > >> equipment that Elton has on the bill of sale list such things as IMF > > >> innermost furling main, 175% Genoa, furling and reefing, exclusive R- > 22 > > >> 6:1 outboard motor lift, aft cabin and cabin top grab rails,2 > winches,2 > > >> Genoa tracks, stern ladder, docking cleats, interior and cockpit > > cushions, > > >> mast hoist system, bow and stern pulpits , etc...........probably > > similar > > >> equipment on all. > > >> We purchased a new 8 hp Mercury long shaft motor when we bought the > > boat. > > >> It has low hours.. maybe 100 hours at most, We also purchased the > > enclosure > > >> that fits over the pop top which encloses the galley/salon area with > > stand > > >> up room for my 6-4? height, looks like a pilot house. > > >> Needs some work for scratches and dings, and replace the galley area, > > but > > >> is sailable as is. I removed the galley that was a little worn but > poor > > >> health prohibits me from finishing it. Still have the original galley > > in my > > >> shop which could be reinstalled or new galley which was my intention. > > >> Any ideas on how to sell it would be helpful. Health problems are > > forcing > > >> us to sell it and our PDQ 36 LRC catamaran. Looks like land cruising > > might > > >> be in our future. > > >> Thank you, > > >> Tex Hill > > >> > > >> Sent from my iPad > > > From mweisner at ebsmed.com Tue Aug 18 17:31:49 2020 From: mweisner at ebsmed.com (Michael D. Weisner) Date: Tue, 18 Aug 2020 17:31:49 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Under Seat Storage retaining bars In-Reply-To: <808760632.28601.1597718432334.JavaMail.administrator@n5.nabble.com> References: <808760632.28601.1597718432334.JavaMail.administrator@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <002301d675a6$fc5247c0$f4f6d740$@ebsmed.com> George, Thanks for the update. They are hard to find as most stores (local Target, Walmart, Home Depot, etc.) are out of stock. They must be COVID-19 containers or something. I'll pick some up over the winter when I will be working on the project. Very nice storage system! Today was a beautiful day to be sailing on LI Sound! Bright sunshine, 81F, 8-12 mph WSW, water was flat and dew point of 60! Mike s/v Wind Lass ('91) Nissequogue River, NY I'd rather be sailing :~) -----Original Message----- Sent: Monday, August 17, 2020 10:41 PM Subject: Under Seat Storage retaining bars Hi Mike, When I posted about my retaining bars which lift up in their tracks and are held up in a notch at the top, you asked if I designed it for any certain container size. I did not, but I just found some containers at Target for $7.99 which fit perfectly. They are not weatherproof, but do have a tight fitting lid. Rubbermaid Roughneck 10 Gallon Stackable Storage Box, 23.875Dx15.9Wx8.7"H George Morgan _____________________________________ Sent from http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com From Tejas.Hill at outlook.com Tue Aug 18 19:28:02 2020 From: Tejas.Hill at outlook.com (Tex Hill) Date: Tue, 18 Aug 2020 18:28:02 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Ideas to sell our 1986 Rhodes 22 ..Asking $4, 000.00 Message-ID: Tom, Thank you for your reply. Yes, I think you might be correct, good boat, good trailer, motor etc. will check on comparable prices before I go further. Tex Sent from my iPad > On Aug 18, 2020, at 4:09 PM, Tom Van Heule wrote: > > ?You should ask for more. Sounds like it's reasonable, but still a project. > I'm not saying add a zero, but a sailable r22 + trailer+ 2k outboard should > be worth more no matter? > >>> On Tue, Aug 18, 2020, 3:57 PM Tex Hill wrote: >> Cary, >> Thank you. Yes $ 4,000.00 >> Will check on those sites. >> Tex >> Sent from my iPad >>>> On Aug 18, 2020, at 3:53 PM, Cary Tolbert wrote: >>> ?Texas. Did you include the price? >>> Sailboat listing, and Texas sailboats are 2 of the more common sites. I >>> think they are free to list, you pay when the boat is sold >>> Cary Tolbert >>> S/V Whisper '86 >>>> On Tue, Aug 18, 2020, 4:47 PM Tex Hill wrote: >>>> Need to sell our 1986 Rhodes 22 with Rhodes Uni-Matic trailer (15? >> wheels) >>>> that we purchased from Elton in 1996. >>>> I don?t know what is standard equipment these days, but some of the >>>> equipment that Elton has on the bill of sale list such things as IMF >>>> innermost furling main, 175% Genoa, furling and reefing, exclusive R- 22 >>>> 6:1 outboard motor lift, aft cabin and cabin top grab rails,2 winches,2 >>>> Genoa tracks, stern ladder, docking cleats, interior and cockpit >> cushions, >>>> mast hoist system, bow and stern pulpits , etc...........probably >> similar >>>> equipment on all. >>>> We purchased a new 8 hp Mercury long shaft motor when we bought the >> boat. >>>> It has low hours.. maybe 100 hours at most, We also purchased the >> enclosure >>>> that fits over the pop top which encloses the galley/salon area with >> stand >>>> up room for my 6-4? height, looks like a pilot house. >>>> Needs some work for scratches and dings, and replace the galley area, >> but >>>> is sailable as is. I removed the galley that was a little worn but poor >>>> health prohibits me from finishing it. Still have the original galley >> in my >>>> shop which could be reinstalled or new galley which was my intention. >>>> Any ideas on how to sell it would be helpful. Health problems are >> forcing >>>> us to sell it and our PDQ 36 LRC catamaran. Looks like land cruising >> might >>>> be in our future. >>>> Thank you, >>>> Tex Hill >>>> Sent from my iPad From chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com Wed Aug 19 10:56:24 2020 From: chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com (Chris Geankoplis) Date: Wed, 19 Aug 2020 10:56:24 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] A place to dock in Baltimore or Annapolis Message-ID: Chris G here. We are back in Md. and will be looking for someplace to keep the little red Rhodes for the month of September. Does any of you Chesapeake sailors have some suggestions ? Chris Geankoplis Enosis From reuben.mezrich at gmail.com Wed Aug 19 11:44:38 2020 From: reuben.mezrich at gmail.com (Reuben Mezrich) Date: Wed, 19 Aug 2020 11:44:38 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] A place to dock in Baltimore or Annapolis In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Chris I've been lurking on this list for a while and have been talking (via email) with Stan about getting a Recycled Rhodes 22 to replace the Island Packet 380 that I recently sold.I'm hopeful that I'll be the proud owner of a Rhodes 22 by November - Stan willing. I had kept my boat in Harborview Marina in Baltimore's Inner Harbor for the past 18 years and can recommend it to be well maintained with a good staff and friendly boaters (about 1/2 sail and 1/2 motor).There are about 100 slips but at least a1/3 are empty (which is the case for all of the marinas in the inner harbor. As it turns out I paid for my slip for the year - through next march - as I didn't know how fast I'd be able to sell my Island Packet. It's empty and I expect we could talk the Marina into letting you have that slip for a month since I've already paid for it (and they don't give refunds). Of course I wouldn't expect payment from you although I would ask if I could watch - from a safe social distance - as I watch you work on the boat....I expect I'd learn a lot about the boat I'll get in the fall. --Reuben Reuben Mezrich Pelican Cove in Sarasota and Inner Harbor in Baltimore Cell: 410-499-8922 On Wed, Aug 19, 2020 at 10:56 AM Chris Geankoplis wrote: > Chris G here. We are back in Md. and will be looking for someplace to keep > the little red Rhodes for the month of September. Does any of you > Chesapeake sailors have some suggestions ? > Chris Geankoplis > Enosis > From stan at generalboats.com Wed Aug 19 18:21:20 2020 From: stan at generalboats.com (stan) Date: Wed, 19 Aug 2020 18:21:20 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] A place to dock in Baltimore or Annapolis In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <820e39af-a721-5db1-0e92-6296e404a5b4@generalboats.com> 9 acres of free space in Edenton plus the boat will? have lots of family. On 8/19/20 10:56 AM, Chris Geankoplis wrote: > Chris G here. We are back in Md. and will be looking for someplace to keep > the little red Rhodes for the month of September. Does any of you > Chesapeake sailors have some suggestions ? > Chris Geankoplis > Enosis > From chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com Wed Aug 19 18:46:33 2020 From: chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com (Chris Geankoplis) Date: Wed, 19 Aug 2020 18:46:33 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] A place to dock in Baltimore or Annapolis In-Reply-To: <820e39af-a721-5db1-0e92-6296e404a5b4@generalboats.com> References: <820e39af-a721-5db1-0e92-6296e404a5b4@generalboats.com> Message-ID: Aww Stan, You make me smile! If only! Just not up to the commute. On the other hand, since I've got you, the new boat has a lovely red hull that was recycled in 2016. I just need enough of the secret formula red paint to roll and tip the stern. So I'll contact you back channel to provide the details for the support program. I don't leave the dock without it. Chris G Enosis On Wed, Aug 19, 2020 at 6:21 PM stan wrote: > > 9 acres of free space in Edenton plus the boat will have lots of family. > > On 8/19/20 10:56 AM, Chris Geankoplis wrote: > > Chris G here. We are back in Md. and will be looking for someplace to > keep > > the little red Rhodes for the month of September. Does any of you > > Chesapeake sailors have some suggestions ? > > Chris Geankoplis > > Enosis > > > > From gmorgan.flier at gmail.com Wed Aug 19 20:51:31 2020 From: gmorgan.flier at gmail.com (Gmorganflier) Date: Wed, 19 Aug 2020 17:51:31 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Strange Electrical Problem Message-ID: <1597884691752-0.post@n5.nabble.com> This has happened twice on my boat. For seemingly no reason, the electric starter on my Mercury 9.9 and the motor for the engine lift will stop working. Using my volt meter, the start battery is at 12.95v. Tracing the battery cables to the Laz, the voltage at the terminal block where the battery cables, the outboard?s electric cables and the lift motor cables all connect is also 12.95v. The voltage downstream of the lift motor fuse is 12.95. The fuse on the outboard is not blown. The wing nuts on the terminal block are tight. When I push the switch for the motor lift, there is no draw...voltage steady at 12.95v. This has me scratching my head...what the heck is going on. Last time this happened, I took all the cables off the laz terminal block. They looked clean with no corrosion and when I reattached them, everything worked. I haven?t tried doing that this time. Has anyone else had this problem? Also, a quick Mercury question from a novice at sailing and outboards. While running, my 9.9 has the steady stream of water coming out below the cowl. There is also a small stream of water coming out the front of the drive about halfway between the engine and the prop. Is this normal? Thanks, George Morgan S/V Knotty Lady 1986 -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com Wed Aug 19 20:58:25 2020 From: chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com (Chris Geankoplis) Date: Wed, 19 Aug 2020 20:58:25 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] A place to dock in Baltimore or Annapolis In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi Reuben, Took a way too long nap (recovering from the 19 hour drive yesterday ) and woke up a short time ago. All right if I call you tomorrow at a more reasonable time? You know, (9:00 is cruisers midnight). Chris Geankoplis On Wed, Aug 19, 2020 at 11:44 AM Reuben Mezrich wrote: > Chris > I've been lurking on this list for a while and have been talking (via > email) with Stan about getting a Recycled Rhodes 22 to replace the Island > Packet 380 that I recently sold.I'm hopeful that I'll be the proud owner of > a Rhodes 22 by November - Stan willing. > I had kept my boat in Harborview Marina in Baltimore's Inner Harbor for the > past 18 years and can recommend it to be well maintained with a good staff > and friendly boaters (about 1/2 sail and 1/2 motor).There are about 100 > slips but at least a1/3 are empty (which is the case for all of the marinas > in the inner harbor. > As it turns out I paid for my slip for the year - through next march - as I > didn't know how fast I'd be able to sell my Island Packet. It's empty and I > expect we could talk the Marina into letting you have that slip for a month > since I've already paid for it (and they don't give refunds). Of course I > wouldn't expect payment from you although I would ask if I could watch - > from a safe social distance - as I watch you work on the boat....I expect > I'd learn a lot about the boat I'll get in the fall. > --Reuben > Reuben Mezrich > Pelican Cove in Sarasota and Inner Harbor in Baltimore > Cell: 410-499-8922 > > > On Wed, Aug 19, 2020 at 10:56 AM Chris Geankoplis < > chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com> > wrote: > > > Chris G here. We are back in Md. and will be looking for someplace to > keep > > the little red Rhodes for the month of September. Does any of you > > Chesapeake sailors have some suggestions ? > > Chris Geankoplis > > Enosis > > > From retiredtoby at gmail.com Wed Aug 19 21:02:43 2020 From: retiredtoby at gmail.com (Cary Tolbert) Date: Wed, 19 Aug 2020 21:02:43 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Strange Electrical Problem In-Reply-To: <1597884691752-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1597884691752-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: George, does your motor have a connection to flush the motor? If so that connection could cause the extra flow of water Tracking electrical connections is up there with trying to find water leaks Best of luck. Cary Tolbert S/V WHISPER '86 On Wed, Aug 19, 2020, 8:51 PM Gmorganflier wrote: > This has happened twice on my boat. > > For seemingly no reason, the electric starter on my Mercury 9.9 and the > motor for the engine lift will stop working. Using my volt meter, the start > battery is at 12.95v. Tracing the battery cables to the Laz, the voltage at > the terminal block where the battery cables, the outboard?s electric cables > and the lift motor cables all connect is also 12.95v. The voltage > downstream > of the lift motor fuse is 12.95. The fuse on the outboard is not blown. The > wing nuts on the terminal block are tight. When I push the switch for the > motor lift, there is no draw...voltage steady at 12.95v. > > This has me scratching my head...what the heck is going on. Last time this > happened, I took all the cables off the laz terminal block. They looked > clean with no corrosion and when I reattached them, everything worked. I > haven?t tried doing that this time. > > Has anyone else had this problem? > > Also, a quick Mercury question from a novice at sailing and outboards. > While > running, my 9.9 has the steady stream of water coming out below the cowl. > There is also a small stream of water coming out the front of the drive > about halfway between the engine and the prop. Is this normal? > > Thanks, > George Morgan > S/V Knotty Lady 1986 > > > > > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > From snstaum at gmail.com Wed Aug 19 23:05:43 2020 From: snstaum at gmail.com (Stephen Staum) Date: Wed, 19 Aug 2020 23:05:43 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Strange Electrical Problem In-Reply-To: <1597884691752-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1597884691752-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: I had an old 6 Volt VW bus years ago and the starter solenoid would stick sometimes. I would crawl underneath and smack it with a hammer and it would start immediately. Could be a sticking solenoid. Or you could just pull the start cord and forget about the problem. *Stephen Staum* *s/v Carol Lee 2* *Needham, MA* On Wed, Aug 19, 2020 at 8:51 PM Gmorganflier wrote: > This has happened twice on my boat. > > For seemingly no reason, the electric starter on my Mercury 9.9 and the > motor for the engine lift will stop working. Using my volt meter, the start > battery is at 12.95v. Tracing the battery cables to the Laz, the voltage at > the terminal block where the battery cables, the outboard?s electric cables > and the lift motor cables all connect is also 12.95v. The voltage > downstream > of the lift motor fuse is 12.95. The fuse on the outboard is not blown. The > wing nuts on the terminal block are tight. When I push the switch for the > motor lift, there is no draw...voltage steady at 12.95v. > > This has me scratching my head...what the heck is going on. Last time this > happened, I took all the cables off the laz terminal block. They looked > clean with no corrosion and when I reattached them, everything worked. I > haven?t tried doing that this time. > > Has anyone else had this problem? > > Also, a quick Mercury question from a novice at sailing and outboards. > While > running, my 9.9 has the steady stream of water coming out below the cowl. > There is also a small stream of water coming out the front of the drive > about halfway between the engine and the prop. Is this normal? > > Thanks, > George Morgan > S/V Knotty Lady 1986 > > > > > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > From mark at whipplefamily.com Wed Aug 19 23:27:37 2020 From: mark at whipplefamily.com (Mark Whipple) Date: Wed, 19 Aug 2020 23:27:37 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Strange Electrical Problem In-Reply-To: <1597884691752-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1597884691752-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: You might check for a faulty connection with the terminals pressed on the end of the wires running between the battery & the terminal block. I had a similar problem with my VHF one time and it ended up being a bad connection that was limiting the current but not the voltage. At least that's how it appeared. Mark -- Boston, MA 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* 1987 Nimble 30 *For Sale* 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* On Wed, Aug 19, 2020 at 8:51 PM Gmorganflier wrote: > This has happened twice on my boat. > > For seemingly no reason, the electric starter on my Mercury 9.9 and the > motor for the engine lift will stop working. Using my volt meter, the start > battery is at 12.95v. Tracing the battery cables to the Laz, the voltage at > the terminal block where the battery cables, the outboard?s electric cables > and the lift motor cables all connect is also 12.95v. The voltage > downstream > of the lift motor fuse is 12.95. The fuse on the outboard is not blown. The > wing nuts on the terminal block are tight. When I push the switch for the > motor lift, there is no draw...voltage steady at 12.95v. > > This has me scratching my head...what the heck is going on. Last time this > happened, I took all the cables off the laz terminal block. They looked > clean with no corrosion and when I reattached them, everything worked. I > haven?t tried doing that this time. > > Has anyone else had this problem? > > Also, a quick Mercury question from a novice at sailing and outboards. > While > running, my 9.9 has the steady stream of water coming out below the cowl. > There is also a small stream of water coming out the front of the drive > about halfway between the engine and the prop. Is this normal? > > Thanks, > George Morgan > S/V Knotty Lady 1986 > > > > > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > -- Boston, MA 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* 1986 Nimble 30 *For Sale* 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* From reuben.mezrich at gmail.com Thu Aug 20 06:32:17 2020 From: reuben.mezrich at gmail.com (Reuben Mezrich) Date: Thu, 20 Aug 2020 06:32:17 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] A place to dock in Baltimore or Annapolis In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I understand completely (which is why I'm retrieving this email early in the morning)...my number is 410-499-8922 --Reuben Reuben Mezrich Pelican Cove in Sarasota and Inner Harbor in Baltimore Cell: 410-499-8922 On Wed, Aug 19, 2020 at 8:58 PM Chris Geankoplis wrote: > Hi Reuben, > Took a way too long nap (recovering from the 19 hour drive > yesterday ) and woke up a short time ago. All right if I call you tomorrow > at a more reasonable time? You know, (9:00 is cruisers midnight). > Chris Geankoplis > > On Wed, Aug 19, 2020 at 11:44 AM Reuben Mezrich > wrote: > > > Chris > > I've been lurking on this list for a while and have been talking (via > > email) with Stan about getting a Recycled Rhodes 22 to replace the Island > > Packet 380 that I recently sold.I'm hopeful that I'll be the proud owner > of > > a Rhodes 22 by November - Stan willing. > > I had kept my boat in Harborview Marina in Baltimore's Inner Harbor for > the > > past 18 years and can recommend it to be well maintained with a good > staff > > and friendly boaters (about 1/2 sail and 1/2 motor).There are about 100 > > slips but at least a1/3 are empty (which is the case for all of the > marinas > > in the inner harbor. > > As it turns out I paid for my slip for the year - through next march - > as I > > didn't know how fast I'd be able to sell my Island Packet. It's empty > and I > > expect we could talk the Marina into letting you have that slip for a > month > > since I've already paid for it (and they don't give refunds). Of course I > > wouldn't expect payment from you although I would ask if I could watch - > > from a safe social distance - as I watch you work on the boat....I expect > > I'd learn a lot about the boat I'll get in the fall. > > --Reuben > > Reuben Mezrich > > Pelican Cove in Sarasota and Inner Harbor in Baltimore > > Cell: 410-499-8922 > > > > > > On Wed, Aug 19, 2020 at 10:56 AM Chris Geankoplis < > > chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com> > > wrote: > > > > > Chris G here. We are back in Md. and will be looking for someplace to > > keep > > > the little red Rhodes for the month of September. Does any of you > > > Chesapeake sailors have some suggestions ? > > > Chris Geankoplis > > > Enosis > > > > > > From keywestseccorp at verizon.net Thu Aug 20 08:28:03 2020 From: keywestseccorp at verizon.net (Mark West) Date: Thu, 20 Aug 2020 12:28:03 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Strange Electrical Problem In-Reply-To: <1597884691752-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1597884691752-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <473265834.3675038.1597926483285@mail.yahoo.com> the motor lift isGB? style OR BUILT IN TO THE MERC -----Original Message----- From: Gmorganflier To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Sent: Wed, Aug 19, 2020 8:51 pm Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Strange Electrical Problem This has happened twice on my boat. For seemingly no reason, the electric starter on my Mercury 9.9 and the motor for the engine lift will stop working. Using my volt meter, the start battery is at 12.95v. Tracing the battery cables to the Laz, the voltage at the terminal block where the battery cables, the outboard?s electric cables and the lift motor cables all connect is also 12.95v. The voltage downstream of the lift motor fuse is 12.95. The fuse on the outboard is not blown. The wing nuts on the terminal block are tight. When I push the switch for the motor lift, there is no draw...voltage steady at 12.95v. This has me scratching my head...what the heck is going on. Last time this happened, I took all the cables off the laz terminal block. They looked clean with no corrosion and when I reattached them, everything worked. I haven?t tried doing that this time. Has anyone else had this problem? Also, a quick Mercury question from a novice at sailing and outboards. While running, my 9.9 has the steady stream of water coming out below the cowl. There is also a small stream of water coming out the front of the drive about halfway between the engine and the prop. Is this normal? Thanks, George Morgan S/V Knotty Lady 1986 -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From rlowe at vt.edu Thu Aug 20 09:16:56 2020 From: rlowe at vt.edu (Lowe, Rob) Date: Thu, 20 Aug 2020 13:16:56 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Strange Electrical Problem In-Reply-To: <473265834.3675038.1597926483285@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1597884691752-0.post@n5.nabble.com>, <473265834.3675038.1597926483285@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: George, Almost sounds like the switch for the motor lift is acting up. If power is flowing to the motor lift motor, the voltage should drop. Can you get to both sets of terminals for the switch and check things there? You should have a set of inlet and outlet wires. You will see no voltage at the outlet wires until the switch is engaged. Where is the water coming from? Sounds like it's coming from the 'pee hole', which is located at one of the aft corners of the motor. That's the motor cooling water and that's normal. If a motor is not peeing, you should not use it as you have no cooling water. The other water sounds like a leak in the cooling water system somewhere. One place to look is to pull the motor cover off (don't drop it! don't ask). Check the tubing leading from the pee hole back to the motor. Maybe some of that tubing is loose or cracked. - rob ________________________________ From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of Mark West via Rhodes22-list Sent: Thursday, August 20, 2020 8:28 AM To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Strange Electrical Problem the motor lift isGB style OR BUILT IN TO THE MERC -----Original Message----- From: Gmorganflier To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Sent: Wed, Aug 19, 2020 8:51 pm Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Strange Electrical Problem This has happened twice on my boat. For seemingly no reason, the electric starter on my Mercury 9.9 and the motor for the engine lift will stop working. Using my volt meter, the start battery is at 12.95v. Tracing the battery cables to the Laz, the voltage at the terminal block where the battery cables, the outboard?s electric cables and the lift motor cables all connect is also 12.95v. The voltage downstream of the lift motor fuse is 12.95. The fuse on the outboard is not blown. The wing nuts on the terminal block are tight. When I push the switch for the motor lift, there is no draw...voltage steady at 12.95v. This has me scratching my head...what the heck is going on. Last time this happened, I took all the cables off the laz terminal block. They looked clean with no corrosion and when I reattached them, everything worked. I haven?t tried doing that this time. Has anyone else had this problem? Also, a quick Mercury question from a novice at sailing and outboards. While running, my 9.9 has the steady stream of water coming out below the cowl. There is also a small stream of water coming out the front of the drive about halfway between the engine and the prop. Is this normal? Thanks, George Morgan S/V Knotty Lady 1986 -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From gmorgan.flier at gmail.com Thu Aug 20 10:36:51 2020 From: gmorgan.flier at gmail.com (Gmorganflier) Date: Thu, 20 Aug 2020 07:36:51 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Strange Electrical Problem In-Reply-To: <1597884691752-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1597884691752-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <1597934211066-0.post@n5.nabble.com> I appreciate everyone?s reply. Once again I disconnected all cables to the battery and the terminal block in the laz. All wing nuts were tight and none of the connectors looked corroded. I went ahead and sanded all the connectors, hooked everything back up and sprayed all terminals with battery terminal protector. EVERYTHING WORKS! Crazy problem since everything looked as it should...fingers crossed it doesn?t happen again. George Morgan S/V Knotty Lady -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com Thu Aug 20 10:54:26 2020 From: chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com (Chris Geankoplis) Date: Thu, 20 Aug 2020 10:54:26 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] A place to dock in Baltimore or Annapolis In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: On Wed, 19 Aug 2020 at 11:44, Reuben Mezrich wrote: > Chris > I've been lurking on this list for a while and have been talking (via > email) with Stan about getting a Recycled Rhodes 22 to replace the Island > Packet 380 that I recently sold.I'm hopeful that I'll be the proud owner of > a Rhodes 22 by November - Stan willing. > I had kept my boat in Harborview Marina in Baltimore's Inner Harbor for the > past 18 years and can recommend it to be well maintained with a good staff > and friendly boaters (about 1/2 sail and 1/2 motor).There are about 100 > slips but at least a1/3 are empty (which is the case for all of the marinas > in the inner harbor. > As it turns out I paid for my slip for the year - through next march - as I > didn't know how fast I'd be able to sell my Island Packet. It's empty and I > expect we could talk the Marina into letting you have that slip for a month > since I've already paid for it (and they don't give refunds). Of course I > wouldn't expect payment from you although I would ask if I could watch - > from a safe social distance - as I watch you work on the boat....I expect > I'd learn a lot about the boat I'll get in the fall. > --Reuben > Reuben Mezrich > Pelican Cove in Sarasota and Inner Harbor in Baltimore > Cell: 410-499-8922 > > > On Wed, Aug 19, 2020 at 10:56 AM Chris Geankoplis < > chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com> > wrote: > > > Chris G here. We are back in Md. and will be looking for someplace to > keep > > the little red Rhodes for the month of September. Does any of you > > Chesapeake sailors have some suggestions ? > > Chris Geankoplis > > Enosis > > > From michael.4591 at gmail.com Thu Aug 20 13:26:11 2020 From: michael.4591 at gmail.com (Michael Corley) Date: Thu, 20 Aug 2020 13:26:11 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] A place to dock in Baltimore or Annapolis In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Don't think you can beat a slip in the inner harbor. If it does not work out I would recommend Maryland Marina https://marylandmarina.net/ Trailer sailed out of Maryland Marina years ago. They offer slip and dry storage also. If you visit the Southern Chesapeake there are numerous marinas and anchorages. Mike Corley Hampton Roads On Thu, Aug 20, 2020 at 10:54 AM Chris Geankoplis wrote: > On Wed, 19 Aug 2020 at 11:44, Reuben Mezrich > wrote: > > > Chris > > I've been lurking on this list for a while and have been talking (via > > email) with Stan about getting a Recycled Rhodes 22 to replace the Island > > Packet 380 that I recently sold.I'm hopeful that I'll be the proud owner > of > > a Rhodes 22 by November - Stan willing. > > I had kept my boat in Harborview Marina in Baltimore's Inner Harbor for > the > > past 18 years and can recommend it to be well maintained with a good > staff > > and friendly boaters (about 1/2 sail and 1/2 motor).There are about 100 > > slips but at least a1/3 are empty (which is the case for all of the > marinas > > in the inner harbor. > > As it turns out I paid for my slip for the year - through next march - > as I > > didn't know how fast I'd be able to sell my Island Packet. It's empty > and I > > expect we could talk the Marina into letting you have that slip for a > month > > since I've already paid for it (and they don't give refunds). Of course I > > wouldn't expect payment from you although I would ask if I could watch - > > from a safe social distance - as I watch you work on the boat....I expect > > I'd learn a lot about the boat I'll get in the fall. > > --Reuben > > Reuben Mezrich > > Pelican Cove in Sarasota and Inner Harbor in Baltimore > > Cell: 410-499-8922 > > > > > > On Wed, Aug 19, 2020 at 10:56 AM Chris Geankoplis < > > chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com> > > wrote: > > > > > Chris G here. We are back in Md. and will be looking for someplace to > > keep > > > the little red Rhodes for the month of September. Does any of you > > > Chesapeake sailors have some suggestions ? > > > Chris Geankoplis > > > Enosis > > > > > > From chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com Thu Aug 20 14:23:52 2020 From: chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com (Chris Geankoplis) Date: Thu, 20 Aug 2020 14:23:52 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] A place to dock in Baltimore or Annapolis In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Thanks Mike, I?ll keep that in mind. Chris Geankoplis Enosis On Thu, 20 Aug 2020 at 13:26, Michael Corley wrote: > Don't think you can beat a slip in the inner harbor. If it does not work > out I would recommend Maryland Marina https://marylandmarina.net/ > Trailer sailed out of Maryland Marina years ago. They offer slip and dry > storage also. > If you visit the Southern Chesapeake there are numerous marinas and > anchorages. > > Mike Corley > Hampton Roads > > On Thu, Aug 20, 2020 at 10:54 AM Chris Geankoplis < > chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com> > wrote: > > > On Wed, 19 Aug 2020 at 11:44, Reuben Mezrich > > wrote: > > > > > Chris > > > I've been lurking on this list for a while and have been talking (via > > > email) with Stan about getting a Recycled Rhodes 22 to replace the > Island > > > Packet 380 that I recently sold.I'm hopeful that I'll be the proud > owner > > of > > > a Rhodes 22 by November - Stan willing. > > > I had kept my boat in Harborview Marina in Baltimore's Inner Harbor for > > the > > > past 18 years and can recommend it to be well maintained with a good > > staff > > > and friendly boaters (about 1/2 sail and 1/2 motor).There are about 100 > > > slips but at least a1/3 are empty (which is the case for all of the > > marinas > > > in the inner harbor. > > > As it turns out I paid for my slip for the year - through next march - > > as I > > > didn't know how fast I'd be able to sell my Island Packet. It's empty > > and I > > > expect we could talk the Marina into letting you have that slip for a > > month > > > since I've already paid for it (and they don't give refunds). Of > course I > > > wouldn't expect payment from you although I would ask if I could watch > - > > > from a safe social distance - as I watch you work on the boat....I > expect > > > I'd learn a lot about the boat I'll get in the fall. > > > --Reuben > > > Reuben Mezrich > > > Pelican Cove in Sarasota and Inner Harbor in Baltimore > > > Cell: 410-499-8922 > > > > > > > > > On Wed, Aug 19, 2020 at 10:56 AM Chris Geankoplis < > > > chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com> > > > wrote: > > > > > > > Chris G here. We are back in Md. and will be looking for someplace to > > > keep > > > > the little red Rhodes for the month of September. Does any of you > > > > Chesapeake sailors have some suggestions ? > > > > Chris Geankoplis > > > > Enosis > > > > > > > > > > From tavares0947 at gmail.com Thu Aug 20 14:33:24 2020 From: tavares0947 at gmail.com (Todd Tavares) Date: Thu, 20 Aug 2020 14:33:24 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Strange Electrical Problem In-Reply-To: <1597934211066-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1597884691752-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1597934211066-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: I suggest you re-do the terminal fitting on the wire coming from the battery feeding the stud terminal in the laz. Check for corrosion between the strands. Look for dark brown dusty colored wire strands too. This should be pre-tinned boat wire though. This may not be the problem but its cheap and gives you a chance to see if there's anything going on under the insulation. The act of manipulating and bending the ends of the wires could be causing enough internal motion that its cleaning the strand surfaces where they contact each other just enough to freshen the internal contact. Just a thought. Todd T. tavares0947 at gmail.com On Thu, Aug 20, 2020, 10:36 AM Gmorganflier wrote: > I appreciate everyone?s reply. > > Once again I disconnected all cables to the battery and the terminal block > in the laz. All wing nuts were tight and none of the connectors looked > corroded. I went ahead and sanded all the connectors, hooked everything > back > up and sprayed all terminals with battery terminal protector. > > EVERYTHING WORKS! > > Crazy problem since everything looked as it should...fingers crossed it > doesn?t happen again. > > George Morgan > S/V Knotty Lady > > > > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > From Tejas.Hill at outlook.com Thu Aug 20 16:11:16 2020 From: Tejas.Hill at outlook.com (Tex Hill) Date: Thu, 20 Aug 2020 15:11:16 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Ideas to sell our 1986 Rhodes 22 ..Asking $4, 000.00 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Tom, Thanks, my wife agrees with you, after all it is her boat. (: Tex Sent from my iPad > On Aug 18, 2020, at 4:09 PM, Tom Van Heule wrote: > > ?You should ask for more. Sounds like it's reasonable, but still a project. > I'm not saying add a zero, but a sailable r22 + trailer+ 2k outboard should > be worth more no matter? > >> On Tue, Aug 18, 2020, 3:57 PM Tex Hill wrote: >> >> Cary, >> Thank you. Yes $ 4,000.00 >> Will check on those sites. >> Tex >> >> >> Sent from my iPad >> >>>> On Aug 18, 2020, at 3:53 PM, Cary Tolbert wrote: >>> >>> ?Texas. Did you include the price? >>> Sailboat listing, and Texas sailboats are 2 of the more common sites. I >>> think they are free to list, you pay when the boat is sold >>> Cary Tolbert >>> S/V Whisper '86 >>> >>>> On Tue, Aug 18, 2020, 4:47 PM Tex Hill wrote: >>>> >>>> Need to sell our 1986 Rhodes 22 with Rhodes Uni-Matic trailer (15? >> wheels) >>>> that we purchased from Elton in 1996. >>>> I don?t know what is standard equipment these days, but some of the >>>> equipment that Elton has on the bill of sale list such things as IMF >>>> innermost furling main, 175% Genoa, furling and reefing, exclusive R- 22 >>>> 6:1 outboard motor lift, aft cabin and cabin top grab rails,2 winches,2 >>>> Genoa tracks, stern ladder, docking cleats, interior and cockpit >> cushions, >>>> mast hoist system, bow and stern pulpits , etc...........probably >> similar >>>> equipment on all. >>>> We purchased a new 8 hp Mercury long shaft motor when we bought the >> boat. >>>> It has low hours.. maybe 100 hours at most, We also purchased the >> enclosure >>>> that fits over the pop top which encloses the galley/salon area with >> stand >>>> up room for my 6-4? height, looks like a pilot house. >>>> Needs some work for scratches and dings, and replace the galley area, >> but >>>> is sailable as is. I removed the galley that was a little worn but poor >>>> health prohibits me from finishing it. Still have the original galley >> in my >>>> shop which could be reinstalled or new galley which was my intention. >>>> Any ideas on how to sell it would be helpful. Health problems are >> forcing >>>> us to sell it and our PDQ 36 LRC catamaran. Looks like land cruising >> might >>>> be in our future. >>>> Thank you, >>>> Tex Hill >>>> >>>> Sent from my iPad >> From gmorgan.flier at gmail.com Thu Aug 20 20:11:30 2020 From: gmorgan.flier at gmail.com (Gmorganflier) Date: Thu, 20 Aug 2020 17:11:30 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Strange Electrical Problem In-Reply-To: References: <1597884691752-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1597934211066-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <1597968690145-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Todd, Thanks for that suggestion...I may redo the leads to eliminate them as the source of this problem. George Morgan -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From gstewart8 at cogeco.ca Fri Aug 21 01:56:52 2020 From: gstewart8 at cogeco.ca (Graham Stewart) Date: Fri, 21 Aug 2020 01:56:52 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Strange Electrical Problem In-Reply-To: <1597968690145-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1597884691752-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1597934211066-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1597968690145-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <01ba01d6777f$dfc0ba30$9f422e90$@ca> Might someone explain how a current would show expected voltage (ie, 120 volts) but low current? Why would that occur and how would you test for that? How would you know what the current should be? Thanks, Graham Stewart Agile, Rodes 22, 1976 Kingston Ontario -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Gmorganflier Sent: Thursday, August 20, 2020 8:12 PM To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Strange Electrical Problem Todd, Thanks for that suggestion...I may redo the leads to eliminate them as the source of this problem. George Morgan -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From rlowe at vt.edu Fri Aug 21 08:48:12 2020 From: rlowe at vt.edu (Lowe, Rob) Date: Fri, 21 Aug 2020 12:48:12 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Strange Electrical Problem In-Reply-To: <01ba01d6777f$dfc0ba30$9f422e90$@ca> References: <1597884691752-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1597934211066-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1597968690145-0.post@n5.nabble.com>,<01ba01d6777f$dfc0ba30$9f422e90$@ca> Message-ID: Graham, Low current would be a result of a high load (high resistance). Basic electricity is V=IR where V is the voltage (in volts), I is the current (amps) and R is the resistance (ohms). Of the three, voltage is the easiest to measure if you have a volt meter. Rearrange the equation for current. I = V/R. If you have low or no current for a given voltage you have high resistance (open circuit, blown fuse, corroded connection, bad motor, etc.). Current is more difficult to test for. In a DC circuit you need to insert your meter into the circuit. Better to measure the voltage of the source, measure the resistance of the load (power off, circuit open) and compute the current. Rob ________________________________ From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of Graham Stewart Sent: Friday, August 21, 2020 1:56 AM To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Strange Electrical Problem Might someone explain how a current would show expected voltage (ie, 120 volts) but low current? Why would that occur and how would you test for that? How would you know what the current should be? Thanks, Graham Stewart Agile, Rodes 22, 1976 Kingston Ontario -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Gmorganflier Sent: Thursday, August 20, 2020 8:12 PM To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Strange Electrical Problem Todd, Thanks for that suggestion...I may redo the leads to eliminate them as the source of this problem. George Morgan -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From hnw555 at gmail.com Fri Aug 21 08:58:43 2020 From: hnw555 at gmail.com (Hank) Date: Fri, 21 Aug 2020 08:58:43 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Strange Electrical Problem In-Reply-To: <01ba01d6777f$dfc0ba30$9f422e90$@ca> References: <1597884691752-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1597934211066-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1597968690145-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <01ba01d6777f$dfc0ba30$9f422e90$@ca> Message-ID: Think of it like water flowing through two hoses, one with a 1" diameter and one with a 5" diameter. While they both have water flowing through them (voltage), the current is much greater in the larger hose. This is why in electrical systems the wires to your hoist and starter are usually thicker than the wires to your radio. The hoist and starter need more current than the radio. Same voltage, different current. Hank On Fri, Aug 21, 2020 at 1:56 AM Graham Stewart wrote: > Might someone explain how a current would show expected voltage (ie, 120 > volts) but low current? Why would that occur and how would you test for > that? How would you know what the current should be? > > Thanks, > > Graham Stewart > Agile, Rodes 22, 1976 > Kingston Ontario > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf > Of > Gmorganflier > Sent: Thursday, August 20, 2020 8:12 PM > To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Strange Electrical Problem > > Todd, > > Thanks for that suggestion...I may redo the leads to eliminate them as the > source of this problem. > > George Morgan > > > > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > > From keywestseccorp at verizon.net Fri Aug 21 09:09:07 2020 From: keywestseccorp at verizon.net (Mark West) Date: Fri, 21 Aug 2020 13:09:07 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Strange Electrical Problem In-Reply-To: <01ba01d6777f$dfc0ba30$9f422e90$@ca> References: <1597884691752-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1597934211066-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1597968690145-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <01ba01d6777f$dfc0ba30$9f422e90$@ca> Message-ID: <1785760224.4122047.1598015347666@mail.yahoo.com> amp meter clamp on or wired in .? ?(v) voltage = (I) current x (R) resistance? ? ? ? ? ? ? if corrosion causing increase in? resistance then the? current must lower? ?for voltage to remain 12v? ? ? ? ? V? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?VI =? -------? ? ? ? ? ?R =? ------------? ? ? ? R? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? I? OK electrons cant get enough of themselves to destination traveling on dirt back rhodes? -----Original Message----- From: Graham Stewart To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' Sent: Fri, Aug 21, 2020 1:56 am Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Strange Electrical Problem Might someone explain how a current would show expected voltage (ie, 120 volts) but low current? Why would that occur and how would you test for that? How would you know what the current should be? Thanks, Graham Stewart Agile, Rodes 22, 1976 Kingston Ontario -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Gmorganflier Sent: Thursday, August 20, 2020 8:12 PM To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Strange Electrical Problem Todd, Thanks for that suggestion...I may redo the leads to eliminate them as the source of this problem. George Morgan -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From rlowe at vt.edu Fri Aug 21 09:27:07 2020 From: rlowe at vt.edu (Lowe, Rob) Date: Fri, 21 Aug 2020 13:27:07 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Strange Electrical Problem In-Reply-To: References: <1597884691752-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1597934211066-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1597968690145-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <01ba01d6777f$dfc0ba30$9f422e90$@ca>, Message-ID: Sorry I'm a civil engineer who uses this analogy all the time to explain electric flow. Hank is correct in that a larger hose will carry more water which is analogous to the current, but this is at the same potential head (water pressure) which is analogous to the voltage. Any restriction in the hose will reduce the flow which is analogous to the resistance. Rob ________________________________ From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of Hank Sent: Friday, August 21, 2020 8:58 AM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Strange Electrical Problem Think of it like water flowing through two hoses, one with a 1" diameter and one with a 5" diameter. While they both have water flowing through them (voltage), the current is much greater in the larger hose. This is why in electrical systems the wires to your hoist and starter are usually thicker than the wires to your radio. The hoist and starter need more current than the radio. Same voltage, different current. Hank On Fri, Aug 21, 2020 at 1:56 AM Graham Stewart wrote: > Might someone explain how a current would show expected voltage (ie, 120 > volts) but low current? Why would that occur and how would you test for > that? How would you know what the current should be? > > Thanks, > > Graham Stewart > Agile, Rodes 22, 1976 > Kingston Ontario > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf > Of > Gmorganflier > Sent: Thursday, August 20, 2020 8:12 PM > To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Strange Electrical Problem > > Todd, > > Thanks for that suggestion...I may redo the leads to eliminate them as the > source of this problem. > > George Morgan > > > > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > > From luis.guzman.ve at gmail.com Fri Aug 21 10:10:00 2020 From: luis.guzman.ve at gmail.com (luis.guzman.ve) Date: Fri, 21 Aug 2020 10:10:00 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Strange Electrical Problem In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <5f3fd5bf.1c69fb81.ee80b.7de6@mx.google.com> Excellent explanation!Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device -------- Original message --------From: "Lowe, Rob" Date: 8/21/20 9:27 AM (GMT-05:00) To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Strange Electrical Problem Sorry I'm a civil engineer who uses this analogy all the time to explain electric flow.? Hank is correct in that a larger hose will carry more water which is analogous to the current, but this is at the same potential head (water pressure) which is analogous to the voltage.? Any restriction in the hose will reduce the flow which is analogous to the resistance.Rob________________________________From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of Hank Sent: Friday, August 21, 2020 8:58 AMTo: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Strange Electrical ProblemThink of it like water flowing through two hoses, one with a 1" diameterand one with a 5" diameter.? While they both have water flowing throughthem (voltage), the current is much greater in the larger hose.? This iswhy in electrical systems the wires to your hoist and starter are usuallythicker than the wires to your radio.? The hoist and starter need morecurrent than the radio.? Same voltage, different current.HankOn Fri, Aug 21, 2020 at 1:56 AM Graham Stewart wrote:> Might someone explain how a current would show expected voltage (ie, 120> volts) but low current? Why would that occur and how would you test for> that? How would you know what the current should be?>> Thanks,>> Graham Stewart> Agile, Rodes 22, 1976> Kingston Ontario>>> -----Original Message-----> From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf> Of> Gmorganflier> Sent: Thursday, August 20, 2020 8:12 PM> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Strange Electrical Problem>> Todd,>> Thanks for that suggestion...I may redo the leads to eliminate them as the> source of this problem.>> George Morgan>>>> --> Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/>> From luis.guzman.ve at gmail.com Fri Aug 21 10:20:39 2020 From: luis.guzman.ve at gmail.com (Luis Guzman) Date: Fri, 21 Aug 2020 10:20:39 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Strange Electrical Problem In-Reply-To: References: <1597884691752-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1597934211066-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1597968690145-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <01ba01d6777f$dfc0ba30$9f422e90$@ca> Message-ID: Let me add to that the wires have a maximum amount of current that they can carry. if you go pass the maximum, the wire will start heating up and eventually will catch on fire. You always want to use a wire that is rated above the maximum current that your circuit will have, the same as breakers. Though you have to take into account the initial load of some circuits, like electrical motors, that will spike up when started. S/V Aquetxali Luis A. Guzm?n II > On Aug 21, 2020, at 9:27 AM, Lowe, Rob wrote: > > Sorry I'm a civil engineer who uses this analogy all the time to explain electric flow. Hank is correct in that a larger hose will carry more water which is analogous to the current, but this is at the same potential head (water pressure) which is analogous to the voltage. Any restriction in the hose will reduce the flow which is analogous to the resistance. > > Rob > > > ________________________________ > From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of Hank > Sent: Friday, August 21, 2020 8:58 AM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Strange Electrical Problem > > Think of it like water flowing through two hoses, one with a 1" diameter > and one with a 5" diameter. While they both have water flowing through > them (voltage), the current is much greater in the larger hose. This is > why in electrical systems the wires to your hoist and starter are usually > thicker than the wires to your radio. The hoist and starter need more > current than the radio. Same voltage, different current. > > Hank > > On Fri, Aug 21, 2020 at 1:56 AM Graham Stewart wrote: > >> Might someone explain how a current would show expected voltage (ie, 120 >> volts) but low current? Why would that occur and how would you test for >> that? How would you know what the current should be? >> >> Thanks, >> >> Graham Stewart >> Agile, Rodes 22, 1976 >> Kingston Ontario >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf >> Of >> Gmorganflier >> Sent: Thursday, August 20, 2020 8:12 PM >> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Strange Electrical Problem >> >> Todd, >> >> Thanks for that suggestion...I may redo the leads to eliminate them as the >> source of this problem. >> >> George Morgan >> >> >> >> -- >> Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ >> >> From tavares0947 at gmail.com Fri Aug 21 11:36:50 2020 From: tavares0947 at gmail.com (Todd Tavares) Date: Fri, 21 Aug 2020 11:36:50 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Ideas to sell our 1986 Rhodes 22 ..Asking $4, 000.00 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Am I reading it right? Is the boat in Texas? Todd T tavares0947 at gmail.com On Thu, Aug 20, 2020, 4:11 PM Tex Hill wrote: > Tom, > Thanks, my wife agrees with you, after all it is her boat. (: > > Tex > > Sent from my iPad > > > On Aug 18, 2020, at 4:09 PM, Tom Van Heule < > tom.vanheule at intrinsicprograms.com> wrote: > > > > ?You should ask for more. Sounds like it's reasonable, but still a > project. > > I'm not saying add a zero, but a sailable r22 + trailer+ 2k outboard > should > > be worth more no matter? > > > >> On Tue, Aug 18, 2020, 3:57 PM Tex Hill wrote: > >> > >> Cary, > >> Thank you. Yes $ 4,000.00 > >> Will check on those sites. > >> Tex > >> > >> > >> Sent from my iPad > >> > >>>> On Aug 18, 2020, at 3:53 PM, Cary Tolbert > wrote: > >>> > >>> ?Texas. Did you include the price? > >>> Sailboat listing, and Texas sailboats are 2 of the more common sites. I > >>> think they are free to list, you pay when the boat is sold > >>> Cary Tolbert > >>> S/V Whisper '86 > >>> > >>>> On Tue, Aug 18, 2020, 4:47 PM Tex Hill > wrote: > >>>> > >>>> Need to sell our 1986 Rhodes 22 with Rhodes Uni-Matic trailer (15? > >> wheels) > >>>> that we purchased from Elton in 1996. > >>>> I don?t know what is standard equipment these days, but some of the > >>>> equipment that Elton has on the bill of sale list such things as IMF > >>>> innermost furling main, 175% Genoa, furling and reefing, exclusive R- > 22 > >>>> 6:1 outboard motor lift, aft cabin and cabin top grab rails,2 > winches,2 > >>>> Genoa tracks, stern ladder, docking cleats, interior and cockpit > >> cushions, > >>>> mast hoist system, bow and stern pulpits , etc...........probably > >> similar > >>>> equipment on all. > >>>> We purchased a new 8 hp Mercury long shaft motor when we bought the > >> boat. > >>>> It has low hours.. maybe 100 hours at most, We also purchased the > >> enclosure > >>>> that fits over the pop top which encloses the galley/salon area with > >> stand > >>>> up room for my 6-4? height, looks like a pilot house. > >>>> Needs some work for scratches and dings, and replace the galley area, > >> but > >>>> is sailable as is. I removed the galley that was a little worn but > poor > >>>> health prohibits me from finishing it. Still have the original galley > >> in my > >>>> shop which could be reinstalled or new galley which was my intention. > >>>> Any ideas on how to sell it would be helpful. Health problems are > >> forcing > >>>> us to sell it and our PDQ 36 LRC catamaran. Looks like land cruising > >> might > >>>> be in our future. > >>>> Thank you, > >>>> Tex Hill > >>>> > >>>> Sent from my iPad > >> > From Tejas.Hill at outlook.com Fri Aug 21 16:34:35 2020 From: Tejas.Hill at outlook.com (Tex Hill) Date: Fri, 21 Aug 2020 15:34:35 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Ideas to sell our 1986 Rhodes 22 ..Asking $4, 000.00 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Boat in Pensacola , FL Asking $ 7,000.00 Sent from my iPad > On Aug 21, 2020, at 10:37 AM, Todd Tavares wrote: > > ?Am I reading it right? > Is the boat in Texas? > > Todd T > > tavares0947 at gmail.com > >> On Thu, Aug 20, 2020, 4:11 PM Tex Hill wrote: >> >> Tom, >> Thanks, my wife agrees with you, after all it is her boat. (: >> >> Tex >> >> Sent from my iPad >> >>> On Aug 18, 2020, at 4:09 PM, Tom Van Heule < >> tom.vanheule at intrinsicprograms.com> wrote: >>> >>> ?You should ask for more. Sounds like it's reasonable, but still a >> project. >>> I'm not saying add a zero, but a sailable r22 + trailer+ 2k outboard >> should >>> be worth more no matter? >>> >>>> On Tue, Aug 18, 2020, 3:57 PM Tex Hill wrote: >>>> >>>> Cary, >>>> Thank you. Yes $ 4,000.00 >>>> Will check on those sites. >>>> Tex >>>> >>>> >>>> Sent from my iPad >>>> >>>>>> On Aug 18, 2020, at 3:53 PM, Cary Tolbert >> wrote: >>>>> >>>>> ?Texas. Did you include the price? >>>>> Sailboat listing, and Texas sailboats are 2 of the more common sites. I >>>>> think they are free to list, you pay when the boat is sold >>>>> Cary Tolbert >>>>> S/V Whisper '86 >>>>> >>>>>> On Tue, Aug 18, 2020, 4:47 PM Tex Hill >> wrote: >>>>>> >>>>>> Need to sell our 1986 Rhodes 22 with Rhodes Uni-Matic trailer (15? >>>> wheels) >>>>>> that we purchased from Elton in 1996. >>>>>> I don?t know what is standard equipment these days, but some of the >>>>>> equipment that Elton has on the bill of sale list such things as IMF >>>>>> innermost furling main, 175% Genoa, furling and reefing, exclusive R- >> 22 >>>>>> 6:1 outboard motor lift, aft cabin and cabin top grab rails,2 >> winches,2 >>>>>> Genoa tracks, stern ladder, docking cleats, interior and cockpit >>>> cushions, >>>>>> mast hoist system, bow and stern pulpits , etc...........probably >>>> similar >>>>>> equipment on all. >>>>>> We purchased a new 8 hp Mercury long shaft motor when we bought the >>>> boat. >>>>>> It has low hours.. maybe 100 hours at most, We also purchased the >>>> enclosure >>>>>> that fits over the pop top which encloses the galley/salon area with >>>> stand >>>>>> up room for my 6-4? height, looks like a pilot house. >>>>>> Needs some work for scratches and dings, and replace the galley area, >>>> but >>>>>> is sailable as is. I removed the galley that was a little worn but >> poor >>>>>> health prohibits me from finishing it. Still have the original galley >>>> in my >>>>>> shop which could be reinstalled or new galley which was my intention. >>>>>> Any ideas on how to sell it would be helpful. Health problems are >>>> forcing >>>>>> us to sell it and our PDQ 36 LRC catamaran. Looks like land cruising >>>> might >>>>>> be in our future. >>>>>> Thank you, >>>>>> Tex Hill >>>>>> >>>>>> Sent from my iPad >>>> >> From jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com Fri Aug 21 23:08:04 2020 From: jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com (Jesse Shumaker) Date: Fri, 21 Aug 2020 22:08:04 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] CB Pennant drain In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi Mark, somehow I missed your reply from before. I removed the wood covering and it looks like mine has a single hose which is pretty straight forward so I think I'll leave that in place and just thread the new line through. See the attached photo for the setup on my boat. What is the length of the CB pennant line that you used? I'll be attempting the CB pennant replacement a week from tomorrow by attaching the new line to the old line and pulling the new line through. I'll be untying (or cutting off) the old line underwater (using SCUBA gear) and tying on the new line with a bowline. I think I'll need to first secure the diamondboard with a line from the stern and perhaps with another line around the beam as well so that when I remove the old pennant, the diamondboard doesn't continue to pivot any further and drop all the way down to vertical. When I'm at my slip, the diamondboard bottom should only be about 18" off the bottom when extended so I could use a bucket to prop it up as well. I'm still thinking through my options... On Thu, Aug 13, 2020 at 9:06 AM Mark Whipple wrote: > Jesse, > > On my boat the drain was behind a teak or oak covering which was attached > to the boat with screws and small angle brackets. I'll try to remember to > take pictures when I reassemble things. It was pretty easy for me to > remove. Sounds like your boat may be a little different. > > Mark > > On Thu, Aug 13, 2020 at 9:31 AM Jesse Shumaker < > jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com> wrote: > > > Mark, thanks for sharing. > > > > On my 1991 R22, it appears that the CB pennant hoses are aft of the cabin > > and forward of the cockpit so they are hidden from view. If I had to > > access that, I assume that I would need to cut out a panel of the > > fiberglass at the aft of the cabin. Has anyone on the list done that? I > > ask because I'm going to be replacing my centerboard pennant at the end > of > > the season. I plan to use a messenger line to accomplish this and plan > to > > leave the existing hoses in place but in case that goes poorly, it would > be > > good to have a backup plan. > > > > Jesse Shumaker > > S/V Zephyr > > > > On Thu, Aug 13, 2020 at 8:21 AM Mark Whipple > > wrote: > > > > > Just in case you wanted to know the rest of the story: > > > > > > Yesterday I finally got around to completing the replacement of drain > on > > > the bridge deck that the centerboard pennant runs through. I have a > 2000 > > > Rhodes 22. > > > > > > It took a little bit of experimentation but I found a 1 1/4" ID hose > fits > > > the upper part of the drain and a 3/4" hose fits on the bottom. I got > a 1 > > > 1/4" to 3/4" adapter to join the two. Add some hose clamps, remember to > > > thread the CB pennant through it all before installing, and then it's > > just > > > getting the lengths right so it can all go together but still be long > > > enough to be clamped. Attached is a couple pics of the finished product > > > along with the monstrosity I removed. What you don't see in the > "before" > > > shot is the completely rusted hose clamps that I had to use a Dremel to > > > remove. The slit in the old hose is also from the removal process. > > > > > > Mark > > > -- > > > Boston, MA > > > > > > 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* > > > 1987 Nimble 30 *For Sale* > > > 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* > > > > > > On Mon, Jun 15, 2020 at 8:10 PM Mark Whipple > > > wrote: > > > > > > > Hi All, > > > > > > > > If this is in the archives somewhere let me know. I've done a little > > > > searching on Nabble and didn't find what I needed. I need to replace > > the > > > > hose that connects the drain the CB/diamondboard pennant runs > through. > > > > > > > > It looks like the OD of the lower section (closer to the CB) is 7/8" > > OD. > > > > The top section where the pennant exits is about 1" ID, so I'm > guessing > > > > it's about 1 1/4" OD. Total possible length looks to be about 10". > The > > > > difference in diameters partially explains the abomination that I > > > removed. > > > > Someone tried to mate two different hoses with clamps and lots of > > > silicone. > > > > > > > > What has worked well for you in replacing this drain hose? I am > > wondering > > > > if I can get a hose that will fit the upper part of the drain, and > then > > > use > > > > a modified section of that same hose to bring the bottom fitting > closer > > > to > > > > 1 1/4". Then I'd put the larger hose over the smaller one, clamping > the > > > > smaller section low and then the larger, overlapping hose as well. > > > > > > > > Thanks > > > > Mark Whipple > > > > Boston, MA > > > > > > > > 2000 R22 Luna Mia > > > > 1987 Nimble 30 (for sale) > > > > 1982 ComPac 16 (for sale) > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > > Name: 20200812_182047.jpg > > > Type: image/jpeg > > > Size: 109027 bytes > > > Desc: not available > > > URL: < > > > > > > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200813/110893e8/attachment.jpg > > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > > Name: 20200812_182100.jpg > > > Type: image/jpeg > > > Size: 267020 bytes > > > Desc: not available > > > URL: < > > > > > > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200813/110893e8/attachment-0001.jpg > > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > > Name: 20200813_082227.jpg > > > Type: image/jpeg > > > Size: 285444 bytes > > > Desc: not available > > > URL: < > > > > > > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200813/110893e8/attachment-0002.jpg > > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > > Name: 20200813_082201.jpg > > > Type: image/jpeg > > > Size: 288970 bytes > > > Desc: not available > > > URL: < > > > > > > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200813/110893e8/attachment-0003.jpg > > > > > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: CBpennantDrainHose.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 97525 bytes Desc: not available URL: From mark at whipplefamily.com Sat Aug 22 13:33:33 2020 From: mark at whipplefamily.com (Mark Whipple) Date: Sat, 22 Aug 2020 13:33:33 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] CB Pennant drain In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi Graham, My project was focused on replacing the hoses connecting the top of the CB housing to the drain on the bridge deck. I didn't need to replace the CB pennant, so unfortunately I can't tell you the length. While you have the covering off, you might just want to look up at the top of that hose. If there is no clamp on it, it could leak. Or if the clamp is rusty now would be the time to replace it. Bear in mind that I struggle with the disease of "might-as-well-itis." My projects often get drawn out because I tell myself: "Well, since I'm doing Task A I might as well do Task B since if I wait until Task A is done Task B will be harder. That type of thinking led to my first "big" boat, a 28' Pearson Triton, being in my driveway for 5 years while I completely renovated it. It started with "I'll just strip and varnish the interior trim" and ended with me grinding and painting all the interior and the deck, cabin and cockpit exterior. Among numerous other projects. I sure learned a lot but I wouldn't take that approach again. I think. Best of luck with the CB pennant replacement. Mark -- Boston, MA 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* 1987 Nimble 30 *For Sale* 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* On Fri, Aug 21, 2020 at 11:08 PM Jesse Shumaker < jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com> wrote: > Hi Mark, somehow I missed your reply from before. I removed the wood > covering and it looks like mine has a single hose which is pretty straight > forward so I think I'll leave that in place and just thread the new line > through. See the attached photo for the setup on my boat. > > What is the length of the CB pennant line that you used? I'll be > attempting the CB pennant replacement a week from tomorrow by attaching the > new line to the old line and pulling the new line through. I'll be untying > (or cutting off) the old line underwater (using SCUBA gear) and tying on > the new line with a bowline. I think I'll need to first secure the > diamondboard with a line from the stern and perhaps with another line > around the beam as well so that when I remove the old pennant, the > diamondboard doesn't continue to pivot any further and drop all the way > down to vertical. When I'm at my slip, the diamondboard bottom should only > be about 18" off the bottom when extended so I could use a bucket to prop > it up as well. I'm still thinking through my options... > > > On Thu, Aug 13, 2020 at 9:06 AM Mark Whipple > wrote: > > > Jesse, > > > > On my boat the drain was behind a teak or oak covering which was attached > > to the boat with screws and small angle brackets. I'll try to remember to > > take pictures when I reassemble things. It was pretty easy for me to > > remove. Sounds like your boat may be a little different. > > > > Mark > > > > On Thu, Aug 13, 2020 at 9:31 AM Jesse Shumaker < > > jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com> wrote: > > > > > Mark, thanks for sharing. > > > > > > On my 1991 R22, it appears that the CB pennant hoses are aft of the > cabin > > > and forward of the cockpit so they are hidden from view. If I had to > > > access that, I assume that I would need to cut out a panel of the > > > fiberglass at the aft of the cabin. Has anyone on the list done > that? I > > > ask because I'm going to be replacing my centerboard pennant at the end > > of > > > the season. I plan to use a messenger line to accomplish this and plan > > to > > > leave the existing hoses in place but in case that goes poorly, it > would > > be > > > good to have a backup plan. > > > > > > Jesse Shumaker > > > S/V Zephyr > > > > > > On Thu, Aug 13, 2020 at 8:21 AM Mark Whipple > > > wrote: > > > > > > > Just in case you wanted to know the rest of the story: > > > > > > > > Yesterday I finally got around to completing the replacement of drain > > on > > > > the bridge deck that the centerboard pennant runs through. I have a > > 2000 > > > > Rhodes 22. > > > > > > > > It took a little bit of experimentation but I found a 1 1/4" ID hose > > fits > > > > the upper part of the drain and a 3/4" hose fits on the bottom. I got > > a 1 > > > > 1/4" to 3/4" adapter to join the two. Add some hose clamps, remember > to > > > > thread the CB pennant through it all before installing, and then it's > > > just > > > > getting the lengths right so it can all go together but still be long > > > > enough to be clamped. Attached is a couple pics of the finished > product > > > > along with the monstrosity I removed. What you don't see in the > > "before" > > > > shot is the completely rusted hose clamps that I had to use a Dremel > to > > > > remove. The slit in the old hose is also from the removal process. > > > > > > > > Mark > > > > -- > > > > Boston, MA > > > > > > > > 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* > > > > 1987 Nimble 30 *For Sale* > > > > 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* > > > > > > > > On Mon, Jun 15, 2020 at 8:10 PM Mark Whipple > > > > > wrote: > > > > > > > > > Hi All, > > > > > > > > > > If this is in the archives somewhere let me know. I've done a > little > > > > > searching on Nabble and didn't find what I needed. I need to > replace > > > the > > > > > hose that connects the drain the CB/diamondboard pennant runs > > through. > > > > > > > > > > It looks like the OD of the lower section (closer to the CB) is > 7/8" > > > OD. > > > > > The top section where the pennant exits is about 1" ID, so I'm > > guessing > > > > > it's about 1 1/4" OD. Total possible length looks to be about 10". > > The > > > > > difference in diameters partially explains the abomination that I > > > > removed. > > > > > Someone tried to mate two different hoses with clamps and lots of > > > > silicone. > > > > > > > > > > What has worked well for you in replacing this drain hose? I am > > > wondering > > > > > if I can get a hose that will fit the upper part of the drain, and > > then > > > > use > > > > > a modified section of that same hose to bring the bottom fitting > > closer > > > > to > > > > > 1 1/4". Then I'd put the larger hose over the smaller one, clamping > > the > > > > > smaller section low and then the larger, overlapping hose as well. > > > > > > > > > > Thanks > > > > > Mark Whipple > > > > > Boston, MA > > > > > > > > > > 2000 R22 Luna Mia > > > > > 1987 Nimble 30 (for sale) > > > > > 1982 ComPac 16 (for sale) > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > > > Name: 20200812_182047.jpg > > > > Type: image/jpeg > > > > Size: 109027 bytes > > > > Desc: not available > > > > URL: < > > > > > > > > > > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200813/110893e8/attachment.jpg > > > > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > > > Name: 20200812_182100.jpg > > > > Type: image/jpeg > > > > Size: 267020 bytes > > > > Desc: not available > > > > URL: < > > > > > > > > > > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200813/110893e8/attachment-0001.jpg > > > > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > > > Name: 20200813_082227.jpg > > > > Type: image/jpeg > > > > Size: 285444 bytes > > > > Desc: not available > > > > URL: < > > > > > > > > > > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200813/110893e8/attachment-0002.jpg > > > > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > > > Name: 20200813_082201.jpg > > > > Type: image/jpeg > > > > Size: 288970 bytes > > > > Desc: not available > > > > URL: < > > > > > > > > > > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200813/110893e8/attachment-0003.jpg > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: CBpennantDrainHose.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 97525 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200821/83c1bc73/attachment.jpg > > > From dwbrad at gmail.com Mon Aug 24 16:50:32 2020 From: dwbrad at gmail.com (David Bradley) Date: Mon, 24 Aug 2020 16:50:32 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer question Message-ID: <0D9881C1-2E30-4CC8-BE51-0A6FE570B849@gmail.com> Hello Rhodies. I hope you?re all having as good a summer as situations allow. Great to be socially distant on the water. I have a quick question that I don?t recall being discussed before. The carpeting on my trailer bunks has worn off. My local mechanic believes that a smooth bare wood surface is actually better for a bottom-painted boat than carpet. Any takers on that suggestion? Thanks, Dave Dave Bradley s/v Sea Cloud Greenwich Cove, CT From mweisner at ebsmed.com Mon Aug 24 17:05:57 2020 From: mweisner at ebsmed.com (Michael D. Weisner) Date: Mon, 24 Aug 2020 17:05:57 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer question In-Reply-To: <0D9881C1-2E30-4CC8-BE51-0A6FE570B849@gmail.com> References: <0D9881C1-2E30-4CC8-BE51-0A6FE570B849@gmail.com> Message-ID: <008701d67a5a$5d8c4f10$18a4ed30$@ebsmed.com> Dave, I would think that a wooden surface is good for the guy who gets paid to paint the bottom. Doug Fir or whatever is used on the bunks is not that soft a wood. The carpet also protects the hull from a carriage bolt that works loose. The sacrificial bottom paint doesn?t need any excuse to be "sacrificed." I have always renewed the bunks with Indoor/Outdoor short nap carpet. Make sure that you use stainless staples. Mike s/v Wind Lass ('91) Nissequogue River, NY I?d rather be sailing :~) -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of David Bradley Sent: Monday, August 24, 2020 4:51 PM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer question Hello Rhodies. I hope you?re all having as good a summer as situations allow. Great to be socially distant on the water. I have a quick question that I don?t recall being discussed before. The carpeting on my trailer bunks has worn off. My local mechanic believes that a smooth bare wood surface is actually better for a bottom-painted boat than carpet. Any takers on that suggestion? Thanks, Dave Dave Bradley s/v Sea Cloud Greenwich Cove, CT= From keywestseccorp at verizon.net Mon Aug 24 17:06:10 2020 From: keywestseccorp at verizon.net (Mark West) Date: Mon, 24 Aug 2020 21:06:10 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer question In-Reply-To: <0D9881C1-2E30-4CC8-BE51-0A6FE570B849@gmail.com> References: <0D9881C1-2E30-4CC8-BE51-0A6FE570B849@gmail.com> Message-ID: <205251751.5118392.1598303170741@mail.yahoo.com> I'll Vote carpet?? -----Original Message----- From: David Bradley To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Sent: Mon, Aug 24, 2020 4:50 pm Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer question Hello Rhodies. I hope you?re all having as good a summer as situations allow. Great to be socially distant on the water. I have a quick question that I don?t recall being discussed before. The carpeting on my trailer bunks has worn off. My local mechanic believes that a smooth bare wood surface is actually better for a bottom-painted boat than carpet. Any takers on that suggestion? Thanks, Dave Dave Bradley s/v Sea Cloud Greenwich Cove, CT From rlowe at vt.edu Mon Aug 24 17:15:05 2020 From: rlowe at vt.edu (Lowe, Rob) Date: Mon, 24 Aug 2020 21:15:05 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer question In-Reply-To: <0D9881C1-2E30-4CC8-BE51-0A6FE570B849@gmail.com> References: <0D9881C1-2E30-4CC8-BE51-0A6FE570B849@gmail.com> Message-ID: Dave, Can't say I've ever seen a trailer w/o carpet on it. I replaced mine with indoor/outdoor carpet when I replaced the bunks. - Rob -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of David Bradley Sent: Monday, August 24, 2020 4:51 PM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer question Hello Rhodies. I hope you?re all having as good a summer as situations allow. Great to be socially distant on the water. I have a quick question that I don?t recall being discussed before. The carpeting on my trailer bunks has worn off. My local mechanic believes that a smooth bare wood surface is actually better for a bottom-painted boat than carpet. Any takers on that suggestion? Thanks, Dave Dave Bradley s/v Sea Cloud Greenwich Cove, CT From peter at sunnybeeches.com Mon Aug 24 18:07:47 2020 From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg) Date: Mon, 24 Aug 2020 18:07:47 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Maine Sailing Anyone? In-Reply-To: <1597574413781-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1596909318869-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1597056346226-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <70104B9D-0819-4814-A1B0-A6437B23D778@sunnybeeches.com> <1597452586742-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <270BDE41-46D8-4D48-AE2C-17DC546BF563@sunnybeeches.com> <841D5CC8-DF53-4A37-9C38-CBE06A48F5BA@sunnybeeches.com> <1597574413781-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <79FE58B9-6467-45F6-B9EA-D936375FBB2E@sunnybeeches.com> I just returned from my week-long cruise in the Penobscot Bay area of Maine. I remember the coast of Maine as being gorgeous, and my memory in this case was spot on. On the question of parking at the Snow Marine Park boat ramp ? I left my truck and tailer there for the week. When I returned, they were un-molested, and un-ticketed. Jeff Smith?s car and trailer were already there when I arrived (I assume, Ford Explorer & R22 trailer with NJ plates), but gone when I returned. Jeff will have to provide his own report, but from my experience, parking a vehicle and trailer at this ramp for a week works just fine. Peter Nyberg Coventry, CT s/v Silverheels (1988/2016) From gramille at tds.net Mon Aug 24 21:18:11 2020 From: gramille at tds.net (gramille) Date: Mon, 24 Aug 2020 18:18:11 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Maine Sailing Anyone? In-Reply-To: <79FE58B9-6467-45F6-B9EA-D936375FBB2E@sunnybeeches.com> References: <1596909318869-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1597056346226-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <70104B9D-0819-4814-A1B0-A6437B23D778@sunnybeeches.com> <1597452586742-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <270BDE41-46D8-4D48-AE2C-17DC546BF563@sunnybeeches.com> <841D5CC8-DF53-4A37-9C38-CBE06A48F5BA@sunnybeeches.com> <1597574413781-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <79FE58B9-6467-45F6-B9EA-D936375FBB2E@sunnybeeches.com> Message-ID: <1598318291215-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Peter , when can we look forward to the videos? Graham s/v 00Sailin -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From peter at sunnybeeches.com Mon Aug 24 21:26:51 2020 From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg) Date: Mon, 24 Aug 2020 21:26:51 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Maine Sailing Anyone? In-Reply-To: <1598318291215-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1596909318869-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1597056346226-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <70104B9D-0819-4814-A1B0-A6437B23D778@sunnybeeches.com> <1597452586742-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <270BDE41-46D8-4D48-AE2C-17DC546BF563@sunnybeeches.com> <841D5CC8-DF53-4A37-9C38-CBE06A48F5BA@sunnybeeches.com> <1597574413781-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <79FE58B9-6467-45F6-B9EA-D936375FBB2E@sunnybeeches.com> <1598318291215-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: They are in the works. It will be a week or two. > On Aug 24, 2020, at 9:18 PM, gramille wrote: > > Peter , when can we look forward to the videos? > Graham > s/v 00Sailin > > > > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From alexis.seigneurin at gmail.com Mon Aug 24 21:44:28 2020 From: alexis.seigneurin at gmail.com (Alexis Seigneurin) Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2020 01:44:28 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer question In-Reply-To: References: <0D9881C1-2E30-4CC8-BE51-0A6FE570B849@gmail.com>, Message-ID: Speaking of bunks, I need to replace a couple on my trailer. I thought they were just pressure treated 2-by pine, but Mike?s message today makes me wonder. What are the recommendations as regards to what type of wood to use for the bunks of a Triad trailer? Thanks, Alexis ________________________________ From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of Lowe, Rob Sent: Monday, August 24, 2020 5:15:05 PM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer question Dave, Can't say I've ever seen a trailer w/o carpet on it. I replaced mine with indoor/outdoor carpet when I replaced the bunks. - Rob -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of David Bradley Sent: Monday, August 24, 2020 4:51 PM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer question Hello Rhodies. I hope you?re all having as good a summer as situations allow. Great to be socially distant on the water. I have a quick question that I don?t recall being discussed before. The carpeting on my trailer bunks has worn off. My local mechanic believes that a smooth bare wood surface is actually better for a bottom-painted boat than carpet. Any takers on that suggestion? Thanks, Dave Dave Bradley s/v Sea Cloud Greenwich Cove, CT From mark at whipplefamily.com Mon Aug 24 21:50:56 2020 From: mark at whipplefamily.com (Mark Whipple) Date: Mon, 24 Aug 2020 21:50:56 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer question In-Reply-To: <0D9881C1-2E30-4CC8-BE51-0A6FE570B849@gmail.com> References: <0D9881C1-2E30-4CC8-BE51-0A6FE570B849@gmail.com> Message-ID: Dave, If you want to get fancy, you can buy material specifically sold as bunk carpet. Go to a site like etrailer.com and search for "bunk board carpet" or "trailer bunk carpet." Mark -- Boston, MA 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* 1987 Nimble 30 *For Sale* 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* On Mon, Aug 24, 2020 at 4:50 PM David Bradley wrote: > Hello Rhodies. I hope you?re all having as good a summer as situations > allow. Great to be socially distant on the water. > > I have a quick question that I don?t recall being discussed before. The > carpeting on my trailer bunks has worn off. My local mechanic believes that > a smooth bare wood surface is actually better for a bottom-painted boat > than carpet. Any takers on that suggestion? > > Thanks, > > Dave > > Dave Bradley > s/v Sea Cloud > Greenwich Cove, CT From chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com Mon Aug 24 23:47:08 2020 From: chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com (Chris Geankoplis) Date: Mon, 24 Aug 2020 23:47:08 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Maine Sailing Anyone? In-Reply-To: References: <1596909318869-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1597056346226-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <70104B9D-0819-4814-A1B0-A6437B23D778@sunnybeeches.com> <1597452586742-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <270BDE41-46D8-4D48-AE2C-17DC546BF563@sunnybeeches.com> <841D5CC8-DF53-4A37-9C38-CBE06A48F5BA@sunnybeeches.com> <1597574413781-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <79FE58B9-6467-45F6-B9EA-D936375FBB2E@sunnybeeches.com> <1598318291215-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: Can?t wait, I need a sailing fix bad. Chris Geankoplis Enosis On Mon, 24 Aug 2020 at 21:27, Peter Nyberg wrote: > They are in the works. It will be a week or two. > > > > On Aug 24, 2020, at 9:18 PM, gramille wrote: > > > > Peter , when can we look forward to the videos? > > Graham > > s/v 00Sailin > > > > > > > > -- > > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > > From dwbrad at gmail.com Tue Aug 25 08:47:15 2020 From: dwbrad at gmail.com (David Bradley) Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2020 08:47:15 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer question In-Reply-To: <008701d67a5a$5d8c4f10$18a4ed30$@ebsmed.com> References: <008701d67a5a$5d8c4f10$18a4ed30$@ebsmed.com> Message-ID: <93CAC415-24AB-4C1E-9742-5BE9B0CAD3F2@gmail.com> Thanks all for the replies and advice. Will go for carpet. Dave > On Aug 24, 2020, at 5:06 PM, Michael D. Weisner wrote: > > ?Dave, > > I would think that a wooden surface is good for the guy who gets paid to paint the bottom. Doug Fir or whatever is used on the bunks is not that soft a wood. The carpet also protects the hull from a carriage bolt that works loose. > > The sacrificial bottom paint doesn?t need any excuse to be "sacrificed." > > I have always renewed the bunks with Indoor/Outdoor short nap carpet. Make sure that you use stainless staples. > > Mike > s/v Wind Lass ('91) > Nissequogue River, NY > I?d rather be sailing :~) > > -----Original Message----- > From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of David Bradley > Sent: Monday, August 24, 2020 4:51 PM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer question > > Hello Rhodies. I hope you?re all having as good a summer as situations allow. Great to be socially distant on the water. > > I have a quick question that I don?t recall being discussed before. The carpeting on my trailer bunks has worn off. My local mechanic believes that a smooth bare wood surface is actually better for a bottom-painted boat than carpet. Any takers on that suggestion? > > Thanks, > > Dave > > Dave Bradley > s/v Sea Cloud > Greenwich Cove, CT= > From rodellner at mac.com Tue Aug 25 09:30:15 2020 From: rodellner at mac.com (Rod Ellner) Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2020 08:30:15 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Maine Sailing Anyone? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4839D9F7-BC47-4911-ABDE-D7226C6811AC@mac.com> Chris Can?t believe that you and Alice haven?t been out. We NEED to read more of THE NEXT GREAT ADVENTURE ?? The Ellners in WI Sent from my iPhone > On Aug 24, 2020, at 10:47 PM, Chris Geankoplis wrote: > > ?Can?t wait, I need a sailing fix bad. > Chris Geankoplis > Enosis > > >> On Mon, 24 Aug 2020 at 21:27, Peter Nyberg wrote: >> >> They are in the works. It will be a week or two. >> >> >>>> On Aug 24, 2020, at 9:18 PM, gramille wrote: >>> >>> Peter , when can we look forward to the videos? >>> Graham >>> s/v 00Sailin >>> >>> >>> >>> -- >>> Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ >> >> From rlowe at vt.edu Tue Aug 25 09:36:43 2020 From: rlowe at vt.edu (Lowe, Rob) Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2020 13:36:43 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer question In-Reply-To: References: <0D9881C1-2E30-4CC8-BE51-0A6FE570B849@gmail.com>, , Message-ID: Not sure what Triad uses, but when I replaced mine I used regular pressure treated wood. - rob ________________________________ From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of Alexis Seigneurin Sent: Monday, August 24, 2020 9:44 PM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer question Speaking of bunks, I need to replace a couple on my trailer. I thought they were just pressure treated 2-by pine, but Mike?s message today makes me wonder. What are the recommendations as regards to what type of wood to use for the bunks of a Triad trailer? Thanks, Alexis ________________________________ From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of Lowe, Rob Sent: Monday, August 24, 2020 5:15:05 PM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer question Dave, Can't say I've ever seen a trailer w/o carpet on it. I replaced mine with indoor/outdoor carpet when I replaced the bunks. - Rob -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of David Bradley Sent: Monday, August 24, 2020 4:51 PM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer question Hello Rhodies. I hope you?re all having as good a summer as situations allow. Great to be socially distant on the water. I have a quick question that I don?t recall being discussed before. The carpeting on my trailer bunks has worn off. My local mechanic believes that a smooth bare wood surface is actually better for a bottom-painted boat than carpet. Any takers on that suggestion? Thanks, Dave Dave Bradley s/v Sea Cloud Greenwich Cove, CT From chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com Tue Aug 25 09:58:21 2020 From: chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com (Chris Geankoplis) Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2020 09:58:21 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Maine Sailing Anyone? In-Reply-To: <4839D9F7-BC47-4911-ABDE-D7226C6811AC@mac.com> References: <4839D9F7-BC47-4911-ABDE-D7226C6811AC@mac.com> Message-ID: Hey Rod I can?t believe it either. Can?t get to Greece since the Greeks have observed our infection rate. Can?t go to the Bahamas during hurricane season. And had to leave the Bahamas early at their request because of Covid. (Can?t blame them). HelpEd my son to buy a 1982 20 foot Ensenada that had been gutted. After 150 hours and less than 20 to go to complete what was now a really beautiful Lyle Hess boat, we had to leave Kansas. They are both teachers and were beginning to meet with students. So just before we left we bought another Rhodes recycled in 2016. It had a bit of hull damage above the waterline, repair should be done in a week. So, no sailing on the Chesapeake, yet. Chris Geankoplis On Tue, 25 Aug 2020 at 09:30, Rod Ellner via Rhodes22-list < rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote: > Chris > > Can?t believe that you and Alice haven?t been out. We NEED to read more > of THE NEXT GREAT ADVENTURE ?? > > The Ellners in WI > > Sent from my iPhone > > > On Aug 24, 2020, at 10:47 PM, Chris Geankoplis < > chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com> wrote: > > > > ?Can?t wait, I need a sailing fix bad. > > Chris Geankoplis > > Enosis > > > > > >> On Mon, 24 Aug 2020 at 21:27, Peter Nyberg > wrote: > >> > >> They are in the works. It will be a week or two. > >> > >> > >>>> On Aug 24, 2020, at 9:18 PM, gramille wrote: > >>> > >>> Peter , when can we look forward to the videos? > >>> Graham > >>> s/v 00Sailin > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> -- > >>> Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > >> > >> > From jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com Tue Aug 25 10:20:20 2020 From: jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com (Jesse Shumaker) Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2020 09:20:20 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Maine Sailing Anyone? In-Reply-To: References: <4839D9F7-BC47-4911-ABDE-D7226C6811AC@mac.com> Message-ID: Chris, do you have any photos to share of the Ensenada 20' restoration? It's always nice to see boats brought back to life. Good luck with your next Rhodes! Jesse Shumaker S/V Zephyr On Tue, Aug 25, 2020 at 8:58 AM Chris Geankoplis wrote: > Hey Rod > I can?t believe it either. Can?t get to Greece since the Greeks have > observed our infection rate. Can?t go to the Bahamas during hurricane > season. And had to leave the Bahamas early at their request because of > Covid. (Can?t blame them). HelpEd my son to buy a 1982 20 foot Ensenada > that had been gutted. After 150 hours and less than 20 to go to complete > what was now a really beautiful Lyle Hess boat, we had to leave Kansas. > They are both teachers and were beginning to meet with students. So just > before we left we bought another Rhodes recycled in 2016. It had a bit of > hull damage above the waterline, repair should be done in a week. So, no > sailing on the Chesapeake, yet. > Chris Geankoplis > > On Tue, 25 Aug 2020 at 09:30, Rod Ellner via Rhodes22-list < > rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote: > > > Chris > > > > Can?t believe that you and Alice haven?t been out. We NEED to read more > > of THE NEXT GREAT ADVENTURE ?? > > > > The Ellners in WI > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > > On Aug 24, 2020, at 10:47 PM, Chris Geankoplis < > > chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com> wrote: > > > > > > ?Can?t wait, I need a sailing fix bad. > > > Chris Geankoplis > > > Enosis > > > > > > > > >> On Mon, 24 Aug 2020 at 21:27, Peter Nyberg > > wrote: > > >> > > >> They are in the works. It will be a week or two. > > >> > > >> > > >>>> On Aug 24, 2020, at 9:18 PM, gramille wrote: > > >>> > > >>> Peter , when can we look forward to the videos? > > >>> Graham > > >>> s/v 00Sailin > > >>> > > >>> > > >>> > > >>> -- > > >>> Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > > >> > > >> > > > From chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com Tue Aug 25 11:47:14 2020 From: chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com (Chris Geankoplis) Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2020 11:47:14 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Maine Sailing Anyone? In-Reply-To: References: <4839D9F7-BC47-4911-ABDE-D7226C6811AC@mac.com> Message-ID: I have a few. It is nothing like Graham?s or a number of other restorations. I?ll post them with short comments when I get a lull in working on the new non-Enosis Rhodes. Thanks for the interest. On Tue, 25 Aug 2020 at 10:20, Jesse Shumaker wrote: > Chris, do you have any photos to share of the Ensenada 20' restoration? > It's always nice to see boats brought back to life. Good luck with your > next Rhodes! > > Jesse Shumaker > S/V Zephyr > > On Tue, Aug 25, 2020 at 8:58 AM Chris Geankoplis < > chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com> > wrote: > > > Hey Rod > > I can?t believe it either. Can?t get to Greece since the Greeks have > > observed our infection rate. Can?t go to the Bahamas during hurricane > > season. And had to leave the Bahamas early at their request because of > > Covid. (Can?t blame them). HelpEd my son to buy a 1982 20 foot Ensenada > > that had been gutted. After 150 hours and less than 20 to go to complete > > what was now a really beautiful Lyle Hess boat, we had to leave Kansas. > > They are both teachers and were beginning to meet with students. So just > > before we left we bought another Rhodes recycled in 2016. It had a bit of > > hull damage above the waterline, repair should be done in a week. So, no > > sailing on the Chesapeake, yet. > > Chris Geankoplis > > > > On Tue, 25 Aug 2020 at 09:30, Rod Ellner via Rhodes22-list < > > rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote: > > > > > Chris > > > > > > Can?t believe that you and Alice haven?t been out. We NEED to read > more > > > of THE NEXT GREAT ADVENTURE ?? > > > > > > The Ellners in WI > > > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > > > > On Aug 24, 2020, at 10:47 PM, Chris Geankoplis < > > > chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com> wrote: > > > > > > > > ?Can?t wait, I need a sailing fix bad. > > > > Chris Geankoplis > > > > Enosis > > > > > > > > > > > >> On Mon, 24 Aug 2020 at 21:27, Peter Nyberg > > > wrote: > > > >> > > > >> They are in the works. It will be a week or two. > > > >> > > > >> > > > >>>> On Aug 24, 2020, at 9:18 PM, gramille wrote: > > > >>> > > > >>> Peter , when can we look forward to the videos? > > > >>> Graham > > > >>> s/v 00Sailin > > > >>> > > > >>> > > > >>> > > > >>> -- > > > >>> Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > > > >> > > > >> > > > > > > From sloopblueheron at gmail.com Tue Aug 25 13:58:52 2020 From: sloopblueheron at gmail.com (Rick Lange) Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2020 13:58:52 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer question In-Reply-To: References: <0D9881C1-2E30-4CC8-BE51-0A6FE570B849@gmail.com> Message-ID: Pressure treated clear fir (minimum knots). Regards, Rick Lange On Tue, Aug 25, 2020 at 9:36 AM Lowe, Rob wrote: > Not sure what Triad uses, but when I replaced mine I used regular pressure > treated wood. - rob > > ________________________________ > From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of > Alexis Seigneurin > Sent: Monday, August 24, 2020 9:44 PM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer question > > Speaking of bunks, I need to replace a couple on my trailer. I thought > they were just pressure treated 2-by pine, but Mike?s message today makes > me wonder. > > What are the recommendations as regards to what type of wood to use for > the bunks of a Triad trailer? > > Thanks, > Alexis > > ________________________________ > From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of > Lowe, Rob > Sent: Monday, August 24, 2020 5:15:05 PM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer question > > Dave, > Can't say I've ever seen a trailer w/o carpet on it. I replaced mine with > indoor/outdoor carpet when I replaced the bunks. - Rob > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of > David Bradley > Sent: Monday, August 24, 2020 4:51 PM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer question > > Hello Rhodies. I hope you?re all having as good a summer as situations > allow. Great to be socially distant on the water. > > I have a quick question that I don?t recall being discussed before. The > carpeting on my trailer bunks has worn off. My local mechanic believes that > a smooth bare wood surface is actually better for a bottom-painted boat > than carpet. Any takers on that suggestion? > > Thanks, > > Dave > > Dave Bradley > s/v Sea Cloud > Greenwich Cove, CT > From jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com Tue Aug 25 15:29:06 2020 From: jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com (Jesse Shumaker) Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2020 14:29:06 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer question In-Reply-To: References: <0D9881C1-2E30-4CC8-BE51-0A6FE570B849@gmail.com> Message-ID: Earlier this summer I used pressure treated wood to replace the bunks on my Triad Trailer. I picked out new boards with the least amount of knots. One of the old bunks had broken around a knot (the boat was not on the trailer at the time) during a test of brake lines that had been replaced. I used carpeting to cover 3 sides of the bunks. The new bunks immediately conform to the hull shape when you load the boat onto the trailer for the first time - perhaps that is obvious since it is a heavy boat but I had wondered about it ahead of time. Jesse Shumaker S/V Zephyr On Mon, Aug 24, 2020 at 8:44 PM Alexis Seigneurin < alexis.seigneurin at gmail.com> wrote: > Speaking of bunks, I need to replace a couple on my trailer. I thought > they were just pressure treated 2-by pine, but Mike?s message today makes > me wonder. > > What are the recommendations as regards to what type of wood to use for > the bunks of a Triad trailer? > > Thanks, > Alexis > > ________________________________ > From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of > Lowe, Rob > Sent: Monday, August 24, 2020 5:15:05 PM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer question > > Dave, > Can't say I've ever seen a trailer w/o carpet on it. I replaced mine with > indoor/outdoor carpet when I replaced the bunks. - Rob > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of > David Bradley > Sent: Monday, August 24, 2020 4:51 PM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer question > > Hello Rhodies. I hope you?re all having as good a summer as situations > allow. Great to be socially distant on the water. > > I have a quick question that I don?t recall being discussed before. The > carpeting on my trailer bunks has worn off. My local mechanic believes that > a smooth bare wood surface is actually better for a bottom-painted boat > than carpet. Any takers on that suggestion? > > Thanks, > > Dave > > Dave Bradley > s/v Sea Cloud > Greenwich Cove, CT > From jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com Tue Aug 25 15:33:36 2020 From: jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com (Jesse Shumaker) Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2020 14:33:36 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer question In-Reply-To: References: <0D9881C1-2E30-4CC8-BE51-0A6FE570B849@gmail.com> Message-ID: Also, you may want to pick up new galvanized bolts, lock washers and nuts while getting new bunks. I figured I might as well replace the hardware while it was exposed before covering it with carpeting. I had to tighten the bolts quite a bit to sink them into the wood and ensure the bolt was below the level of the bunk in order to avoid any contact between the bolt head and the hull. On Tue, Aug 25, 2020 at 2:29 PM Jesse Shumaker < jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com> wrote: > Earlier this summer I used pressure treated wood to replace the bunks on > my Triad Trailer. I picked out new boards with the least amount of knots. > One of the old bunks had broken around a knot (the boat was not on the > trailer at the time) during a test of brake lines that had been replaced. > I used carpeting to cover 3 sides of the bunks. The new bunks immediately > conform to the hull shape when you load the boat onto the trailer for the > first time - perhaps that is obvious since it is a heavy boat but I had > wondered about it ahead of time. > > Jesse Shumaker > S/V Zephyr > > > > > > On Mon, Aug 24, 2020 at 8:44 PM Alexis Seigneurin < > alexis.seigneurin at gmail.com> wrote: > >> Speaking of bunks, I need to replace a couple on my trailer. I thought >> they were just pressure treated 2-by pine, but Mike?s message today makes >> me wonder. >> >> What are the recommendations as regards to what type of wood to use for >> the bunks of a Triad trailer? >> >> Thanks, >> Alexis >> >> ________________________________ >> From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of >> Lowe, Rob >> Sent: Monday, August 24, 2020 5:15:05 PM >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer question >> >> Dave, >> Can't say I've ever seen a trailer w/o carpet on it. I replaced mine >> with indoor/outdoor carpet when I replaced the bunks. - Rob >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of >> David Bradley >> Sent: Monday, August 24, 2020 4:51 PM >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List >> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer question >> >> Hello Rhodies. I hope you?re all having as good a summer as situations >> allow. Great to be socially distant on the water. >> >> I have a quick question that I don?t recall being discussed before. The >> carpeting on my trailer bunks has worn off. My local mechanic believes that >> a smooth bare wood surface is actually better for a bottom-painted boat >> than carpet. Any takers on that suggestion? >> >> Thanks, >> >> Dave >> >> Dave Bradley >> s/v Sea Cloud >> Greenwich Cove, CT >> > From rlowe at vt.edu Tue Aug 25 15:48:58 2020 From: rlowe at vt.edu (Lowe, Rob) Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2020 19:48:58 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer question In-Reply-To: References: <0D9881C1-2E30-4CC8-BE51-0A6FE570B849@gmail.com> , Message-ID: When I replaced my bunks I took straps and tried to pull the new bunks into the hull shape. Not sure it was necessary. As Jesse says the boat will make the wood conform to it's shape. - Rob ________________________________ From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of Jesse Shumaker Sent: Tuesday, August 25, 2020 3:29 PM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer question Earlier this summer I used pressure treated wood to replace the bunks on my Triad Trailer. I picked out new boards with the least amount of knots. One of the old bunks had broken around a knot (the boat was not on the trailer at the time) during a test of brake lines that had been replaced. I used carpeting to cover 3 sides of the bunks. The new bunks immediately conform to the hull shape when you load the boat onto the trailer for the first time - perhaps that is obvious since it is a heavy boat but I had wondered about it ahead of time. Jesse Shumaker S/V Zephyr On Mon, Aug 24, 2020 at 8:44 PM Alexis Seigneurin < alexis.seigneurin at gmail.com> wrote: > Speaking of bunks, I need to replace a couple on my trailer. I thought > they were just pressure treated 2-by pine, but Mike?s message today makes > me wonder. > > What are the recommendations as regards to what type of wood to use for > the bunks of a Triad trailer? > > Thanks, > Alexis > > ________________________________ > From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of > Lowe, Rob > Sent: Monday, August 24, 2020 5:15:05 PM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer question > > Dave, > Can't say I've ever seen a trailer w/o carpet on it. I replaced mine with > indoor/outdoor carpet when I replaced the bunks. - Rob > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of > David Bradley > Sent: Monday, August 24, 2020 4:51 PM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer question > > Hello Rhodies. I hope you?re all having as good a summer as situations > allow. Great to be socially distant on the water. > > I have a quick question that I don?t recall being discussed before. The > carpeting on my trailer bunks has worn off. My local mechanic believes that > a smooth bare wood surface is actually better for a bottom-painted boat > than carpet. Any takers on that suggestion? > > Thanks, > > Dave > > Dave Bradley > s/v Sea Cloud > Greenwich Cove, CT > From rlowe at vt.edu Tue Aug 25 15:50:59 2020 From: rlowe at vt.edu (Lowe, Rob) Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2020 19:50:59 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer question In-Reply-To: References: <0D9881C1-2E30-4CC8-BE51-0A6FE570B849@gmail.com> , Message-ID: Agree with the new hardware too. I countersunk the bolt heads before putting the carpet on to make sure they didn't contact the hull. - Rob ________________________________ From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of Jesse Shumaker Sent: Tuesday, August 25, 2020 3:33 PM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer question Also, you may want to pick up new galvanized bolts, lock washers and nuts while getting new bunks. I figured I might as well replace the hardware while it was exposed before covering it with carpeting. I had to tighten the bolts quite a bit to sink them into the wood and ensure the bolt was below the level of the bunk in order to avoid any contact between the bolt head and the hull. On Tue, Aug 25, 2020 at 2:29 PM Jesse Shumaker < jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com> wrote: > Earlier this summer I used pressure treated wood to replace the bunks on > my Triad Trailer. I picked out new boards with the least amount of knots. > One of the old bunks had broken around a knot (the boat was not on the > trailer at the time) during a test of brake lines that had been replaced. > I used carpeting to cover 3 sides of the bunks. The new bunks immediately > conform to the hull shape when you load the boat onto the trailer for the > first time - perhaps that is obvious since it is a heavy boat but I had > wondered about it ahead of time. > > Jesse Shumaker > S/V Zephyr > > > > > > On Mon, Aug 24, 2020 at 8:44 PM Alexis Seigneurin < > alexis.seigneurin at gmail.com> wrote: > >> Speaking of bunks, I need to replace a couple on my trailer. I thought >> they were just pressure treated 2-by pine, but Mike?s message today makes >> me wonder. >> >> What are the recommendations as regards to what type of wood to use for >> the bunks of a Triad trailer? >> >> Thanks, >> Alexis >> >> ________________________________ >> From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of >> Lowe, Rob >> Sent: Monday, August 24, 2020 5:15:05 PM >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer question >> >> Dave, >> Can't say I've ever seen a trailer w/o carpet on it. I replaced mine >> with indoor/outdoor carpet when I replaced the bunks. - Rob >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of >> David Bradley >> Sent: Monday, August 24, 2020 4:51 PM >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List >> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer question >> >> Hello Rhodies. I hope you?re all having as good a summer as situations >> allow. Great to be socially distant on the water. >> >> I have a quick question that I don?t recall being discussed before. The >> carpeting on my trailer bunks has worn off. My local mechanic believes that >> a smooth bare wood surface is actually better for a bottom-painted boat >> than carpet. Any takers on that suggestion? >> >> Thanks, >> >> Dave >> >> Dave Bradley >> s/v Sea Cloud >> Greenwich Cove, CT >> > From luis.guzman.ve at gmail.com Tue Aug 25 16:16:52 2020 From: luis.guzman.ve at gmail.com (Luis Guzman) Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2020 16:16:52 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer question In-Reply-To: References: <0D9881C1-2E30-4CC8-BE51-0A6FE570B849@gmail.com> Message-ID: <7EED7202-4A29-4DFD-8209-001376C3DA2C@gmail.com> Could I use composite or PVC boards for the bunks? Luis A. Guzm?n II S/V Aquetxali > On Aug 25, 2020, at 1:58 PM, Rick Lange wrote: > > Pressure treated clear fir (minimum knots). > > Regards, > > Rick Lange > > > On Tue, Aug 25, 2020 at 9:36 AM Lowe, Rob wrote: > >> Not sure what Triad uses, but when I replaced mine I used regular pressure >> treated wood. - rob >> >> ________________________________ >> From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of >> Alexis Seigneurin >> Sent: Monday, August 24, 2020 9:44 PM >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer question >> >> Speaking of bunks, I need to replace a couple on my trailer. I thought >> they were just pressure treated 2-by pine, but Mike?s message today makes >> me wonder. >> >> What are the recommendations as regards to what type of wood to use for >> the bunks of a Triad trailer? >> >> Thanks, >> Alexis >> >> ________________________________ >> From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of >> Lowe, Rob >> Sent: Monday, August 24, 2020 5:15:05 PM >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer question >> >> Dave, >> Can't say I've ever seen a trailer w/o carpet on it. I replaced mine with >> indoor/outdoor carpet when I replaced the bunks. - Rob >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of >> David Bradley >> Sent: Monday, August 24, 2020 4:51 PM >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List >> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer question >> >> Hello Rhodies. I hope you?re all having as good a summer as situations >> allow. Great to be socially distant on the water. >> >> I have a quick question that I don?t recall being discussed before. The >> carpeting on my trailer bunks has worn off. My local mechanic believes that >> a smooth bare wood surface is actually better for a bottom-painted boat >> than carpet. Any takers on that suggestion? >> >> Thanks, >> >> Dave >> >> Dave Bradley >> s/v Sea Cloud >> Greenwich Cove, CT >> From keywestseccorp at verizon.net Tue Aug 25 17:08:27 2020 From: keywestseccorp at verizon.net (Mark West) Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2020 21:08:27 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer question In-Reply-To: <7EED7202-4A29-4DFD-8209-001376C3DA2C@gmail.com> References: <0D9881C1-2E30-4CC8-BE51-0A6FE570B849@gmail.com> <7EED7202-4A29-4DFD-8209-001376C3DA2C@gmail.com> Message-ID: <1416938097.5557630.1598389707628@mail.yahoo.com> pvc lumber isn't load barring would not use . I used stainless hardware?? -----Original Message----- From: Luis Guzman To: The Rhodes 22 mail list Sent: Tue, Aug 25, 2020 4:16 pm Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer question Could I use composite or PVC boards for the bunks? Luis A. Guzm?n II S/V Aquetxali > On Aug 25, 2020, at 1:58 PM, Rick Lange wrote: > > Pressure treated clear fir (minimum knots). > > Regards, > > Rick Lange > > > On Tue, Aug 25, 2020 at 9:36 AM Lowe, Rob wrote: > >> Not sure what Triad uses, but when I replaced mine I used regular pressure >> treated wood. - rob >> >> ________________________________ >> From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of >> Alexis Seigneurin >> Sent: Monday, August 24, 2020 9:44 PM >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer question >> >> Speaking of bunks, I need to replace a couple on my trailer. I thought >> they were just pressure treated 2-by pine, but Mike?s message today makes >> me wonder. >> >> What are the recommendations as regards to what type of wood to use for >> the bunks of a Triad trailer? >> >> Thanks, >> Alexis >> >> ________________________________ >> From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of >> Lowe, Rob >> Sent: Monday, August 24, 2020 5:15:05 PM >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer question >> >> Dave, >> Can't say I've ever seen a trailer w/o carpet on it.? I replaced mine with >> indoor/outdoor carpet when I replaced the bunks. - Rob >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of >> David Bradley >> Sent: Monday, August 24, 2020 4:51 PM >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List >> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer question >> >> Hello Rhodies. I hope you?re all having as good a summer as situations >> allow. Great to be socially distant on the water. >> >> I have a quick question that I don?t recall being discussed before. The >> carpeting on my trailer bunks has worn off. My local mechanic believes that >> a smooth bare wood surface is actually better for a bottom-painted boat >> than carpet. Any takers on that suggestion? >> >> Thanks, >> >> Dave >> >> Dave Bradley >> s/v Sea Cloud >> Greenwich Cove, CT >> From tom.vanheule at intrinsicprograms.com Tue Aug 25 18:27:40 2020 From: tom.vanheule at intrinsicprograms.com (Tom Van Heule) Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2020 17:27:40 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer question In-Reply-To: <1416938097.5557630.1598389707628@mail.yahoo.com> References: <0D9881C1-2E30-4CC8-BE51-0A6FE570B849@gmail.com> <7EED7202-4A29-4DFD-8209-001376C3DA2C@gmail.com> <1416938097.5557630.1598389707628@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: It measures larger than dimensional lumber, eg NOT a 2x6, also the carpet is good friction. Maybe bare wood on a fishing boat using bunks opposed to rollers. I was so excited to see this thread, but because I have weight distribution issues.... Best, Tom On Tue, Aug 25, 2020, 4:08 PM Mark West via Rhodes22-list < rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote: > pvc lumber isn't load barring would not use . I used stainless hardware > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Luis Guzman > To: The Rhodes 22 mail list > Sent: Tue, Aug 25, 2020 4:16 pm > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer question > > Could I use composite or PVC boards for the bunks? > > > Luis A. Guzm?n II > > S/V Aquetxali > > > On Aug 25, 2020, at 1:58 PM, Rick Lange > wrote: > > > > Pressure treated clear fir (minimum knots). > > > > Regards, > > > > Rick Lange > > > > > > On Tue, Aug 25, 2020 at 9:36 AM Lowe, Rob wrote: > > > >> Not sure what Triad uses, but when I replaced mine I used regular > pressure > >> treated wood. - rob > >> > >> ________________________________ > >> From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of > >> Alexis Seigneurin > >> Sent: Monday, August 24, 2020 9:44 PM > >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer question > >> > >> Speaking of bunks, I need to replace a couple on my trailer. I thought > >> they were just pressure treated 2-by pine, but Mike?s message today > makes > >> me wonder. > >> > >> What are the recommendations as regards to what type of wood to use for > >> the bunks of a Triad trailer? > >> > >> Thanks, > >> Alexis > >> > >> ________________________________ > >> From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of > >> Lowe, Rob > >> Sent: Monday, August 24, 2020 5:15:05 PM > >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer question > >> > >> Dave, > >> Can't say I've ever seen a trailer w/o carpet on it. I replaced mine > with > >> indoor/outdoor carpet when I replaced the bunks. - Rob > >> > >> > >> -----Original Message----- > >> From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of > >> David Bradley > >> Sent: Monday, August 24, 2020 4:51 PM > >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > >> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer question > >> > >> Hello Rhodies. I hope you?re all having as good a summer as situations > >> allow. Great to be socially distant on the water. > >> > >> I have a quick question that I don?t recall being discussed before. The > >> carpeting on my trailer bunks has worn off. My local mechanic believes > that > >> a smooth bare wood surface is actually better for a bottom-painted boat > >> than carpet. Any takers on that suggestion? > >> > >> Thanks, > >> > >> Dave > >> > >> Dave Bradley > >> s/v Sea Cloud > >> Greenwich Cove, CT > >> > From retiredtoby at gmail.com Wed Aug 26 09:19:12 2020 From: retiredtoby at gmail.com (Cary Tolbert) Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2020 09:19:12 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] motor broke away Message-ID: Preview attachment 20200825_174517.jpg 20200825_174517.jpg 4 MB Once again HELP. Wed. the 25th I was motoring from my slip out on to the lake and kerplunk. The motor raising part of the boat fell off with the motor attached and still running. I also had it attached with a s/s chain. Lucky or not.? ? ? Stan no longer makes the parts for an 86. He said he has long moved to newer and hopefully better designs. It seems the starboard material used to let the motor slide in the rails failed. My question is should I attempt to repair with parts of better materials or buy a gerneric system for raising and lowering one's motor . Say something that would fit a Catalina 22? Looking for advice from the centuries of experience on the list Cary Tolbert S/V Whisper '86 Radford, VA From retiredtoby at gmail.com Wed Aug 26 09:19:48 2020 From: retiredtoby at gmail.com (Cary Tolbert) Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2020 09:19:48 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Fwd: In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: ---------- Forwarded message --------- From: Cary Tolbert Date: Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 9:00 AM Subject: To: Cary Tolbert Re -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20200825_174517.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 4175718 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rlowe at vt.edu Wed Aug 26 09:29:34 2020 From: rlowe at vt.edu (Lowe, Rob) Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2020 13:29:34 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] motor broke away In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Cary, What part(s) actually failed? I see the photo but it's unclear to me what broke or failed. I don't have the same lift so I'm not much help here. - rob -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of Cary Tolbert Sent: Wednesday, August 26, 2020 9:19 AM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: [Rhodes22-list] motor broke away Preview attachment 20200825_174517.jpg 20200825_174517.jpg 4 MB Once again HELP. Wed. the 25th I was motoring from my slip out on to the lake and kerplunk. The motor raising part of the boat fell off with the motor attached and still running. I also had it attached with a s/s chain. Lucky or not.? ? ? Stan no longer makes the parts for an 86. He said he has long moved to newer and hopefully better designs. It seems the starboard material used to let the motor slide in the rails failed. My question is should I attempt to repair with parts of better materials or buy a gerneric system for raising and lowering one's motor . Say something that would fit a Catalina 22? Looking for advice from the centuries of experience on the list Cary Tolbert S/V Whisper '86 Radford, VA From retiredtoby at gmail.com Wed Aug 26 09:36:57 2020 From: retiredtoby at gmail.com (Cary Tolbert) Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2020 09:36:57 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] motor broke away In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Rob, it was the port side upper ear that rides in the tracks. When the starboard rails failed 2-3 years ago Stan said to get a local machine shop to replicate the rails with brass or aluminium. So I was able to replace the rails with the aluminium ones. Even starboard deteriorates with time. It becomes brittle. The same thing happened to the IMF parts also made with starboard material. Cary Tolbert On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 9:29 AM Lowe, Rob wrote: > Cary, > What part(s) actually failed? I see the photo but it's unclear to me what > broke or failed. I don't have the same lift so I'm not much help here. - > rob > > -----Original Message----- > From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of > Cary Tolbert > Sent: Wednesday, August 26, 2020 9:19 AM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: [Rhodes22-list] motor broke away > > Preview attachment 20200825_174517.jpg > 20200825_174517.jpg > 4 MB > < > https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=be1ab8c6c5&attid=0.1&permmsgid=msg-a:r-7374969717110164997&th=1742adb6a4937cb8&view=att&disp=safe&realattid=1742adb12d8c3f23bf81 > >Once > again HELP. Wed. the 25th I was motoring from my slip out on to the lake > and kerplunk. The motor raising part of the boat fell off with the motor > attached and still running. I also had it attached with a s/s chain. Lucky > or not.? ? ? Stan no longer makes the parts for an 86. He said he has long > moved to newer and hopefully better designs. It seems the starboard > material used to let the motor slide in the rails failed. My question is > should I attempt to repair with parts of better materials or buy a > gerneric system for raising and lowering one's motor . Say something that > would fit a Catalina 22? Looking for advice from the centuries of > experience on the list Cary Tolbert S/V Whisper '86 Radford, VA > From peter at sunnybeeches.com Wed Aug 26 09:36:41 2020 From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg) Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2020 09:36:41 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] motor broke away In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <85F2DC7D-7BEE-42E4-A863-5AE5A5819106@sunnybeeches.com> I?d look at repair as my first option. Most of Stan?s designs strike me as potentially repairable. McMaster-Carr (https://www.mcmaster.com) is a good source of materials. If that doesn?t seem feasible, I?d try to buy a complete new motor lift system from General Boats. I assume Stan can supply one of these, though I couldn?t find it on the parts website. After that, it would seem that a third party solution would be your only option. I don?t know anything about these. Peter Nyberg Coventry, CT s/v Silverheels (1988/2016) > On Aug 26, 2020, at 9:19 AM, Cary Tolbert wrote: > > Preview attachment 20200825_174517.jpg > 20200825_174517.jpg > 4 MB > Once > again HELP. Wed. the 25th I was motoring from my slip out on to the lake > and kerplunk. The motor raising part of the boat fell off with the motor > attached and still running. I also had it attached with a s/s chain. Lucky > or not.? ? ? Stan no longer makes the parts for an 86. He said he has long > moved to newer and hopefully better designs. It seems the starboard > material used to let the motor slide in the rails failed. My question is > should I attempt to repair with parts of better materials or buy a > gerneric system for raising and lowering one's motor . Say something that > would fit a Catalina 22? Looking for advice from the centuries of > experience on the list > Cary Tolbert S/V Whisper '86 > Radford, VA From keywestseccorp at verizon.net Wed Aug 26 09:49:32 2020 From: keywestseccorp at verizon.net (Mark West) Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2020 13:49:32 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] motor broke away In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <451265972.4881979.1598449772338@mail.yahoo.com> the fiber? glass box looks ok survey the rails on boat condition of material and hardware if all ok? think about replacing the glides on motor mount with nylon? type products 1 long piece per side with ss hardware? NORVA plastics in Norfolk VA? can suggest material? and cut to dimension if needed 757-622-9281 ? -----Original Message----- From: Cary Tolbert To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Sent: Wed, Aug 26, 2020 9:19 am Subject: [Rhodes22-list] motor broke away Preview attachment 20200825_174517.jpg 20200825_174517.jpg 4 MB Once again HELP. Wed. the 25th I was motoring from my slip out on to the lake and kerplunk. The motor raising part of the boat fell off with the motor attached and still running. I also had it attached with a s/s chain. Lucky or not.? ? ? Stan no longer makes the parts for an 86. He said he has long moved to newer and hopefully better designs. It seems the starboard material used to let the motor slide in the rails failed. My question is should I attempt to repair with parts of better materials or buy a gerneric? system for raising and lowering one's motor . Say something that would fit a Catalina 22? Looking for advice from the centuries of experience on the list Cary Tolbert S/V Whisper '86 Radford, VA From ric at stottarchitecture.com Wed Aug 26 10:14:15 2020 From: ric at stottarchitecture.com (Richard Stott) Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2020 10:14:15 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] motor broke away In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Cary My ?84 GB mount broke on spring launch the year and my Yamaha 8 went in the drink. I purchased a motor mount from West marine immediately so I could continue to use the boat with a spare motor I happened to have on hand. Its a stinky smoky ?99 Merc 2 stroke, but it always starts and runs when it need it - well almost always. I talked it over on the list and discussed with Mike Riter a plan to convert the GB mount to be equipped with a threaded gear (his sketch) so that the mont can be moved with a manual crank or an electric motor. This would be huge advantage over the 6/1 tackle it came equipped with. I?ve been enjoying the boat too much to stop and refine that design of Mikes - that?s a winter project. In any case the parallelogram type mount works fairly well, it has pros and cons. One of the biggest cons is that the moro in the down position is father aft of the transom and will cavitate and lose thrust in larger waves, especially with weight on the bow. I will like the GB system (modified) over the alternative, but the West marine mount was easy to install and serves the immediate need. (What I really want is an electric, steerable, remote controlled, 20 hp sail drive mounted right behind the keel trunk.) It?s doable for approximately one tone of money. One way I use the boat is unusual. I moore my boat 50 yards off shore. I use a stand-up paddle board for a tender because it's light and easy to cary to the shore. I then use the motor only, with the rudder up, to back the boat on to the beach to pick up provisions and of course my wife, who is not one to paddle out to the boat. Depending on the tide and the slope of the beach, I can sometimes put the stern right on the beach. An opening in the stern rail, like the more modern R22s would be a huge asset for picking up passengers from the beach. (next year) Ric sv Dadventure stay tuned for ?motor mount mod? updates Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP www.stottarchitecture.com Office 631-283-1777 Cell 516-965-3164 > On Aug 26, 2020, at 9:19 AM, Cary Tolbert wrote: > > Preview attachment 20200825_174517.jpg > 20200825_174517.jpg > 4 MB > Once > again HELP. Wed. the 25th I was motoring from my slip out on to the lake > and kerplunk. The motor raising part of the boat fell off with the motor > attached and still running. I also had it attached with a s/s chain. Lucky > or not.? ? ? Stan no longer makes the parts for an 86. He said he has long > moved to newer and hopefully better designs. It seems the starboard > material used to let the motor slide in the rails failed. My question is > should I attempt to repair with parts of better materials or buy a > gerneric system for raising and lowering one's motor . Say something that > would fit a Catalina 22? Looking for advice from the centuries of > experience on the list > Cary Tolbert S/V Whisper '86 > Radford, VA From retiredtoby at gmail.com Wed Aug 26 10:32:45 2020 From: retiredtoby at gmail.com (Cary Tolbert) Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2020 10:32:45 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] motor broke away In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Thanks Richard. I have also contacted my insurance company to see what my options might be. Boat ownership, you gotta love it. Cary Tolbert On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 10:14 AM Richard Stott wrote: > Cary > My ?84 GB mount broke on spring launch the year and my Yamaha 8 went in > the drink. > I purchased a motor mount from West marine immediately so I could continue > to use the boat with a spare motor I happened to have on hand. > Its a stinky smoky ?99 Merc 2 stroke, but it always starts and runs when > it need it - well almost always. > I talked it over on the list and discussed with Mike Riter a plan to > convert the GB mount to be equipped with a threaded gear (his sketch) so > that the mont can be moved with a manual crank or an electric motor. > This would be huge advantage over the 6/1 tackle it came equipped with. > I?ve been enjoying the boat too much to stop and refine that design of > Mikes - that?s a winter project. > > In any case the parallelogram type mount works fairly well, it has pros > and cons. > One of the biggest cons is that the moro in the down position is father > aft of the transom and will cavitate and lose thrust in larger waves, > especially with weight on the bow. > I will like the GB system (modified) over the alternative, but the West > marine mount was easy to install and serves the immediate need. > (What I really want is an electric, steerable, remote controlled, 20 hp > sail drive mounted right behind the keel trunk.) > It?s doable for approximately one tone of money. > > One way I use the boat is unusual. > I moore my boat 50 yards off shore. > I use a stand-up paddle board for a tender because it's light and easy to > cary to the shore. > I then use the motor only, with the rudder up, to back the boat on to the > beach to pick up provisions and of course my wife, who is not one to > paddle out to the boat. > Depending on the tide and the slope of the beach, I can sometimes put the > stern right on the beach. > An opening in the stern rail, like the more modern R22s would be a huge > asset for picking up passengers from the beach. (next year) > Ric > sv Dadventure > stay tuned for ?motor mount mod? updates > > > > Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP > www.stottarchitecture.com > Office 631-283-1777 > Cell 516-965-3164 > > > > > > > On Aug 26, 2020, at 9:19 AM, Cary Tolbert wrote: > > > > Preview attachment 20200825_174517.jpg > > 20200825_174517.jpg > > 4 MB > > < > https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=be1ab8c6c5&attid=0.1&permmsgid=msg-a:r-7374969717110164997&th=1742adb6a4937cb8&view=att&disp=safe&realattid=1742adb12d8c3f23bf81 > >Once > > again HELP. Wed. the 25th I was motoring from my slip out on to the lake > > and kerplunk. The motor raising part of the boat fell off with the motor > > attached and still running. I also had it attached with a s/s chain. > Lucky > > or not.? ? ? Stan no longer makes the parts for an 86. He said he has > long > > moved to newer and hopefully better designs. It seems the starboard > > material used to let the motor slide in the rails failed. My question is > > should I attempt to repair with parts of better materials or buy a > > gerneric system for raising and lowering one's motor . Say something > that > > would fit a Catalina 22? Looking for advice from the centuries of > > experience on the list > > Cary Tolbert S/V Whisper '86 > > Radford, VA > > From mark at whipplefamily.com Wed Aug 26 10:43:46 2020 From: mark at whipplefamily.com (Mark Whipple) Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2020 10:43:46 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Saildrive In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi Richard, I purchased my 2000 R22 last year and it came with a 15hp Yamaha saildrive. I haven't had a chance to use the boat much yet, but it seems like it will address many of the issues with an outboard on the transom (raising/lowering, keeping the drive underwater). Unfortunately the company that made this saildrive is essentially out of business. I am concerned about what I'll have to do once this saildrive needs a part I can't get or needs a costly repair. I'm not sure I like the alternative solutions that involve a motor on the transom. Maybe I need to start saving my pennies toward a replacement. Regarding that option, the saildrives I've seen tend to have larger engine than mine - often a diesel. Mine is essentially a Yamaha (made by Parsun) outboard head so it's not very tall. Maybe I'll be lucky and not have to solve the replacement problem. Mark -- Boston, MA 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* 1987 Nimble 30 *For Sale* 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 10:14 AM Richard Stott wrote: > Cary > My ?84 GB mount broke on spring launch the year and my Yamaha 8 went in > the drink. > I purchased a motor mount from West marine immediately so I could continue > to use the boat with a spare motor I happened to have on hand. > Its a stinky smoky ?99 Merc 2 stroke, but it always starts and runs when > it need it - well almost always. > I talked it over on the list and discussed with Mike Riter a plan to > convert the GB mount to be equipped with a threaded gear (his sketch) so > that the mont can be moved with a manual crank or an electric motor. > This would be huge advantage over the 6/1 tackle it came equipped with. > I?ve been enjoying the boat too much to stop and refine that design of > Mikes - that?s a winter project. > > In any case the parallelogram type mount works fairly well, it has pros > and cons. > One of the biggest cons is that the moro in the down position is father > aft of the transom and will cavitate and lose thrust in larger waves, > especially with weight on the bow. > I will like the GB system (modified) over the alternative, but the West > marine mount was easy to install and serves the immediate need. > (What I really want is an electric, steerable, remote controlled, 20 hp > sail drive mounted right behind the keel trunk.) > It?s doable for approximately one tone of money. > > One way I use the boat is unusual. > I moore my boat 50 yards off shore. > I use a stand-up paddle board for a tender because it's light and easy to > cary to the shore. > I then use the motor only, with the rudder up, to back the boat on to the > beach to pick up provisions and of course my wife, who is not one to > paddle out to the boat. > Depending on the tide and the slope of the beach, I can sometimes put the > stern right on the beach. > An opening in the stern rail, like the more modern R22s would be a huge > asset for picking up passengers from the beach. (next year) > Ric > sv Dadventure > stay tuned for ?motor mount mod? updates > > > > Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP > www.stottarchitecture.com > Office 631-283-1777 > Cell 516-965-3164 > > > > > > > On Aug 26, 2020, at 9:19 AM, Cary Tolbert wrote: > > > > Preview attachment 20200825_174517.jpg > > 20200825_174517.jpg > > 4 MB > > < > https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=be1ab8c6c5&attid=0.1&permmsgid=msg-a:r-7374969717110164997&th=1742adb6a4937cb8&view=att&disp=safe&realattid=1742adb12d8c3f23bf81 > >Once > > again HELP. Wed. the 25th I was motoring from my slip out on to the lake > > and kerplunk. The motor raising part of the boat fell off with the motor > > attached and still running. I also had it attached with a s/s chain. > Lucky > > or not.? ? ? Stan no longer makes the parts for an 86. He said he has > long > > moved to newer and hopefully better designs. It seems the starboard > > material used to let the motor slide in the rails failed. My question is > > should I attempt to repair with parts of better materials or buy a > > gerneric system for raising and lowering one's motor . Say something > that > > would fit a Catalina 22? Looking for advice from the centuries of > > experience on the list > > Cary Tolbert S/V Whisper '86 > > Radford, VA > > -- Boston, MA 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* 1986 Nimble 30 *For Sale* 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* From ric at stottarchitecture.com Wed Aug 26 10:46:38 2020 From: ric at stottarchitecture.com (Richard Stott) Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2020 10:46:38 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] motor broke away In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: INSURANCE: The wood mount portion of my motor mount broke off - it was rotten under the paint but looked to be in perfect condition. My insurance company (Gieco) though Boat US, did not cover the mount because it does not cover rot, but gave me $2,600 for the Yamaha, which came from a local repair estimate (which was tough to acquire during Covid). I have not yet fixed the Yamaha I was surprised they paid anything. When I shoved the CB though the CB cap last year fall, I didn?t even think to file a claim until it was too late. They probably would have ?totaled? the boat at its stated value. I did point that out to the adjuster who came to look at the boat. I fixed it myself and it took a L O N G time. Now - its better than new. Ric Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP www.stottarchitecture.com Office 631-283-1777 Cell 516-965-3164 > On Aug 26, 2020, at 10:32 AM, Cary Tolbert wrote: > > Thanks Richard. I have also contacted my insurance company to see what my > options might be. > Boat ownership, you gotta love it. > Cary Tolbert > > On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 10:14 AM Richard Stott > wrote: > >> Cary >> My ?84 GB mount broke on spring launch the year and my Yamaha 8 went in >> the drink. >> I purchased a motor mount from West marine immediately so I could continue >> to use the boat with a spare motor I happened to have on hand. >> Its a stinky smoky ?99 Merc 2 stroke, but it always starts and runs when >> it need it - well almost always. >> I talked it over on the list and discussed with Mike Riter a plan to >> convert the GB mount to be equipped with a threaded gear (his sketch) so >> that the mont can be moved with a manual crank or an electric motor. >> This would be huge advantage over the 6/1 tackle it came equipped with. >> I?ve been enjoying the boat too much to stop and refine that design of >> Mikes - that?s a winter project. >> >> In any case the parallelogram type mount works fairly well, it has pros >> and cons. >> One of the biggest cons is that the moro in the down position is father >> aft of the transom and will cavitate and lose thrust in larger waves, >> especially with weight on the bow. >> I will like the GB system (modified) over the alternative, but the West >> marine mount was easy to install and serves the immediate need. >> (What I really want is an electric, steerable, remote controlled, 20 hp >> sail drive mounted right behind the keel trunk.) >> It?s doable for approximately one tone of money. >> >> One way I use the boat is unusual. >> I moore my boat 50 yards off shore. >> I use a stand-up paddle board for a tender because it's light and easy to >> cary to the shore. >> I then use the motor only, with the rudder up, to back the boat on to the >> beach to pick up provisions and of course my wife, who is not one to >> paddle out to the boat. >> Depending on the tide and the slope of the beach, I can sometimes put the >> stern right on the beach. >> An opening in the stern rail, like the more modern R22s would be a huge >> asset for picking up passengers from the beach. (next year) >> Ric >> sv Dadventure >> stay tuned for ?motor mount mod? updates >> >> >> >> Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP >> www.stottarchitecture.com >> Office 631-283-1777 >> Cell 516-965-3164 >> >> >> >> >> >>> On Aug 26, 2020, at 9:19 AM, Cary Tolbert wrote: >>> >>> Preview attachment 20200825_174517.jpg >>> 20200825_174517.jpg >>> 4 MB >>> < >> https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=be1ab8c6c5&attid=0.1&permmsgid=msg-a:r-7374969717110164997&th=1742adb6a4937cb8&view=att&disp=safe&realattid=1742adb12d8c3f23bf81 >>> Once >>> again HELP. Wed. the 25th I was motoring from my slip out on to the lake >>> and kerplunk. The motor raising part of the boat fell off with the motor >>> attached and still running. I also had it attached with a s/s chain. >> Lucky >>> or not.? ? ? Stan no longer makes the parts for an 86. He said he has >> long >>> moved to newer and hopefully better designs. It seems the starboard >>> material used to let the motor slide in the rails failed. My question is >>> should I attempt to repair with parts of better materials or buy a >>> gerneric system for raising and lowering one's motor . Say something >> that >>> would fit a Catalina 22? Looking for advice from the centuries of >>> experience on the list >>> Cary Tolbert S/V Whisper '86 >>> Radford, VA >> >> From ric at stottarchitecture.com Wed Aug 26 10:53:23 2020 From: ric at stottarchitecture.com (Richard Stott) Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2020 10:53:23 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Saildrive In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Mark 15 HP is a lot of motor. Can you show us a pic of where its mounted? Any pics of it under the boat? Can you share performance and maneuverability with us? I?m dying to know more about this. A steerable unit is my fantasy but a fixed one might work. Ric sv Dadventure HBNY Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP www.stottarchitecture.com Office 631-283-1777 Cell 516-965-3164 > On Aug 26, 2020, at 10:43 AM, Mark Whipple wrote: > > Hi Richard, > > I purchased my 2000 R22 last year and it came with a 15hp Yamaha saildrive. > I haven't had a chance to use the boat much yet, but it seems like it will > address many of the issues with an outboard on the transom > (raising/lowering, keeping the drive underwater). > > Unfortunately the company that made this saildrive is essentially out of > business. I am concerned about what I'll have to do once this saildrive > needs a part I can't get or needs a costly repair. I'm not sure I like the > alternative solutions that involve a motor on the transom. Maybe I need to > start saving my pennies toward a replacement. Regarding that option, the > saildrives I've seen tend to have larger engine than mine - often a diesel. > Mine is essentially a Yamaha (made by Parsun) outboard head so it's not > very tall. Maybe I'll be lucky and not have to solve the replacement > problem. > > Mark > > -- > Boston, MA > > 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* > 1987 Nimble 30 *For Sale* > 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* > > On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 10:14 AM Richard Stott > wrote: > >> Cary >> My ?84 GB mount broke on spring launch the year and my Yamaha 8 went in >> the drink. >> I purchased a motor mount from West marine immediately so I could continue >> to use the boat with a spare motor I happened to have on hand. >> Its a stinky smoky ?99 Merc 2 stroke, but it always starts and runs when >> it need it - well almost always. >> I talked it over on the list and discussed with Mike Riter a plan to >> convert the GB mount to be equipped with a threaded gear (his sketch) so >> that the mont can be moved with a manual crank or an electric motor. >> This would be huge advantage over the 6/1 tackle it came equipped with. >> I?ve been enjoying the boat too much to stop and refine that design of >> Mikes - that?s a winter project. >> >> In any case the parallelogram type mount works fairly well, it has pros >> and cons. >> One of the biggest cons is that the moro in the down position is father >> aft of the transom and will cavitate and lose thrust in larger waves, >> especially with weight on the bow. >> I will like the GB system (modified) over the alternative, but the West >> marine mount was easy to install and serves the immediate need. >> (What I really want is an electric, steerable, remote controlled, 20 hp >> sail drive mounted right behind the keel trunk.) >> It?s doable for approximately one tone of money. >> >> One way I use the boat is unusual. >> I moore my boat 50 yards off shore. >> I use a stand-up paddle board for a tender because it's light and easy to >> cary to the shore. >> I then use the motor only, with the rudder up, to back the boat on to the >> beach to pick up provisions and of course my wife, who is not one to >> paddle out to the boat. >> Depending on the tide and the slope of the beach, I can sometimes put the >> stern right on the beach. >> An opening in the stern rail, like the more modern R22s would be a huge >> asset for picking up passengers from the beach. (next year) >> Ric >> sv Dadventure >> stay tuned for ?motor mount mod? updates >> >> >> >> Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP >> www.stottarchitecture.com >> Office 631-283-1777 >> Cell 516-965-3164 >> >> >> >> >> >>> On Aug 26, 2020, at 9:19 AM, Cary Tolbert wrote: >>> >>> Preview attachment 20200825_174517.jpg >>> 20200825_174517.jpg >>> 4 MB >>> < >> https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=be1ab8c6c5&attid=0.1&permmsgid=msg-a:r-7374969717110164997&th=1742adb6a4937cb8&view=att&disp=safe&realattid=1742adb12d8c3f23bf81 >>> Once >>> again HELP. Wed. the 25th I was motoring from my slip out on to the lake >>> and kerplunk. The motor raising part of the boat fell off with the motor >>> attached and still running. I also had it attached with a s/s chain. >> Lucky >>> or not.? ? ? Stan no longer makes the parts for an 86. He said he has >> long >>> moved to newer and hopefully better designs. It seems the starboard >>> material used to let the motor slide in the rails failed. My question is >>> should I attempt to repair with parts of better materials or buy a >>> gerneric system for raising and lowering one's motor . Say something >> that >>> would fit a Catalina 22? Looking for advice from the centuries of >>> experience on the list >>> Cary Tolbert S/V Whisper '86 >>> Radford, VA >> >> > > -- > Boston, MA > > 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* > 1986 Nimble 30 *For Sale* > 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* From mark at whipplefamily.com Wed Aug 26 11:18:04 2020 From: mark at whipplefamily.com (Mark Whipple) Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2020 11:18:04 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Saildrive In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Ric, Here's a few pictures I dug up. I'm currently hunting for a source for the zincs. Mark [image: Rhodes 22 MA CL 03.jpg] [image: Rhodes 22 MA CL 04.jpg] [image: Rhodes 22 MA CL 08.jpg] [image: 20200824_165705.jpg] On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 10:53 AM Richard Stott wrote: > Mark > 15 HP is a lot of motor. > Can you show us a pic of where its mounted? > Any pics of it under the boat? > Can you share performance and maneuverability with us? > I?m dying to know more about this. > A steerable unit is my fantasy but a fixed one might work. > Ric > sv Dadventure > HBNY > > Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP > www.stottarchitecture.com > Office 631-283-1777 > Cell 516-965-3164 > > > > > > > On Aug 26, 2020, at 10:43 AM, Mark Whipple > wrote: > > > > Hi Richard, > > > > I purchased my 2000 R22 last year and it came with a 15hp Yamaha > saildrive. > > I haven't had a chance to use the boat much yet, but it seems like it > will > > address many of the issues with an outboard on the transom > > (raising/lowering, keeping the drive underwater). > > > > Unfortunately the company that made this saildrive is essentially out of > > business. I am concerned about what I'll have to do once this saildrive > > needs a part I can't get or needs a costly repair. I'm not sure I like > the > > alternative solutions that involve a motor on the transom. Maybe I need > to > > start saving my pennies toward a replacement. Regarding that option, the > > saildrives I've seen tend to have larger engine than mine - often a > diesel. > > Mine is essentially a Yamaha (made by Parsun) outboard head so it's not > > very tall. Maybe I'll be lucky and not have to solve the replacement > > problem. > > > > Mark > > > > -- > > Boston, MA > > > > 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* > > 1987 Nimble 30 *For Sale* > > 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* > > > > On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 10:14 AM Richard Stott < > ric at stottarchitecture.com> > > wrote: > > > >> Cary > >> My ?84 GB mount broke on spring launch the year and my Yamaha 8 went in > >> the drink. > >> I purchased a motor mount from West marine immediately so I could > continue > >> to use the boat with a spare motor I happened to have on hand. > >> Its a stinky smoky ?99 Merc 2 stroke, but it always starts and runs when > >> it need it - well almost always. > >> I talked it over on the list and discussed with Mike Riter a plan to > >> convert the GB mount to be equipped with a threaded gear (his sketch) so > >> that the mont can be moved with a manual crank or an electric motor. > >> This would be huge advantage over the 6/1 tackle it came equipped with. > >> I?ve been enjoying the boat too much to stop and refine that design of > >> Mikes - that?s a winter project. > >> > >> In any case the parallelogram type mount works fairly well, it has pros > >> and cons. > >> One of the biggest cons is that the moro in the down position is father > >> aft of the transom and will cavitate and lose thrust in larger waves, > >> especially with weight on the bow. > >> I will like the GB system (modified) over the alternative, but the West > >> marine mount was easy to install and serves the immediate need. > >> (What I really want is an electric, steerable, remote controlled, 20 hp > >> sail drive mounted right behind the keel trunk.) > >> It?s doable for approximately one tone of money. > >> > >> One way I use the boat is unusual. > >> I moore my boat 50 yards off shore. > >> I use a stand-up paddle board for a tender because it's light and easy > to > >> cary to the shore. > >> I then use the motor only, with the rudder up, to back the boat on to > the > >> beach to pick up provisions and of course my wife, who is not one to > >> paddle out to the boat. > >> Depending on the tide and the slope of the beach, I can sometimes put > the > >> stern right on the beach. > >> An opening in the stern rail, like the more modern R22s would be a huge > >> asset for picking up passengers from the beach. (next year) > >> Ric > >> sv Dadventure > >> stay tuned for ?motor mount mod? updates > >> > >> > >> > >> Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP > >> www.stottarchitecture.com > >> Office 631-283-1777 > >> Cell 516-965-3164 > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >>> On Aug 26, 2020, at 9:19 AM, Cary Tolbert > wrote: > >>> > >>> Preview attachment 20200825_174517.jpg > >>> 20200825_174517.jpg > >>> 4 MB > >>> < > >> > https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=be1ab8c6c5&attid=0.1&permmsgid=msg-a:r-7374969717110164997&th=1742adb6a4937cb8&view=att&disp=safe&realattid=1742adb12d8c3f23bf81 > >>> Once > >>> again HELP. Wed. the 25th I was motoring from my slip out on to the > lake > >>> and kerplunk. The motor raising part of the boat fell off with the > motor > >>> attached and still running. I also had it attached with a s/s chain. > >> Lucky > >>> or not.? ? ? Stan no longer makes the parts for an 86. He said he has > >> long > >>> moved to newer and hopefully better designs. It seems the starboard > >>> material used to let the motor slide in the rails failed. My question > is > >>> should I attempt to repair with parts of better materials or buy a > >>> gerneric system for raising and lowering one's motor . Say something > >> that > >>> would fit a Catalina 22? Looking for advice from the centuries of > >>> experience on the list > >>> Cary Tolbert S/V Whisper '86 > >>> Radford, VA > >> > >> > > > > -- > > Boston, MA > > > > 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* > > 1986 Nimble 30 *For Sale* > > 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* > > -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20200824_165705.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 652767 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Rhodes 22 MA CL 03.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 61722 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Rhodes 22 MA CL 04.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 79585 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Rhodes 22 MA CL 08.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 200670 bytes Desc: not available URL: From ric at stottarchitecture.com Wed Aug 26 11:31:49 2020 From: ric at stottarchitecture.com (Ric Stott) Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2020 11:31:49 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Saildrive In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <25D50094-CC7F-45F0-900A-80859113A313@stottarchitecture.com> Cory - that?s a really interesting install. Is 15 HP enough to get on a plane? It would not work for my needs - it?s too deep. I would need the prop to be no deeper than the bottom of the keel, and I would mount it in the middle of the cockpit floor, about a foot aft of the end of the keel, understanding that the motor head (probably electric and smaller than the Yamaha head) would require a low cover above the cockpit floor. I would also like it to be a steerable sail drive with a remote. Not sure that such a thing is even available. Thanks Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP www.stottarchitecture.com Office 631-283-1777 Cell 516-965-3164 > On Aug 26, 2020, at 11:18 AM, Mark Whipple wrote: > > Ric, > > Here's a few pictures I dug up. I'm currently hunting for a source for the > zincs. > > Mark > [image: Rhodes 22 MA CL 03.jpg] > [image: Rhodes 22 MA CL 04.jpg] > [image: Rhodes 22 MA CL 08.jpg] > > > [image: 20200824_165705.jpg] > > On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 10:53 AM Richard Stott > wrote: > >> Mark >> 15 HP is a lot of motor. >> Can you show us a pic of where its mounted? >> Any pics of it under the boat? >> Can you share performance and maneuverability with us? >> I?m dying to know more about this. >> A steerable unit is my fantasy but a fixed one might work. >> Ric >> sv Dadventure >> HBNY >> >> Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP >> www.stottarchitecture.com >> Office 631-283-1777 >> Cell 516-965-3164 >> >> >> >> >> >>> On Aug 26, 2020, at 10:43 AM, Mark Whipple >> wrote: >>> >>> Hi Richard, >>> >>> I purchased my 2000 R22 last year and it came with a 15hp Yamaha >> saildrive. >>> I haven't had a chance to use the boat much yet, but it seems like it >> will >>> address many of the issues with an outboard on the transom >>> (raising/lowering, keeping the drive underwater). >>> >>> Unfortunately the company that made this saildrive is essentially out of >>> business. I am concerned about what I'll have to do once this saildrive >>> needs a part I can't get or needs a costly repair. I'm not sure I like >> the >>> alternative solutions that involve a motor on the transom. Maybe I need >> to >>> start saving my pennies toward a replacement. Regarding that option, the >>> saildrives I've seen tend to have larger engine than mine - often a >> diesel. >>> Mine is essentially a Yamaha (made by Parsun) outboard head so it's not >>> very tall. Maybe I'll be lucky and not have to solve the replacement >>> problem. >>> >>> Mark >>> >>> -- >>> Boston, MA >>> >>> 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* >>> 1987 Nimble 30 *For Sale* >>> 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* >>> >>> On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 10:14 AM Richard Stott < >> ric at stottarchitecture.com> >>> wrote: >>> >>>> Cary >>>> My ?84 GB mount broke on spring launch the year and my Yamaha 8 went in >>>> the drink. >>>> I purchased a motor mount from West marine immediately so I could >> continue >>>> to use the boat with a spare motor I happened to have on hand. >>>> Its a stinky smoky ?99 Merc 2 stroke, but it always starts and runs when >>>> it need it - well almost always. >>>> I talked it over on the list and discussed with Mike Riter a plan to >>>> convert the GB mount to be equipped with a threaded gear (his sketch) so >>>> that the mont can be moved with a manual crank or an electric motor. >>>> This would be huge advantage over the 6/1 tackle it came equipped with. >>>> I?ve been enjoying the boat too much to stop and refine that design of >>>> Mikes - that?s a winter project. >>>> >>>> In any case the parallelogram type mount works fairly well, it has pros >>>> and cons. >>>> One of the biggest cons is that the moro in the down position is father >>>> aft of the transom and will cavitate and lose thrust in larger waves, >>>> especially with weight on the bow. >>>> I will like the GB system (modified) over the alternative, but the West >>>> marine mount was easy to install and serves the immediate need. >>>> (What I really want is an electric, steerable, remote controlled, 20 hp >>>> sail drive mounted right behind the keel trunk.) >>>> It?s doable for approximately one tone of money. >>>> >>>> One way I use the boat is unusual. >>>> I moore my boat 50 yards off shore. >>>> I use a stand-up paddle board for a tender because it's light and easy >> to >>>> cary to the shore. >>>> I then use the motor only, with the rudder up, to back the boat on to >> the >>>> beach to pick up provisions and of course my wife, who is not one to >>>> paddle out to the boat. >>>> Depending on the tide and the slope of the beach, I can sometimes put >> the >>>> stern right on the beach. >>>> An opening in the stern rail, like the more modern R22s would be a huge >>>> asset for picking up passengers from the beach. (next year) >>>> Ric >>>> sv Dadventure >>>> stay tuned for ?motor mount mod? updates >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP >>>> www.stottarchitecture.com >>>> Office 631-283-1777 >>>> Cell 516-965-3164 >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>>> On Aug 26, 2020, at 9:19 AM, Cary Tolbert >> wrote: >>>>> >>>>> Preview attachment 20200825_174517.jpg >>>>> 20200825_174517.jpg >>>>> 4 MB >>>>> < >>>> >> https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=be1ab8c6c5&attid=0.1&permmsgid=msg-a:r-7374969717110164997&th=1742adb6a4937cb8&view=att&disp=safe&realattid=1742adb12d8c3f23bf81 >>>>> Once >>>>> again HELP. Wed. the 25th I was motoring from my slip out on to the >> lake >>>>> and kerplunk. The motor raising part of the boat fell off with the >> motor >>>>> attached and still running. I also had it attached with a s/s chain. >>>> Lucky >>>>> or not.? ? ? Stan no longer makes the parts for an 86. He said he has >>>> long >>>>> moved to newer and hopefully better designs. It seems the starboard >>>>> material used to let the motor slide in the rails failed. My question >> is >>>>> should I attempt to repair with parts of better materials or buy a >>>>> gerneric system for raising and lowering one's motor . Say something >>>> that >>>>> would fit a Catalina 22? Looking for advice from the centuries of >>>>> experience on the list >>>>> Cary Tolbert S/V Whisper '86 >>>>> Radford, VA >>>> >>>> >>> >>> -- >>> Boston, MA >>> >>> 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* >>> 1986 Nimble 30 *For Sale* >>> 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* >> >> > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: 20200824_165705.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 652767 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: Rhodes 22 MA CL 03.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 61722 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: Rhodes 22 MA CL 04.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 79585 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: Rhodes 22 MA CL 08.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 200670 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: From mark at whipplefamily.com Wed Aug 26 11:42:05 2020 From: mark at whipplefamily.com (Mark Whipple) Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2020 11:42:05 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Saildrive In-Reply-To: <25D50094-CC7F-45F0-900A-80859113A313@stottarchitecture.com> References: <25D50094-CC7F-45F0-900A-80859113A313@stottarchitecture.com> Message-ID: FWIW, I'm pretty sure the drive is at about the same depth as the keel. I'll try to take a picture from the side later today. Also the rudder redirects some of the prop wash since the prop is in front. I haven't had it in the water yet this year (soon!) but I recall the feeling of the prop wash on the wheel was a little weird. Yes, my boat has a wheel and a self-tending jib, too. Not sure if it will get up on a plane. We'll see. Mark On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 11:31 AM Ric Stott wrote: > Cory - that?s a really interesting install. > Is 15 HP enough to get on a plane? > It would not work for my needs - it?s too deep. > I would need the prop to be no deeper than the bottom of the keel, and I > would mount it in the middle of the cockpit floor, about a foot aft of the > end of the keel, understanding that the motor head (probably electric and > smaller than the Yamaha head) would require a low cover above the cockpit > floor. > I would also like it to be a steerable sail drive with a remote. > Not sure that such a thing is even available. > Thanks > > Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP > www.stottarchitecture.com > Office 631-283-1777 > Cell 516-965-3164 > > > > > > > On Aug 26, 2020, at 11:18 AM, Mark Whipple > wrote: > > > > Ric, > > > > Here's a few pictures I dug up. I'm currently hunting for a source for > the > > zincs. > > > > Mark > > [image: Rhodes 22 MA CL 03.jpg] > > [image: Rhodes 22 MA CL 04.jpg] > > [image: Rhodes 22 MA CL 08.jpg] > > > > > > [image: 20200824_165705.jpg] > > > > On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 10:53 AM Richard Stott < > ric at stottarchitecture.com> > > wrote: > > > >> Mark > >> 15 HP is a lot of motor. > >> Can you show us a pic of where its mounted? > >> Any pics of it under the boat? > >> Can you share performance and maneuverability with us? > >> I?m dying to know more about this. > >> A steerable unit is my fantasy but a fixed one might work. > >> Ric > >> sv Dadventure > >> HBNY > >> > >> Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP > >> www.stottarchitecture.com > >> Office 631-283-1777 > >> Cell 516-965-3164 > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >>> On Aug 26, 2020, at 10:43 AM, Mark Whipple > >> wrote: > >>> > >>> Hi Richard, > >>> > >>> I purchased my 2000 R22 last year and it came with a 15hp Yamaha > >> saildrive. > >>> I haven't had a chance to use the boat much yet, but it seems like it > >> will > >>> address many of the issues with an outboard on the transom > >>> (raising/lowering, keeping the drive underwater). > >>> > >>> Unfortunately the company that made this saildrive is essentially out > of > >>> business. I am concerned about what I'll have to do once this saildrive > >>> needs a part I can't get or needs a costly repair. I'm not sure I like > >> the > >>> alternative solutions that involve a motor on the transom. Maybe I need > >> to > >>> start saving my pennies toward a replacement. Regarding that option, > the > >>> saildrives I've seen tend to have larger engine than mine - often a > >> diesel. > >>> Mine is essentially a Yamaha (made by Parsun) outboard head so it's not > >>> very tall. Maybe I'll be lucky and not have to solve the replacement > >>> problem. > >>> > >>> Mark > >>> > >>> -- > >>> Boston, MA > >>> > >>> 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* > >>> 1987 Nimble 30 *For Sale* > >>> 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* > >>> > >>> On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 10:14 AM Richard Stott < > >> ric at stottarchitecture.com> > >>> wrote: > >>> > >>>> Cary > >>>> My ?84 GB mount broke on spring launch the year and my Yamaha 8 went > in > >>>> the drink. > >>>> I purchased a motor mount from West marine immediately so I could > >> continue > >>>> to use the boat with a spare motor I happened to have on hand. > >>>> Its a stinky smoky ?99 Merc 2 stroke, but it always starts and runs > when > >>>> it need it - well almost always. > >>>> I talked it over on the list and discussed with Mike Riter a plan to > >>>> convert the GB mount to be equipped with a threaded gear (his sketch) > so > >>>> that the mont can be moved with a manual crank or an electric motor. > >>>> This would be huge advantage over the 6/1 tackle it came equipped > with. > >>>> I?ve been enjoying the boat too much to stop and refine that design of > >>>> Mikes - that?s a winter project. > >>>> > >>>> In any case the parallelogram type mount works fairly well, it has > pros > >>>> and cons. > >>>> One of the biggest cons is that the moro in the down position is > father > >>>> aft of the transom and will cavitate and lose thrust in larger waves, > >>>> especially with weight on the bow. > >>>> I will like the GB system (modified) over the alternative, but the > West > >>>> marine mount was easy to install and serves the immediate need. > >>>> (What I really want is an electric, steerable, remote controlled, 20 > hp > >>>> sail drive mounted right behind the keel trunk.) > >>>> It?s doable for approximately one tone of money. > >>>> > >>>> One way I use the boat is unusual. > >>>> I moore my boat 50 yards off shore. > >>>> I use a stand-up paddle board for a tender because it's light and easy > >> to > >>>> cary to the shore. > >>>> I then use the motor only, with the rudder up, to back the boat on to > >> the > >>>> beach to pick up provisions and of course my wife, who is not one to > >>>> paddle out to the boat. > >>>> Depending on the tide and the slope of the beach, I can sometimes put > >> the > >>>> stern right on the beach. > >>>> An opening in the stern rail, like the more modern R22s would be a > huge > >>>> asset for picking up passengers from the beach. (next year) > >>>> Ric > >>>> sv Dadventure > >>>> stay tuned for ?motor mount mod? updates > >>>> > >>>> > >>>> > >>>> Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP > >>>> www.stottarchitecture.com > >>>> Office 631-283-1777 > >>>> Cell 516-965-3164 > >>>> > >>>> > >>>> > >>>> > >>>> > >>>>> On Aug 26, 2020, at 9:19 AM, Cary Tolbert > >> wrote: > >>>>> > >>>>> Preview attachment 20200825_174517.jpg > >>>>> 20200825_174517.jpg > >>>>> 4 MB > >>>>> < > >>>> > >> > https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=be1ab8c6c5&attid=0.1&permmsgid=msg-a:r-7374969717110164997&th=1742adb6a4937cb8&view=att&disp=safe&realattid=1742adb12d8c3f23bf81 > >>>>> Once > >>>>> again HELP. Wed. the 25th I was motoring from my slip out on to the > >> lake > >>>>> and kerplunk. The motor raising part of the boat fell off with the > >> motor > >>>>> attached and still running. I also had it attached with a s/s chain. > >>>> Lucky > >>>>> or not.? ? ? Stan no longer makes the parts for an 86. He said he has > >>>> long > >>>>> moved to newer and hopefully better designs. It seems the starboard > >>>>> material used to let the motor slide in the rails failed. My question > >> is > >>>>> should I attempt to repair with parts of better materials or buy a > >>>>> gerneric system for raising and lowering one's motor . Say something > >>>> that > >>>>> would fit a Catalina 22? Looking for advice from the centuries of > >>>>> experience on the list > >>>>> Cary Tolbert S/V Whisper '86 > >>>>> Radford, VA > >>>> > >>>> > >>> > >>> -- > >>> Boston, MA > >>> > >>> 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* > >>> 1986 Nimble 30 *For Sale* > >>> 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* > >> > >> > > -------------- next part -------------- > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > Name: 20200824_165705.jpg > > Type: image/jpeg > > Size: 652767 bytes > > Desc: not available > > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200826/730b3b80/attachment.jpg > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > Name: Rhodes 22 MA CL 03.jpg > > Type: image/jpeg > > Size: 61722 bytes > > Desc: not available > > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200826/730b3b80/attachment-0001.jpg > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > Name: Rhodes 22 MA CL 04.jpg > > Type: image/jpeg > > Size: 79585 bytes > > Desc: not available > > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200826/730b3b80/attachment-0002.jpg > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > Name: Rhodes 22 MA CL 08.jpg > > Type: image/jpeg > > Size: 200670 bytes > > Desc: not available > > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200826/730b3b80/attachment-0003.jpg > > > > From jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com Wed Aug 26 12:06:43 2020 From: jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com (Jesse Shumaker) Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2020 11:06:43 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Saildrive In-Reply-To: References: <25D50094-CC7F-45F0-900A-80859113A313@stottarchitecture.com> Message-ID: Mark, it sounds like your R22 has even more bells and whistles than most! I'm curious about your self tending jib. I've only seen that feature on larger boats such as Island Packets. Have you found the self tending jib to work well? Jesse Shumaker S/V Zephyr On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 10:42 AM Mark Whipple wrote: > FWIW, I'm pretty sure the drive is at about the same depth as the keel. > I'll try to take a picture from the side later today. Also the rudder > redirects some of the prop wash since the prop is in front. I haven't > had it in the water yet this year (soon!) but I recall the feeling of the > prop wash on the wheel was a little weird. Yes, my boat has a wheel and a > self-tending jib, too. Not sure if it will get up on a plane. We'll see. > > Mark > > On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 11:31 AM Ric Stott > wrote: > > > Cory - that?s a really interesting install. > > Is 15 HP enough to get on a plane? > > It would not work for my needs - it?s too deep. > > I would need the prop to be no deeper than the bottom of the keel, and I > > would mount it in the middle of the cockpit floor, about a foot aft of > the > > end of the keel, understanding that the motor head (probably electric > and > > smaller than the Yamaha head) would require a low cover above the cockpit > > floor. > > I would also like it to be a steerable sail drive with a remote. > > Not sure that such a thing is even available. > > Thanks > > > > Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP > > www.stottarchitecture.com > > Office 631-283-1777 > > Cell 516-965-3164 > > > > > > > > > > > > > On Aug 26, 2020, at 11:18 AM, Mark Whipple > > wrote: > > > > > > Ric, > > > > > > Here's a few pictures I dug up. I'm currently hunting for a source for > > the > > > zincs. > > > > > > Mark > > > [image: Rhodes 22 MA CL 03.jpg] > > > [image: Rhodes 22 MA CL 04.jpg] > > > [image: Rhodes 22 MA CL 08.jpg] > > > > > > > > > [image: 20200824_165705.jpg] > > > > > > On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 10:53 AM Richard Stott < > > ric at stottarchitecture.com> > > > wrote: > > > > > >> Mark > > >> 15 HP is a lot of motor. > > >> Can you show us a pic of where its mounted? > > >> Any pics of it under the boat? > > >> Can you share performance and maneuverability with us? > > >> I?m dying to know more about this. > > >> A steerable unit is my fantasy but a fixed one might work. > > >> Ric > > >> sv Dadventure > > >> HBNY > > >> > > >> Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP > > >> www.stottarchitecture.com > > >> Office 631-283-1777 > > >> Cell 516-965-3164 > > >> > > >> > > >> > > >> > > >> > > >>> On Aug 26, 2020, at 10:43 AM, Mark Whipple > > >> wrote: > > >>> > > >>> Hi Richard, > > >>> > > >>> I purchased my 2000 R22 last year and it came with a 15hp Yamaha > > >> saildrive. > > >>> I haven't had a chance to use the boat much yet, but it seems like it > > >> will > > >>> address many of the issues with an outboard on the transom > > >>> (raising/lowering, keeping the drive underwater). > > >>> > > >>> Unfortunately the company that made this saildrive is essentially out > > of > > >>> business. I am concerned about what I'll have to do once this > saildrive > > >>> needs a part I can't get or needs a costly repair. I'm not sure I > like > > >> the > > >>> alternative solutions that involve a motor on the transom. Maybe I > need > > >> to > > >>> start saving my pennies toward a replacement. Regarding that option, > > the > > >>> saildrives I've seen tend to have larger engine than mine - often a > > >> diesel. > > >>> Mine is essentially a Yamaha (made by Parsun) outboard head so it's > not > > >>> very tall. Maybe I'll be lucky and not have to solve the replacement > > >>> problem. > > >>> > > >>> Mark > > >>> > > >>> -- > > >>> Boston, MA > > >>> > > >>> 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* > > >>> 1987 Nimble 30 *For Sale* > > >>> 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* > > >>> > > >>> On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 10:14 AM Richard Stott < > > >> ric at stottarchitecture.com> > > >>> wrote: > > >>> > > >>>> Cary > > >>>> My ?84 GB mount broke on spring launch the year and my Yamaha 8 went > > in > > >>>> the drink. > > >>>> I purchased a motor mount from West marine immediately so I could > > >> continue > > >>>> to use the boat with a spare motor I happened to have on hand. > > >>>> Its a stinky smoky ?99 Merc 2 stroke, but it always starts and runs > > when > > >>>> it need it - well almost always. > > >>>> I talked it over on the list and discussed with Mike Riter a plan to > > >>>> convert the GB mount to be equipped with a threaded gear (his > sketch) > > so > > >>>> that the mont can be moved with a manual crank or an electric motor. > > >>>> This would be huge advantage over the 6/1 tackle it came equipped > > with. > > >>>> I?ve been enjoying the boat too much to stop and refine that design > of > > >>>> Mikes - that?s a winter project. > > >>>> > > >>>> In any case the parallelogram type mount works fairly well, it has > > pros > > >>>> and cons. > > >>>> One of the biggest cons is that the moro in the down position is > > father > > >>>> aft of the transom and will cavitate and lose thrust in larger > waves, > > >>>> especially with weight on the bow. > > >>>> I will like the GB system (modified) over the alternative, but the > > West > > >>>> marine mount was easy to install and serves the immediate need. > > >>>> (What I really want is an electric, steerable, remote controlled, > 20 > > hp > > >>>> sail drive mounted right behind the keel trunk.) > > >>>> It?s doable for approximately one tone of money. > > >>>> > > >>>> One way I use the boat is unusual. > > >>>> I moore my boat 50 yards off shore. > > >>>> I use a stand-up paddle board for a tender because it's light and > easy > > >> to > > >>>> cary to the shore. > > >>>> I then use the motor only, with the rudder up, to back the boat on > to > > >> the > > >>>> beach to pick up provisions and of course my wife, who is not one > to > > >>>> paddle out to the boat. > > >>>> Depending on the tide and the slope of the beach, I can sometimes > put > > >> the > > >>>> stern right on the beach. > > >>>> An opening in the stern rail, like the more modern R22s would be a > > huge > > >>>> asset for picking up passengers from the beach. (next year) > > >>>> Ric > > >>>> sv Dadventure > > >>>> stay tuned for ?motor mount mod? updates > > >>>> > > >>>> > > >>>> > > >>>> Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP > > >>>> www.stottarchitecture.com > > >>>> Office 631-283-1777 > > >>>> Cell 516-965-3164 > > >>>> > > >>>> > > >>>> > > >>>> > > >>>> > > >>>>> On Aug 26, 2020, at 9:19 AM, Cary Tolbert > > >> wrote: > > >>>>> > > >>>>> Preview attachment 20200825_174517.jpg > > >>>>> 20200825_174517.jpg > > >>>>> 4 MB > > >>>>> < > > >>>> > > >> > > > https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=be1ab8c6c5&attid=0.1&permmsgid=msg-a:r-7374969717110164997&th=1742adb6a4937cb8&view=att&disp=safe&realattid=1742adb12d8c3f23bf81 > > >>>>> Once > > >>>>> again HELP. Wed. the 25th I was motoring from my slip out on to the > > >> lake > > >>>>> and kerplunk. The motor raising part of the boat fell off with the > > >> motor > > >>>>> attached and still running. I also had it attached with a s/s > chain. > > >>>> Lucky > > >>>>> or not.? ? ? Stan no longer makes the parts for an 86. He said he > has > > >>>> long > > >>>>> moved to newer and hopefully better designs. It seems the starboard > > >>>>> material used to let the motor slide in the rails failed. My > question > > >> is > > >>>>> should I attempt to repair with parts of better materials or buy a > > >>>>> gerneric system for raising and lowering one's motor . Say > something > > >>>> that > > >>>>> would fit a Catalina 22? Looking for advice from the centuries of > > >>>>> experience on the list > > >>>>> Cary Tolbert S/V Whisper '86 > > >>>>> Radford, VA > > >>>> > > >>>> > > >>> > > >>> -- > > >>> Boston, MA > > >>> > > >>> 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* > > >>> 1986 Nimble 30 *For Sale* > > >>> 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* > > >> > > >> > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > > Name: 20200824_165705.jpg > > > Type: image/jpeg > > > Size: 652767 bytes > > > Desc: not available > > > URL: < > > > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200826/730b3b80/attachment.jpg > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > > Name: Rhodes 22 MA CL 03.jpg > > > Type: image/jpeg > > > Size: 61722 bytes > > > Desc: not available > > > URL: < > > > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200826/730b3b80/attachment-0001.jpg > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > > Name: Rhodes 22 MA CL 04.jpg > > > Type: image/jpeg > > > Size: 79585 bytes > > > Desc: not available > > > URL: < > > > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200826/730b3b80/attachment-0002.jpg > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > > Name: Rhodes 22 MA CL 08.jpg > > > Type: image/jpeg > > > Size: 200670 bytes > > > Desc: not available > > > URL: < > > > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200826/730b3b80/attachment-0003.jpg > > > > > > > > From rlowe at vt.edu Wed Aug 26 12:09:14 2020 From: rlowe at vt.edu (Lowe, Rob) Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2020 16:09:14 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] motor broke away In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Ah, OK. I see now. So you could replace the ears if you can find a material you can work with. - rob -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of Cary Tolbert Sent: Wednesday, August 26, 2020 9:37 AM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] motor broke away Rob, it was the port side upper ear that rides in the tracks. When the starboard rails failed 2-3 years ago Stan said to get a local machine shop to replicate the rails with brass or aluminium. So I was able to replace the rails with the aluminium ones. Even starboard deteriorates with time. It becomes brittle. The same thing happened to the IMF parts also made with starboard material. Cary Tolbert On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 9:29 AM Lowe, Rob wrote: > Cary, > What part(s) actually failed? I see the photo but it's unclear to me > what broke or failed. I don't have the same lift so I'm not much help > here. - rob > > -----Original Message----- > From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of > Cary Tolbert > Sent: Wednesday, August 26, 2020 9:19 AM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: [Rhodes22-list] motor broke away > > Preview attachment 20200825_174517.jpg 20200825_174517.jpg > 4 MB > < > https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=be1ab8c6c5&attid=0.1&permmsgi > d=msg-a:r-7374969717110164997&th=1742adb6a4937cb8&view=att&disp=safe&r > ealattid=1742adb12d8c3f23bf81 > >Once > again HELP. Wed. the 25th I was motoring from my slip out on to the > lake and kerplunk. The motor raising part of the boat fell off with > the motor attached and still running. I also had it attached with a > s/s chain. Lucky or not.? ? ? Stan no longer makes the parts for an > 86. He said he has long moved to newer and hopefully better designs. > It seems the starboard material used to let the motor slide in the > rails failed. My question is should I attempt to repair with parts of > better materials or buy a gerneric system for raising and lowering > one's motor . Say something that would fit a Catalina 22? Looking for > advice from the centuries of experience on the list Cary Tolbert S/V > Whisper '86 Radford, VA > From retiredtoby at gmail.com Wed Aug 26 12:36:26 2020 From: retiredtoby at gmail.com (Cary Tolbert) Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2020 12:36:26 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] motor broke away In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Rob, I am sure there is some ware as far as size goes. Checking today I see the stop came off. Must be in the lake. On Wed, Aug 26, 2020, 12:09 PM Lowe, Rob wrote: > Ah, OK. I see now. So you could replace the ears if you can find a > material you can work with. - rob > > -----Original Message----- > From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of > Cary Tolbert > Sent: Wednesday, August 26, 2020 9:37 AM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] motor broke away > > Rob, it was the port side upper ear that rides in the tracks. When the > starboard rails failed 2-3 years ago Stan said to get a local machine shop > to replicate the rails with brass or aluminium. So I was able to replace > the rails with the aluminium ones. Even starboard deteriorates with time. > It becomes brittle. The same thing happened to the IMF parts also made > with starboard material. > Cary Tolbert > > On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 9:29 AM Lowe, Rob wrote: > > > Cary, > > What part(s) actually failed? I see the photo but it's unclear to me > > what broke or failed. I don't have the same lift so I'm not much help > > here. - rob > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of > > Cary Tolbert > > Sent: Wednesday, August 26, 2020 9:19 AM > > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > > Subject: [Rhodes22-list] motor broke away > > > > Preview attachment 20200825_174517.jpg 20200825_174517.jpg > > 4 MB > > < > > https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=be1ab8c6c5&attid=0.1&permmsgi > > d=msg-a:r-7374969717110164997&th=1742adb6a4937cb8&view=att&disp=safe&r > > ealattid=1742adb12d8c3f23bf81 > > >Once > > again HELP. Wed. the 25th I was motoring from my slip out on to the > > lake and kerplunk. The motor raising part of the boat fell off with > > the motor attached and still running. I also had it attached with a > > s/s chain. Lucky or not.? ? ? Stan no longer makes the parts for an > > 86. He said he has long moved to newer and hopefully better designs. > > It seems the starboard material used to let the motor slide in the > > rails failed. My question is should I attempt to repair with parts of > > better materials or buy a gerneric system for raising and lowering > > one's motor . Say something that would fit a Catalina 22? Looking for > > advice from the centuries of experience on the list Cary Tolbert S/V > > Whisper '86 Radford, VA > > > From tavares0947 at gmail.com Wed Aug 26 12:43:17 2020 From: tavares0947 at gmail.com (Todd Tavares) Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2020 12:43:17 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Saildrive In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Richard, Can you post pics of your saildrive setup? Sounds very intriguing. Todd T tavares0947 at gmail.com On Wed, Aug 26, 2020, 10:44 AM Mark Whipple wrote: > Hi Richard, > > I purchased my 2000 R22 last year and it came with a 15hp Yamaha saildrive. > I haven't had a chance to use the boat much yet, but it seems like it will > address many of the issues with an outboard on the transom > (raising/lowering, keeping the drive underwater). > > Unfortunately the company that made this saildrive is essentially out of > business. I am concerned about what I'll have to do once this saildrive > needs a part I can't get or needs a costly repair. I'm not sure I like the > alternative solutions that involve a motor on the transom. Maybe I need to > start saving my pennies toward a replacement. Regarding that option, the > saildrives I've seen tend to have larger engine than mine - often a diesel. > Mine is essentially a Yamaha (made by Parsun) outboard head so it's not > very tall. Maybe I'll be lucky and not have to solve the replacement > problem. > > Mark > > -- > Boston, MA > > 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* > 1987 Nimble 30 *For Sale* > 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* > > On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 10:14 AM Richard Stott > wrote: > > > Cary > > My ?84 GB mount broke on spring launch the year and my Yamaha 8 went in > > the drink. > > I purchased a motor mount from West marine immediately so I could > continue > > to use the boat with a spare motor I happened to have on hand. > > Its a stinky smoky ?99 Merc 2 stroke, but it always starts and runs when > > it need it - well almost always. > > I talked it over on the list and discussed with Mike Riter a plan to > > convert the GB mount to be equipped with a threaded gear (his sketch) so > > that the mont can be moved with a manual crank or an electric motor. > > This would be huge advantage over the 6/1 tackle it came equipped with. > > I?ve been enjoying the boat too much to stop and refine that design of > > Mikes - that?s a winter project. > > > > In any case the parallelogram type mount works fairly well, it has pros > > and cons. > > One of the biggest cons is that the moro in the down position is father > > aft of the transom and will cavitate and lose thrust in larger waves, > > especially with weight on the bow. > > I will like the GB system (modified) over the alternative, but the West > > marine mount was easy to install and serves the immediate need. > > (What I really want is an electric, steerable, remote controlled, 20 hp > > sail drive mounted right behind the keel trunk.) > > It?s doable for approximately one tone of money. > > > > One way I use the boat is unusual. > > I moore my boat 50 yards off shore. > > I use a stand-up paddle board for a tender because it's light and easy to > > cary to the shore. > > I then use the motor only, with the rudder up, to back the boat on to the > > beach to pick up provisions and of course my wife, who is not one to > > paddle out to the boat. > > Depending on the tide and the slope of the beach, I can sometimes put the > > stern right on the beach. > > An opening in the stern rail, like the more modern R22s would be a huge > > asset for picking up passengers from the beach. (next year) > > Ric > > sv Dadventure > > stay tuned for ?motor mount mod? updates > > > > > > > > Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP > > www.stottarchitecture.com > > Office 631-283-1777 > > Cell 516-965-3164 > > > > > > > > > > > > > On Aug 26, 2020, at 9:19 AM, Cary Tolbert > wrote: > > > > > > Preview attachment 20200825_174517.jpg > > > 20200825_174517.jpg > > > 4 MB > > > < > > > https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=be1ab8c6c5&attid=0.1&permmsgid=msg-a:r-7374969717110164997&th=1742adb6a4937cb8&view=att&disp=safe&realattid=1742adb12d8c3f23bf81 > > >Once > > > again HELP. Wed. the 25th I was motoring from my slip out on to the > lake > > > and kerplunk. The motor raising part of the boat fell off with the > motor > > > attached and still running. I also had it attached with a s/s chain. > > Lucky > > > or not.? ? ? Stan no longer makes the parts for an 86. He said he has > > long > > > moved to newer and hopefully better designs. It seems the starboard > > > material used to let the motor slide in the rails failed. My question > is > > > should I attempt to repair with parts of better materials or buy a > > > gerneric system for raising and lowering one's motor . Say something > > that > > > would fit a Catalina 22? Looking for advice from the centuries of > > > experience on the list > > > Cary Tolbert S/V Whisper '86 > > > Radford, VA > > > > > > -- > Boston, MA > > 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* > 1986 Nimble 30 *For Sale* > 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* > From sea20 at verizon.net Wed Aug 26 15:17:35 2020 From: sea20 at verizon.net (Scott Andrews) Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2020 15:17:35 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Saildrive In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Electric sail drive would be the ultimate. Sent from my iPhone > On Aug 26, 2020, at 12:06 PM, Jesse Shumaker wrote: > > ?Mark, it sounds like your R22 has even more bells and whistles than most! > I'm curious about your self tending jib. I've only seen that feature on > larger boats such as Island Packets. Have you found the self tending jib > to work well? > > Jesse Shumaker > S/V Zephyr > >> On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 10:42 AM Mark Whipple >> wrote: >> >> FWIW, I'm pretty sure the drive is at about the same depth as the keel. >> I'll try to take a picture from the side later today. Also the rudder >> redirects some of the prop wash since the prop is in front. I haven't >> had it in the water yet this year (soon!) but I recall the feeling of the >> prop wash on the wheel was a little weird. Yes, my boat has a wheel and a >> self-tending jib, too. Not sure if it will get up on a plane. We'll see. >> >> Mark >> >> On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 11:31 AM Ric Stott >> wrote: >> >>> Cory - that?s a really interesting install. >>> Is 15 HP enough to get on a plane? >>> It would not work for my needs - it?s too deep. >>> I would need the prop to be no deeper than the bottom of the keel, and I >>> would mount it in the middle of the cockpit floor, about a foot aft of >> the >>> end of the keel, understanding that the motor head (probably electric >> and >>> smaller than the Yamaha head) would require a low cover above the cockpit >>> floor. >>> I would also like it to be a steerable sail drive with a remote. >>> Not sure that such a thing is even available. >>> Thanks >>> >>> Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP >>> www.stottarchitecture.com >>> Office 631-283-1777 >>> Cell 516-965-3164 >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>>> On Aug 26, 2020, at 11:18 AM, Mark Whipple >>> wrote: >>>> >>>> Ric, >>>> >>>> Here's a few pictures I dug up. I'm currently hunting for a source for >>> the >>>> zincs. >>>> >>>> Mark >>>> [image: Rhodes 22 MA CL 03.jpg] >>>> [image: Rhodes 22 MA CL 04.jpg] >>>> [image: Rhodes 22 MA CL 08.jpg] >>>> >>>> >>>> [image: 20200824_165705.jpg] >>>> >>>> On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 10:53 AM Richard Stott < >>> ric at stottarchitecture.com> >>>> wrote: >>>> >>>>> Mark >>>>> 15 HP is a lot of motor. >>>>> Can you show us a pic of where its mounted? >>>>> Any pics of it under the boat? >>>>> Can you share performance and maneuverability with us? >>>>> I?m dying to know more about this. >>>>> A steerable unit is my fantasy but a fixed one might work. >>>>> Ric >>>>> sv Dadventure >>>>> HBNY >>>>> >>>>> Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP >>>>> www.stottarchitecture.com >>>>> Office 631-283-1777 >>>>> Cell 516-965-3164 >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>>> On Aug 26, 2020, at 10:43 AM, Mark Whipple >>>>> wrote: >>>>>> >>>>>> Hi Richard, >>>>>> >>>>>> I purchased my 2000 R22 last year and it came with a 15hp Yamaha >>>>> saildrive. >>>>>> I haven't had a chance to use the boat much yet, but it seems like it >>>>> will >>>>>> address many of the issues with an outboard on the transom >>>>>> (raising/lowering, keeping the drive underwater). >>>>>> >>>>>> Unfortunately the company that made this saildrive is essentially out >>> of >>>>>> business. I am concerned about what I'll have to do once this >> saildrive >>>>>> needs a part I can't get or needs a costly repair. I'm not sure I >> like >>>>> the >>>>>> alternative solutions that involve a motor on the transom. Maybe I >> need >>>>> to >>>>>> start saving my pennies toward a replacement. Regarding that option, >>> the >>>>>> saildrives I've seen tend to have larger engine than mine - often a >>>>> diesel. >>>>>> Mine is essentially a Yamaha (made by Parsun) outboard head so it's >> not >>>>>> very tall. Maybe I'll be lucky and not have to solve the replacement >>>>>> problem. >>>>>> >>>>>> Mark >>>>>> >>>>>> -- >>>>>> Boston, MA >>>>>> >>>>>> 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* >>>>>> 1987 Nimble 30 *For Sale* >>>>>> 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* >>>>>> >>>>>> On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 10:14 AM Richard Stott < >>>>> ric at stottarchitecture.com> >>>>>> wrote: >>>>>> >>>>>>> Cary >>>>>>> My ?84 GB mount broke on spring launch the year and my Yamaha 8 went >>> in >>>>>>> the drink. >>>>>>> I purchased a motor mount from West marine immediately so I could >>>>> continue >>>>>>> to use the boat with a spare motor I happened to have on hand. >>>>>>> Its a stinky smoky ?99 Merc 2 stroke, but it always starts and runs >>> when >>>>>>> it need it - well almost always. >>>>>>> I talked it over on the list and discussed with Mike Riter a plan to >>>>>>> convert the GB mount to be equipped with a threaded gear (his >> sketch) >>> so >>>>>>> that the mont can be moved with a manual crank or an electric motor. >>>>>>> This would be huge advantage over the 6/1 tackle it came equipped >>> with. >>>>>>> I?ve been enjoying the boat too much to stop and refine that design >> of >>>>>>> Mikes - that?s a winter project. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> In any case the parallelogram type mount works fairly well, it has >>> pros >>>>>>> and cons. >>>>>>> One of the biggest cons is that the moro in the down position is >>> father >>>>>>> aft of the transom and will cavitate and lose thrust in larger >> waves, >>>>>>> especially with weight on the bow. >>>>>>> I will like the GB system (modified) over the alternative, but the >>> West >>>>>>> marine mount was easy to install and serves the immediate need. >>>>>>> (What I really want is an electric, steerable, remote controlled, >> 20 >>> hp >>>>>>> sail drive mounted right behind the keel trunk.) >>>>>>> It?s doable for approximately one tone of money. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> One way I use the boat is unusual. >>>>>>> I moore my boat 50 yards off shore. >>>>>>> I use a stand-up paddle board for a tender because it's light and >> easy >>>>> to >>>>>>> cary to the shore. >>>>>>> I then use the motor only, with the rudder up, to back the boat on >> to >>>>> the >>>>>>> beach to pick up provisions and of course my wife, who is not one >> to >>>>>>> paddle out to the boat. >>>>>>> Depending on the tide and the slope of the beach, I can sometimes >> put >>>>> the >>>>>>> stern right on the beach. >>>>>>> An opening in the stern rail, like the more modern R22s would be a >>> huge >>>>>>> asset for picking up passengers from the beach. (next year) >>>>>>> Ric >>>>>>> sv Dadventure >>>>>>> stay tuned for ?motor mount mod? updates >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP >>>>>>> www.stottarchitecture.com >>>>>>> Office 631-283-1777 >>>>>>> Cell 516-965-3164 >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>>> On Aug 26, 2020, at 9:19 AM, Cary Tolbert >>>>> wrote: >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Preview attachment 20200825_174517.jpg >>>>>>>> 20200825_174517.jpg >>>>>>>> 4 MB >>>>>>>> < >>>>>>> >>>>> >>> >> https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=be1ab8c6c5&attid=0.1&permmsgid=msg-a:r-7374969717110164997&th=1742adb6a4937cb8&view=att&disp=safe&realattid=1742adb12d8c3f23bf81 >>>>>>>> Once >>>>>>>> again HELP. Wed. the 25th I was motoring from my slip out on to the >>>>> lake >>>>>>>> and kerplunk. The motor raising part of the boat fell off with the >>>>> motor >>>>>>>> attached and still running. I also had it attached with a s/s >> chain. >>>>>>> Lucky >>>>>>>> or not.? ? ? Stan no longer makes the parts for an 86. He said he >> has >>>>>>> long >>>>>>>> moved to newer and hopefully better designs. It seems the starboard >>>>>>>> material used to let the motor slide in the rails failed. My >> question >>>>> is >>>>>>>> should I attempt to repair with parts of better materials or buy a >>>>>>>> gerneric system for raising and lowering one's motor . Say >> something >>>>>>> that >>>>>>>> would fit a Catalina 22? Looking for advice from the centuries of >>>>>>>> experience on the list >>>>>>>> Cary Tolbert S/V Whisper '86 >>>>>>>> Radford, VA >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> -- >>>>>> Boston, MA >>>>>> >>>>>> 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* >>>>>> 1986 Nimble 30 *For Sale* >>>>>> 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* >>>>> >>>>> >>>> -------------- next part -------------- >>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >>>> Name: 20200824_165705.jpg >>>> Type: image/jpeg >>>> Size: 652767 bytes >>>> Desc: not available >>>> URL: < >>> >> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200826/730b3b80/attachment.jpg >>>> >>>> -------------- next part -------------- >>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >>>> Name: Rhodes 22 MA CL 03.jpg >>>> Type: image/jpeg >>>> Size: 61722 bytes >>>> Desc: not available >>>> URL: < >>> >> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200826/730b3b80/attachment-0001.jpg >>>> >>>> -------------- next part -------------- >>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >>>> Name: Rhodes 22 MA CL 04.jpg >>>> Type: image/jpeg >>>> Size: 79585 bytes >>>> Desc: not available >>>> URL: < >>> >> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200826/730b3b80/attachment-0002.jpg >>>> >>>> -------------- next part -------------- >>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >>>> Name: Rhodes 22 MA CL 08.jpg >>>> Type: image/jpeg >>>> Size: 200670 bytes >>>> Desc: not available >>>> URL: < >>> >> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200826/730b3b80/attachment-0003.jpg >>>> >>> >>> >> From jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com Wed Aug 26 15:24:34 2020 From: jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com (JeffSmith) Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2020 12:24:34 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Maine Sailing Anyone? In-Reply-To: <1596909318869-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1596909318869-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <1598469874350-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Radiant returned from Maine yesterday after 2 weeks on the road and sea. After stopping at the local trailer place to replace a tail light (but they both worked yesterday!) We drove for about 9 hours to Rockland and stayed in the Harbor View Hotel for a couple of nights to load and prep the boat. Hotels and restaurants make Emily happy and "Happy wife, etc." Thanks to research by Peter Nyberg we had a good launch at the Snow Park Ramp - the best in my limited experience - with a dock all along side. After a short motor (light wind on the nose) we took a mooring from Lyman Morse in Camden foe a couple of days to explore the town. A night in the Hartstone Inn where the beds were way too soft. And then on to the Fox Island Thoroughfare, where we picked up an open mooring in Perry Creek, where we stayed for three nights. Then on to Stonington for a couple of nights on the dock at billings marine and eventually back "home" to Rockland. The weather was spectacular! Delightful temps in the day and cool evenings as opposed to the high temps and humidity back in NJ. Very few bugs and the few mosquitoes were kept at bay by a THERMACELL device that worked off a camping gas can. Neither of us had a bite. The personnel at the marinas were outstanding!!! Friendly and helpful beyond belief. Shout Outs to Charles and Celia (who was very interested in the R22) at Lyman Morse, Don at Billings and Mark the Harbormaster at Rockland, who helped us get the boat on the trailer. So a few lessons learned on our first cruise: 1. Bring less stuff! The boat is small (duh) and the constant shifting of bags to sleep or open the cabin is a pain. We used half of what we brought. I also brought too many tools, which took up floor space. 2 The Sea Eagle 370 is about as small a dinghy that can be stowed under the seats and is fun - but wet. It tracks very well, so there is not much reason to need to stow it at all. Next time we will tow our small Achilles inflatable. 3. The Igloo Cooler next to the icebox worked well, needing a couple of bags of ice every 2 days - and kept the food, seltzers and beer cold. 4. The Magma grill was good for the usual and even heated up locally bought pizza. Pix are here: >https://www.jeffsmithphoto.net/Rhodes-22-Radiant-2020-Penobscot-Bay-Sailing-Vacation/ ----- Jeff Smith 2009 R22 #101 RADIANT Atlantic Highlands Municpal Harbor Atlantic Highlands, NJ -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com Wed Aug 26 15:38:25 2020 From: jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com (JeffSmith) Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2020 12:38:25 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer question In-Reply-To: References: <0D9881C1-2E30-4CC8-BE51-0A6FE570B849@gmail.com> <7EED7202-4A29-4DFD-8209-001376C3DA2C@gmail.com> <1416938097.5557630.1598389707628@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1598470705114-0.post@n5.nabble.com> My trailer shop recommended Marykate Liquid Rollers, a slippery spray for the carpet. He said his customers swear by it and it seems to work well by me. ----- Jeff Smith 2009 R22 #101 RADIANT Atlantic Highlands Municpal Harbor Atlantic Highlands, NJ -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From rlowe at vt.edu Wed Aug 26 15:53:43 2020 From: rlowe at vt.edu (Lowe, Rob) Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2020 19:53:43 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Maine Sailing Anyone? In-Reply-To: <1598469874350-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1596909318869-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1598469874350-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: Jeff, Great story and great photos. Sounds like a blast of a trip. - rob -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of JeffSmith Sent: Wednesday, August 26, 2020 3:25 PM To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Maine Sailing Anyone? Radiant returned from Maine yesterday after 2 weeks on the road and sea. After stopping at the local trailer place to replace a tail light (but they both worked yesterday!) We drove for about 9 hours to Rockland and stayed in the Harbor View Hotel for a couple of nights to load and prep the boat. Hotels and restaurants make Emily happy and "Happy wife, etc." Thanks to research by Peter Nyberg we had a good launch at the Snow Park Ramp - the best in my limited experience - with a dock all along side. After a short motor (light wind on the nose) we took a mooring from Lyman Morse in Camden foe a couple of days to explore the town. A night in the Hartstone Inn where the beds were way too soft. And then on to the Fox Island Thoroughfare, where we picked up an open mooring in Perry Creek, where we stayed for three nights. Then on to Stonington for a couple of nights on the dock at billings marine and eventually back "home" to Rockland. The weather was spectacular! Delightful temps in the day and cool evenings as opposed to the high temps and humidity back in NJ. Very few bugs and the few mosquitoes were kept at bay by a THERMACELL device that worked off a camping gas can. Neither of us had a bite. The personnel at the marinas were outstanding!!! Friendly and helpful beyond belief. Shout Outs to Charles and Celia (who was very interested in the R22) at Lyman Morse, Don at Billings and Mark the Harbormaster at Rockland, who helped us get the boat on the trailer. So a few lessons learned on our first cruise: 1. Bring less stuff! The boat is small (duh) and the constant shifting of bags to sleep or open the cabin is a pain. We used half of what we brought. I also brought too many tools, which took up floor space. 2 The Sea Eagle 370 is about as small a dinghy that can be stowed under the seats and is fun - but wet. It tracks very well, so there is not much reason to need to stow it at all. Next time we will tow our small Achilles inflatable. 3. The Igloo Cooler next to the icebox worked well, needing a couple of bags of ice every 2 days - and kept the food, seltzers and beer cold. 4. The Magma grill was good for the usual and even heated up locally bought pizza. Pix are here: >https://www.jeffsmithphoto.net/Rhodes-22-Radiant-2020-Penobscot-Bay-Sai >ling-Vacation/ ----- Jeff Smith 2009 R22 #101 RADIANT Atlantic Highlands Municpal Harbor Atlantic Highlands, NJ -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From keywestseccorp at verizon.net Wed Aug 26 15:55:06 2020 From: keywestseccorp at verizon.net (Mark West) Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2020 19:55:06 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer question In-Reply-To: <1598470705114-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <0D9881C1-2E30-4CC8-BE51-0A6FE570B849@gmail.com> <7EED7202-4A29-4DFD-8209-001376C3DA2C@gmail.com> <1416938097.5557630.1598389707628@mail.yahoo.com> <1598470705114-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <1347582250.5937201.1598471706804@mail.yahoo.com> my boat settles on its bunks like cradles? and rises up off them when launched? slick stuff on carpet ok if winching it up the rails like some ski boats my thought? ?Mark? -----Original Message----- From: JeffSmith To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Sent: Wed, Aug 26, 2020 3:38 pm Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer question My trailer shop recommended Marykate Liquid Rollers, a slippery spray for the carpet.? He said his customers swear by it and it seems to work well by me. ----- Jeff Smith 2009 R22 #101 RADIANT Atlantic Highlands Municpal Harbor Atlantic Highlands, NJ -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com Wed Aug 26 15:56:35 2020 From: jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com (Jesse Shumaker) Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2020 14:56:35 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Maine Sailing Anyone? In-Reply-To: <1598469874350-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1596909318869-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1598469874350-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: Jeff, thanks for sharing the trip and photos. It's good to know your experience with the Sea Eagle 370. I'll be using that as a dinghy for the first time on a road trip to a bigger lake over Labor Day weekend. Nice idea for the sunshade for the chart plotter. I had put some magnets to mount an Android tablet running Open CPN in that location, but then realized the glare from the sun is problematic. Jesse Shumaker S/V Zephyr On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 2:24 PM JeffSmith wrote: > Radiant returned from Maine yesterday after 2 weeks on the road and sea. > After stopping at the local trailer place to replace a tail light (but they > both worked yesterday!) We drove for about 9 hours to Rockland and stayed > in > the Harbor View Hotel for a couple of nights to load and prep the boat. > Hotels and restaurants make Emily happy and "Happy wife, etc." Thanks to > research by Peter Nyberg we had a good launch at the Snow Park Ramp - the > best in my limited experience - with a dock all along side. > After a short motor (light wind on the nose) we took a mooring from Lyman > Morse in Camden foe a couple of days to explore the town. A night in the > Hartstone Inn where the beds were way too soft. And then on to the Fox > Island Thoroughfare, where we picked up an open mooring in Perry Creek, > where we stayed for three nights. > Then on to Stonington for a couple of nights on the dock at billings marine > and eventually back "home" to Rockland. > The weather was spectacular! Delightful temps in the day and cool evenings > as opposed to the high temps and humidity back in NJ. Very few bugs and the > few mosquitoes were kept at bay by a THERMACELL device that worked off a > camping gas can. Neither of us had a bite. > The personnel at the marinas were outstanding!!! Friendly and helpful > beyond > belief. Shout Outs to Charles and Celia (who was very interested in the > R22) > at Lyman Morse, Don at Billings and Mark the Harbormaster at Rockland, who > helped us get the boat on the trailer. > So a few lessons learned on our first cruise: > > 1. Bring less stuff! The boat is small (duh) and the constant shifting of > bags to sleep or open the cabin is > a pain. We used half of what we brought. I also brought too many tools, > which took up floor space. > 2 The Sea Eagle 370 is about as small a dinghy that can be stowed under the > seats and is fun - but wet. > It tracks very well, so there is not much reason to need to stow it at > all. Next time we will tow our > small Achilles inflatable. > 3. The Igloo Cooler next to the icebox worked well, needing a couple of > bags > of ice every 2 days - and > kept the food, seltzers and beer cold. > 4. The Magma grill was good for the usual and even heated up locally > bought > pizza. > > Pix are here: > > > https://www.jeffsmithphoto.net/Rhodes-22-Radiant-2020-Penobscot-Bay-Sailing-Vacation/ > > > > ----- > Jeff Smith > 2009 R22 #101 RADIANT > Atlantic Highlands Municpal Harbor > Atlantic Highlands, NJ > > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > From jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com Wed Aug 26 16:07:53 2020 From: jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com (JeffSmith) Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2020 13:07:53 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Maine Sailing Anyone? In-Reply-To: References: <1596909318869-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1598469874350-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <1598472473040-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Thanks Jesse, Give me corrugated plastic, Gorilla Tape, pop-rivets and Velcro and I can build a 747. It may not fly, but still... ----- Jeff Smith 2009 R22 #101 RADIANT Atlantic Highlands Municpal Harbor Atlantic Highlands, NJ -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From peter at sunnybeeches.com Wed Aug 26 16:19:29 2020 From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg) Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2020 16:19:29 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer question In-Reply-To: <1347582250.5937201.1598471706804@mail.yahoo.com> References: <0D9881C1-2E30-4CC8-BE51-0A6FE570B849@gmail.com> <7EED7202-4A29-4DFD-8209-001376C3DA2C@gmail.com> <1416938097.5557630.1598389707628@mail.yahoo.com> <1598470705114-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1347582250.5937201.1598471706804@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <2A4AF9C5-D8A0-41D6-906E-9F64AB0B28F9@sunnybeeches.com> When I retrieved my boat at the ramp at Snow Marine Park in Rockland, it was dead low tide. The tidal range in this area is 10 feet or better. The top of the ramp is pretty steep, but the bottom levels out quite a bit. When I was down the ramp far enough that the tailpipe of my Toyota Tacoma was blowing bubbles, the front end of the bunks were still about 4? above the surface of the water. I motored onto the trailer as fast as I dared, but came to a stop about 30? short of where I needed the boat to be on the trailer. I tried to back the boat off the trailer for another run, but found I was stuck. My only option was to try to winch the boat forward on the trailer. I had no idea if this would actually work, but it did. Actually, since the trailer was close to level, the boat ended up farther forward on the trailer than I think it?s ever been before. Two lessons from this experience: 1) slippery bunks can be a very good thing. 2) launching at this ramp at low tide would not be possible. ?Peter > On Aug 26, 2020, at 3:55 PM, Mark West via Rhodes22-list wrote: > > my boat settles on its bunks like cradles and rises up off them when launched slick stuff on carpet ok if winching it up the rails like some ski boats my thought Mark > > > -----Original Message----- > From: JeffSmith > To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org > Sent: Wed, Aug 26, 2020 3:38 pm > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer question > > My trailer shop recommended Marykate Liquid Rollers, a slippery spray for the > carpet. He said his customers swear by it and it seems to work well by me. > > > > ----- > Jeff Smith > 2009 R22 #101 RADIANT > Atlantic Highlands Municpal Harbor > Atlantic Highlands, NJ > > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From peter at sunnybeeches.com Wed Aug 26 16:26:36 2020 From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg) Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2020 16:26:36 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Maine Sailing Anyone? In-Reply-To: <1598469874350-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1596909318869-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1598469874350-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <443B5AF8-D7C5-440A-9CC2-E4E87628FFF9@sunnybeeches.com> Jeff, Happy to hear that your trip was a success. Your choice of destinations was quite different from mine, but different strokes? So the same Harbormaster who told you there was absolutely no overnight parking at Snow Park helped you put your boat on the trailer? I?m still a bit puzzled by this whole parking thing. But I assume, like me, your parking experience was just fine. I?ll probably be going back for another one week cruise in September. ?Peter > On Aug 26, 2020, at 3:24 PM, JeffSmith wrote: > > Radiant returned from Maine yesterday after 2 weeks on the road and sea. > After stopping at the local trailer place to replace a tail light (but they > both worked yesterday!) We drove for about 9 hours to Rockland and stayed in > the Harbor View Hotel for a couple of nights to load and prep the boat. > Hotels and restaurants make Emily happy and "Happy wife, etc." Thanks to > research by Peter Nyberg we had a good launch at the Snow Park Ramp - the > best in my limited experience - with a dock all along side. > After a short motor (light wind on the nose) we took a mooring from Lyman > Morse in Camden foe a couple of days to explore the town. A night in the > Hartstone Inn where the beds were way too soft. And then on to the Fox > Island Thoroughfare, where we picked up an open mooring in Perry Creek, > where we stayed for three nights. > Then on to Stonington for a couple of nights on the dock at billings marine > and eventually back "home" to Rockland. > The weather was spectacular! Delightful temps in the day and cool evenings > as opposed to the high temps and humidity back in NJ. Very few bugs and the > few mosquitoes were kept at bay by a THERMACELL device that worked off a > camping gas can. Neither of us had a bite. > The personnel at the marinas were outstanding!!! Friendly and helpful beyond > belief. Shout Outs to Charles and Celia (who was very interested in the R22) > at Lyman Morse, Don at Billings and Mark the Harbormaster at Rockland, who > helped us get the boat on the trailer. > So a few lessons learned on our first cruise: > > 1. Bring less stuff! The boat is small (duh) and the constant shifting of > bags to sleep or open the cabin is > a pain. We used half of what we brought. I also brought too many tools, > which took up floor space. > 2 The Sea Eagle 370 is about as small a dinghy that can be stowed under the > seats and is fun - but wet. > It tracks very well, so there is not much reason to need to stow it at > all. Next time we will tow our > small Achilles inflatable. > 3. The Igloo Cooler next to the icebox worked well, needing a couple of bags > of ice every 2 days - and > kept the food, seltzers and beer cold. > 4. The Magma grill was good for the usual and even heated up locally bought > pizza. > > Pix are here: >> https://www.jeffsmithphoto.net/Rhodes-22-Radiant-2020-Penobscot-Bay-Sailing-Vacation/ > > > > ----- > Jeff Smith > 2009 R22 #101 RADIANT > Atlantic Highlands Municpal Harbor > Atlantic Highlands, NJ > > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From tom.vanheule at intrinsicprograms.com Wed Aug 26 16:33:25 2020 From: tom.vanheule at intrinsicprograms.com (Tom Van Heule) Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2020 15:33:25 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Saildrive In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Stan had mentioned to me he had an idea where it would even retract, based on some torqueedo parts. On Wed, Aug 26, 2020, 2:17 PM Scott Andrews via Rhodes22-list < rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote: > Electric sail drive would be the ultimate. > > Sent from my iPhone > > > On Aug 26, 2020, at 12:06 PM, Jesse Shumaker < > jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com> wrote: > > > > ?Mark, it sounds like your R22 has even more bells and whistles than > most! > > I'm curious about your self tending jib. I've only seen that feature on > > larger boats such as Island Packets. Have you found the self tending jib > > to work well? > > > > Jesse Shumaker > > S/V Zephyr > > > >> On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 10:42 AM Mark Whipple > >> wrote: > >> > >> FWIW, I'm pretty sure the drive is at about the same depth as the keel. > >> I'll try to take a picture from the side later today. Also the rudder > >> redirects some of the prop wash since the prop is in front. I haven't > >> had it in the water yet this year (soon!) but I recall the feeling of > the > >> prop wash on the wheel was a little weird. Yes, my boat has a wheel and > a > >> self-tending jib, too. Not sure if it will get up on a plane. We'll see. > >> > >> Mark > >> > >> On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 11:31 AM Ric Stott > >> wrote: > >> > >>> Cory - that?s a really interesting install. > >>> Is 15 HP enough to get on a plane? > >>> It would not work for my needs - it?s too deep. > >>> I would need the prop to be no deeper than the bottom of the keel, and > I > >>> would mount it in the middle of the cockpit floor, about a foot aft of > >> the > >>> end of the keel, understanding that the motor head (probably electric > >> and > >>> smaller than the Yamaha head) would require a low cover above the > cockpit > >>> floor. > >>> I would also like it to be a steerable sail drive with a remote. > >>> Not sure that such a thing is even available. > >>> Thanks > >>> > >>> Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP > >>> www.stottarchitecture.com > >>> Office 631-283-1777 > >>> Cell 516-965-3164 > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>>> On Aug 26, 2020, at 11:18 AM, Mark Whipple > >>> wrote: > >>>> > >>>> Ric, > >>>> > >>>> Here's a few pictures I dug up. I'm currently hunting for a source for > >>> the > >>>> zincs. > >>>> > >>>> Mark > >>>> [image: Rhodes 22 MA CL 03.jpg] > >>>> [image: Rhodes 22 MA CL 04.jpg] > >>>> [image: Rhodes 22 MA CL 08.jpg] > >>>> > >>>> > >>>> [image: 20200824_165705.jpg] > >>>> > >>>> On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 10:53 AM Richard Stott < > >>> ric at stottarchitecture.com> > >>>> wrote: > >>>> > >>>>> Mark > >>>>> 15 HP is a lot of motor. > >>>>> Can you show us a pic of where its mounted? > >>>>> Any pics of it under the boat? > >>>>> Can you share performance and maneuverability with us? > >>>>> I?m dying to know more about this. > >>>>> A steerable unit is my fantasy but a fixed one might work. > >>>>> Ric > >>>>> sv Dadventure > >>>>> HBNY > >>>>> > >>>>> Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP > >>>>> www.stottarchitecture.com > >>>>> Office 631-283-1777 > >>>>> Cell 516-965-3164 > >>>>> > >>>>> > >>>>> > >>>>> > >>>>> > >>>>>> On Aug 26, 2020, at 10:43 AM, Mark Whipple > >>>>> wrote: > >>>>>> > >>>>>> Hi Richard, > >>>>>> > >>>>>> I purchased my 2000 R22 last year and it came with a 15hp Yamaha > >>>>> saildrive. > >>>>>> I haven't had a chance to use the boat much yet, but it seems like > it > >>>>> will > >>>>>> address many of the issues with an outboard on the transom > >>>>>> (raising/lowering, keeping the drive underwater). > >>>>>> > >>>>>> Unfortunately the company that made this saildrive is essentially > out > >>> of > >>>>>> business. I am concerned about what I'll have to do once this > >> saildrive > >>>>>> needs a part I can't get or needs a costly repair. I'm not sure I > >> like > >>>>> the > >>>>>> alternative solutions that involve a motor on the transom. Maybe I > >> need > >>>>> to > >>>>>> start saving my pennies toward a replacement. Regarding that option, > >>> the > >>>>>> saildrives I've seen tend to have larger engine than mine - often a > >>>>> diesel. > >>>>>> Mine is essentially a Yamaha (made by Parsun) outboard head so it's > >> not > >>>>>> very tall. Maybe I'll be lucky and not have to solve the replacement > >>>>>> problem. > >>>>>> > >>>>>> Mark > >>>>>> > >>>>>> -- > >>>>>> Boston, MA > >>>>>> > >>>>>> 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* > >>>>>> 1987 Nimble 30 *For Sale* > >>>>>> 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* > >>>>>> > >>>>>> On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 10:14 AM Richard Stott < > >>>>> ric at stottarchitecture.com> > >>>>>> wrote: > >>>>>> > >>>>>>> Cary > >>>>>>> My ?84 GB mount broke on spring launch the year and my Yamaha 8 > went > >>> in > >>>>>>> the drink. > >>>>>>> I purchased a motor mount from West marine immediately so I could > >>>>> continue > >>>>>>> to use the boat with a spare motor I happened to have on hand. > >>>>>>> Its a stinky smoky ?99 Merc 2 stroke, but it always starts and runs > >>> when > >>>>>>> it need it - well almost always. > >>>>>>> I talked it over on the list and discussed with Mike Riter a plan > to > >>>>>>> convert the GB mount to be equipped with a threaded gear (his > >> sketch) > >>> so > >>>>>>> that the mont can be moved with a manual crank or an electric > motor. > >>>>>>> This would be huge advantage over the 6/1 tackle it came equipped > >>> with. > >>>>>>> I?ve been enjoying the boat too much to stop and refine that design > >> of > >>>>>>> Mikes - that?s a winter project. > >>>>>>> > >>>>>>> In any case the parallelogram type mount works fairly well, it has > >>> pros > >>>>>>> and cons. > >>>>>>> One of the biggest cons is that the moro in the down position is > >>> father > >>>>>>> aft of the transom and will cavitate and lose thrust in larger > >> waves, > >>>>>>> especially with weight on the bow. > >>>>>>> I will like the GB system (modified) over the alternative, but the > >>> West > >>>>>>> marine mount was easy to install and serves the immediate need. > >>>>>>> (What I really want is an electric, steerable, remote controlled, > >> 20 > >>> hp > >>>>>>> sail drive mounted right behind the keel trunk.) > >>>>>>> It?s doable for approximately one tone of money. > >>>>>>> > >>>>>>> One way I use the boat is unusual. > >>>>>>> I moore my boat 50 yards off shore. > >>>>>>> I use a stand-up paddle board for a tender because it's light and > >> easy > >>>>> to > >>>>>>> cary to the shore. > >>>>>>> I then use the motor only, with the rudder up, to back the boat on > >> to > >>>>> the > >>>>>>> beach to pick up provisions and of course my wife, who is not one > >> to > >>>>>>> paddle out to the boat. > >>>>>>> Depending on the tide and the slope of the beach, I can sometimes > >> put > >>>>> the > >>>>>>> stern right on the beach. > >>>>>>> An opening in the stern rail, like the more modern R22s would be a > >>> huge > >>>>>>> asset for picking up passengers from the beach. (next year) > >>>>>>> Ric > >>>>>>> sv Dadventure > >>>>>>> stay tuned for ?motor mount mod? updates > >>>>>>> > >>>>>>> > >>>>>>> > >>>>>>> Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP > >>>>>>> www.stottarchitecture.com > >>>>>>> Office 631-283-1777 > >>>>>>> Cell 516-965-3164 > >>>>>>> > >>>>>>> > >>>>>>> > >>>>>>> > >>>>>>> > >>>>>>>> On Aug 26, 2020, at 9:19 AM, Cary Tolbert > >>>>> wrote: > >>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>> Preview attachment 20200825_174517.jpg > >>>>>>>> 20200825_174517.jpg > >>>>>>>> 4 MB > >>>>>>>> < > >>>>>>> > >>>>> > >>> > >> > https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=be1ab8c6c5&attid=0.1&permmsgid=msg-a:r-7374969717110164997&th=1742adb6a4937cb8&view=att&disp=safe&realattid=1742adb12d8c3f23bf81 > >>>>>>>> Once > >>>>>>>> again HELP. Wed. the 25th I was motoring from my slip out on to > the > >>>>> lake > >>>>>>>> and kerplunk. The motor raising part of the boat fell off with the > >>>>> motor > >>>>>>>> attached and still running. I also had it attached with a s/s > >> chain. > >>>>>>> Lucky > >>>>>>>> or not.? ? ? Stan no longer makes the parts for an 86. He said he > >> has > >>>>>>> long > >>>>>>>> moved to newer and hopefully better designs. It seems the > starboard > >>>>>>>> material used to let the motor slide in the rails failed. My > >> question > >>>>> is > >>>>>>>> should I attempt to repair with parts of better materials or buy a > >>>>>>>> gerneric system for raising and lowering one's motor . Say > >> something > >>>>>>> that > >>>>>>>> would fit a Catalina 22? Looking for advice from the centuries of > >>>>>>>> experience on the list > >>>>>>>> Cary Tolbert S/V Whisper '86 > >>>>>>>> Radford, VA > >>>>>>> > >>>>>>> > >>>>>> > >>>>>> -- > >>>>>> Boston, MA > >>>>>> > >>>>>> 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* > >>>>>> 1986 Nimble 30 *For Sale* > >>>>>> 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* > >>>>> > >>>>> > >>>> -------------- next part -------------- > >>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > >>>> Name: 20200824_165705.jpg > >>>> Type: image/jpeg > >>>> Size: 652767 bytes > >>>> Desc: not available > >>>> URL: < > >>> > >> > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200826/730b3b80/attachment.jpg > >>>> > >>>> -------------- next part -------------- > >>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > >>>> Name: Rhodes 22 MA CL 03.jpg > >>>> Type: image/jpeg > >>>> Size: 61722 bytes > >>>> Desc: not available > >>>> URL: < > >>> > >> > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200826/730b3b80/attachment-0001.jpg > >>>> > >>>> -------------- next part -------------- > >>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > >>>> Name: Rhodes 22 MA CL 04.jpg > >>>> Type: image/jpeg > >>>> Size: 79585 bytes > >>>> Desc: not available > >>>> URL: < > >>> > >> > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200826/730b3b80/attachment-0002.jpg > >>>> > >>>> -------------- next part -------------- > >>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > >>>> Name: Rhodes 22 MA CL 08.jpg > >>>> Type: image/jpeg > >>>> Size: 200670 bytes > >>>> Desc: not available > >>>> URL: < > >>> > >> > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200826/730b3b80/attachment-0003.jpg > >>>> > >>> > >>> > >> > > From keywestseccorp at verizon.net Wed Aug 26 16:48:08 2020 From: keywestseccorp at verizon.net (Mark West) Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2020 20:48:08 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Saildrive In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <2132503877.5941900.1598474888368@mail.yahoo.com> Believe that sailboat 2 maby 3 years ago was in the Annapolis boat show . think sold to some one on west cost Seattle? Stan did design and build one with Torpedo's equipment mounted inside lazaret? ? Mark -----Original Message----- From: Tom Van Heule To: Scott Andrews ; The Rhodes 22 Email List Sent: Wed, Aug 26, 2020 4:33 pm Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Saildrive Stan had mentioned to me he had an idea where it would even retract, based on some torqueedo parts. On Wed, Aug 26, 2020, 2:17 PM Scott Andrews via Rhodes22-list < rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote: > Electric sail drive would be the ultimate. > > Sent from my iPhone > > > On Aug 26, 2020, at 12:06 PM, Jesse Shumaker < > jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com> wrote: > > > > ?Mark, it sounds like your R22 has even more bells and whistles than > most! > > I'm curious about your self tending jib.? I've only seen that feature on > > larger boats such as Island Packets.? Have you found the self tending jib > > to work well? > > > > Jesse Shumaker > > S/V Zephyr > > > >> On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 10:42 AM Mark Whipple > >> wrote: > >> > >> FWIW, I'm pretty sure the drive is at about the same depth as the keel. > >> I'll try to take a picture from the side later today. Also the rudder > >> redirects some of the prop wash since the prop is in front. I haven't > >> had it in the water yet this year (soon!) but I recall the feeling of > the > >> prop wash on the wheel was a little weird. Yes, my boat has a wheel and > a > >> self-tending jib, too. Not sure if it will get up on a plane. We'll see. > >> > >> Mark > >> > >> On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 11:31 AM Ric Stott > >> wrote: > >> > >>> Cory - that?s a really interesting install. > >>> Is 15 HP enough to get on a plane? > >>> It would not work for my needs - it?s too deep. > >>> I would need the prop to be no deeper than the bottom of the keel, and > I > >>> would mount it in the middle of the cockpit floor, about a foot aft of > >> the > >>> end of the keel,? understanding that the motor head (probably electric > >> and > >>> smaller than the Yamaha head) would require a low cover above the > cockpit > >>> floor. > >>> I would also like it to be a steerable sail drive with a remote. > >>> Not sure that such a thing is even available. > >>> Thanks > >>> > >>> Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP > >>> www.stottarchitecture.com > >>> Office? 631-283-1777 > >>> Cell? ? ? ? ? ? 516-965-3164 > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>>> On Aug 26, 2020, at 11:18 AM, Mark Whipple > >>> wrote: > >>>> > >>>> Ric, > >>>> > >>>> Here's a few pictures I dug up. I'm currently hunting for a source for > >>> the > >>>> zincs. > >>>> > >>>> Mark > >>>> [image: Rhodes 22 MA CL 03.jpg] > >>>> [image: Rhodes 22 MA CL 04.jpg] > >>>> [image: Rhodes 22 MA CL 08.jpg] > >>>> > >>>> > >>>> [image: 20200824_165705.jpg] > >>>> > >>>> On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 10:53 AM Richard Stott < > >>> ric at stottarchitecture.com> > >>>> wrote: > >>>> > >>>>> Mark > >>>>> 15 HP is a lot of motor. > >>>>> Can you show us a pic of where its mounted? > >>>>> Any pics of it under the boat? > >>>>> Can you share performance and maneuverability with us? > >>>>> I?m dying to know more about this. > >>>>> A steerable unit is my fantasy but a fixed one might work. > >>>>> Ric > >>>>> sv Dadventure > >>>>> HBNY > >>>>> > >>>>> Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP > >>>>> www.stottarchitecture.com > >>>>> Office? 631-283-1777 > >>>>> Cell? ? ? ? ? ? 516-965-3164 > >>>>> > >>>>> > >>>>> > >>>>> > >>>>> > >>>>>> On Aug 26, 2020, at 10:43 AM, Mark Whipple > >>>>> wrote: > >>>>>> > >>>>>> Hi Richard, > >>>>>> > >>>>>> I purchased my 2000 R22 last year and it came with a 15hp Yamaha > >>>>> saildrive. > >>>>>> I haven't had a chance to use the boat much yet, but it seems like > it > >>>>> will > >>>>>> address many of the issues with an outboard on the transom > >>>>>> (raising/lowering, keeping the drive underwater). > >>>>>> > >>>>>> Unfortunately the company that made this saildrive is essentially > out > >>> of > >>>>>> business. I am concerned about what I'll have to do once this > >> saildrive > >>>>>> needs a part I can't get or needs a costly repair. I'm not sure I > >> like > >>>>> the > >>>>>> alternative solutions that involve a motor on the transom. Maybe I > >> need > >>>>> to > >>>>>> start saving my pennies toward a replacement. Regarding that option, > >>> the > >>>>>> saildrives I've seen tend to have larger engine than mine - often a > >>>>> diesel. > >>>>>> Mine is essentially a Yamaha (made by Parsun) outboard head so it's > >> not > >>>>>> very tall. Maybe I'll be lucky and not have to solve the replacement > >>>>>> problem. > >>>>>> > >>>>>> Mark > >>>>>> > >>>>>> -- > >>>>>> Boston, MA > >>>>>> > >>>>>> 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* > >>>>>> 1987 Nimble 30 *For Sale* > >>>>>> 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* > >>>>>> > >>>>>> On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 10:14 AM Richard Stott < > >>>>> ric at stottarchitecture.com> > >>>>>> wrote: > >>>>>> > >>>>>>> Cary > >>>>>>> My ?84 GB mount broke on spring launch the year and my Yamaha 8 > went > >>> in > >>>>>>> the drink. > >>>>>>> I purchased a motor mount from West marine immediately so I could > >>>>> continue > >>>>>>> to use the boat with a spare motor I happened to have on hand. > >>>>>>> Its a stinky smoky ?99 Merc 2 stroke, but it always starts and runs > >>> when > >>>>>>> it need it - well almost always. > >>>>>>> I talked it over on the list and discussed with Mike Riter a plan > to > >>>>>>> convert the GB mount to be equipped with a threaded gear (his > >> sketch) > >>> so > >>>>>>> that the mont can be moved with a manual crank or an electric > motor. > >>>>>>> This would be huge advantage over the 6/1 tackle it came equipped > >>> with. > >>>>>>> I?ve been enjoying the boat too much to stop and refine that design > >> of > >>>>>>> Mikes - that?s a winter project. > >>>>>>> > >>>>>>> In any case the parallelogram type mount works fairly well, it has > >>> pros > >>>>>>> and cons. > >>>>>>> One of the biggest cons is that the moro in the down position is > >>> father > >>>>>>> aft of the transom and will cavitate and lose thrust in larger > >> waves, > >>>>>>> especially with weight on the bow. > >>>>>>> I will like the GB system (modified) over the alternative, but the > >>> West > >>>>>>> marine mount was easy to install and serves the immediate need. > >>>>>>> (What I really want is an electric,? steerable, remote controlled, > >> 20 > >>> hp > >>>>>>> sail drive mounted right behind the keel trunk.) > >>>>>>> It?s doable for approximately one tone of money. > >>>>>>> > >>>>>>> One way I use the boat is unusual. > >>>>>>> I moore my boat 50 yards off shore. > >>>>>>> I use a stand-up paddle board for a tender because it's light and > >> easy > >>>>> to > >>>>>>> cary to the shore. > >>>>>>> I then use the motor only, with the rudder up, to back the boat on > >> to > >>>>> the > >>>>>>> beach to pick up? provisions and of course my wife, who is not one > >> to > >>>>>>> paddle out to the boat. > >>>>>>> Depending on the tide and the slope of the beach, I can sometimes > >> put > >>>>> the > >>>>>>> stern right on the beach. > >>>>>>> An opening in the stern rail, like the more modern R22s would be a > >>> huge > >>>>>>> asset for picking up passengers from the beach. (next year) > >>>>>>> Ric > >>>>>>> sv Dadventure > >>>>>>> stay tuned for ?motor mount mod? updates > >>>>>>> > >>>>>>> > >>>>>>> > >>>>>>> Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP > >>>>>>> www.stottarchitecture.com > >>>>>>> Office? 631-283-1777 > >>>>>>> Cell? ? ? ? ? ? 516-965-3164 > >>>>>>> > >>>>>>> > >>>>>>> > >>>>>>> > >>>>>>> > >>>>>>>> On Aug 26, 2020, at 9:19 AM, Cary Tolbert > >>>>> wrote: > >>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>> Preview attachment 20200825_174517.jpg > >>>>>>>> 20200825_174517.jpg > >>>>>>>> 4 MB > >>>>>>>> < > >>>>>>> > >>>>> > >>> > >> > https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=be1ab8c6c5&attid=0.1&permmsgid=msg-a:r-7374969717110164997&th=1742adb6a4937cb8&view=att&disp=safe&realattid=1742adb12d8c3f23bf81 > >>>>>>>> Once > >>>>>>>> again HELP. Wed. the 25th I was motoring from my slip out on to > the > >>>>> lake > >>>>>>>> and kerplunk. The motor raising part of the boat fell off with the > >>>>> motor > >>>>>>>> attached and still running. I also had it attached with a s/s > >> chain. > >>>>>>> Lucky > >>>>>>>> or not.? ? ? Stan no longer makes the parts for an 86. He said he > >> has > >>>>>>> long > >>>>>>>> moved to newer and hopefully better designs. It seems the > starboard > >>>>>>>> material used to let the motor slide in the rails failed. My > >> question > >>>>> is > >>>>>>>> should I attempt to repair with parts of better materials or buy a > >>>>>>>> gerneric? system for raising and lowering one's motor . Say > >> something > >>>>>>> that > >>>>>>>> would fit a Catalina 22? Looking for advice from the centuries of > >>>>>>>> experience on the list > >>>>>>>> Cary Tolbert S/V Whisper '86 > >>>>>>>> Radford, VA > >>>>>>> > >>>>>>> > >>>>>> > >>>>>> -- > >>>>>> Boston, MA > >>>>>> > >>>>>> 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* > >>>>>> 1986 Nimble 30 *For Sale* > >>>>>> 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* > >>>>> > >>>>> > >>>> -------------- next part -------------- > >>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > >>>> Name: 20200824_165705.jpg > >>>> Type: image/jpeg > >>>> Size: 652767 bytes > >>>> Desc: not available > >>>> URL: < > >>> > >> > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200826/730b3b80/attachment.jpg > >>>> > >>>> -------------- next part -------------- > >>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > >>>> Name: Rhodes 22 MA CL 03.jpg > >>>> Type: image/jpeg > >>>> Size: 61722 bytes > >>>> Desc: not available > >>>> URL: < > >>> > >> > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200826/730b3b80/attachment-0001.jpg > >>>> > >>>> -------------- next part -------------- > >>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > >>>> Name: Rhodes 22 MA CL 04.jpg > >>>> Type: image/jpeg > >>>> Size: 79585 bytes > >>>> Desc: not available > >>>> URL: < > >>> > >> > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200826/730b3b80/attachment-0002.jpg > >>>> > >>>> -------------- next part -------------- > >>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > >>>> Name: Rhodes 22 MA CL 08.jpg > >>>> Type: image/jpeg > >>>> Size: 200670 bytes > >>>> Desc: not available > >>>> URL: < > >>> > >> > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200826/730b3b80/attachment-0003.jpg > >>>> > >>> > >>> > >> > > From rweiss at siu.edu Wed Aug 26 16:59:50 2020 From: rweiss at siu.edu (Weiss, Robert L) Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2020 20:59:50 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Saildrive In-Reply-To: <2132503877.5941900.1598474888368@mail.yahoo.com> References: , <2132503877.5941900.1598474888368@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Three years ago I went out and did some volunteer work for Stan and also helped out at the boat show. I worked on that boat with the electric motor in the lazarette. He built a well in the lazarette and the motor was on a lift system that pulled it up into the well when not used so less drag. It was to be connected wirelessly to a throttle mounted on the gunnel. Bob Robert L Weiss Jr. Director of Music First United Methodist Carbondale, IL Professor Emeritus, SIUC ________________________________ From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of Mark West via Rhodes22-list Sent: Wednesday, August 26, 2020 3:48 PM To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Saildrive [EXTERNAL EMAIL ALERT]: Verify sender before opening links or attachments. Believe that sailboat 2 maby 3 years ago was in the Annapolis boat show . think sold to some one on west cost Seattle? Stan did design and build one with Torpedo's equipment mounted inside lazaret Mark -----Original Message----- From: Tom Van Heule To: Scott Andrews ; The Rhodes 22 Email List Sent: Wed, Aug 26, 2020 4:33 pm Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Saildrive Stan had mentioned to me he had an idea where it would even retract, based on some torqueedo parts. On Wed, Aug 26, 2020, 2:17 PM Scott Andrews via Rhodes22-list < rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote: > Electric sail drive would be the ultimate. > > Sent from my iPhone > > > On Aug 26, 2020, at 12:06 PM, Jesse Shumaker < > jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com> wrote: > > > > ?Mark, it sounds like your R22 has even more bells and whistles than > most! > > I'm curious about your self tending jib. I've only seen that feature on > > larger boats such as Island Packets. Have you found the self tending jib > > to work well? > > > > Jesse Shumaker > > S/V Zephyr > > > >> On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 10:42 AM Mark Whipple > >> wrote: > >> > >> FWIW, I'm pretty sure the drive is at about the same depth as the keel. > >> I'll try to take a picture from the side later today. Also the rudder > >> redirects some of the prop wash since the prop is in front. I haven't > >> had it in the water yet this year (soon!) but I recall the feeling of > the > >> prop wash on the wheel was a little weird. Yes, my boat has a wheel and > a > >> self-tending jib, too. Not sure if it will get up on a plane. We'll see. > >> > >> Mark > >> > >> On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 11:31 AM Ric Stott > >> wrote: > >> > >>> Cory - that?s a really interesting install. > >>> Is 15 HP enough to get on a plane? > >>> It would not work for my needs - it?s too deep. > >>> I would need the prop to be no deeper than the bottom of the keel, and > I > >>> would mount it in the middle of the cockpit floor, about a foot aft of > >> the > >>> end of the keel, understanding that the motor head (probably electric > >> and > >>> smaller than the Yamaha head) would require a low cover above the > cockpit > >>> floor. > >>> I would also like it to be a steerable sail drive with a remote. > >>> Not sure that such a thing is even available. > >>> Thanks > >>> > >>> Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP > >>> https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://www.stottarchitecture.com__;!!DAxFFaumoJbh!PlQA_WtyYkzS4GNoAcAUUzzOP244-mDGavysZjDcyuTVO4TkE54763WQgVV9UQ$ > >>> Office 631-283-1777 > >>> Cell 516-965-3164 > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>>> On Aug 26, 2020, at 11:18 AM, Mark Whipple > >>> wrote: > >>>> > >>>> Ric, > >>>> > >>>> Here's a few pictures I dug up. I'm currently hunting for a source for > >>> the > >>>> zincs. > >>>> > >>>> Mark > >>>> [image: Rhodes 22 MA CL 03.jpg] > >>>> [image: Rhodes 22 MA CL 04.jpg] > >>>> [image: Rhodes 22 MA CL 08.jpg] > >>>> > >>>> > >>>> [image: 20200824_165705.jpg] > >>>> > >>>> On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 10:53 AM Richard Stott < > >>> ric at stottarchitecture.com> > >>>> wrote: > >>>> > >>>>> Mark > >>>>> 15 HP is a lot of motor. > >>>>> Can you show us a pic of where its mounted? > >>>>> Any pics of it under the boat? > >>>>> Can you share performance and maneuverability with us? > >>>>> I?m dying to know more about this. > >>>>> A steerable unit is my fantasy but a fixed one might work. > >>>>> Ric > >>>>> sv Dadventure > >>>>> HBNY > >>>>> > >>>>> Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP > >>>>> https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://www.stottarchitecture.com__;!!DAxFFaumoJbh!PlQA_WtyYkzS4GNoAcAUUzzOP244-mDGavysZjDcyuTVO4TkE54763WQgVV9UQ$ > >>>>> Office 631-283-1777 > >>>>> Cell 516-965-3164 > >>>>> > >>>>> > >>>>> > >>>>> > >>>>> > >>>>>> On Aug 26, 2020, at 10:43 AM, Mark Whipple > >>>>> wrote: > >>>>>> > >>>>>> Hi Richard, > >>>>>> > >>>>>> I purchased my 2000 R22 last year and it came with a 15hp Yamaha > >>>>> saildrive. > >>>>>> I haven't had a chance to use the boat much yet, but it seems like > it > >>>>> will > >>>>>> address many of the issues with an outboard on the transom > >>>>>> (raising/lowering, keeping the drive underwater). > >>>>>> > >>>>>> Unfortunately the company that made this saildrive is essentially > out > >>> of > >>>>>> business. I am concerned about what I'll have to do once this > >> saildrive > >>>>>> needs a part I can't get or needs a costly repair. I'm not sure I > >> like > >>>>> the > >>>>>> alternative solutions that involve a motor on the transom. Maybe I > >> need > >>>>> to > >>>>>> start saving my pennies toward a replacement. Regarding that option, > >>> the > >>>>>> saildrives I've seen tend to have larger engine than mine - often a > >>>>> diesel. > >>>>>> Mine is essentially a Yamaha (made by Parsun) outboard head so it's > >> not > >>>>>> very tall. Maybe I'll be lucky and not have to solve the replacement > >>>>>> problem. > >>>>>> > >>>>>> Mark > >>>>>> > >>>>>> -- > >>>>>> Boston, MA > >>>>>> > >>>>>> 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* > >>>>>> 1987 Nimble 30 *For Sale* > >>>>>> 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* > >>>>>> > >>>>>> On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 10:14 AM Richard Stott < > >>>>> ric at stottarchitecture.com> > >>>>>> wrote: > >>>>>> > >>>>>>> Cary > >>>>>>> My ?84 GB mount broke on spring launch the year and my Yamaha 8 > went > >>> in > >>>>>>> the drink. > >>>>>>> I purchased a motor mount from West marine immediately so I could > >>>>> continue > >>>>>>> to use the boat with a spare motor I happened to have on hand. > >>>>>>> Its a stinky smoky ?99 Merc 2 stroke, but it always starts and runs > >>> when > >>>>>>> it need it - well almost always. > >>>>>>> I talked it over on the list and discussed with Mike Riter a plan > to > >>>>>>> convert the GB mount to be equipped with a threaded gear (his > >> sketch) > >>> so > >>>>>>> that the mont can be moved with a manual crank or an electric > motor. > >>>>>>> This would be huge advantage over the 6/1 tackle it came equipped > >>> with. > >>>>>>> I?ve been enjoying the boat too much to stop and refine that design > >> of > >>>>>>> Mikes - that?s a winter project. > >>>>>>> > >>>>>>> In any case the parallelogram type mount works fairly well, it has > >>> pros > >>>>>>> and cons. > >>>>>>> One of the biggest cons is that the moro in the down position is > >>> father > >>>>>>> aft of the transom and will cavitate and lose thrust in larger > >> waves, > >>>>>>> especially with weight on the bow. > >>>>>>> I will like the GB system (modified) over the alternative, but the > >>> West > >>>>>>> marine mount was easy to install and serves the immediate need. > >>>>>>> (What I really want is an electric, steerable, remote controlled, > >> 20 > >>> hp > >>>>>>> sail drive mounted right behind the keel trunk.) > >>>>>>> It?s doable for approximately one tone of money. > >>>>>>> > >>>>>>> One way I use the boat is unusual. > >>>>>>> I moore my boat 50 yards off shore. > >>>>>>> I use a stand-up paddle board for a tender because it's light and > >> easy > >>>>> to > >>>>>>> cary to the shore. > >>>>>>> I then use the motor only, with the rudder up, to back the boat on > >> to > >>>>> the > >>>>>>> beach to pick up provisions and of course my wife, who is not one > >> to > >>>>>>> paddle out to the boat. > >>>>>>> Depending on the tide and the slope of the beach, I can sometimes > >> put > >>>>> the > >>>>>>> stern right on the beach. > >>>>>>> An opening in the stern rail, like the more modern R22s would be a > >>> huge > >>>>>>> asset for picking up passengers from the beach. (next year) > >>>>>>> Ric > >>>>>>> sv Dadventure > >>>>>>> stay tuned for ?motor mount mod? updates > >>>>>>> > >>>>>>> > >>>>>>> > >>>>>>> Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP > >>>>>>> https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://www.stottarchitecture.com__;!!DAxFFaumoJbh!PlQA_WtyYkzS4GNoAcAUUzzOP244-mDGavysZjDcyuTVO4TkE54763WQgVV9UQ$ > >>>>>>> Office 631-283-1777 > >>>>>>> Cell 516-965-3164 > >>>>>>> > >>>>>>> > >>>>>>> > >>>>>>> > >>>>>>> > >>>>>>>> On Aug 26, 2020, at 9:19 AM, Cary Tolbert > >>>>> wrote: > >>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>> Preview attachment 20200825_174517.jpg > >>>>>>>> 20200825_174517.jpg > >>>>>>>> 4 MB > >>>>>>>> < > >>>>>>> > >>>>> > >>> > >> > https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=be1ab8c6c5&attid=0.1&permmsgid=msg-a:r-7374969717110164997&th=1742adb6a4937cb8&view=att&disp=safe&realattid=1742adb12d8c3f23bf81__;!!DAxFFaumoJbh!PlQA_WtyYkzS4GNoAcAUUzzOP244-mDGavysZjDcyuTVO4TkE54763UrqbKnIw$ > >>>>>>>> Once > >>>>>>>> again HELP. Wed. the 25th I was motoring from my slip out on to > the > >>>>> lake > >>>>>>>> and kerplunk. The motor raising part of the boat fell off with the > >>>>> motor > >>>>>>>> attached and still running. I also had it attached with a s/s > >> chain. > >>>>>>> Lucky > >>>>>>>> or not.? ? ? Stan no longer makes the parts for an 86. He said he > >> has > >>>>>>> long > >>>>>>>> moved to newer and hopefully better designs. It seems the > starboard > >>>>>>>> material used to let the motor slide in the rails failed. My > >> question > >>>>> is > >>>>>>>> should I attempt to repair with parts of better materials or buy a > >>>>>>>> gerneric system for raising and lowering one's motor . Say > >> something > >>>>>>> that > >>>>>>>> would fit a Catalina 22? Looking for advice from the centuries of > >>>>>>>> experience on the list > >>>>>>>> Cary Tolbert S/V Whisper '86 > >>>>>>>> Radford, VA > >>>>>>> > >>>>>>> > >>>>>> > >>>>>> -- > >>>>>> Boston, MA > >>>>>> > >>>>>> 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* > >>>>>> 1986 Nimble 30 *For Sale* > >>>>>> 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* > >>>>> > >>>>> > >>>> -------------- next part -------------- > >>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > >>>> Name: 20200824_165705.jpg > >>>> Type: image/jpeg > >>>> Size: 652767 bytes > >>>> Desc: not available > >>>> URL: < > >>> > >> > https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200826/730b3b80/attachment.jpg__;!!DAxFFaumoJbh!PlQA_WtyYkzS4GNoAcAUUzzOP244-mDGavysZjDcyuTVO4TkE54763XjNYun2Q$ > >>>> > >>>> -------------- next part -------------- > >>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > >>>> Name: Rhodes 22 MA CL 03.jpg > >>>> Type: image/jpeg > >>>> Size: 61722 bytes > >>>> Desc: not available > >>>> URL: < > >>> > >> > https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200826/730b3b80/attachment-0001.jpg__;!!DAxFFaumoJbh!PlQA_WtyYkzS4GNoAcAUUzzOP244-mDGavysZjDcyuTVO4TkE54763XDKlETPg$ > >>>> > >>>> -------------- next part -------------- > >>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > >>>> Name: Rhodes 22 MA CL 04.jpg > >>>> Type: image/jpeg > >>>> Size: 79585 bytes > >>>> Desc: not available > >>>> URL: < > >>> > >> > https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200826/730b3b80/attachment-0002.jpg__;!!DAxFFaumoJbh!PlQA_WtyYkzS4GNoAcAUUzzOP244-mDGavysZjDcyuTVO4TkE54763XB6rYtFw$ > >>>> > >>>> -------------- next part -------------- > >>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > >>>> Name: Rhodes 22 MA CL 08.jpg > >>>> Type: image/jpeg > >>>> Size: 200670 bytes > >>>> Desc: not available > >>>> URL: < > >>> > >> > https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200826/730b3b80/attachment-0003.jpg__;!!DAxFFaumoJbh!PlQA_WtyYkzS4GNoAcAUUzzOP244-mDGavysZjDcyuTVO4TkE54763UQRjoChQ$ > >>>> > >>> > >>> > >> > > From ccowie at cowieassociates.com Wed Aug 26 17:05:47 2020 From: ccowie at cowieassociates.com (Chris Cowie) Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2020 21:05:47 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] motor broke away In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Richard: We installed electric actuators on the westmarine motor lift for a clean off the shelf type of solution. Works pretty well and avoids a lot of fussy custom hardware. Christopher P. Cowie? ?? 4200 Massachusetts Ave NW 119 Washington DC, 20016 202.270.1470 mobile [ccowie at cowieassociates.com] Please consider the environment before printing this email. -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of Richard Stott Sent: Wednesday, August 26, 2020 10:14 AM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] motor broke away Cary My ?84 GB mount broke on spring launch the year and my Yamaha 8 went in the drink. I purchased a motor mount from West marine immediately so I could continue to use the boat with a spare motor I happened to have on hand. Its a stinky smoky ?99 Merc 2 stroke, but it always starts and runs when it need it - well almost always. I talked it over on the list and discussed with Mike Riter a plan to convert the GB mount to be equipped with a threaded gear (his sketch) so that the mont can be moved with a manual crank or an electric motor. This would be huge advantage over the 6/1 tackle it came equipped with. I?ve been enjoying the boat too much to stop and refine that design of Mikes - that?s a winter project. In any case the parallelogram type mount works fairly well, it has pros and cons. One of the biggest cons is that the moro in the down position is father aft of the transom and will cavitate and lose thrust in larger waves, especially with weight on the bow. I will like the GB system (modified) over the alternative, but the West marine mount was easy to install and serves the immediate need. (What I really want is an electric, steerable, remote controlled, 20 hp sail drive mounted right behind the keel trunk.) It?s doable for approximately one tone of money. One way I use the boat is unusual. I moore my boat 50 yards off shore. I use a stand-up paddle board for a tender because it's light and easy to cary to the shore. I then use the motor only, with the rudder up, to back the boat on to the beach to pick up provisions and of course my wife, who is not one to paddle out to the boat. Depending on the tide and the slope of the beach, I can sometimes put the stern right on the beach. An opening in the stern rail, like the more modern R22s would be a huge asset for picking up passengers from the beach. (next year) Ric sv Dadventure stay tuned for ?motor mount mod? updates Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP www.stottarchitecture.com Office 631-283-1777 Cell 516-965-3164 > On Aug 26, 2020, at 9:19 AM, Cary Tolbert wrote: > > Preview attachment 20200825_174517.jpg > 20200825_174517.jpg > 4 MB > Once > again HELP. Wed. the 25th I was motoring from my slip out on to the lake > and kerplunk. The motor raising part of the boat fell off with the motor > attached and still running. I also had it attached with a s/s chain. Lucky > or not.? ? ? Stan no longer makes the parts for an 86. He said he has long > moved to newer and hopefully better designs. It seems the starboard > material used to let the motor slide in the rails failed. My question is > should I attempt to repair with parts of better materials or buy a > gerneric system for raising and lowering one's motor . Say something that > would fit a Catalina 22? Looking for advice from the centuries of > experience on the list > Cary Tolbert S/V Whisper '86 > Radford, VA From ccowie at cowieassociates.com Wed Aug 26 17:07:40 2020 From: ccowie at cowieassociates.com (Chris Cowie) Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2020 21:07:40 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Saildrive In-Reply-To: References: , <2132503877.5941900.1598474888368@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I did a lot of research with sail drives and with torqeedo on various options including the one Stan installed on one of the test boats. The sail drive seemed the most interesting idea however it is bulky and expensive. Christopher P. Cowie? ?? 4200 Massachusetts Ave NW 119 Washington DC, 20016 202.270.1470 mobile [ccowie at cowieassociates.com] Please consider the environment before printing this email. -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of Weiss, Robert L Sent: Wednesday, August 26, 2020 5:00 PM To: Mark West ; The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Saildrive Three years ago I went out and did some volunteer work for Stan and also helped out at the boat show. I worked on that boat with the electric motor in the lazarette. He built a well in the lazarette and the motor was on a lift system that pulled it up into the well when not used so less drag. It was to be connected wirelessly to a throttle mounted on the gunnel. Bob Robert L Weiss Jr. Director of Music First United Methodist Carbondale, IL Professor Emeritus, SIUC ________________________________ From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of Mark West via Rhodes22-list Sent: Wednesday, August 26, 2020 3:48 PM To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Saildrive [EXTERNAL EMAIL ALERT]: Verify sender before opening links or attachments. Believe that sailboat 2 maby 3 years ago was in the Annapolis boat show . think sold to some one on west cost Seattle? Stan did design and build one with Torpedo's equipment mounted inside lazaret Mark -----Original Message----- From: Tom Van Heule To: Scott Andrews ; The Rhodes 22 Email List Sent: Wed, Aug 26, 2020 4:33 pm Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Saildrive Stan had mentioned to me he had an idea where it would even retract, based on some torqueedo parts. On Wed, Aug 26, 2020, 2:17 PM Scott Andrews via Rhodes22-list < rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote: > Electric sail drive would be the ultimate. > > Sent from my iPhone > > > On Aug 26, 2020, at 12:06 PM, Jesse Shumaker < > jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com> wrote: > > > > ?Mark, it sounds like your R22 has even more bells and whistles than > most! > > I'm curious about your self tending jib. I've only seen that > > feature on larger boats such as Island Packets. Have you found the > > self tending jib to work well? > > > > Jesse Shumaker > > S/V Zephyr > > > >> On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 10:42 AM Mark Whipple > >> > >> wrote: > >> > >> FWIW, I'm pretty sure the drive is at about the same depth as the keel. > >> I'll try to take a picture from the side later today. Also the > >> rudder redirects some of the prop wash since the prop is in front. > >> I haven't had it in the water yet this year (soon!) but I recall > >> the feeling of > the > >> prop wash on the wheel was a little weird. Yes, my boat has a wheel > >> and > a > >> self-tending jib, too. Not sure if it will get up on a plane. We'll see. > >> > >> Mark > >> > >> On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 11:31 AM Ric Stott > >> > >> wrote: > >> > >>> Cory - that?s a really interesting install. > >>> Is 15 HP enough to get on a plane? > >>> It would not work for my needs - it?s too deep. > >>> I would need the prop to be no deeper than the bottom of the keel, > >>> and > I > >>> would mount it in the middle of the cockpit floor, about a foot > >>> aft of > >> the > >>> end of the keel, understanding that the motor head (probably > >>> electric > >> and > >>> smaller than the Yamaha head) would require a low cover above the > cockpit > >>> floor. > >>> I would also like it to be a steerable sail drive with a remote. > >>> Not sure that such a thing is even available. > >>> Thanks > >>> > >>> Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP > >>> https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://www.stottarchitecture.com__;!!D > >>> AxFFaumoJbh!PlQA_WtyYkzS4GNoAcAUUzzOP244-mDGavysZjDcyuTVO4TkE54763 > >>> WQgVV9UQ$ > >>> Office 631-283-1777 > >>> Cell 516-965-3164 > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>>> On Aug 26, 2020, at 11:18 AM, Mark Whipple > >>>> > >>> wrote: > >>>> > >>>> Ric, > >>>> > >>>> Here's a few pictures I dug up. I'm currently hunting for a > >>>> source for > >>> the > >>>> zincs. > >>>> > >>>> Mark > >>>> [image: Rhodes 22 MA CL 03.jpg] > >>>> [image: Rhodes 22 MA CL 04.jpg] > >>>> [image: Rhodes 22 MA CL 08.jpg] > >>>> > >>>> > >>>> [image: 20200824_165705.jpg] > >>>> > >>>> On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 10:53 AM Richard Stott < > >>> ric at stottarchitecture.com> > >>>> wrote: > >>>> > >>>>> Mark > >>>>> 15 HP is a lot of motor. > >>>>> Can you show us a pic of where its mounted? > >>>>> Any pics of it under the boat? > >>>>> Can you share performance and maneuverability with us? > >>>>> I?m dying to know more about this. > >>>>> A steerable unit is my fantasy but a fixed one might work. > >>>>> Ric > >>>>> sv Dadventure > >>>>> HBNY > >>>>> > >>>>> Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP > >>>>> https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://www.stottarchitecture.com__;! > >>>>> !DAxFFaumoJbh!PlQA_WtyYkzS4GNoAcAUUzzOP244-mDGavysZjDcyuTVO4TkE5 > >>>>> 4763WQgVV9UQ$ > >>>>> Office 631-283-1777 > >>>>> Cell 516-965-3164 > >>>>> > >>>>> > >>>>> > >>>>> > >>>>> > >>>>>> On Aug 26, 2020, at 10:43 AM, Mark Whipple > >>>>>> > >>>>> wrote: > >>>>>> > >>>>>> Hi Richard, > >>>>>> > >>>>>> I purchased my 2000 R22 last year and it came with a 15hp > >>>>>> Yamaha > >>>>> saildrive. > >>>>>> I haven't had a chance to use the boat much yet, but it seems > >>>>>> like > it > >>>>> will > >>>>>> address many of the issues with an outboard on the transom > >>>>>> (raising/lowering, keeping the drive underwater). > >>>>>> > >>>>>> Unfortunately the company that made this saildrive is > >>>>>> essentially > out > >>> of > >>>>>> business. I am concerned about what I'll have to do once this > >> saildrive > >>>>>> needs a part I can't get or needs a costly repair. I'm not sure > >>>>>> I > >> like > >>>>> the > >>>>>> alternative solutions that involve a motor on the transom. > >>>>>> Maybe I > >> need > >>>>> to > >>>>>> start saving my pennies toward a replacement. Regarding that > >>>>>> option, > >>> the > >>>>>> saildrives I've seen tend to have larger engine than mine - > >>>>>> often a > >>>>> diesel. > >>>>>> Mine is essentially a Yamaha (made by Parsun) outboard head so > >>>>>> it's > >> not > >>>>>> very tall. Maybe I'll be lucky and not have to solve the > >>>>>> replacement problem. > >>>>>> > >>>>>> Mark > >>>>>> > >>>>>> -- > >>>>>> Boston, MA > >>>>>> > >>>>>> 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* > >>>>>> 1987 Nimble 30 *For Sale* > >>>>>> 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* > >>>>>> > >>>>>> On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 10:14 AM Richard Stott < > >>>>> ric at stottarchitecture.com> > >>>>>> wrote: > >>>>>> > >>>>>>> Cary > >>>>>>> My ?84 GB mount broke on spring launch the year and my Yamaha > >>>>>>> 8 > went > >>> in > >>>>>>> the drink. > >>>>>>> I purchased a motor mount from West marine immediately so I > >>>>>>> could > >>>>> continue > >>>>>>> to use the boat with a spare motor I happened to have on hand. > >>>>>>> Its a stinky smoky ?99 Merc 2 stroke, but it always starts and > >>>>>>> runs > >>> when > >>>>>>> it need it - well almost always. > >>>>>>> I talked it over on the list and discussed with Mike Riter a > >>>>>>> plan > to > >>>>>>> convert the GB mount to be equipped with a threaded gear (his > >> sketch) > >>> so > >>>>>>> that the mont can be moved with a manual crank or an electric > motor. > >>>>>>> This would be huge advantage over the 6/1 tackle it came > >>>>>>> equipped > >>> with. > >>>>>>> I?ve been enjoying the boat too much to stop and refine that > >>>>>>> design > >> of > >>>>>>> Mikes - that?s a winter project. > >>>>>>> > >>>>>>> In any case the parallelogram type mount works fairly well, it > >>>>>>> has > >>> pros > >>>>>>> and cons. > >>>>>>> One of the biggest cons is that the moro in the down position > >>>>>>> is > >>> father > >>>>>>> aft of the transom and will cavitate and lose thrust in larger > >> waves, > >>>>>>> especially with weight on the bow. > >>>>>>> I will like the GB system (modified) over the alternative, but > >>>>>>> the > >>> West > >>>>>>> marine mount was easy to install and serves the immediate need. > >>>>>>> (What I really want is an electric, steerable, remote > >>>>>>> controlled, > >> 20 > >>> hp > >>>>>>> sail drive mounted right behind the keel trunk.) It?s doable > >>>>>>> for approximately one tone of money. > >>>>>>> > >>>>>>> One way I use the boat is unusual. > >>>>>>> I moore my boat 50 yards off shore. > >>>>>>> I use a stand-up paddle board for a tender because it's light > >>>>>>> and > >> easy > >>>>> to > >>>>>>> cary to the shore. > >>>>>>> I then use the motor only, with the rudder up, to back the > >>>>>>> boat on > >> to > >>>>> the > >>>>>>> beach to pick up provisions and of course my wife, who is not > >>>>>>> one > >> to > >>>>>>> paddle out to the boat. > >>>>>>> Depending on the tide and the slope of the beach, I can > >>>>>>> sometimes > >> put > >>>>> the > >>>>>>> stern right on the beach. > >>>>>>> An opening in the stern rail, like the more modern R22s would > >>>>>>> be a > >>> huge > >>>>>>> asset for picking up passengers from the beach. (next year) > >>>>>>> Ric sv Dadventure stay tuned for ?motor mount mod? updates > >>>>>>> > >>>>>>> > >>>>>>> > >>>>>>> Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP > >>>>>>> https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://www.stottarchitecture.com__ > >>>>>>> ;!!DAxFFaumoJbh!PlQA_WtyYkzS4GNoAcAUUzzOP244-mDGavysZjDcyuTVO4TkE54763WQgVV9UQ$ Office 631-283-1777 > >>>>>>> Cell 516-965-3164 > >>>>>>> > >>>>>>> > >>>>>>> > >>>>>>> > >>>>>>> > >>>>>>>> On Aug 26, 2020, at 9:19 AM, Cary Tolbert > >>>>>>>> > >>>>> wrote: > >>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>> Preview attachment 20200825_174517.jpg 20200825_174517.jpg > >>>>>>>> 4 MB > >>>>>>>> < > >>>>>>> > >>>>> > >>> > >> > https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=b > e1ab8c6c5&attid=0.1&permmsgid=msg-a:r-7374969717110164997&th=1742adb6a > 4937cb8&view=att&disp=safe&realattid=1742adb12d8c3f23bf81__;!!DAxFFaum > oJbh!PlQA_WtyYkzS4GNoAcAUUzzOP244-mDGavysZjDcyuTVO4TkE54763UrqbKnIw$ > >>>>>>>> Once > >>>>>>>> again HELP. Wed. the 25th I was motoring from my slip out on > >>>>>>>> to > the > >>>>> lake > >>>>>>>> and kerplunk. The motor raising part of the boat fell off > >>>>>>>> with the > >>>>> motor > >>>>>>>> attached and still running. I also had it attached with a s/s > >> chain. > >>>>>>> Lucky > >>>>>>>> or not.? ? ? Stan no longer makes the parts for an 86. He > >>>>>>>> said he > >> has > >>>>>>> long > >>>>>>>> moved to newer and hopefully better designs. It seems the > starboard > >>>>>>>> material used to let the motor slide in the rails failed. My > >> question > >>>>> is > >>>>>>>> should I attempt to repair with parts of better materials or > >>>>>>>> buy a gerneric system for raising and lowering one's motor . > >>>>>>>> Say > >> something > >>>>>>> that > >>>>>>>> would fit a Catalina 22? Looking for advice from the > >>>>>>>> centuries of experience on the list Cary Tolbert S/V Whisper > >>>>>>>> '86 Radford, VA > >>>>>>> > >>>>>>> > >>>>>> > >>>>>> -- > >>>>>> Boston, MA > >>>>>> > >>>>>> 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* > >>>>>> 1986 Nimble 30 *For Sale* > >>>>>> 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* > >>>>> > >>>>> > >>>> -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was > >>>> scrubbed... > >>>> Name: 20200824_165705.jpg > >>>> Type: image/jpeg > >>>> Size: 652767 bytes > >>>> Desc: not available > >>>> URL: < > >>> > >> > https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-lis > t/attachments/20200826/730b3b80/attachment.jpg__;!!DAxFFaumoJbh!PlQA_W > tyYkzS4GNoAcAUUzzOP244-mDGavysZjDcyuTVO4TkE54763XjNYun2Q$ > >>>> > >>>> -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was > >>>> scrubbed... > >>>> Name: Rhodes 22 MA CL 03.jpg > >>>> Type: image/jpeg > >>>> Size: 61722 bytes > >>>> Desc: not available > >>>> URL: < > >>> > >> > https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-lis > t/attachments/20200826/730b3b80/attachment-0001.jpg__;!!DAxFFaumoJbh!P > lQA_WtyYkzS4GNoAcAUUzzOP244-mDGavysZjDcyuTVO4TkE54763XDKlETPg$ > >>>> > >>>> -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was > >>>> scrubbed... > >>>> Name: Rhodes 22 MA CL 04.jpg > >>>> Type: image/jpeg > >>>> Size: 79585 bytes > >>>> Desc: not available > >>>> URL: < > >>> > >> > https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-lis > t/attachments/20200826/730b3b80/attachment-0002.jpg__;!!DAxFFaumoJbh!P > lQA_WtyYkzS4GNoAcAUUzzOP244-mDGavysZjDcyuTVO4TkE54763XB6rYtFw$ > >>>> > >>>> -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was > >>>> scrubbed... > >>>> Name: Rhodes 22 MA CL 08.jpg > >>>> Type: image/jpeg > >>>> Size: 200670 bytes > >>>> Desc: not available > >>>> URL: < > >>> > >> > https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-lis > t/attachments/20200826/730b3b80/attachment-0003.jpg__;!!DAxFFaumoJbh!P > lQA_WtyYkzS4GNoAcAUUzzOP244-mDGavysZjDcyuTVO4TkE54763UQRjoChQ$ > >>>> > >>> > >>> > >> > > From tom.vanheule at intrinsicprograms.com Wed Aug 26 17:08:44 2020 From: tom.vanheule at intrinsicprograms.com (Tom Van Heule) Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2020 16:08:44 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Saildrive In-Reply-To: References: <2132503877.5941900.1598474888368@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: That's it! Anyone know how it's working over the years, as few they have been so far? I dearly want to get the 8hp merc4 stroke off the transom. On Wed, Aug 26, 2020, 3:59 PM Weiss, Robert L wrote: > Three years ago I went out and did some volunteer work for Stan and also > helped out at the boat show. I worked on that boat with the electric motor > in the lazarette. He built a well in the lazarette and the motor was on a > lift system that pulled it up into the well when not used so less drag. It > was to be connected wirelessly to a throttle mounted on the gunnel. > > Bob > > Robert L Weiss Jr. > Director of Music > First United Methodist Carbondale, IL > Professor Emeritus, SIUC > ________________________________ > From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of > Mark West via Rhodes22-list > Sent: Wednesday, August 26, 2020 3:48 PM > To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Saildrive > > [EXTERNAL EMAIL ALERT]: Verify sender before opening links or attachments. > > Believe that sailboat 2 maby 3 years ago was in the Annapolis boat show . > think sold to some one on west cost Seattle? Stan did design and build one > with Torpedo's equipment mounted inside lazaret Mark > > -----Original Message----- > From: Tom Van Heule > To: Scott Andrews ; The Rhodes 22 Email List < > rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> > Sent: Wed, Aug 26, 2020 4:33 pm > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Saildrive > > Stan had mentioned to me he had an idea where it would even retract, based > on some torqueedo parts. > > On Wed, Aug 26, 2020, 2:17 PM Scott Andrews via Rhodes22-list < > rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote: > > > Electric sail drive would be the ultimate. > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > > On Aug 26, 2020, at 12:06 PM, Jesse Shumaker < > > jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com> wrote: > > > > > > ?Mark, it sounds like your R22 has even more bells and whistles than > > most! > > > I'm curious about your self tending jib. I've only seen that feature > on > > > larger boats such as Island Packets. Have you found the self tending > jib > > > to work well? > > > > > > Jesse Shumaker > > > S/V Zephyr > > > > > >> On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 10:42 AM Mark Whipple > > > >> wrote: > > >> > > >> FWIW, I'm pretty sure the drive is at about the same depth as the > keel. > > >> I'll try to take a picture from the side later today. Also the rudder > > >> redirects some of the prop wash since the prop is in front. I haven't > > >> had it in the water yet this year (soon!) but I recall the feeling of > > the > > >> prop wash on the wheel was a little weird. Yes, my boat has a wheel > and > > a > > >> self-tending jib, too. Not sure if it will get up on a plane. We'll > see. > > >> > > >> Mark > > >> > > >> On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 11:31 AM Ric Stott > > > >> wrote: > > >> > > >>> Cory - that?s a really interesting install. > > >>> Is 15 HP enough to get on a plane? > > >>> It would not work for my needs - it?s too deep. > > >>> I would need the prop to be no deeper than the bottom of the keel, > and > > I > > >>> would mount it in the middle of the cockpit floor, about a foot aft > of > > >> the > > >>> end of the keel, understanding that the motor head (probably > electric > > >> and > > >>> smaller than the Yamaha head) would require a low cover above the > > cockpit > > >>> floor. > > >>> I would also like it to be a steerable sail drive with a remote. > > >>> Not sure that such a thing is even available. > > >>> Thanks > > >>> > > >>> Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP > > >>> > https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://www.stottarchitecture.com__;!!DAxFFaumoJbh!PlQA_WtyYkzS4GNoAcAUUzzOP244-mDGavysZjDcyuTVO4TkE54763WQgVV9UQ$ > > >>> Office 631-283-1777 > > >>> Cell 516-965-3164 > > >>> > > >>> > > >>> > > >>> > > >>> > > >>>> On Aug 26, 2020, at 11:18 AM, Mark Whipple > > >>> wrote: > > >>>> > > >>>> Ric, > > >>>> > > >>>> Here's a few pictures I dug up. I'm currently hunting for a source > for > > >>> the > > >>>> zincs. > > >>>> > > >>>> Mark > > >>>> [image: Rhodes 22 MA CL 03.jpg] > > >>>> [image: Rhodes 22 MA CL 04.jpg] > > >>>> [image: Rhodes 22 MA CL 08.jpg] > > >>>> > > >>>> > > >>>> [image: 20200824_165705.jpg] > > >>>> > > >>>> On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 10:53 AM Richard Stott < > > >>> ric at stottarchitecture.com> > > >>>> wrote: > > >>>> > > >>>>> Mark > > >>>>> 15 HP is a lot of motor. > > >>>>> Can you show us a pic of where its mounted? > > >>>>> Any pics of it under the boat? > > >>>>> Can you share performance and maneuverability with us? > > >>>>> I?m dying to know more about this. > > >>>>> A steerable unit is my fantasy but a fixed one might work. > > >>>>> Ric > > >>>>> sv Dadventure > > >>>>> HBNY > > >>>>> > > >>>>> Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP > > >>>>> > https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://www.stottarchitecture.com__;!!DAxFFaumoJbh!PlQA_WtyYkzS4GNoAcAUUzzOP244-mDGavysZjDcyuTVO4TkE54763WQgVV9UQ$ > > >>>>> Office 631-283-1777 > > >>>>> Cell 516-965-3164 > > >>>>> > > >>>>> > > >>>>> > > >>>>> > > >>>>> > > >>>>>> On Aug 26, 2020, at 10:43 AM, Mark Whipple < > mark at whipplefamily.com> > > >>>>> wrote: > > >>>>>> > > >>>>>> Hi Richard, > > >>>>>> > > >>>>>> I purchased my 2000 R22 last year and it came with a 15hp Yamaha > > >>>>> saildrive. > > >>>>>> I haven't had a chance to use the boat much yet, but it seems like > > it > > >>>>> will > > >>>>>> address many of the issues with an outboard on the transom > > >>>>>> (raising/lowering, keeping the drive underwater). > > >>>>>> > > >>>>>> Unfortunately the company that made this saildrive is essentially > > out > > >>> of > > >>>>>> business. I am concerned about what I'll have to do once this > > >> saildrive > > >>>>>> needs a part I can't get or needs a costly repair. I'm not sure I > > >> like > > >>>>> the > > >>>>>> alternative solutions that involve a motor on the transom. Maybe I > > >> need > > >>>>> to > > >>>>>> start saving my pennies toward a replacement. Regarding that > option, > > >>> the > > >>>>>> saildrives I've seen tend to have larger engine than mine - often > a > > >>>>> diesel. > > >>>>>> Mine is essentially a Yamaha (made by Parsun) outboard head so > it's > > >> not > > >>>>>> very tall. Maybe I'll be lucky and not have to solve the > replacement > > >>>>>> problem. > > >>>>>> > > >>>>>> Mark > > >>>>>> > > >>>>>> -- > > >>>>>> Boston, MA > > >>>>>> > > >>>>>> 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* > > >>>>>> 1987 Nimble 30 *For Sale* > > >>>>>> 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* > > >>>>>> > > >>>>>> On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 10:14 AM Richard Stott < > > >>>>> ric at stottarchitecture.com> > > >>>>>> wrote: > > >>>>>> > > >>>>>>> Cary > > >>>>>>> My ?84 GB mount broke on spring launch the year and my Yamaha 8 > > went > > >>> in > > >>>>>>> the drink. > > >>>>>>> I purchased a motor mount from West marine immediately so I could > > >>>>> continue > > >>>>>>> to use the boat with a spare motor I happened to have on hand. > > >>>>>>> Its a stinky smoky ?99 Merc 2 stroke, but it always starts and > runs > > >>> when > > >>>>>>> it need it - well almost always. > > >>>>>>> I talked it over on the list and discussed with Mike Riter a plan > > to > > >>>>>>> convert the GB mount to be equipped with a threaded gear (his > > >> sketch) > > >>> so > > >>>>>>> that the mont can be moved with a manual crank or an electric > > motor. > > >>>>>>> This would be huge advantage over the 6/1 tackle it came equipped > > >>> with. > > >>>>>>> I?ve been enjoying the boat too much to stop and refine that > design > > >> of > > >>>>>>> Mikes - that?s a winter project. > > >>>>>>> > > >>>>>>> In any case the parallelogram type mount works fairly well, it > has > > >>> pros > > >>>>>>> and cons. > > >>>>>>> One of the biggest cons is that the moro in the down position is > > >>> father > > >>>>>>> aft of the transom and will cavitate and lose thrust in larger > > >> waves, > > >>>>>>> especially with weight on the bow. > > >>>>>>> I will like the GB system (modified) over the alternative, but > the > > >>> West > > >>>>>>> marine mount was easy to install and serves the immediate need. > > >>>>>>> (What I really want is an electric, steerable, remote > controlled, > > >> 20 > > >>> hp > > >>>>>>> sail drive mounted right behind the keel trunk.) > > >>>>>>> It?s doable for approximately one tone of money. > > >>>>>>> > > >>>>>>> One way I use the boat is unusual. > > >>>>>>> I moore my boat 50 yards off shore. > > >>>>>>> I use a stand-up paddle board for a tender because it's light and > > >> easy > > >>>>> to > > >>>>>>> cary to the shore. > > >>>>>>> I then use the motor only, with the rudder up, to back the boat > on > > >> to > > >>>>> the > > >>>>>>> beach to pick up provisions and of course my wife, who is not > one > > >> to > > >>>>>>> paddle out to the boat. > > >>>>>>> Depending on the tide and the slope of the beach, I can sometimes > > >> put > > >>>>> the > > >>>>>>> stern right on the beach. > > >>>>>>> An opening in the stern rail, like the more modern R22s would be > a > > >>> huge > > >>>>>>> asset for picking up passengers from the beach. (next year) > > >>>>>>> Ric > > >>>>>>> sv Dadventure > > >>>>>>> stay tuned for ?motor mount mod? updates > > >>>>>>> > > >>>>>>> > > >>>>>>> > > >>>>>>> Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP > > >>>>>>> > https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://www.stottarchitecture.com__;!!DAxFFaumoJbh!PlQA_WtyYkzS4GNoAcAUUzzOP244-mDGavysZjDcyuTVO4TkE54763WQgVV9UQ$ > < > https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://www.stottarchitecture.com/__;!!DAxFFaumoJbh!PlQA_WtyYkzS4GNoAcAUUzzOP244-mDGavysZjDcyuTVO4TkE54763Wr06h0Cg$ > > > > >>>>>>> Office 631-283-1777 > > >>>>>>> Cell 516-965-3164 > > >>>>>>> > > >>>>>>> > > >>>>>>> > > >>>>>>> > > >>>>>>> > > >>>>>>>> On Aug 26, 2020, at 9:19 AM, Cary Tolbert < > retiredtoby at gmail.com> > > >>>>> wrote: > > >>>>>>>> > > >>>>>>>> Preview attachment 20200825_174517.jpg > > >>>>>>>> 20200825_174517.jpg > > >>>>>>>> 4 MB > > >>>>>>>> < > > >>>>>>> > > >>>>> > > >>> > > >> > > > https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=be1ab8c6c5&attid=0.1&permmsgid=msg-a:r-7374969717110164997&th=1742adb6a4937cb8&view=att&disp=safe&realattid=1742adb12d8c3f23bf81__;!!DAxFFaumoJbh!PlQA_WtyYkzS4GNoAcAUUzzOP244-mDGavysZjDcyuTVO4TkE54763UrqbKnIw$ > > >>>>>>>> Once > > >>>>>>>> again HELP. Wed. the 25th I was motoring from my slip out on to > > the > > >>>>> lake > > >>>>>>>> and kerplunk. The motor raising part of the boat fell off with > the > > >>>>> motor > > >>>>>>>> attached and still running. I also had it attached with a s/s > > >> chain. > > >>>>>>> Lucky > > >>>>>>>> or not.? ? ? Stan no longer makes the parts for an 86. He said > he > > >> has > > >>>>>>> long > > >>>>>>>> moved to newer and hopefully better designs. It seems the > > starboard > > >>>>>>>> material used to let the motor slide in the rails failed. My > > >> question > > >>>>> is > > >>>>>>>> should I attempt to repair with parts of better materials or > buy a > > >>>>>>>> gerneric system for raising and lowering one's motor . Say > > >> something > > >>>>>>> that > > >>>>>>>> would fit a Catalina 22? Looking for advice from the centuries > of > > >>>>>>>> experience on the list > > >>>>>>>> Cary Tolbert S/V Whisper '86 > > >>>>>>>> Radford, VA > > >>>>>>> > > >>>>>>> > > >>>>>> > > >>>>>> -- > > >>>>>> Boston, MA > > >>>>>> > > >>>>>> 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* > > >>>>>> 1986 Nimble 30 *For Sale* > > >>>>>> 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* > > >>>>> > > >>>>> > > >>>> -------------- next part -------------- > > >>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > >>>> Name: 20200824_165705.jpg > > >>>> Type: image/jpeg > > >>>> Size: 652767 bytes > > >>>> Desc: not available > > >>>> URL: < > > >>> > > >> > > > https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200826/730b3b80/attachment.jpg__;!!DAxFFaumoJbh!PlQA_WtyYkzS4GNoAcAUUzzOP244-mDGavysZjDcyuTVO4TkE54763XjNYun2Q$ > > >>>> > > >>>> -------------- next part -------------- > > >>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > >>>> Name: Rhodes 22 MA CL 03.jpg > > >>>> Type: image/jpeg > > >>>> Size: 61722 bytes > > >>>> Desc: not available > > >>>> URL: < > > >>> > > >> > > > https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200826/730b3b80/attachment-0001.jpg__;!!DAxFFaumoJbh!PlQA_WtyYkzS4GNoAcAUUzzOP244-mDGavysZjDcyuTVO4TkE54763XDKlETPg$ > > >>>> > > >>>> -------------- next part -------------- > > >>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > >>>> Name: Rhodes 22 MA CL 04.jpg > > >>>> Type: image/jpeg > > >>>> Size: 79585 bytes > > >>>> Desc: not available > > >>>> URL: < > > >>> > > >> > > > https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200826/730b3b80/attachment-0002.jpg__;!!DAxFFaumoJbh!PlQA_WtyYkzS4GNoAcAUUzzOP244-mDGavysZjDcyuTVO4TkE54763XB6rYtFw$ > > >>>> > > >>>> -------------- next part -------------- > > >>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > >>>> Name: Rhodes 22 MA CL 08.jpg > > >>>> Type: image/jpeg > > >>>> Size: 200670 bytes > > >>>> Desc: not available > > >>>> URL: < > > >>> > > >> > > > https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200826/730b3b80/attachment-0003.jpg__;!!DAxFFaumoJbh!PlQA_WtyYkzS4GNoAcAUUzzOP244-mDGavysZjDcyuTVO4TkE54763UQRjoChQ$ > > >>>> > > >>> > > >>> > > >> > > > > > From stan at generalboats.com Wed Aug 26 17:17:47 2020 From: stan at generalboats.com (stan) Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2020 17:17:47 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Saildrive In-Reply-To: <2132503877.5941900.1598474888368@mail.yahoo.com> References: <2132503877.5941900.1598474888368@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <445f6a14-407b-0471-a2ef-7d3df74aa6f8@generalboats.com> On 8/26/20 4:48 PM, Mark West via Rhodes22-list wrote: > Believe that sailboat 2 maby 3 years ago was in the Annapolis boat show . think sold to some one on west cost Seattle? Stan did design and build one with Torpedo's equipment mounted inside lazaret? ? Mark > > -----Original Message----- > From: Tom Van Heule > To: Scott Andrews ; The Rhodes 22 Email List > Sent: Wed, Aug 26, 2020 4:33 pm > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Saildrive > > Stan had mentioned to me he had an idea where it would even retract, based > on some torqueedo parts. > > On Wed, Aug 26, 2020, 2:17 PM Scott Andrews via Rhodes22-list < > rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote: > >> Electric sail drive would be the ultimate. >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >>> On Aug 26, 2020, at 12:06 PM, Jesse Shumaker < >> jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com> wrote: >>> ?Mark, it sounds like your R22 has even more bells and whistles than >> most! >>> I'm curious about your self tending jib.? I've only seen that feature on >>> larger boats such as Island Packets.? Have you found the self tending jib >>> to work well? >>> >>> Jesse Shumaker >>> S/V Zephyr >>> >>>> On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 10:42 AM Mark Whipple >>>> wrote: >>>> >>>> FWIW, I'm pretty sure the drive is at about the same depth as the keel. >>>> I'll try to take a picture from the side later today. Also the rudder >>>> redirects some of the prop wash since the prop is in front. I haven't >>>> had it in the water yet this year (soon!) but I recall the feeling of >> the >>>> prop wash on the wheel was a little weird. Yes, my boat has a wheel and >> a >>>> self-tending jib, too. Not sure if it will get up on a plane. We'll see. >>>> >>>> Mark >>>> >>>> On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 11:31 AM Ric Stott >>>> wrote: >>>> >>>>> Cory - that?s a really interesting install. >>>>> Is 15 HP enough to get on a plane? >>>>> It would not work for my needs - it?s too deep. >>>>> I would need the prop to be no deeper than the bottom of the keel, and >> I >>>>> would mount it in the middle of the cockpit floor, about a foot aft of >>>> the >>>>> end of the keel,? understanding that the motor head (probably electric >>>> and >>>>> smaller than the Yamaha head) would require a low cover above the >> cockpit >>>>> floor. >>>>> I would also like it to be a steerable sail drive with a remote. >>>>> Not sure that such a thing is even available. >>>>> Thanks >>>>> >>>>> Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP >>>>> www.stottarchitecture.com >>>>> Office? 631-283-1777 >>>>> Cell? ? ? ? ? ? 516-965-3164 >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>>> On Aug 26, 2020, at 11:18 AM, Mark Whipple >>>>> wrote: >>>>>> Ric, >>>>>> >>>>>> Here's a few pictures I dug up. I'm currently hunting for a source for >>>>> the >>>>>> zincs. >>>>>> >>>>>> Mark >>>>>> [image: Rhodes 22 MA CL 03.jpg] >>>>>> [image: Rhodes 22 MA CL 04.jpg] >>>>>> [image: Rhodes 22 MA CL 08.jpg] >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> [image: 20200824_165705.jpg] >>>>>> >>>>>> On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 10:53 AM Richard Stott < >>>>> ric at stottarchitecture.com> >>>>>> wrote: >>>>>> >>>>>>> Mark >>>>>>> 15 HP is a lot of motor. >>>>>>> Can you show us a pic of where its mounted? >>>>>>> Any pics of it under the boat? >>>>>>> Can you share performance and maneuverability with us? >>>>>>> I?m dying to know more about this. >>>>>>> A steerable unit is my fantasy but a fixed one might work. >>>>>>> Ric >>>>>>> sv Dadventure >>>>>>> HBNY >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP >>>>>>> www.stottarchitecture.com >>>>>>> Office? 631-283-1777 >>>>>>> Cell? ? ? ? ? ? 516-965-3164 >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>>> On Aug 26, 2020, at 10:43 AM, Mark Whipple >>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>>> Hi Richard, >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> I purchased my 2000 R22 last year and it came with a 15hp Yamaha >>>>>>> saildrive. >>>>>>>> I haven't had a chance to use the boat much yet, but it seems like >> it >>>>>>> will >>>>>>>> address many of the issues with an outboard on the transom >>>>>>>> (raising/lowering, keeping the drive underwater). >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Unfortunately the company that made this saildrive is essentially >> out >>>>> of >>>>>>>> business. I am concerned about what I'll have to do once this >>>> saildrive >>>>>>>> needs a part I can't get or needs a costly repair. I'm not sure I >>>> like >>>>>>> the >>>>>>>> alternative solutions that involve a motor on the transom. Maybe I >>>> need >>>>>>> to >>>>>>>> start saving my pennies toward a replacement. Regarding that option, >>>>> the >>>>>>>> saildrives I've seen tend to have larger engine than mine - often a >>>>>>> diesel. >>>>>>>> Mine is essentially a Yamaha (made by Parsun) outboard head so it's >>>> not >>>>>>>> very tall. Maybe I'll be lucky and not have to solve the replacement >>>>>>>> problem. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Mark >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> -- >>>>>>>> Boston, MA >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* >>>>>>>> 1987 Nimble 30 *For Sale* >>>>>>>> 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 10:14 AM Richard Stott < >>>>>>> ric at stottarchitecture.com> >>>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> Cary >>>>>>>>> My ?84 GB mount broke on spring launch the year and my Yamaha 8 >> went >>>>> in >>>>>>>>> the drink. >>>>>>>>> I purchased a motor mount from West marine immediately so I could >>>>>>> continue >>>>>>>>> to use the boat with a spare motor I happened to have on hand. >>>>>>>>> Its a stinky smoky ?99 Merc 2 stroke, but it always starts and runs >>>>> when >>>>>>>>> it need it - well almost always. >>>>>>>>> I talked it over on the list and discussed with Mike Riter a plan >> to >>>>>>>>> convert the GB mount to be equipped with a threaded gear (his >>>> sketch) >>>>> so >>>>>>>>> that the mont can be moved with a manual crank or an electric >> motor. >>>>>>>>> This would be huge advantage over the 6/1 tackle it came equipped >>>>> with. >>>>>>>>> I?ve been enjoying the boat too much to stop and refine that design >>>> of >>>>>>>>> Mikes - that?s a winter project. >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> In any case the parallelogram type mount works fairly well, it has >>>>> pros >>>>>>>>> and cons. >>>>>>>>> One of the biggest cons is that the moro in the down position is >>>>> father >>>>>>>>> aft of the transom and will cavitate and lose thrust in larger >>>> waves, >>>>>>>>> especially with weight on the bow. >>>>>>>>> I will like the GB system (modified) over the alternative, but the >>>>> West >>>>>>>>> marine mount was easy to install and serves the immediate need. >>>>>>>>> (What I really want is an electric,? steerable, remote controlled, >>>> 20 >>>>> hp >>>>>>>>> sail drive mounted right behind the keel trunk.) >>>>>>>>> It?s doable for approximately one tone of money. >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> One way I use the boat is unusual. >>>>>>>>> I moore my boat 50 yards off shore. >>>>>>>>> I use a stand-up paddle board for a tender because it's light and >>>> easy >>>>>>> to >>>>>>>>> cary to the shore. >>>>>>>>> I then use the motor only, with the rudder up, to back the boat on >>>> to >>>>>>> the >>>>>>>>> beach to pick up? provisions and of course my wife, who is not one >>>> to >>>>>>>>> paddle out to the boat. >>>>>>>>> Depending on the tide and the slope of the beach, I can sometimes >>>> put >>>>>>> the >>>>>>>>> stern right on the beach. >>>>>>>>> An opening in the stern rail, like the more modern R22s would be a >>>>> huge >>>>>>>>> asset for picking up passengers from the beach. (next year) >>>>>>>>> Ric >>>>>>>>> sv Dadventure >>>>>>>>> stay tuned for ?motor mount mod? updates >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP >>>>>>>>> www.stottarchitecture.com >>>>>>>>> Office? 631-283-1777 >>>>>>>>> Cell? ? ? ? ? ? 516-965-3164 >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> On Aug 26, 2020, at 9:19 AM, Cary Tolbert >>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>>>>> Preview attachment 20200825_174517.jpg >>>>>>>>>> 20200825_174517.jpg >>>>>>>>>> 4 MB >>>>>>>>>> < >> https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=be1ab8c6c5&attid=0.1&permmsgid=msg-a:r-7374969717110164997&th=1742adb6a4937cb8&view=att&disp=safe&realattid=1742adb12d8c3f23bf81 >>>>>>>>>> Once >>>>>>>>>> again HELP. Wed. the 25th I was motoring from my slip out on to >> the >>>>>>> lake >>>>>>>>>> and kerplunk. The motor raising part of the boat fell off with the >>>>>>> motor >>>>>>>>>> attached and still running. I also had it attached with a s/s >>>> chain. >>>>>>>>> Lucky >>>>>>>>>> or not.? ? ? Stan no longer makes the parts for an 86. He said he >>>> has >>>>>>>>> long >>>>>>>>>> moved to newer and hopefully better designs. It seems the >> starboard >>>>>>>>>> material used to let the motor slide in the rails failed. My >>>> question >>>>>>> is >>>>>>>>>> should I attempt to repair with parts of better materials or buy a >>>>>>>>>> gerneric? system for raising and lowering one's motor . Say >>>> something >>>>>>>>> that >>>>>>>>>> would fit a Catalina 22? Looking for advice from the centuries of >>>>>>>>>> experience on the list >>>>>>>>>> Cary Tolbert S/V Whisper '86 >>>>>>>>>> Radford, VA >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> -- >>>>>>>> Boston, MA >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* >>>>>>>> 1986 Nimble 30 *For Sale* >>>>>>>> 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* >>>>>>> >>>>>> -------------- next part -------------- >>>>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >>>>>> Name: 20200824_165705.jpg >>>>>> Type: image/jpeg >>>>>> Size: 652767 bytes >>>>>> Desc: not available >>>>>> URL: < >> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200826/730b3b80/attachment.jpg >>>>>> -------------- next part -------------- >>>>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >>>>>> Name: Rhodes 22 MA CL 03.jpg >>>>>> Type: image/jpeg >>>>>> Size: 61722 bytes >>>>>> Desc: not available >>>>>> URL: < >> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200826/730b3b80/attachment-0001.jpg >>>>>> -------------- next part -------------- >>>>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >>>>>> Name: Rhodes 22 MA CL 04.jpg >>>>>> Type: image/jpeg >>>>>> Size: 79585 bytes >>>>>> Desc: not available >>>>>> URL: < >> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200826/730b3b80/attachment-0002.jpg >>>>>> -------------- next part -------------- >>>>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >>>>>> Name: Rhodes 22 MA CL 08.jpg >>>>>> Type: image/jpeg >>>>>> Size: 200670 bytes >>>>>> Desc: not available >>>>>> URL: < >> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200826/730b3b80/attachment-0003.jpg >>>>> >> From michael.4591 at gmail.com Wed Aug 26 17:26:02 2020 From: michael.4591 at gmail.com (Michael Corley) Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2020 17:26:02 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Annapolis Boat Show Canceled In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Just read in Waterway Guide that the fall boat shows at Annapolis are canceled due to the virus. That is gonna hurt. https://www.waterwayguide.com/latest-news/news/10774/annapolis-announces-cancellation-of-fall-sailboat-and-powerboat-shows?utm_source=iContact&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=news_08-26-2020&utm_content=News+08-26-2020 Mike Corley S/V Ranger Hampton Roads e: 4175718 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200826/9dbe3c61/attachment.jpg > > > From tom.vanheule at intrinsicprograms.com Wed Aug 26 17:30:33 2020 From: tom.vanheule at intrinsicprograms.com (Tom Van Heule) Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2020 16:30:33 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Saildrive In-Reply-To: <445f6a14-407b-0471-a2ef-7d3df74aa6f8@generalboats.com> References: <2132503877.5941900.1598474888368@mail.yahoo.com> <445f6a14-407b-0471-a2ef-7d3df74aa6f8@generalboats.com> Message-ID: Stan, your message was blank. FYI. On Wed, Aug 26, 2020, 4:17 PM stan wrote: > On 8/26/20 4:48 PM, Mark West via Rhodes22-list wrote: > > Believe that sailboat 2 maby 3 years ago was in the Annapolis boat show > . think sold to some one on west cost Seattle? Stan did design and build > one with Torpedo's equipment mounted inside lazaret Mark > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Tom Van Heule > > To: Scott Andrews ; The Rhodes 22 Email List < > rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> > > Sent: Wed, Aug 26, 2020 4:33 pm > > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Saildrive > > > > Stan had mentioned to me he had an idea where it would even retract, > based > > on some torqueedo parts. > > > > On Wed, Aug 26, 2020, 2:17 PM Scott Andrews via Rhodes22-list < > > rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote: > > > >> Electric sail drive would be the ultimate. > >> > >> Sent from my iPhone > >> > >>> On Aug 26, 2020, at 12:06 PM, Jesse Shumaker < > >> jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com> wrote: > >>> ?Mark, it sounds like your R22 has even more bells and whistles than > >> most! > >>> I'm curious about your self tending jib. I've only seen that feature > on > >>> larger boats such as Island Packets. Have you found the self tending > jib > >>> to work well? > >>> > >>> Jesse Shumaker > >>> S/V Zephyr > >>> > >>>> On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 10:42 AM Mark Whipple > > >>>> wrote: > >>>> > >>>> FWIW, I'm pretty sure the drive is at about the same depth as the > keel. > >>>> I'll try to take a picture from the side later today. Also the rudder > >>>> redirects some of the prop wash since the prop is in front. I haven't > >>>> had it in the water yet this year (soon!) but I recall the feeling of > >> the > >>>> prop wash on the wheel was a little weird. Yes, my boat has a wheel > and > >> a > >>>> self-tending jib, too. Not sure if it will get up on a plane. We'll > see. > >>>> > >>>> Mark > >>>> > >>>> On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 11:31 AM Ric Stott > > >>>> wrote: > >>>> > >>>>> Cory - that?s a really interesting install. > >>>>> Is 15 HP enough to get on a plane? > >>>>> It would not work for my needs - it?s too deep. > >>>>> I would need the prop to be no deeper than the bottom of the keel, > and > >> I > >>>>> would mount it in the middle of the cockpit floor, about a foot aft > of > >>>> the > >>>>> end of the keel, understanding that the motor head (probably > electric > >>>> and > >>>>> smaller than the Yamaha head) would require a low cover above the > >> cockpit > >>>>> floor. > >>>>> I would also like it to be a steerable sail drive with a remote. > >>>>> Not sure that such a thing is even available. > >>>>> Thanks > >>>>> > >>>>> Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP > >>>>> www.stottarchitecture.com > >>>>> Office 631-283-1777 > >>>>> Cell 516-965-3164 > >>>>> > >>>>> > >>>>> > >>>>> > >>>>> > >>>>>> On Aug 26, 2020, at 11:18 AM, Mark Whipple > >>>>> wrote: > >>>>>> Ric, > >>>>>> > >>>>>> Here's a few pictures I dug up. I'm currently hunting for a source > for > >>>>> the > >>>>>> zincs. > >>>>>> > >>>>>> Mark > >>>>>> [image: Rhodes 22 MA CL 03.jpg] > >>>>>> [image: Rhodes 22 MA CL 04.jpg] > >>>>>> [image: Rhodes 22 MA CL 08.jpg] > >>>>>> > >>>>>> > >>>>>> [image: 20200824_165705.jpg] > >>>>>> > >>>>>> On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 10:53 AM Richard Stott < > >>>>> ric at stottarchitecture.com> > >>>>>> wrote: > >>>>>> > >>>>>>> Mark > >>>>>>> 15 HP is a lot of motor. > >>>>>>> Can you show us a pic of where its mounted? > >>>>>>> Any pics of it under the boat? > >>>>>>> Can you share performance and maneuverability with us? > >>>>>>> I?m dying to know more about this. > >>>>>>> A steerable unit is my fantasy but a fixed one might work. > >>>>>>> Ric > >>>>>>> sv Dadventure > >>>>>>> HBNY > >>>>>>> > >>>>>>> Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP > >>>>>>> www.stottarchitecture.com > >>>>>>> Office 631-283-1777 > >>>>>>> Cell 516-965-3164 > >>>>>>> > >>>>>>> > >>>>>>> > >>>>>>> > >>>>>>> > >>>>>>>> On Aug 26, 2020, at 10:43 AM, Mark Whipple < > mark at whipplefamily.com> > >>>>>>> wrote: > >>>>>>>> Hi Richard, > >>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>> I purchased my 2000 R22 last year and it came with a 15hp Yamaha > >>>>>>> saildrive. > >>>>>>>> I haven't had a chance to use the boat much yet, but it seems like > >> it > >>>>>>> will > >>>>>>>> address many of the issues with an outboard on the transom > >>>>>>>> (raising/lowering, keeping the drive underwater). > >>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>> Unfortunately the company that made this saildrive is essentially > >> out > >>>>> of > >>>>>>>> business. I am concerned about what I'll have to do once this > >>>> saildrive > >>>>>>>> needs a part I can't get or needs a costly repair. I'm not sure I > >>>> like > >>>>>>> the > >>>>>>>> alternative solutions that involve a motor on the transom. Maybe I > >>>> need > >>>>>>> to > >>>>>>>> start saving my pennies toward a replacement. Regarding that > option, > >>>>> the > >>>>>>>> saildrives I've seen tend to have larger engine than mine - often > a > >>>>>>> diesel. > >>>>>>>> Mine is essentially a Yamaha (made by Parsun) outboard head so > it's > >>>> not > >>>>>>>> very tall. Maybe I'll be lucky and not have to solve the > replacement > >>>>>>>> problem. > >>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>> Mark > >>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>> -- > >>>>>>>> Boston, MA > >>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>> 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* > >>>>>>>> 1987 Nimble 30 *For Sale* > >>>>>>>> 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* > >>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>> On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 10:14 AM Richard Stott < > >>>>>>> ric at stottarchitecture.com> > >>>>>>>> wrote: > >>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>> Cary > >>>>>>>>> My ?84 GB mount broke on spring launch the year and my Yamaha 8 > >> went > >>>>> in > >>>>>>>>> the drink. > >>>>>>>>> I purchased a motor mount from West marine immediately so I could > >>>>>>> continue > >>>>>>>>> to use the boat with a spare motor I happened to have on hand. > >>>>>>>>> Its a stinky smoky ?99 Merc 2 stroke, but it always starts and > runs > >>>>> when > >>>>>>>>> it need it - well almost always. > >>>>>>>>> I talked it over on the list and discussed with Mike Riter a plan > >> to > >>>>>>>>> convert the GB mount to be equipped with a threaded gear (his > >>>> sketch) > >>>>> so > >>>>>>>>> that the mont can be moved with a manual crank or an electric > >> motor. > >>>>>>>>> This would be huge advantage over the 6/1 tackle it came equipped > >>>>> with. > >>>>>>>>> I?ve been enjoying the boat too much to stop and refine that > design > >>>> of > >>>>>>>>> Mikes - that?s a winter project. > >>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>> In any case the parallelogram type mount works fairly well, it > has > >>>>> pros > >>>>>>>>> and cons. > >>>>>>>>> One of the biggest cons is that the moro in the down position is > >>>>> father > >>>>>>>>> aft of the transom and will cavitate and lose thrust in larger > >>>> waves, > >>>>>>>>> especially with weight on the bow. > >>>>>>>>> I will like the GB system (modified) over the alternative, but > the > >>>>> West > >>>>>>>>> marine mount was easy to install and serves the immediate need. > >>>>>>>>> (What I really want is an electric, steerable, remote > controlled, > >>>> 20 > >>>>> hp > >>>>>>>>> sail drive mounted right behind the keel trunk.) > >>>>>>>>> It?s doable for approximately one tone of money. > >>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>> One way I use the boat is unusual. > >>>>>>>>> I moore my boat 50 yards off shore. > >>>>>>>>> I use a stand-up paddle board for a tender because it's light and > >>>> easy > >>>>>>> to > >>>>>>>>> cary to the shore. > >>>>>>>>> I then use the motor only, with the rudder up, to back the boat > on > >>>> to > >>>>>>> the > >>>>>>>>> beach to pick up provisions and of course my wife, who is not > one > >>>> to > >>>>>>>>> paddle out to the boat. > >>>>>>>>> Depending on the tide and the slope of the beach, I can sometimes > >>>> put > >>>>>>> the > >>>>>>>>> stern right on the beach. > >>>>>>>>> An opening in the stern rail, like the more modern R22s would be > a > >>>>> huge > >>>>>>>>> asset for picking up passengers from the beach. (next year) > >>>>>>>>> Ric > >>>>>>>>> sv Dadventure > >>>>>>>>> stay tuned for ?motor mount mod? updates > >>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>> Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP > >>>>>>>>> www.stottarchitecture.com > >>>>>>>>> Office 631-283-1777 > >>>>>>>>> Cell 516-965-3164 > >>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>>> On Aug 26, 2020, at 9:19 AM, Cary Tolbert < > retiredtoby at gmail.com> > >>>>>>> wrote: > >>>>>>>>>> Preview attachment 20200825_174517.jpg > >>>>>>>>>> 20200825_174517.jpg > >>>>>>>>>> 4 MB > >>>>>>>>>> < > >> > https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=be1ab8c6c5&attid=0.1&permmsgid=msg-a:r-7374969717110164997&th=1742adb6a4937cb8&view=att&disp=safe&realattid=1742adb12d8c3f23bf81 > >>>>>>>>>> Once > >>>>>>>>>> again HELP. Wed. the 25th I was motoring from my slip out on to > >> the > >>>>>>> lake > >>>>>>>>>> and kerplunk. The motor raising part of the boat fell off with > the > >>>>>>> motor > >>>>>>>>>> attached and still running. I also had it attached with a s/s > >>>> chain. > >>>>>>>>> Lucky > >>>>>>>>>> or not.? ? ? Stan no longer makes the parts for an 86. He said > he > >>>> has > >>>>>>>>> long > >>>>>>>>>> moved to newer and hopefully better designs. It seems the > >> starboard > >>>>>>>>>> material used to let the motor slide in the rails failed. My > >>>> question > >>>>>>> is > >>>>>>>>>> should I attempt to repair with parts of better materials or > buy a > >>>>>>>>>> gerneric system for raising and lowering one's motor . Say > >>>> something > >>>>>>>>> that > >>>>>>>>>> would fit a Catalina 22? Looking for advice from the centuries > of > >>>>>>>>>> experience on the list > >>>>>>>>>> Cary Tolbert S/V Whisper '86 > >>>>>>>>>> Radford, VA > >>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>> -- > >>>>>>>> Boston, MA > >>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>> 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* > >>>>>>>> 1986 Nimble 30 *For Sale* > >>>>>>>> 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* > >>>>>>> > >>>>>> -------------- next part -------------- > >>>>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > >>>>>> Name: 20200824_165705.jpg > >>>>>> Type: image/jpeg > >>>>>> Size: 652767 bytes > >>>>>> Desc: not available > >>>>>> URL: < > >> > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200826/730b3b80/attachment.jpg > >>>>>> -------------- next part -------------- > >>>>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > >>>>>> Name: Rhodes 22 MA CL 03.jpg > >>>>>> Type: image/jpeg > >>>>>> Size: 61722 bytes > >>>>>> Desc: not available > >>>>>> URL: < > >> > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200826/730b3b80/attachment-0001.jpg > >>>>>> -------------- next part -------------- > >>>>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > >>>>>> Name: Rhodes 22 MA CL 04.jpg > >>>>>> Type: image/jpeg > >>>>>> Size: 79585 bytes > >>>>>> Desc: not available > >>>>>> URL: < > >> > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200826/730b3b80/attachment-0002.jpg > >>>>>> -------------- next part -------------- > >>>>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > >>>>>> Name: Rhodes 22 MA CL 08.jpg > >>>>>> Type: image/jpeg > >>>>>> Size: 200670 bytes > >>>>>> Desc: not available > >>>>>> URL: < > >> > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200826/730b3b80/attachment-0003.jpg > >>>>> > >> > > From sea20 at verizon.net Wed Aug 26 17:39:34 2020 From: sea20 at verizon.net (Scott Andrews) Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2020 17:39:34 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Saildrive In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <38A61506-66EC-4DBA-AF1B-941B278796CD@verizon.net> Retractable would be great. I?m going to ask him about it later this fall if I can get down there. Sent from my iPhone > On Aug 26, 2020, at 5:07 PM, Chris Cowie wrote: > > ?I did a lot of research with sail drives and with torqeedo on various options including the one Stan installed on one of the test boats. The sail drive seemed the most interesting idea however it is bulky and expensive. > > Christopher P. Cowie > > 4200 Massachusetts Ave NW 119 > Washington DC, 20016 > 202.270.1470 mobile > [ccowie at cowieassociates.com] > > > > Please consider the environment before printing this email. > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of Weiss, Robert L > Sent: Wednesday, August 26, 2020 5:00 PM > To: Mark West ; The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Saildrive > > Three years ago I went out and did some volunteer work for Stan and also helped out at the boat show. I worked on that boat with the electric motor in the lazarette. He built a well in the lazarette and the motor was on a lift system that pulled it up into the well when not used so less drag. It was to be connected wirelessly to a throttle mounted on the gunnel. > > Bob > > Robert L Weiss Jr. > Director of Music > First United Methodist Carbondale, IL > Professor Emeritus, SIUC > ________________________________ > From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of Mark West via Rhodes22-list > Sent: Wednesday, August 26, 2020 3:48 PM > To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Saildrive > > [EXTERNAL EMAIL ALERT]: Verify sender before opening links or attachments. > > Believe that sailboat 2 maby 3 years ago was in the Annapolis boat show . think sold to some one on west cost Seattle? Stan did design and build one with Torpedo's equipment mounted inside lazaret Mark > > -----Original Message----- > From: Tom Van Heule > To: Scott Andrews ; The Rhodes 22 Email List > Sent: Wed, Aug 26, 2020 4:33 pm > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Saildrive > > Stan had mentioned to me he had an idea where it would even retract, based on some torqueedo parts. > >> On Wed, Aug 26, 2020, 2:17 PM Scott Andrews via Rhodes22-list < rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote: >> >> Electric sail drive would be the ultimate. >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >>> On Aug 26, 2020, at 12:06 PM, Jesse Shumaker < >> jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com> wrote: >>> >>> ?Mark, it sounds like your R22 has even more bells and whistles than >> most! >>> I'm curious about your self tending jib. I've only seen that >>> feature on larger boats such as Island Packets. Have you found the >>> self tending jib to work well? >>> >>> Jesse Shumaker >>> S/V Zephyr >>> >>>> On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 10:42 AM Mark Whipple >>>> >>>> wrote: >>>> >>>> FWIW, I'm pretty sure the drive is at about the same depth as the keel. >>>> I'll try to take a picture from the side later today. Also the >>>> rudder redirects some of the prop wash since the prop is in front. >>>> I haven't had it in the water yet this year (soon!) but I recall >>>> the feeling of >> the >>>> prop wash on the wheel was a little weird. Yes, my boat has a wheel >>>> and >> a >>>> self-tending jib, too. Not sure if it will get up on a plane. We'll see. >>>> >>>> Mark >>>> >>>> On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 11:31 AM Ric Stott >>>> >>>> wrote: >>>> >>>>> Cory - that?s a really interesting install. >>>>> Is 15 HP enough to get on a plane? >>>>> It would not work for my needs - it?s too deep. >>>>> I would need the prop to be no deeper than the bottom of the keel, >>>>> and >> I >>>>> would mount it in the middle of the cockpit floor, about a foot >>>>> aft of >>>> the >>>>> end of the keel, understanding that the motor head (probably >>>>> electric >>>> and >>>>> smaller than the Yamaha head) would require a low cover above the >> cockpit >>>>> floor. >>>>> I would also like it to be a steerable sail drive with a remote. >>>>> Not sure that such a thing is even available. >>>>> Thanks >>>>> >>>>> Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP >>>>> https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://www.stottarchitecture.com__;!!D >>>>> AxFFaumoJbh!PlQA_WtyYkzS4GNoAcAUUzzOP244-mDGavysZjDcyuTVO4TkE54763 >>>>> WQgVV9UQ$ >>>>> Office 631-283-1777 >>>>> Cell 516-965-3164 >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>>> On Aug 26, 2020, at 11:18 AM, Mark Whipple >>>>>> >>>>> wrote: >>>>>> >>>>>> Ric, >>>>>> >>>>>> Here's a few pictures I dug up. I'm currently hunting for a >>>>>> source for >>>>> the >>>>>> zincs. >>>>>> >>>>>> Mark >>>>>> [image: Rhodes 22 MA CL 03.jpg] >>>>>> [image: Rhodes 22 MA CL 04.jpg] >>>>>> [image: Rhodes 22 MA CL 08.jpg] >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> [image: 20200824_165705.jpg] >>>>>> >>>>>> On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 10:53 AM Richard Stott < >>>>> ric at stottarchitecture.com> >>>>>> wrote: >>>>>> >>>>>>> Mark >>>>>>> 15 HP is a lot of motor. >>>>>>> Can you show us a pic of where its mounted? >>>>>>> Any pics of it under the boat? >>>>>>> Can you share performance and maneuverability with us? >>>>>>> I?m dying to know more about this. >>>>>>> A steerable unit is my fantasy but a fixed one might work. >>>>>>> Ric >>>>>>> sv Dadventure >>>>>>> HBNY >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP >>>>>>> https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://www.stottarchitecture.com__;! >>>>>>> !DAxFFaumoJbh!PlQA_WtyYkzS4GNoAcAUUzzOP244-mDGavysZjDcyuTVO4TkE5 >>>>>>> 4763WQgVV9UQ$ >>>>>>> Office 631-283-1777 >>>>>>> Cell 516-965-3164 >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>>> On Aug 26, 2020, at 10:43 AM, Mark Whipple >>>>>>>> >>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Hi Richard, >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> I purchased my 2000 R22 last year and it came with a 15hp >>>>>>>> Yamaha >>>>>>> saildrive. >>>>>>>> I haven't had a chance to use the boat much yet, but it seems >>>>>>>> like >> it >>>>>>> will >>>>>>>> address many of the issues with an outboard on the transom >>>>>>>> (raising/lowering, keeping the drive underwater). >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Unfortunately the company that made this saildrive is >>>>>>>> essentially >> out >>>>> of >>>>>>>> business. I am concerned about what I'll have to do once this >>>> saildrive >>>>>>>> needs a part I can't get or needs a costly repair. I'm not sure >>>>>>>> I >>>> like >>>>>>> the >>>>>>>> alternative solutions that involve a motor on the transom. >>>>>>>> Maybe I >>>> need >>>>>>> to >>>>>>>> start saving my pennies toward a replacement. Regarding that >>>>>>>> option, >>>>> the >>>>>>>> saildrives I've seen tend to have larger engine than mine - >>>>>>>> often a >>>>>>> diesel. >>>>>>>> Mine is essentially a Yamaha (made by Parsun) outboard head so >>>>>>>> it's >>>> not >>>>>>>> very tall. Maybe I'll be lucky and not have to solve the >>>>>>>> replacement problem. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Mark >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> -- >>>>>>>> Boston, MA >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* >>>>>>>> 1987 Nimble 30 *For Sale* >>>>>>>> 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 10:14 AM Richard Stott < >>>>>>> ric at stottarchitecture.com> >>>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> Cary >>>>>>>>> My ?84 GB mount broke on spring launch the year and my Yamaha >>>>>>>>> 8 >> went >>>>> in >>>>>>>>> the drink. >>>>>>>>> I purchased a motor mount from West marine immediately so I >>>>>>>>> could >>>>>>> continue >>>>>>>>> to use the boat with a spare motor I happened to have on hand. >>>>>>>>> Its a stinky smoky ?99 Merc 2 stroke, but it always starts and >>>>>>>>> runs >>>>> when >>>>>>>>> it need it - well almost always. >>>>>>>>> I talked it over on the list and discussed with Mike Riter a >>>>>>>>> plan >> to >>>>>>>>> convert the GB mount to be equipped with a threaded gear (his >>>> sketch) >>>>> so >>>>>>>>> that the mont can be moved with a manual crank or an electric >> motor. >>>>>>>>> This would be huge advantage over the 6/1 tackle it came >>>>>>>>> equipped >>>>> with. >>>>>>>>> I?ve been enjoying the boat too much to stop and refine that >>>>>>>>> design >>>> of >>>>>>>>> Mikes - that?s a winter project. >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> In any case the parallelogram type mount works fairly well, it >>>>>>>>> has >>>>> pros >>>>>>>>> and cons. >>>>>>>>> One of the biggest cons is that the moro in the down position >>>>>>>>> is >>>>> father >>>>>>>>> aft of the transom and will cavitate and lose thrust in larger >>>> waves, >>>>>>>>> especially with weight on the bow. >>>>>>>>> I will like the GB system (modified) over the alternative, but >>>>>>>>> the >>>>> West >>>>>>>>> marine mount was easy to install and serves the immediate need. >>>>>>>>> (What I really want is an electric, steerable, remote >>>>>>>>> controlled, >>>> 20 >>>>> hp >>>>>>>>> sail drive mounted right behind the keel trunk.) It?s doable >>>>>>>>> for approximately one tone of money. >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> One way I use the boat is unusual. >>>>>>>>> I moore my boat 50 yards off shore. >>>>>>>>> I use a stand-up paddle board for a tender because it's light >>>>>>>>> and >>>> easy >>>>>>> to >>>>>>>>> cary to the shore. >>>>>>>>> I then use the motor only, with the rudder up, to back the >>>>>>>>> boat on >>>> to >>>>>>> the >>>>>>>>> beach to pick up provisions and of course my wife, who is not >>>>>>>>> one >>>> to >>>>>>>>> paddle out to the boat. >>>>>>>>> Depending on the tide and the slope of the beach, I can >>>>>>>>> sometimes >>>> put >>>>>>> the >>>>>>>>> stern right on the beach. >>>>>>>>> An opening in the stern rail, like the more modern R22s would >>>>>>>>> be a >>>>> huge >>>>>>>>> asset for picking up passengers from the beach. (next year) >>>>>>>>> Ric sv Dadventure stay tuned for ?motor mount mod? updates >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP >>>>>>>>> https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://www.stottarchitecture.com__ >>>>>>>>> ;!!DAxFFaumoJbh!PlQA_WtyYkzS4GNoAcAUUzzOP244-mDGavysZjDcyuTVO4TkE54763WQgVV9UQ$ Office 631-283-1777 >>>>>>>>> Cell 516-965-3164 >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> On Aug 26, 2020, at 9:19 AM, Cary Tolbert >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> Preview attachment 20200825_174517.jpg 20200825_174517.jpg >>>>>>>>>> 4 MB >>>>>>>>>> < >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>> >>>> >> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=b >> e1ab8c6c5&attid=0.1&permmsgid=msg-a:r-7374969717110164997&th=1742adb6a >> 4937cb8&view=att&disp=safe&realattid=1742adb12d8c3f23bf81__;!!DAxFFaum >> oJbh!PlQA_WtyYkzS4GNoAcAUUzzOP244-mDGavysZjDcyuTVO4TkE54763UrqbKnIw$ >>>>>>>>>> Once >>>>>>>>>> again HELP. Wed. the 25th I was motoring from my slip out on >>>>>>>>>> to >> the >>>>>>> lake >>>>>>>>>> and kerplunk. The motor raising part of the boat fell off >>>>>>>>>> with the >>>>>>> motor >>>>>>>>>> attached and still running. I also had it attached with a s/s >>>> chain. >>>>>>>>> Lucky >>>>>>>>>> or not.? ? ? Stan no longer makes the parts for an 86. He >>>>>>>>>> said he >>>> has >>>>>>>>> long >>>>>>>>>> moved to newer and hopefully better designs. It seems the >> starboard >>>>>>>>>> material used to let the motor slide in the rails failed. My >>>> question >>>>>>> is >>>>>>>>>> should I attempt to repair with parts of better materials or >>>>>>>>>> buy a gerneric system for raising and lowering one's motor . >>>>>>>>>> Say >>>> something >>>>>>>>> that >>>>>>>>>> would fit a Catalina 22? Looking for advice from the >>>>>>>>>> centuries of experience on the list Cary Tolbert S/V Whisper >>>>>>>>>> '86 Radford, VA >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> -- >>>>>>>> Boston, MA >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* >>>>>>>> 1986 Nimble 30 *For Sale* >>>>>>>> 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>> -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was >>>>>> scrubbed... >>>>>> Name: 20200824_165705.jpg >>>>>> Type: image/jpeg >>>>>> Size: 652767 bytes >>>>>> Desc: not available >>>>>> URL: < >>>>> >>>> >> https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-lis >> t/attachments/20200826/730b3b80/attachment.jpg__;!!DAxFFaumoJbh!PlQA_W >> tyYkzS4GNoAcAUUzzOP244-mDGavysZjDcyuTVO4TkE54763XjNYun2Q$ >>>>>> >>>>>> -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was >>>>>> scrubbed... >>>>>> Name: Rhodes 22 MA CL 03.jpg >>>>>> Type: image/jpeg >>>>>> Size: 61722 bytes >>>>>> Desc: not available >>>>>> URL: < >>>>> >>>> >> https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-lis >> t/attachments/20200826/730b3b80/attachment-0001.jpg__;!!DAxFFaumoJbh!P >> lQA_WtyYkzS4GNoAcAUUzzOP244-mDGavysZjDcyuTVO4TkE54763XDKlETPg$ >>>>>> >>>>>> -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was >>>>>> scrubbed... >>>>>> Name: Rhodes 22 MA CL 04.jpg >>>>>> Type: image/jpeg >>>>>> Size: 79585 bytes >>>>>> Desc: not available >>>>>> URL: < >>>>> >>>> >> https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-lis >> t/attachments/20200826/730b3b80/attachment-0002.jpg__;!!DAxFFaumoJbh!P >> lQA_WtyYkzS4GNoAcAUUzzOP244-mDGavysZjDcyuTVO4TkE54763XB6rYtFw$ >>>>>> >>>>>> -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was >>>>>> scrubbed... >>>>>> Name: Rhodes 22 MA CL 08.jpg >>>>>> Type: image/jpeg >>>>>> Size: 200670 bytes >>>>>> Desc: not available >>>>>> URL: < >>>>> >>>> >> https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-lis >> t/attachments/20200826/730b3b80/attachment-0003.jpg__;!!DAxFFaumoJbh!P >> lQA_WtyYkzS4GNoAcAUUzzOP244-mDGavysZjDcyuTVO4TkE54763UQRjoChQ$ >>>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>> >> >> From stan at generalboats.com Wed Aug 26 17:41:05 2020 From: stan at generalboats.com (stan) Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2020 17:41:05 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Saildrive In-Reply-To: References: <2132503877.5941900.1598474888368@mail.yahoo.com> <445f6a14-407b-0471-a2ef-7d3df74aa6f8@generalboats.com> Message-ID: <6de95b8c-47dc-7a24-eaaf-44cb35942a79@generalboats.com> error -? ignore On 8/26/20 5:30 PM, Tom Van Heule wrote: > Stan, your message was blank. FYI. > > On Wed, Aug 26, 2020, 4:17 PM stan wrote: > >> On 8/26/20 4:48 PM, Mark West via Rhodes22-list wrote: >>> Believe that sailboat 2 maby 3 years ago was in the Annapolis boat show >> . think sold to some one on west cost Seattle? Stan did design and build >> one with Torpedo's equipment mounted inside lazaret Mark >>> -----Original Message----- >>> From: Tom Van Heule >>> To: Scott Andrews ; The Rhodes 22 Email List < >> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> >>> Sent: Wed, Aug 26, 2020 4:33 pm >>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Saildrive >>> >>> Stan had mentioned to me he had an idea where it would even retract, >> based >>> on some torqueedo parts. >>> >>> On Wed, Aug 26, 2020, 2:17 PM Scott Andrews via Rhodes22-list < >>> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote: >>> >>>> Electric sail drive would be the ultimate. >>>> >>>> Sent from my iPhone >>>> >>>>> On Aug 26, 2020, at 12:06 PM, Jesse Shumaker < >>>> jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com> wrote: >>>>> ?Mark, it sounds like your R22 has even more bells and whistles than >>>> most! >>>>> I'm curious about your self tending jib. I've only seen that feature >> on >>>>> larger boats such as Island Packets. Have you found the self tending >> jib >>>>> to work well? >>>>> >>>>> Jesse Shumaker >>>>> S/V Zephyr >>>>> >>>>>> On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 10:42 AM Mark Whipple >>>>> wrote: >>>>>> >>>>>> FWIW, I'm pretty sure the drive is at about the same depth as the >> keel. >>>>>> I'll try to take a picture from the side later today. Also the rudder >>>>>> redirects some of the prop wash since the prop is in front. I haven't >>>>>> had it in the water yet this year (soon!) but I recall the feeling of >>>> the >>>>>> prop wash on the wheel was a little weird. Yes, my boat has a wheel >> and >>>> a >>>>>> self-tending jib, too. Not sure if it will get up on a plane. We'll >> see. >>>>>> Mark >>>>>> >>>>>> On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 11:31 AM Ric Stott >>>>> wrote: >>>>>> >>>>>>> Cory - that?s a really interesting install. >>>>>>> Is 15 HP enough to get on a plane? >>>>>>> It would not work for my needs - it?s too deep. >>>>>>> I would need the prop to be no deeper than the bottom of the keel, >> and >>>> I >>>>>>> would mount it in the middle of the cockpit floor, about a foot aft >> of >>>>>> the >>>>>>> end of the keel, understanding that the motor head (probably >> electric >>>>>> and >>>>>>> smaller than the Yamaha head) would require a low cover above the >>>> cockpit >>>>>>> floor. >>>>>>> I would also like it to be a steerable sail drive with a remote. >>>>>>> Not sure that such a thing is even available. >>>>>>> Thanks >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP >>>>>>> www.stottarchitecture.com >>>>>>> Office 631-283-1777 >>>>>>> Cell 516-965-3164 >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>>> On Aug 26, 2020, at 11:18 AM, Mark Whipple >>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>>> Ric, >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Here's a few pictures I dug up. I'm currently hunting for a source >> for >>>>>>> the >>>>>>>> zincs. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Mark >>>>>>>> [image: Rhodes 22 MA CL 03.jpg] >>>>>>>> [image: Rhodes 22 MA CL 04.jpg] >>>>>>>> [image: Rhodes 22 MA CL 08.jpg] >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> [image: 20200824_165705.jpg] >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 10:53 AM Richard Stott < >>>>>>> ric at stottarchitecture.com> >>>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> Mark >>>>>>>>> 15 HP is a lot of motor. >>>>>>>>> Can you show us a pic of where its mounted? >>>>>>>>> Any pics of it under the boat? >>>>>>>>> Can you share performance and maneuverability with us? >>>>>>>>> I?m dying to know more about this. >>>>>>>>> A steerable unit is my fantasy but a fixed one might work. >>>>>>>>> Ric >>>>>>>>> sv Dadventure >>>>>>>>> HBNY >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP >>>>>>>>> www.stottarchitecture.com >>>>>>>>> Office 631-283-1777 >>>>>>>>> Cell 516-965-3164 >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> On Aug 26, 2020, at 10:43 AM, Mark Whipple < >> mark at whipplefamily.com> >>>>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>>>>> Hi Richard, >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> I purchased my 2000 R22 last year and it came with a 15hp Yamaha >>>>>>>>> saildrive. >>>>>>>>>> I haven't had a chance to use the boat much yet, but it seems like >>>> it >>>>>>>>> will >>>>>>>>>> address many of the issues with an outboard on the transom >>>>>>>>>> (raising/lowering, keeping the drive underwater). >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> Unfortunately the company that made this saildrive is essentially >>>> out >>>>>>> of >>>>>>>>>> business. I am concerned about what I'll have to do once this >>>>>> saildrive >>>>>>>>>> needs a part I can't get or needs a costly repair. I'm not sure I >>>>>> like >>>>>>>>> the >>>>>>>>>> alternative solutions that involve a motor on the transom. Maybe I >>>>>> need >>>>>>>>> to >>>>>>>>>> start saving my pennies toward a replacement. Regarding that >> option, >>>>>>> the >>>>>>>>>> saildrives I've seen tend to have larger engine than mine - often >> a >>>>>>>>> diesel. >>>>>>>>>> Mine is essentially a Yamaha (made by Parsun) outboard head so >> it's >>>>>> not >>>>>>>>>> very tall. Maybe I'll be lucky and not have to solve the >> replacement >>>>>>>>>> problem. >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> Mark >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> -- >>>>>>>>>> Boston, MA >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* >>>>>>>>>> 1987 Nimble 30 *For Sale* >>>>>>>>>> 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 10:14 AM Richard Stott < >>>>>>>>> ric at stottarchitecture.com> >>>>>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> Cary >>>>>>>>>>> My ?84 GB mount broke on spring launch the year and my Yamaha 8 >>>> went >>>>>>> in >>>>>>>>>>> the drink. >>>>>>>>>>> I purchased a motor mount from West marine immediately so I could >>>>>>>>> continue >>>>>>>>>>> to use the boat with a spare motor I happened to have on hand. >>>>>>>>>>> Its a stinky smoky ?99 Merc 2 stroke, but it always starts and >> runs >>>>>>> when >>>>>>>>>>> it need it - well almost always. >>>>>>>>>>> I talked it over on the list and discussed with Mike Riter a plan >>>> to >>>>>>>>>>> convert the GB mount to be equipped with a threaded gear (his >>>>>> sketch) >>>>>>> so >>>>>>>>>>> that the mont can be moved with a manual crank or an electric >>>> motor. >>>>>>>>>>> This would be huge advantage over the 6/1 tackle it came equipped >>>>>>> with. >>>>>>>>>>> I?ve been enjoying the boat too much to stop and refine that >> design >>>>>> of >>>>>>>>>>> Mikes - that?s a winter project. >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> In any case the parallelogram type mount works fairly well, it >> has >>>>>>> pros >>>>>>>>>>> and cons. >>>>>>>>>>> One of the biggest cons is that the moro in the down position is >>>>>>> father >>>>>>>>>>> aft of the transom and will cavitate and lose thrust in larger >>>>>> waves, >>>>>>>>>>> especially with weight on the bow. >>>>>>>>>>> I will like the GB system (modified) over the alternative, but >> the >>>>>>> West >>>>>>>>>>> marine mount was easy to install and serves the immediate need. >>>>>>>>>>> (What I really want is an electric, steerable, remote >> controlled, >>>>>> 20 >>>>>>> hp >>>>>>>>>>> sail drive mounted right behind the keel trunk.) >>>>>>>>>>> It?s doable for approximately one tone of money. >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> One way I use the boat is unusual. >>>>>>>>>>> I moore my boat 50 yards off shore. >>>>>>>>>>> I use a stand-up paddle board for a tender because it's light and >>>>>> easy >>>>>>>>> to >>>>>>>>>>> cary to the shore. >>>>>>>>>>> I then use the motor only, with the rudder up, to back the boat >> on >>>>>> to >>>>>>>>> the >>>>>>>>>>> beach to pick up provisions and of course my wife, who is not >> one >>>>>> to >>>>>>>>>>> paddle out to the boat. >>>>>>>>>>> Depending on the tide and the slope of the beach, I can sometimes >>>>>> put >>>>>>>>> the >>>>>>>>>>> stern right on the beach. >>>>>>>>>>> An opening in the stern rail, like the more modern R22s would be >> a >>>>>>> huge >>>>>>>>>>> asset for picking up passengers from the beach. (next year) >>>>>>>>>>> Ric >>>>>>>>>>> sv Dadventure >>>>>>>>>>> stay tuned for ?motor mount mod? updates >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP >>>>>>>>>>> www.stottarchitecture.com >>>>>>>>>>> Office 631-283-1777 >>>>>>>>>>> Cell 516-965-3164 >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> On Aug 26, 2020, at 9:19 AM, Cary Tolbert < >> retiredtoby at gmail.com> >>>>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>>>>>>> Preview attachment 20200825_174517.jpg >>>>>>>>>>>> 20200825_174517.jpg >>>>>>>>>>>> 4 MB >>>>>>>>>>>> < >> https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=be1ab8c6c5&attid=0.1&permmsgid=msg-a:r-7374969717110164997&th=1742adb6a4937cb8&view=att&disp=safe&realattid=1742adb12d8c3f23bf81 >>>>>>>>>>>> Once >>>>>>>>>>>> again HELP. Wed. the 25th I was motoring from my slip out on to >>>> the >>>>>>>>> lake >>>>>>>>>>>> and kerplunk. The motor raising part of the boat fell off with >> the >>>>>>>>> motor >>>>>>>>>>>> attached and still running. I also had it attached with a s/s >>>>>> chain. >>>>>>>>>>> Lucky >>>>>>>>>>>> or not.? ? ? Stan no longer makes the parts for an 86. He said >> he >>>>>> has >>>>>>>>>>> long >>>>>>>>>>>> moved to newer and hopefully better designs. It seems the >>>> starboard >>>>>>>>>>>> material used to let the motor slide in the rails failed. My >>>>>> question >>>>>>>>> is >>>>>>>>>>>> should I attempt to repair with parts of better materials or >> buy a >>>>>>>>>>>> gerneric system for raising and lowering one's motor . Say >>>>>> something >>>>>>>>>>> that >>>>>>>>>>>> would fit a Catalina 22? Looking for advice from the centuries >> of >>>>>>>>>>>> experience on the list >>>>>>>>>>>> Cary Tolbert S/V Whisper '86 >>>>>>>>>>>> Radford, VA >>>>>>>>>> -- >>>>>>>>>> Boston, MA >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* >>>>>>>>>> 1986 Nimble 30 *For Sale* >>>>>>>>>> 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* >>>>>>>> -------------- next part -------------- >>>>>>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >>>>>>>> Name: 20200824_165705.jpg >>>>>>>> Type: image/jpeg >>>>>>>> Size: 652767 bytes >>>>>>>> Desc: not available >>>>>>>> URL: < >> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200826/730b3b80/attachment.jpg >>>>>>>> -------------- next part -------------- >>>>>>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >>>>>>>> Name: Rhodes 22 MA CL 03.jpg >>>>>>>> Type: image/jpeg >>>>>>>> Size: 61722 bytes >>>>>>>> Desc: not available >>>>>>>> URL: < >> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200826/730b3b80/attachment-0001.jpg >>>>>>>> -------------- next part -------------- >>>>>>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >>>>>>>> Name: Rhodes 22 MA CL 04.jpg >>>>>>>> Type: image/jpeg >>>>>>>> Size: 79585 bytes >>>>>>>> Desc: not available >>>>>>>> URL: < >> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200826/730b3b80/attachment-0002.jpg >>>>>>>> -------------- next part -------------- >>>>>>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >>>>>>>> Name: Rhodes 22 MA CL 08.jpg >>>>>>>> Type: image/jpeg >>>>>>>> Size: 200670 bytes >>>>>>>> Desc: not available >>>>>>>> URL: < >> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200826/730b3b80/attachment-0003.jpg >> From chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com Wed Aug 26 17:57:15 2020 From: chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com (Chris Geankoplis) Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2020 17:57:15 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Fwd: In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Well, the jpg looks like the manual 6:1 motor lift? No text ,so not sure of the actual subject. Do tell. Chris Geankoplis Enosis On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 9:20 AM Cary Tolbert wrote: > ---------- Forwarded message --------- > From: Cary Tolbert > Date: Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 9:00 AM > Subject: > To: Cary Tolbert > > > Re > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: 20200825_174517.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 4175718 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200826/9dbe3c61/attachment.jpg > > > From jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com Wed Aug 26 18:29:50 2020 From: jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com (JeffSmith) Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2020 15:29:50 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Under Seat Storage retaining bars In-Reply-To: <002301d675a6$fc5247c0$f4f6d740$@ebsmed.com> References: <002301d675a6$fc5247c0$f4f6d740$@ebsmed.com> Message-ID: <1598480990396-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Instead of bars, why not just run a low stretch line with clips on each end to pad eyes fore and aft? ----- Jeff Smith 2009 R22 #101 RADIANT Atlantic Highlands Municpal Harbor Atlantic Highlands, NJ -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From retiredtoby at gmail.com Wed Aug 26 18:31:39 2020 From: retiredtoby at gmail.com (Cary Tolbert) Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2020 18:31:39 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] motor broke away In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: By chance, does anyone have a photo of the stop at the end of the rail ? Thanks On Wed, Aug 26, 2020, 5:05 PM Chris Cowie wrote: > Richard: > > We installed electric actuators on the westmarine motor lift for a clean > off the shelf type of solution. Works pretty well and avoids a lot of > fussy custom hardware. > > Christopher P. Cowie > > 4200 Massachusetts Ave NW 119 > Washington DC, 20016 > 202.270.1470 mobile > [ccowie at cowieassociates.com] > > > > Please consider the environment before printing this email. > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of > Richard Stott > Sent: Wednesday, August 26, 2020 10:14 AM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] motor broke away > > Cary > My ?84 GB mount broke on spring launch the year and my Yamaha 8 went in > the drink. > I purchased a motor mount from West marine immediately so I could continue > to use the boat with a spare motor I happened to have on hand. > Its a stinky smoky ?99 Merc 2 stroke, but it always starts and runs when > it need it - well almost always. > I talked it over on the list and discussed with Mike Riter a plan to > convert the GB mount to be equipped with a threaded gear (his sketch) so > that the mont can be moved with a manual crank or an electric motor. > This would be huge advantage over the 6/1 tackle it came equipped with. > I?ve been enjoying the boat too much to stop and refine that design of > Mikes - that?s a winter project. > > In any case the parallelogram type mount works fairly well, it has pros > and cons. > One of the biggest cons is that the moro in the down position is father > aft of the transom and will cavitate and lose thrust in larger waves, > especially with weight on the bow. > I will like the GB system (modified) over the alternative, but the West > marine mount was easy to install and serves the immediate need. > (What I really want is an electric, steerable, remote controlled, 20 hp > sail drive mounted right behind the keel trunk.) It?s doable for > approximately one tone of money. > > One way I use the boat is unusual. > I moore my boat 50 yards off shore. > I use a stand-up paddle board for a tender because it's light and easy to > cary to the shore. > I then use the motor only, with the rudder up, to back the boat on to the > beach to pick up provisions and of course my wife, who is not one to > paddle out to the boat. > Depending on the tide and the slope of the beach, I can sometimes put the > stern right on the beach. > An opening in the stern rail, like the more modern R22s would be a huge > asset for picking up passengers from the beach. (next year) Ric sv > Dadventure stay tuned for ?motor mount mod? updates > > > > Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP > www.stottarchitecture.com > Office 631-283-1777 > Cell 516-965-3164 > > > > > > > On Aug 26, 2020, at 9:19 AM, Cary Tolbert wrote: > > > > Preview attachment 20200825_174517.jpg > > 20200825_174517.jpg > > 4 MB > > < > https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=be1ab8c6c5&attid=0.1&permmsgid=msg-a:r-7374969717110164997&th=1742adb6a4937cb8&view=att&disp=safe&realattid=1742adb12d8c3f23bf81 > >Once > > again HELP. Wed. the 25th I was motoring from my slip out on to the lake > > and kerplunk. The motor raising part of the boat fell off with the motor > > attached and still running. I also had it attached with a s/s chain. > Lucky > > or not.? ? ? Stan no longer makes the parts for an 86. He said he has > long > > moved to newer and hopefully better designs. It seems the starboard > > material used to let the motor slide in the rails failed. My question is > > should I attempt to repair with parts of better materials or buy a > > gerneric system for raising and lowering one's motor . Say something > that > > would fit a Catalina 22? Looking for advice from the centuries of > > experience on the list > > Cary Tolbert S/V Whisper '86 > > Radford, VA > > From chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com Wed Aug 26 20:19:45 2020 From: chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com (Chris Geankoplis) Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2020 20:19:45 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Maine Sailing Anyone? In-Reply-To: <1598469874350-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1596909318869-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1598469874350-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: Wow, Jeff, Great pictures. Wish I was there! Thanks for sharing. Chris Geankoplis Enosis On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 3:24 PM JeffSmith wrote: > Radiant returned from Maine yesterday after 2 weeks on the road and sea. > After stopping at the local trailer place to replace a tail light (but they > both worked yesterday!) We drove for about 9 hours to Rockland and stayed > in > the Harbor View Hotel for a couple of nights to load and prep the boat. > Hotels and restaurants make Emily happy and "Happy wife, etc." Thanks to > research by Peter Nyberg we had a good launch at the Snow Park Ramp - the > best in my limited experience - with a dock all along side. > After a short motor (light wind on the nose) we took a mooring from Lyman > Morse in Camden foe a couple of days to explore the town. A night in the > Hartstone Inn where the beds were way too soft. And then on to the Fox > Island Thoroughfare, where we picked up an open mooring in Perry Creek, > where we stayed for three nights. > Then on to Stonington for a couple of nights on the dock at billings marine > and eventually back "home" to Rockland. > The weather was spectacular! Delightful temps in the day and cool evenings > as opposed to the high temps and humidity back in NJ. Very few bugs and the > few mosquitoes were kept at bay by a THERMACELL device that worked off a > camping gas can. Neither of us had a bite. > The personnel at the marinas were outstanding!!! Friendly and helpful > beyond > belief. Shout Outs to Charles and Celia (who was very interested in the > R22) > at Lyman Morse, Don at Billings and Mark the Harbormaster at Rockland, who > helped us get the boat on the trailer. > So a few lessons learned on our first cruise: > > 1. Bring less stuff! The boat is small (duh) and the constant shifting of > bags to sleep or open the cabin is > a pain. We used half of what we brought. I also brought too many tools, > which took up floor space. > 2 The Sea Eagle 370 is about as small a dinghy that can be stowed under the > seats and is fun - but wet. > It tracks very well, so there is not much reason to need to stow it at > all. Next time we will tow our > small Achilles inflatable. > 3. The Igloo Cooler next to the icebox worked well, needing a couple of > bags > of ice every 2 days - and > kept the food, seltzers and beer cold. > 4. The Magma grill was good for the usual and even heated up locally > bought > pizza. > > Pix are here: > > > https://www.jeffsmithphoto.net/Rhodes-22-Radiant-2020-Penobscot-Bay-Sailing-Vacation/ > > > > ----- > Jeff Smith > 2009 R22 #101 RADIANT > Atlantic Highlands Municpal Harbor > Atlantic Highlands, NJ > > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > From chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com Wed Aug 26 20:22:27 2020 From: chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com (Chris Geankoplis) Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2020 20:22:27 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Annapolis Boat Show Canceled In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Arrgh, and I am going to be in the area for the first time in a couple of years. Darn. Hey how about a virtual boat show? Anybody? Anybody?........ Chris Geankoplis Enosis On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 5:26 PM Michael Corley wrote: > Just read in Waterway Guide that the fall boat shows at Annapolis are > canceled due to the virus. That is gonna hurt. > > > https://www.waterwayguide.com/latest-news/news/10774/annapolis-announces-cancellation-of-fall-sailboat-and-powerboat-shows?utm_source=iContact&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=news_08-26-2020&utm_content=News+08-26-2020 > > Mike Corley > S/V Ranger > Hampton Roads > > e: 4175718 bytes > > > Desc: not available > > URL: < > > > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200826/9dbe3c61/attachment.jpg > > > > > > From stan at generalboats.com Wed Aug 26 22:28:50 2020 From: stan at generalboats.com (stan) Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2020 22:28:50 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Annapolis Boat Show Canceled In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <194b2685-bc52-d5b0-ddae-4b38b7430a4a@generalboats.com> Count me in.? That's my speed these days.? It will give me a year to get ready to wow y'all in 2021.?? If they haven't spent all the money I sent them for this year. On 8/26/20 8:22 PM, Chris Geankoplis wrote: > Arrgh, and I am going to be in the area for the first time in a couple of > years. Darn. Hey how about a virtual boat show? Anybody? Anybody?........ > > Chris Geankoplis > Enosis > > On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 5:26 PM Michael Corley > wrote: > >> Just read in Waterway Guide that the fall boat shows at Annapolis are >> canceled due to the virus. That is gonna hurt. >> >> >> https://www.waterwayguide.com/latest-news/news/10774/annapolis-announces-cancellation-of-fall-sailboat-and-powerboat-shows?utm_source=iContact&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=news_08-26-2020&utm_content=News+08-26-2020 >> >> Mike Corley >> S/V Ranger >> Hampton Roads >> >> e: 4175718 bytes >> >>> Desc: not available >>> URL: < >>> >> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200826/9dbe3c61/attachment.jpg From gstewart8 at cogeco.ca Thu Aug 27 00:05:16 2020 From: gstewart8 at cogeco.ca (Graham Stewart) Date: Thu, 27 Aug 2020 00:05:16 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Strange Electrical Problem In-Reply-To: <01ba01d6777f$dfc0ba30$9f422e90$@ca> References: <1597884691752-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1597934211066-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1597968690145-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <01ba01d6777f$dfc0ba30$9f422e90$@ca> Message-ID: <00a801d67c27$46e72310$d4b56930$@ca> Thanks to all for their help. I think I know what to do to track down my issue. Graham Stewart Agile, Rodes 22, 1976 Kingston Ontario -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Graham Stewart Sent: Friday, August 21, 2020 1:57 AM To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Strange Electrical Problem Might someone explain how a current would show expected voltage (ie, 120 volts) but low current? Why would that occur and how would you test for that? How would you know what the current should be? Thanks, Graham Stewart Agile, Rodes 22, 1976 Kingston Ontario -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Gmorganflier Sent: Thursday, August 20, 2020 8:12 PM To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Strange Electrical Problem Todd, Thanks for that suggestion...I may redo the leads to eliminate them as the source of this problem. George Morgan -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From CKLang at aol.com Thu Aug 27 06:36:24 2020 From: CKLang at aol.com (CKLang at aol.com) Date: Thu, 27 Aug 2020 06:36:24 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Rhodes22-list Digest, Vol 4241, Issue 3 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: We tried the Sea Eagle 370 a couple of years ago and got rid of it immediately afterward. Extremely uncomfortable. (We prefer canoes over kayaks anyway.) We have an old Avon for cruising trips. I agree that towing your Achilles, Jeff, may work out better.Thanks for sharing about your trip. We are taking notes!Cynthia & Carl Lang1990 Rhodes 22Bristol Yacht ClubDelaware RiverSent from my Samsung Galaxy , an AT&T LTE smartphone -------- Original message --------From: rhodes22-list-request at rhodes22.org Date: 8/26/20 5:09 PM (GMT-05:00) To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: Rhodes22-list Digest, Vol 4241, Issue 3 Send Rhodes22-list mailing list submissions to rhodes22-list at rhodes22.orgTo subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-listor, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to rhodes22-list-request at rhodes22.orgYou can reach the person managing the list at rhodes22-list-owner at rhodes22.orgWhen replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specificthan "Re: Contents of Rhodes22-list digest..."Today's Topics:?? 1. Re: Maine Sailing Anyone? (Jesse Shumaker)?? 2. Re: Maine Sailing Anyone? (JeffSmith)?? 3. Re: Trailer question (Peter Nyberg)?? 4. Re: Maine Sailing Anyone? (Peter Nyberg)?? 5. Re: Saildrive (Tom Van Heule)?? 6. Re: Saildrive (Mark West)?? 7. Re: Saildrive (Weiss, Robert L)?? 8. Re: motor broke away (Chris Cowie)?? 9. Re: Saildrive (Chris Cowie)? 10. Re: Saildrive (Tom Van Heule)----------------------------------------------------------------------Message: 1Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2020 14:56:35 -0500From: Jesse Shumaker To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Maine Sailing Anyone?Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"Jeff, thanks for sharing the trip and photos.? It's good to know yourexperience with the Sea Eagle 370.? I'll be using that as a dinghy for thefirst time on a road trip to a bigger lake over Labor Day weekend.? Niceidea for the sunshade for the chart plotter.? I had put some magnets tomount an Android tablet running Open CPN in that location, but thenrealized the glare from the sun is problematic.Jesse ShumakerS/V ZephyrOn Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 2:24 PM JeffSmith wrote:> Radiant returned from Maine yesterday after 2 weeks on the road and sea.> After stopping at the local trailer place to replace a tail light (but they> both worked yesterday!) We drove for about 9 hours to Rockland and stayed> in> the Harbor View Hotel for a couple of nights to load and prep the boat.> Hotels and restaurants make Emily happy and "Happy wife, etc." Thanks to> research by Peter Nyberg we had a good launch at the Snow Park Ramp - the> best in my limited experience - with a dock all along side.> After a short motor (light wind on the nose) we took a mooring from Lyman> Morse in Camden foe a couple of days to explore the town. A night in the> Hartstone Inn where the beds were way too soft. And then on to the Fox> Island Thoroughfare, where we picked up an open mooring in Perry Creek,> where we stayed for three nights.> Then on to Stonington for a couple of nights on the dock at billings marine> and eventually back "home" to Rockland.> The weather was spectacular! Delightful temps in the day and cool evenings> as opposed to the high temps and humidity back in NJ. Very few bugs and the> few mosquitoes were kept at bay by a THERMACELL device that worked off a> camping gas can. Neither of us had a bite.> The personnel at the marinas were outstanding!!! Friendly and helpful> beyond> belief. Shout Outs to Charles and Celia (who was very interested in the> R22)> at? Lyman Morse, Don at Billings and Mark the Harbormaster at Rockland, who> helped us get the boat on the trailer.> So a few lessons learned on our first cruise:>> 1. Bring less stuff! The boat is small (duh) and the constant shifting of> bags to sleep or open the cabin is>??? a pain. We used half of what we brought. I also brought too many tools,> which took up floor space.> 2 The Sea Eagle 370 is about as small a dinghy that can be stowed under the> seats and is fun - but wet.>??? It tracks very well, so there is not much reason to need to stow it at> all.? Next time we will tow our>??? small Achilles inflatable.> 3. The Igloo Cooler next to the icebox worked well, needing a couple of> bags> of ice every 2 days - and>???? kept the food, seltzers and beer cold.> 4.? The Magma grill was good for the usual and even heated up locally> bought> pizza.>> Pix are here:> >> https://www.jeffsmithphoto.net/Rhodes-22-Radiant-2020-Penobscot-Bay-Sailing-Vacation/>>>> -----> Jeff Smith> 2009 R22 #101 RADIANT> Atlantic Highlands Municpal Harbor> Atlantic Highlands, NJ>> --> Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/>------------------------------Message: 2Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2020 13:07:53 -0700 (MST)From: JeffSmith To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.orgSubject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Maine Sailing Anyone?Message-ID: <1598472473040-0.post at n5.nabble.com>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-asciiThanks Jesse,Give me corrugated plastic, Gorilla Tape, pop-rivets and Velcro and I canbuild a 747.? It may not fly, but still...-----Jeff Smith2009 R22 #101 RADIANTAtlantic Highlands Municpal HarborAtlantic Highlands, NJ--Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/------------------------------Message: 3Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2020 16:19:29 -0400From: Peter Nyberg To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer questionMessage-ID: <2A4AF9C5-D8A0-41D6-906E-9F64AB0B28F9 at sunnybeeches.com>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8When I retrieved my boat at the ramp at Snow Marine Park in Rockland, it was dead low tide.? The tidal range in this area is 10 feet or better.? The top of the ramp is pretty steep, but the bottom levels out quite a bit.? When I was down the ramp far enough that the tailpipe of my Toyota Tacoma was blowing bubbles, the front end of the bunks were still about 4? above the surface of the water.? I motored onto the trailer as fast as I dared, but came to a stop about 30? short of where I needed the boat to be on the trailer.? I tried to back the boat off the trailer for another run, but found I was stuck.? My only option was to try to winch the boat forward on the trailer.? I had no idea if this would actually work, but it did.? Actually, since the trailer was close to level, the boat ended up farther forward on the trailer than I think it?s ever been before.? Two lessons from this experience:1) slippery bunks can be a very good thing.2) launching at this ramp at low tide would not be possible.?Peter> On Aug 26, 2020, at 3:55 PM, Mark West via Rhodes22-list wrote:> > my boat settles on its bunks like cradles? and rises up off them when launched? slick stuff on carpet ok if winching it up the rails like some ski boats my thought?? Mark > > > -----Original Message-----> From: JeffSmith > To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> Sent: Wed, Aug 26, 2020 3:38 pm> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer question> > My trailer shop recommended Marykate Liquid Rollers, a slippery spray for the> carpet.? He said his customers swear by it and it seems to work well by me.> > > > -----> Jeff Smith> 2009 R22 #101 RADIANT> Atlantic Highlands Municpal Harbor> Atlantic Highlands, NJ> > --> Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/------------------------------Message: 4Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2020 16:26:36 -0400From: Peter Nyberg To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Maine Sailing Anyone?Message-ID: <443B5AF8-D7C5-440A-9CC2-E4E87628FFF9 at sunnybeeches.com>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8Jeff,Happy to hear that your trip was a success.? Your choice of destinations was quite different from mine, but different strokes?So the same Harbormaster who told you there was absolutely no overnight parking at Snow Park helped you put your boat on the trailer?? I?m still a bit puzzled by this whole parking thing.? But I assume, like me, your parking experience was just fine.I?ll probably be going back for another one week cruise in September.?Peter> On Aug 26, 2020, at 3:24 PM, JeffSmith wrote:> > Radiant returned from Maine yesterday after 2 weeks on the road and sea.> After stopping at the local trailer place to replace a tail light (but they> both worked yesterday!) We drove for about 9 hours to Rockland and stayed in> the Harbor View Hotel for a couple of nights to load and prep the boat. > Hotels and restaurants make Emily happy and "Happy wife, etc." Thanks to> research by Peter Nyberg we had a good launch at the Snow Park Ramp - the> best in my limited experience - with a dock all along side.> After a short motor (light wind on the nose) we took a mooring from Lyman> Morse in Camden foe a couple of days to explore the town. A night in the> Hartstone Inn where the beds were way too soft. And then on to the Fox> Island Thoroughfare, where we picked up an open mooring in Perry Creek,> where we stayed for three nights.> Then on to Stonington for a couple of nights on the dock at billings marine> and eventually back "home" to Rockland.> The weather was spectacular! Delightful temps in the day and cool evenings> as opposed to the high temps and humidity back in NJ. Very few bugs and the> few mosquitoes were kept at bay by a THERMACELL device that worked off a> camping gas can. Neither of us had a bite.> The personnel at the marinas were outstanding!!! Friendly and helpful beyond> belief. Shout Outs to Charles and Celia (who was very interested in the R22)> at? Lyman Morse, Don at Billings and Mark the Harbormaster at Rockland, who> helped us get the boat on the trailer.> So a few lessons learned on our first cruise:> > 1. Bring less stuff! The boat is small (duh) and the constant shifting of> bags to sleep or open the cabin is >?? a pain. We used half of what we brought. I also brought too many tools,> which took up floor space.> 2 The Sea Eagle 370 is about as small a dinghy that can be stowed under the> seats and is fun - but wet.? >?? It tracks very well, so there is not much reason to need to stow it at> all.? Next time we will tow our >?? small Achilles inflatable.? > 3. The Igloo Cooler next to the icebox worked well, needing a couple of bags> of ice every 2 days - and >??? kept the food, seltzers and beer cold.> 4.? The Magma grill was good for the usual and even heated up locally bought> pizza.> > Pix are here:>> https://www.jeffsmithphoto.net/Rhodes-22-Radiant-2020-Penobscot-Bay-Sailing-Vacation/ > > > > -----> Jeff Smith> 2009 R22 #101 RADIANT> Atlantic Highlands Municpal Harbor> Atlantic Highlands, NJ> > --> Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/------------------------------Message: 5Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2020 15:33:25 -0500From: Tom Van Heule To: Scott Andrews ,? The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] SaildriveMessage-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"Stan had mentioned to me he had an idea where it would even retract, basedon some torqueedo parts.On Wed, Aug 26, 2020, 2:17 PM Scott Andrews via Rhodes22-list wrote:> Electric sail drive would be the ultimate.>> Sent from my iPhone>> > On Aug 26, 2020, at 12:06 PM, Jesse Shumaker <> jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com> wrote:> >> > ?Mark, it sounds like your R22 has even more bells and whistles than> most!> > I'm curious about your self tending jib.? I've only seen that feature on> > larger boats such as Island Packets.? Have you found the self tending jib> > to work well?> >> > Jesse Shumaker> > S/V Zephyr> >> >> On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 10:42 AM Mark Whipple > >> wrote:> >>> >> FWIW, I'm pretty sure the drive is at about the same depth as the keel.> >> I'll try to take a picture from the side later today. Also the rudder> >> redirects some of the prop wash since the prop is in front. I haven't> >> had it in the water yet this year (soon!) but I recall the feeling of> the> >> prop wash on the wheel was a little weird. Yes, my boat has a wheel and> a> >> self-tending jib, too. Not sure if it will get up on a plane. We'll see.> >>> >> Mark> >>> >> On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 11:31 AM Ric Stott > >> wrote:> >>> >>> Cory - that?s a really interesting install.> >>> Is 15 HP enough to get on a plane?> >>> It would not work for my needs - it?s too deep.> >>> I would need the prop to be no deeper than the bottom of the keel, and> I> >>> would mount it in the middle of the cockpit floor, about a foot aft of> >> the> >>> end of the keel,? understanding that the motor head (probably electric> >> and> >>> smaller than the Yamaha head) would require a low cover above the> cockpit> >>> floor.> >>> I would also like it to be a steerable sail drive with a remote.> >>> Not sure that such a thing is even available.> >>> Thanks> >>>> >>> Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP> >>> www.stottarchitecture.com> >>> Office? 631-283-1777> >>> Cell??????????? 516-965-3164> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> On Aug 26, 2020, at 11:18 AM, Mark Whipple > >>> wrote:> >>>>> >>>> Ric,> >>>>> >>>> Here's a few pictures I dug up. I'm currently hunting for a source for> >>> the> >>>> zincs.> >>>>> >>>> Mark> >>>> [image: Rhodes 22 MA CL 03.jpg]> >>>> [image: Rhodes 22 MA CL 04.jpg]> >>>> [image: Rhodes 22 MA CL 08.jpg]> >>>>> >>>>> >>>> [image: 20200824_165705.jpg]> >>>>> >>>> On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 10:53 AM Richard Stott <> >>> ric at stottarchitecture.com>> >>>> wrote:> >>>>> >>>>> Mark> >>>>> 15 HP is a lot of motor.> >>>>> Can you show us a pic of where its mounted?> >>>>> Any pics of it under the boat?> >>>>> Can you share performance and maneuverability with us?> >>>>> I?m dying to know more about this.> >>>>> A steerable unit is my fantasy but a fixed one might work.> >>>>> Ric> >>>>> sv Dadventure> >>>>> HBNY> >>>>>> >>>>> Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP> >>>>> www.stottarchitecture.com> >>>>> Office? 631-283-1777> >>>>> Cell??????????? 516-965-3164> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> On Aug 26, 2020, at 10:43 AM, Mark Whipple > >>>>> wrote:> >>>>>>> >>>>>> Hi Richard,> >>>>>>> >>>>>> I purchased my 2000 R22 last year and it came with a 15hp Yamaha> >>>>> saildrive.> >>>>>> I haven't had a chance to use the boat much yet, but it seems like> it> >>>>> will> >>>>>> address many of the issues with an outboard on the transom> >>>>>> (raising/lowering, keeping the drive underwater).> >>>>>>> >>>>>> Unfortunately the company that made this saildrive is essentially> out> >>> of> >>>>>> business. I am concerned about what I'll have to do once this> >> saildrive> >>>>>> needs a part I can't get or needs a costly repair. I'm not sure I> >> like> >>>>> the> >>>>>> alternative solutions that involve a motor on the transom. Maybe I> >> need> >>>>> to> >>>>>> start saving my pennies toward a replacement. Regarding that option,> >>> the> >>>>>> saildrives I've seen tend to have larger engine than mine - often a> >>>>> diesel.> >>>>>> Mine is essentially a Yamaha (made by Parsun) outboard head so it's> >> not> >>>>>> very tall. Maybe I'll be lucky and not have to solve the replacement> >>>>>> problem.> >>>>>>> >>>>>> Mark> >>>>>>> >>>>>> --> >>>>>> Boston, MA> >>>>>>> >>>>>> 2000 R22 *Luna Mia*> >>>>>> 1987 Nimble 30 *For Sale*> >>>>>> 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale*> >>>>>>> >>>>>> On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 10:14 AM Richard Stott <> >>>>> ric at stottarchitecture.com>> >>>>>> wrote:> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Cary> >>>>>>> My ?84 GB mount broke on spring launch the year and my Yamaha 8> went> >>> in> >>>>>>> the drink.> >>>>>>> I purchased a motor mount from West marine immediately so I could> >>>>> continue> >>>>>>> to use the boat with a spare motor I happened to have on hand.> >>>>>>> Its a stinky smoky ?99 Merc 2 stroke, but it always starts and runs> >>> when> >>>>>>> it need it - well almost always.> >>>>>>> I talked it over on the list and discussed with Mike Riter a plan> to> >>>>>>> convert the GB mount to be equipped with a threaded gear (his> >> sketch)> >>> so> >>>>>>> that the mont can be moved with a manual crank or an electric> motor.> >>>>>>> This would be huge advantage over the 6/1 tackle it came equipped> >>> with.> >>>>>>> I?ve been enjoying the boat too much to stop and refine that design> >> of> >>>>>>> Mikes - that?s a winter project.> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>> In any case the parallelogram type mount works fairly well, it has> >>> pros> >>>>>>> and cons.> >>>>>>> One of the biggest cons is that the moro in the down position is> >>> father> >>>>>>> aft of the transom and will cavitate and lose thrust in larger> >> waves,> >>>>>>> especially with weight on the bow.> >>>>>>> I will like the GB system (modified) over the alternative, but the> >>> West> >>>>>>> marine mount was easy to install and serves the immediate need.> >>>>>>> (What I really want is an electric,? steerable, remote controlled,> >> 20> >>> hp> >>>>>>> sail drive mounted right behind the keel trunk.)> >>>>>>> It?s doable for approximately one tone of money.> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>> One way I use the boat is unusual.> >>>>>>> I moore my boat 50 yards off shore.> >>>>>>> I use a stand-up paddle board for a tender because it's light and> >> easy> >>>>> to> >>>>>>> cary to the shore.> >>>>>>> I then use the motor only, with the rudder up, to back the boat on> >> to> >>>>> the> >>>>>>> beach to pick up? provisions and of course my wife, who is not one> >> to> >>>>>>> paddle out to the boat.> >>>>>>> Depending on the tide and the slope of the beach, I can sometimes> >> put> >>>>> the> >>>>>>> stern right on the beach.> >>>>>>> An opening in the stern rail, like the more modern R22s would be a> >>> huge> >>>>>>> asset for picking up passengers from the beach. (next year)> >>>>>>> Ric> >>>>>>> sv Dadventure> >>>>>>> stay tuned for ?motor mount mod? updates> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>> Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP> >>>>>>> www.stottarchitecture.com > >>>>>>> Office? 631-283-1777> >>>>>>> Cell??????????? 516-965-3164> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> On Aug 26, 2020, at 9:19 AM, Cary Tolbert > >>>>> wrote:> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Preview attachment 20200825_174517.jpg> >>>>>>>> 20200825_174517.jpg> >>>>>>>> 4 MB> >>>>>>>> <> >>>>>>>> >>>>>> >>>> >>> https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=be1ab8c6c5&attid=0.1&permmsgid=msg-a:r-7374969717110164997&th=1742adb6a4937cb8&view=att&disp=safe&realattid=1742adb12d8c3f23bf81> >>>>>>>> Once> >>>>>>>> again HELP. Wed. the 25th I was motoring from my slip out on to> the> >>>>> lake> >>>>>>>> and kerplunk. The motor raising part of the boat fell off with the> >>>>> motor> >>>>>>>> attached and still running. I also had it attached with a s/s> >> chain.> >>>>>>> Lucky> >>>>>>>> or not.? ? ? Stan no longer makes the parts for an 86. He said he> >> has> >>>>>>> long> >>>>>>>> moved to newer and hopefully better designs. It seems the> starboard> >>>>>>>> material used to let the motor slide in the rails failed. My> >> question> >>>>> is> >>>>>>>> should I attempt to repair with parts of better materials or buy a> >>>>>>>> gerneric? system for raising and lowering one's motor . Say> >> something> >>>>>>> that> >>>>>>>> would fit a Catalina 22? Looking for advice from the centuries of> >>>>>>>> experience on the list> >>>>>>>> Cary Tolbert S/V Whisper '86> >>>>>>>> Radford, VA> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>> --> >>>>>> Boston, MA> >>>>>>> >>>>>> 2000 R22 *Luna Mia*> >>>>>> 1986 Nimble 30 *For Sale*> >>>>>> 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale*> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>> -------------- next part --------------> >>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...> >>>> Name: 20200824_165705.jpg> >>>> Type: image/jpeg> >>>> Size: 652767 bytes> >>>> Desc: not available> >>>> URL: <> >>>> >>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200826/730b3b80/attachment.jpg> >>>>> >>>> -------------- next part --------------> >>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...> >>>> Name: Rhodes 22 MA CL 03.jpg> >>>> Type: image/jpeg> >>>> Size: 61722 bytes> >>>> Desc: not available> >>>> URL: <> >>>> >>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200826/730b3b80/attachment-0001.jpg> >>>>> >>>> -------------- next part --------------> >>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...> >>>> Name: Rhodes 22 MA CL 04.jpg> >>>> Type: image/jpeg> >>>> Size: 79585 bytes> >>>> Desc: not available> >>>> URL: <> >>>> >>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200826/730b3b80/attachment-0002.jpg> >>>>> >>>> -------------- next part --------------> >>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...> >>>> Name: Rhodes 22 MA CL 08.jpg> >>>> Type: image/jpeg> >>>> Size: 200670 bytes> >>>> Desc: not available> >>>> URL: <> >>>> >>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200826/730b3b80/attachment-0003.jpg> >>>>> >>>> >>>> >>>>------------------------------Message: 6Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2020 20:48:08 +0000 (UTC)From: Mark West To: "rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org" Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] SaildriveMessage-ID: <2132503877.5941900.1598474888368 at mail.yahoo.com>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8Believe that sailboat 2 maby 3 years ago was in the Annapolis boat show . think sold to some one on west cost Seattle? Stan did design and build one with Torpedo's equipment mounted inside lazaret? ? Mark-----Original Message-----From: Tom Van Heule To: Scott Andrews ; The Rhodes 22 Email List Sent: Wed, Aug 26, 2020 4:33 pmSubject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] SaildriveStan had mentioned to me he had an idea where it would even retract, basedon some torqueedo parts.On Wed, Aug 26, 2020, 2:17 PM Scott Andrews via Rhodes22-list wrote:> Electric sail drive would be the ultimate.>> Sent from my iPhone>> > On Aug 26, 2020, at 12:06 PM, Jesse Shumaker <> jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com> wrote:> >> > ?Mark, it sounds like your R22 has even more bells and whistles than> most!> > I'm curious about your self tending jib.? I've only seen that feature on> > larger boats such as Island Packets.? Have you found the self tending jib> > to work well?> >> > Jesse Shumaker> > S/V Zephyr> >> >> On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 10:42 AM Mark Whipple > >> wrote:> >>> >> FWIW, I'm pretty sure the drive is at about the same depth as the keel.> >> I'll try to take a picture from the side later today. Also the rudder> >> redirects some of the prop wash since the prop is in front. I haven't> >> had it in the water yet this year (soon!) but I recall the feeling of> the> >> prop wash on the wheel was a little weird. Yes, my boat has a wheel and> a> >> self-tending jib, too. Not sure if it will get up on a plane. We'll see.> >>> >> Mark> >>> >> On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 11:31 AM Ric Stott > >> wrote:> >>> >>> Cory - that?s a really interesting install.> >>> Is 15 HP enough to get on a plane?> >>> It would not work for my needs - it?s too deep.> >>> I would need the prop to be no deeper than the bottom of the keel, and> I> >>> would mount it in the middle of the cockpit floor, about a foot aft of> >> the> >>> end of the keel,? understanding that the motor head (probably electric> >> and> >>> smaller than the Yamaha head) would require a low cover above the> cockpit> >>> floor.> >>> I would also like it to be a steerable sail drive with a remote.> >>> Not sure that such a thing is even available.> >>> Thanks> >>>> >>> Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP> >>> www.stottarchitecture.com> >>> Office? 631-283-1777> >>> Cell? ? ? ? ? ? 516-965-3164> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> On Aug 26, 2020, at 11:18 AM, Mark Whipple > >>> wrote:> >>>>> >>>> Ric,> >>>>> >>>> Here's a few pictures I dug up. I'm currently hunting for a source for> >>> the> >>>> zincs.> >>>>> >>>> Mark> >>>> [image: Rhodes 22 MA CL 03.jpg]> >>>> [image: Rhodes 22 MA CL 04.jpg]> >>>> [image: Rhodes 22 MA CL 08.jpg]> >>>>> >>>>> >>>> [image: 20200824_165705.jpg]> >>>>> >>>> On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 10:53 AM Richard Stott <> >>> ric at stottarchitecture.com>> >>>> wrote:> >>>>> >>>>> Mark> >>>>> 15 HP is a lot of motor.> >>>>> Can you show us a pic of where its mounted?> >>>>> Any pics of it under the boat?> >>>>> Can you share performance and maneuverability with us?> >>>>> I?m dying to know more about this.> >>>>> A steerable unit is my fantasy but a fixed one might work.> >>>>> Ric> >>>>> sv Dadventure> >>>>> HBNY> >>>>>> >>>>> Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP> >>>>> www.stottarchitecture.com> >>>>> Office? 631-283-1777> >>>>> Cell? ? ? ? ? ? 516-965-3164> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> On Aug 26, 2020, at 10:43 AM, Mark Whipple > >>>>> wrote:> >>>>>>> >>>>>> Hi Richard,> >>>>>>> >>>>>> I purchased my 2000 R22 last year and it came with a 15hp Yamaha> >>>>> saildrive.> >>>>>> I haven't had a chance to use the boat much yet, but it seems like> it> >>>>> will> >>>>>> address many of the issues with an outboard on the transom> >>>>>> (raising/lowering, keeping the drive underwater).> >>>>>>> >>>>>> Unfortunately the company that made this saildrive is essentially> out> >>> of> >>>>>> business. I am concerned about what I'll have to do once this> >> saildrive> >>>>>> needs a part I can't get or needs a costly repair. I'm not sure I> >> like> >>>>> the> >>>>>> alternative solutions that involve a motor on the transom. Maybe I> >> need> >>>>> to> >>>>>> start saving my pennies toward a replacement. Regarding that option,> >>> the> >>>>>> saildrives I've seen tend to have larger engine than mine - often a> >>>>> diesel.> >>>>>> Mine is essentially a Yamaha (made by Parsun) outboard head so it's> >> not> >>>>>> very tall. Maybe I'll be lucky and not have to solve the replacement> >>>>>> problem.> >>>>>>> >>>>>> Mark> >>>>>>> >>>>>> --> >>>>>> Boston, MA> >>>>>>> >>>>>> 2000 R22 *Luna Mia*> >>>>>> 1987 Nimble 30 *For Sale*> >>>>>> 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale*> >>>>>>> >>>>>> On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 10:14 AM Richard Stott <> >>>>> ric at stottarchitecture.com>> >>>>>> wrote:> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Cary> >>>>>>> My ?84 GB mount broke on spring launch the year and my Yamaha 8> went> >>> in> >>>>>>> the drink.> >>>>>>> I purchased a motor mount from West marine immediately so I could> >>>>> continue> >>>>>>> to use the boat with a spare motor I happened to have on hand.> >>>>>>> Its a stinky smoky ?99 Merc 2 stroke, but it always starts and runs> >>> when> >>>>>>> it need it - well almost always.> >>>>>>> I talked it over on the list and discussed with Mike Riter a plan> to> >>>>>>> convert the GB mount to be equipped with a threaded gear (his> >> sketch)> >>> so> >>>>>>> that the mont can be moved with a manual crank or an electric> motor.> >>>>>>> This would be huge advantage over the 6/1 tackle it came equipped> >>> with.> >>>>>>> I?ve been enjoying the boat too much to stop and refine that design> >> of> >>>>>>> Mikes - that?s a winter project.> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>> In any case the parallelogram type mount works fairly well, it has> >>> pros> >>>>>>> and cons.> >>>>>>> One of the biggest cons is that the moro in the down position is> >>> father> >>>>>>> aft of the transom and will cavitate and lose thrust in larger> >> waves,> >>>>>>> especially with weight on the bow.> >>>>>>> I will like the GB system (modified) over the alternative, but the> >>> West> >>>>>>> marine mount was easy to install and serves the immediate need.> >>>>>>> (What I really want is an electric,? steerable, remote controlled,> >> 20> >>> hp> >>>>>>> sail drive mounted right behind the keel trunk.)> >>>>>>> It?s doable for approximately one tone of money.> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>> One way I use the boat is unusual.> >>>>>>> I moore my boat 50 yards off shore.> >>>>>>> I use a stand-up paddle board for a tender because it's light and> >> easy> >>>>> to> >>>>>>> cary to the shore.> >>>>>>> I then use the motor only, with the rudder up, to back the boat on> >> to> >>>>> the> >>>>>>> beach to pick up? provisions and of course my wife, who is not one> >> to> >>>>>>> paddle out to the boat.> >>>>>>> Depending on the tide and the slope of the beach, I can sometimes> >> put> >>>>> the> >>>>>>> stern right on the beach.> >>>>>>> An opening in the stern rail, like the more modern R22s would be a> >>> huge> >>>>>>> asset for picking up passengers from the beach. (next year)> >>>>>>> Ric> >>>>>>> sv Dadventure> >>>>>>> stay tuned for ?motor mount mod? updates> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>> Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP> >>>>>>> www.stottarchitecture.com > >>>>>>> Office? 631-283-1777> >>>>>>> Cell? ? ? ? ? ? 516-965-3164> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> On Aug 26, 2020, at 9:19 AM, Cary Tolbert > >>>>> wrote:> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Preview attachment 20200825_174517.jpg> >>>>>>>> 20200825_174517.jpg> >>>>>>>> 4 MB> >>>>>>>> <> >>>>>>>> >>>>>> >>>> >>> https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=be1ab8c6c5&attid=0.1&permmsgid=msg-a:r-7374969717110164997&th=1742adb6a4937cb8&view=att&disp=safe&realattid=1742adb12d8c3f23bf81> >>>>>>>> Once> >>>>>>>> again HELP. Wed. the 25th I was motoring from my slip out on to> the> >>>>> lake> >>>>>>>> and kerplunk. The motor raising part of the boat fell off with the> >>>>> motor> >>>>>>>> attached and still running. I also had it attached with a s/s> >> chain.> >>>>>>> Lucky> >>>>>>>> or not.? ? ? Stan no longer makes the parts for an 86. He said he> >> has> >>>>>>> long> >>>>>>>> moved to newer and hopefully better designs. It seems the> starboard> >>>>>>>> material used to let the motor slide in the rails failed. My> >> question> >>>>> is> >>>>>>>> should I attempt to repair with parts of better materials or buy a> >>>>>>>> gerneric? system for raising and lowering one's motor . Say> >> something> >>>>>>> that> >>>>>>>> would fit a Catalina 22? Looking for advice from the centuries of> >>>>>>>> experience on the list> >>>>>>>> Cary Tolbert S/V Whisper '86> >>>>>>>> Radford, VA> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>> --> >>>>>> Boston, MA> >>>>>>> >>>>>> 2000 R22 *Luna Mia*> >>>>>> 1986 Nimble 30 *For Sale*> >>>>>> 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale*> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>> -------------- next part --------------> >>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...> >>>> Name: 20200824_165705.jpg> >>>> Type: image/jpeg> >>>> Size: 652767 bytes> >>>> Desc: not available> >>>> URL: <> >>>> >>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200826/730b3b80/attachment.jpg> >>>>> >>>> -------------- next part --------------> >>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...> >>>> Name: Rhodes 22 MA CL 03.jpg> >>>> Type: image/jpeg> >>>> Size: 61722 bytes> >>>> Desc: not available> >>>> URL: <> >>>> >>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200826/730b3b80/attachment-0001.jpg> >>>>> >>>> -------------- next part --------------> >>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...> >>>> Name: Rhodes 22 MA CL 04.jpg> >>>> Type: image/jpeg> >>>> Size: 79585 bytes> >>>> Desc: not available> >>>> URL: <> >>>> >>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200826/730b3b80/attachment-0002.jpg> >>>>> >>>> -------------- next part --------------> >>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...> >>>> Name: Rhodes 22 MA CL 08.jpg> >>>> Type: image/jpeg> >>>> Size: 200670 bytes> >>>> Desc: not available> >>>> URL: <> >>>> >>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200826/730b3b80/attachment-0003.jpg> >>>>> >>>> >>>> >>>>------------------------------Message: 7Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2020 20:59:50 +0000From: "Weiss, Robert L" To: Mark West , The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] SaildriveMessage-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"Three years ago I went out and did some volunteer work for Stan and also helped out at the boat show. I worked on that boat with the electric motor in the lazarette. He built a well in the lazarette and the motor was on a lift system that pulled it up into the well when not used so less drag. It was to be connected wirelessly to a throttle mounted on the gunnel.BobRobert L Weiss Jr.Director of MusicFirst United Methodist Carbondale, ILProfessor Emeritus, SIUC________________________________From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of Mark West via Rhodes22-list Sent: Wednesday, August 26, 2020 3:48 PMTo: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Saildrive[EXTERNAL EMAIL ALERT]: Verify sender before opening links or attachments.Believe that sailboat 2 maby 3 years ago was in the Annapolis boat show . think sold to some one on west cost Seattle? Stan did design and build one with Torpedo's equipment mounted inside lazaret??? Mark-----Original Message-----From: Tom Van Heule To: Scott Andrews ; The Rhodes 22 Email List Sent: Wed, Aug 26, 2020 4:33 pmSubject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] SaildriveStan had mentioned to me he had an idea where it would even retract, basedon some torqueedo parts.On Wed, Aug 26, 2020, 2:17 PM Scott Andrews via Rhodes22-list wrote:> Electric sail drive would be the ultimate.>> Sent from my iPhone>> > On Aug 26, 2020, at 12:06 PM, Jesse Shumaker <> jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com> wrote:> >> > ?Mark, it sounds like your R22 has even more bells and whistles than> most!> > I'm curious about your self tending jib.? I've only seen that feature on> > larger boats such as Island Packets.? Have you found the self tending jib> > to work well?> >> > Jesse Shumaker> > S/V Zephyr> >> >> On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 10:42 AM Mark Whipple > >> wrote:> >>> >> FWIW, I'm pretty sure the drive is at about the same depth as the keel.> >> I'll try to take a picture from the side later today. Also the rudder> >> redirects some of the prop wash since the prop is in front. I haven't> >> had it in the water yet this year (soon!) but I recall the feeling of> the> >> prop wash on the wheel was a little weird. Yes, my boat has a wheel and> a> >> self-tending jib, too. Not sure if it will get up on a plane. We'll see.> >>> >> Mark> >>> >> On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 11:31 AM Ric Stott > >> wrote:> >>> >>> Cory - that?s a really interesting install.> >>> Is 15 HP enough to get on a plane?> >>> It would not work for my needs - it?s too deep.> >>> I would need the prop to be no deeper than the bottom of the keel, and> I> >>> would mount it in the middle of the cockpit floor, about a foot aft of> >> the> >>> end of the keel,? understanding that the motor head (probably electric> >> and> >>> smaller than the Yamaha head) would require a low cover above the> cockpit> >>> floor.> >>> I would also like it to be a steerable sail drive with a remote.> >>> Not sure that such a thing is even available.> >>> Thanks> >>>> >>> Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP> >>> https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://www.stottarchitecture.com__;!!DAxFFaumoJbh!PlQA_WtyYkzS4GNoAcAUUzzOP244-mDGavysZjDcyuTVO4TkE54763WQgVV9UQ$> >>> Office? 631-283-1777> >>> Cell??????????? 516-965-3164> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> On Aug 26, 2020, at 11:18 AM, Mark Whipple > >>> wrote:> >>>>> >>>> Ric,> >>>>> >>>> Here's a few pictures I dug up. I'm currently hunting for a source for> >>> the> >>>> zincs.> >>>>> >>>> Mark> >>>> [image: Rhodes 22 MA CL 03.jpg]> >>>> [image: Rhodes 22 MA CL 04.jpg]> >>>> [image: Rhodes 22 MA CL 08.jpg]> >>>>> >>>>> >>>> [image: 20200824_165705.jpg]> >>>>> >>>> On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 10:53 AM Richard Stott <> >>> ric at stottarchitecture.com>> >>>> wrote:> >>>>> >>>>> Mark> >>>>> 15 HP is a lot of motor.> >>>>> Can you show us a pic of where its mounted?> >>>>> Any pics of it under the boat?> >>>>> Can you share performance and maneuverability with us?> >>>>> I?m dying to know more about this.> >>>>> A steerable unit is my fantasy but a fixed one might work.> >>>>> Ric> >>>>> sv Dadventure> >>>>> HBNY> >>>>>> >>>>> Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP> >>>>> https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://www.stottarchitecture.com__;!!DAxFFaumoJbh!PlQA_WtyYkzS4GNoAcAUUzzOP244-mDGavysZjDcyuTVO4TkE54763WQgVV9UQ$> >>>>> Office? 631-283-1777> >>>>> Cell??????????? 516-965-3164> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> On Aug 26, 2020, at 10:43 AM, Mark Whipple > >>>>> wrote:> >>>>>>> >>>>>> Hi Richard,> >>>>>>> >>>>>> I purchased my 2000 R22 last year and it came with a 15hp Yamaha> >>>>> saildrive.> >>>>>> I haven't had a chance to use the boat much yet, but it seems like> it> >>>>> will> >>>>>> address many of the issues with an outboard on the transom> >>>>>> (raising/lowering, keeping the drive underwater).> >>>>>>> >>>>>> Unfortunately the company that made this saildrive is essentially> out> >>> of> >>>>>> business. I am concerned about what I'll have to do once this> >> saildrive> >>>>>> needs a part I can't get or needs a costly repair. I'm not sure I> >> like> >>>>> the> >>>>>> alternative solutions that involve a motor on the transom. Maybe I> >> need> >>>>> to> >>>>>> start saving my pennies toward a replacement. Regarding that option,> >>> the> >>>>>> saildrives I've seen tend to have larger engine than mine - often a> >>>>> diesel.> >>>>>> Mine is essentially a Yamaha (made by Parsun) outboard head so it's> >> not> >>>>>> very tall. Maybe I'll be lucky and not have to solve the replacement> >>>>>> problem.> >>>>>>> >>>>>> Mark> >>>>>>> >>>>>> --> >>>>>> Boston, MA> >>>>>>> >>>>>> 2000 R22 *Luna Mia*> >>>>>> 1987 Nimble 30 *For Sale*> >>>>>> 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale*> >>>>>>> >>>>>> On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 10:14 AM Richard Stott <> >>>>> ric at stottarchitecture.com>> >>>>>> wrote:> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Cary> >>>>>>> My ?84 GB mount broke on spring launch the year and my Yamaha 8> went> >>> in> >>>>>>> the drink.> >>>>>>> I purchased a motor mount from West marine immediately so I could> >>>>> continue> >>>>>>> to use the boat with a spare motor I happened to have on hand.> >>>>>>> Its a stinky smoky ?99 Merc 2 stroke, but it always starts and runs> >>> when> >>>>>>> it need it - well almost always.> >>>>>>> I talked it over on the list and discussed with Mike Riter a plan> to> >>>>>>> convert the GB mount to be equipped with a threaded gear (his> >> sketch)> >>> so> >>>>>>> that the mont can be moved with a manual crank or an electric> motor.> >>>>>>> This would be huge advantage over the 6/1 tackle it came equipped> >>> with.> >>>>>>> I?ve been enjoying the boat too much to stop and refine that design> >> of> >>>>>>> Mikes - that?s a winter project.> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>> In any case the parallelogram type mount works fairly well, it has> >>> pros> >>>>>>> and cons.> >>>>>>> One of the biggest cons is that the moro in the down position is> >>> father> >>>>>>> aft of the transom and will cavitate and lose thrust in larger> >> waves,> >>>>>>> especially with weight on the bow.> >>>>>>> I will like the GB system (modified) over the alternative, but the> >>> West> >>>>>>> marine mount was easy to install and serves the immediate need.> >>>>>>> (What I really want is an electric,? steerable, remote controlled,> >> 20> >>> hp> >>>>>>> sail drive mounted right behind the keel trunk.)> >>>>>>> It?s doable for approximately one tone of money.> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>> One way I use the boat is unusual.> >>>>>>> I moore my boat 50 yards off shore.> >>>>>>> I use a stand-up paddle board for a tender because it's light and> >> easy> >>>>> to> >>>>>>> cary to the shore.> >>>>>>> I then use the motor only, with the rudder up, to back the boat on> >> to> >>>>> the> >>>>>>> beach to pick up? provisions and of course my wife, who is not one> >> to> >>>>>>> paddle out to the boat.> >>>>>>> Depending on the tide and the slope of the beach, I can sometimes> >> put> >>>>> the> >>>>>>> stern right on the beach.> >>>>>>> An opening in the stern rail, like the more modern R22s would be a> >>> huge> >>>>>>> asset for picking up passengers from the beach. (next year)> >>>>>>> Ric> >>>>>>> sv Dadventure> >>>>>>> stay tuned for ?motor mount mod? updates> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>> Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP> >>>>>>> https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://www.stottarchitecture.com__;!!DAxFFaumoJbh!PlQA_WtyYkzS4GNoAcAUUzzOP244-mDGavysZjDcyuTVO4TkE54763WQgVV9UQ$? > >>>>>>> Office? 631-283-1777> >>>>>>> Cell??????????? 516-965-3164> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> On Aug 26, 2020, at 9:19 AM, Cary Tolbert > >>>>> wrote:> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Preview attachment 20200825_174517.jpg> >>>>>>>> 20200825_174517.jpg> >>>>>>>> 4 MB> >>>>>>>> <> >>>>>>>> >>>>>> >>>> >>> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=be1ab8c6c5&attid=0.1&permmsgid=msg-a:r-7374969717110164997&th=1742adb6a4937cb8&view=att&disp=safe&realattid=1742adb12d8c3f23bf81__;!!DAxFFaumoJbh!PlQA_WtyYkzS4GNoAcAUUzzOP244-mDGavysZjDcyuTVO4TkE54763UrqbKnIw$> >>>>>>>> Once> >>>>>>>> again HELP. Wed. the 25th I was motoring from my slip out on to> the> >>>>> lake> >>>>>>>> and kerplunk. The motor raising part of the boat fell off with the> >>>>> motor> >>>>>>>> attached and still running. I also had it attached with a s/s> >> chain.> >>>>>>> Lucky> >>>>>>>> or not.? ? ? Stan no longer makes the parts for an 86. He said he> >> has> >>>>>>> long> >>>>>>>> moved to newer and hopefully better designs. It seems the> starboard> >>>>>>>> material used to let the motor slide in the rails failed. My> >> question> >>>>> is> >>>>>>>> should I attempt to repair with parts of better materials or buy a> >>>>>>>> gerneric? system for raising and lowering one's motor . Say> >> something> >>>>>>> that> >>>>>>>> would fit a Catalina 22? Looking for advice from the centuries of> >>>>>>>> experience on the list> >>>>>>>> Cary Tolbert S/V Whisper '86> >>>>>>>> Radford, VA> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>> --> >>>>>> Boston, MA> >>>>>>> >>>>>> 2000 R22 *Luna Mia*> >>>>>> 1986 Nimble 30 *For Sale*> >>>>>> 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale*> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>> -------------- next part --------------> >>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...> >>>> Name: 20200824_165705.jpg> >>>> Type: image/jpeg> >>>> Size: 652767 bytes> >>>> Desc: not available> >>>> URL: <> >>>> >>> https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200826/730b3b80/attachment.jpg__;!!DAxFFaumoJbh!PlQA_WtyYkzS4GNoAcAUUzzOP244-mDGavysZjDcyuTVO4TkE54763XjNYun2Q$> >>>>> >>>> -------------- next part --------------> >>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...> >>>> Name: Rhodes 22 MA CL 03.jpg> >>>> Type: image/jpeg> >>>> Size: 61722 bytes> >>>> Desc: not available> >>>> URL: <> >>>> >>> https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200826/730b3b80/attachment-0001.jpg__;!!DAxFFaumoJbh!PlQA_WtyYkzS4GNoAcAUUzzOP244-mDGavysZjDcyuTVO4TkE54763XDKlETPg$> >>>>> >>>> -------------- next part --------------> >>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...> >>>> Name: Rhodes 22 MA CL 04.jpg> >>>> Type: image/jpeg> >>>> Size: 79585 bytes> >>>> Desc: not available> >>>> URL: <> >>>> >>> https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200826/730b3b80/attachment-0002.jpg__;!!DAxFFaumoJbh!PlQA_WtyYkzS4GNoAcAUUzzOP244-mDGavysZjDcyuTVO4TkE54763XB6rYtFw$> >>>>> >>>> -------------- next part --------------> >>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...> >>>> Name: Rhodes 22 MA CL 08.jpg> >>>> Type: image/jpeg> >>>> Size: 200670 bytes> >>>> Desc: not available> >>>> URL: <> >>>> >>> https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200826/730b3b80/attachment-0003.jpg__;!!DAxFFaumoJbh!PlQA_WtyYkzS4GNoAcAUUzzOP244-mDGavysZjDcyuTVO4TkE54763UQRjoChQ$> >>>>> >>>> >>>> >>>>------------------------------Message: 8Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2020 21:05:47 +0000From: Chris Cowie To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] motor broke awayMessage-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"Richard:We installed electric actuators on the westmarine motor lift for a clean off the shelf type of solution.? Works pretty well and avoids a lot of fussy custom hardware.Christopher P. Cowie? ??4200 Massachusetts Ave NW 119Washington DC, 20016202.270.1470 mobile[ccowie at cowieassociates.com]Please consider the environment before printing this email.-----Original Message-----From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of Richard StottSent: Wednesday, August 26, 2020 10:14 AMTo: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] motor broke awayCaryMy ?84 GB mount broke on spring launch the year and my Yamaha 8 went in the drink. I purchased a motor mount from West marine immediately so I could continue to use the boat with a spare motor I happened to have on hand. Its a stinky smoky ?99 Merc 2 stroke, but it always starts and runs when it need it - well almost always. I talked it over on the list and discussed with Mike Riter a plan to convert the GB mount to be equipped with a threaded gear (his sketch) so that the mont can be moved with a manual crank or an electric motor. This would be huge advantage over the 6/1 tackle it came equipped with. I?ve been enjoying the boat too much to stop and refine that design of Mikes - that?s a winter project. In any case the parallelogram type mount works fairly well, it has pros and cons. One of the biggest cons is that the moro in the down position is father aft of the transom and will cavitate and lose thrust in larger waves, especially with weight on the bow. I will like the GB system (modified) over the alternative, but the West marine mount was easy to install and serves the immediate need. (What I really want is an electric,? steerable, remote controlled, 20 hp sail drive mounted right behind the keel trunk.) It?s doable for approximately one tone of money. One way I use the boat is unusual.I moore my boat 50 yards off shore.I use a stand-up paddle board for a tender because it's light and easy to cary to the shore. I then use the motor only, with the rudder up, to back the boat on to the beach to pick up? provisions and of course my wife, who is not one to paddle out to the boat. Depending on the tide and the slope of the beach, I can sometimes put the stern right on the beach.An opening in the stern rail, like the more modern R22s would be a huge asset for picking up passengers from the beach. (next year) Ric sv Dadventure stay tuned for ?motor mount mod? updatesRichard Stott, AIA, LEED APwww.stottarchitecture.com Office 631-283-1777Cell 516-965-3164 > On Aug 26, 2020, at 9:19 AM, Cary Tolbert wrote:> > Preview attachment 20200825_174517.jpg> 20200825_174517.jpg> 4 MB> Once> again HELP. Wed. the 25th I was motoring from my slip out on to the lake> and kerplunk. The motor raising part of the boat fell off with the motor> attached and still running. I also had it attached with a s/s chain. Lucky> or not.? ? ? Stan no longer makes the parts for an 86. He said he has long> moved to newer and hopefully better designs. It seems the starboard> material used to let the motor slide in the rails failed. My question is> should I attempt to repair with parts of better materials or buy a> gerneric? system for raising and lowering one's motor . Say something that> would fit a Catalina 22? Looking for advice from the centuries of> experience on the list> Cary Tolbert S/V Whisper '86> Radford, VA------------------------------Message: 9Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2020 21:07:40 +0000From: Chris Cowie To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] SaildriveMessage-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"I did a lot of research with sail drives and with torq From cp.boyce at comcast.net Thu Aug 27 08:37:19 2020 From: cp.boyce at comcast.net (cp.boyce at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 27 Aug 2020 12:37:19 -0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Saildrive Message-ID: <79117610.1.1598531837019@localhost> That's our baby, Take Five. We are here on the West Coast only not Seattle, Olympia. It works beautifully, but we haven't, for various reasons, taken her out much at all in the last 18 months or so. She's getting her bottom painted as we speak. I hope we can get out more this tear as it may be the last we have her. Celia Boyce Sent from Xfinity Connect Application -----Original Message----- From: tom.vanheule at intrinsicprograms.com To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Sent: 2020-08-26 2:09:06 PM Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Saildrive That's it! Anyone know how it's working over the years, as few they have been so far? I dearly want to get the 8hp merc4 stroke off the transom. On Wed, Aug 26, 2020, 3:59 PM Weiss, Robert L wrote: > Three years ago I went out and did some volunteer work for Stan and also > helped out at the boat show. I worked on that boat with the electric motor > in the lazarette. He built a well in the lazarette and the motor was on a > lift system that pulled it up into the well when not used so less drag. It > was to be connected wirelessly to a throttle mounted on the gunnel. > > Bob > > Robert L Weiss Jr. > Director of Music > First United Methodist Carbondale, IL > Professor Emeritus, SIUC > ________________________________ > From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of > Mark West via Rhodes22-list > Sent: Wednesday, August 26, 2020 3:48 PM > To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Saildrive > > [EXTERNAL EMAIL ALERT]: Verify sender before opening links or attachments. > > Believe that sailboat 2 maby 3 years ago was in the Annapolis boat show . > think sold to some one on west cost Seattle? Stan did design and build one > with Torpedo's equipment mounted inside lazaret Mark > > -----Original Message----- > From: Tom Van Heule > To: Scott Andrews ; The Rhodes 22 Email List < > rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> > Sent: Wed, Aug 26, 2020 4:33 pm > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Saildrive > > Stan had mentioned to me he had an idea where it would even retract, based > on some torqueedo parts. > > On Wed, Aug 26, 2020, 2:17 PM Scott Andrews via Rhodes22-list < > rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote: > > > Electric sail drive would be the ultimate. > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > > On Aug 26, 2020, at 12:06 PM, Jesse Shumaker < > > jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com> wrote: > > > > > > ?Mark, it sounds like your R22 has even more bells and whistles than > > most! > > > I'm curious about your self tending jib. I've only seen that feature > on > > > larger boats such as Island Packets. Have you found the self tending > jib > > > to work well? > > > > > > Jesse Shumaker > > > S/V Zephyr > > > > > >> On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 10:42 AM Mark Whipple > > > >> wrote: > > >> > > >> FWIW, I'm pretty sure the drive is at about the same depth as the > keel. > > >> I'll try to take a picture from the side later today. Also the rudder > > >> redirects some of the prop wash since the prop is in front. I haven't > > >> had it in the water yet this year (soon!) but I recall the feeling of > > the > > >> prop wash on the wheel was a little weird. Yes, my boat has a wheel > and > > a > > >> self-tending jib, too. Not sure if it will get up on a plane. We'll > see. > > >> > > >> Mark > > >> > > >> On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 11:31 AM Ric Stott > > > >> wrote: > > >> > > >>> Cory - that?s a really interesting install. > > >>> Is 15 HP enough to get on a plane? > > >>> It would not work for my needs - it?s too deep. > > >>> I would need the prop to be no deeper than the bottom of the keel, > and > > I > > >>> would mount it in the middle of the cockpit floor, about a foot aft > of > > >> the > > >>> end of the keel, understanding that the motor head (probably > electric > > >> and > > >>> smaller than the Yamaha head) would require a low cover above the > > cockpit > > >>> floor. > > >>> I would also like it to be a steerable sail drive with a remote. > > >>> Not sure that such a thing is even available. > > >>> Thanks > > >>> > > >>> Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP > > >>> > https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://www.stottarchitecture.com__;!!DAxFFaumoJbh!PlQA_WtyYkzS4GNoAcAUUzzOP244-mDGavysZjDcyuTVO4TkE54763WQgVV9UQ$ > > >>> Office 631-283-1777 > > >>> Cell 516-965-3164 > > >>> > > >>> > > >>> > > >>> > > >>> > > >>>> On Aug 26, 2020, at 11:18 AM, Mark Whipple > > >>> wrote: > > >>>> > > >>>> Ric, > > >>>> > > >>>> Here's a few pictures I dug up. I'm currently hunting for a source > for > > >>> the > > >>>> zincs. > > >>>> > > >>>> Mark > > >>>> [image: Rhodes 22 MA CL 03.jpg] > > >>>> [image: Rhodes 22 MA CL 04.jpg] > > >>>> [image: Rhodes 22 MA CL 08.jpg] > > >>>> > > >>>> > > >>>> [image: 20200824_165705.jpg] > > >>>> > > >>>> On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 10:53 AM Richard Stott < > > >>> ric at stottarchitecture.com> > > >>>> wrote: > > >>>> > > >>>>> Mark > > >>>>> 15 HP is a lot of motor. > > >>>>> Can you show us a pic of where its mounted? > > >>>>> Any pics of it under the boat? > > >>>>> Can you share performance and maneuverability with us? > > >>>>> I?m dying to know more about this. > > >>>>> A steerable unit is my fantasy but a fixed one might work. > > >>>>> Ric > > >>>>> sv Dadventure > > >>>>> HBNY > > >>>>> > > >>>>> Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP > > >>>>> > https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://www.stottarchitecture.com__;!!DAxFFaumoJbh!PlQA_WtyYkzS4GNoAcAUUzzOP244-mDGavysZjDcyuTVO4TkE54763WQgVV9UQ$ > > >>>>> Office 631-283-1777 > > >>>>> Cell 516-965-3164 > > >>>>> > > >>>>> > > >>>>> > > >>>>> > > >>>>> > > >>>>>> On Aug 26, 2020, at 10:43 AM, Mark Whipple < > mark at whipplefamily.com> > > >>>>> wrote: > > >>>>>> > > >>>>>> Hi Richard, > > >>>>>> > > >>>>>> I purchased my 2000 R22 last year and it came with a 15hp Yamaha > > >>>>> saildrive. > > >>>>>> I haven't had a chance to use the boat much yet, but it seems like > > it > > >>>>> will > > >>>>>> address many of the issues with an outboard on the transom > > >>>>>> (raising/lowering, keeping the drive underwater). > > >>>>>> > > >>>>>> Unfortunately the company that made this saildrive is essentially > > out > > >>> of > > >>>>>> business. I am concerned about what I'll have to do once this > > >> saildrive > > >>>>>> needs a part I can't get or needs a costly repair. I'm not sure I > > >> like > > >>>>> the > > >>>>>> alternative solutions that involve a motor on the transom. Maybe I > > >> need > > >>>>> to > > >>>>>> start saving my pennies toward a replacement. Regarding that > option, > > >>> the > > >>>>>> saildrives I've seen tend to have larger engine than mine - often > a > > >>>>> diesel. > > >>>>>> Mine is essentially a Yamaha (made by Parsun) outboard head so > it's > > >> not > > >>>>>> very tall. Maybe I'll be lucky and not have to solve the > replacement > > >>>>>> problem. > > >>>>>> > > >>>>>> Mark > > >>>>>> > > >>>>>> -- > > >>>>>> Boston, MA > > >>>>>> > > >>>>>> 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* > > >>>>>> 1987 Nimble 30 *For Sale* > > >>>>>> 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* > > >>>>>> > > >>>>>> On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 10:14 AM Richard Stott < > > >>>>> ric at stottarchitecture.com> > > >>>>>> wrote: > > >>>>>> > > >>>>>>> Cary > > >>>>>>> My ?84 GB mount broke on spring launch the year and my Yamaha 8 > > went > > >>> in > > >>>>>>> the drink. > > >>>>>>> I purchased a motor mount from West marine immediately so I could > > >>>>> continue > > >>>>>>> to use the boat with a spare motor I happened to have on hand. > > >>>>>>> Its a stinky smoky ?99 Merc 2 stroke, but it always starts and > runs > > >>> when > > >>>>>>> it need it - well almost always. > > >>>>>>> I talked it over on the list and discussed with Mike Riter a plan > > to > > >>>>>>> convert the GB mount to be equipped with a threaded gear (his > > >> sketch) > > >>> so > > >>>>>>> that the mont can be moved with a manual crank or an electric > > motor. > > >>>>>>> This would be huge advantage over the 6/1 tackle it came equipped > > >>> with. > > >>>>>>> I?ve been enjoying the boat too much to stop and refine that > design > > >> of > > >>>>>>> Mikes - that?s a winter project. > > >>>>>>> > > >>>>>>> In any case the parallelogram type mount works fairly well, it > has > > >>> pros > > >>>>>>> and cons. > > >>>>>>> One of the biggest cons is that the moro in the down position is > > >>> father > > >>>>>>> aft of the transom and will cavitate and lose thrust in larger > > >> waves, > > >>>>>>> especially with weight on the bow. > > >>>>>>> I will like the GB system (modified) over the alternative, but > the > > >>> West > > >>>>>>> marine mount was easy to install and serves the immediate need. > > >>>>>>> (What I really want is an electric, steerable, remote > controlled, > > >> 20 > > >>> hp > > >>>>>>> sail drive mounted right behind the keel trunk.) > > >>>>>>> It?s doable for approximately one tone of money. > > >>>>>>> > > >>>>>>> One way I use the boat is unusual. > > >>>>>>> I moore my boat 50 yards off shore. > > >>>>>>> I use a stand-up paddle board for a tender because it's light and > > >> easy > > >>>>> to > > >>>>>>> cary to the shore. > > >>>>>>> I then use the motor only, with the rudder up, to back the boat > on > > >> to > > >>>>> the > > >>>>>>> beach to pick up provisions and of course my wife, who is not > one > > >> to > > >>>>>>> paddle out to the boat. > > >>>>>>> Depending on the tide and the slope of the beach, I can sometimes > > >> put > > >>>>> the > > >>>>>>> stern right on the beach. > > >>>>>>> An opening in the stern rail, like the more modern R22s would be > a > > >>> huge > > >>>>>>> asset for picking up passengers from the beach. (next year) > > >>>>>>> Ric > > >>>>>>> sv Dadventure > > >>>>>>> stay tuned for ?motor mount mod? updates > > >>>>>>> > > >>>>>>> > > >>>>>>> > > >>>>>>> Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP > > >>>>>>> > https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://www.stottarchitecture.com__;!!DAxFFaumoJbh!PlQA_WtyYkzS4GNoAcAUUzzOP244-mDGavysZjDcyuTVO4TkE54763WQgVV9UQ$ > < > https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://www.stottarchitecture.com/__;!!DAxFFaumoJbh!PlQA_WtyYkzS4GNoAcAUUzzOP244-mDGavysZjDcyuTVO4TkE54763Wr06h0Cg$ > > > > >>>>>>> Office 631-283-1777 > > >>>>>>> Cell 516-965-3164 > > >>>>>>> > > >>>>>>> > > >>>>>>> > > >>>>>>> > > >>>>>>> > > >>>>>>>> On Aug 26, 2020, at 9:19 AM, Cary Tolbert < > retiredtoby at gmail.com> > > >>>>> wrote: > > >>>>>>>> > > >>>>>>>> Preview attachment 20200825_174517.jpg > > >>>>>>>> 20200825_174517.jpg > > >>>>>>>> 4 MB > > >>>>>>>> < > > >>>>>>> > > >>>>> > > >>> > > >> > > > https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=be1ab8c6c5&attid=0.1&permmsgid=msg-a:r-7374969717110164997&th=1742adb6a4937cb8&view=att&disp=safe&realattid=1742adb12d8c3f23bf81__;!!DAxFFaumoJbh!PlQA_WtyYkzS4GNoAcAUUzzOP244-mDGavysZjDcyuTVO4TkE54763UrqbKnIw$ > > >>>>>>>> Once > > >>>>>>>> again HELP. Wed. the 25th I was motoring from my slip out on to > > the > > >>>>> lake > > >>>>>>>> and kerplunk. The motor raising part of the boat fell off with > the > > >>>>> motor > > >>>>>>>> attached and still running. I also had it attached with a s/s > > >> chain. > > >>>>>>> Lucky > > >>>>>>>> or not.? ? ? Stan no longer makes the parts for an 86. He said > he > > >> has > > >>>>>>> long > > >>>>>>>> moved to newer and hopefully better designs. It seems the > > starboard > > >>>>>>>> material used to let the motor slide in the rails failed. My > > >> question > > >>>>> is > > >>>>>>>> should I attempt to repair with parts of better materials or > buy a > > >>>>>>>> gerneric system for raising and lowering one's motor . Say > > >> something > > >>>>>>> that > > >>>>>>>> would fit a Catalina 22? Looking for advice from the centuries > of > > >>>>>>>> experience on the list > > >>>>>>>> Cary Tolbert S/V Whisper '86 > > >>>>>>>> Radford, VA > > >>>>>>> > > >>>>>>> > > >>>>>> > > >>>>>> -- > > >>>>>> Boston, MA > > >>>>>> > > >>>>>> 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* > > >>>>>> 1986 Nimble 30 *For Sale* > > >>>>>> 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* > > >>>>> > > >>>>> > > >>>> -------------- next part -------------- > > >>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > >>>> Name: 20200824_165705.jpg > > >>>> Type: image/jpeg > > >>>> Size: 652767 bytes > > >>>> Desc: not available > > >>>> URL: < > > >>> > > >> > > > https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200826/730b3b80/attachment.jpg__;!!DAxFFaumoJbh!PlQA_WtyYkzS4GNoAcAUUzzOP244-mDGavysZjDcyuTVO4TkE54763XjNYun2Q$ > > >>>> > > >>>> -------------- next part -------------- > > >>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > >>>> Name: Rhodes 22 MA CL 03.jpg > > >>>> Type: image/jpeg > > >>>> Size: 61722 bytes > > >>>> Desc: not available > > >>>> URL: < > > >>> > > >> > > > https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200826/730b3b80/attachment-0001.jpg__;!!DAxFFaumoJbh!PlQA_WtyYkzS4GNoAcAUUzzOP244-mDGavysZjDcyuTVO4TkE54763XDKlETPg$ > > >>>> > > >>>> -------------- next part -------------- > > >>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > >>>> Name: Rhodes 22 MA CL 04.jpg > > >>>> Type: image/jpeg > > >>>> Size: 79585 bytes > > >>>> Desc: not available > > >>>> URL: < > > >>> > > >> > > > https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200826/730b3b80/attachment-0002.jpg__;!!DAxFFaumoJbh!PlQA_WtyYkzS4GNoAcAUUzzOP244-mDGavysZjDcyuTVO4TkE54763XB6rYtFw$ > > >>>> > > >>>> -------------- next part -------------- > > >>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > >>>> Name: Rhodes 22 MA CL 08.jpg > > >>>> Type: image/jpeg > > >>>> Size: 200670 bytes > > >>>> Desc: not available > > >>>> URL: < > > >>> > > >> > > > https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200826/730b3b80/attachment-0003.jpg__;!!DAxFFaumoJbh!PlQA_WtyYkzS4GNoAcAUUzzOP244-mDGavysZjDcyuTVO4TkE54763UQRjoChQ$ > > >>>> > > >>> > > >>> > > >> > > > > > From peter at sunnybeeches.com Thu Aug 27 11:04:11 2020 From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg) Date: Thu, 27 Aug 2020 11:04:11 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Maine Sailing Anyone? In-Reply-To: References: <1596909318869-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1597056346226-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <70104B9D-0819-4814-A1B0-A6437B23D778@sunnybeeches.com> <1597452586742-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <270BDE41-46D8-4D48-AE2C-17DC546BF563@sunnybeeches.com> <841D5CC8-DF53-4A37-9C38-CBE06A48F5BA@sunnybeeches.com> <1597574413781-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <79FE58B9-6467-45F6-B9EA-D936375FBB2E@sunnybeeches.com> <1598318291215-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <382126CD-6054-4580-9717-AAE131EB08F2@sunnybeeches.com> Or perhaps not quite that long. Video of the first day is up. You can find it here: https://youtu.be/jxfdhiJXeIw ?Peter > On Aug 24, 2020, at 9:26 PM, Peter Nyberg wrote: > > They are in the works. It will be a week or two. > > >> On Aug 24, 2020, at 9:18 PM, gramille wrote: >> >> Peter , when can we look forward to the videos? >> Graham >> s/v 00Sailin >> >> >> >> -- >> Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > From chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com Thu Aug 27 12:31:16 2020 From: chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com (Chris Geankoplis) Date: Thu, 27 Aug 2020 12:31:16 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Maine Sailing Anyone? In-Reply-To: <382126CD-6054-4580-9717-AAE131EB08F2@sunnybeeches.com> References: <1596909318869-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1597056346226-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <70104B9D-0819-4814-A1B0-A6437B23D778@sunnybeeches.com> <1597452586742-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <270BDE41-46D8-4D48-AE2C-17DC546BF563@sunnybeeches.com> <841D5CC8-DF53-4A37-9C38-CBE06A48F5BA@sunnybeeches.com> <1597574413781-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <79FE58B9-6467-45F6-B9EA-D936375FBB2E@sunnybeeches.com> <1598318291215-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <382126CD-6054-4580-9717-AAE131EB08F2@sunnybeeches.com> Message-ID: You know Peter, I just finished watching your video, day one. My wife asked me why did I have a grin on my face for 8 minutes straight. 'Nuf said. Thanks! Chris Geankoplis Enosis On Thu, Aug 27, 2020 at 11:07 AM Peter Nyberg wrote: > Or perhaps not quite that long. Video of the first day is up. You can > find it here: https://youtu.be/jxfdhiJXeIw > > ?Peter > > > On Aug 24, 2020, at 9:26 PM, Peter Nyberg > wrote: > > > > They are in the works. It will be a week or two. > > > > > >> On Aug 24, 2020, at 9:18 PM, gramille wrote: > >> > >> Peter , when can we look forward to the videos? > >> Graham > >> s/v 00Sailin > >> > >> > >> > >> -- > >> Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > > > > From sloopblueheron at gmail.com Thu Aug 27 13:48:40 2020 From: sloopblueheron at gmail.com (Rick Lange) Date: Thu, 27 Aug 2020 13:48:40 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Maine Sailing Anyone? In-Reply-To: <382126CD-6054-4580-9717-AAE131EB08F2@sunnybeeches.com> References: <1596909318869-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1597056346226-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <70104B9D-0819-4814-A1B0-A6437B23D778@sunnybeeches.com> <1597452586742-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <270BDE41-46D8-4D48-AE2C-17DC546BF563@sunnybeeches.com> <841D5CC8-DF53-4A37-9C38-CBE06A48F5BA@sunnybeeches.com> <1597574413781-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <79FE58B9-6467-45F6-B9EA-D936375FBB2E@sunnybeeches.com> <1598318291215-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <382126CD-6054-4580-9717-AAE131EB08F2@sunnybeeches.com> Message-ID: Hey Peter, got an extra berth? Regards, Rick Lange On Thu, Aug 27, 2020 at 11:07 AM Peter Nyberg wrote: > Or perhaps not quite that long. Video of the first day is up. You can > find it here: https://youtu.be/jxfdhiJXeIw > > ?Peter > > > On Aug 24, 2020, at 9:26 PM, Peter Nyberg > wrote: > > > > They are in the works. It will be a week or two. > > > > > >> On Aug 24, 2020, at 9:18 PM, gramille wrote: > >> > >> Peter , when can we look forward to the videos? > >> Graham > >> s/v 00Sailin > >> > >> > >> > >> -- > >> Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > > > > From rlowe at vt.edu Thu Aug 27 14:23:19 2020 From: rlowe at vt.edu (Lowe, Rob) Date: Thu, 27 Aug 2020 18:23:19 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Maine Sailing Anyone? In-Reply-To: <382126CD-6054-4580-9717-AAE131EB08F2@sunnybeeches.com> References: <1596909318869-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1597056346226-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <70104B9D-0819-4814-A1B0-A6437B23D778@sunnybeeches.com> <1597452586742-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <270BDE41-46D8-4D48-AE2C-17DC546BF563@sunnybeeches.com> <841D5CC8-DF53-4A37-9C38-CBE06A48F5BA@sunnybeeches.com> <1597574413781-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <79FE58B9-6467-45F6-B9EA-D936375FBB2E@sunnybeeches.com> <1598318291215-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <382126CD-6054-4580-9717-AAE131EB08F2@sunnybeeches.com> Message-ID: Peter, Thanks for taking the time to produce this. You need to be in the biz! Nice photos and we look forward to day 2 (and 3, 4, 5....). - rob -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of Peter Nyberg Sent: Thursday, August 27, 2020 11:04 AM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Maine Sailing Anyone? Or perhaps not quite that long. Video of the first day is up. You can find it here: https://youtu.be/jxfdhiJXeIw ?Peter > On Aug 24, 2020, at 9:26 PM, Peter Nyberg wrote: > > They are in the works. It will be a week or two. > > >> On Aug 24, 2020, at 9:18 PM, gramille wrote: >> >> Peter , when can we look forward to the videos? >> Graham >> s/v 00Sailin >> >> >> >> -- >> Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > From jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com Fri Aug 28 13:14:58 2020 From: jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com (Jesse Shumaker) Date: Fri, 28 Aug 2020 12:14:58 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Maine Sailing Anyone? In-Reply-To: <382126CD-6054-4580-9717-AAE131EB08F2@sunnybeeches.com> References: <1596909318869-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1597056346226-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <70104B9D-0819-4814-A1B0-A6437B23D778@sunnybeeches.com> <1597452586742-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <270BDE41-46D8-4D48-AE2C-17DC546BF563@sunnybeeches.com> <841D5CC8-DF53-4A37-9C38-CBE06A48F5BA@sunnybeeches.com> <1597574413781-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <79FE58B9-6467-45F6-B9EA-D936375FBB2E@sunnybeeches.com> <1598318291215-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <382126CD-6054-4580-9717-AAE131EB08F2@sunnybeeches.com> Message-ID: Peter, thanks for sharing the recent cruise videos. The drone shots from the day 2 video are a nice addition. Also, nice work on the table and mounts for instruments / devices (featured in episode 83). You are a genius at making the very most out of all the available space that an R22 can offer! Jesse Shumaker S/V Zephyr On Thu, Aug 27, 2020 at 10:07 AM Peter Nyberg wrote: > Or perhaps not quite that long. Video of the first day is up. You can > find it here: https://youtu.be/jxfdhiJXeIw > > ?Peter > > > On Aug 24, 2020, at 9:26 PM, Peter Nyberg > wrote: > > > > They are in the works. It will be a week or two. > > > > > >> On Aug 24, 2020, at 9:18 PM, gramille wrote: > >> > >> Peter , when can we look forward to the videos? > >> Graham > >> s/v 00Sailin > >> > >> > >> > >> -- > >> Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > > > > From chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com Fri Aug 28 13:20:52 2020 From: chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com (Chris Geankoplis) Date: Fri, 28 Aug 2020 13:20:52 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Maine Sailing Anyone? In-Reply-To: References: <1596909318869-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1597056346226-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <70104B9D-0819-4814-A1B0-A6437B23D778@sunnybeeches.com> <1597452586742-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <270BDE41-46D8-4D48-AE2C-17DC546BF563@sunnybeeches.com> <841D5CC8-DF53-4A37-9C38-CBE06A48F5BA@sunnybeeches.com> <1597574413781-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <79FE58B9-6467-45F6-B9EA-D936375FBB2E@sunnybeeches.com> <1598318291215-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <382126CD-6054-4580-9717-AAE131EB08F2@sunnybeeches.com> Message-ID: Gee, Did I miss day two? Chris Geankoplis Enosis On Fri, Aug 28, 2020 at 1:15 PM Jesse Shumaker < jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com> wrote: > Peter, thanks for sharing the recent cruise videos. The drone shots from > the day 2 video are a nice addition. Also, nice work on the table and > mounts for instruments / devices (featured in episode 83). You are a > genius at making the very most out of all the available space that an R22 > can offer! > > Jesse Shumaker > S/V Zephyr > > On Thu, Aug 27, 2020 at 10:07 AM Peter Nyberg > wrote: > > > Or perhaps not quite that long. Video of the first day is up. You can > > find it here: https://youtu.be/jxfdhiJXeIw > > > > > ?Peter > > > > > On Aug 24, 2020, at 9:26 PM, Peter Nyberg > > wrote: > > > > > > They are in the works. It will be a week or two. > > > > > > > > >> On Aug 24, 2020, at 9:18 PM, gramille wrote: > > >> > > >> Peter , when can we look forward to the videos? > > >> Graham > > >> s/v 00Sailin > > >> > > >> > > >> > > >> -- > > >> Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > > > > > > > > From jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com Fri Aug 28 13:30:14 2020 From: jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com (Jesse Shumaker) Date: Fri, 28 Aug 2020 12:30:14 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Maine Sailing Anyone? In-Reply-To: References: <1596909318869-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1597056346226-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <70104B9D-0819-4814-A1B0-A6437B23D778@sunnybeeches.com> <1597452586742-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <270BDE41-46D8-4D48-AE2C-17DC546BF563@sunnybeeches.com> <841D5CC8-DF53-4A37-9C38-CBE06A48F5BA@sunnybeeches.com> <1597574413781-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <79FE58B9-6467-45F6-B9EA-D936375FBB2E@sunnybeeches.com> <1598318291215-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <382126CD-6054-4580-9717-AAE131EB08F2@sunnybeeches.com> Message-ID: If you subscribe to Peter's S/V Silverheels youtube channel and turn on notifications then you'll never miss out! https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCJdqO9qV6t5hVUUiDK4MP3w On Fri, Aug 28, 2020 at 12:21 PM Chris Geankoplis wrote: > Gee, > Did I miss day two? > Chris Geankoplis > Enosis > > On Fri, Aug 28, 2020 at 1:15 PM Jesse Shumaker < > jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com> wrote: > > > Peter, thanks for sharing the recent cruise videos. The drone shots from > > the day 2 video are a nice addition. Also, nice work on the table and > > mounts for instruments / devices (featured in episode 83). You are a > > genius at making the very most out of all the available space that an R22 > > can offer! > > > > Jesse Shumaker > > S/V Zephyr > > > > On Thu, Aug 27, 2020 at 10:07 AM Peter Nyberg > > wrote: > > > > > Or perhaps not quite that long. Video of the first day is up. You can > > > find it here: https://youtu.be/jxfdhiJXeIw < > https://youtu.be/jxfdhiJXeIw > > > > > > > > > ?Peter > > > > > > > On Aug 24, 2020, at 9:26 PM, Peter Nyberg > > > wrote: > > > > > > > > They are in the works. It will be a week or two. > > > > > > > > > > > >> On Aug 24, 2020, at 9:18 PM, gramille wrote: > > > >> > > > >> Peter , when can we look forward to the videos? > > > >> Graham > > > >> s/v 00Sailin > > > >> > > > >> > > > >> > > > >> -- > > > >> Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > > > > > > > > > > > > > From mark at whipplefamily.com Fri Aug 28 14:23:44 2020 From: mark at whipplefamily.com (Mark Whipple) Date: Fri, 28 Aug 2020 14:23:44 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] She floats! Message-ID: It's been a long summer for me with too many projects and no sailing. So I am pleased to announce that my Rhodes 22, Luna Mia, went in the water around 9am EST today! Looking forward to some fun September sailing on Boston Harbor. I did launch her for just a few weeks last year (I bought her last spring) but never really did any sailing. This year I was able to raise the mast and launch the boat myself for the first time! I choose a day to raise the mast with very little wind. I used lines to help stabilize the mast but I still want to make a set of extenders for the forward lower shrouds. Should they be 8" or a little more? The engine is still a little balky but I haven't tried changing the fuel filter yet. I hope that's it. I'll be interested to see how I like the self-tending jib. I have a new outhaul car to install and a new traveller (that will be a bigger project). I hope to go sailing Monday or Tuesday depending on the weather etc. FYI You can see downtown Boston in the background of this shot. Mark -- Boston, MA 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* 1987 Nimble 30 *For Sale* 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20200828_131035.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 533899 bytes Desc: not available URL: From chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com Fri Aug 28 14:59:30 2020 From: chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com (Chris Geankoplis) Date: Fri, 28 Aug 2020 14:59:30 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Maine Sailing Anyone? In-Reply-To: References: <1596909318869-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1597056346226-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <70104B9D-0819-4814-A1B0-A6437B23D778@sunnybeeches.com> <1597452586742-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <270BDE41-46D8-4D48-AE2C-17DC546BF563@sunnybeeches.com> <841D5CC8-DF53-4A37-9C38-CBE06A48F5BA@sunnybeeches.com> <1597574413781-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <79FE58B9-6467-45F6-B9EA-D936375FBB2E@sunnybeeches.com> <1598318291215-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <382126CD-6054-4580-9717-AAE131EB08F2@sunnybeeches.com> Message-ID: Great! thanks Chris G Enosis On Fri, Aug 28, 2020 at 1:30 PM Jesse Shumaker < jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com> wrote: > If you subscribe to Peter's S/V Silverheels youtube channel and turn on > notifications then you'll never miss out! > https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCJdqO9qV6t5hVUUiDK4MP3w > > On Fri, Aug 28, 2020 at 12:21 PM Chris Geankoplis < > chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com> > wrote: > > > Gee, > > Did I miss day two? > > Chris Geankoplis > > Enosis > > > > On Fri, Aug 28, 2020 at 1:15 PM Jesse Shumaker < > > jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com> wrote: > > > > > Peter, thanks for sharing the recent cruise videos. The drone shots > from > > > the day 2 video are a nice addition. Also, nice work on the table and > > > mounts for instruments / devices (featured in episode 83). You are a > > > genius at making the very most out of all the available space that an > R22 > > > can offer! > > > > > > Jesse Shumaker > > > S/V Zephyr > > > > > > On Thu, Aug 27, 2020 at 10:07 AM Peter Nyberg > > > wrote: > > > > > > > Or perhaps not quite that long. Video of the first day is up. You > can > > > > find it here: https://youtu.be/jxfdhiJXeIw < > > https://youtu.be/jxfdhiJXeIw > > > > > > > > > > > > ?Peter > > > > > > > > > On Aug 24, 2020, at 9:26 PM, Peter Nyberg > > > > wrote: > > > > > > > > > > They are in the works. It will be a week or two. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >> On Aug 24, 2020, at 9:18 PM, gramille wrote: > > > > >> > > > > >> Peter , when can we look forward to the videos? > > > > >> Graham > > > > >> s/v 00Sailin > > > > >> > > > > >> > > > > >> > > > > >> -- > > > > >> Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > From peter at sunnybeeches.com Fri Aug 28 15:04:15 2020 From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg) Date: Fri, 28 Aug 2020 15:04:15 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] She floats! In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1E636A21-0EDF-4574-AD5F-B5DA95E5D63B@sunnybeeches.com> Mark, Many unusual features on your boat, as you?ve mentioned. Is the bow-sprit for a spinnaker? Peter Nyberg Coventry, CT s/v Silverheels (1988/2016) > On Aug 28, 2020, at 2:23 PM, Mark Whipple wrote: > > It's been a long summer for me with too many projects and no sailing. So I > am pleased to announce that my Rhodes 22, Luna Mia, went in the water > around 9am EST today! Looking forward to some fun September sailing on > Boston Harbor. > > I did launch her for just a few weeks last year (I bought her last spring) > but never really did any sailing. This year I was able to raise the mast > and launch the boat myself for the first time! I choose a day to raise the > mast with very little wind. I used lines to help stabilize the mast but I > still want to make a set of extenders for the forward lower shrouds. Should > they be 8" or a little more? > > The engine is still a little balky but I haven't tried changing the fuel > filter yet. I hope that's it. I'll be interested to see how I like the > self-tending jib. I have a new outhaul car to install and a new traveller > (that will be a bigger project). I hope to go sailing Monday or Tuesday > depending on the weather etc. > > FYI You can see downtown Boston in the background of this shot. > > Mark > > -- > Boston, MA > > 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* > 1987 Nimble 30 *For Sale* > 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: 20200828_131035.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 533899 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: From rlowe at vt.edu Fri Aug 28 15:06:22 2020 From: rlowe at vt.edu (Lowe, Rob) Date: Fri, 28 Aug 2020 19:06:22 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] She floats! In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Mark, Congratulations. Nice looking boat. You've definitely got a one of a kind boat in the fleet. Wheel steering and self-tending jib? Bow pulpit? Can't say we've seen the self-tending jib and pulpit. Someone has done some work on her. - rob -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of Mark Whipple Sent: Friday, August 28, 2020 2:24 PM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: [Rhodes22-list] She floats! It's been a long summer for me with too many projects and no sailing. So I am pleased to announce that my Rhodes 22, Luna Mia, went in the water around 9am EST today! Looking forward to some fun September sailing on Boston Harbor. I did launch her for just a few weeks last year (I bought her last spring) but never really did any sailing. This year I was able to raise the mast and launch the boat myself for the first time! I choose a day to raise the mast with very little wind. I used lines to help stabilize the mast but I still want to make a set of extenders for the forward lower shrouds. Should they be 8" or a little more? The engine is still a little balky but I haven't tried changing the fuel filter yet. I hope that's it. I'll be interested to see how I like the self-tending jib. I have a new outhaul car to install and a new traveller (that will be a bigger project). I hope to go sailing Monday or Tuesday depending on the weather etc. FYI You can see downtown Boston in the background of this shot. Mark -- Boston, MA 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* 1987 Nimble 30 *For Sale* 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20200828_131035.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 533899 bytes Desc: not available URL: From alexis.seigneurin at gmail.com Fri Aug 28 15:12:11 2020 From: alexis.seigneurin at gmail.com (Alexis Seigneurin) Date: Fri, 28 Aug 2020 19:12:11 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] She floats! In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: Congrats! Nice looking boat indeed. I am a bit puzzled by this appendix at the bow. I guess that?s the self tending jib. I?ll have to look up how that works. Speaking of engine and fuel filter, my engine was cutting off at idle speed so I went through a few cleaning operations: I rebuilt the carburetor and replaced the fuel filter. Turns out the air intake of the carburetor was the cause of the engine flooding. Now I know... Alexis ________________________________ From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of Lowe, Rob Sent: Friday, August 28, 2020 3:06:22 PM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] She floats! Mark, Congratulations. Nice looking boat. You've definitely got a one of a kind boat in the fleet. Wheel steering and self-tending jib? Bow pulpit? Can't say we've seen the self-tending jib and pulpit. Someone has done some work on her. - rob -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of Mark Whipple Sent: Friday, August 28, 2020 2:24 PM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: [Rhodes22-list] She floats! It's been a long summer for me with too many projects and no sailing. So I am pleased to announce that my Rhodes 22, Luna Mia, went in the water around 9am EST today! Looking forward to some fun September sailing on Boston Harbor. I did launch her for just a few weeks last year (I bought her last spring) but never really did any sailing. This year I was able to raise the mast and launch the boat myself for the first time! I choose a day to raise the mast with very little wind. I used lines to help stabilize the mast but I still want to make a set of extenders for the forward lower shrouds. Should they be 8" or a little more? The engine is still a little balky but I haven't tried changing the fuel filter yet. I hope that's it. I'll be interested to see how I like the self-tending jib. I have a new outhaul car to install and a new traveller (that will be a bigger project). I hope to go sailing Monday or Tuesday depending on the weather etc. FYI You can see downtown Boston in the background of this shot. Mark -- Boston, MA 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* 1987 Nimble 30 *For Sale* 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20200828_131035.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 533899 bytes Desc: not available URL: From reuben.mezrich at gmail.com Fri Aug 28 15:17:36 2020 From: reuben.mezrich at gmail.com (Reuben Mezrich) Date: Fri, 28 Aug 2020 15:17:36 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] She floats! In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: That?s a Hoyt boom at the bow that has some nice features (including self-vanging to keep the foot of the sail down). I had one on a previous Harbor 20 (made by Shock) and for the staysail on the Island Packet that I?ve just sold). Mark: do you know if that was installed by Stan or by the previous owner? ?Reuben (Waiting on a recycle Rhodes 22) Sent from my iPad > On Aug 28, 2020, at 3:12 PM, Alexis Seigneurin wrote: > > ?Congrats! Nice looking boat indeed. I am a bit puzzled by this appendix at the bow. I guess that?s the self tending jib. I?ll have to look up how that works. > > Speaking of engine and fuel filter, my engine was cutting off at idle speed so I went through a few cleaning operations: I rebuilt the carburetor and replaced the fuel filter. Turns out the air intake of the carburetor was the cause of the engine flooding. Now I know... > > Alexis > > ________________________________ > From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of Lowe, Rob > Sent: Friday, August 28, 2020 3:06:22 PM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] She floats! > > Mark, > Congratulations. Nice looking boat. You've definitely got a one of a kind boat in the fleet. Wheel steering and self-tending jib? Bow pulpit? Can't say we've seen the self-tending jib and pulpit. Someone has done some work on her. - rob > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of Mark Whipple > Sent: Friday, August 28, 2020 2:24 PM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: [Rhodes22-list] She floats! > > It's been a long summer for me with too many projects and no sailing. So I am pleased to announce that my Rhodes 22, Luna Mia, went in the water around 9am EST today! Looking forward to some fun September sailing on Boston Harbor. > > I did launch her for just a few weeks last year (I bought her last spring) but never really did any sailing. This year I was able to raise the mast and launch the boat myself for the first time! I choose a day to raise the mast with very little wind. I used lines to help stabilize the mast but I still want to make a set of extenders for the forward lower shrouds. Should they be 8" or a little more? > > The engine is still a little balky but I haven't tried changing the fuel filter yet. I hope that's it. I'll be interested to see how I like the self-tending jib. I have a new outhaul car to install and a new traveller (that will be a bigger project). I hope to go sailing Monday or Tuesday depending on the weather etc. > > FYI You can see downtown Boston in the background of this shot. > > Mark > > -- > Boston, MA > > 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* > 1987 Nimble 30 *For Sale* > 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: 20200828_131035.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 533899 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: From jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com Fri Aug 28 15:51:44 2020 From: jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com (Jesse Shumaker) Date: Fri, 28 Aug 2020 14:51:44 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] She floats! In-Reply-To: <1E636A21-0EDF-4574-AD5F-B5DA95E5D63B@sunnybeeches.com> References: <1E636A21-0EDF-4574-AD5F-B5DA95E5D63B@sunnybeeches.com> Message-ID: Congrats Mark! Even amongst the R22 crowd your boat stands out with some interesting features. I was surprised to see the taper in your mainsail - it appears the foot rises as it goes aft. That seems to be common on larger boats with IMF, but the typical R22 has a level foot on the main. To build on Peter's comment, is the green line hooked to the bow pulpit a spinnaker halyard? On Fri, Aug 28, 2020 at 2:05 PM Peter Nyberg wrote: > Mark, > > Many unusual features on your boat, as you?ve mentioned. > > Is the bow-sprit for a spinnaker? > > Peter Nyberg > Coventry, CT > s/v Silverheels (1988/2016) > > > On Aug 28, 2020, at 2:23 PM, Mark Whipple > wrote: > > > > It's been a long summer for me with too many projects and no sailing. So > I > > am pleased to announce that my Rhodes 22, Luna Mia, went in the water > > around 9am EST today! Looking forward to some fun September sailing on > > Boston Harbor. > > > > I did launch her for just a few weeks last year (I bought her last > spring) > > but never really did any sailing. This year I was able to raise the mast > > and launch the boat myself for the first time! I choose a day to raise > the > > mast with very little wind. I used lines to help stabilize the mast but I > > still want to make a set of extenders for the forward lower shrouds. > Should > > they be 8" or a little more? > > > > The engine is still a little balky but I haven't tried changing the fuel > > filter yet. I hope that's it. I'll be interested to see how I like the > > self-tending jib. I have a new outhaul car to install and a new traveller > > (that will be a bigger project). I hope to go sailing Monday or Tuesday > > depending on the weather etc. > > > > FYI You can see downtown Boston in the background of this shot. > > > > Mark > > > > -- > > Boston, MA > > > > 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* > > 1987 Nimble 30 *For Sale* > > 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* > > -------------- next part -------------- > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > Name: 20200828_131035.jpg > > Type: image/jpeg > > Size: 533899 bytes > > Desc: not available > > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200828/058555a7/attachment.jpg > > > > From snstaum at gmail.com Fri Aug 28 16:00:03 2020 From: snstaum at gmail.com (Stephen Staum) Date: Fri, 28 Aug 2020 16:00:03 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Saildrive In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Mark, Do you also have wheel steering & a self tending jib? Is so, I know the boat. I looked at it a number of years ago when it was being sold by a club in Everett, MA & then it turned up a few years later on a mooring next to me at Squantum Yacht Club in Quincy. Are you floating? I never got to sail it & am curious how it handles. Stephen Staum s/v Carol Lee 2 Needham, MA On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 10:44 AM Mark Whipple wrote: > Hi Richard, > > > > I purchased my 2000 R22 last year and it came with a 15hp Yamaha saildrive. > > I haven't had a chance to use the boat much yet, but it seems like it will > > address many of the issues with an outboard on the transom > > (raising/lowering, keeping the drive underwater). > > > > Unfortunately the company that made this saildrive is essentially out of > > business. I am concerned about what I'll have to do once this saildrive > > needs a part I can't get or needs a costly repair. I'm not sure I like the > > alternative solutions that involve a motor on the transom. Maybe I need to > > start saving my pennies toward a replacement. Regarding that option, the > > saildrives I've seen tend to have larger engine than mine - often a diesel. > > Mine is essentially a Yamaha (made by Parsun) outboard head so it's not > > very tall. Maybe I'll be lucky and not have to solve the replacement > > problem. > > > > Mark > > > > -- > > Boston, MA > > > > 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* > > 1987 Nimble 30 *For Sale* > > 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* > > > > On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 10:14 AM Richard Stott > > wrote: > > > > > Cary > > > My ?84 GB mount broke on spring launch the year and my Yamaha 8 went in > > > the drink. > > > I purchased a motor mount from West marine immediately so I could > continue > > > to use the boat with a spare motor I happened to have on hand. > > > Its a stinky smoky ?99 Merc 2 stroke, but it always starts and runs when > > > it need it - well almost always. > > > I talked it over on the list and discussed with Mike Riter a plan to > > > convert the GB mount to be equipped with a threaded gear (his sketch) so > > > that the mont can be moved with a manual crank or an electric motor. > > > This would be huge advantage over the 6/1 tackle it came equipped with. > > > I?ve been enjoying the boat too much to stop and refine that design of > > > Mikes - that?s a winter project. > > > > > > In any case the parallelogram type mount works fairly well, it has pros > > > and cons. > > > One of the biggest cons is that the moro in the down position is father > > > aft of the transom and will cavitate and lose thrust in larger waves, > > > especially with weight on the bow. > > > I will like the GB system (modified) over the alternative, but the West > > > marine mount was easy to install and serves the immediate need. > > > (What I really want is an electric, steerable, remote controlled, 20 hp > > > sail drive mounted right behind the keel trunk.) > > > It?s doable for approximately one tone of money. > > > > > > One way I use the boat is unusual. > > > I moore my boat 50 yards off shore. > > > I use a stand-up paddle board for a tender because it's light and easy to > > > cary to the shore. > > > I then use the motor only, with the rudder up, to back the boat on to the > > > beach to pick up provisions and of course my wife, who is not one to > > > paddle out to the boat. > > > Depending on the tide and the slope of the beach, I can sometimes put the > > > stern right on the beach. > > > An opening in the stern rail, like the more modern R22s would be a huge > > > asset for picking up passengers from the beach. (next year) > > > Ric > > > sv Dadventure > > > stay tuned for ?motor mount mod? updates > > > > > > > > > > > > Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP > > > www.stottarchitecture.com > > > Office 631-283-1777 > > > Cell 516-965-3164 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > On Aug 26, 2020, at 9:19 AM, Cary Tolbert > wrote: > > > > > > > > Preview attachment 20200825_174517.jpg > > > > 20200825_174517.jpg > > > > 4 MB > > > > < > > > > https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=be1ab8c6c5&attid=0.1&permmsgid=msg-a:r-7374969717110164997&th=1742adb6a4937cb8&view=att&disp=safe&realattid=1742adb12d8c3f23bf81 > > > >Once > > > > again HELP. Wed. the 25th I was motoring from my slip out on to the > lake > > > > and kerplunk. The motor raising part of the boat fell off with the > motor > > > > attached and still running. I also had it attached with a s/s chain. > > > Lucky > > > > or not.? ? ? Stan no longer makes the parts for an 86. He said he has > > > long > > > > moved to newer and hopefully better designs. It seems the starboard > > > > material used to let the motor slide in the rails failed. My question > is > > > > should I attempt to repair with parts of better materials or buy a > > > > gerneric system for raising and lowering one's motor . Say something > > > that > > > > would fit a Catalina 22? Looking for advice from the centuries of > > > > experience on the list > > > > Cary Tolbert S/V Whisper '86 > > > > Radford, VA > > > > > > > > > > -- > > Boston, MA > > > > 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* > > 1986 Nimble 30 *For Sale* > > 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* > > -- Stephen Staum Pariser Industries, Inc. From rlowe at vt.edu Fri Aug 28 16:22:31 2020 From: rlowe at vt.edu (Lowe, Rob) Date: Fri, 28 Aug 2020 20:22:31 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] She floats! In-Reply-To: References: <1E636A21-0EDF-4574-AD5F-B5DA95E5D63B@sunnybeeches.com> Message-ID: Jesse, I noticed the main too. As you suggest, the foot of the sail should furl up level with the boom. - rob -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of Jesse Shumaker Sent: Friday, August 28, 2020 3:52 PM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] She floats! Congrats Mark! Even amongst the R22 crowd your boat stands out with some interesting features. I was surprised to see the taper in your mainsail - it appears the foot rises as it goes aft. That seems to be common on larger boats with IMF, but the typical R22 has a level foot on the main. To build on Peter's comment, is the green line hooked to the bow pulpit a spinnaker halyard? On Fri, Aug 28, 2020 at 2:05 PM Peter Nyberg wrote: > Mark, > > Many unusual features on your boat, as you?ve mentioned. > > Is the bow-sprit for a spinnaker? > > Peter Nyberg > Coventry, CT > s/v Silverheels (1988/2016) > > > On Aug 28, 2020, at 2:23 PM, Mark Whipple > wrote: > > > > It's been a long summer for me with too many projects and no > > sailing. So > I > > am pleased to announce that my Rhodes 22, Luna Mia, went in the > > water around 9am EST today! Looking forward to some fun September > > sailing on Boston Harbor. > > > > I did launch her for just a few weeks last year (I bought her last > spring) > > but never really did any sailing. This year I was able to raise the > > mast and launch the boat myself for the first time! I choose a day > > to raise > the > > mast with very little wind. I used lines to help stabilize the mast > > but I still want to make a set of extenders for the forward lower shrouds. > Should > > they be 8" or a little more? > > > > The engine is still a little balky but I haven't tried changing the > > fuel filter yet. I hope that's it. I'll be interested to see how I > > like the self-tending jib. I have a new outhaul car to install and a > > new traveller (that will be a bigger project). I hope to go sailing > > Monday or Tuesday depending on the weather etc. > > > > FYI You can see downtown Boston in the background of this shot. > > > > Mark > > > > -- > > Boston, MA > > > > 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* > > 1987 Nimble 30 *For Sale* > > 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* > > -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was > > scrubbed... > > Name: 20200828_131035.jpg > > Type: image/jpeg > > Size: 533899 bytes > > Desc: not available > > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200828/05855 > 5a7/attachment.jpg > > > > From retro53 at msn.com Fri Aug 28 17:55:54 2020 From: retro53 at msn.com (John Keyser) Date: Fri, 28 Aug 2020 21:55:54 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] She floats! In-Reply-To: References: <1E636A21-0EDF-4574-AD5F-B5DA95E5D63B@sunnybeeches.com> , Message-ID: Beautiful boat, Mark! Do you know who is the manufacturer of the pedestal steering system in your boat? John Keyser Philadelphia, PA 1980 R-22 "Deci-Belle" ________________________________ From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of Lowe, Rob Sent: Friday, August 28, 2020 4:22 PM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] She floats! Jesse, I noticed the main too. As you suggest, the foot of the sail should furl up level with the boom. - rob -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of Jesse Shumaker Sent: Friday, August 28, 2020 3:52 PM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] She floats! Congrats Mark! Even amongst the R22 crowd your boat stands out with some interesting features. I was surprised to see the taper in your mainsail - it appears the foot rises as it goes aft. That seems to be common on larger boats with IMF, but the typical R22 has a level foot on the main. To build on Peter's comment, is the green line hooked to the bow pulpit a spinnaker halyard? On Fri, Aug 28, 2020 at 2:05 PM Peter Nyberg wrote: > Mark, > > Many unusual features on your boat, as you?ve mentioned. > > Is the bow-sprit for a spinnaker? > > Peter Nyberg > Coventry, CT > s/v Silverheels (1988/2016) > > > On Aug 28, 2020, at 2:23 PM, Mark Whipple > wrote: > > > > It's been a long summer for me with too many projects and no > > sailing. So > I > > am pleased to announce that my Rhodes 22, Luna Mia, went in the > > water around 9am EST today! Looking forward to some fun September > > sailing on Boston Harbor. > > > > I did launch her for just a few weeks last year (I bought her last > spring) > > but never really did any sailing. This year I was able to raise the > > mast and launch the boat myself for the first time! I choose a day > > to raise > the > > mast with very little wind. I used lines to help stabilize the mast > > but I still want to make a set of extenders for the forward lower shrouds. > Should > > they be 8" or a little more? > > > > The engine is still a little balky but I haven't tried changing the > > fuel filter yet. I hope that's it. I'll be interested to see how I > > like the self-tending jib. I have a new outhaul car to install and a > > new traveller (that will be a bigger project). I hope to go sailing > > Monday or Tuesday depending on the weather etc. > > > > FYI You can see downtown Boston in the background of this shot. > > > > Mark > > > > -- > > Boston, MA > > > > 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* > > 1987 Nimble 30 *For Sale* > > 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* > > -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was > > scrubbed... > > Name: 20200828_131035.jpg > > Type: image/jpeg > > Size: 533899 bytes > > Desc: not available > > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200828/05855 > 5a7/attachment.jpg > > > > From snstaum at gmail.com Fri Aug 28 19:04:34 2020 From: snstaum at gmail.com (Stephen Staum) Date: Fri, 28 Aug 2020 19:04:34 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] She floats! In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Mark, Where are you sailing out of? I have left Squantum Yacht Club last year (after 16 years) and am now at the Hingham Shipyard Marina. It?s great here. They launched me the 1st week in May & sailed into November last year! Not bad for New England. Stephen Staum s/v Carol Lee 2 Needham, MA On Fri, Aug 28, 2020 at 2:24 PM Mark Whipple wrote: > It's been a long summer for me with too many projects and no sailing. So I > > am pleased to announce that my Rhodes 22, Luna Mia, went in the water > > around 9am EST today! Looking forward to some fun September sailing on > > Boston Harbor. > > > > I did launch her for just a few weeks last year (I bought her last spring) > > but never really did any sailing. This year I was able to raise the mast > > and launch the boat myself for the first time! I choose a day to raise the > > mast with very little wind. I used lines to help stabilize the mast but I > > still want to make a set of extenders for the forward lower shrouds. Should > > they be 8" or a little more? > > > > The engine is still a little balky but I haven't tried changing the fuel > > filter yet. I hope that's it. I'll be interested to see how I like the > > self-tending jib. I have a new outhaul car to install and a new traveller > > (that will be a bigger project). I hope to go sailing Monday or Tuesday > > depending on the weather etc. > > > > FYI You can see downtown Boston in the background of this shot. > > > > Mark > > > > -- > > Boston, MA > > > > 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* > > 1987 Nimble 30 *For Sale* > > 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* > > -------------- next part -------------- > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > Name: 20200828_131035.jpg > > Type: image/jpeg > > Size: 533899 bytes > > Desc: not available > > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200828/058555a7/attachment.jpg > > > > -- Stephen Staum Pariser Industries, Inc. From mark at whipplefamily.com Fri Aug 28 19:43:44 2020 From: mark at whipplefamily.com (Mark Whipple) Date: Fri, 28 Aug 2020 19:43:44 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] She floats! In-Reply-To: <1E636A21-0EDF-4574-AD5F-B5DA95E5D63B@sunnybeeches.com> References: <1E636A21-0EDF-4574-AD5F-B5DA95E5D63B@sunnybeeches.com> Message-ID: Hi Peter, I wondered when someone would notice the bowsprit. It didn't take long! The boat came with some sort of light-air sail on its own furler. The sail was designed to be attached to the sprit at the bottom and the green halyard at the top. I haven't attempted to rig it yet, in part because the bowsprit used to be longer. As I was moving the boat around the boatyard on the trailer last year I caught the halyard on the anchor roller of another boat and snapped off the front of the bowsprit. Fixing that will likely be a job for the winter or next season. Mark On Fri, Aug 28, 2020 at 3:04 PM Peter Nyberg wrote: > Mark, > > Many unusual features on your boat, as you?ve mentioned. > > Is the bow-sprit for a spinnaker? > > Peter Nyberg > Coventry, CT > s/v Silverheels (1988/2016) > > > On Aug 28, 2020, at 2:23 PM, Mark Whipple > wrote: > > > > It's been a long summer for me with too many projects and no sailing. So > I > > am pleased to announce that my Rhodes 22, Luna Mia, went in the water > > around 9am EST today! Looking forward to some fun September sailing on > > Boston Harbor. > > > > I did launch her for just a few weeks last year (I bought her last > spring) > > but never really did any sailing. This year I was able to raise the mast > > and launch the boat myself for the first time! I choose a day to raise > the > > mast with very little wind. I used lines to help stabilize the mast but I > > still want to make a set of extenders for the forward lower shrouds. > Should > > they be 8" or a little more? > > > > The engine is still a little balky but I haven't tried changing the fuel > > filter yet. I hope that's it. I'll be interested to see how I like the > > self-tending jib. I have a new outhaul car to install and a new traveller > > (that will be a bigger project). I hope to go sailing Monday or Tuesday > > depending on the weather etc. > > > > FYI You can see downtown Boston in the background of this shot. > > > > Mark > > > > -- > > Boston, MA > > > > 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* > > 1987 Nimble 30 *For Sale* > > 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* > > -------------- next part -------------- > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > Name: 20200828_131035.jpg > > Type: image/jpeg > > Size: 533899 bytes > > Desc: not available > > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200828/058555a7/attachment.jpg > > > > From mark at whipplefamily.com Fri Aug 28 19:48:06 2020 From: mark at whipplefamily.com (Mark Whipple) Date: Fri, 28 Aug 2020 19:48:06 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] She floats! In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi Alex, My response to Peter explains the purpose of the (shortened) bowsprit. I have a Yamaha (Parsun) 15hp Saildrive. When I try to accelerate, the engine tends to bog or even stall. Eventually it comes up to speed. My first thought was the carburetor so after disassembling it I then replaced it last year. It seemed to help but not this year. I wanted to replace the fuel filter but I can't find my small filter wrench so I have to pick up another. I'm also not sure the vent on the gas tank is letting in adequate air, but I'm going to take it one step at a time. Thanks, Mark On Fri, Aug 28, 2020 at 3:12 PM Alexis Seigneurin < alexis.seigneurin at gmail.com> wrote: > Congrats! Nice looking boat indeed. I am a bit puzzled by this appendix at > the bow. I guess that?s the self tending jib. I?ll have to look up how that > works. > > Speaking of engine and fuel filter, my engine was cutting off at idle > speed so I went through a few cleaning operations: I rebuilt the carburetor > and replaced the fuel filter. Turns out the air intake of the carburetor > was the cause of the engine flooding. Now I know... > > Alexis > > ________________________________ > From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of > Lowe, Rob > Sent: Friday, August 28, 2020 3:06:22 PM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] She floats! > > Mark, > Congratulations. Nice looking boat. You've definitely got a one of a > kind boat in the fleet. Wheel steering and self-tending jib? Bow pulpit? > Can't say we've seen the self-tending jib and pulpit. Someone has done > some work on her. - rob > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of > Mark Whipple > Sent: Friday, August 28, 2020 2:24 PM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: [Rhodes22-list] She floats! > > It's been a long summer for me with too many projects and no sailing. So I > am pleased to announce that my Rhodes 22, Luna Mia, went in the water > around 9am EST today! Looking forward to some fun September sailing on > Boston Harbor. > > I did launch her for just a few weeks last year (I bought her last spring) > but never really did any sailing. This year I was able to raise the mast > and launch the boat myself for the first time! I choose a day to raise the > mast with very little wind. I used lines to help stabilize the mast but I > still want to make a set of extenders for the forward lower shrouds. Should > they be 8" or a little more? > > The engine is still a little balky but I haven't tried changing the fuel > filter yet. I hope that's it. I'll be interested to see how I like the > self-tending jib. I have a new outhaul car to install and a new traveller > (that will be a bigger project). I hope to go sailing Monday or Tuesday > depending on the weather etc. > > FYI You can see downtown Boston in the background of this shot. > > Mark > > -- > Boston, MA > > 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* > 1987 Nimble 30 *For Sale* > 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: 20200828_131035.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 533899 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200828/058555a7/attachment.jpg > > > From mark at whipplefamily.com Fri Aug 28 19:53:15 2020 From: mark at whipplefamily.com (Mark Whipple) Date: Fri, 28 Aug 2020 19:53:15 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] She floats! In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi Reuben, Based on a quick email exchange with Stan, I believe all the bells and whistles on my boat were installed by a previous owner, although not the one who sold me the boat. Stan alluded to my boat being hoisted with a helicopter but I've never received the details. I'd love to hear your thoughts on the Hoyt boom, especially your experience with the Harbor 20. I'm open to new technology if it provides a benefit, but I'm skeptical about the self-tending jib. It takes up a lot of space on the bow and doesn't allow you to fly an overlapping genoa. I'll give a trial over the next month or so and see what I think. The bases of both the Hoyt boom and the wheel pedestal need painting, so I suspect both will come off this winter and we'll see if I reinstall either of them. Thanks, Mark On Fri, Aug 28, 2020 at 3:17 PM Reuben Mezrich wrote: > That?s a Hoyt boom at the bow that has some nice features (including > self-vanging to keep the foot of the sail down). I had one on a previous > Harbor 20 (made by Shock) and for the staysail on the Island Packet that > I?ve just sold). > Mark: do you know if that was installed by Stan or by the previous owner? > ?Reuben > (Waiting on a recycle Rhodes 22) > > Sent from my iPad > > > On Aug 28, 2020, at 3:12 PM, Alexis Seigneurin < > alexis.seigneurin at gmail.com> wrote: > > > > ?Congrats! Nice looking boat indeed. I am a bit puzzled by this appendix > at the bow. I guess that?s the self tending jib. I?ll have to look up how > that works. > > > > Speaking of engine and fuel filter, my engine was cutting off at idle > speed so I went through a few cleaning operations: I rebuilt the carburetor > and replaced the fuel filter. Turns out the air intake of the carburetor > was the cause of the engine flooding. Now I know... > > > > Alexis > > > > ________________________________ > > From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of > Lowe, Rob > > Sent: Friday, August 28, 2020 3:06:22 PM > > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] She floats! > > > > Mark, > > Congratulations. Nice looking boat. You've definitely got a one of a > kind boat in the fleet. Wheel steering and self-tending jib? Bow pulpit? > Can't say we've seen the self-tending jib and pulpit. Someone has done > some work on her. - rob > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of > Mark Whipple > > Sent: Friday, August 28, 2020 2:24 PM > > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > > Subject: [Rhodes22-list] She floats! > > > > It's been a long summer for me with too many projects and no sailing. So > I am pleased to announce that my Rhodes 22, Luna Mia, went in the water > around 9am EST today! Looking forward to some fun September sailing on > Boston Harbor. > > > > I did launch her for just a few weeks last year (I bought her last > spring) but never really did any sailing. This year I was able to raise the > mast and launch the boat myself for the first time! I choose a day to raise > the mast with very little wind. I used lines to help stabilize the mast but > I still want to make a set of extenders for the forward lower shrouds. > Should they be 8" or a little more? > > > > The engine is still a little balky but I haven't tried changing the fuel > filter yet. I hope that's it. I'll be interested to see how I like the > self-tending jib. I have a new outhaul car to install and a new traveller > (that will be a bigger project). I hope to go sailing Monday or Tuesday > depending on the weather etc. > > > > FYI You can see downtown Boston in the background of this shot. > > > > Mark > > > > -- > > Boston, MA > > > > 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* > > 1987 Nimble 30 *For Sale* > > 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* > > -------------- next part -------------- > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > Name: 20200828_131035.jpg > > Type: image/jpeg > > Size: 533899 bytes > > Desc: not available > > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200828/058555a7/attachment.jpg > > > From mark at whipplefamily.com Fri Aug 28 19:56:50 2020 From: mark at whipplefamily.com (Mark Whipple) Date: Fri, 28 Aug 2020 19:56:50 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] She floats! In-Reply-To: References: <1E636A21-0EDF-4574-AD5F-B5DA95E5D63B@sunnybeeches.com> Message-ID: Hi Jesse, I described the green halyard and bowsprit in my response to Peter. I've been looking at that mainsail since I put up the mast. It doesn't look quite right to me, either. I wonder if there was a problem with my outhaul set up, and if the new outhaul car I have will address the issue. I'm not exactly sure how to rig the new outhaul car. I know there was a thread about outhauls recently so I'll try to track that down. I might just roll out the main and roll it back in to see if anything changes. Mark On Fri, Aug 28, 2020 at 3:51 PM Jesse Shumaker < jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com> wrote: > Congrats Mark! Even amongst the R22 crowd your boat stands out with some > interesting features. > > I was surprised to see the taper in your mainsail - it appears the foot > rises as it goes aft. That seems to be common on larger boats with IMF, > but the typical R22 has a level foot on the main. > > To build on Peter's comment, is the green line hooked to the bow pulpit a > spinnaker halyard? > > On Fri, Aug 28, 2020 at 2:05 PM Peter Nyberg > wrote: > > > Mark, > > > > Many unusual features on your boat, as you?ve mentioned. > > > > Is the bow-sprit for a spinnaker? > > > > Peter Nyberg > > Coventry, CT > > s/v Silverheels (1988/2016) > > > > > On Aug 28, 2020, at 2:23 PM, Mark Whipple > > wrote: > > > > > > It's been a long summer for me with too many projects and no sailing. > So > > I > > > am pleased to announce that my Rhodes 22, Luna Mia, went in the water > > > around 9am EST today! Looking forward to some fun September sailing on > > > Boston Harbor. > > > > > > I did launch her for just a few weeks last year (I bought her last > > spring) > > > but never really did any sailing. This year I was able to raise the > mast > > > and launch the boat myself for the first time! I choose a day to raise > > the > > > mast with very little wind. I used lines to help stabilize the mast > but I > > > still want to make a set of extenders for the forward lower shrouds. > > Should > > > they be 8" or a little more? > > > > > > The engine is still a little balky but I haven't tried changing the > fuel > > > filter yet. I hope that's it. I'll be interested to see how I like the > > > self-tending jib. I have a new outhaul car to install and a new > traveller > > > (that will be a bigger project). I hope to go sailing Monday or Tuesday > > > depending on the weather etc. > > > > > > FYI You can see downtown Boston in the background of this shot. > > > > > > Mark > > > > > > -- > > > Boston, MA > > > > > > 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* > > > 1987 Nimble 30 *For Sale* > > > 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > > Name: 20200828_131035.jpg > > > Type: image/jpeg > > > Size: 533899 bytes > > > Desc: not available > > > URL: < > > > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200828/058555a7/attachment.jpg > > > > > > > > From mark at whipplefamily.com Fri Aug 28 20:01:13 2020 From: mark at whipplefamily.com (Mark Whipple) Date: Fri, 28 Aug 2020 20:01:13 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] She floats! In-Reply-To: References: <1E636A21-0EDF-4574-AD5F-B5DA95E5D63B@sunnybeeches.com> Message-ID: Thanks, John! It probably doesn't show in that picture, but I'm pretty sure I'll need a topside paint job in the future. Lots of scratches. But I'm mostly happy with the look of the boat. The pedestal is an Edson. Stay tuned - if you're interested, it may go up for sale over the winter. Like the self-tending jib I'm not sure I like the wheel. I've always had a tiller, and it's so much easier to put an autopilot on a tiller than on a wheel. I actually have a bigger wheel that came with the boat that I'm going to try. Thanks, Mark On Fri, Aug 28, 2020 at 5:55 PM John Keyser wrote: > Beautiful boat, Mark! Do you know who is the manufacturer of the pedestal > steering system in your boat? > > John Keyser > Philadelphia, PA > 1980 R-22 "Deci-Belle" > > ________________________________ > From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of > Lowe, Rob > Sent: Friday, August 28, 2020 4:22 PM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] She floats! > > Jesse, > I noticed the main too. As you suggest, the foot of the sail should furl > up level with the boom. - rob > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of > Jesse Shumaker > Sent: Friday, August 28, 2020 3:52 PM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] She floats! > > Congrats Mark! Even amongst the R22 crowd your boat stands out with some > interesting features. > > I was surprised to see the taper in your mainsail - it appears the foot > rises as it goes aft. That seems to be common on larger boats with IMF, > but the typical R22 has a level foot on the main. > > To build on Peter's comment, is the green line hooked to the bow pulpit a > spinnaker halyard? > > On Fri, Aug 28, 2020 at 2:05 PM Peter Nyberg > wrote: > > > Mark, > > > > Many unusual features on your boat, as you?ve mentioned. > > > > Is the bow-sprit for a spinnaker? > > > > Peter Nyberg > > Coventry, CT > > s/v Silverheels (1988/2016) > > > > > On Aug 28, 2020, at 2:23 PM, Mark Whipple > > wrote: > > > > > > It's been a long summer for me with too many projects and no > > > sailing. So > > I > > > am pleased to announce that my Rhodes 22, Luna Mia, went in the > > > water around 9am EST today! Looking forward to some fun September > > > sailing on Boston Harbor. > > > > > > I did launch her for just a few weeks last year (I bought her last > > spring) > > > but never really did any sailing. This year I was able to raise the > > > mast and launch the boat myself for the first time! I choose a day > > > to raise > > the > > > mast with very little wind. I used lines to help stabilize the mast > > > but I still want to make a set of extenders for the forward lower > shrouds. > > Should > > > they be 8" or a little more? > > > > > > The engine is still a little balky but I haven't tried changing the > > > fuel filter yet. I hope that's it. I'll be interested to see how I > > > like the self-tending jib. I have a new outhaul car to install and a > > > new traveller (that will be a bigger project). I hope to go sailing > > > Monday or Tuesday depending on the weather etc. > > > > > > FYI You can see downtown Boston in the background of this shot. > > > > > > Mark > > > > > > -- > > > Boston, MA > > > > > > 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* > > > 1987 Nimble 30 *For Sale* > > > 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* > > > -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was > > > scrubbed... > > > Name: 20200828_131035.jpg > > > Type: image/jpeg > > > Size: 533899 bytes > > > Desc: not available > > > URL: < > > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200828/05855 > > 5a7/attachment.jpg > > > > > > > > From mark at whipplefamily.com Fri Aug 28 20:15:42 2020 From: mark at whipplefamily.com (Mark Whipple) Date: Fri, 28 Aug 2020 20:15:42 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] She floats! In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi Stephen, I belong to the Savin Hill Yacht Club near UMass in Dorchester. I have a mooring there and can store the boat at the club if needed. They also have a pretty good launch ramp for trailered boats. We should sail together some day! It will be interesting to see how this boat handles the Hull Gut. Thanks, Mark On Fri, Aug 28, 2020 at 7:04 PM Stephen Staum wrote: > Mark, > > Where are you sailing out of? I have left Squantum Yacht Club last year > (after 16 years) and am now at the Hingham Shipyard Marina. It?s great > here. They launched me the 1st week in May & sailed into November last > year! Not bad for New England. > > Stephen Staum > s/v Carol Lee 2 > Needham, MA > > On Fri, Aug 28, 2020 at 2:24 PM Mark Whipple > wrote: > > > It's been a long summer for me with too many projects and no sailing. So > I > > > > am pleased to announce that my Rhodes 22, Luna Mia, went in the water > > > > around 9am EST today! Looking forward to some fun September sailing on > > > > Boston Harbor. > > > > > > > > I did launch her for just a few weeks last year (I bought her last > spring) > > > > but never really did any sailing. This year I was able to raise the mast > > > > and launch the boat myself for the first time! I choose a day to raise > the > > > > mast with very little wind. I used lines to help stabilize the mast but I > > > > still want to make a set of extenders for the forward lower shrouds. > Should > > > > they be 8" or a little more? > > > > > > > > The engine is still a little balky but I haven't tried changing the fuel > > > > filter yet. I hope that's it. I'll be interested to see how I like the > > > > self-tending jib. I have a new outhaul car to install and a new traveller > > > > (that will be a bigger project). I hope to go sailing Monday or Tuesday > > > > depending on the weather etc. > > > > > > > > FYI You can see downtown Boston in the background of this shot. > > > > > > > > Mark > > > > > > > > -- > > > > Boston, MA > > > > > > > > 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* > > > > 1987 Nimble 30 *For Sale* > > > > 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > > > Name: 20200828_131035.jpg > > > > Type: image/jpeg > > > > Size: 533899 bytes > > > > Desc: not available > > > > URL: < > > > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200828/058555a7/attachment.jpg > > > > > > > -- > Stephen Staum > Pariser Industries, Inc. > From mark at whipplefamily.com Fri Aug 28 20:18:07 2020 From: mark at whipplefamily.com (Mark Whipple) Date: Fri, 28 Aug 2020 20:18:07 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] She floats! In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi Rob, Thanks. I'm not sure I'm going to keep all the bells and whistles, but we'll see. At a minimum the saildrive will stay until I can't fix it anymore. I may remove the self-tending jib and the wheel this winter since they need painting. Whether they get reinstalled remains to be seen. Thanks, Mark On Fri, Aug 28, 2020 at 3:06 PM Lowe, Rob wrote: > Mark, > Congratulations. Nice looking boat. You've definitely got a one of a > kind boat in the fleet. Wheel steering and self-tending jib? Bow pulpit? > Can't say we've seen the self-tending jib and pulpit. Someone has done > some work on her. - rob > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of > Mark Whipple > Sent: Friday, August 28, 2020 2:24 PM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: [Rhodes22-list] She floats! > > It's been a long summer for me with too many projects and no sailing. So I > am pleased to announce that my Rhodes 22, Luna Mia, went in the water > around 9am EST today! Looking forward to some fun September sailing on > Boston Harbor. > > I did launch her for just a few weeks last year (I bought her last spring) > but never really did any sailing. This year I was able to raise the mast > and launch the boat myself for the first time! I choose a day to raise the > mast with very little wind. I used lines to help stabilize the mast but I > still want to make a set of extenders for the forward lower shrouds. Should > they be 8" or a little more? > > The engine is still a little balky but I haven't tried changing the fuel > filter yet. I hope that's it. I'll be interested to see how I like the > self-tending jib. I have a new outhaul car to install and a new traveller > (that will be a bigger project). I hope to go sailing Monday or Tuesday > depending on the weather etc. > > FYI You can see downtown Boston in the background of this shot. > > Mark > > -- > Boston, MA > > 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* > 1987 Nimble 30 *For Sale* > 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: 20200828_131035.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 533899 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200828/058555a7/attachment.jpg > > > From mark at whipplefamily.com Fri Aug 28 20:21:48 2020 From: mark at whipplefamily.com (Mark Whipple) Date: Fri, 28 Aug 2020 20:21:48 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Saildrive In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi Stephen, Yes, that's my boat. Was the club where you saw it really in Everett? I can't find any boat clubs in Everett. I'd like to know more about the history of the boat. The guy I bought it from acquired it from a boat club and then moored it in Quincy Bay, so it's certainly the same boat. I'll know better how it sails after next month. Thanks, Mark On Fri, Aug 28, 2020 at 4:00 PM Stephen Staum wrote: > Mark, > > Do you also have wheel steering & a self tending jib? Is so, I know the > boat. I looked at it a number of years ago when it was being sold by a club > in Everett, MA & then it turned up a few years later on a mooring next to > me at Squantum Yacht Club in Quincy. Are you floating? I never got to sail > it & am curious how it handles. > > Stephen Staum > s/v Carol Lee 2 > Needham, MA > > On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 10:44 AM Mark Whipple > wrote: > > > Hi Richard, > > > > > > > > I purchased my 2000 R22 last year and it came with a 15hp Yamaha > saildrive. > > > > I haven't had a chance to use the boat much yet, but it seems like it > will > > > > address many of the issues with an outboard on the transom > > > > (raising/lowering, keeping the drive underwater). > > > > > > > > Unfortunately the company that made this saildrive is essentially out of > > > > business. I am concerned about what I'll have to do once this saildrive > > > > needs a part I can't get or needs a costly repair. I'm not sure I like > the > > > > alternative solutions that involve a motor on the transom. Maybe I need > to > > > > start saving my pennies toward a replacement. Regarding that option, the > > > > saildrives I've seen tend to have larger engine than mine - often a > diesel. > > > > Mine is essentially a Yamaha (made by Parsun) outboard head so it's not > > > > very tall. Maybe I'll be lucky and not have to solve the replacement > > > > problem. > > > > > > > > Mark > > > > > > > > -- > > > > Boston, MA > > > > > > > > 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* > > > > 1987 Nimble 30 *For Sale* > > > > 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* > > > > > > > > On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 10:14 AM Richard Stott < > ric at stottarchitecture.com> > > > > wrote: > > > > > > > > > Cary > > > > > My ?84 GB mount broke on spring launch the year and my Yamaha 8 went in > > > > > the drink. > > > > > I purchased a motor mount from West marine immediately so I could > > continue > > > > > to use the boat with a spare motor I happened to have on hand. > > > > > Its a stinky smoky ?99 Merc 2 stroke, but it always starts and runs > when > > > > > it need it - well almost always. > > > > > I talked it over on the list and discussed with Mike Riter a plan to > > > > > convert the GB mount to be equipped with a threaded gear (his sketch) > so > > > > > that the mont can be moved with a manual crank or an electric motor. > > > > > This would be huge advantage over the 6/1 tackle it came equipped with. > > > > > I?ve been enjoying the boat too much to stop and refine that design of > > > > > Mikes - that?s a winter project. > > > > > > > > > > In any case the parallelogram type mount works fairly well, it has pros > > > > > and cons. > > > > > One of the biggest cons is that the moro in the down position is father > > > > > aft of the transom and will cavitate and lose thrust in larger waves, > > > > > especially with weight on the bow. > > > > > I will like the GB system (modified) over the alternative, but the West > > > > > marine mount was easy to install and serves the immediate need. > > > > > (What I really want is an electric, steerable, remote controlled, 20 > hp > > > > > sail drive mounted right behind the keel trunk.) > > > > > It?s doable for approximately one tone of money. > > > > > > > > > > One way I use the boat is unusual. > > > > > I moore my boat 50 yards off shore. > > > > > I use a stand-up paddle board for a tender because it's light and easy > to > > > > > cary to the shore. > > > > > I then use the motor only, with the rudder up, to back the boat on to > the > > > > > beach to pick up provisions and of course my wife, who is not one to > > > > > paddle out to the boat. > > > > > Depending on the tide and the slope of the beach, I can sometimes put > the > > > > > stern right on the beach. > > > > > An opening in the stern rail, like the more modern R22s would be a huge > > > > > asset for picking up passengers from the beach. (next year) > > > > > Ric > > > > > sv Dadventure > > > > > stay tuned for ?motor mount mod? updates > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP > > > > > www.stottarchitecture.com > > > > > Office 631-283-1777 > > > > > Cell 516-965-3164 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > On Aug 26, 2020, at 9:19 AM, Cary Tolbert > > wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > Preview attachment 20200825_174517.jpg > > > > > > 20200825_174517.jpg > > > > > > 4 MB > > > > > > < > > > > > > > > https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=be1ab8c6c5&attid=0.1&permmsgid=msg-a:r-7374969717110164997&th=1742adb6a4937cb8&view=att&disp=safe&realattid=1742adb12d8c3f23bf81 > > > > > >Once > > > > > > again HELP. Wed. the 25th I was motoring from my slip out on to the > > lake > > > > > > and kerplunk. The motor raising part of the boat fell off with the > > motor > > > > > > attached and still running. I also had it attached with a s/s chain. > > > > > Lucky > > > > > > or not.? ? ? Stan no longer makes the parts for an 86. He said he has > > > > > long > > > > > > moved to newer and hopefully better designs. It seems the starboard > > > > > > material used to let the motor slide in the rails failed. My question > > is > > > > > > should I attempt to repair with parts of better materials or buy a > > > > > > gerneric system for raising and lowering one's motor . Say something > > > > > that > > > > > > would fit a Catalina 22? Looking for advice from the centuries of > > > > > > experience on the list > > > > > > Cary Tolbert S/V Whisper '86 > > > > > > Radford, VA > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > -- > > > > Boston, MA > > > > > > > > 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* > > > > 1986 Nimble 30 *For Sale* > > > > 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* > > > > -- > Stephen Staum > Pariser Industries, Inc. > From peter at sunnybeeches.com Fri Aug 28 21:43:05 2020 From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg) Date: Fri, 28 Aug 2020 21:43:05 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] She floats! In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Mark, I?m far from an expert on such things, but my guess is that a jib small enough to be self tending is too small to be a good general purpose headsail for the boat. Let us know what you think after you?ve had a chance to sail her some. ?Peter > On Aug 28, 2020, at 8:18 PM, Mark Whipple wrote: > > Hi Rob, > > Thanks. I'm not sure I'm going to keep all the bells and whistles, but > we'll see. At a minimum the saildrive will stay until I can't fix it > anymore. I may remove the self-tending jib and the wheel this winter since > they need painting. Whether they get reinstalled remains to be seen. > > Thanks, > Mark > From tom.vanheule at intrinsicprograms.com Fri Aug 28 21:47:27 2020 From: tom.vanheule at intrinsicprograms.com (Tom Van Heule) Date: Fri, 28 Aug 2020 20:47:27 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] She floats! In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I agree with Peter, my clew is often pulled back to the aft cabin bulkhead, also gets hung up on the upper eyelet of the life rail.... I can't see it, on paper, working with the 175%? Then again I sail in ? to ?? winds so far... But she is so much more stable heeled over. On Fri, Aug 28, 2020, 8:43 PM Peter Nyberg wrote: > Mark, > > I?m far from an expert on such things, but my guess is that a jib small > enough to be self tending is too small to be a good general purpose > headsail for the boat. > > Let us know what you think after you?ve had a chance to sail her some. > > ?Peter > > > On Aug 28, 2020, at 8:18 PM, Mark Whipple > wrote: > > > > Hi Rob, > > > > Thanks. I'm not sure I'm going to keep all the bells and whistles, but > > we'll see. At a minimum the saildrive will stay until I can't fix it > > anymore. I may remove the self-tending jib and the wheel this winter > since > > they need painting. Whether they get reinstalled remains to be seen. > > > > Thanks, > > Mark > > > > From shawn.sustain at gmail.com Sat Aug 29 00:06:48 2020 From: shawn.sustain at gmail.com (Shawn Boles) Date: Fri, 28 Aug 2020 21:06:48 -0700 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] She floats! In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Tom - you say: 'Then again I sail in ? to ?? winds so far... But she is so much more stable heeled over.' I thought a Rhodes sailed best flat. Say more, please. Cheers, Shawn s/v Sweet Baboo On Fri, Aug 28, 2020, 6:47 PM Tom Van Heule < tom.vanheule at intrinsicprograms.com> wrote: > I agree with Peter, my clew is often pulled back to the aft cabin bulkhead, > also gets hung up on the upper eyelet of the life rail.... I can't see it, > on paper, working with the 175%? > > Then again I sail in ? to ?? winds so far... But she is so much more stable > heeled over. > > On Fri, Aug 28, 2020, 8:43 PM Peter Nyberg wrote: > > > Mark, > > > > I?m far from an expert on such things, but my guess is that a jib small > > enough to be self tending is too small to be a good general purpose > > headsail for the boat. > > > > Let us know what you think after you?ve had a chance to sail her some. > > > > ?Peter > > > > > On Aug 28, 2020, at 8:18 PM, Mark Whipple > > wrote: > > > > > > Hi Rob, > > > > > > Thanks. I'm not sure I'm going to keep all the bells and whistles, but > > > we'll see. At a minimum the saildrive will stay until I can't fix it > > > anymore. I may remove the self-tending jib and the wheel this winter > > since > > > they need painting. Whether they get reinstalled remains to be seen. > > > > > > Thanks, > > > Mark > > > > > > > > From allynb at adsne.com Sat Aug 29 00:07:34 2020 From: allynb at adsne.com (Allyn Baskerville) Date: Sat, 29 Aug 2020 04:07:34 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Whisker pole ring Message-ID: I?ve been racing my Rhodes this summer without a whisker pole, and we?ve had a lot of light wind that won?t carry the headsail. I just purchased the whisker pole but need a ring to attack it to. Does the Ronstan RF41 have the right curvature? I read the previous discussions on the whisker pole, t-tracks, etc, but something simple will like this will work. We have a long distance midnight race coming up at our club, and I?d like to get something functional. Thanks Sent from my iPhone From reuben.mezrich at gmail.com Sat Aug 29 06:58:19 2020 From: reuben.mezrich at gmail.com (Reuben Mezrich) Date: Sat, 29 Aug 2020 06:58:19 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] She floats! In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: As I said before I had a Harbor 20 that was designed with a Hoyt boom (and then Schock - a company known for racing sailboats) extended the design to their Harbor 26 and Harbor 33). The Alarion 26, then 28 and 30 purchased the design of their boat from Gerry Hoyt who had invented it in 1994 (you can read the history here ). All of these boats are meant to be daysailers and from my experience succeed in achieving their goal nicely.The Rhodes 22 with IMF should be an even better daysailer, which I hope to find out for myself sometime soon. The Harbor 20 could achieve hull speed in 15 knot winds but to be honest I rarely sailed that fast. On my Island Packet in winds over 15 knots I would often furl the jib and sail on just the staysail and main, enjoying the ability to tack by just turning the wheel. The Harbor 20 had a tiller but the same ease of tacking. I know Stan has some thoughts (and some unique designs) for a self tacking jib and perhaps he'll jump in. --Reuben Reuben Mezrich Pelican Cove in Sarasota and Inner Harbor in Baltimore Cell: 410-499-8922 On Fri, Aug 28, 2020 at 9:43 PM Peter Nyberg wrote: > Mark, > > I?m far from an expert on such things, but my guess is that a jib small > enough to be self tending is too small to be a good general purpose > headsail for the boat. > > Let us know what you think after you?ve had a chance to sail her some. > > ?Peter > > > On Aug 28, 2020, at 8:18 PM, Mark Whipple > wrote: > > > > Hi Rob, > > > > Thanks. I'm not sure I'm going to keep all the bells and whistles, but > > we'll see. At a minimum the saildrive will stay until I can't fix it > > anymore. I may remove the self-tending jib and the wheel this winter > since > > they need painting. Whether they get reinstalled remains to be seen. > > > > Thanks, > > Mark > > > > From tom.vanheule at intrinsicprograms.com Sat Aug 29 08:16:39 2020 From: tom.vanheule at intrinsicprograms.com (Tom Van Heule) Date: Sat, 29 Aug 2020 07:16:39 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] She floats! In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Shawn, In my limited experience with her, maybe 12 hours of sailing since I got her.... She is happier cutting through than swelling. I am probably using verbiage akin to a HiFi review here. I found trying to keep her moving and flat made things very busy for the crew, and listy, if we just held on and let her get settled on the course it was much less bumpy. Does that translate, or was this observation circumstantial to the lake? Best, Tom On Fri, Aug 28, 2020, 11:07 PM Shawn Boles wrote: > Tom - you say: > > 'Then again I sail in ? to ?? winds so far... But she is so much more > stable > heeled over.' > > > I thought a Rhodes sailed best flat. Say more, please. > > Cheers, > Shawn > s/v Sweet Baboo > On Fri, Aug 28, 2020, 6:47 PM Tom Van Heule < > tom.vanheule at intrinsicprograms.com> wrote: > > > I agree with Peter, my clew is often pulled back to the aft cabin > bulkhead, > > also gets hung up on the upper eyelet of the life rail.... I can't see > it, > > on paper, working with the 175%? > > > > Then again I sail in ? to ?? winds so far... But she is so much more > stable > > heeled over. > > > > On Fri, Aug 28, 2020, 8:43 PM Peter Nyberg > wrote: > > > > > Mark, > > > > > > I?m far from an expert on such things, but my guess is that a jib > small > > > enough to be self tending is too small to be a good general purpose > > > headsail for the boat. > > > > > > Let us know what you think after you?ve had a chance to sail her some. > > > > > > ?Peter > > > > > > > On Aug 28, 2020, at 8:18 PM, Mark Whipple > > > wrote: > > > > > > > > Hi Rob, > > > > > > > > Thanks. I'm not sure I'm going to keep all the bells and whistles, > but > > > > we'll see. At a minimum the saildrive will stay until I can't fix it > > > > anymore. I may remove the self-tending jib and the wheel this winter > > > since > > > > they need painting. Whether they get reinstalled remains to be seen. > > > > > > > > Thanks, > > > > Mark > > > > > > > > > > > > > From jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com Sat Aug 29 10:18:39 2020 From: jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com (JeffSmith) Date: Sat, 29 Aug 2020 07:18:39 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Split Ring Alternative? Message-ID: <1598710719491-0.post@n5.nabble.com> I hate using split rings or "safety pins" to secure clevis pins! Has anyone had real life experience with: SUNCOR QUICK LOCK PIN 1/4" X 1/2" 316 S/S SCR-S0375-0715 QUICK LOCK PIN 1/4" X 1/2" 316 S/S 173204 In Stock 15.29 These are from Hamilton Marine. WLL shear load is 4,600 lbs, which should be more than adequate and as long as the clevis pin holder hole is not enlarged, should be secure. I figure that with the redundancy of stays on the R22, one failure would not be catastrophic. Pricey for 10 of them, but worth it in frustration abatement. ----- Jeff Smith 2009 R22 #101 RADIANT Atlantic Highlands Municpal Harbor Atlantic Highlands, NJ -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From peter at sunnybeeches.com Sat Aug 29 11:01:40 2020 From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg) Date: Sat, 29 Aug 2020 11:01:40 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Split Ring Alternative? In-Reply-To: <1598710719491-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1598710719491-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: Jeff, On my boat, the 1/2? long pin would be too short. Maybe it could be made to work if the sides of the fork-like fitting on the bottom of the turnbuckle were squeezed together in a vice or something. The next size up is 1? long, which might be too long. You definitely want something low profile for the upper and forward-lower shrouds, otherwise the the jib sheets tend to get snagged. I had been using Jurgan tool free clevis pins (which apparently are no longer available) for my shrouds, but due to the sheet snagging issue, have gone back to regular clevis pins with pig tail rings. If I was only raising the mast once a year, I?d use split rings or even cotter pins for peace of mind. Pig tail rings have been known to occasionally work themselves loose, but I keep spares on board, and as you note on a Rhodes 22 the loss of any one stay would not result in disaster. Peter Nyberg Coventry, CT s/v Silverheels (1988/2016) > On Aug 29, 2020, at 10:18 AM, JeffSmith wrote: > > I hate using split rings or "safety pins" to secure clevis pins! > Has anyone had real life experience with: > > SUNCOR QUICK LOCK PIN 1/4" X 1/2" 316 S/S SCR-S0375-0715 QUICK LOCK PIN > 1/4" X 1/2" 316 S/S 173204 In Stock 15.29 > > These are from Hamilton Marine. > WLL shear load is 4,600 lbs, which should be more than adequate and as long > as the clevis pin holder hole is not enlarged, should be secure. > > I figure that with the redundancy of stays on the R22, one failure would not > be catastrophic. > Pricey for 10 of them, but worth it in frustration abatement. > > > > > ----- > Jeff Smith > 2009 R22 #101 RADIANT > Atlantic Highlands Municpal Harbor > Atlantic Highlands, NJ > > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From mark at whipplefamily.com Sat Aug 29 11:02:47 2020 From: mark at whipplefamily.com (Mark Whipple) Date: Sat, 29 Aug 2020 11:02:47 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] She floats! In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Peter, I have to admit that is also my expectation. I'm pretty sure the boat came with a 135% genoa as well so making the switch would not involve buying a new sail. All the deck hardware for the genny is still on the boat (with three sailboats there's a lot of sails up in my attic!). That said, since I typically sail with people who are not experienced sailors, it might be nice not to have to shift the jib sheets. We shall see. Mark On Fri, Aug 28, 2020 at 9:43 PM Peter Nyberg wrote: > Mark, > > I?m far from an expert on such things, but my guess is that a jib small > enough to be self tending is too small to be a good general purpose > headsail for the boat. > > Let us know what you think after you?ve had a chance to sail her some. > > ?Peter > > > On Aug 28, 2020, at 8:18 PM, Mark Whipple > wrote: > > > > Hi Rob, > > > > Thanks. I'm not sure I'm going to keep all the bells and whistles, but > > we'll see. At a minimum the saildrive will stay until I can't fix it > > anymore. I may remove the self-tending jib and the wheel this winter > since > > they need painting. Whether they get reinstalled remains to be seen. > > > > Thanks, > > Mark > > > > From mike at traildesign.com Sat Aug 29 12:35:35 2020 From: mike at traildesign.com (Mike Riter) Date: Sat, 29 Aug 2020 12:35:35 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Split Ring Alternative? In-Reply-To: References: <1598710719491-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: Jeff, I can't speak to the Suncor brand ball lock pins (probably better than mine), but I've been using the AVK 304 ss 1/4" x 3/4" ball lock pins on two of my inner stays for over a year now with no problems. They are showing a little surface rust on the shoulder of the thicker part of the pin, otherwise they're working perfectly. If I could remember where I bought them I would get more. The 3/4" seems to be the right length without being overly long. I can get by with the 304 stainless because my R22 is coddled and lives on it's trailer inside my shop when I'm not sailing. Mike Riter SV Emma B On Sat, Aug 29, 2020 at 11:02 AM Peter Nyberg wrote: > Jeff, > > On my boat, the 1/2? long pin would be too short. Maybe it could be made > to work if the sides of the fork-like fitting on the bottom of the > turnbuckle were squeezed together in a vice or something. The next size up > is 1? long, which might be too long. > > You definitely want something low profile for the upper and forward-lower > shrouds, otherwise the the jib sheets tend to get snagged. > > I had been using Jurgan tool free clevis pins (which apparently are no > longer available) for my shrouds, but due to the sheet snagging issue, have > gone back to regular clevis pins with pig tail rings. If I was only > raising the mast once a year, I?d use split rings or even cotter pins for > peace of mind. Pig tail rings have been known to occasionally work > themselves loose, but I keep spares on board, and as you note on a Rhodes > 22 the loss of any one stay would not result in disaster. > > Peter Nyberg > Coventry, CT > s/v Silverheels (1988/2016) > > > On Aug 29, 2020, at 10:18 AM, JeffSmith > wrote: > > > > I hate using split rings or "safety pins" to secure clevis pins! > > Has anyone had real life experience with: > > > > SUNCOR QUICK LOCK PIN 1/4" X 1/2" 316 S/S SCR-S0375-0715 > QUICK LOCK PIN > > 1/4" X 1/2" 316 S/S 173204 In Stock 15.29 > > > > These are from Hamilton Marine. > > WLL shear load is 4,600 lbs, which should be more than adequate and as > long > > as the clevis pin holder hole is not enlarged, should be secure. > > > > I figure that with the redundancy of stays on the R22, one failure would > not > > be catastrophic. > > Pricey for 10 of them, but worth it in frustration abatement. > > > > > > > > > > ----- > > Jeff Smith > > 2009 R22 #101 RADIANT > > Atlantic Highlands Municpal Harbor > > Atlantic Highlands, NJ > > > > -- > > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > > From retro53 at msn.com Sat Aug 29 13:56:34 2020 From: retro53 at msn.com (John Keyser) Date: Sat, 29 Aug 2020 17:56:34 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] She floats! In-Reply-To: References: <1E636A21-0EDF-4574-AD5F-B5DA95E5D63B@sunnybeeches.com> , Message-ID: Thanks, Mark! I once was browsing through the Edson fitment guide, and our boat wasn't listed. Guess that somebody figured a way to do it. Happy sailing. John ________________________________ From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of Mark Whipple Sent: Friday, August 28, 2020 8:01 PM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] She floats! Thanks, John! It probably doesn't show in that picture, but I'm pretty sure I'll need a topside paint job in the future. Lots of scratches. But I'm mostly happy with the look of the boat. The pedestal is an Edson. Stay tuned - if you're interested, it may go up for sale over the winter. Like the self-tending jib I'm not sure I like the wheel. I've always had a tiller, and it's so much easier to put an autopilot on a tiller than on a wheel. I actually have a bigger wheel that came with the boat that I'm going to try. Thanks, Mark On Fri, Aug 28, 2020 at 5:55 PM John Keyser wrote: > Beautiful boat, Mark! Do you know who is the manufacturer of the pedestal > steering system in your boat? > > John Keyser > Philadelphia, PA > 1980 R-22 "Deci-Belle" > > ________________________________ > From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of > Lowe, Rob > Sent: Friday, August 28, 2020 4:22 PM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] She floats! > > Jesse, > I noticed the main too. As you suggest, the foot of the sail should furl > up level with the boom. - rob > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of > Jesse Shumaker > Sent: Friday, August 28, 2020 3:52 PM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] She floats! > > Congrats Mark! Even amongst the R22 crowd your boat stands out with some > interesting features. > > I was surprised to see the taper in your mainsail - it appears the foot > rises as it goes aft. That seems to be common on larger boats with IMF, > but the typical R22 has a level foot on the main. > > To build on Peter's comment, is the green line hooked to the bow pulpit a > spinnaker halyard? > > On Fri, Aug 28, 2020 at 2:05 PM Peter Nyberg > wrote: > > > Mark, > > > > Many unusual features on your boat, as you?ve mentioned. > > > > Is the bow-sprit for a spinnaker? > > > > Peter Nyberg > > Coventry, CT > > s/v Silverheels (1988/2016) > > > > > On Aug 28, 2020, at 2:23 PM, Mark Whipple > > wrote: > > > > > > It's been a long summer for me with too many projects and no > > > sailing. So > > I > > > am pleased to announce that my Rhodes 22, Luna Mia, went in the > > > water around 9am EST today! Looking forward to some fun September > > > sailing on Boston Harbor. > > > > > > I did launch her for just a few weeks last year (I bought her last > > spring) > > > but never really did any sailing. This year I was able to raise the > > > mast and launch the boat myself for the first time! I choose a day > > > to raise > > the > > > mast with very little wind. I used lines to help stabilize the mast > > > but I still want to make a set of extenders for the forward lower > shrouds. > > Should > > > they be 8" or a little more? > > > > > > The engine is still a little balky but I haven't tried changing the > > > fuel filter yet. I hope that's it. I'll be interested to see how I > > > like the self-tending jib. I have a new outhaul car to install and a > > > new traveller (that will be a bigger project). I hope to go sailing > > > Monday or Tuesday depending on the weather etc. > > > > > > FYI You can see downtown Boston in the background of this shot. > > > > > > Mark > > > > > > -- > > > Boston, MA > > > > > > 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* > > > 1987 Nimble 30 *For Sale* > > > 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* > > > -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was > > > scrubbed... > > > Name: 20200828_131035.jpg > > > Type: image/jpeg > > > Size: 533899 bytes > > > Desc: not available > > > URL: < > > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200828/05855 > > 5a7/attachment.jpg > > > > > > > > From cp.boyce at comcast.net Sat Aug 29 23:04:54 2020 From: cp.boyce at comcast.net (Celia&Patrick Boyce) Date: Sat, 29 Aug 2020 20:04:54 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Saildrive In-Reply-To: <79117610.1.1598531837019@localhost> References: <79117610.1.1598531837019@localhost> Message-ID: <397124098.60414.1598756694567@connect.xfinity.com> More on Take Five...the Torqeedo motor is the Cruise 4.0 pod system, powered by two lithium ion batteries, for a propulsive equivalent to gasoline of 8hp. Stan mounted the two batteries in series under the starboard cockpit seat. This cuts down on storage, but better I think than having to store cans of gasoline. Also the weight of the two batteries (about 120 pounds) causes the boat to list to starboard unless you counterbalance it on the port side. I used four 25 pound barbell weights for that, since they are compact space wise. We keep her in the watet at Swantown Marina in Olympia. The well in the lazarette did not have anti fouling paint at first and a year later it was clogged with critters. Almost could not lower the pod. But after having that painted just need to remember to lift the pod out of the water after use, which also saves on anode wear. Range fully charged is about 25 miles at 3 knots unless fighting the tide. We also have a smaller Torqeedo Travel 1003 with extra batteries that, though a bit underpowered for this boat, can still move her another 20 miles using all the batteries if necessary. In Puget Sound we're never more than 8 or 10 miles from a marina with dock power. Will post photos of the motor if you want. Patrick Boyce > On 08/27/2020 5:37 AM cp.boyce at comcast.net wrote: > > > That's our baby, Take Five. > We are here on the West Coast only not Seattle, Olympia. It works beautifully, but we haven't, for various reasons, taken her out much at all in the last 18 months or so. She's getting her bottom painted as we speak. I hope we can get out more this tear as it may be the last we have her. > > Celia Boyce > > > Sent from Xfinity Connect Application > > -----Original Message----- > > From: tom.vanheule at intrinsicprograms.com > To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org > Sent: 2020-08-26 2:09:06 PM > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Saildrive > > That's it! Anyone know how it's working over the years, as few they have > been so far? I dearly want to get the 8hp merc4 stroke off the transom. > > On Wed, Aug 26, 2020, 3:59 PM Weiss, Robert L wrote: > > > Three years ago I went out and did some volunteer work for Stan and also > > helped out at the boat show. I worked on that boat with the electric motor > > in the lazarette. He built a well in the lazarette and the motor was on a > > lift system that pulled it up into the well when not used so less drag. It > > was to be connected wirelessly to a throttle mounted on the gunnel. > > > > Bob > > > > Robert L Weiss Jr. > > Director of Music > > First United Methodist Carbondale, IL > > Professor Emeritus, SIUC > > ________________________________ > > From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of > > Mark West via Rhodes22-list > > Sent: Wednesday, August 26, 2020 3:48 PM > > To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org > > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Saildrive > > > > [EXTERNAL EMAIL ALERT]: Verify sender before opening links or attachments. > > > > Believe that sailboat 2 maby 3 years ago was in the Annapolis boat show . > > think sold to some one on west cost Seattle? Stan did design and build one > > with Torpedo's equipment mounted inside lazaret Mark > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Tom Van Heule > > To: Scott Andrews ; The Rhodes 22 Email List < > > rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> > > Sent: Wed, Aug 26, 2020 4:33 pm > > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Saildrive > > > > Stan had mentioned to me he had an idea where it would even retract, based > > on some torqueedo parts. > > > > On Wed, Aug 26, 2020, 2:17 PM Scott Andrews via Rhodes22-list < > > rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote: > > > > > Electric sail drive would be the ultimate. > > > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > > > > On Aug 26, 2020, at 12:06 PM, Jesse Shumaker < > > > jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com> wrote: > > > > > > > > ?Mark, it sounds like your R22 has even more bells and whistles than > > > most! > > > > I'm curious about your self tending jib. I've only seen that feature > > on > > > > larger boats such as Island Packets. Have you found the self tending > > jib > > > > to work well? > > > > > > > > Jesse Shumaker > > > > S/V Zephyr > > > > > > > >> On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 10:42 AM Mark Whipple > > > > > >> wrote: > > > >> > > > >> FWIW, I'm pretty sure the drive is at about the same depth as the > > keel. > > > >> I'll try to take a picture from the side later today. Also the rudder > > > >> redirects some of the prop wash since the prop is in front. I haven't > > > >> had it in the water yet this year (soon!) but I recall the feeling of > > > the > > > >> prop wash on the wheel was a little weird. Yes, my boat has a wheel > > and > > > a > > > >> self-tending jib, too. Not sure if it will get up on a plane. We'll > > see. > > > >> > > > >> Mark > > > >> > > > >> On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 11:31 AM Ric Stott > > > > > >> wrote: > > > >> > > > >>> Cory - that?s a really interesting install. > > > >>> Is 15 HP enough to get on a plane? > > > >>> It would not work for my needs - it?s too deep. > > > >>> I would need the prop to be no deeper than the bottom of the keel, > > and > > > I > > > >>> would mount it in the middle of the cockpit floor, about a foot aft > > of > > > >> the > > > >>> end of the keel, understanding that the motor head (probably > > electric > > > >> and > > > >>> smaller than the Yamaha head) would require a low cover above the > > > cockpit > > > >>> floor. > > > >>> I would also like it to be a steerable sail drive with a remote. > > > >>> Not sure that such a thing is even available. > > > >>> Thanks > > > >>> > > > >>> Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP > > > >>> > > https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://www.stottarchitecture.com__;!!DAxFFaumoJbh!PlQA_WtyYkzS4GNoAcAUUzzOP244-mDGavysZjDcyuTVO4TkE54763WQgVV9UQ$ > > > >>> Office 631-283-1777 > > > >>> Cell 516-965-3164 > > > >>> > > > >>> > > > >>> > > > >>> > > > >>> > > > >>>> On Aug 26, 2020, at 11:18 AM, Mark Whipple > > > >>> wrote: > > > >>>> > > > >>>> Ric, > > > >>>> > > > >>>> Here's a few pictures I dug up. I'm currently hunting for a source > > for > > > >>> the > > > >>>> zincs. > > > >>>> > > > >>>> Mark > > > >>>> [image: Rhodes 22 MA CL 03.jpg] > > > >>>> [image: Rhodes 22 MA CL 04.jpg] > > > >>>> [image: Rhodes 22 MA CL 08.jpg] > > > >>>> > > > >>>> > > > >>>> [image: 20200824_165705.jpg] > > > >>>> > > > >>>> On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 10:53 AM Richard Stott < > > > >>> ric at stottarchitecture.com> > > > >>>> wrote: > > > >>>> > > > >>>>> Mark > > > >>>>> 15 HP is a lot of motor. > > > >>>>> Can you show us a pic of where its mounted? > > > >>>>> Any pics of it under the boat? > > > >>>>> Can you share performance and maneuverability with us? > > > >>>>> I?m dying to know more about this. > > > >>>>> A steerable unit is my fantasy but a fixed one might work. > > > >>>>> Ric > > > >>>>> sv Dadventure > > > >>>>> HBNY > > > >>>>> > > > >>>>> Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP > > > >>>>> > > https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://www.stottarchitecture.com__;!!DAxFFaumoJbh!PlQA_WtyYkzS4GNoAcAUUzzOP244-mDGavysZjDcyuTVO4TkE54763WQgVV9UQ$ > > > >>>>> Office 631-283-1777 > > > >>>>> Cell 516-965-3164 > > > >>>>> > > > >>>>> > > > >>>>> > > > >>>>> > > > >>>>> > > > >>>>>> On Aug 26, 2020, at 10:43 AM, Mark Whipple < > > mark at whipplefamily.com> > > > >>>>> wrote: > > > >>>>>> > > > >>>>>> Hi Richard, > > > >>>>>> > > > >>>>>> I purchased my 2000 R22 last year and it came with a 15hp Yamaha > > > >>>>> saildrive. > > > >>>>>> I haven't had a chance to use the boat much yet, but it seems like > > > it > > > >>>>> will > > > >>>>>> address many of the issues with an outboard on the transom > > > >>>>>> (raising/lowering, keeping the drive underwater). > > > >>>>>> > > > >>>>>> Unfortunately the company that made this saildrive is essentially > > > out > > > >>> of > > > >>>>>> business. I am concerned about what I'll have to do once this > > > >> saildrive > > > >>>>>> needs a part I can't get or needs a costly repair. I'm not sure I > > > >> like > > > >>>>> the > > > >>>>>> alternative solutions that involve a motor on the transom. Maybe I > > > >> need > > > >>>>> to > > > >>>>>> start saving my pennies toward a replacement. Regarding that > > option, > > > >>> the > > > >>>>>> saildrives I've seen tend to have larger engine than mine - often > > a > > > >>>>> diesel. > > > >>>>>> Mine is essentially a Yamaha (made by Parsun) outboard head so > > it's > > > >> not > > > >>>>>> very tall. Maybe I'll be lucky and not have to solve the > > replacement > > > >>>>>> problem. > > > >>>>>> > > > >>>>>> Mark > > > >>>>>> > > > >>>>>> -- > > > >>>>>> Boston, MA > > > >>>>>> > > > >>>>>> 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* > > > >>>>>> 1987 Nimble 30 *For Sale* > > > >>>>>> 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* > > > >>>>>> > > > >>>>>> On Wed, Aug 26, 2020 at 10:14 AM Richard Stott < > > > >>>>> ric at stottarchitecture.com> > > > >>>>>> wrote: > > > >>>>>> > > > >>>>>>> Cary > > > >>>>>>> My ?84 GB mount broke on spring launch the year and my Yamaha 8 > > > went > > > >>> in > > > >>>>>>> the drink. > > > >>>>>>> I purchased a motor mount from West marine immediately so I could > > > >>>>> continue > > > >>>>>>> to use the boat with a spare motor I happened to have on hand. > > > >>>>>>> Its a stinky smoky ?99 Merc 2 stroke, but it always starts and > > runs > > > >>> when > > > >>>>>>> it need it - well almost always. > > > >>>>>>> I talked it over on the list and discussed with Mike Riter a plan > > > to > > > >>>>>>> convert the GB mount to be equipped with a threaded gear (his > > > >> sketch) > > > >>> so > > > >>>>>>> that the mont can be moved with a manual crank or an electric > > > motor. > > > >>>>>>> This would be huge advantage over the 6/1 tackle it came equipped > > > >>> with. > > > >>>>>>> I?ve been enjoying the boat too much to stop and refine that > > design > > > >> of > > > >>>>>>> Mikes - that?s a winter project. > > > >>>>>>> > > > >>>>>>> In any case the parallelogram type mount works fairly well, it > > has > > > >>> pros > > > >>>>>>> and cons. > > > >>>>>>> One of the biggest cons is that the moro in the down position is > > > >>> father > > > >>>>>>> aft of the transom and will cavitate and lose thrust in larger > > > >> waves, > > > >>>>>>> especially with weight on the bow. > > > >>>>>>> I will like the GB system (modified) over the alternative, but > > the > > > >>> West > > > >>>>>>> marine mount was easy to install and serves the immediate need. > > > >>>>>>> (What I really want is an electric, steerable, remote > > controlled, > > > >> 20 > > > >>> hp > > > >>>>>>> sail drive mounted right behind the keel trunk.) > > > >>>>>>> It?s doable for approximately one tone of money. > > > >>>>>>> > > > >>>>>>> One way I use the boat is unusual. > > > >>>>>>> I moore my boat 50 yards off shore. > > > >>>>>>> I use a stand-up paddle board for a tender because it's light and > > > >> easy > > > >>>>> to > > > >>>>>>> cary to the shore. > > > >>>>>>> I then use the motor only, with the rudder up, to back the boat > > on > > > >> to > > > >>>>> the > > > >>>>>>> beach to pick up provisions and of course my wife, who is not > > one > > > >> to > > > >>>>>>> paddle out to the boat. > > > >>>>>>> Depending on the tide and the slope of the beach, I can sometimes > > > >> put > > > >>>>> the > > > >>>>>>> stern right on the beach. > > > >>>>>>> An opening in the stern rail, like the more modern R22s would be > > a > > > >>> huge > > > >>>>>>> asset for picking up passengers from the beach. (next year) > > > >>>>>>> Ric > > > >>>>>>> sv Dadventure > > > >>>>>>> stay tuned for ?motor mount mod? updates > > > >>>>>>> > > > >>>>>>> > > > >>>>>>> > > > >>>>>>> Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP > > > >>>>>>> > > https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://www.stottarchitecture.com__;!!DAxFFaumoJbh!PlQA_WtyYkzS4GNoAcAUUzzOP244-mDGavysZjDcyuTVO4TkE54763WQgVV9UQ$ > > < > > https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://www.stottarchitecture.com/__;!!DAxFFaumoJbh!PlQA_WtyYkzS4GNoAcAUUzzOP244-mDGavysZjDcyuTVO4TkE54763Wr06h0Cg$ > > > > > > >>>>>>> Office 631-283-1777 > > > >>>>>>> Cell 516-965-3164 > > > >>>>>>> > > > >>>>>>> > > > >>>>>>> > > > >>>>>>> > > > >>>>>>> > > > >>>>>>>> On Aug 26, 2020, at 9:19 AM, Cary Tolbert < > > retiredtoby at gmail.com> > > > >>>>> wrote: > > > >>>>>>>> > > > >>>>>>>> Preview attachment 20200825_174517.jpg > > > >>>>>>>> 20200825_174517.jpg > > > >>>>>>>> 4 MB > > > >>>>>>>> < > > > >>>>>>> > > > >>>>> > > > >>> > > > >> > > > > > https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=be1ab8c6c5&attid=0.1&permmsgid=msg-a:r-7374969717110164997&th=1742adb6a4937cb8&view=att&disp=safe&realattid=1742adb12d8c3f23bf81__;!!DAxFFaumoJbh!PlQA_WtyYkzS4GNoAcAUUzzOP244-mDGavysZjDcyuTVO4TkE54763UrqbKnIw$ > > > >>>>>>>> Once > > > >>>>>>>> again HELP. Wed. the 25th I was motoring from my slip out on to > > > the > > > >>>>> lake > > > >>>>>>>> and kerplunk. The motor raising part of the boat fell off with > > the > > > >>>>> motor > > > >>>>>>>> attached and still running. I also had it attached with a s/s > > > >> chain. > > > >>>>>>> Lucky > > > >>>>>>>> or not.? ? ? Stan no longer makes the parts for an 86. He said > > he > > > >> has > > > >>>>>>> long > > > >>>>>>>> moved to newer and hopefully better designs. It seems the > > > starboard > > > >>>>>>>> material used to let the motor slide in the rails failed. My > > > >> question > > > >>>>> is > > > >>>>>>>> should I attempt to repair with parts of better materials or > > buy a > > > >>>>>>>> gerneric system for raising and lowering one's motor . Say > > > >> something > > > >>>>>>> that > > > >>>>>>>> would fit a Catalina 22? Looking for advice from the centuries > > of > > > >>>>>>>> experience on the list > > > >>>>>>>> Cary Tolbert S/V Whisper '86 > > > >>>>>>>> Radford, VA > > > >>>>>>> > > > >>>>>>> > > > >>>>>> > > > >>>>>> -- > > > >>>>>> Boston, MA > > > >>>>>> > > > >>>>>> 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* > > > >>>>>> 1986 Nimble 30 *For Sale* > > > >>>>>> 1982 Com-Pac 16 *For Sale* > > > >>>>> > > > >>>>> > > > >>>> -------------- next part -------------- > > > >>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > > >>>> Name: 20200824_165705.jpg > > > >>>> Type: image/jpeg > > > >>>> Size: 652767 bytes > > > >>>> Desc: not available > > > >>>> URL: < > > > >>> > > > >> > > > > > https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200826/730b3b80/attachment.jpg__;!!DAxFFaumoJbh!PlQA_WtyYkzS4GNoAcAUUzzOP244-mDGavysZjDcyuTVO4TkE54763XjNYun2Q$ > > > >>>> > > > >>>> -------------- next part -------------- > > > >>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > > >>>> Name: Rhodes 22 MA CL 03.jpg > > > >>>> Type: image/jpeg > > > >>>> Size: 61722 bytes > > > >>>> Desc: not available > > > >>>> URL: < > > > >>> > > > >> > > > > > https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200826/730b3b80/attachment-0001.jpg__;!!DAxFFaumoJbh!PlQA_WtyYkzS4GNoAcAUUzzOP244-mDGavysZjDcyuTVO4TkE54763XDKlETPg$ > > > >>>> > > > >>>> -------------- next part -------------- > > > >>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > > >>>> Name: Rhodes 22 MA CL 04.jpg > > > >>>> Type: image/jpeg > > > >>>> Size: 79585 bytes > > > >>>> Desc: not available > > > >>>> URL: < > > > >>> > > > >> > > > > > https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200826/730b3b80/attachment-0002.jpg__;!!DAxFFaumoJbh!PlQA_WtyYkzS4GNoAcAUUzzOP244-mDGavysZjDcyuTVO4TkE54763XB6rYtFw$ > > > >>>> > > > >>>> -------------- next part -------------- > > > >>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > > >>>> Name: Rhodes 22 MA CL 08.jpg > > > >>>> Type: image/jpeg > > > >>>> Size: 200670 bytes > > > >>>> Desc: not available > > > >>>> URL: < > > > >>> > > > >> > > > > > https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200826/730b3b80/attachment-0003.jpg__;!!DAxFFaumoJbh!PlQA_WtyYkzS4GNoAcAUUzzOP244-mDGavysZjDcyuTVO4TkE54763UQRjoChQ$ > > > >>>> > > > >>> > > > >>> > > > >> > > > > > > > > From cp.boyce at comcast.net Sat Aug 29 23:23:18 2020 From: cp.boyce at comcast.net (CPBoyce) Date: Sat, 29 Aug 2020 20:23:18 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Saildrive In-Reply-To: References: <25D50094-CC7F-45F0-900A-80859113A313@stottarchitecture.com> <2132503877.5941900.1598474888368@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1598757798808-0.post@n5.nabble.com> More on Take Five...the Torqeedo motor is the Cruise 4.0 pod system, powered by two lithium ion batteries, for a propulsive equivalent to gasoline of 8hp. Stan mounted the two batteries in series under the starboard cockpit seat. This cuts down on storage, but better I think than having to store cans of gasoline. Also the weight of the two batteries (about 120 pounds) causes the boat to list to starboard unless you counterbalance it on the port side. I used four 25 pound barbell weights for that, since they are compact space wise. We keep her in the watet at Swantown Marina in Olympia. The well in the lazarette did not have anti fouling paint at first and a year later it was clogged with critters. Almost could not lower the pod. But after having that painted just need to remember to lift the pod out of the water after use, which also saves on anode wear. Range fully charged is about 25 miles at 3 knots unless fighting the tide. We also have a smaller Torqeedo Travel 1003 with extra batteries that, though a bit underpowered for this boat, can still move her another 20 miles using all the batteries if necessary. In Puget Sound we're never more than 8 or 10 miles from a marina with dock power. Will post photos of the motor if you want. Patrick Boyce ----- The Boyces s/v Take Five (aka the Electric Rhodes) -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com Sun Aug 30 07:11:44 2020 From: jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com (JeffSmith) Date: Sun, 30 Aug 2020 04:11:44 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Whisker pole ring In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1598785904838-0.post@n5.nabble.com> That is the one I use. It is easily bendable in a vise. ----- Jeff Smith 2009 R22 #101 RADIANT Atlantic Highlands Municpal Harbor Atlantic Highlands, NJ -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From tom.vanheule at intrinsicprograms.com Sun Aug 30 09:07:15 2020 From: tom.vanheule at intrinsicprograms.com (Tom Van Heule) Date: Sun, 30 Aug 2020 08:07:15 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Saildrive In-Reply-To: <1598757798808-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <25D50094-CC7F-45F0-900A-80859113A313@stottarchitecture.com> <2132503877.5941900.1598474888368@mail.yahoo.com> <1598757798808-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: Celia, Patrick, I for one would love to see pics. They say so many words!! Sounds really special On Sat, Aug 29, 2020, 10:23 PM CPBoyce wrote: > More on Take Five...the Torqeedo motor is the Cruise 4.0 pod system, > powered > by two lithium ion batteries, for a propulsive equivalent to gasoline of > 8hp. Stan mounted the two batteries in series under the starboard cockpit > seat. This cuts down on storage, but better I think than having to store > cans of gasoline. Also the weight of the two batteries (about 120 pounds) > causes the boat to list to starboard unless you counterbalance it on the > port side. I used four 25 pound barbell weights for that, since they are > compact space wise. We keep her in the watet at Swantown Marina in Olympia. > The well in the lazarette did not have anti fouling paint at first and a > year later it was clogged with critters. Almost could not lower the pod. > But > after having that painted just need to remember to lift the pod out of the > water after use, which also saves on anode wear. Range fully charged is > about 25 miles at 3 knots unless fighting the tide. We also have a smaller > Torqeedo Travel 1003 with extra batteries that, though a bit underpowered > for this boat, can still move her another 20 miles using all the batteries > if necessary. In Puget Sound we're never more than 8 or 10 miles from a > marina with dock power. Will post photos of the motor if you want. > Patrick Boyce > > > > ----- > The Boyces > s/v Take Five (aka the Electric Rhodes) > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > From luis.guzman.ve at gmail.com Sun Aug 30 09:16:47 2020 From: luis.guzman.ve at gmail.com (Luis Guzman) Date: Sun, 30 Aug 2020 09:16:47 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Saildrive In-Reply-To: References: <25D50094-CC7F-45F0-900A-80859113A313@stottarchitecture.com> <2132503877.5941900.1598474888368@mail.yahoo.com> <1598757798808-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: Yes, please send pics Luis A. Guzm?n S/V Aquetxali > On Aug 30, 2020, at 9:07 AM, Tom Van Heule wrote: > > Celia, Patrick, > I for one would love to see pics. They say so many words!! Sounds really > special > > > On Sat, Aug 29, 2020, 10:23 PM CPBoyce wrote: > >> More on Take Five...the Torqeedo motor is the Cruise 4.0 pod system, >> powered >> by two lithium ion batteries, for a propulsive equivalent to gasoline of >> 8hp. Stan mounted the two batteries in series under the starboard cockpit >> seat. This cuts down on storage, but better I think than having to store >> cans of gasoline. Also the weight of the two batteries (about 120 pounds) >> causes the boat to list to starboard unless you counterbalance it on the >> port side. I used four 25 pound barbell weights for that, since they are >> compact space wise. We keep her in the watet at Swantown Marina in Olympia. >> The well in the lazarette did not have anti fouling paint at first and a >> year later it was clogged with critters. Almost could not lower the pod. >> But >> after having that painted just need to remember to lift the pod out of the >> water after use, which also saves on anode wear. Range fully charged is >> about 25 miles at 3 knots unless fighting the tide. We also have a smaller >> Torqeedo Travel 1003 with extra batteries that, though a bit underpowered >> for this boat, can still move her another 20 miles using all the batteries >> if necessary. In Puget Sound we're never more than 8 or 10 miles from a >> marina with dock power. Will post photos of the motor if you want. >> Patrick Boyce >> >> >> >> ----- >> The Boyces >> s/v Take Five (aka the Electric Rhodes) >> -- >> Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ >> From chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com Sun Aug 30 12:44:56 2020 From: chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com (Chris Geankoplis) Date: Sun, 30 Aug 2020 12:44:56 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] electric motor raising winch setup Message-ID: Anyone out there in the Baltimore Annapolis area who has an electric motor raising setup. The Red Rhodes I just bought has a broken, semi-detached one and I was hoping that I might get a look at a working one in person. Of course mask and social distancing is the fashion statement of the day. Thanks! Chris Geankoplis Enosis From lgioia at yahoo.com Sun Aug 30 16:07:05 2020 From: lgioia at yahoo.com (Larry Gioia) Date: Sun, 30 Aug 2020 16:07:05 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Saildrive In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <12C36BC4-52D6-48CA-84D6-240730FAB52A@yahoo.com> All very interesting. Has anyone tried the Torqueedo 1003L? Or S? Or C which seems to have a larger capacity battery. https://www.torqeedo.com/us/en-us/products/outboards/travel/travel-1003-l/1143-20.html With the integrated battery, 33lbs total weight, and 3-4hp max, seems pretty good. I use a Mercury 3.5 on the lake here, and it rarely is over 1/4 throttle. My only concern is can the tiller handle rotate slightly upwards as I need to do on my Merc. Larry ?14 R22 Lake George NY ?86 R22 Keystone Lake, FL > On Aug 30, 2020, at 9:16 AM, Luis Guzman wrote: > > ?Yes, please send pics > > Luis A. Guzm?n > > S/V Aquetxali > >> On Aug 30, 2020, at 9:07 AM, Tom Van Heule wrote: >> >> Celia, Patrick, >> I for one would love to see pics. They say so many words!! Sounds really >> special >> >> >>> On Sat, Aug 29, 2020, 10:23 PM CPBoyce wrote: >>> >>> More on Take Five...the Torqeedo motor is the Cruise 4.0 pod system, >>> powered >>> by two lithium ion batteries, for a propulsive equivalent to gasoline of >>> 8hp. Stan mounted the two batteries in series under the starboard cockpit >>> seat. This cuts down on storage, but better I think than having to store >>> cans of gasoline. Also the weight of the two batteries (about 120 pounds) >>> causes the boat to list to starboard unless you counterbalance it on the >>> port side. I used four 25 pound barbell weights for that, since they are >>> compact space wise. We keep her in the watet at Swantown Marina in Olympia. >>> The well in the lazarette did not have anti fouling paint at first and a >>> year later it was clogged with critters. Almost could not lower the pod. >>> But >>> after having that painted just need to remember to lift the pod out of the >>> water after use, which also saves on anode wear. Range fully charged is >>> about 25 miles at 3 knots unless fighting the tide. We also have a smaller >>> Torqeedo Travel 1003 with extra batteries that, though a bit underpowered >>> for this boat, can still move her another 20 miles using all the batteries >>> if necessary. In Puget Sound we're never more than 8 or 10 miles from a >>> marina with dock power. Will post photos of the motor if you want. >>> Patrick Boyce >>> >>> >>> >>> ----- >>> The Boyces >>> s/v Take Five (aka the Electric Rhodes) >>> -- >>> Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ >>> > From jose.faraldo at gmail.com Sun Aug 30 16:14:21 2020 From: jose.faraldo at gmail.com (Jose Faraldo-Gomez) Date: Sun, 30 Aug 2020 16:14:21 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] electric motor raising winch setup In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <9D70F702-7FF4-4F36-A51C-F938A7ABDCA9@gmail.com> We?re 25 miles south of Annapolis, at Herrington Harbour South. If that?s convenient enough and tomorrow Monday works for you, we can set up a time. Email directly? Jose > On Aug 30, 2020, at 12:45 PM, Chris Geankoplis wrote: > > ?Anyone out there in the Baltimore Annapolis area who has an electric motor > raising setup. The Red Rhodes I just bought has a broken, > semi-detached one and I was hoping that I might get a look at a working one > in person. Of course mask and social distancing is the fashion > statement of the day. Thanks! > Chris Geankoplis > Enosis From lgioia at yahoo.com Sun Aug 30 16:17:31 2020 From: lgioia at yahoo.com (Larry Gioia) Date: Sun, 30 Aug 2020 16:17:31 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Saildrive In-Reply-To: <12C36BC4-52D6-48CA-84D6-240730FAB52A@yahoo.com> References: <12C36BC4-52D6-48CA-84D6-240730FAB52A@yahoo.com> Message-ID: Apologies, I see Patrick & Celia further down mentioned the 1003, and said it?s a bit under-powered, as is my Merc 3.5. Which model 1003 is it? Wondering if long (L) or short-shaft (S) or (C). Larry > On Aug 30, 2020, at 4:07 PM, Larry Gioia wrote: > > ? > All very interesting. > > Has anyone tried the Torqueedo 1003L? Or S? Or C which seems to have a larger capacity battery. > > https://www.torqeedo.com/us/en-us/products/outboards/travel/travel-1003-l/1143-20.html > > With the integrated battery, 33lbs total weight, and 3-4hp max, seems pretty good. I use a Mercury 3.5 on the lake here, and it rarely is over 1/4 throttle. My only concern is can the tiller handle rotate slightly upwards as I need to do on my Merc. > > Larry > > ?14 R22 Lake George NY > ?86 R22 Keystone Lake, FL > >>> On Aug 30, 2020, at 9:16 AM, Luis Guzman wrote: >>> >> ?Yes, please send pics >> >> Luis A. Guzm?n >> >> S/V Aquetxali >> >>> On Aug 30, 2020, at 9:07 AM, Tom Van Heule wrote: >>> >>> Celia, Patrick, >>> I for one would love to see pics. They say so many words!! Sounds really >>> special >>> >>> >>>> On Sat, Aug 29, 2020, 10:23 PM CPBoyce wrote: >>>> >>>> More on Take Five...the Torqeedo motor is the Cruise 4.0 pod system, >>>> powered >>>> by two lithium ion batteries, for a propulsive equivalent to gasoline of >>>> 8hp. Stan mounted the two batteries in series under the starboard cockpit >>>> seat. This cuts down on storage, but better I think than having to store >>>> cans of gasoline. Also the weight of the two batteries (about 120 pounds) >>>> causes the boat to list to starboard unless you counterbalance it on the >>>> port side. I used four 25 pound barbell weights for that, since they are >>>> compact space wise. We keep her in the watet at Swantown Marina in Olympia. >>>> The well in the lazarette did not have anti fouling paint at first and a >>>> year later it was clogged with critters. Almost could not lower the pod. >>>> But >>>> after having that painted just need to remember to lift the pod out of the >>>> water after use, which also saves on anode wear. Range fully charged is >>>> about 25 miles at 3 knots unless fighting the tide. We also have a smaller >>>> Torqeedo Travel 1003 with extra batteries that, though a bit underpowered >>>> for this boat, can still move her another 20 miles using all the batteries >>>> if necessary. In Puget Sound we're never more than 8 or 10 miles from a >>>> marina with dock power. Will post photos of the motor if you want. >>>> Patrick Boyce >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> ----- >>>> The Boyces >>>> s/v Take Five (aka the Electric Rhodes) >>>> -- >>>> Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ >>>> >> From jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com Sun Aug 30 20:31:14 2020 From: jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com (Jesse Shumaker) Date: Sun, 30 Aug 2020 19:31:14 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] on the water replacement of diamondboard pennant line Message-ID: As noted in some prior posts, my diamondboard pennant line was starting to wear through at the point where it was cleated while the diamondboard was pulled up. My R22 is a 1991 that was refurbished in 2013. This vintage has the diamondboard pennant line that runs straight through without any blocks involved. After it was replaced, I measured the old pennant line and it was 53" from the knot on the bottom to the knot above the handle. For a replacement line, I purchased a 25' (much longer than needed - more on that in a minute) length of 1/4" Paracord. It appears to have a very durable jacket and plenty of strength. We'll see how it holds up. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018XZYFK4 In order to avoid removing the diamondboard cap and replacing the line from above while on the trailer, I took the following approach on the water this morning and it worked well. It requires SCUBA gear, or more lung capacity than I have to hold my breath. - Extend the centerboard using existing centerboard line to hold in place at an extended position - Put in place a bridle using a line that goes from the fairlead and cam cleat on one side of the cabin, run it under the boat and under the diamondboard back up to the matching cam cleat on the other side. SCUBA person checks the placement of this bridle line. - Put some extra tension on the bridle line to lift the diamondboard a few inches so that you have a few inches of slack on the normal diamonboard pennant line. I put on a couple of vice grips on the diamondboard pennant line just where it comes out of the hole as a safety measure in case the bridle slipped. - I had to cut the pennant line at the knot above the handle because I couldn't get the knot untied. At this point, I was committed making this replacement project work. - Remove the handle from the line - Sew the top end of the old line to the bottom end of the new line together (end to end) using normal needle and thread - SCUBA person pulls on the old line underwater and this pulls through the new line. My pennant line just had a stopper knot and the SCUBA guy could pull that through and keep pulling enough extra line through so he could bring up the old line to the surface so we could see the stopper knot, all the old line and where it attaches to the new line. - Cut the thread that joined the two lines, and tie a stopper knot in the end of the new line. - While the SCUBA guy goes below to make sure the line runs through, person in cockpit pulls back out the new line until it is to the point of tension - Thread the handle onto the new line - Tie on a stopper knot above the handle, leaving a the same amount of extra line that was there on the old line (since we had pulled the diamondboard up a few inches to give extra line to work with). - Test raising the diamondboard. - I left a longer tail on the new line and wrapped it around the handle number of times before cutting it so that if I need to make some adjustments in the future I have some extra line to work with - Once satisfied that everything is tied properly and at the appropriate length, remove the bridle. - Job done, thank your SCUBA friend for helping! I attached a few photos. Jesse Shumaker S/V Zephyr -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: OldDBpennant.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 73702 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: OldDBpennantCleatedNotAllTheWayUp.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 48768 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: NewDBpennantHandle.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 58018 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: NewDBpennant.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 48591 bytes Desc: not available URL: From jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com Sun Aug 30 20:37:21 2020 From: jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com (Jesse Shumaker) Date: Sun, 30 Aug 2020 19:37:21 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Split Ring Alternative? In-Reply-To: <1598710719491-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1598710719491-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: I use velcro wrap pins to lock my turnbuckles. The prior owner had done that as well but the velcro had worn out over time from being in the elements. I ordered replacements: C.SHERMAN JOHNSON brand model WRAPC2-P. I put PVC pipe over my turnbuckles to avoid chafe on the sails and I think it will also help with the longevity of the velcro wrap pins. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GC4BPQJ Jesse Shumaker S/V Zephyr On Sat, Aug 29, 2020 at 9:18 AM JeffSmith wrote: > I hate using split rings or "safety pins" to secure clevis pins! > Has anyone had real life experience with: > > SUNCOR QUICK LOCK PIN 1/4" X 1/2" 316 S/S SCR-S0375-0715 > QUICK LOCK PIN > 1/4" X 1/2" 316 S/S 173204 In Stock 15.29 > > These are from Hamilton Marine. > WLL shear load is 4,600 lbs, which should be more than adequate and as long > as the clevis pin holder hole is not enlarged, should be secure. > > I figure that with the redundancy of stays on the R22, one failure would > not > be catastrophic. > Pricey for 10 of them, but worth it in frustration abatement. > > > > > ----- > Jeff Smith > 2009 R22 #101 RADIANT > Atlantic Highlands Municpal Harbor > Atlantic Highlands, NJ > > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > From tom.vanheule at intrinsicprograms.com Sun Aug 30 20:39:21 2020 From: tom.vanheule at intrinsicprograms.com (Tom Van Heule) Date: Sun, 30 Aug 2020 19:39:21 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] on the water replacement of diamondboard pennant line In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Great write up Jesse. This makes logical sense. So if you weren't scuba you could do this on the trailer too I'd guess? On Sun, Aug 30, 2020, 7:31 PM Jesse Shumaker wrote: > As noted in some prior posts, my diamondboard pennant line was starting to > wear through at the point where it was cleated while the diamondboard was > pulled up. > > My R22 is a 1991 that was refurbished in 2013. This vintage has the > diamondboard pennant line that runs straight through without any blocks > involved. After it was replaced, I measured the old pennant line and it > was 53" from the knot on the bottom to the knot above the handle. For a > replacement line, I purchased a 25' (much longer than needed - more on that > in a minute) length of 1/4" Paracord. It appears to have a very durable > jacket and plenty of strength. We'll see how it holds up. > https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018XZYFK4 > > In order to avoid removing the diamondboard cap and replacing the line from > above while on the trailer, I took the following approach on the water this > morning and it worked well. It requires SCUBA gear, or more lung capacity > than I have to hold my breath. > > - Extend the centerboard using existing centerboard line to hold in > place at an extended position > - Put in place a bridle using a line that goes from the fairlead and cam > cleat on one side of the cabin, run it under the boat and under the > diamondboard back up to the matching cam cleat on the other side. SCUBA > person checks the placement of this bridle line. > - Put some extra tension on the bridle line to lift the diamondboard a > few inches so that you have a few inches of slack on the normal > diamonboard > pennant line. I put on a couple of vice grips on the diamondboard > pennant > line just where it comes out of the hole as a safety measure in case the > bridle slipped. > - I had to cut the pennant line at the knot above the handle because I > couldn't get the knot untied. At this point, I was committed making > this > replacement project work. > - Remove the handle from the line > - Sew the top end of the old line to the bottom end of the new line > together (end to end) using normal needle and thread > - SCUBA person pulls on the old line underwater and this pulls through > the new line. My pennant line just had a stopper knot and the SCUBA guy > could pull that through and keep pulling enough extra line through so he > could bring up the old line to the surface so we could see the stopper > knot, all the old line and where it attaches to the new line. > - Cut the thread that joined the two lines, and tie a stopper knot in > the end of the new line. > - While the SCUBA guy goes below to make sure the line runs through, > person in cockpit pulls back out the new line until it is to the point > of > tension > - Thread the handle onto the new line > - Tie on a stopper knot above the handle, leaving a the same amount of > extra line that was there on the old line (since we had pulled the > diamondboard up a few inches to give extra line to work with). > - Test raising the diamondboard. > - I left a longer tail on the new line and wrapped it around the handle > number of times before cutting it so that if I need to make some > adjustments in the future I have some extra line to work with > - Once satisfied that everything is tied properly and at the appropriate > length, remove the bridle. > - Job done, thank your SCUBA friend for helping! > > I attached a few photos. > > Jesse Shumaker > S/V Zephyr > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: OldDBpennant.JPG > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 73702 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200830/31a9f4f6/attachment.jpe > > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: OldDBpennantCleatedNotAllTheWayUp.JPG > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 48768 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200830/31a9f4f6/attachment-0001.jpe > > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: NewDBpennantHandle.JPG > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 58018 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200830/31a9f4f6/attachment-0002.jpe > > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: NewDBpennant.JPG > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 48591 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200830/31a9f4f6/attachment-0003.jpe > > > From tom.vanheule at intrinsicprograms.com Sun Aug 30 20:45:58 2020 From: tom.vanheule at intrinsicprograms.com (Tom Van Heule) Date: Sun, 30 Aug 2020 19:45:58 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Split Ring Alternative? In-Reply-To: References: <1598710719491-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: Jesse, These are good suggestion around solving turnbuckles walking. The guys are looking at the splitting ring < like a keychain ring but not absolute ahit> that hold the pin in the tunrbuckle and chainstay. You'd better have good finger nails, or patience, or both... Don't drop one. Lol I have to mast up Everytime I sail, I'd love to use a few sets of good snap pins / quick pins on the two sets of cabin stays. It would save ?? minutes in setup and teardown. I am also interested in a quick release stay system for those of us in trailer situations. Tom On Sun, Aug 30, 2020, 7:37 PM Jesse Shumaker wrote: > I use velcro wrap pins to lock my turnbuckles. The prior owner had done > that as well but the velcro had worn out over time from being in the > elements. I ordered replacements: C.SHERMAN JOHNSON brand model WRAPC2-P. > I put PVC pipe over my turnbuckles to avoid chafe on the sails and I think > it will also help with the longevity of the velcro wrap pins. > https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GC4BPQJ > > Jesse Shumaker > S/V Zephyr > > On Sat, Aug 29, 2020 at 9:18 AM JeffSmith > wrote: > > > I hate using split rings or "safety pins" to secure clevis pins! > > Has anyone had real life experience with: > > > > SUNCOR QUICK LOCK PIN 1/4" X 1/2" 316 S/S SCR-S0375-0715 > > QUICK LOCK PIN > > 1/4" X 1/2" 316 S/S 173204 In Stock 15.29 > > > > These are from Hamilton Marine. > > WLL shear load is 4,600 lbs, which should be more than adequate and as > long > > as the clevis pin holder hole is not enlarged, should be secure. > > > > I figure that with the redundancy of stays on the R22, one failure would > > not > > be catastrophic. > > Pricey for 10 of them, but worth it in frustration abatement. > > > > > > > > > > ----- > > Jeff Smith > > 2009 R22 #101 RADIANT > > Atlantic Highlands Municpal Harbor > > Atlantic Highlands, NJ > > > > -- > > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > > > From cp.boyce at comcast.net Sun Aug 30 21:03:05 2020 From: cp.boyce at comcast.net (CPBoyce) Date: Sun, 30 Aug 2020 18:03:05 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Saildrive In-Reply-To: <12C36BC4-52D6-48CA-84D6-240730FAB52A@yahoo.com> References: <2132503877.5941900.1598474888368@mail.yahoo.com> <1598757798808-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <12C36BC4-52D6-48CA-84D6-240730FAB52A@yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1598835785997-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Travel 1003 long shaft as our backup. Will try to send photos tomorrow. Celia ----- The Boyces s/v Take Five (aka the Electric Rhodes) -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com Sun Aug 30 21:39:20 2020 From: jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com (Jesse Shumaker) Date: Sun, 30 Aug 2020 20:39:20 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Split Ring Alternative? In-Reply-To: References: <1598710719491-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: Tom, thanks for clarifying. I had misunderstood. I can understand the need for efficiency if you are stepping the mast for each sail. I only do that a few times a season so I'm not so fast :) Jesse Shumaker S/V Zephyr On Sun, Aug 30, 2020, 7:46 PM Tom Van Heule < tom.vanheule at intrinsicprograms.com> wrote: > Jesse, > These are good suggestion around solving turnbuckles walking. The guys are > looking at the splitting ring < like a keychain ring but not absolute ahit> > that hold the pin in the tunrbuckle and chainstay. You'd better have good > finger nails, or patience, or both... Don't drop one. Lol > > I have to mast up Everytime I sail, I'd love to use a few sets of good snap > pins / quick pins on the two sets of cabin stays. It would save ?? minutes > in setup and teardown. > > I am also interested in a quick release stay system for those of us in > trailer situations. > > Tom > > On Sun, Aug 30, 2020, 7:37 PM Jesse Shumaker < > jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com> > wrote: > > > I use velcro wrap pins to lock my turnbuckles. The prior owner had done > > that as well but the velcro had worn out over time from being in the > > elements. I ordered replacements: C.SHERMAN JOHNSON brand model > WRAPC2-P. > > I put PVC pipe over my turnbuckles to avoid chafe on the sails and I > think > > it will also help with the longevity of the velcro wrap pins. > > https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GC4BPQJ > > > > Jesse Shumaker > > S/V Zephyr > > > > On Sat, Aug 29, 2020 at 9:18 AM JeffSmith > > wrote: > > > > > I hate using split rings or "safety pins" to secure clevis pins! > > > Has anyone had real life experience with: > > > > > > SUNCOR QUICK LOCK PIN 1/4" X 1/2" 316 S/S SCR-S0375-0715 > > > QUICK LOCK PIN > > > 1/4" X 1/2" 316 S/S 173204 In Stock 15.29 > > > > > > These are from Hamilton Marine. > > > WLL shear load is 4,600 lbs, which should be more than adequate and as > > long > > > as the clevis pin holder hole is not enlarged, should be secure. > > > > > > I figure that with the redundancy of stays on the R22, one failure > would > > > not > > > be catastrophic. > > > Pricey for 10 of them, but worth it in frustration abatement. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ----- > > > Jeff Smith > > > 2009 R22 #101 RADIANT > > > Atlantic Highlands Municpal Harbor > > > Atlantic Highlands, NJ > > > > > > -- > > > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > > > > > > From jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com Sun Aug 30 21:46:15 2020 From: jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com (Jesse Shumaker) Date: Sun, 30 Aug 2020 20:46:15 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] on the water replacement of diamondboard pennant line In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi Tom, you can't access the attachment point on the DB from underneath when the boat is on the trailer because the DB is retracted and that part is inside the trunk. From what I've read on other posts, when the boat is on the trailer, you can take off the gasket on top of the keel and replace the pennant from above. From the stories on that topic, it sounds like that process involves a lot of screws/bolts and typically some salty language. Jesse Shumaker S/V Zephyr On Sun, Aug 30, 2020, 7:39 PM Tom Van Heule < tom.vanheule at intrinsicprograms.com> wrote: > Great write up Jesse. > This makes logical sense. So if you weren't scuba you could do this on the > trailer too I'd guess? > > On Sun, Aug 30, 2020, 7:31 PM Jesse Shumaker < > jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com> > wrote: > > > As noted in some prior posts, my diamondboard pennant line was starting > to > > wear through at the point where it was cleated while the diamondboard was > > pulled up. > > > > My R22 is a 1991 that was refurbished in 2013. This vintage has the > > diamondboard pennant line that runs straight through without any blocks > > involved. After it was replaced, I measured the old pennant line and it > > was 53" from the knot on the bottom to the knot above the handle. For a > > replacement line, I purchased a 25' (much longer than needed - more on > that > > in a minute) length of 1/4" Paracord. It appears to have a very durable > > jacket and plenty of strength. We'll see how it holds up. > > https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018XZYFK4 > > > > In order to avoid removing the diamondboard cap and replacing the line > from > > above while on the trailer, I took the following approach on the water > this > > morning and it worked well. It requires SCUBA gear, or more lung > capacity > > than I have to hold my breath. > > > > - Extend the centerboard using existing centerboard line to hold in > > place at an extended position > > - Put in place a bridle using a line that goes from the fairlead and > cam > > cleat on one side of the cabin, run it under the boat and under the > > diamondboard back up to the matching cam cleat on the other side. > SCUBA > > person checks the placement of this bridle line. > > - Put some extra tension on the bridle line to lift the diamondboard a > > few inches so that you have a few inches of slack on the normal > > diamonboard > > pennant line. I put on a couple of vice grips on the diamondboard > > pennant > > line just where it comes out of the hole as a safety measure in case > the > > bridle slipped. > > - I had to cut the pennant line at the knot above the handle because I > > couldn't get the knot untied. At this point, I was committed making > > this > > replacement project work. > > - Remove the handle from the line > > - Sew the top end of the old line to the bottom end of the new line > > together (end to end) using normal needle and thread > > - SCUBA person pulls on the old line underwater and this pulls through > > the new line. My pennant line just had a stopper knot and the SCUBA > guy > > could pull that through and keep pulling enough extra line through so > he > > could bring up the old line to the surface so we could see the stopper > > knot, all the old line and where it attaches to the new line. > > - Cut the thread that joined the two lines, and tie a stopper knot in > > the end of the new line. > > - While the SCUBA guy goes below to make sure the line runs through, > > person in cockpit pulls back out the new line until it is to the point > > of > > tension > > - Thread the handle onto the new line > > - Tie on a stopper knot above the handle, leaving a the same amount of > > extra line that was there on the old line (since we had pulled the > > diamondboard up a few inches to give extra line to work with). > > - Test raising the diamondboard. > > - I left a longer tail on the new line and wrapped it around the > handle > > number of times before cutting it so that if I need to make some > > adjustments in the future I have some extra line to work with > > - Once satisfied that everything is tied properly and at the > appropriate > > length, remove the bridle. > > - Job done, thank your SCUBA friend for helping! > > > > I attached a few photos. > > > > Jesse Shumaker > > S/V Zephyr > > -------------- next part -------------- > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > Name: OldDBpennant.JPG > > Type: image/jpeg > > Size: 73702 bytes > > Desc: not available > > URL: < > > > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200830/31a9f4f6/attachment.jpe > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > Name: OldDBpennantCleatedNotAllTheWayUp.JPG > > Type: image/jpeg > > Size: 48768 bytes > > Desc: not available > > URL: < > > > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200830/31a9f4f6/attachment-0001.jpe > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > Name: NewDBpennantHandle.JPG > > Type: image/jpeg > > Size: 58018 bytes > > Desc: not available > > URL: < > > > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200830/31a9f4f6/attachment-0002.jpe > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > Name: NewDBpennant.JPG > > Type: image/jpeg > > Size: 48591 bytes > > Desc: not available > > URL: < > > > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200830/31a9f4f6/attachment-0003.jpe > > > > > > From tom.vanheule at intrinsicprograms.com Sun Aug 30 22:20:58 2020 From: tom.vanheule at intrinsicprograms.com (Tom Van Heule) Date: Sun, 30 Aug 2020 21:20:58 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Split Ring Alternative? In-Reply-To: References: <1598710719491-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: All good. At least we all know what fun is!! This is ... On Sun, Aug 30, 2020, 8:39 PM Jesse Shumaker wrote: > Tom, thanks for clarifying. I had misunderstood. I can understand the > need for efficiency if you are stepping the mast for each sail. I only do > that a few times a season so I'm not so fast :) > > Jesse Shumaker > S/V Zephyr > > On Sun, Aug 30, 2020, 7:46 PM Tom Van Heule < > tom.vanheule at intrinsicprograms.com> wrote: > > > Jesse, > > These are good suggestion around solving turnbuckles walking. The guys > are > > looking at the splitting ring < like a keychain ring but not absolute > ahit> > > that hold the pin in the tunrbuckle and chainstay. You'd better have > good > > finger nails, or patience, or both... Don't drop one. Lol > > > > I have to mast up Everytime I sail, I'd love to use a few sets of good > snap > > pins / quick pins on the two sets of cabin stays. It would save ?? > minutes > > in setup and teardown. > > > > I am also interested in a quick release stay system for those of us in > > trailer situations. > > > > Tom > > > > On Sun, Aug 30, 2020, 7:37 PM Jesse Shumaker < > > jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com> > > wrote: > > > > > I use velcro wrap pins to lock my turnbuckles. The prior owner had > done > > > that as well but the velcro had worn out over time from being in the > > > elements. I ordered replacements: C.SHERMAN JOHNSON brand model > > WRAPC2-P. > > > I put PVC pipe over my turnbuckles to avoid chafe on the sails and I > > think > > > it will also help with the longevity of the velcro wrap pins. > > > https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GC4BPQJ > > > > > > Jesse Shumaker > > > S/V Zephyr > > > > > > On Sat, Aug 29, 2020 at 9:18 AM JeffSmith > > > wrote: > > > > > > > I hate using split rings or "safety pins" to secure clevis pins! > > > > Has anyone had real life experience with: > > > > > > > > SUNCOR QUICK LOCK PIN 1/4" X 1/2" 316 S/S > SCR-S0375-0715 > > > > QUICK LOCK PIN > > > > 1/4" X 1/2" 316 S/S 173204 In Stock 15.29 > > > > > > > > These are from Hamilton Marine. > > > > WLL shear load is 4,600 lbs, which should be more than adequate and > as > > > long > > > > as the clevis pin holder hole is not enlarged, should be secure. > > > > > > > > I figure that with the redundancy of stays on the R22, one failure > > would > > > > not > > > > be catastrophic. > > > > Pricey for 10 of them, but worth it in frustration abatement. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ----- > > > > Jeff Smith > > > > 2009 R22 #101 RADIANT > > > > Atlantic Highlands Municpal Harbor > > > > Atlantic Highlands, NJ > > > > > > > > -- > > > > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > > > > > > > > > > From tom.vanheule at intrinsicprograms.com Sun Aug 30 22:22:50 2020 From: tom.vanheule at intrinsicprograms.com (Tom Van Heule) Date: Sun, 30 Aug 2020 21:22:50 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] on the water replacement of diamondboard pennant line In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: That's very helpful. I see. Need to have the board down enough to access the knot. Thanks Jesse. On Sun, Aug 30, 2020, 8:46 PM Jesse Shumaker wrote: > Hi Tom, you can't access the attachment point on the DB from underneath > when the boat is on the trailer because the DB is retracted and that part > is inside the trunk. From what I've read on other posts, when the boat is > on the trailer, you can take off the gasket on top of the keel and replace > the pennant from above. From the stories on that topic, it sounds like > that process involves a lot of screws/bolts and typically some salty > language. > > Jesse Shumaker > S/V Zephyr > > On Sun, Aug 30, 2020, 7:39 PM Tom Van Heule < > tom.vanheule at intrinsicprograms.com> wrote: > > > Great write up Jesse. > > This makes logical sense. So if you weren't scuba you could do this on > the > > trailer too I'd guess? > > > > On Sun, Aug 30, 2020, 7:31 PM Jesse Shumaker < > > jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com> > > wrote: > > > > > As noted in some prior posts, my diamondboard pennant line was starting > > to > > > wear through at the point where it was cleated while the diamondboard > was > > > pulled up. > > > > > > My R22 is a 1991 that was refurbished in 2013. This vintage has the > > > diamondboard pennant line that runs straight through without any blocks > > > involved. After it was replaced, I measured the old pennant line and > it > > > was 53" from the knot on the bottom to the knot above the handle. For > a > > > replacement line, I purchased a 25' (much longer than needed - more on > > that > > > in a minute) length of 1/4" Paracord. It appears to have a very > durable > > > jacket and plenty of strength. We'll see how it holds up. > > > https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018XZYFK4 > > > > > > In order to avoid removing the diamondboard cap and replacing the line > > from > > > above while on the trailer, I took the following approach on the water > > this > > > morning and it worked well. It requires SCUBA gear, or more lung > > capacity > > > than I have to hold my breath. > > > > > > - Extend the centerboard using existing centerboard line to hold in > > > place at an extended position > > > - Put in place a bridle using a line that goes from the fairlead and > > cam > > > cleat on one side of the cabin, run it under the boat and under the > > > diamondboard back up to the matching cam cleat on the other side. > > SCUBA > > > person checks the placement of this bridle line. > > > - Put some extra tension on the bridle line to lift the > diamondboard a > > > few inches so that you have a few inches of slack on the normal > > > diamonboard > > > pennant line. I put on a couple of vice grips on the diamondboard > > > pennant > > > line just where it comes out of the hole as a safety measure in case > > the > > > bridle slipped. > > > - I had to cut the pennant line at the knot above the handle > because I > > > couldn't get the knot untied. At this point, I was committed making > > > this > > > replacement project work. > > > - Remove the handle from the line > > > - Sew the top end of the old line to the bottom end of the new line > > > together (end to end) using normal needle and thread > > > - SCUBA person pulls on the old line underwater and this pulls > through > > > the new line. My pennant line just had a stopper knot and the SCUBA > > guy > > > could pull that through and keep pulling enough extra line through > so > > he > > > could bring up the old line to the surface so we could see the > stopper > > > knot, all the old line and where it attaches to the new line. > > > - Cut the thread that joined the two lines, and tie a stopper knot > in > > > the end of the new line. > > > - While the SCUBA guy goes below to make sure the line runs through, > > > person in cockpit pulls back out the new line until it is to the > point > > > of > > > tension > > > - Thread the handle onto the new line > > > - Tie on a stopper knot above the handle, leaving a the same amount > of > > > extra line that was there on the old line (since we had pulled the > > > diamondboard up a few inches to give extra line to work with). > > > - Test raising the diamondboard. > > > - I left a longer tail on the new line and wrapped it around the > > handle > > > number of times before cutting it so that if I need to make some > > > adjustments in the future I have some extra line to work with > > > - Once satisfied that everything is tied properly and at the > > appropriate > > > length, remove the bridle. > > > - Job done, thank your SCUBA friend for helping! > > > > > > I attached a few photos. > > > > > > Jesse Shumaker > > > S/V Zephyr > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > > Name: OldDBpennant.JPG > > > Type: image/jpeg > > > Size: 73702 bytes > > > Desc: not available > > > URL: < > > > > > > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200830/31a9f4f6/attachment.jpe > > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > > Name: OldDBpennantCleatedNotAllTheWayUp.JPG > > > Type: image/jpeg > > > Size: 48768 bytes > > > Desc: not available > > > URL: < > > > > > > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200830/31a9f4f6/attachment-0001.jpe > > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > > Name: NewDBpennantHandle.JPG > > > Type: image/jpeg > > > Size: 58018 bytes > > > Desc: not available > > > URL: < > > > > > > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200830/31a9f4f6/attachment-0002.jpe > > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > > Name: NewDBpennant.JPG > > > Type: image/jpeg > > > Size: 48591 bytes > > > Desc: not available > > > URL: < > > > > > > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200830/31a9f4f6/attachment-0003.jpe > > > > > > > > > > From chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com Sun Aug 30 22:24:40 2020 From: chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com (Chris Geankoplis) Date: Sun, 30 Aug 2020 22:24:40 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] electric motor raising winch setup In-Reply-To: <9D70F702-7FF4-4F36-A51C-F938A7ABDCA9@gmail.com> References: <9D70F702-7FF4-4F36-A51C-F938A7ABDCA9@gmail.com> Message-ID: Hey Jose, Looks like I've lined up a visit with Mark who is q On Sun, Aug 30, 2020 at 4:14 PM Jose Faraldo-Gomez wrote: > We?re 25 miles south of Annapolis, at Herrington Harbour South. If that?s > convenient enough and tomorrow Monday works for you, we can set up a time. > Email directly? > > Jose > > > On Aug 30, 2020, at 12:45 PM, Chris Geankoplis < > chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com> wrote: > > > > ?Anyone out there in the Baltimore Annapolis area who has an electric > motor > > raising setup. The Red Rhodes I just bought has a broken, > > semi-detached one and I was hoping that I might get a look at a working > one > > in person. Of course mask and social distancing is the fashion > > statement of the day. Thanks! > > Chris Geankoplis > > Enosis > From chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com Sun Aug 30 22:26:21 2020 From: chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com (Chris Geankoplis) Date: Sun, 30 Aug 2020 22:26:21 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] electric motor raising winch setup In-Reply-To: References: <9D70F702-7FF4-4F36-A51C-F938A7ABDCA9@gmail.com> Message-ID: Lets try this again. Looks like I've lined up a visit with Mark who is quite close by. However if for some reason that falls through I will keep your kind offer in mind. Thanks again for the help. Chris Geankoplis Enosis On Sun, Aug 30, 2020 at 10:24 PM Chris Geankoplis wrote: > Hey Jose, > Looks like I've lined up a visit with Mark who is q > > On Sun, Aug 30, 2020 at 4:14 PM Jose Faraldo-Gomez > wrote: > >> We?re 25 miles south of Annapolis, at Herrington Harbour South. If that?s >> convenient enough and tomorrow Monday works for you, we can set up a time. >> Email directly? >> >> Jose >> >> > On Aug 30, 2020, at 12:45 PM, Chris Geankoplis < >> chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com> wrote: >> > >> > ?Anyone out there in the Baltimore Annapolis area who has an electric >> motor >> > raising setup. The Red Rhodes I just bought has a broken, >> > semi-detached one and I was hoping that I might get a look at a working >> one >> > in person. Of course mask and social distancing is the fashion >> > statement of the day. Thanks! >> > Chris Geankoplis >> > Enosis >> > From chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com Sun Aug 30 22:33:26 2020 From: chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com (Chris Geankoplis) Date: Sun, 30 Aug 2020 22:33:26 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] electric motor raising winch setup In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Chris Here looks like several kind people have offered me a look-see at their outboard bracket raising systems so I am taken care of. Thanks to the list for all their help. Chris Geankoplis Enosis On Sun, Aug 30, 2020 at 12:44 PM Chris Geankoplis wrote: > Anyone out there in the Baltimore Annapolis area who has an electric motor > raising setup. The Red Rhodes I just bought has a broken, > semi-detached one and I was hoping that I might get a look at a working one > in person. Of course mask and social distancing is the fashion > statement of the day. Thanks! > Chris Geankoplis > Enosis > From mike at traildesign.com Sun Aug 30 22:53:19 2020 From: mike at traildesign.com (Mike Riter) Date: Sun, 30 Aug 2020 22:53:19 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Split Ring Alternative? In-Reply-To: References: <1598710719491-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: Tom, I trailer sail about twice a month on average and set up/take down every time. I?ve got the routine down to 45 min from arrival at the ramp to splash. Like you, I?m all about more efficient ways (without sacrificing safety) to set up and take down. I?m using 1/4?x 3/4? ball lock quick pins in all 4 short stays. On the outer stays and forestay I still use the split ring clips, but I bent 3/8? of the inner part of the ring nearly straight with a pair of pliers so it?s much easier to start. I tensioned all my stays properly a year ago then marked all the turnbuckles with black permanent marker. By doing this I can quickly get all the stays close to the proper tension by turning them until they touch the black marks. A quick pull on the stays once everything is rigged lets me adjust everything quickly. The Velcro wrapped pins work great, but they take time to put on and take off. I use SS Cotter pins, one in each turnbuckle and I?ve never had a problem with one walking. Once the mast is down I coil all the forward lines then shove them into a stuff sack (like the ones used for camping). This keeps them together and out of the sun. It?s quick and only requires one tie to hold all the forward lines. I keep the furling line for the head sail rigged all the time. I tie the end off on the hand rail to make sure it?s secured against the wind when trailering. There are a few more things, but that?s a good bit of it. Mike Riter SV EmmaB On Sun, Aug 30, 2020 at 10:21 PM Tom Van Heule < tom.vanheule at intrinsicprograms.com> wrote: > All good. At least we all know what fun is!! > > > > This is ... > > > > > > On Sun, Aug 30, 2020, 8:39 PM Jesse Shumaker < > jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com> > > wrote: > > > > > Tom, thanks for clarifying. I had misunderstood. I can understand the > > > need for efficiency if you are stepping the mast for each sail. I only > do > > > that a few times a season so I'm not so fast :) > > > > > > Jesse Shumaker > > > S/V Zephyr > > > > > > On Sun, Aug 30, 2020, 7:46 PM Tom Van Heule < > > > tom.vanheule at intrinsicprograms.com> wrote: > > > > > > > Jesse, > > > > These are good suggestion around solving turnbuckles walking. The guys > > > are > > > > looking at the splitting ring < like a keychain ring but not absolute > > > ahit> > > > > that hold the pin in the tunrbuckle and chainstay. You'd better have > > > good > > > > finger nails, or patience, or both... Don't drop one. Lol > > > > > > > > I have to mast up Everytime I sail, I'd love to use a few sets of good > > > snap > > > > pins / quick pins on the two sets of cabin stays. It would save ?? > > > minutes > > > > in setup and teardown. > > > > > > > > I am also interested in a quick release stay system for those of us in > > > > trailer situations. > > > > > > > > Tom > > > > > > > > On Sun, Aug 30, 2020, 7:37 PM Jesse Shumaker < > > > > jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com> > > > > wrote: > > > > > > > > > I use velcro wrap pins to lock my turnbuckles. The prior owner had > > > done > > > > > that as well but the velcro had worn out over time from being in the > > > > > elements. I ordered replacements: C.SHERMAN JOHNSON brand model > > > > WRAPC2-P. > > > > > I put PVC pipe over my turnbuckles to avoid chafe on the sails and I > > > > think > > > > > it will also help with the longevity of the velcro wrap pins. > > > > > https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GC4BPQJ > > > > > > > > > > Jesse Shumaker > > > > > S/V Zephyr > > > > > > > > > > On Sat, Aug 29, 2020 at 9:18 AM JeffSmith > > > > > wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > I hate using split rings or "safety pins" to secure clevis pins! > > > > > > Has anyone had real life experience with: > > > > > > > > > > > > SUNCOR QUICK LOCK PIN 1/4" X 1/2" 316 S/S > > > SCR-S0375-0715 > > > > > > QUICK LOCK PIN > > > > > > 1/4" X 1/2" 316 S/S 173204 In Stock 15.29 > > > > > > > > > > > > These are from Hamilton Marine. > > > > > > WLL shear load is 4,600 lbs, which should be more than adequate and > > > as > > > > > long > > > > > > as the clevis pin holder hole is not enlarged, should be secure. > > > > > > > > > > > > I figure that with the redundancy of stays on the R22, one failure > > > > would > > > > > > not > > > > > > be catastrophic. > > > > > > Pricey for 10 of them, but worth it in frustration abatement. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ----- > > > > > > Jeff Smith > > > > > > 2009 R22 #101 RADIANT > > > > > > Atlantic Highlands Municpal Harbor > > > > > > Atlantic Highlands, NJ > > > > > > > > > > > > -- > > > > > > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > -- Michael Riter President, Trail Design Specialists, Inc. Lead Instructor, Trail Master and mechanized training mike at traildesign.com 678-410-8021 From mike at traildesign.com Sun Aug 30 23:05:32 2020 From: mike at traildesign.com (Mike Riter) Date: Sun, 30 Aug 2020 23:05:32 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] on the water replacement of diamondboard pennant line In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: That?s brilliant Jesse! Mike Riter SV EmmaB On Sun, Aug 30, 2020 at 10:23 PM Tom Van Heule < tom.vanheule at intrinsicprograms.com> wrote: > That's very helpful. I see. Need to have the board down enough to access > > the knot. > > > > Thanks Jesse. > > > > On Sun, Aug 30, 2020, 8:46 PM Jesse Shumaker < > jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com> > > wrote: > > > > > Hi Tom, you can't access the attachment point on the DB from underneath > > > when the boat is on the trailer because the DB is retracted and that part > > > is inside the trunk. From what I've read on other posts, when the boat > is > > > on the trailer, you can take off the gasket on top of the keel and > replace > > > the pennant from above. From the stories on that topic, it sounds like > > > that process involves a lot of screws/bolts and typically some salty > > > language. > > > > > > Jesse Shumaker > > > S/V Zephyr > > > > > > On Sun, Aug 30, 2020, 7:39 PM Tom Van Heule < > > > tom.vanheule at intrinsicprograms.com> wrote: > > > > > > > Great write up Jesse. > > > > This makes logical sense. So if you weren't scuba you could do this on > > > the > > > > trailer too I'd guess? > > > > > > > > On Sun, Aug 30, 2020, 7:31 PM Jesse Shumaker < > > > > jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com> > > > > wrote: > > > > > > > > > As noted in some prior posts, my diamondboard pennant line was > starting > > > > to > > > > > wear through at the point where it was cleated while the diamondboard > > > was > > > > > pulled up. > > > > > > > > > > My R22 is a 1991 that was refurbished in 2013. This vintage has the > > > > > diamondboard pennant line that runs straight through without any > blocks > > > > > involved. After it was replaced, I measured the old pennant line and > > > it > > > > > was 53" from the knot on the bottom to the knot above the handle. > For > > > a > > > > > replacement line, I purchased a 25' (much longer than needed - more > on > > > > that > > > > > in a minute) length of 1/4" Paracord. It appears to have a very > > > durable > > > > > jacket and plenty of strength. We'll see how it holds up. > > > > > https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018XZYFK4 > > > > > > > > > > In order to avoid removing the diamondboard cap and replacing the > line > > > > from > > > > > above while on the trailer, I took the following approach on the > water > > > > this > > > > > morning and it worked well. It requires SCUBA gear, or more lung > > > > capacity > > > > > than I have to hold my breath. > > > > > > > > > > - Extend the centerboard using existing centerboard line to hold > in > > > > > place at an extended position > > > > > - Put in place a bridle using a line that goes from the fairlead > and > > > > cam > > > > > cleat on one side of the cabin, run it under the boat and under > the > > > > > diamondboard back up to the matching cam cleat on the other side. > > > > SCUBA > > > > > person checks the placement of this bridle line. > > > > > - Put some extra tension on the bridle line to lift the > > > diamondboard a > > > > > few inches so that you have a few inches of slack on the normal > > > > > diamonboard > > > > > pennant line. I put on a couple of vice grips on the diamondboard > > > > > pennant > > > > > line just where it comes out of the hole as a safety measure in > case > > > > the > > > > > bridle slipped. > > > > > - I had to cut the pennant line at the knot above the handle > > > because I > > > > > couldn't get the knot untied. At this point, I was committed > making > > > > > this > > > > > replacement project work. > > > > > - Remove the handle from the line > > > > > - Sew the top end of the old line to the bottom end of the new > line > > > > > together (end to end) using normal needle and thread > > > > > - SCUBA person pulls on the old line underwater and this pulls > > > through > > > > > the new line. My pennant line just had a stopper knot and the > SCUBA > > > > guy > > > > > could pull that through and keep pulling enough extra line through > > > so > > > > he > > > > > could bring up the old line to the surface so we could see the > > > stopper > > > > > knot, all the old line and where it attaches to the new line. > > > > > - Cut the thread that joined the two lines, and tie a stopper knot > > > in > > > > > the end of the new line. > > > > > - While the SCUBA guy goes below to make sure the line runs > through, > > > > > person in cockpit pulls back out the new line until it is to the > > > point > > > > > of > > > > > tension > > > > > - Thread the handle onto the new line > > > > > - Tie on a stopper knot above the handle, leaving a the same > amount > > > of > > > > > extra line that was there on the old line (since we had pulled the > > > > > diamondboard up a few inches to give extra line to work with). > > > > > - Test raising the diamondboard. > > > > > - I left a longer tail on the new line and wrapped it around the > > > > handle > > > > > number of times before cutting it so that if I need to make some > > > > > adjustments in the future I have some extra line to work with > > > > > - Once satisfied that everything is tied properly and at the > > > > appropriate > > > > > length, remove the bridle. > > > > > - Job done, thank your SCUBA friend for helping! > > > > > > > > > > I attached a few photos. > > > > > > > > > > Jesse Shumaker > > > > > S/V Zephyr > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > > > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > > > > Name: OldDBpennant.JPG > > > > > Type: image/jpeg > > > > > Size: 73702 bytes > > > > > Desc: not available > > > > > URL: < > > > > > > > > > > > > > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200830/31a9f4f6/attachment.jpe > > > > > > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > > > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > > > > Name: OldDBpennantCleatedNotAllTheWayUp.JPG > > > > > Type: image/jpeg > > > > > Size: 48768 bytes > > > > > Desc: not available > > > > > URL: < > > > > > > > > > > > > > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200830/31a9f4f6/attachment-0001.jpe > > > > > > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > > > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > > > > Name: NewDBpennantHandle.JPG > > > > > Type: image/jpeg > > > > > Size: 58018 bytes > > > > > Desc: not available > > > > > URL: < > > > > > > > > > > > > > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200830/31a9f4f6/attachment-0002.jpe > > > > > > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > > > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > > > > Name: NewDBpennant.JPG > > > > > Type: image/jpeg > > > > > Size: 48591 bytes > > > > > Desc: not available > > > > > URL: < > > > > > > > > > > > > > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200830/31a9f4f6/attachment-0003.jpe > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > -- Michael Riter President, Trail Design Specialists, Inc. Lead Instructor, Trail Master and mechanized training mike at traildesign.com 678-410-8021 From rodellner at mac.com Mon Aug 31 11:15:38 2020 From: rodellner at mac.com (Rod Ellner) Date: Mon, 31 Aug 2020 10:15:38 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Split Ring Alternative? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1B25BEBD-639A-4359-AA77-D465952D1CCE@mac.com> Try putting nuts on the turnbuckle threads. Tighten the nuts to the turnbuckle. Left hand and right hand nuts as you know. 15-20 years No problems. Sent from my iPhone > On Aug 30, 2020, at 9:21 PM, Tom Van Heule wrote: > > ?All good. At least we all know what fun is!! > > This is ... > > >> On Sun, Aug 30, 2020, 8:39 PM Jesse Shumaker >> wrote: >> >> Tom, thanks for clarifying. I had misunderstood. I can understand the >> need for efficiency if you are stepping the mast for each sail. I only do >> that a few times a season so I'm not so fast :) >> >> Jesse Shumaker >> S/V Zephyr >> >> On Sun, Aug 30, 2020, 7:46 PM Tom Van Heule < >> tom.vanheule at intrinsicprograms.com> wrote: >> >>> Jesse, >>> These are good suggestion around solving turnbuckles walking. The guys >> are >>> looking at the splitting ring < like a keychain ring but not absolute >> ahit> >>> that hold the pin in the tunrbuckle and chainstay. You'd better have >> good >>> finger nails, or patience, or both... Don't drop one. Lol >>> >>> I have to mast up Everytime I sail, I'd love to use a few sets of good >> snap >>> pins / quick pins on the two sets of cabin stays. It would save ?? >> minutes >>> in setup and teardown. >>> >>> I am also interested in a quick release stay system for those of us in >>> trailer situations. >>> >>> Tom >>> >>> On Sun, Aug 30, 2020, 7:37 PM Jesse Shumaker < >>> jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com> >>> wrote: >>> >>>> I use velcro wrap pins to lock my turnbuckles. The prior owner had >> done >>>> that as well but the velcro had worn out over time from being in the >>>> elements. I ordered replacements: C.SHERMAN JOHNSON brand model >>> WRAPC2-P. >>>> I put PVC pipe over my turnbuckles to avoid chafe on the sails and I >>> think >>>> it will also help with the longevity of the velcro wrap pins. >>>> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GC4BPQJ >>>> >>>> Jesse Shumaker >>>> S/V Zephyr >>>> >>>> On Sat, Aug 29, 2020 at 9:18 AM JeffSmith >>>> wrote: >>>> >>>>> I hate using split rings or "safety pins" to secure clevis pins! >>>>> Has anyone had real life experience with: >>>>> >>>>> SUNCOR QUICK LOCK PIN 1/4" X 1/2" 316 S/S >> SCR-S0375-0715 >>>>> QUICK LOCK PIN >>>>> 1/4" X 1/2" 316 S/S 173204 In Stock 15.29 >>>>> >>>>> These are from Hamilton Marine. >>>>> WLL shear load is 4,600 lbs, which should be more than adequate and >> as >>>> long >>>>> as the clevis pin holder hole is not enlarged, should be secure. >>>>> >>>>> I figure that with the redundancy of stays on the R22, one failure >>> would >>>>> not >>>>> be catastrophic. >>>>> Pricey for 10 of them, but worth it in frustration abatement. >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> ----- >>>>> Jeff Smith >>>>> 2009 R22 #101 RADIANT >>>>> Atlantic Highlands Municpal Harbor >>>>> Atlantic Highlands, NJ >>>>> >>>>> -- >>>>> Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ >>>>> >>>> >>> >> From lgioia at yahoo.com Mon Aug 31 22:32:39 2020 From: lgioia at yahoo.com (Larry Gioia) Date: Mon, 31 Aug 2020 22:32:39 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Saildrive In-Reply-To: <1598835785997-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1598835785997-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <9EEF023E-F90E-48F5-91A5-79DD32F83C56@yahoo.com> Ah okay, long shaft - thank you! Can the tiller handle rotate upwards to some extent while operating? I find that necessary for my Merc 3.5 > On Aug 30, 2020, at 9:03 PM, CPBoyce wrote: > > ?Travel 1003 long shaft as our backup. Will try to send photos tomorrow. > > Celia > > > > ----- > The Boyces > s/v Take Five (aka the Electric Rhodes) > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/