From oehecht at gmail.com Mon Jun 1 06:13:08 2020 From: oehecht at gmail.com (Olivier Hecht) Date: Mon, 1 Jun 2020 06:13:08 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Emergency diamondboard help...at boatyard for only a little while longer In-Reply-To: References: <8cf82e5a-17e1-1073-a097-bd325b783960@atlanticbb.net> <597b27fb-7b94-6e5f-b84a-92341acddbb1@generalboats.com> Message-ID: Anyone have pictures of how the ?scrap hose pieces? fit around the diamondboard? On Sat, May 30, 2020 at 2:19 PM Olivier Hecht wrote: > I was also not shocked to not find the ?two scraps of garden hose? I?ve > heard so much about. I think they dampen noise and movement near the pivot > of the board, and my board does ?rattle? while sailing whenever it?s not > fully loaded. Does anyone have pictures of how/where those pieces of hose > should go when I reassemble everything? Thanks again! > > On Sat, May 30, 2020 at 11:51 AM Olivier Hecht wrote: > >> Got the board pulled today and the local yard should be able to repair it >> this week. Here is a picture in case anyone is curious about the layers of >> construction. >> >> >> >> On Mon, May 25, 2020 at 12:00 PM Olivier Hecht wrote: >> >>> Thanks Stan. I already have two of those three upgrades and love them >>> but have been thinking about a new tiller at some point! >>> >>> On Mon, May 25, 2020 at 11:02 AM stan wrote: >>> >>>> >>>> Oliver, >>>> >>>> www.rhodes22parts.com has parts for the Rhodes that are not available >>>> from marine suppliers. In the case of your diamond board however I do >>>> think that it would be less costly if you have your current one >>>> repaired >>>> locally. Freight alone for a centerboard can be an item. With all >>>> that >>>> saving how about a new style outhaul car or a fabulous fiberglass >>>> tiller >>>> or the new invention traveler system. >>>> >>>> While you got me to my keyboard, a comment. Every action has an equal >>>> and opposite reaction. Every recycled and new Rhodes has a yoke that >>>> prevents the genoa line from leaving its drum so the energy needed to >>>> pull out the sail is not altered. From a 94 year old perspective every >>>> ounce is an item. For you young bucks the extra force needed to pull >>>> out the genoa with either Mikes or Rogers ingenious tension techniques >>>> would hardly be measurable so a small price to pay. Besides who sails >>>> at 94. >>>> >>>> And Don, if you are listening, I have no recollection of your inquiring >>>> about a rub rail insert replacement. We have those in stock for Boston >>>> Whaler owners since their boats came with red and we are the only ones >>>> who also have that color. But the reflective tape idea sound >>>> interesting? >>>> >>>> On 5/24/20 8:34 PM, Olivier Hecht wrote: >>>> > Hi Stan! It almost looked like that extra piece was glassed in...if >>>> not >>>> > than definitely glued down well. I think I?d damage the hull >>>> interface just >>>> > by removing it. I?m thinking about just enlarging the inner opening >>>> with a >>>> > keyhole saw to allow me to pull the board. I don?t think the slick >>>> surface >>>> > on the laminate gives the gasket the best matings surface >>>> either...that >>>> > might explain my slightly wet bilge. Do you sell new diamond boards, >>>> or is >>>> > it usually more economical to have them repaired locally? >>>> > >>>> > On Sun, May 24, 2020 at 8:17 PM stan wrote: >>>> > >>>> >> Mary Lou, >>>> >> >>>> >> since this is between me and you I am happy to join in to report >>>> what my >>>> >> now occasionally lying eyes are seeing. >>>> >> >>>> >> A prior owner, as is usually the case when someone reports on a >>>> >> ridiculous design fault attributed to GB, sacrificed access to the >>>> cb in >>>> >> the cb trunk in favor of a quick improper fix. >>>> >> >>>> >> The only recourse now for removing the cb is to take off the white >>>> >> whatever it is, throw it away. lift out the cb. Fix what has to be >>>> >> fixed. AND THEN REASSEMBLE THE ENTIRE CB SYSTEM AS GOD AND GB >>>> DESIGNED >>>> >> IT TO BE. >>>> >> >>>> >> >>>> >> On 5/24/20 7:17 PM, Mary Lou Troy wrote: >>>> >>> Hi Olivier, >>>> >>> >>>> >>> The laminate is not standard R22 construction. >>>> >>> >>>> >>> At one point we were going to do something to the board, I forget >>>> >>> what, maybe replace the pennant or get rid of the pully in the >>>> raising >>>> >>> system and had ordered a new gasket from Stan. When we got it apart >>>> >>> and discovered the laminate, we abandoned the project. We asked Stan >>>> >>> about it and via email he basically shrugged his shoulders and said >>>> >>> something to the effect that "that wasn't our repair." It wasn't >>>> >>> leaking, we found another way to do what we were going to do and >>>> >>> forgot about it. In fact I didn't realize I still had the exchange >>>> >>> with Stan in an old email program until now. >>>> >>> >>>> >>> After a bit of back and forth on a photo, Stan's exact words on the >>>> >>> subject from 2003 were: >>>> >>> >>>> >>> "So what I am seeing is a fiberglass "washer" between the top lip of >>>> >>> the trunk and >>>> >>> neoprene gasket. The question then is was there any leakage between >>>> >>> the fiberglass >>>> >>> gasket and the cb trunk lip? If no then I would leave it in place >>>> and >>>> >>> just use a >>>> >>> jib saw to cut on opening in it to match the opening in the cb >>>> trunk - >>>> >>> it should >>>> >>> cut easily since it is probably not very thick If on the other hand >>>> >>> there was >>>> >>> leakage between this element and the cb trunk cap I would do >>>> whatever >>>> >>> is necessary >>>> >>> to pull it off and throw it away and sand smooth the top of the >>>> trunk >>>> >>> lip to >>>> >>> receive the neoprene gasket." >>>> >>> >>>> >>> As I noted above, it wasn't leaking so my recollection is we decided >>>> >>> not to mess with it. >>>> >>> >>>> >>> Sorry this isn't more help. >>>> >>> >>>> >>> Mary Lou >>>> >>> >>>> >>> >>>> >>> On 5/24/2020 6:12 PM, Olivier Hecht wrote: >>>> >>>> My last message with two pics bounced back...hopefully this goes >>>> >>>> through... >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Whoops...sorry. Forgot to attach it! Here they are. That white >>>> piece is >>>> >>>> glued to the boat...I?m sure of it. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> On Sun, May 24, 2020 at 6:02 PM Richard Beytagh < >>>> rbeytagh at gmail.com> >>>> >>>> wrote: >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>>> The pic didn?t come through? >>>> >>>>> >>>> >>>>> On Sun, May 24, 2020 at 5:58 PM Olivier Hecht >>>> >>>>> wrote: >>>> >>>>> >>>> >>>>>> Well the board fell onto the trailer axle since I guess I pulled >>>> >>>>>> the boat >>>> >>>>>> too far forward. Took a chunk out of it so I decided to try to >>>> pull >>>> >>>>>> it. I >>>> >>>>>> just got the cap off after removing ~60 10mm bolts with blind >>>> nuts and >>>> >>>>> now >>>> >>>>>> I can?t access the pivot to remove the board. See pics...the >>>> white >>>> >>>>>> piece >>>> >>>>> of >>>> >>>>>> laminate? seems to be glasses into the hull. I?m afraid to >>>> destroy >>>> >>>>>> it by >>>> >>>>>> prying. Can anyone confirm to me that this piece should be >>>> >>>>>> removable? I >>>> >>>>>> cants see any other way to lift the board out since the pivot is >>>> >>>>>> inaccessible. I?ll be at the boat for an hour more max, then I >>>> have to >>>> >>>>> head >>>> >>>>>> home. Was really hoping to take the board with me! >>>> >>>>>> >>>> >>>>> -- >>>> >>>>> >>>> >>>>> >>>> >>>>> ~~~ _/) ~~~ >>>> >>>>> >>>> >>>>> Richard Beytagh >>>> >>>>> Phone: 828 337 0180 >>>> >>>>> >>>> >>>> -------------- next part -------------- >>>> >>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >>>> >>>> Name: IMG_3661.jpg >>>> >>>> Type: image/jpg >>>> >>>> Size: 2852710 bytes >>>> >>>> Desc: not available >>>> >>>> URL: >>>> >>>> < >>>> >> >>>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200524/1a8b1c27/attachment.jpg >>>> >>> >>>> >>> >>>> >> >>>> >>>> -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_3700.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2017697 bytes Desc: not available URL: From tavares0947 at gmail.com Mon Jun 1 07:01:55 2020 From: tavares0947 at gmail.com (Todd Tavares) Date: Mon, 1 Jun 2020 07:01:55 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Emergency diamondboard help...at boatyard for only a little while longer In-Reply-To: References: <8cf82e5a-17e1-1073-a097-bd325b783960@atlanticbb.net> <597b27fb-7b94-6e5f-b84a-92341acddbb1@generalboats.com> Message-ID: Someone will surely post pictures, but they drop down into the slots on either side of the centerboard, on top of the pin. Todd T. tavares0947 at gmail.com On Mon, Jun 1, 2020, 6:13 AM Olivier Hecht wrote: > Anyone have pictures of how the ?scrap hose pieces? fit around the > diamondboard? > > On Sat, May 30, 2020 at 2:19 PM Olivier Hecht wrote: > > > I was also not shocked to not find the ?two scraps of garden hose? I?ve > > heard so much about. I think they dampen noise and movement near the > pivot > > of the board, and my board does ?rattle? while sailing whenever it?s not > > fully loaded. Does anyone have pictures of how/where those pieces of hose > > should go when I reassemble everything? Thanks again! > > > > On Sat, May 30, 2020 at 11:51 AM Olivier Hecht > wrote: > > > >> Got the board pulled today and the local yard should be able to repair > it > >> this week. Here is a picture in case anyone is curious about the layers > of > >> construction. > >> > >> > >> > >> On Mon, May 25, 2020 at 12:00 PM Olivier Hecht > wrote: > >> > >>> Thanks Stan. I already have two of those three upgrades and love them > >>> but have been thinking about a new tiller at some point! > >>> > >>> On Mon, May 25, 2020 at 11:02 AM stan wrote: > >>> > >>>> > >>>> Oliver, > >>>> > >>>> www.rhodes22parts.com has parts for the Rhodes that are not available > >>>> from marine suppliers. In the case of your diamond board however I do > >>>> think that it would be less costly if you have your current one > >>>> repaired > >>>> locally. Freight alone for a centerboard can be an item. With all > >>>> that > >>>> saving how about a new style outhaul car or a fabulous fiberglass > >>>> tiller > >>>> or the new invention traveler system. > >>>> > >>>> While you got me to my keyboard, a comment. Every action has an equal > >>>> and opposite reaction. Every recycled and new Rhodes has a yoke that > >>>> prevents the genoa line from leaving its drum so the energy needed to > >>>> pull out the sail is not altered. From a 94 year old perspective > every > >>>> ounce is an item. For you young bucks the extra force needed to pull > >>>> out the genoa with either Mikes or Rogers ingenious tension techniques > >>>> would hardly be measurable so a small price to pay. Besides who sails > >>>> at 94. > >>>> > >>>> And Don, if you are listening, I have no recollection of your > inquiring > >>>> about a rub rail insert replacement. We have those in stock for Boston > >>>> Whaler owners since their boats came with red and we are the only ones > >>>> who also have that color. But the reflective tape idea sound > >>>> interesting? > >>>> > >>>> On 5/24/20 8:34 PM, Olivier Hecht wrote: > >>>> > Hi Stan! It almost looked like that extra piece was glassed in...if > >>>> not > >>>> > than definitely glued down well. I think I?d damage the hull > >>>> interface just > >>>> > by removing it. I?m thinking about just enlarging the inner opening > >>>> with a > >>>> > keyhole saw to allow me to pull the board. I don?t think the slick > >>>> surface > >>>> > on the laminate gives the gasket the best matings surface > >>>> either...that > >>>> > might explain my slightly wet bilge. Do you sell new diamond boards, > >>>> or is > >>>> > it usually more economical to have them repaired locally? > >>>> > > >>>> > On Sun, May 24, 2020 at 8:17 PM stan wrote: > >>>> > > >>>> >> Mary Lou, > >>>> >> > >>>> >> since this is between me and you I am happy to join in to report > >>>> what my > >>>> >> now occasionally lying eyes are seeing. > >>>> >> > >>>> >> A prior owner, as is usually the case when someone reports on a > >>>> >> ridiculous design fault attributed to GB, sacrificed access to the > >>>> cb in > >>>> >> the cb trunk in favor of a quick improper fix. > >>>> >> > >>>> >> The only recourse now for removing the cb is to take off the white > >>>> >> whatever it is, throw it away. lift out the cb. Fix what has to be > >>>> >> fixed. AND THEN REASSEMBLE THE ENTIRE CB SYSTEM AS GOD AND GB > >>>> DESIGNED > >>>> >> IT TO BE. > >>>> >> > >>>> >> > >>>> >> On 5/24/20 7:17 PM, Mary Lou Troy wrote: > >>>> >>> Hi Olivier, > >>>> >>> > >>>> >>> The laminate is not standard R22 construction. > >>>> >>> > >>>> >>> At one point we were going to do something to the board, I forget > >>>> >>> what, maybe replace the pennant or get rid of the pully in the > >>>> raising > >>>> >>> system and had ordered a new gasket from Stan. When we got it > apart > >>>> >>> and discovered the laminate, we abandoned the project. We asked > Stan > >>>> >>> about it and via email he basically shrugged his shoulders and > said > >>>> >>> something to the effect that "that wasn't our repair." It wasn't > >>>> >>> leaking, we found another way to do what we were going to do and > >>>> >>> forgot about it. In fact I didn't realize I still had the exchange > >>>> >>> with Stan in an old email program until now. > >>>> >>> > >>>> >>> After a bit of back and forth on a photo, Stan's exact words on > the > >>>> >>> subject from 2003 were: > >>>> >>> > >>>> >>> "So what I am seeing is a fiberglass "washer" between the top lip > of > >>>> >>> the trunk and > >>>> >>> neoprene gasket. The question then is was there any leakage > between > >>>> >>> the fiberglass > >>>> >>> gasket and the cb trunk lip? If no then I would leave it in place > >>>> and > >>>> >>> just use a > >>>> >>> jib saw to cut on opening in it to match the opening in the cb > >>>> trunk - > >>>> >>> it should > >>>> >>> cut easily since it is probably not very thick If on the other > hand > >>>> >>> there was > >>>> >>> leakage between this element and the cb trunk cap I would do > >>>> whatever > >>>> >>> is necessary > >>>> >>> to pull it off and throw it away and sand smooth the top of the > >>>> trunk > >>>> >>> lip to > >>>> >>> receive the neoprene gasket." > >>>> >>> > >>>> >>> As I noted above, it wasn't leaking so my recollection is we > decided > >>>> >>> not to mess with it. > >>>> >>> > >>>> >>> Sorry this isn't more help. > >>>> >>> > >>>> >>> Mary Lou > >>>> >>> > >>>> >>> > >>>> >>> On 5/24/2020 6:12 PM, Olivier Hecht wrote: > >>>> >>>> My last message with two pics bounced back...hopefully this goes > >>>> >>>> through... > >>>> >>>> > >>>> >>>> Whoops...sorry. Forgot to attach it! Here they are. That white > >>>> piece is > >>>> >>>> glued to the boat...I?m sure of it. > >>>> >>>> > >>>> >>>> > >>>> >>>> On Sun, May 24, 2020 at 6:02 PM Richard Beytagh < > >>>> rbeytagh at gmail.com> > >>>> >>>> wrote: > >>>> >>>> > >>>> >>>>> The pic didn?t come through? > >>>> >>>>> > >>>> >>>>> On Sun, May 24, 2020 at 5:58 PM Olivier Hecht < > oehecht at gmail.com> > >>>> >>>>> wrote: > >>>> >>>>> > >>>> >>>>>> Well the board fell onto the trailer axle since I guess I > pulled > >>>> >>>>>> the boat > >>>> >>>>>> too far forward. Took a chunk out of it so I decided to try to > >>>> pull > >>>> >>>>>> it. I > >>>> >>>>>> just got the cap off after removing ~60 10mm bolts with blind > >>>> nuts and > >>>> >>>>> now > >>>> >>>>>> I can?t access the pivot to remove the board. See pics...the > >>>> white > >>>> >>>>>> piece > >>>> >>>>> of > >>>> >>>>>> laminate? seems to be glasses into the hull. I?m afraid to > >>>> destroy > >>>> >>>>>> it by > >>>> >>>>>> prying. Can anyone confirm to me that this piece should be > >>>> >>>>>> removable? I > >>>> >>>>>> cants see any other way to lift the board out since the pivot > is > >>>> >>>>>> inaccessible. I?ll be at the boat for an hour more max, then I > >>>> have to > >>>> >>>>> head > >>>> >>>>>> home. Was really hoping to take the board with me! > >>>> >>>>>> > >>>> >>>>> -- > >>>> >>>>> > >>>> >>>>> > >>>> >>>>> ~~~ _/) ~~~ > >>>> >>>>> > >>>> >>>>> Richard Beytagh > >>>> >>>>> Phone: 828 337 0180 > >>>> >>>>> > >>>> >>>> -------------- next part -------------- > >>>> >>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > >>>> >>>> Name: IMG_3661.jpg > >>>> >>>> Type: image/jpg > >>>> >>>> Size: 2852710 bytes > >>>> >>>> Desc: not available > >>>> >>>> URL: > >>>> >>>> < > >>>> >> > >>>> > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200524/1a8b1c27/attachment.jpg > >>>> >>> > >>>> >>> > >>>> >> > >>>> > >>>> > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: IMG_3700.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 2017697 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200601/3d760085/attachment.jpg > > > From roger_pihlaja at msn.com Mon Jun 1 09:28:17 2020 From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA) Date: Mon, 1 Jun 2020 13:28:17 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] outboard shifter lever extension In-Reply-To: References: <1590873657572-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <017a01d636f1$a793ae20$f6bb0a60$@ca> <018101d63753$5f572c10$1e058430$@ca> <1590938032475-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1590947011040-0.post@n5.nabble.com>, Message-ID: S/V Dynamic Equilibrium has a single lever Honda remote motor control. I located it on the port side gunnel in a location where my sons, then 6 and 3 years old, could stand on the cockpit seat, hold the tiller in their right hand, and the engine controls in their left. A single lever engine control is really intuitive to use, push the lever forward to go forward and pull it back to go in reverse. Even my sons could stand on the seat, be able to see over the cabin doghouse, and have total control. It spoils you for other boats real fast! Roger Pihlaja S/V Dynamic Equilibrium Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Jesse Shumaker Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2020 5:41 PM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] outboard shifter lever extension Wow Chris, that is quite the setup! On Sun, May 31, 2020, 12:43 PM Chris Cowie wrote: > Jesse: > > Below is another option that puts all of the outboard motor controls, > including a pneumatic lift, navigation, gps, radio and windless in one > place. > > > > > > > > > > ----- > Chris Cowie > Voilier Yachts > Sales & Service Representative > www.voilieryachts.com > > 703.717.9041 phone | 202.270.1470 mobile > 10275 Demarr Rd > White Plains, MD 20695 > [ccowie at voilieryachts.com] > > > > > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > From bgarrant at gmail.com Mon Jun 1 10:03:23 2020 From: bgarrant at gmail.com (Bob Garrant) Date: Mon, 1 Jun 2020 10:03:23 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] outboard shifter lever extension In-Reply-To: <018101d63753$5f572c10$1e058430$@ca> References: <1590873657572-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <017a01d636f1$a793ae20$f6bb0a60$@ca> <018101d63753$5f572c10$1e058430$@ca> Message-ID: Graham Great pictures. Thanks very much I hope to push off for first time this season some time this week. Maryland restricted recreational boating just before I could launch my boat. Now I have to tidy up a few items before I head out. Hope you have a great season and thanks again Bob On Sun, May 31, 2020 at 9:57 AM Graham Stewart wrote: > Bob: > > Here are some photos of the shift extension and throttle extensions that I > use. Please excuse the mess as my motor is still in the garage. The > throttle extension is a purchased item. With these items in place I can sit > or stand facing forward while being able to steer, control speed and shift > gears. Another piece of dowel in the handle end makes the tube air tight so > that it floats - just in case you absentmindedly throw the damned thing > overboard - as I have done twice now. > > The tube is 3/4" inside diameter schedule 40 PVC plastic conduit. I made > the hinge first out of an old broom stick that was 7/8" diameter and then > pushed the hinge into the tubes after heating the tube with a heat gun. It > makes a very tight fit but still needs a brad nail to secure the tube to > the dowel. > > I painted the hinge grey so that it would look less like a chunk of > broomstick stuck into the end of a plastic tube. > > Graham Stewart > Agile, Rodes 22, 1976 > Kingston Ontario > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf > Of Bob Garrant > Sent: Saturday, May 30, 2020 10:40 PM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] outboard shifter lever extension > > I would definitely like to see a picture please. I?m planning to extend my > shifter so I would like to have different options to consider. > Thanks > Bob Garrant > S/v Sail la Vie 2000 > Kent Island, MD > > On Sat, May 30, 2020 at 10:17 PM Graham Stewart > wrote: > > > I expect that different motors might require different shifter extension > > styles. I made one using PVC plastic conduit. The inside diameter of the > > conduit fit perfectly over the shifter on the motor. I put a piece about > 8" > > over the shifter and then attached it to a 24" piece with a hinge I made > > using dowel driven into the two parts and then joined with a half lap > join > > with a bolt through the center. > > > > This arrangement has one feature that is both a pro and a con depending > on > > your viewpoint. Because the shifter simply drops over the motors shift > > lever > > it does not need to be attached. This makes it easy to remove by simply > > lifting it up. The fact that it sits over the lever means that it can > > rotate > > and that becomes important in my case as otherwise when I make a sharp > turn > > the shifter will hit the stern rail thereby restricting maneuverability. > > Being able to remove the unit is handy when I raise the motor and in > other > > situations where the extension can get in your way. Because it is a tube > it > > floats if you cap the handle end. The con is that it can come off by > > shifting forward too vigorously. That happened only once and now I know > to > > be less enthusiastic about shifting. > > > > I love being able to bring my boat into dock without the indignity of > > having > > to hang over the stern rail and peer between my legs to see where I am > > going. I am just too old for that. > > > > It works perfectly for my purposes and cost nothing. > > > > I don't have a picture on hand but would be happy to take one if anyone > > would like to see it. > > > > > > Graham Stewart > > Agile, Rodes 22, 1976 > > Kingston Ontario > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On > Behalf > > Of > > Jesse Shumaker > > Sent: Saturday, May 30, 2020 5:21 PM > > To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org > > Subject: [Rhodes22-list] outboard shifter lever extension > > > > Fortunately, I have a slip this year so it is a lot easier to get on the > > water. I've found that maneuvering into a slip requires more precision > > than > > coming up to the T-dock which was I was used to last year. On the T-dock > > you could often find a place to come up into the wind. As I mentioned > in a > > prior post, my wife is also learning how to skipper as well. Reaching > back > > down to shift between forward / neutral / reverse required turning a > round > > to locate and reach the gear shift lever on the outboard. Some brief > > searching on "da list" showed that others have found this a challenge. > > Adding cockpit controls for the outboard is not cheap, so my work around > > was > > to add an extension to the shift lever. I used a 1/2" x 1" piece cut to > > length. I can't recall the exact length but if any one else wants to do > > this they should probably measure on their boat anyway based on their > > outboard to make sure the lever stays under stern rail when raising the > > motor. I attached it with a couple of stainless steel hose clamps. I > > painted the lever and added some white electric tape as a handle. A > > simple, > > cheap (and less than elegant) but functional solution. > > > > I wouldn't be surprised if others have already done this, but I'm just > > sharing in case others might find this helpful. Now I don't have to turn > > around and bend down to operate the shifter lever. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > -- > > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: Shift and throtel extensions.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 115706 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200531/070d08e1/attachment.jpg > > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: Shift extension on motor.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 91311 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200531/070d08e1/attachment-0001.jpg > > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: Shift extension.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 111654 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200531/070d08e1/attachment-0002.jpg > > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: Shift hinge.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 260904 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200531/070d08e1/attachment-0003.jpg > > > From peter at sunnybeeches.com Mon Jun 1 16:30:23 2020 From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg) Date: Mon, 1 Jun 2020 16:30:23 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Rudder Askew In-Reply-To: References: <15B0E70D-1E68-4DA4-8057-672B44F5B5AE@yahoo.com> <1590748646820-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <6E505850-35D8-49E4-ADDB-B7A1801DFA73@sunnybeeches.com> <996FF514-63EA-4862-BEB0-FC345E8E5E73@sunnybeeches.com> <5EE1A03D-FBB6-4881-AB9F-90AF9237018B@sunnybeeches.com> Message-ID: Roger, Sorry to be slow to respond, but my new drone (Mavic Mini) arrived yesterday, so I?ve been a bit distracted. Also, it?s a busy time of year in the vegetable garden. None the less, I did manage to measure and find a center point near the top of the transom, and then estimate a line connecting this point to the center point at the bottom of the transom. I say ?estimate?, because transitioning this line over the rub rail required some eye-balling. The center-to-center line diverges to starboard of the line that is vertical from the bottom center of the transom according to my level. At the upper gudgeon, the divergence is just under 1/8?. I?m not sure what to do with this information. ?Peter > On May 30, 2020, at 5:33 PM, ROGER PIHLAJA wrote: > > Peter, > > The attached picture shows the GBI motor mount on S/V Dynamic Equilibrium?s stern. I installed this motor mount myself, so maybe Stan hangs it on the transom differently than I did. You?re right, the GBI motor mount is a very tall, bulky structure. But, with my wife holding one end of the tape, I was able to snake a tape measure across the transom behind the motor mount to determine the center point. > > Roger Pihlaja > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium > > > From peter at sunnybeeches.com Mon Jun 1 16:35:28 2020 From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg) Date: Mon, 1 Jun 2020 16:35:28 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Please remove me from your forum list. Smooth sailing. Last mango In-Reply-To: <51943EF6-8FEB-4B25-82B7-458A2B9666AE@gmail.com> References: <51943EF6-8FEB-4B25-82B7-458A2B9666AE@gmail.com> Message-ID: <75391912-86DC-4741-8511-6E64045523AD@sunnybeeches.com> Lance, Likely Mike has already addressed your request, but if not, you can unsubscribe by following the simple instructions at the bottom of this web page: http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list Fair Winds, ?Peter From ric at stottarchitecture.com Mon Jun 1 16:39:36 2020 From: ric at stottarchitecture.com (Richard Stott) Date: Mon, 1 Jun 2020 16:39:36 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Emergency diamondboard help...at boatyard for only a little while longer In-Reply-To: References: <8cf82e5a-17e1-1073-a097-bd325b783960@atlanticbb.net> <597b27fb-7b94-6e5f-b84a-92341acddbb1@generalboats.com> Message-ID: HI Todd I don?t have a Diamond board, I have the old style CB. Here are some pics of how it is rigged including the hose pieces. They can be anything, but do not make the diameter too big or they will impede the smoothness of the CB operation (on the old stye ) They do help quiet the banging noise, but they do not prevent it. I?ve taken my CB part 3 times now for various reasons. I don?t want to do that any more. Most recently, I installed a new cap after I destroyed the previous one when the CB entered the cabin. Boating is a sure bet that something will happen the you never, ever expected. More on that coming soon. Ric Dadventure Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP www.stottarchitecture.com Office 631-283-1777 Cell 516-965-3164 > On Jun 1, 2020, at 7:01 AM, Todd Tavares wrote: > > Someone will surely post pictures, but they drop down into the slots on > either side of the centerboard, on top of the pin. > > Todd T. > > tavares0947 at gmail.com > > On Mon, Jun 1, 2020, 6:13 AM Olivier Hecht wrote: > >> Anyone have pictures of how the ?scrap hose pieces? fit around the >> diamondboard? >> >> On Sat, May 30, 2020 at 2:19 PM Olivier Hecht wrote: >> >>> I was also not shocked to not find the ?two scraps of garden hose? I?ve >>> heard so much about. I think they dampen noise and movement near the >> pivot >>> of the board, and my board does ?rattle? while sailing whenever it?s not >>> fully loaded. Does anyone have pictures of how/where those pieces of hose >>> should go when I reassemble everything? Thanks again! >>> >>> On Sat, May 30, 2020 at 11:51 AM Olivier Hecht >> wrote: >>> >>>> Got the board pulled today and the local yard should be able to repair >> it >>>> this week. Here is a picture in case anyone is curious about the layers >> of >>>> construction. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> On Mon, May 25, 2020 at 12:00 PM Olivier Hecht >> wrote: >>>> >>>>> Thanks Stan. I already have two of those three upgrades and love them >>>>> but have been thinking about a new tiller at some point! >>>>> >>>>> On Mon, May 25, 2020 at 11:02 AM stan wrote: >>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> Oliver, >>>>>> >>>>>> www.rhodes22parts.com has parts for the Rhodes that are not available >>>>>> from marine suppliers. In the case of your diamond board however I do >>>>>> think that it would be less costly if you have your current one >>>>>> repaired >>>>>> locally. Freight alone for a centerboard can be an item. With all >>>>>> that >>>>>> saving how about a new style outhaul car or a fabulous fiberglass >>>>>> tiller >>>>>> or the new invention traveler system. >>>>>> >>>>>> While you got me to my keyboard, a comment. Every action has an equal >>>>>> and opposite reaction. Every recycled and new Rhodes has a yoke that >>>>>> prevents the genoa line from leaving its drum so the energy needed to >>>>>> pull out the sail is not altered. From a 94 year old perspective >> every >>>>>> ounce is an item. For you young bucks the extra force needed to pull >>>>>> out the genoa with either Mikes or Rogers ingenious tension techniques >>>>>> would hardly be measurable so a small price to pay. Besides who sails >>>>>> at 94. >>>>>> >>>>>> And Don, if you are listening, I have no recollection of your >> inquiring >>>>>> about a rub rail insert replacement. We have those in stock for Boston >>>>>> Whaler owners since their boats came with red and we are the only ones >>>>>> who also have that color. But the reflective tape idea sound >>>>>> interesting? >>>>>> >>>>>> On 5/24/20 8:34 PM, Olivier Hecht wrote: >>>>>>> Hi Stan! It almost looked like that extra piece was glassed in...if >>>>>> not >>>>>>> than definitely glued down well. I think I?d damage the hull >>>>>> interface just >>>>>>> by removing it. I?m thinking about just enlarging the inner opening >>>>>> with a >>>>>>> keyhole saw to allow me to pull the board. I don?t think the slick >>>>>> surface >>>>>>> on the laminate gives the gasket the best matings surface >>>>>> either...that >>>>>>> might explain my slightly wet bilge. Do you sell new diamond boards, >>>>>> or is >>>>>>> it usually more economical to have them repaired locally? >>>>>>> >>>>>>> On Sun, May 24, 2020 at 8:17 PM stan wrote: >>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Mary Lou, >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> since this is between me and you I am happy to join in to report >>>>>> what my >>>>>>>> now occasionally lying eyes are seeing. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> A prior owner, as is usually the case when someone reports on a >>>>>>>> ridiculous design fault attributed to GB, sacrificed access to the >>>>>> cb in >>>>>>>> the cb trunk in favor of a quick improper fix. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> The only recourse now for removing the cb is to take off the white >>>>>>>> whatever it is, throw it away. lift out the cb. Fix what has to be >>>>>>>> fixed. AND THEN REASSEMBLE THE ENTIRE CB SYSTEM AS GOD AND GB >>>>>> DESIGNED >>>>>>>> IT TO BE. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> On 5/24/20 7:17 PM, Mary Lou Troy wrote: >>>>>>>>> Hi Olivier, >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> The laminate is not standard R22 construction. >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> At one point we were going to do something to the board, I forget >>>>>>>>> what, maybe replace the pennant or get rid of the pully in the >>>>>> raising >>>>>>>>> system and had ordered a new gasket from Stan. When we got it >> apart >>>>>>>>> and discovered the laminate, we abandoned the project. We asked >> Stan >>>>>>>>> about it and via email he basically shrugged his shoulders and >> said >>>>>>>>> something to the effect that "that wasn't our repair." It wasn't >>>>>>>>> leaking, we found another way to do what we were going to do and >>>>>>>>> forgot about it. In fact I didn't realize I still had the exchange >>>>>>>>> with Stan in an old email program until now. >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> After a bit of back and forth on a photo, Stan's exact words on >> the >>>>>>>>> subject from 2003 were: >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> "So what I am seeing is a fiberglass "washer" between the top lip >> of >>>>>>>>> the trunk and >>>>>>>>> neoprene gasket. The question then is was there any leakage >> between >>>>>>>>> the fiberglass >>>>>>>>> gasket and the cb trunk lip? If no then I would leave it in place >>>>>> and >>>>>>>>> just use a >>>>>>>>> jib saw to cut on opening in it to match the opening in the cb >>>>>> trunk - >>>>>>>>> it should >>>>>>>>> cut easily since it is probably not very thick If on the other >> hand >>>>>>>>> there was >>>>>>>>> leakage between this element and the cb trunk cap I would do >>>>>> whatever >>>>>>>>> is necessary >>>>>>>>> to pull it off and throw it away and sand smooth the top of the >>>>>> trunk >>>>>>>>> lip to >>>>>>>>> receive the neoprene gasket." >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> As I noted above, it wasn't leaking so my recollection is we >> decided >>>>>>>>> not to mess with it. >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> Sorry this isn't more help. >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> Mary Lou >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> On 5/24/2020 6:12 PM, Olivier Hecht wrote: >>>>>>>>>> My last message with two pics bounced back...hopefully this goes >>>>>>>>>> through... >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> Whoops...sorry. Forgot to attach it! Here they are. That white >>>>>> piece is >>>>>>>>>> glued to the boat...I?m sure of it. >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> On Sun, May 24, 2020 at 6:02 PM Richard Beytagh < >>>>>> rbeytagh at gmail.com> >>>>>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> The pic didn?t come through? >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> On Sun, May 24, 2020 at 5:58 PM Olivier Hecht < >> oehecht at gmail.com> >>>>>>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> Well the board fell onto the trailer axle since I guess I >> pulled >>>>>>>>>>>> the boat >>>>>>>>>>>> too far forward. Took a chunk out of it so I decided to try to >>>>>> pull >>>>>>>>>>>> it. I >>>>>>>>>>>> just got the cap off after removing ~60 10mm bolts with blind >>>>>> nuts and >>>>>>>>>>> now >>>>>>>>>>>> I can?t access the pivot to remove the board. See pics...the >>>>>> white >>>>>>>>>>>> piece >>>>>>>>>>> of >>>>>>>>>>>> laminate? seems to be glasses into the hull. I?m afraid to >>>>>> destroy >>>>>>>>>>>> it by >>>>>>>>>>>> prying. Can anyone confirm to me that this piece should be >>>>>>>>>>>> removable? I >>>>>>>>>>>> cants see any other way to lift the board out since the pivot >> is >>>>>>>>>>>> inaccessible. I?ll be at the boat for an hour more max, then I >>>>>> have to >>>>>>>>>>> head >>>>>>>>>>>> home. Was really hoping to take the board with me! >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> -- >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> ~~~ _/) ~~~ >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> Richard Beytagh >>>>>>>>>>> Phone: 828 337 0180 >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> -------------- next part -------------- >>>>>>>>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >>>>>>>>>> Name: IMG_3661.jpg >>>>>>>>>> Type: image/jpg >>>>>>>>>> Size: 2852710 bytes >>>>>>>>>> Desc: not available >>>>>>>>>> URL: >>>>>>>>>> < >>>>>>>> >>>>>> >> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200524/1a8b1c27/attachment.jpg >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >> -------------- next part -------------- >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >> Name: IMG_3700.jpg >> Type: image/jpeg >> Size: 2017697 bytes >> Desc: not available >> URL: < >> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200601/3d760085/attachment.jpg >>> >> From mweisner at ebsmed.com Mon Jun 1 17:17:59 2020 From: mweisner at ebsmed.com (Michael D. Weisner) Date: Mon, 1 Jun 2020 17:17:59 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Please remove me from your forum list. Smooth sailing. Last mango In-Reply-To: <75391912-86DC-4741-8511-6E64045523AD@sunnybeeches.com> References: <51943EF6-8FEB-4B25-82B7-458A2B9666AE@gmail.com> <75391912-86DC-4741-8511-6E64045523AD@sunnybeeches.com> Message-ID: <005701d6385a$211dedf0$6359c9d0$@ebsmed.com> Thanks, Peter. Already done or, shall I say, gone. :- ( I'm still amazed how many new members we have added this year. Maybe it is because more folks have time to look at sailing a Rhodes 22 while they are on "pause". Mike s/v Wind Lass ('91) Nissequogue River, NY I?d rather be sailing :~) -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of Peter Nyberg Sent: Monday, June 1, 2020 4:35 PM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Please remove me from your forum list. Smooth sailing. Last mango Lance, Likely Mike has already addressed your request, but if not, you can unsubscribe by following the simple instructions at the bottom of this web page: http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list Fair Winds, ?Peter= From mweisner at ebsmed.com Mon Jun 1 17:19:16 2020 From: mweisner at ebsmed.com (Michael D. Weisner) Date: Mon, 1 Jun 2020 17:19:16 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Emergency diamondboard help...at boatyard for only a little while longer In-Reply-To: References: <8cf82e5a-17e1-1073-a097-bd325b783960@atlanticbb.net> <597b27fb-7b94-6e5f-b84a-92341acddbb1@generalboats.com> Message-ID: <005801d6385a$4f2e3a10$ed8aae30$@ebsmed.com> Ric, I love the phrase " when the CB entered the cabin." Mike s/v Wind Lass ('91) Nissequogue River, NY I?d rather be sailing :~) -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of Richard Stott Sent: Monday, June 1, 2020 4:40 PM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Emergency diamondboard help...at boatyard for only a little while longer HI Todd I don?t have a Diamond board, I have the old style CB. Here are some pics of how it is rigged including the hose pieces. They can be anything, but do not make the diameter too big or they will impede the smoothness of the CB operation (on the old stye ) They do help quiet the banging noise, but they do not prevent it. I?ve taken my CB part 3 times now for various reasons. I don?t want to do that any more. Most recently, I installed a new cap after I destroyed the previous one when the CB entered the cabin. Boating is a sure bet that something will happen the you never, ever expected. More on that coming soon. Ric Dadventure Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP www.stottarchitecture.com Office 631-283-1777 Cell 516-965-3164 > On Jun 1, 2020, at 7:01 AM, Todd Tavares wrote: > > Someone will surely post pictures, but they drop down into the slots on > either side of the centerboard, on top of the pin. > > Todd T. > > tavares0947 at gmail.com > > On Mon, Jun 1, 2020, 6:13 AM Olivier Hecht wrote: > >> Anyone have pictures of how the ?scrap hose pieces? fit around the >> diamondboard? >> >> On Sat, May 30, 2020 at 2:19 PM Olivier Hecht wrote: >> >>> I was also not shocked to not find the ?two scraps of garden hose? I?ve >>> heard so much about. I think they dampen noise and movement near the >> pivot >>> of the board, and my board does ?rattle? while sailing whenever it?s not >>> fully loaded. Does anyone have pictures of how/where those pieces of hose >>> should go when I reassemble everything? Thanks again! >>> >>> On Sat, May 30, 2020 at 11:51 AM Olivier Hecht >> wrote: >>> >>>> Got the board pulled today and the local yard should be able to repair >> it >>>> this week. Here is a picture in case anyone is curious about the layers >> of >>>> construction. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> On Mon, May 25, 2020 at 12:00 PM Olivier Hecht >> wrote: >>>> >>>>> Thanks Stan. I already have two of those three upgrades and love them >>>>> but have been thinking about a new tiller at some point! >>>>> >>>>> On Mon, May 25, 2020 at 11:02 AM stan wrote: >>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> Oliver, >>>>>> >>>>>> www.rhodes22parts.com has parts for the Rhodes that are not available >>>>>> from marine suppliers. In the case of your diamond board however I do >>>>>> think that it would be less costly if you have your current one >>>>>> repaired >>>>>> locally. Freight alone for a centerboard can be an item. With all >>>>>> that >>>>>> saving how about a new style outhaul car or a fabulous fiberglass >>>>>> tiller >>>>>> or the new invention traveler system. >>>>>> >>>>>> While you got me to my keyboard, a comment. Every action has an equal >>>>>> and opposite reaction. Every recycled and new Rhodes has a yoke that >>>>>> prevents the genoa line from leaving its drum so the energy needed to >>>>>> pull out the sail is not altered. From a 94 year old perspective >> every >>>>>> ounce is an item. For you young bucks the extra force needed to pull >>>>>> out the genoa with either Mikes or Rogers ingenious tension techniques >>>>>> would hardly be measurable so a small price to pay. Besides who sails >>>>>> at 94. >>>>>> >>>>>> And Don, if you are listening, I have no recollection of your >> inquiring >>>>>> about a rub rail insert replacement. We have those in stock for Boston >>>>>> Whaler owners since their boats came with red and we are the only ones >>>>>> who also have that color. But the reflective tape idea sound >>>>>> interesting? >>>>>> >>>>>> On 5/24/20 8:34 PM, Olivier Hecht wrote: >>>>>>> Hi Stan! It almost looked like that extra piece was glassed in...if >>>>>> not >>>>>>> than definitely glued down well. I think I?d damage the hull >>>>>> interface just >>>>>>> by removing it. I?m thinking about just enlarging the inner opening >>>>>> with a >>>>>>> keyhole saw to allow me to pull the board. I don?t think the slick >>>>>> surface >>>>>>> on the laminate gives the gasket the best matings surface >>>>>> either...that >>>>>>> might explain my slightly wet bilge. Do you sell new diamond boards, >>>>>> or is >>>>>>> it usually more economical to have them repaired locally? >>>>>>> >>>>>>> On Sun, May 24, 2020 at 8:17 PM stan wrote: >>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Mary Lou, >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> since this is between me and you I am happy to join in to report >>>>>> what my >>>>>>>> now occasionally lying eyes are seeing. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> A prior owner, as is usually the case when someone reports on a >>>>>>>> ridiculous design fault attributed to GB, sacrificed access to the >>>>>> cb in >>>>>>>> the cb trunk in favor of a quick improper fix. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> The only recourse now for removing the cb is to take off the white >>>>>>>> whatever it is, throw it away. lift out the cb. Fix what has to be >>>>>>>> fixed. AND THEN REASSEMBLE THE ENTIRE CB SYSTEM AS GOD AND GB >>>>>> DESIGNED >>>>>>>> IT TO BE. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> On 5/24/20 7:17 PM, Mary Lou Troy wrote: >>>>>>>>> Hi Olivier, >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> The laminate is not standard R22 construction. >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> At one point we were going to do something to the board, I forget >>>>>>>>> what, maybe replace the pennant or get rid of the pully in the >>>>>> raising >>>>>>>>> system and had ordered a new gasket from Stan. When we got it >> apart >>>>>>>>> and discovered the laminate, we abandoned the project. We asked >> Stan >>>>>>>>> about it and via email he basically shrugged his shoulders and >> said >>>>>>>>> something to the effect that "that wasn't our repair." It wasn't >>>>>>>>> leaking, we found another way to do what we were going to do and >>>>>>>>> forgot about it. In fact I didn't realize I still had the exchange >>>>>>>>> with Stan in an old email program until now. >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> After a bit of back and forth on a photo, Stan's exact words on >> the >>>>>>>>> subject from 2003 were: >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> "So what I am seeing is a fiberglass "washer" between the top lip >> of >>>>>>>>> the trunk and >>>>>>>>> neoprene gasket. The question then is was there any leakage >> between >>>>>>>>> the fiberglass >>>>>>>>> gasket and the cb trunk lip? If no then I would leave it in place >>>>>> and >>>>>>>>> just use a >>>>>>>>> jib saw to cut on opening in it to match the opening in the cb >>>>>> trunk - >>>>>>>>> it should >>>>>>>>> cut easily since it is probably not very thick If on the other >> hand >>>>>>>>> there was >>>>>>>>> leakage between this element and the cb trunk cap I would do >>>>>> whatever >>>>>>>>> is necessary >>>>>>>>> to pull it off and throw it away and sand smooth the top of the >>>>>> trunk >>>>>>>>> lip to >>>>>>>>> receive the neoprene gasket." >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> As I noted above, it wasn't leaking so my recollection is we >> decided >>>>>>>>> not to mess with it. >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> Sorry this isn't more help. >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> Mary Lou >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> On 5/24/2020 6:12 PM, Olivier Hecht wrote: >>>>>>>>>> My last message with two pics bounced back...hopefully this goes >>>>>>>>>> through... >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> Whoops...sorry. Forgot to attach it! Here they are. That white >>>>>> piece is >>>>>>>>>> glued to the boat...I?m sure of it. >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> On Sun, May 24, 2020 at 6:02 PM Richard Beytagh < >>>>>> rbeytagh at gmail.com> >>>>>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> The pic didn?t come through? >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> On Sun, May 24, 2020 at 5:58 PM Olivier Hecht < >> oehecht at gmail.com> >>>>>>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> Well the board fell onto the trailer axle since I guess I >> pulled >>>>>>>>>>>> the boat >>>>>>>>>>>> too far forward. Took a chunk out of it so I decided to try to >>>>>> pull >>>>>>>>>>>> it. I >>>>>>>>>>>> just got the cap off after removing ~60 10mm bolts with blind >>>>>> nuts and >>>>>>>>>>> now >>>>>>>>>>>> I can?t access the pivot to remove the board. See pics...the >>>>>> white >>>>>>>>>>>> piece >>>>>>>>>>> of >>>>>>>>>>>> laminate? seems to be glasses into the hull. I?m afraid to >>>>>> destroy >>>>>>>>>>>> it by >>>>>>>>>>>> prying. Can anyone confirm to me that this piece should be >>>>>>>>>>>> removable? I >>>>>>>>>>>> cants see any other way to lift the board out since the pivot >> is >>>>>>>>>>>> inaccessible. I?ll be at the boat for an hour more max, then I >>>>>> have to >>>>>>>>>>> head >>>>>>>>>>>> home. Was really hoping to take the board with me! >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> -- >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> ~~~ _/) ~~~ >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> Richard Beytagh >>>>>>>>>>> Phone: 828 337 0180 >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> -------------- next part -------------- >>>>>>>>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >>>>>>>>>> Name: IMG_3661.jpg >>>>>>>>>> Type: image/jpg >>>>>>>>>> Size: 2852710 bytes >>>>>>>>>> Desc: not available >>>>>>>>>> URL: >>>>>>>>>> < >>>>>>>> >>>>>> >> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200524/1a8b1c27/attachment.jpg >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >> -------------- next part -------------- >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >> Name: IMG_3700.jpg >> Type: image/jpeg >> Size: 2017697 bytes >> Desc: not available >> URL: < >> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200601/3d760085/attachment.jpg >>> >> From roger_pihlaja at msn.com Mon Jun 1 18:48:10 2020 From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA) Date: Mon, 1 Jun 2020 22:48:10 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Rudder Askew In-Reply-To: References: <15B0E70D-1E68-4DA4-8057-672B44F5B5AE@yahoo.com> <1590748646820-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <6E505850-35D8-49E4-ADDB-B7A1801DFA73@sunnybeeches.com> <996FF514-63EA-4862-BEB0-FC345E8E5E73@sunnybeeches.com> <5EE1A03D-FBB6-4881-AB9F-90AF9237018B@sunnybeeches.com> , Message-ID: Peter, As I was saying before, there is no such thing as square or level or plumb on a boat. No matter what you referenced to ?level? the hull on the jack stands, there is no guarantee that ?level? has anything to do with the centerline of the transom. Therefore, if I were considering relocating the gudgeons, I would use the transom centerline as a reference. Roger Pihlaja S/V Dynamic Equilibrium Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Peter Nyberg Sent: Monday, June 1, 2020 4:31 PM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Rudder Askew Roger, Sorry to be slow to respond, but my new drone (Mavic Mini) arrived yesterday, so I?ve been a bit distracted. Also, it?s a busy time of year in the vegetable garden. None the less, I did manage to measure and find a center point near the top of the transom, and then estimate a line connecting this point to the center point at the bottom of the transom. I say ?estimate?, because transitioning this line over the rub rail required some eye-balling. The center-to-center line diverges to starboard of the line that is vertical from the bottom center of the transom according to my level. At the upper gudgeon, the divergence is just under 1/8?. I?m not sure what to do with this information. ?Peter > On May 30, 2020, at 5:33 PM, ROGER PIHLAJA wrote: > > Peter, > > The attached picture shows the GBI motor mount on S/V Dynamic Equilibrium?s stern. I installed this motor mount myself, so maybe Stan hangs it on the transom differently than I did. You?re right, the GBI motor mount is a very tall, bulky structure. But, with my wife holding one end of the tape, I was able to snake a tape measure across the transom behind the motor mount to determine the center point. > > Roger Pihlaja > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium > > > From oehecht at gmail.com Mon Jun 1 18:52:42 2020 From: oehecht at gmail.com (Olivier Hecht) Date: Mon, 1 Jun 2020 18:52:42 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Emergency diamondboard help...at boatyard for only a little while longer In-Reply-To: <005801d6385a$4f2e3a10$ed8aae30$@ebsmed.com> References: <8cf82e5a-17e1-1073-a097-bd325b783960@atlanticbb.net> <597b27fb-7b94-6e5f-b84a-92341acddbb1@generalboats.com> <005801d6385a$4f2e3a10$ed8aae30$@ebsmed.com> Message-ID: Richard, I didn?t see the picture come through. Are the hose pieces ?intact?, meaning I cut a few inches off of a hose but don?t have to split it lengthwise or do anything else like that? On Mon, Jun 1, 2020 at 5:19 PM Michael D. Weisner wrote: > Ric, > > I love the phrase " when the CB entered the cabin." > > Mike > s/v Wind Lass ('91) > Nissequogue River, NY > I?d rather be sailing :~) > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of > Richard Stott > Sent: Monday, June 1, 2020 4:40 PM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Emergency diamondboard help...at boatyard for > only a little while longer > > HI Todd > I don?t have a Diamond board, I have the old style CB. > Here are some pics of how it is rigged including the hose pieces. > They can be anything, but do not make the diameter too big or they will > impede the smoothness of the CB operation (on the old stye ) They do help > quiet the banging noise, but they do not prevent it. > I?ve taken my CB part 3 times now for various reasons. > I don?t want to do that any more. > Most recently, I installed a new cap after I destroyed the previous one > when the CB entered the cabin. > Boating is a sure bet that something will happen the you never, ever > expected. > More on that coming soon. > Ric > Dadventure > > > Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP > www.stottarchitecture.com > Office 631-283-1777 > Cell 516-965-3164 > > > > > > > On Jun 1, 2020, at 7:01 AM, Todd Tavares wrote: > > > > Someone will surely post pictures, but they drop down into the slots on > > either side of the centerboard, on top of the pin. > > > > Todd T. > > > > tavares0947 at gmail.com > > > > On Mon, Jun 1, 2020, 6:13 AM Olivier Hecht wrote: > > > >> Anyone have pictures of how the ?scrap hose pieces? fit around the > >> diamondboard? > >> > >> On Sat, May 30, 2020 at 2:19 PM Olivier Hecht > wrote: > >> > >>> I was also not shocked to not find the ?two scraps of garden hose? I?ve > >>> heard so much about. I think they dampen noise and movement near the > >> pivot > >>> of the board, and my board does ?rattle? while sailing whenever it?s > not > >>> fully loaded. Does anyone have pictures of how/where those pieces of > hose > >>> should go when I reassemble everything? Thanks again! > >>> > >>> On Sat, May 30, 2020 at 11:51 AM Olivier Hecht > >> wrote: > >>> > >>>> Got the board pulled today and the local yard should be able to repair > >> it > >>>> this week. Here is a picture in case anyone is curious about the > layers > >> of > >>>> construction. > >>>> > >>>> > >>>> > >>>> On Mon, May 25, 2020 at 12:00 PM Olivier Hecht > >> wrote: > >>>> > >>>>> Thanks Stan. I already have two of those three upgrades and love them > >>>>> but have been thinking about a new tiller at some point! > >>>>> > >>>>> On Mon, May 25, 2020 at 11:02 AM stan wrote: > >>>>> > >>>>>> > >>>>>> Oliver, > >>>>>> > >>>>>> www.rhodes22parts.com has parts for the Rhodes that are not > available > >>>>>> from marine suppliers. In the case of your diamond board however I > do > >>>>>> think that it would be less costly if you have your current one > >>>>>> repaired > >>>>>> locally. Freight alone for a centerboard can be an item. With all > >>>>>> that > >>>>>> saving how about a new style outhaul car or a fabulous fiberglass > >>>>>> tiller > >>>>>> or the new invention traveler system. > >>>>>> > >>>>>> While you got me to my keyboard, a comment. Every action has an > equal > >>>>>> and opposite reaction. Every recycled and new Rhodes has a yoke that > >>>>>> prevents the genoa line from leaving its drum so the energy needed > to > >>>>>> pull out the sail is not altered. From a 94 year old perspective > >> every > >>>>>> ounce is an item. For you young bucks the extra force needed to > pull > >>>>>> out the genoa with either Mikes or Rogers ingenious tension > techniques > >>>>>> would hardly be measurable so a small price to pay. Besides who > sails > >>>>>> at 94. > >>>>>> > >>>>>> And Don, if you are listening, I have no recollection of your > >> inquiring > >>>>>> about a rub rail insert replacement. We have those in stock for > Boston > >>>>>> Whaler owners since their boats came with red and we are the only > ones > >>>>>> who also have that color. But the reflective tape idea sound > >>>>>> interesting? > >>>>>> > >>>>>> On 5/24/20 8:34 PM, Olivier Hecht wrote: > >>>>>>> Hi Stan! It almost looked like that extra piece was glassed > in...if > >>>>>> not > >>>>>>> than definitely glued down well. I think I?d damage the hull > >>>>>> interface just > >>>>>>> by removing it. I?m thinking about just enlarging the inner opening > >>>>>> with a > >>>>>>> keyhole saw to allow me to pull the board. I don?t think the slick > >>>>>> surface > >>>>>>> on the laminate gives the gasket the best matings surface > >>>>>> either...that > >>>>>>> might explain my slightly wet bilge. Do you sell new diamond > boards, > >>>>>> or is > >>>>>>> it usually more economical to have them repaired locally? > >>>>>>> > >>>>>>> On Sun, May 24, 2020 at 8:17 PM stan > wrote: > >>>>>>> > >>>>>>>> Mary Lou, > >>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>> since this is between me and you I am happy to join in to report > >>>>>> what my > >>>>>>>> now occasionally lying eyes are seeing. > >>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>> A prior owner, as is usually the case when someone reports on a > >>>>>>>> ridiculous design fault attributed to GB, sacrificed access to the > >>>>>> cb in > >>>>>>>> the cb trunk in favor of a quick improper fix. > >>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>> The only recourse now for removing the cb is to take off the white > >>>>>>>> whatever it is, throw it away. lift out the cb. Fix what has to be > >>>>>>>> fixed. AND THEN REASSEMBLE THE ENTIRE CB SYSTEM AS GOD AND GB > >>>>>> DESIGNED > >>>>>>>> IT TO BE. > >>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>> On 5/24/20 7:17 PM, Mary Lou Troy wrote: > >>>>>>>>> Hi Olivier, > >>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>> The laminate is not standard R22 construction. > >>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>> At one point we were going to do something to the board, I forget > >>>>>>>>> what, maybe replace the pennant or get rid of the pully in the > >>>>>> raising > >>>>>>>>> system and had ordered a new gasket from Stan. When we got it > >> apart > >>>>>>>>> and discovered the laminate, we abandoned the project. We asked > >> Stan > >>>>>>>>> about it and via email he basically shrugged his shoulders and > >> said > >>>>>>>>> something to the effect that "that wasn't our repair." It wasn't > >>>>>>>>> leaking, we found another way to do what we were going to do and > >>>>>>>>> forgot about it. In fact I didn't realize I still had the > exchange > >>>>>>>>> with Stan in an old email program until now. > >>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>> After a bit of back and forth on a photo, Stan's exact words on > >> the > >>>>>>>>> subject from 2003 were: > >>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>> "So what I am seeing is a fiberglass "washer" between the top lip > >> of > >>>>>>>>> the trunk and > >>>>>>>>> neoprene gasket. The question then is was there any leakage > >> between > >>>>>>>>> the fiberglass > >>>>>>>>> gasket and the cb trunk lip? If no then I would leave it in > place > >>>>>> and > >>>>>>>>> just use a > >>>>>>>>> jib saw to cut on opening in it to match the opening in the cb > >>>>>> trunk - > >>>>>>>>> it should > >>>>>>>>> cut easily since it is probably not very thick If on the other > >> hand > >>>>>>>>> there was > >>>>>>>>> leakage between this element and the cb trunk cap I would do > >>>>>> whatever > >>>>>>>>> is necessary > >>>>>>>>> to pull it off and throw it away and sand smooth the top of the > >>>>>> trunk > >>>>>>>>> lip to > >>>>>>>>> receive the neoprene gasket." > >>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>> As I noted above, it wasn't leaking so my recollection is we > >> decided > >>>>>>>>> not to mess with it. > >>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>> Sorry this isn't more help. > >>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>> Mary Lou > >>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>> On 5/24/2020 6:12 PM, Olivier Hecht wrote: > >>>>>>>>>> My last message with two pics bounced back...hopefully this goes > >>>>>>>>>> through... > >>>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>>> Whoops...sorry. Forgot to attach it! Here they are. That white > >>>>>> piece is > >>>>>>>>>> glued to the boat...I?m sure of it. > >>>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>>> On Sun, May 24, 2020 at 6:02 PM Richard Beytagh < > >>>>>> rbeytagh at gmail.com> > >>>>>>>>>> wrote: > >>>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>>>> The pic didn?t come through? > >>>>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>>>> On Sun, May 24, 2020 at 5:58 PM Olivier Hecht < > >> oehecht at gmail.com> > >>>>>>>>>>> wrote: > >>>>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>>>>> Well the board fell onto the trailer axle since I guess I > >> pulled > >>>>>>>>>>>> the boat > >>>>>>>>>>>> too far forward. Took a chunk out of it so I decided to try to > >>>>>> pull > >>>>>>>>>>>> it. I > >>>>>>>>>>>> just got the cap off after removing ~60 10mm bolts with blind > >>>>>> nuts and > >>>>>>>>>>> now > >>>>>>>>>>>> I can?t access the pivot to remove the board. See pics...the > >>>>>> white > >>>>>>>>>>>> piece > >>>>>>>>>>> of > >>>>>>>>>>>> laminate? seems to be glasses into the hull. I?m afraid to > >>>>>> destroy > >>>>>>>>>>>> it by > >>>>>>>>>>>> prying. Can anyone confirm to me that this piece should be > >>>>>>>>>>>> removable? I > >>>>>>>>>>>> cants see any other way to lift the board out since the pivot > >> is > >>>>>>>>>>>> inaccessible. I?ll be at the boat for an hour more max, then I > >>>>>> have to > >>>>>>>>>>> head > >>>>>>>>>>>> home. Was really hoping to take the board with me! > >>>>>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>>>> -- > >>>>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>>>> ~~~ _/) ~~~ > >>>>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>>>> Richard Beytagh > >>>>>>>>>>> Phone: 828 337 0180 > >>>>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>>> -------------- next part -------------- > >>>>>>>>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > >>>>>>>>>> Name: IMG_3661.jpg > >>>>>>>>>> Type: image/jpg > >>>>>>>>>> Size: 2852710 bytes > >>>>>>>>>> Desc: not available > >>>>>>>>>> URL: > >>>>>>>>>> < > >>>>>>>> > >>>>>> > >> > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200524/1a8b1c27/attachment.jpg > >>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>> > >>>>>> > >>>>>> > >> -------------- next part -------------- > >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > >> Name: IMG_3700.jpg > >> Type: image/jpeg > >> Size: 2017697 bytes > >> Desc: not available > >> URL: < > >> > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200601/3d760085/attachment.jpg > >>> > >> > > From gstewart8 at cogeco.ca Tue Jun 2 00:02:00 2020 From: gstewart8 at cogeco.ca (Graham Stewart) Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2020 00:02:00 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Emergency diamondboard help...at boatyard for only a little while longer In-Reply-To: References: <8cf82e5a-17e1-1073-a097-bd325b783960@atlanticbb.net> <597b27fb-7b94-6e5f-b84a-92341acddbb1@generalboats.com> <005801d6385a$4f2e3a10$ed8aae30$@ebsmed.com> Message-ID: <01ee01d63892$92752620$b75f7260$@ca> The pieces of hose should be long enough to fill the slot between the centerboard pin and the cap. Use regular hose that is relatively soft and flexible as one of the purposes of the pieces is to absorb the shock should the centerboard be forced up. Graham Stewart gstewart8 at cogeco.ca -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Olivier Hecht Sent: Monday, June 1, 2020 6:53 PM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Emergency diamondboard help...at boatyard for only a little while longer Richard, I didn?t see the picture come through. Are the hose pieces ?intact?, meaning I cut a few inches off of a hose but don?t have to split it lengthwise or do anything else like that? On Mon, Jun 1, 2020 at 5:19 PM Michael D. Weisner wrote: > Ric, > > I love the phrase " when the CB entered the cabin." > > Mike > s/v Wind Lass ('91) > Nissequogue River, NY > I?d rather be sailing :~) > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of > Richard Stott > Sent: Monday, June 1, 2020 4:40 PM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Emergency diamondboard help...at boatyard for > only a little while longer > > HI Todd > I don?t have a Diamond board, I have the old style CB. > Here are some pics of how it is rigged including the hose pieces. > They can be anything, but do not make the diameter too big or they will > impede the smoothness of the CB operation (on the old stye ) They do help > quiet the banging noise, but they do not prevent it. > I?ve taken my CB part 3 times now for various reasons. > I don?t want to do that any more. > Most recently, I installed a new cap after I destroyed the previous one > when the CB entered the cabin. > Boating is a sure bet that something will happen the you never, ever > expected. > More on that coming soon. > Ric > Dadventure > > > Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP > www.stottarchitecture.com > Office 631-283-1777 > Cell 516-965-3164 > > > > > > > On Jun 1, 2020, at 7:01 AM, Todd Tavares wrote: > > > > Someone will surely post pictures, but they drop down into the slots on > > either side of the centerboard, on top of the pin. > > > > Todd T. > > > > tavares0947 at gmail.com > > > > On Mon, Jun 1, 2020, 6:13 AM Olivier Hecht wrote: > > > >> Anyone have pictures of how the ?scrap hose pieces? fit around the > >> diamondboard? > >> > >> On Sat, May 30, 2020 at 2:19 PM Olivier Hecht > wrote: > >> > >>> I was also not shocked to not find the ?two scraps of garden hose? I?ve > >>> heard so much about. I think they dampen noise and movement near the > >> pivot > >>> of the board, and my board does ?rattle? while sailing whenever it?s > not > >>> fully loaded. Does anyone have pictures of how/where those pieces of > hose > >>> should go when I reassemble everything? Thanks again! > >>> > >>> On Sat, May 30, 2020 at 11:51 AM Olivier Hecht > >> wrote: > >>> > >>>> Got the board pulled today and the local yard should be able to repair > >> it > >>>> this week. Here is a picture in case anyone is curious about the > layers > >> of > >>>> construction. > >>>> > >>>> > >>>> > >>>> On Mon, May 25, 2020 at 12:00 PM Olivier Hecht > >> wrote: > >>>> > >>>>> Thanks Stan. I already have two of those three upgrades and love them > >>>>> but have been thinking about a new tiller at some point! > >>>>> > >>>>> On Mon, May 25, 2020 at 11:02 AM stan wrote: > >>>>> > >>>>>> > >>>>>> Oliver, > >>>>>> > >>>>>> www.rhodes22parts.com has parts for the Rhodes that are not > available > >>>>>> from marine suppliers. In the case of your diamond board however I > do > >>>>>> think that it would be less costly if you have your current one > >>>>>> repaired > >>>>>> locally. Freight alone for a centerboard can be an item. With all > >>>>>> that > >>>>>> saving how about a new style outhaul car or a fabulous fiberglass > >>>>>> tiller > >>>>>> or the new invention traveler system. > >>>>>> > >>>>>> While you got me to my keyboard, a comment. Every action has an > equal > >>>>>> and opposite reaction. Every recycled and new Rhodes has a yoke that > >>>>>> prevents the genoa line from leaving its drum so the energy needed > to > >>>>>> pull out the sail is not altered. From a 94 year old perspective > >> every > >>>>>> ounce is an item. For you young bucks the extra force needed to > pull > >>>>>> out the genoa with either Mikes or Rogers ingenious tension > techniques > >>>>>> would hardly be measurable so a small price to pay. Besides who > sails > >>>>>> at 94. > >>>>>> > >>>>>> And Don, if you are listening, I have no recollection of your > >> inquiring > >>>>>> about a rub rail insert replacement. We have those in stock for > Boston > >>>>>> Whaler owners since their boats came with red and we are the only > ones > >>>>>> who also have that color. But the reflective tape idea sound > >>>>>> interesting? > >>>>>> > >>>>>> On 5/24/20 8:34 PM, Olivier Hecht wrote: > >>>>>>> Hi Stan! It almost looked like that extra piece was glassed > in...if > >>>>>> not > >>>>>>> than definitely glued down well. I think I?d damage the hull > >>>>>> interface just > >>>>>>> by removing it. I?m thinking about just enlarging the inner opening > >>>>>> with a > >>>>>>> keyhole saw to allow me to pull the board. I don?t think the slick > >>>>>> surface > >>>>>>> on the laminate gives the gasket the best matings surface > >>>>>> either...that > >>>>>>> might explain my slightly wet bilge. Do you sell new diamond > boards, > >>>>>> or is > >>>>>>> it usually more economical to have them repaired locally? > >>>>>>> > >>>>>>> On Sun, May 24, 2020 at 8:17 PM stan > wrote: > >>>>>>> > >>>>>>>> Mary Lou, > >>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>> since this is between me and you I am happy to join in to report > >>>>>> what my > >>>>>>>> now occasionally lying eyes are seeing. > >>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>> A prior owner, as is usually the case when someone reports on a > >>>>>>>> ridiculous design fault attributed to GB, sacrificed access to the > >>>>>> cb in > >>>>>>>> the cb trunk in favor of a quick improper fix. > >>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>> The only recourse now for removing the cb is to take off the white > >>>>>>>> whatever it is, throw it away. lift out the cb. Fix what has to be > >>>>>>>> fixed. AND THEN REASSEMBLE THE ENTIRE CB SYSTEM AS GOD AND GB > >>>>>> DESIGNED > >>>>>>>> IT TO BE. > >>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>> On 5/24/20 7:17 PM, Mary Lou Troy wrote: > >>>>>>>>> Hi Olivier, > >>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>> The laminate is not standard R22 construction. > >>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>> At one point we were going to do something to the board, I forget > >>>>>>>>> what, maybe replace the pennant or get rid of the pully in the > >>>>>> raising > >>>>>>>>> system and had ordered a new gasket from Stan. When we got it > >> apart > >>>>>>>>> and discovered the laminate, we abandoned the project. We asked > >> Stan > >>>>>>>>> about it and via email he basically shrugged his shoulders and > >> said > >>>>>>>>> something to the effect that "that wasn't our repair." It wasn't > >>>>>>>>> leaking, we found another way to do what we were going to do and > >>>>>>>>> forgot about it. In fact I didn't realize I still had the > exchange > >>>>>>>>> with Stan in an old email program until now. > >>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>> After a bit of back and forth on a photo, Stan's exact words on > >> the > >>>>>>>>> subject from 2003 were: > >>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>> "So what I am seeing is a fiberglass "washer" between the top lip > >> of > >>>>>>>>> the trunk and > >>>>>>>>> neoprene gasket. The question then is was there any leakage > >> between > >>>>>>>>> the fiberglass > >>>>>>>>> gasket and the cb trunk lip? If no then I would leave it in > place > >>>>>> and > >>>>>>>>> just use a > >>>>>>>>> jib saw to cut on opening in it to match the opening in the cb > >>>>>> trunk - > >>>>>>>>> it should > >>>>>>>>> cut easily since it is probably not very thick If on the other > >> hand > >>>>>>>>> there was > >>>>>>>>> leakage between this element and the cb trunk cap I would do > >>>>>> whatever > >>>>>>>>> is necessary > >>>>>>>>> to pull it off and throw it away and sand smooth the top of the > >>>>>> trunk > >>>>>>>>> lip to > >>>>>>>>> receive the neoprene gasket." > >>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>> As I noted above, it wasn't leaking so my recollection is we > >> decided > >>>>>>>>> not to mess with it. > >>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>> Sorry this isn't more help. > >>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>> Mary Lou > >>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>> On 5/24/2020 6:12 PM, Olivier Hecht wrote: > >>>>>>>>>> My last message with two pics bounced back...hopefully this goes > >>>>>>>>>> through... > >>>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>>> Whoops...sorry. Forgot to attach it! Here they are. That white > >>>>>> piece is > >>>>>>>>>> glued to the boat...I?m sure of it. > >>>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>>> On Sun, May 24, 2020 at 6:02 PM Richard Beytagh < > >>>>>> rbeytagh at gmail.com> > >>>>>>>>>> wrote: > >>>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>>>> The pic didn?t come through? > >>>>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>>>> On Sun, May 24, 2020 at 5:58 PM Olivier Hecht < > >> oehecht at gmail.com> > >>>>>>>>>>> wrote: > >>>>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>>>>> Well the board fell onto the trailer axle since I guess I > >> pulled > >>>>>>>>>>>> the boat > >>>>>>>>>>>> too far forward. Took a chunk out of it so I decided to try to > >>>>>> pull > >>>>>>>>>>>> it. I > >>>>>>>>>>>> just got the cap off after removing ~60 10mm bolts with blind > >>>>>> nuts and > >>>>>>>>>>> now > >>>>>>>>>>>> I can?t access the pivot to remove the board. See pics...the > >>>>>> white > >>>>>>>>>>>> piece > >>>>>>>>>>> of > >>>>>>>>>>>> laminate? seems to be glasses into the hull. I?m afraid to > >>>>>> destroy > >>>>>>>>>>>> it by > >>>>>>>>>>>> prying. Can anyone confirm to me that this piece should be > >>>>>>>>>>>> removable? I > >>>>>>>>>>>> cants see any other way to lift the board out since the pivot > >> is > >>>>>>>>>>>> inaccessible. I?ll be at the boat for an hour more max, then I > >>>>>> have to > >>>>>>>>>>> head > >>>>>>>>>>>> home. Was really hoping to take the board with me! > >>>>>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>>>> -- > >>>>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>>>> ~~~ _/) ~~~ > >>>>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>>>> Richard Beytagh > >>>>>>>>>>> Phone: 828 337 0180 > >>>>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>>> -------------- next part -------------- > >>>>>>>>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > >>>>>>>>>> Name: IMG_3661.jpg > >>>>>>>>>> Type: image/jpg > >>>>>>>>>> Size: 2852710 bytes > >>>>>>>>>> Desc: not available > >>>>>>>>>> URL: > >>>>>>>>>> < > >>>>>>>> > >>>>>> > >> > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200524/1a8b1c27/attachment.jpg > >>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>> > >>>>>> > >>>>>> > >> -------------- next part -------------- > >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > >> Name: IMG_3700.jpg > >> Type: image/jpeg > >> Size: 2017697 bytes > >> Desc: not available > >> URL: < > >> > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200601/3d760085/attachment.jpg > >>> > >> > > From oehecht at gmail.com Tue Jun 2 06:02:27 2020 From: oehecht at gmail.com (Olivier Hecht) Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2020 06:02:27 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Emergency diamondboard help...at boatyard for only a little while longer In-Reply-To: <01ee01d63892$92752620$b75f7260$@ca> References: <8cf82e5a-17e1-1073-a097-bd325b783960@atlanticbb.net> <597b27fb-7b94-6e5f-b84a-92341acddbb1@generalboats.com> <005801d6385a$4f2e3a10$ed8aae30$@ebsmed.com> <01ee01d63892$92752620$b75f7260$@ca> Message-ID: Thanks Graham. On Tue, Jun 2, 2020 at 12:02 AM Graham Stewart wrote: > The pieces of hose should be long enough to fill the slot between the > centerboard pin and the cap. Use regular hose that is relatively soft and > flexible as one of the purposes of the pieces is to absorb the shock should > the centerboard be forced up. > > Graham Stewart > gstewart8 at cogeco.ca > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf > Of Olivier Hecht > Sent: Monday, June 1, 2020 6:53 PM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Emergency diamondboard help...at boatyard for > only a little while longer > > Richard, I didn?t see the picture come through. Are the hose pieces > ?intact?, meaning I cut a few inches off of a hose but don?t have to split > it lengthwise or do anything else like that? > > On Mon, Jun 1, 2020 at 5:19 PM Michael D. Weisner > wrote: > > > Ric, > > > > I love the phrase " when the CB entered the cabin." > > > > Mike > > s/v Wind Lass ('91) > > Nissequogue River, NY > > I?d rather be sailing :~) > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of > > Richard Stott > > Sent: Monday, June 1, 2020 4:40 PM > > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Emergency diamondboard help...at boatyard > for > > only a little while longer > > > > HI Todd > > I don?t have a Diamond board, I have the old style CB. > > Here are some pics of how it is rigged including the hose pieces. > > They can be anything, but do not make the diameter too big or they will > > impede the smoothness of the CB operation (on the old stye ) They do help > > quiet the banging noise, but they do not prevent it. > > I?ve taken my CB part 3 times now for various reasons. > > I don?t want to do that any more. > > Most recently, I installed a new cap after I destroyed the previous one > > when the CB entered the cabin. > > Boating is a sure bet that something will happen the you never, ever > > expected. > > More on that coming soon. > > Ric > > Dadventure > > > > > > Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP > > www.stottarchitecture.com > > Office 631-283-1777 > > Cell 516-965-3164 > > > > > > > > > > > > > On Jun 1, 2020, at 7:01 AM, Todd Tavares > wrote: > > > > > > Someone will surely post pictures, but they drop down into the slots on > > > either side of the centerboard, on top of the pin. > > > > > > Todd T. > > > > > > tavares0947 at gmail.com > > > > > > On Mon, Jun 1, 2020, 6:13 AM Olivier Hecht wrote: > > > > > >> Anyone have pictures of how the ?scrap hose pieces? fit around the > > >> diamondboard? > > >> > > >> On Sat, May 30, 2020 at 2:19 PM Olivier Hecht > > wrote: > > >> > > >>> I was also not shocked to not find the ?two scraps of garden hose? > I?ve > > >>> heard so much about. I think they dampen noise and movement near the > > >> pivot > > >>> of the board, and my board does ?rattle? while sailing whenever it?s > > not > > >>> fully loaded. Does anyone have pictures of how/where those pieces of > > hose > > >>> should go when I reassemble everything? Thanks again! > > >>> > > >>> On Sat, May 30, 2020 at 11:51 AM Olivier Hecht > > >> wrote: > > >>> > > >>>> Got the board pulled today and the local yard should be able to > repair > > >> it > > >>>> this week. Here is a picture in case anyone is curious about the > > layers > > >> of > > >>>> construction. > > >>>> > > >>>> > > >>>> > > >>>> On Mon, May 25, 2020 at 12:00 PM Olivier Hecht > > >> wrote: > > >>>> > > >>>>> Thanks Stan. I already have two of those three upgrades and love > them > > >>>>> but have been thinking about a new tiller at some point! > > >>>>> > > >>>>> On Mon, May 25, 2020 at 11:02 AM stan > wrote: > > >>>>> > > >>>>>> > > >>>>>> Oliver, > > >>>>>> > > >>>>>> www.rhodes22parts.com has parts for the Rhodes that are not > > available > > >>>>>> from marine suppliers. In the case of your diamond board however > I > > do > > >>>>>> think that it would be less costly if you have your current one > > >>>>>> repaired > > >>>>>> locally. Freight alone for a centerboard can be an item. With > all > > >>>>>> that > > >>>>>> saving how about a new style outhaul car or a fabulous fiberglass > > >>>>>> tiller > > >>>>>> or the new invention traveler system. > > >>>>>> > > >>>>>> While you got me to my keyboard, a comment. Every action has an > > equal > > >>>>>> and opposite reaction. Every recycled and new Rhodes has a yoke > that > > >>>>>> prevents the genoa line from leaving its drum so the energy needed > > to > > >>>>>> pull out the sail is not altered. From a 94 year old perspective > > >> every > > >>>>>> ounce is an item. For you young bucks the extra force needed to > > pull > > >>>>>> out the genoa with either Mikes or Rogers ingenious tension > > techniques > > >>>>>> would hardly be measurable so a small price to pay. Besides who > > sails > > >>>>>> at 94. > > >>>>>> > > >>>>>> And Don, if you are listening, I have no recollection of your > > >> inquiring > > >>>>>> about a rub rail insert replacement. We have those in stock for > > Boston > > >>>>>> Whaler owners since their boats came with red and we are the only > > ones > > >>>>>> who also have that color. But the reflective tape idea sound > > >>>>>> interesting? > > >>>>>> > > >>>>>> On 5/24/20 8:34 PM, Olivier Hecht wrote: > > >>>>>>> Hi Stan! It almost looked like that extra piece was glassed > > in...if > > >>>>>> not > > >>>>>>> than definitely glued down well. I think I?d damage the hull > > >>>>>> interface just > > >>>>>>> by removing it. I?m thinking about just enlarging the inner > opening > > >>>>>> with a > > >>>>>>> keyhole saw to allow me to pull the board. I don?t think the > slick > > >>>>>> surface > > >>>>>>> on the laminate gives the gasket the best matings surface > > >>>>>> either...that > > >>>>>>> might explain my slightly wet bilge. Do you sell new diamond > > boards, > > >>>>>> or is > > >>>>>>> it usually more economical to have them repaired locally? > > >>>>>>> > > >>>>>>> On Sun, May 24, 2020 at 8:17 PM stan > > wrote: > > >>>>>>> > > >>>>>>>> Mary Lou, > > >>>>>>>> > > >>>>>>>> since this is between me and you I am happy to join in to report > > >>>>>> what my > > >>>>>>>> now occasionally lying eyes are seeing. > > >>>>>>>> > > >>>>>>>> A prior owner, as is usually the case when someone reports on a > > >>>>>>>> ridiculous design fault attributed to GB, sacrificed access to > the > > >>>>>> cb in > > >>>>>>>> the cb trunk in favor of a quick improper fix. > > >>>>>>>> > > >>>>>>>> The only recourse now for removing the cb is to take off the > white > > >>>>>>>> whatever it is, throw it away. lift out the cb. Fix what has to > be > > >>>>>>>> fixed. AND THEN REASSEMBLE THE ENTIRE CB SYSTEM AS GOD AND GB > > >>>>>> DESIGNED > > >>>>>>>> IT TO BE. > > >>>>>>>> > > >>>>>>>> > > >>>>>>>> On 5/24/20 7:17 PM, Mary Lou Troy wrote: > > >>>>>>>>> Hi Olivier, > > >>>>>>>>> > > >>>>>>>>> The laminate is not standard R22 construction. > > >>>>>>>>> > > >>>>>>>>> At one point we were going to do something to the board, I > forget > > >>>>>>>>> what, maybe replace the pennant or get rid of the pully in the > > >>>>>> raising > > >>>>>>>>> system and had ordered a new gasket from Stan. When we got it > > >> apart > > >>>>>>>>> and discovered the laminate, we abandoned the project. We asked > > >> Stan > > >>>>>>>>> about it and via email he basically shrugged his shoulders and > > >> said > > >>>>>>>>> something to the effect that "that wasn't our repair." It > wasn't > > >>>>>>>>> leaking, we found another way to do what we were going to do > and > > >>>>>>>>> forgot about it. In fact I didn't realize I still had the > > exchange > > >>>>>>>>> with Stan in an old email program until now. > > >>>>>>>>> > > >>>>>>>>> After a bit of back and forth on a photo, Stan's exact words on > > >> the > > >>>>>>>>> subject from 2003 were: > > >>>>>>>>> > > >>>>>>>>> "So what I am seeing is a fiberglass "washer" between the top > lip > > >> of > > >>>>>>>>> the trunk and > > >>>>>>>>> neoprene gasket. The question then is was there any leakage > > >> between > > >>>>>>>>> the fiberglass > > >>>>>>>>> gasket and the cb trunk lip? If no then I would leave it in > > place > > >>>>>> and > > >>>>>>>>> just use a > > >>>>>>>>> jib saw to cut on opening in it to match the opening in the cb > > >>>>>> trunk - > > >>>>>>>>> it should > > >>>>>>>>> cut easily since it is probably not very thick If on the other > > >> hand > > >>>>>>>>> there was > > >>>>>>>>> leakage between this element and the cb trunk cap I would do > > >>>>>> whatever > > >>>>>>>>> is necessary > > >>>>>>>>> to pull it off and throw it away and sand smooth the top of the > > >>>>>> trunk > > >>>>>>>>> lip to > > >>>>>>>>> receive the neoprene gasket." > > >>>>>>>>> > > >>>>>>>>> As I noted above, it wasn't leaking so my recollection is we > > >> decided > > >>>>>>>>> not to mess with it. > > >>>>>>>>> > > >>>>>>>>> Sorry this isn't more help. > > >>>>>>>>> > > >>>>>>>>> Mary Lou > > >>>>>>>>> > > >>>>>>>>> > > >>>>>>>>> On 5/24/2020 6:12 PM, Olivier Hecht wrote: > > >>>>>>>>>> My last message with two pics bounced back...hopefully this > goes > > >>>>>>>>>> through... > > >>>>>>>>>> > > >>>>>>>>>> Whoops...sorry. Forgot to attach it! Here they are. That > white > > >>>>>> piece is > > >>>>>>>>>> glued to the boat...I?m sure of it. > > >>>>>>>>>> > > >>>>>>>>>> > > >>>>>>>>>> On Sun, May 24, 2020 at 6:02 PM Richard Beytagh < > > >>>>>> rbeytagh at gmail.com> > > >>>>>>>>>> wrote: > > >>>>>>>>>> > > >>>>>>>>>>> The pic didn?t come through? > > >>>>>>>>>>> > > >>>>>>>>>>> On Sun, May 24, 2020 at 5:58 PM Olivier Hecht < > > >> oehecht at gmail.com> > > >>>>>>>>>>> wrote: > > >>>>>>>>>>> > > >>>>>>>>>>>> Well the board fell onto the trailer axle since I guess I > > >> pulled > > >>>>>>>>>>>> the boat > > >>>>>>>>>>>> too far forward. Took a chunk out of it so I decided to try > to > > >>>>>> pull > > >>>>>>>>>>>> it. I > > >>>>>>>>>>>> just got the cap off after removing ~60 10mm bolts with > blind > > >>>>>> nuts and > > >>>>>>>>>>> now > > >>>>>>>>>>>> I can?t access the pivot to remove the board. See pics...the > > >>>>>> white > > >>>>>>>>>>>> piece > > >>>>>>>>>>> of > > >>>>>>>>>>>> laminate? seems to be glasses into the hull. I?m afraid to > > >>>>>> destroy > > >>>>>>>>>>>> it by > > >>>>>>>>>>>> prying. Can anyone confirm to me that this piece should be > > >>>>>>>>>>>> removable? I > > >>>>>>>>>>>> cants see any other way to lift the board out since the > pivot > > >> is > > >>>>>>>>>>>> inaccessible. I?ll be at the boat for an hour more max, > then I > > >>>>>> have to > > >>>>>>>>>>> head > > >>>>>>>>>>>> home. Was really hoping to take the board with me! > > >>>>>>>>>>>> > > >>>>>>>>>>> -- > > >>>>>>>>>>> > > >>>>>>>>>>> > > >>>>>>>>>>> ~~~ _/) ~~~ > > >>>>>>>>>>> > > >>>>>>>>>>> Richard Beytagh > > >>>>>>>>>>> Phone: 828 337 0180 > > >>>>>>>>>>> > > >>>>>>>>>> -------------- next part -------------- > > >>>>>>>>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > >>>>>>>>>> Name: IMG_3661.jpg > > >>>>>>>>>> Type: image/jpg > > >>>>>>>>>> Size: 2852710 bytes > > >>>>>>>>>> Desc: not available > > >>>>>>>>>> URL: > > >>>>>>>>>> < > > >>>>>>>> > > >>>>>> > > >> > > > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200524/1a8b1c27/attachment.jpg > > >>>>>>>>> > > >>>>>>>>> > > >>>>>>>> > > >>>>>> > > >>>>>> > > >> -------------- next part -------------- > > >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > >> Name: IMG_3700.jpg > > >> Type: image/jpeg > > >> Size: 2017697 bytes > > >> Desc: not available > > >> URL: < > > >> > > > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200601/3d760085/attachment.jpg > > >>> > > >> > > > > > > From ric at stottarchitecture.com Tue Jun 2 07:09:23 2020 From: ric at stottarchitecture.com (Ric Stott) Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2020 07:09:23 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Emergency diamondboard help...at boatyard for only a little while longer In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8899DD56-AA91-42D2-866C-0D9174B6C2E0@stottarchitecture.com> I often have trouble attaching pics. I made them very low Rez first but whatever. I think the hose pieces I used were 5/8? diameter. Don?t slice them just cut to the same length as the depth of the tapered slot. Simple! Ric Sent from my iPhone > On Jun 2, 2020, at 6:02 AM, Olivier Hecht wrote: > > ?Thanks Graham. > >> On Tue, Jun 2, 2020 at 12:02 AM Graham Stewart wrote: >> >> The pieces of hose should be long enough to fill the slot between the >> centerboard pin and the cap. Use regular hose that is relatively soft and >> flexible as one of the purposes of the pieces is to absorb the shock should >> the centerboard be forced up. >> >> Graham Stewart >> gstewart8 at cogeco.ca >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf >> Of Olivier Hecht >> Sent: Monday, June 1, 2020 6:53 PM >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Emergency diamondboard help...at boatyard for >> only a little while longer >> >> Richard, I didn?t see the picture come through. Are the hose pieces >> ?intact?, meaning I cut a few inches off of a hose but don?t have to split >> it lengthwise or do anything else like that? >> >> On Mon, Jun 1, 2020 at 5:19 PM Michael D. Weisner >> wrote: >> >>> Ric, >>> >>> I love the phrase " when the CB entered the cabin." >>> >>> Mike >>> s/v Wind Lass ('91) >>> Nissequogue River, NY >>> I?d rather be sailing :~) >>> >>> >>> -----Original Message----- >>> From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of >>> Richard Stott >>> Sent: Monday, June 1, 2020 4:40 PM >>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List >>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Emergency diamondboard help...at boatyard >> for >>> only a little while longer >>> >>> HI Todd >>> I don?t have a Diamond board, I have the old style CB. >>> Here are some pics of how it is rigged including the hose pieces. >>> They can be anything, but do not make the diameter too big or they will >>> impede the smoothness of the CB operation (on the old stye ) They do help >>> quiet the banging noise, but they do not prevent it. >>> I?ve taken my CB part 3 times now for various reasons. >>> I don?t want to do that any more. >>> Most recently, I installed a new cap after I destroyed the previous one >>> when the CB entered the cabin. >>> Boating is a sure bet that something will happen the you never, ever >>> expected. >>> More on that coming soon. >>> Ric >>> Dadventure >>> >>> >>> Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP >>> www.stottarchitecture.com >>> Office 631-283-1777 >>> Cell 516-965-3164 >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>>> On Jun 1, 2020, at 7:01 AM, Todd Tavares >> wrote: >>>> >>>> Someone will surely post pictures, but they drop down into the slots on >>>> either side of the centerboard, on top of the pin. >>>> >>>> Todd T. >>>> >>>> tavares0947 at gmail.com >>>> >>>> On Mon, Jun 1, 2020, 6:13 AM Olivier Hecht wrote: >>>> >>>>> Anyone have pictures of how the ?scrap hose pieces? fit around the >>>>> diamondboard? >>>>> >>>>> On Sat, May 30, 2020 at 2:19 PM Olivier Hecht >>> wrote: >>>>> >>>>>> I was also not shocked to not find the ?two scraps of garden hose? >> I?ve >>>>>> heard so much about. I think they dampen noise and movement near the >>>>> pivot >>>>>> of the board, and my board does ?rattle? while sailing whenever it?s >>> not >>>>>> fully loaded. Does anyone have pictures of how/where those pieces of >>> hose >>>>>> should go when I reassemble everything? Thanks again! >>>>>> >>>>>> On Sat, May 30, 2020 at 11:51 AM Olivier Hecht >>>>> wrote: >>>>>> >>>>>>> Got the board pulled today and the local yard should be able to >> repair >>>>> it >>>>>>> this week. Here is a picture in case anyone is curious about the >>> layers >>>>> of >>>>>>> construction. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> On Mon, May 25, 2020 at 12:00 PM Olivier Hecht >>>>> wrote: >>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Thanks Stan. I already have two of those three upgrades and love >> them >>>>>>>> but have been thinking about a new tiller at some point! >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> On Mon, May 25, 2020 at 11:02 AM stan >> wrote: >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> Oliver, >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> www.rhodes22parts.com has parts for the Rhodes that are not >>> available >>>>>>>>> from marine suppliers. In the case of your diamond board however >> I >>> do >>>>>>>>> think that it would be less costly if you have your current one >>>>>>>>> repaired >>>>>>>>> locally. Freight alone for a centerboard can be an item. With >> all >>>>>>>>> that >>>>>>>>> saving how about a new style outhaul car or a fabulous fiberglass >>>>>>>>> tiller >>>>>>>>> or the new invention traveler system. >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> While you got me to my keyboard, a comment. Every action has an >>> equal >>>>>>>>> and opposite reaction. Every recycled and new Rhodes has a yoke >> that >>>>>>>>> prevents the genoa line from leaving its drum so the energy needed >>> to >>>>>>>>> pull out the sail is not altered. From a 94 year old perspective >>>>> every >>>>>>>>> ounce is an item. For you young bucks the extra force needed to >>> pull >>>>>>>>> out the genoa with either Mikes or Rogers ingenious tension >>> techniques >>>>>>>>> would hardly be measurable so a small price to pay. Besides who >>> sails >>>>>>>>> at 94. >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> And Don, if you are listening, I have no recollection of your >>>>> inquiring >>>>>>>>> about a rub rail insert replacement. We have those in stock for >>> Boston >>>>>>>>> Whaler owners since their boats came with red and we are the only >>> ones >>>>>>>>> who also have that color. But the reflective tape idea sound >>>>>>>>> interesting? >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> On 5/24/20 8:34 PM, Olivier Hecht wrote: >>>>>>>>>> Hi Stan! It almost looked like that extra piece was glassed >>> in...if >>>>>>>>> not >>>>>>>>>> than definitely glued down well. I think I?d damage the hull >>>>>>>>> interface just >>>>>>>>>> by removing it. I?m thinking about just enlarging the inner >> opening >>>>>>>>> with a >>>>>>>>>> keyhole saw to allow me to pull the board. I don?t think the >> slick >>>>>>>>> surface >>>>>>>>>> on the laminate gives the gasket the best matings surface >>>>>>>>> either...that >>>>>>>>>> might explain my slightly wet bilge. Do you sell new diamond >>> boards, >>>>>>>>> or is >>>>>>>>>> it usually more economical to have them repaired locally? >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> On Sun, May 24, 2020 at 8:17 PM stan >>> wrote: >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> Mary Lou, >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> since this is between me and you I am happy to join in to report >>>>>>>>> what my >>>>>>>>>>> now occasionally lying eyes are seeing. >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> A prior owner, as is usually the case when someone reports on a >>>>>>>>>>> ridiculous design fault attributed to GB, sacrificed access to >> the >>>>>>>>> cb in >>>>>>>>>>> the cb trunk in favor of a quick improper fix. >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> The only recourse now for removing the cb is to take off the >> white >>>>>>>>>>> whatever it is, throw it away. lift out the cb. Fix what has to >> be >>>>>>>>>>> fixed. AND THEN REASSEMBLE THE ENTIRE CB SYSTEM AS GOD AND GB >>>>>>>>> DESIGNED >>>>>>>>>>> IT TO BE. >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> On 5/24/20 7:17 PM, Mary Lou Troy wrote: >>>>>>>>>>>> Hi Olivier, >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> The laminate is not standard R22 construction. >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> At one point we were going to do something to the board, I >> forget >>>>>>>>>>>> what, maybe replace the pennant or get rid of the pully in the >>>>>>>>> raising >>>>>>>>>>>> system and had ordered a new gasket from Stan. When we got it >>>>> apart >>>>>>>>>>>> and discovered the laminate, we abandoned the project. We asked >>>>> Stan >>>>>>>>>>>> about it and via email he basically shrugged his shoulders and >>>>> said >>>>>>>>>>>> something to the effect that "that wasn't our repair." It >> wasn't >>>>>>>>>>>> leaking, we found another way to do what we were going to do >> and >>>>>>>>>>>> forgot about it. In fact I didn't realize I still had the >>> exchange >>>>>>>>>>>> with Stan in an old email program until now. >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> After a bit of back and forth on a photo, Stan's exact words on >>>>> the >>>>>>>>>>>> subject from 2003 were: >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> "So what I am seeing is a fiberglass "washer" between the top >> lip >>>>> of >>>>>>>>>>>> the trunk and >>>>>>>>>>>> neoprene gasket. The question then is was there any leakage >>>>> between >>>>>>>>>>>> the fiberglass >>>>>>>>>>>> gasket and the cb trunk lip? If no then I would leave it in >>> place >>>>>>>>> and >>>>>>>>>>>> just use a >>>>>>>>>>>> jib saw to cut on opening in it to match the opening in the cb >>>>>>>>> trunk - >>>>>>>>>>>> it should >>>>>>>>>>>> cut easily since it is probably not very thick If on the other >>>>> hand >>>>>>>>>>>> there was >>>>>>>>>>>> leakage between this element and the cb trunk cap I would do >>>>>>>>> whatever >>>>>>>>>>>> is necessary >>>>>>>>>>>> to pull it off and throw it away and sand smooth the top of the >>>>>>>>> trunk >>>>>>>>>>>> lip to >>>>>>>>>>>> receive the neoprene gasket." >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> As I noted above, it wasn't leaking so my recollection is we >>>>> decided >>>>>>>>>>>> not to mess with it. >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> Sorry this isn't more help. >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> Mary Lou >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> On 5/24/2020 6:12 PM, Olivier Hecht wrote: >>>>>>>>>>>>> My last message with two pics bounced back...hopefully this >> goes >>>>>>>>>>>>> through... >>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>> Whoops...sorry. Forgot to attach it! Here they are. That >> white >>>>>>>>> piece is >>>>>>>>>>>>> glued to the boat...I?m sure of it. >>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>> On Sun, May 24, 2020 at 6:02 PM Richard Beytagh < >>>>>>>>> rbeytagh at gmail.com> >>>>>>>>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>> The pic didn?t come through? >>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>> On Sun, May 24, 2020 at 5:58 PM Olivier Hecht < >>>>> oehecht at gmail.com> >>>>>>>>>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Well the board fell onto the trailer axle since I guess I >>>>> pulled >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the boat >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> too far forward. Took a chunk out of it so I decided to try >> to >>>>>>>>> pull >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> it. I >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> just got the cap off after removing ~60 10mm bolts with >> blind >>>>>>>>> nuts and >>>>>>>>>>>>>> now >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I can?t access the pivot to remove the board. See pics...the >>>>>>>>> white >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> piece >>>>>>>>>>>>>> of >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> laminate? seems to be glasses into the hull. I?m afraid to >>>>>>>>> destroy >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> it by >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> prying. Can anyone confirm to me that this piece should be >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> removable? I >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> cants see any other way to lift the board out since the >> pivot >>>>> is >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> inaccessible. I?ll be at the boat for an hour more max, >> then I >>>>>>>>> have to >>>>>>>>>>>>>> head >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> home. Was really hoping to take the board with me! >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>> -- >>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>> ~~~ _/) ~~~ >>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>> Richard Beytagh >>>>>>>>>>>>>> Phone: 828 337 0180 >>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>> -------------- next part -------------- >>>>>>>>>>>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >>>>>>>>>>>>> Name: IMG_3661.jpg >>>>>>>>>>>>> Type: image/jpg >>>>>>>>>>>>> Size: 2852710 bytes >>>>>>>>>>>>> Desc: not available >>>>>>>>>>>>> URL: >>>>>>>>>>>>> < >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>> >>> >> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200524/1a8b1c27/attachment.jpg >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>> -------------- next part -------------- >>>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >>>>> Name: IMG_3700.jpg >>>>> Type: image/jpeg >>>>> Size: 2017697 bytes >>>>> Desc: not available >>>>> URL: < >>>>> >>> >> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200601/3d760085/attachment.jpg >>>>>> >>>>> >>> >>> >> >> From ric at stottarchitecture.com Tue Jun 2 08:58:56 2020 From: ric at stottarchitecture.com (Steelbone) Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2020 05:58:56 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Motor Mount Message-ID: <1591102736784-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Launch Day always brings a surprise that you never expect. This one is was especially shocking. Departing the launch ramp, happy that the mast raising and launch went smoothly, I untied and left the ramp under power. The wind on the nose and strong ebb tide current astern, a bridge to one side that I don't fit under for the first 100 yards and rocks on the right. I told my one experienced crew that all systems were go, but the conditions were sketchy, so if something went wrong, it might be scrabble to fend off bridge pilings, rocks or other boats. Less than a boat length out of the slip, I increased the power a little bit and the wood block of the motor mount broke off and the motor was gone. There was no indication of any rot visible when I repainted the block the day prior to launch. Normally I tie an outboard onto something so that if somehow it parts with the boat you don't need scuba gear to find it. I've learned this lesson a few times in my life, but in this case, I was secure in knowing that if the motor parted company with the boat, the motor mount lines would keep it attached. I didn't even connect the batter cables because the motor had started so easily with one pull, I figured I would do that later, when I had time. I asked a couple of recreation divers who were on site to look for it. They were happy to help but inexperienced and were afraid of the currents and murky water at the launch site. They tired and failed to find it. I went back the next morning at slack low tide and could see the Yamaha logo in about 5 feet of water - jumped in and hauled it to shallow water next to the floating dock and got help to haul it out. I never thought the lift system was very good and I wanted one that would lift the motor all the way up without having to tilt it as well. I know the lift systems have changed over the years and I don't really like the electric lifts I have seen. I want a longer throw manual lift. Stan - Can you send a replacement right away? If not, can anyone recommend an alternative mount - Garlick or something? I'm pickling the motor and hopefully it will recover from the dousing, but I need a new mount asap - any ideas? Ric Dadventure Hampton Bays -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From rlowe at vt.edu Tue Jun 2 09:46:25 2020 From: rlowe at vt.edu (Lowe, Rob) Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2020 13:46:25 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Motor Mount In-Reply-To: <1591102736784-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1591102736784-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: Ric, What the hell? The whole wood block gave way and took your motor with it? So not the entire lift but just the block attached to it? I think you win the prize for something, but not sure what that would be. Which lift do you have? - rob ________________________________ From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of Steelbone Sent: Tuesday, June 2, 2020 8:58 AM To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Motor Mount Launch Day always brings a surprise that you never expect. This one is was especially shocking. Departing the launch ramp, happy that the mast raising and launch went smoothly, I untied and left the ramp under power. The wind on the nose and strong ebb tide current astern, a bridge to one side that I don't fit under for the first 100 yards and rocks on the right. I told my one experienced crew that all systems were go, but the conditions were sketchy, so if something went wrong, it might be scrabble to fend off bridge pilings, rocks or other boats. Less than a boat length out of the slip, I increased the power a little bit and the wood block of the motor mount broke off and the motor was gone. There was no indication of any rot visible when I repainted the block the day prior to launch. Normally I tie an outboard onto something so that if somehow it parts with the boat you don't need scuba gear to find it. I've learned this lesson a few times in my life, but in this case, I was secure in knowing that if the motor parted company with the boat, the motor mount lines would keep it attached. I didn't even connect the batter cables because the motor had started so easily with one pull, I figured I would do that later, when I had time. I asked a couple of recreation divers who were on site to look for it. They were happy to help but inexperienced and were afraid of the currents and murky water at the launch site. They tired and failed to find it. I went back the next morning at slack low tide and could see the Yamaha logo in about 5 feet of water - jumped in and hauled it to shallow water next to the floating dock and got help to haul it out. I never thought the lift system was very good and I wanted one that would lift the motor all the way up without having to tilt it as well. I know the lift systems have changed over the years and I don't really like the electric lifts I have seen. I want a longer throw manual lift. Stan - Can you send a replacement right away? If not, can anyone recommend an alternative mount - Garlick or something? I'm pickling the motor and hopefully it will recover from the dousing, but I need a new mount asap - any ideas? Ric Dadventure Hampton Bays -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From ric at stottarchitecture.com Tue Jun 2 10:22:24 2020 From: ric at stottarchitecture.com (Richard Stott) Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2020 10:22:24 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Motor Mount In-Reply-To: References: <1591102736784-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <6D17479D-C715-4351-8438-B7C0FF1DFF4C@stottarchitecture.com> Right, just the wood block. I just never saw that one coming. I tried to attache Low rez jpg files but they didn?t go through. I?ll try again with PNG files . Let me know Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP www.stottarchitecture.com Office 631-283-1777 Cell 516-965-3164 > On Jun 2, 2020, at 9:46 AM, Lowe, Rob wrote: > > Ric, > What the hell? The whole wood block gave way and took your motor with it? So not the entire lift but just the block attached to it? I think you win the prize for something, but not sure what that would be. Which lift do you have? - rob > > ________________________________ > From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of Steelbone > Sent: Tuesday, June 2, 2020 8:58 AM > To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org > Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Motor Mount > > Launch Day always brings a surprise that you never expect. This one is was > especially shocking. > Departing the launch ramp, happy that the mast raising and launch went > smoothly, I untied and left the ramp under power. The wind on the nose and > strong ebb tide current astern, a bridge to one side that I don't fit under > for the first 100 yards and rocks on the right. I told my one experienced > crew that all systems were go, but the conditions were sketchy, so if > something went wrong, it might be scrabble to fend off bridge pilings, rocks > or other boats. > Less than a boat length out of the slip, I increased the power a little bit > and the wood block of the motor mount broke off and the motor was gone. > There was no indication of any rot visible when I repainted the block the > day prior to launch. Normally I tie an outboard onto something so that if > somehow it parts with the boat you don't need scuba gear to find it. I've > learned this lesson a few times in my life, but in this case, I was secure > in knowing that if the motor parted company with the boat, the motor mount > lines would keep it attached. I didn't even connect the batter cables > because the motor had started so easily with one pull, I figured I would do > that later, when I had time. > > I asked a couple of recreation divers who were on site to look for it. They > were happy to help but inexperienced and were afraid of the currents and > murky water at the launch site. They tired and failed to find it. I went > back the next morning at slack low tide and could see the Yamaha logo in > about 5 feet of water - jumped in and hauled it to shallow water next to > the floating dock and got help to haul it out. > > > I never thought the lift system was very good and I wanted one that would > lift the motor all the way up without having to tilt it as well. I know the > lift systems have changed over the years and I don't really like the > electric lifts I have seen. I want a longer throw manual lift. > Stan - Can you send a replacement right away? > If not, can anyone recommend an alternative mount - Garlick or something? > I'm pickling the motor and hopefully it will recover from the dousing, but I > need a new mount asap - any ideas? > Ric > Dadventure > Hampton Bays > > > > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From retiredtoby at gmail.com Tue Jun 2 11:21:41 2020 From: retiredtoby at gmail.com (Cary Tolbert) Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2020 11:21:41 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Motor Mount In-Reply-To: <6D17479D-C715-4351-8438-B7C0FF1DFF4C@stottarchitecture.com> References: <1591102736784-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <6D17479D-C715-4351-8438-B7C0FF1DFF4C@stottarchitecture.com> Message-ID: Richard, that is one of my fears also. I have a lite s/s chain and brass lock to attach my motor to the boat. It was not to prevent theft but to secure the motor to the boat. The lake may be small but has a large area that is over 100 feet deep. Cary S/V Whisper '86 Radford VA On Tue, Jun 2, 2020 at 10:22 AM Richard Stott wrote: > Right, just the wood block. > I just never saw that one coming. > > I tried to attache Low rez jpg files but they didn?t go through. > I?ll try again with PNG files . > Let me know > > Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP > www.stottarchitecture.com > Office 631-283-1777 > Cell 516-965-3164 > > > > > > > On Jun 2, 2020, at 9:46 AM, Lowe, Rob wrote: > > > > Ric, > > What the hell? The whole wood block gave way and took your motor with > it? So not the entire lift but just the block attached to it? I think you > win the prize for something, but not sure what that would be. Which lift > do you have? - rob > > > > ________________________________ > > From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of > Steelbone > > Sent: Tuesday, June 2, 2020 8:58 AM > > To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org > > Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Motor Mount > > > > Launch Day always brings a surprise that you never expect. This one is > was > > especially shocking. > > Departing the launch ramp, happy that the mast raising and launch went > > smoothly, I untied and left the ramp under power. The wind on the nose > and > > strong ebb tide current astern, a bridge to one side that I don't fit > under > > for the first 100 yards and rocks on the right. I told my one experienced > > crew that all systems were go, but the conditions were sketchy, so if > > something went wrong, it might be scrabble to fend off bridge pilings, > rocks > > or other boats. > > Less than a boat length out of the slip, I increased the power a little > bit > > and the wood block of the motor mount broke off and the motor was gone. > > There was no indication of any rot visible when I repainted the block the > > day prior to launch. Normally I tie an outboard onto something so that if > > somehow it parts with the boat you don't need scuba gear to find it. I've > > learned this lesson a few times in my life, but in this case, I was > secure > > in knowing that if the motor parted company with the boat, the motor > mount > > lines would keep it attached. I didn't even connect the batter cables > > because the motor had started so easily with one pull, I figured I would > do > > that later, when I had time. > > > > I asked a couple of recreation divers who were on site to look for it. > They > > were happy to help but inexperienced and were afraid of the currents and > > murky water at the launch site. They tired and failed to find it. I > went > > back the next morning at slack low tide and could see the Yamaha logo in > > about 5 feet of water - jumped in and hauled it to shallow water next to > > the floating dock and got help to haul it out. > > > > > > I never thought the lift system was very good and I wanted one that would > > lift the motor all the way up without having to tilt it as well. I know > the > > lift systems have changed over the years and I don't really like the > > electric lifts I have seen. I want a longer throw manual lift. > > Stan - Can you send a replacement right away? > > If not, can anyone recommend an alternative mount - Garlick or something? > > I'm pickling the motor and hopefully it will recover from the dousing, > but I > > need a new mount asap - any ideas? > > Ric > > Dadventure > > Hampton Bays > > > > > > > > -- > > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > > From ric at stottarchitecture.com Tue Jun 2 11:26:47 2020 From: ric at stottarchitecture.com (Richard Stott) Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2020 11:26:47 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Motor Mount In-Reply-To: References: <1591102736784-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <6D17479D-C715-4351-8438-B7C0FF1DFF4C@stottarchitecture.com> Message-ID: <548086BD-F675-4285-87ED-CEEF3FF561D8@stottarchitecture.com> I sent 4 or 5 photos - if they didn?t go through, can someone help me sort that out. Ric adventure Hampton Bays , NY Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP www.stottarchitecture.com Office 631-283-1777 Cell 516-965-3164 > On Jun 2, 2020, at 11:21 AM, Cary Tolbert wrote: > > Richard, that is one of my fears also. I have a lite s/s chain and brass > lock to attach my motor to the boat. > It was not to prevent theft but to secure the motor to the boat. The lake > may be small but has a large area that is over 100 feet deep. > Cary > S/V Whisper '86 > Radford VA > > On Tue, Jun 2, 2020 at 10:22 AM Richard Stott > wrote: > >> Right, just the wood block. >> I just never saw that one coming. >> >> I tried to attache Low rez jpg files but they didn?t go through. >> I?ll try again with PNG files . >> Let me know >> >> Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP >> www.stottarchitecture.com >> Office 631-283-1777 >> Cell 516-965-3164 >> >> >> >> >> >>> On Jun 2, 2020, at 9:46 AM, Lowe, Rob wrote: >>> >>> Ric, >>> What the hell? The whole wood block gave way and took your motor with >> it? So not the entire lift but just the block attached to it? I think you >> win the prize for something, but not sure what that would be. Which lift >> do you have? - rob >>> >>> ________________________________ >>> From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of >> Steelbone >>> Sent: Tuesday, June 2, 2020 8:58 AM >>> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org >>> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Motor Mount >>> >>> Launch Day always brings a surprise that you never expect. This one is >> was >>> especially shocking. >>> Departing the launch ramp, happy that the mast raising and launch went >>> smoothly, I untied and left the ramp under power. The wind on the nose >> and >>> strong ebb tide current astern, a bridge to one side that I don't fit >> under >>> for the first 100 yards and rocks on the right. I told my one experienced >>> crew that all systems were go, but the conditions were sketchy, so if >>> something went wrong, it might be scrabble to fend off bridge pilings, >> rocks >>> or other boats. >>> Less than a boat length out of the slip, I increased the power a little >> bit >>> and the wood block of the motor mount broke off and the motor was gone. >>> There was no indication of any rot visible when I repainted the block the >>> day prior to launch. Normally I tie an outboard onto something so that if >>> somehow it parts with the boat you don't need scuba gear to find it. I've >>> learned this lesson a few times in my life, but in this case, I was >> secure >>> in knowing that if the motor parted company with the boat, the motor >> mount >>> lines would keep it attached. I didn't even connect the batter cables >>> because the motor had started so easily with one pull, I figured I would >> do >>> that later, when I had time. >>> >>> I asked a couple of recreation divers who were on site to look for it. >> They >>> were happy to help but inexperienced and were afraid of the currents and >>> murky water at the launch site. They tired and failed to find it. I >> went >>> back the next morning at slack low tide and could see the Yamaha logo in >>> about 5 feet of water - jumped in and hauled it to shallow water next to >>> the floating dock and got help to haul it out. >>> >>> >>> I never thought the lift system was very good and I wanted one that would >>> lift the motor all the way up without having to tilt it as well. I know >> the >>> lift systems have changed over the years and I don't really like the >>> electric lifts I have seen. I want a longer throw manual lift. >>> Stan - Can you send a replacement right away? >>> If not, can anyone recommend an alternative mount - Garlick or something? >>> I'm pickling the motor and hopefully it will recover from the dousing, >> but I >>> need a new mount asap - any ideas? >>> Ric >>> Dadventure >>> Hampton Bays >>> >>> >>> >>> -- >>> Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ >> >> From rlowe at vt.edu Tue Jun 2 11:36:38 2020 From: rlowe at vt.edu (Lowe, Rob) Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2020 15:36:38 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Motor Mount In-Reply-To: <548086BD-F675-4285-87ED-CEEF3FF561D8@stottarchitecture.com> References: <1591102736784-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <6D17479D-C715-4351-8438-B7C0FF1DFF4C@stottarchitecture.com> , <548086BD-F675-4285-87ED-CEEF3FF561D8@stottarchitecture.com> Message-ID: Ric, Did not come through. if you want to send them directly to me at rlowe at vt.edu I'll try to post them. I've had to do that in the past. You using a Mac by chance? Sometimes that been an issue. - rob ________________________________ From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of Richard Stott Sent: Tuesday, June 2, 2020 11:26 AM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Motor Mount I sent 4 or 5 photos - if they didn?t go through, can someone help me sort that out. Ric adventure Hampton Bays , NY Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP www.stottarchitecture.com Office 631-283-1777 Cell 516-965-3164 > On Jun 2, 2020, at 11:21 AM, Cary Tolbert wrote: > > Richard, that is one of my fears also. I have a lite s/s chain and brass > lock to attach my motor to the boat. > It was not to prevent theft but to secure the motor to the boat. The lake > may be small but has a large area that is over 100 feet deep. > Cary > S/V Whisper '86 > Radford VA > > On Tue, Jun 2, 2020 at 10:22 AM Richard Stott > wrote: > >> Right, just the wood block. >> I just never saw that one coming. >> >> I tried to attache Low rez jpg files but they didn?t go through. >> I?ll try again with PNG files . >> Let me know >> >> Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP >> www.stottarchitecture.com >> Office 631-283-1777 >> Cell 516-965-3164 >> >> >> >> >> >>> On Jun 2, 2020, at 9:46 AM, Lowe, Rob wrote: >>> >>> Ric, >>> What the hell? The whole wood block gave way and took your motor with >> it? So not the entire lift but just the block attached to it? I think you >> win the prize for something, but not sure what that would be. Which lift >> do you have? - rob >>> >>> ________________________________ >>> From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of >> Steelbone >>> Sent: Tuesday, June 2, 2020 8:58 AM >>> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org >>> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Motor Mount >>> >>> Launch Day always brings a surprise that you never expect. This one is >> was >>> especially shocking. >>> Departing the launch ramp, happy that the mast raising and launch went >>> smoothly, I untied and left the ramp under power. The wind on the nose >> and >>> strong ebb tide current astern, a bridge to one side that I don't fit >> under >>> for the first 100 yards and rocks on the right. I told my one experienced >>> crew that all systems were go, but the conditions were sketchy, so if >>> something went wrong, it might be scrabble to fend off bridge pilings, >> rocks >>> or other boats. >>> Less than a boat length out of the slip, I increased the power a little >> bit >>> and the wood block of the motor mount broke off and the motor was gone. >>> There was no indication of any rot visible when I repainted the block the >>> day prior to launch. Normally I tie an outboard onto something so that if >>> somehow it parts with the boat you don't need scuba gear to find it. I've >>> learned this lesson a few times in my life, but in this case, I was >> secure >>> in knowing that if the motor parted company with the boat, the motor >> mount >>> lines would keep it attached. I didn't even connect the batter cables >>> because the motor had started so easily with one pull, I figured I would >> do >>> that later, when I had time. >>> >>> I asked a couple of recreation divers who were on site to look for it. >> They >>> were happy to help but inexperienced and were afraid of the currents and >>> murky water at the launch site. They tired and failed to find it. I >> went >>> back the next morning at slack low tide and could see the Yamaha logo in >>> about 5 feet of water - jumped in and hauled it to shallow water next to >>> the floating dock and got help to haul it out. >>> >>> >>> I never thought the lift system was very good and I wanted one that would >>> lift the motor all the way up without having to tilt it as well. I know >> the >>> lift systems have changed over the years and I don't really like the >>> electric lifts I have seen. I want a longer throw manual lift. >>> Stan - Can you send a replacement right away? >>> If not, can anyone recommend an alternative mount - Garlick or something? >>> I'm pickling the motor and hopefully it will recover from the dousing, >> but I >>> need a new mount asap - any ideas? >>> Ric >>> Dadventure >>> Hampton Bays >>> >>> >>> >>> -- >>> Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ >> >> From chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com Tue Jun 2 11:48:23 2020 From: chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com (Chris Geankoplis) Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2020 10:48:23 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Motor Mount In-Reply-To: <1591102736784-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1591102736784-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: So sorry to hear about your mishap. I suspect there a lot of outboards littering the bottoms of lots of lakes, rivers and bays. Sometimes things just fail without warning. Anyway I hope you find the right mount. I lost a motor off Poplar Island in the Chesapeake and had to find it in the mud. My wife was surprised to see an outboard in the bathtub that evening. Chris Geankoplis Enosis On Tue, Jun 2, 2020 at 7:59 AM Steelbone wrote: > Launch Day always brings a surprise that you never expect. This one is was > especially shocking. > Departing the launch ramp, happy that the mast raising and launch went > smoothly, I untied and left the ramp under power. The wind on the nose and > strong ebb tide current astern, a bridge to one side that I don't fit > under > for the first 100 yards and rocks on the right. I told my one experienced > crew that all systems were go, but the conditions were sketchy, so if > something went wrong, it might be scrabble to fend off bridge pilings, > rocks > or other boats. > Less than a boat length out of the slip, I increased the power a little bit > and the wood block of the motor mount broke off and the motor was gone. > There was no indication of any rot visible when I repainted the block the > day prior to launch. Normally I tie an outboard onto something so that if > somehow it parts with the boat you don't need scuba gear to find it. I've > learned this lesson a few times in my life, but in this case, I was secure > in knowing that if the motor parted company with the boat, the motor mount > lines would keep it attached. I didn't even connect the batter cables > because the motor had started so easily with one pull, I figured I would do > that later, when I had time. > > I asked a couple of recreation divers who were on site to look for it. > They > were happy to help but inexperienced and were afraid of the currents and > murky water at the launch site. They tired and failed to find it. I went > back the next morning at slack low tide and could see the Yamaha logo in > about 5 feet of water - jumped in and hauled it to shallow water next to > the floating dock and got help to haul it out. > > > I never thought the lift system was very good and I wanted one that would > lift the motor all the way up without having to tilt it as well. I know > the > lift systems have changed over the years and I don't really like the > electric lifts I have seen. I want a longer throw manual lift. > Stan - Can you send a replacement right away? > If not, can anyone recommend an alternative mount - Garlick or something? > I'm pickling the motor and hopefully it will recover from the dousing, but > I > need a new mount asap - any ideas? > Ric > Dadventure > Hampton Bays > > > > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > From rlowe at vt.edu Tue Jun 2 11:52:38 2020 From: rlowe at vt.edu (Lowe, Rob) Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2020 15:52:38 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Motor Mount In-Reply-To: References: <1591102736784-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <6D17479D-C715-4351-8438-B7C0FF1DFF4C@stottarchitecture.com>, Message-ID: I'm with Cary. I've already had one motor stolen off my boat while at the marina (long story) but i also fear losing my motor. I now have a padlock on my motor and use a line tied from my motor to the stern eyelet just in case. - rob ________________________________ From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of Cary Tolbert Sent: Tuesday, June 2, 2020 11:21 AM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Motor Mount Richard, that is one of my fears also. I have a lite s/s chain and brass lock to attach my motor to the boat. It was not to prevent theft but to secure the motor to the boat. The lake may be small but has a large area that is over 100 feet deep. Cary S/V Whisper '86 Radford VA On Tue, Jun 2, 2020 at 10:22 AM Richard Stott wrote: > Right, just the wood block. > I just never saw that one coming. > > I tried to attache Low rez jpg files but they didn?t go through. > I?ll try again with PNG files . > Let me know > > Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP > www.stottarchitecture.com > Office 631-283-1777 > Cell 516-965-3164 > > > > > > > On Jun 2, 2020, at 9:46 AM, Lowe, Rob wrote: > > > > Ric, > > What the hell? The whole wood block gave way and took your motor with > it? So not the entire lift but just the block attached to it? I think you > win the prize for something, but not sure what that would be. Which lift > do you have? - rob > > > > ________________________________ > > From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of > Steelbone > > Sent: Tuesday, June 2, 2020 8:58 AM > > To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org > > Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Motor Mount > > > > Launch Day always brings a surprise that you never expect. This one is > was > > especially shocking. > > Departing the launch ramp, happy that the mast raising and launch went > > smoothly, I untied and left the ramp under power. The wind on the nose > and > > strong ebb tide current astern, a bridge to one side that I don't fit > under > > for the first 100 yards and rocks on the right. I told my one experienced > > crew that all systems were go, but the conditions were sketchy, so if > > something went wrong, it might be scrabble to fend off bridge pilings, > rocks > > or other boats. > > Less than a boat length out of the slip, I increased the power a little > bit > > and the wood block of the motor mount broke off and the motor was gone. > > There was no indication of any rot visible when I repainted the block the > > day prior to launch. Normally I tie an outboard onto something so that if > > somehow it parts with the boat you don't need scuba gear to find it. I've > > learned this lesson a few times in my life, but in this case, I was > secure > > in knowing that if the motor parted company with the boat, the motor > mount > > lines would keep it attached. I didn't even connect the batter cables > > because the motor had started so easily with one pull, I figured I would > do > > that later, when I had time. > > > > I asked a couple of recreation divers who were on site to look for it. > They > > were happy to help but inexperienced and were afraid of the currents and > > murky water at the launch site. They tired and failed to find it. I > went > > back the next morning at slack low tide and could see the Yamaha logo in > > about 5 feet of water - jumped in and hauled it to shallow water next to > > the floating dock and got help to haul it out. > > > > > > I never thought the lift system was very good and I wanted one that would > > lift the motor all the way up without having to tilt it as well. I know > the > > lift systems have changed over the years and I don't really like the > > electric lifts I have seen. I want a longer throw manual lift. > > Stan - Can you send a replacement right away? > > If not, can anyone recommend an alternative mount - Garlick or something? > > I'm pickling the motor and hopefully it will recover from the dousing, > but I > > need a new mount asap - any ideas? > > Ric > > Dadventure > > Hampton Bays > > > > > > > > -- > > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > > From mweisner at ebsmed.com Tue Jun 2 11:55:22 2020 From: mweisner at ebsmed.com (Michael D. Weisner) Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2020 11:55:22 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Motor Mount In-Reply-To: References: <1591102736784-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <009701d638f6$3a85b600$af912200$@ebsmed.com> Chris, Seriously? She was surprised? Mike s/v Wind Lass ('91) Nissequogue River, NY -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of Chris Geankoplis Sent: Tuesday, June 2, 2020 11:48 AM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Motor Mount So sorry to hear about your mishap. I suspect there a lot of outboards littering the bottoms of lots of lakes, rivers and bays. Sometimes things just fail without warning. Anyway I hope you find the right mount. I lost a motor off Poplar Island in the Chesapeake and had to find it in the mud. My wife was surprised to see an outboard in the bathtub that evening. Chris Geankoplis Enosis From ric at stottarchitecture.com Tue Jun 2 11:55:43 2020 From: ric at stottarchitecture.com (Richard Stott) Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2020 11:55:43 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Motor Mount In-Reply-To: References: <1591102736784-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <6D17479D-C715-4351-8438-B7C0FF1DFF4C@stottarchitecture.com> <548086BD-F675-4285-87ED-CEEF3FF561D8@stottarchitecture.com> Message-ID: <7F3A0E3B-43B8-467A-B57D-65CE82F9D7E3@stottarchitecture.com> Yes - using a MAC Gotta be a workaround ! I sent you the Pics Rob - if you can post them for me - thank You I really want to stick with Stan, the rhodes 22 and original motor mount/lift but I think there are better options out there. Any opinions on that? Anyone using alternatives? > Ric > Dadventure > Hampton Bays , NY ?84 Continental Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP www.stottarchitecture.com Office 631-283-1777 Cell 516-965-3164 > On Jun 2, 2020, at 11:36 AM, Lowe, Rob wrote: > > Ric, > Did not come through. if you want to send them directly to me at rlowe at vt.edu I'll try to post them. I've had to do that in the past. You using a Mac by chance? Sometimes that been an issue. - rob > > > ________________________________ > From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of Richard Stott > Sent: Tuesday, June 2, 2020 11:26 AM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Motor Mount > > I sent 4 or 5 photos - if they didn?t go through, can someone help me sort that out. > Ric > adventure > Hampton Bays , NY > > Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP > www.stottarchitecture.com > Office 631-283-1777 > Cell 516-965-3164 > > > > > >> On Jun 2, 2020, at 11:21 AM, Cary Tolbert wrote: >> >> Richard, that is one of my fears also. I have a lite s/s chain and brass >> lock to attach my motor to the boat. >> It was not to prevent theft but to secure the motor to the boat. The lake >> may be small but has a large area that is over 100 feet deep. >> Cary >> S/V Whisper '86 >> Radford VA >> >> On Tue, Jun 2, 2020 at 10:22 AM Richard Stott >> wrote: >> >>> Right, just the wood block. >>> I just never saw that one coming. >>> >>> I tried to attache Low rez jpg files but they didn?t go through. >>> I?ll try again with PNG files . >>> Let me know >>> >>> Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP >>> www.stottarchitecture.com >>> Office 631-283-1777 >>> Cell 516-965-3164 >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>>> On Jun 2, 2020, at 9:46 AM, Lowe, Rob wrote: >>>> >>>> Ric, >>>> What the hell? The whole wood block gave way and took your motor with >>> it? So not the entire lift but just the block attached to it? I think you >>> win the prize for something, but not sure what that would be. Which lift >>> do you have? - rob >>>> >>>> ________________________________ >>>> From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of >>> Steelbone >>>> Sent: Tuesday, June 2, 2020 8:58 AM >>>> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org >>>> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Motor Mount >>>> >>>> Launch Day always brings a surprise that you never expect. This one is >>> was >>>> especially shocking. >>>> Departing the launch ramp, happy that the mast raising and launch went >>>> smoothly, I untied and left the ramp under power. The wind on the nose >>> and >>>> strong ebb tide current astern, a bridge to one side that I don't fit >>> under >>>> for the first 100 yards and rocks on the right. I told my one experienced >>>> crew that all systems were go, but the conditions were sketchy, so if >>>> something went wrong, it might be scrabble to fend off bridge pilings, >>> rocks >>>> or other boats. >>>> Less than a boat length out of the slip, I increased the power a little >>> bit >>>> and the wood block of the motor mount broke off and the motor was gone. >>>> There was no indication of any rot visible when I repainted the block the >>>> day prior to launch. Normally I tie an outboard onto something so that if >>>> somehow it parts with the boat you don't need scuba gear to find it. I've >>>> learned this lesson a few times in my life, but in this case, I was >>> secure >>>> in knowing that if the motor parted company with the boat, the motor >>> mount >>>> lines would keep it attached. I didn't even connect the batter cables >>>> because the motor had started so easily with one pull, I figured I would >>> do >>>> that later, when I had time. >>>> >>>> I asked a couple of recreation divers who were on site to look for it. >>> They >>>> were happy to help but inexperienced and were afraid of the currents and >>>> murky water at the launch site. They tired and failed to find it. I >>> went >>>> back the next morning at slack low tide and could see the Yamaha logo in >>>> about 5 feet of water - jumped in and hauled it to shallow water next to >>>> the floating dock and got help to haul it out. >>>> >>>> >>>> I never thought the lift system was very good and I wanted one that would >>>> lift the motor all the way up without having to tilt it as well. I know >>> the >>>> lift systems have changed over the years and I don't really like the >>>> electric lifts I have seen. I want a longer throw manual lift. >>>> Stan - Can you send a replacement right away? >>>> If not, can anyone recommend an alternative mount - Garlick or something? >>>> I'm pickling the motor and hopefully it will recover from the dousing, >>> but I >>>> need a new mount asap - any ideas? >>>> Ric >>>> Dadventure >>>> Hampton Bays >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> -- >>>> Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ >>> >>> > From chrissailorman at gmail.com Tue Jun 2 12:01:58 2020 From: chrissailorman at gmail.com (Christopher Greco) Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2020 12:01:58 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Motor Mount In-Reply-To: <1591102736784-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1591102736784-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: Call me... I have a folding one off an O day Mariner you can have... Chris Greco 631-871-6055 Sent from my iPhone > On Jun 2, 2020, at 8:59 AM, Steelbone wrote: > > ?Launch Day always brings a surprise that you never expect. This one is was > especially shocking. > Departing the launch ramp, happy that the mast raising and launch went > smoothly, I untied and left the ramp under power. The wind on the nose and > strong ebb tide current astern, a bridge to one side that I don't fit under > for the first 100 yards and rocks on the right. I told my one experienced > crew that all systems were go, but the conditions were sketchy, so if > something went wrong, it might be scrabble to fend off bridge pilings, rocks > or other boats. > Less than a boat length out of the slip, I increased the power a little bit > and the wood block of the motor mount broke off and the motor was gone. > There was no indication of any rot visible when I repainted the block the > day prior to launch. Normally I tie an outboard onto something so that if > somehow it parts with the boat you don't need scuba gear to find it. I've > learned this lesson a few times in my life, but in this case, I was secure > in knowing that if the motor parted company with the boat, the motor mount > lines would keep it attached. I didn't even connect the batter cables > because the motor had started so easily with one pull, I figured I would do > that later, when I had time. > > I asked a couple of recreation divers who were on site to look for it. They > were happy to help but inexperienced and were afraid of the currents and > murky water at the launch site. They tired and failed to find it. I went > back the next morning at slack low tide and could see the Yamaha logo in > about 5 feet of water - jumped in and hauled it to shallow water next to > the floating dock and got help to haul it out. > > > I never thought the lift system was very good and I wanted one that would > lift the motor all the way up without having to tilt it as well. I know the > lift systems have changed over the years and I don't really like the > electric lifts I have seen. I want a longer throw manual lift. > Stan - Can you send a replacement right away? > If not, can anyone recommend an alternative mount - Garlick or something? > I'm pickling the motor and hopefully it will recover from the dousing, but I > need a new mount asap - any ideas? > Ric > Dadventure > Hampton Bays > > > > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From rlowe at vt.edu Tue Jun 2 12:03:41 2020 From: rlowe at vt.edu (Lowe, Rob) Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2020 16:03:41 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Motor Mount In-Reply-To: References: <1591102736784-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <6D17479D-C715-4351-8438-B7C0FF1DFF4C@stottarchitecture.com> , <548086BD-F675-4285-87ED-CEEF3FF561D8@stottarchitecture.com>, Message-ID: Ric Photo 1. Lets see if this works. It's a png file. - rob ________________________________ From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of Lowe, Rob Sent: Tuesday, June 2, 2020 11:36 AM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Motor Mount Ric, Did not come through. if you want to send them directly to me at rlowe at vt.edu I'll try to post them. I've had to do that in the past. You using a Mac by chance? Sometimes that been an issue. - rob ________________________________ From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of Richard Stott Sent: Tuesday, June 2, 2020 11:26 AM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Motor Mount I sent 4 or 5 photos - if they didn?t go through, can someone help me sort that out. Ric adventure Hampton Bays , NY Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP www.stottarchitecture.com> Office 631-283-1777 Cell 516-965-3164 > On Jun 2, 2020, at 11:21 AM, Cary Tolbert wrote: > > Richard, that is one of my fears also. I have a lite s/s chain and brass > lock to attach my motor to the boat. > It was not to prevent theft but to secure the motor to the boat. The lake > may be small but has a large area that is over 100 feet deep. > Cary > S/V Whisper '86 > Radford VA > > On Tue, Jun 2, 2020 at 10:22 AM Richard Stott > wrote: > >> Right, just the wood block. >> I just never saw that one coming. >> >> I tried to attache Low rez jpg files but they didn?t go through. >> I?ll try again with PNG files . >> Let me know >> >> Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP >> www.stottarchitecture.com> >> Office 631-283-1777 >> Cell 516-965-3164 >> >> >> >> >> >>> On Jun 2, 2020, at 9:46 AM, Lowe, Rob wrote: >>> >>> Ric, >>> What the hell? The whole wood block gave way and took your motor with >> it? So not the entire lift but just the block attached to it? I think you >> win the prize for something, but not sure what that would be. Which lift >> do you have? - rob >>> >>> ________________________________ >>> From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of >> Steelbone >>> Sent: Tuesday, June 2, 2020 8:58 AM >>> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org >>> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Motor Mount >>> >>> Launch Day always brings a surprise that you never expect. This one is >> was >>> especially shocking. >>> Departing the launch ramp, happy that the mast raising and launch went >>> smoothly, I untied and left the ramp under power. The wind on the nose >> and >>> strong ebb tide current astern, a bridge to one side that I don't fit >> under >>> for the first 100 yards and rocks on the right. I told my one experienced >>> crew that all systems were go, but the conditions were sketchy, so if >>> something went wrong, it might be scrabble to fend off bridge pilings, >> rocks >>> or other boats. >>> Less than a boat length out of the slip, I increased the power a little >> bit >>> and the wood block of the motor mount broke off and the motor was gone. >>> There was no indication of any rot visible when I repainted the block the >>> day prior to launch. Normally I tie an outboard onto something so that if >>> somehow it parts with the boat you don't need scuba gear to find it. I've >>> learned this lesson a few times in my life, but in this case, I was >> secure >>> in knowing that if the motor parted company with the boat, the motor >> mount >>> lines would keep it attached. I didn't even connect the batter cables >>> because the motor had started so easily with one pull, I figured I would >> do >>> that later, when I had time. >>> >>> I asked a couple of recreation divers who were on site to look for it. >> They >>> were happy to help but inexperienced and were afraid of the currents and >>> murky water at the launch site. They tired and failed to find it. I >> went >>> back the next morning at slack low tide and could see the Yamaha logo in >>> about 5 feet of water - jumped in and hauled it to shallow water next to >>> the floating dock and got help to haul it out. >>> >>> >>> I never thought the lift system was very good and I wanted one that would >>> lift the motor all the way up without having to tilt it as well. I know >> the >>> lift systems have changed over the years and I don't really like the >>> electric lifts I have seen. I want a longer throw manual lift. >>> Stan - Can you send a replacement right away? >>> If not, can anyone recommend an alternative mount - Garlick or something? >>> I'm pickling the motor and hopefully it will recover from the dousing, >> but I >>> need a new mount asap - any ideas? >>> Ric >>> Dadventure >>> Hampton Bays >>> >>> >>> >>> -- >>> Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ >> >> -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_3900.png Type: image/png Size: 151727 bytes Desc: IMG_3900.png URL: From chrissailorman at gmail.com Tue Jun 2 12:04:13 2020 From: chrissailorman at gmail.com (Christopher Greco) Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2020 12:04:13 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Motor Mount In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Ps ...I'm in Ridge, just west of Wm Floyd Pkwy, n of 25 Sent from my iPhone > On Jun 2, 2020, at 9:46 AM, Lowe, Rob wrote: > > ?Ric, > What the hell? The whole wood block gave way and took your motor with it? So not the entire lift but just the block attached to it? I think you win the prize for something, but not sure what that would be. Which lift do you have? - rob > > ________________________________ > From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of Steelbone > Sent: Tuesday, June 2, 2020 8:58 AM > To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org > Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Motor Mount > > Launch Day always brings a surprise that you never expect. This one is was > especially shocking. > Departing the launch ramp, happy that the mast raising and launch went > smoothly, I untied and left the ramp under power. The wind on the nose and > strong ebb tide current astern, a bridge to one side that I don't fit under > for the first 100 yards and rocks on the right. I told my one experienced > crew that all systems were go, but the conditions were sketchy, so if > something went wrong, it might be scrabble to fend off bridge pilings, rocks > or other boats. > Less than a boat length out of the slip, I increased the power a little bit > and the wood block of the motor mount broke off and the motor was gone. > There was no indication of any rot visible when I repainted the block the > day prior to launch. Normally I tie an outboard onto something so that if > somehow it parts with the boat you don't need scuba gear to find it. I've > learned this lesson a few times in my life, but in this case, I was secure > in knowing that if the motor parted company with the boat, the motor mount > lines would keep it attached. I didn't even connect the batter cables > because the motor had started so easily with one pull, I figured I would do > that later, when I had time. > > I asked a couple of recreation divers who were on site to look for it. They > were happy to help but inexperienced and were afraid of the currents and > murky water at the launch site. They tired and failed to find it. I went > back the next morning at slack low tide and could see the Yamaha logo in > about 5 feet of water - jumped in and hauled it to shallow water next to > the floating dock and got help to haul it out. > > > I never thought the lift system was very good and I wanted one that would > lift the motor all the way up without having to tilt it as well. I know the > lift systems have changed over the years and I don't really like the > electric lifts I have seen. I want a longer throw manual lift. > Stan - Can you send a replacement right away? > If not, can anyone recommend an alternative mount - Garlick or something? > I'm pickling the motor and hopefully it will recover from the dousing, but I > need a new mount asap - any ideas? > Ric > Dadventure > Hampton Bays > > > > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From rlowe at vt.edu Tue Jun 2 12:05:44 2020 From: rlowe at vt.edu (Lowe, Rob) Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2020 16:05:44 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Motor Mount In-Reply-To: References: <1591102736784-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <6D17479D-C715-4351-8438-B7C0FF1DFF4C@stottarchitecture.com> , <548086BD-F675-4285-87ED-CEEF3FF561D8@stottarchitecture.com>, , Message-ID: Ok, that worked. Here are the rest. - rob -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... 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Name: IMG_3926.png Type: image/png Size: 210406 bytes Desc: IMG_3926.png URL: From rlowe at vt.edu Tue Jun 2 12:09:22 2020 From: rlowe at vt.edu (Lowe, Rob) Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2020 16:09:22 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Motor Mount In-Reply-To: <7F3A0E3B-43B8-467A-B57D-65CE82F9D7E3@stottarchitecture.com> References: <1591102736784-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <6D17479D-C715-4351-8438-B7C0FF1DFF4C@stottarchitecture.com> <548086BD-F675-4285-87ED-CEEF3FF561D8@stottarchitecture.com> , <7F3A0E3B-43B8-467A-B57D-65CE82F9D7E3@stottarchitecture.com> Message-ID: Ric, I had to attach each photo one at a time. Looks like what you sent me was a group or an album or something. Once I downloaded them, I could attach separately. - rob ________________________________ From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of Richard Stott Sent: Tuesday, June 2, 2020 11:55 AM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Motor Mount Yes - using a MAC Gotta be a workaround ! I sent you the Pics Rob - if you can post them for me - thank You I really want to stick with Stan, the rhodes 22 and original motor mount/lift but I think there are better options out there. Any opinions on that? Anyone using alternatives? > Ric > Dadventure > Hampton Bays , NY ?84 Continental Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP www.stottarchitecture.com Office 631-283-1777 Cell 516-965-3164 > On Jun 2, 2020, at 11:36 AM, Lowe, Rob wrote: > > Ric, > Did not come through. if you want to send them directly to me at rlowe at vt.edu I'll try to post them. I've had to do that in the past. You using a Mac by chance? Sometimes that been an issue. - rob > > > ________________________________ > From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of Richard Stott > Sent: Tuesday, June 2, 2020 11:26 AM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Motor Mount > > I sent 4 or 5 photos - if they didn?t go through, can someone help me sort that out. > Ric > adventure > Hampton Bays , NY > > Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP > www.stottarchitecture.com> > Office 631-283-1777 > Cell 516-965-3164 > > > > > >> On Jun 2, 2020, at 11:21 AM, Cary Tolbert wrote: >> >> Richard, that is one of my fears also. I have a lite s/s chain and brass >> lock to attach my motor to the boat. >> It was not to prevent theft but to secure the motor to the boat. The lake >> may be small but has a large area that is over 100 feet deep. >> Cary >> S/V Whisper '86 >> Radford VA >> >> On Tue, Jun 2, 2020 at 10:22 AM Richard Stott >> wrote: >> >>> Right, just the wood block. >>> I just never saw that one coming. >>> >>> I tried to attache Low rez jpg files but they didn?t go through. >>> I?ll try again with PNG files . >>> Let me know >>> >>> Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP >>> www.stottarchitecture.com> >>> Office 631-283-1777 >>> Cell 516-965-3164 >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>>> On Jun 2, 2020, at 9:46 AM, Lowe, Rob wrote: >>>> >>>> Ric, >>>> What the hell? The whole wood block gave way and took your motor with >>> it? So not the entire lift but just the block attached to it? I think you >>> win the prize for something, but not sure what that would be. Which lift >>> do you have? - rob >>>> >>>> ________________________________ >>>> From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of >>> Steelbone >>>> Sent: Tuesday, June 2, 2020 8:58 AM >>>> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org >>>> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Motor Mount >>>> >>>> Launch Day always brings a surprise that you never expect. This one is >>> was >>>> especially shocking. >>>> Departing the launch ramp, happy that the mast raising and launch went >>>> smoothly, I untied and left the ramp under power. The wind on the nose >>> and >>>> strong ebb tide current astern, a bridge to one side that I don't fit >>> under >>>> for the first 100 yards and rocks on the right. I told my one experienced >>>> crew that all systems were go, but the conditions were sketchy, so if >>>> something went wrong, it might be scrabble to fend off bridge pilings, >>> rocks >>>> or other boats. >>>> Less than a boat length out of the slip, I increased the power a little >>> bit >>>> and the wood block of the motor mount broke off and the motor was gone. >>>> There was no indication of any rot visible when I repainted the block the >>>> day prior to launch. Normally I tie an outboard onto something so that if >>>> somehow it parts with the boat you don't need scuba gear to find it. I've >>>> learned this lesson a few times in my life, but in this case, I was >>> secure >>>> in knowing that if the motor parted company with the boat, the motor >>> mount >>>> lines would keep it attached. I didn't even connect the batter cables >>>> because the motor had started so easily with one pull, I figured I would >>> do >>>> that later, when I had time. >>>> >>>> I asked a couple of recreation divers who were on site to look for it. >>> They >>>> were happy to help but inexperienced and were afraid of the currents and >>>> murky water at the launch site. They tired and failed to find it. I >>> went >>>> back the next morning at slack low tide and could see the Yamaha logo in >>>> about 5 feet of water - jumped in and hauled it to shallow water next to >>>> the floating dock and got help to haul it out. >>>> >>>> >>>> I never thought the lift system was very good and I wanted one that would >>>> lift the motor all the way up without having to tilt it as well. I know >>> the >>>> lift systems have changed over the years and I don't really like the >>>> electric lifts I have seen. I want a longer throw manual lift. >>>> Stan - Can you send a replacement right away? >>>> If not, can anyone recommend an alternative mount - Garlick or something? >>>> I'm pickling the motor and hopefully it will recover from the dousing, >>> but I >>>> need a new mount asap - any ideas? >>>> Ric >>>> Dadventure >>>> Hampton Bays >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> -- >>>> Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ >>> >>> > From ric at stottarchitecture.com Tue Jun 2 12:13:05 2020 From: ric at stottarchitecture.com (Richard Stott) Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2020 12:13:05 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Motor Mount In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <03FD3E2B-C823-4E42-8483-33FB5A89E980@stottarchitecture.com> Thanks Rob I could of course, for cheap, I could replace the wood mounting block, but I?m looking for a better system. Chris Greco has already offered a free alternative replacement and I?ll call him about it. What a great group of people! Thanks again. Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP www.stottarchitecture.com Office 631-283-1777 Cell 516-965-3164 > On Jun 2, 2020, at 12:04 PM, Christopher Greco wrote: > > Ps ...I'm in Ridge, just west of Wm Floyd Pkwy, n of 25 > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Jun 2, 2020, at 9:46 AM, Lowe, Rob wrote: >> >> ?Ric, >> What the hell? The whole wood block gave way and took your motor with it? So not the entire lift but just the block attached to it? I think you win the prize for something, but not sure what that would be. Which lift do you have? - rob >> >> ________________________________ >> From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of Steelbone >> Sent: Tuesday, June 2, 2020 8:58 AM >> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org >> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Motor Mount >> >> Launch Day always brings a surprise that you never expect. This one is was >> especially shocking. >> Departing the launch ramp, happy that the mast raising and launch went >> smoothly, I untied and left the ramp under power. The wind on the nose and >> strong ebb tide current astern, a bridge to one side that I don't fit under >> for the first 100 yards and rocks on the right. I told my one experienced >> crew that all systems were go, but the conditions were sketchy, so if >> something went wrong, it might be scrabble to fend off bridge pilings, rocks >> or other boats. >> Less than a boat length out of the slip, I increased the power a little bit >> and the wood block of the motor mount broke off and the motor was gone. >> There was no indication of any rot visible when I repainted the block the >> day prior to launch. Normally I tie an outboard onto something so that if >> somehow it parts with the boat you don't need scuba gear to find it. I've >> learned this lesson a few times in my life, but in this case, I was secure >> in knowing that if the motor parted company with the boat, the motor mount >> lines would keep it attached. I didn't even connect the batter cables >> because the motor had started so easily with one pull, I figured I would do >> that later, when I had time. >> >> I asked a couple of recreation divers who were on site to look for it. They >> were happy to help but inexperienced and were afraid of the currents and >> murky water at the launch site. They tired and failed to find it. I went >> back the next morning at slack low tide and could see the Yamaha logo in >> about 5 feet of water - jumped in and hauled it to shallow water next to >> the floating dock and got help to haul it out. >> >> >> I never thought the lift system was very good and I wanted one that would >> lift the motor all the way up without having to tilt it as well. I know the >> lift systems have changed over the years and I don't really like the >> electric lifts I have seen. I want a longer throw manual lift. >> Stan - Can you send a replacement right away? >> If not, can anyone recommend an alternative mount - Garlick or something? >> I'm pickling the motor and hopefully it will recover from the dousing, but I >> need a new mount asap - any ideas? >> Ric >> Dadventure >> Hampton Bays >> >> >> >> -- >> Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From rlowe at vt.edu Tue Jun 2 12:25:43 2020 From: rlowe at vt.edu (Lowe, Rob) Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2020 16:25:43 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Motor Mount In-Reply-To: <03FD3E2B-C823-4E42-8483-33FB5A89E980@stottarchitecture.com> References: , <03FD3E2B-C823-4E42-8483-33FB5A89E980@stottarchitecture.com> Message-ID: Ric, I certainly wouldn't use wood. Maybe some starboard or a piece of aluminum plate. And I really am surprised you got your motor back. If i lost mine at my slip it would be 20 feet down. - rob ________________________________ From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of Richard Stott Sent: Tuesday, June 2, 2020 12:13 PM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Motor Mount Thanks Rob I could of course, for cheap, I could replace the wood mounting block, but I?m looking for a better system. Chris Greco has already offered a free alternative replacement and I?ll call him about it. What a great group of people! Thanks again. Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP www.stottarchitecture.com Office 631-283-1777 Cell 516-965-3164 > On Jun 2, 2020, at 12:04 PM, Christopher Greco wrote: > > Ps ...I'm in Ridge, just west of Wm Floyd Pkwy, n of 25 > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Jun 2, 2020, at 9:46 AM, Lowe, Rob wrote: >> >> ?Ric, >> What the hell? The whole wood block gave way and took your motor with it? So not the entire lift but just the block attached to it? I think you win the prize for something, but not sure what that would be. Which lift do you have? - rob >> >> ________________________________ >> From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of Steelbone >> Sent: Tuesday, June 2, 2020 8:58 AM >> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org >> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Motor Mount >> >> Launch Day always brings a surprise that you never expect. This one is was >> especially shocking. >> Departing the launch ramp, happy that the mast raising and launch went >> smoothly, I untied and left the ramp under power. The wind on the nose and >> strong ebb tide current astern, a bridge to one side that I don't fit under >> for the first 100 yards and rocks on the right. I told my one experienced >> crew that all systems were go, but the conditions were sketchy, so if >> something went wrong, it might be scrabble to fend off bridge pilings, rocks >> or other boats. >> Less than a boat length out of the slip, I increased the power a little bit >> and the wood block of the motor mount broke off and the motor was gone. >> There was no indication of any rot visible when I repainted the block the >> day prior to launch. Normally I tie an outboard onto something so that if >> somehow it parts with the boat you don't need scuba gear to find it. I've >> learned this lesson a few times in my life, but in this case, I was secure >> in knowing that if the motor parted company with the boat, the motor mount >> lines would keep it attached. I didn't even connect the batter cables >> because the motor had started so easily with one pull, I figured I would do >> that later, when I had time. >> >> I asked a couple of recreation divers who were on site to look for it. They >> were happy to help but inexperienced and were afraid of the currents and >> murky water at the launch site. They tired and failed to find it. I went >> back the next morning at slack low tide and could see the Yamaha logo in >> about 5 feet of water - jumped in and hauled it to shallow water next to >> the floating dock and got help to haul it out. >> >> >> I never thought the lift system was very good and I wanted one that would >> lift the motor all the way up without having to tilt it as well. I know the >> lift systems have changed over the years and I don't really like the >> electric lifts I have seen. I want a longer throw manual lift. >> Stan - Can you send a replacement right away? >> If not, can anyone recommend an alternative mount - Garlick or something? >> I'm pickling the motor and hopefully it will recover from the dousing, but I >> need a new mount asap - any ideas? >> Ric >> Dadventure >> Hampton Bays >> >> >> >> -- >> Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From ric at stottarchitecture.com Tue Jun 2 12:35:49 2020 From: ric at stottarchitecture.com (Richard Stott) Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2020 12:35:49 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Motor Mount In-Reply-To: References: <03FD3E2B-C823-4E42-8483-33FB5A89E980@stottarchitecture.com> Message-ID: <5E4905C0-5E49-415F-A5DE-A903A6E377D2@stottarchitecture.com> I?ve been thinking about replacing the ?U? channels with longer ones - extending over the combing to a horizontal that carries the triple turning block and cam cleat. I might have seen something like this from Da List in the past and there might be one of those just waiting for me to purchase somewhere. And - I might try Chris?s offer temporarily until I can find or invent/engineer a better mouse trap er motor mount. Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP www.stottarchitecture.com Office 631-283-1777 Cell 516-965-3164 > On Jun 2, 2020, at 12:25 PM, Lowe, Rob wrote: > > Ric, > I certainly wouldn't use wood. Maybe some starboard or a piece of aluminum plate. And I really am surprised you got your motor back. If i lost mine at my slip it would be 20 feet down. - rob > > ________________________________ > From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of Richard Stott > Sent: Tuesday, June 2, 2020 12:13 PM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Motor Mount > > Thanks Rob > I could of course, for cheap, I could replace the wood mounting block, but I?m looking for a better system. > Chris Greco has already offered a free alternative replacement and I?ll call him about it. > What a great group of people! > Thanks again. > > > Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP > www.stottarchitecture.com > Office 631-283-1777 > Cell 516-965-3164 > > > > > >> On Jun 2, 2020, at 12:04 PM, Christopher Greco wrote: >> >> Ps ...I'm in Ridge, just west of Wm Floyd Pkwy, n of 25 >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >>> On Jun 2, 2020, at 9:46 AM, Lowe, Rob wrote: >>> >>> ?Ric, >>> What the hell? The whole wood block gave way and took your motor with it? So not the entire lift but just the block attached to it? I think you win the prize for something, but not sure what that would be. Which lift do you have? - rob >>> >>> ________________________________ >>> From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of Steelbone >>> Sent: Tuesday, June 2, 2020 8:58 AM >>> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org >>> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Motor Mount >>> >>> Launch Day always brings a surprise that you never expect. This one is was >>> especially shocking. >>> Departing the launch ramp, happy that the mast raising and launch went >>> smoothly, I untied and left the ramp under power. The wind on the nose and >>> strong ebb tide current astern, a bridge to one side that I don't fit under >>> for the first 100 yards and rocks on the right. I told my one experienced >>> crew that all systems were go, but the conditions were sketchy, so if >>> something went wrong, it might be scrabble to fend off bridge pilings, rocks >>> or other boats. >>> Less than a boat length out of the slip, I increased the power a little bit >>> and the wood block of the motor mount broke off and the motor was gone. >>> There was no indication of any rot visible when I repainted the block the >>> day prior to launch. Normally I tie an outboard onto something so that if >>> somehow it parts with the boat you don't need scuba gear to find it. I've >>> learned this lesson a few times in my life, but in this case, I was secure >>> in knowing that if the motor parted company with the boat, the motor mount >>> lines would keep it attached. I didn't even connect the batter cables >>> because the motor had started so easily with one pull, I figured I would do >>> that later, when I had time. >>> >>> I asked a couple of recreation divers who were on site to look for it. They >>> were happy to help but inexperienced and were afraid of the currents and >>> murky water at the launch site. They tired and failed to find it. I went >>> back the next morning at slack low tide and could see the Yamaha logo in >>> about 5 feet of water - jumped in and hauled it to shallow water next to >>> the floating dock and got help to haul it out. >>> >>> >>> I never thought the lift system was very good and I wanted one that would >>> lift the motor all the way up without having to tilt it as well. I know the >>> lift systems have changed over the years and I don't really like the >>> electric lifts I have seen. I want a longer throw manual lift. >>> Stan - Can you send a replacement right away? >>> If not, can anyone recommend an alternative mount - Garlick or something? >>> I'm pickling the motor and hopefully it will recover from the dousing, but I >>> need a new mount asap - any ideas? >>> Ric >>> Dadventure >>> Hampton Bays >>> >>> >>> >>> -- >>> Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > From jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com Tue Jun 2 12:42:48 2020 From: jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com (Jesse Shumaker) Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2020 09:42:48 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Motor Mount In-Reply-To: <03FD3E2B-C823-4E42-8483-33FB5A89E980@stottarchitecture.com> References: <1591102736784-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <03FD3E2B-C823-4E42-8483-33FB5A89E980@stottarchitecture.com> Message-ID: <1591116168962-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Ric, I'm sorry to hear about the misadventure on Dadventure. It sounds like it was a dicey situation but I'm glad it didn't turn out any worse. Regarding the motor mount, it appears the GB motor mount that came on my boat is not made out of wood. It appears to be some sort of hard plastic. Here's a photo: Mine uses the ATV which for raising and lowering. I documented the project to replace that winch in a prior post. Here's the link in case you go down that route. http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/Replacement-of-winch-for-motor-lift-td56157.html To post pictures on the list, you could try going to the website ( http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com ) and posting there instead since you can upload each photo and choose size (small, medium, large). I assume that you're attaching the photos via email currently. Posting through the website allows for some additional control and formatting. Good luck with the motor and mount. I'm curious to know what work is required to make an outboard function again after it goes for a swim. Jesse S/V Zephyr -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From sloopblueheron at gmail.com Tue Jun 2 13:15:52 2020 From: sloopblueheron at gmail.com (Rick Lange) Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2020 13:15:52 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Motor Mount In-Reply-To: References: <1591102736784-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <6D17479D-C715-4351-8438-B7C0FF1DFF4C@stottarchitecture.com> <548086BD-F675-4285-87ED-CEEF3FF561D8@stottarchitecture.com> Message-ID: The lesson here is always tie the motor to the port transom u-bolt with a security cable. Doing that has kept my motor off the lake bottom a couple of times due to collisions. Regards, Rick Lange On Tue, Jun 2, 2020 at 12:06 PM Lowe, Rob wrote: > Ok, that worked. Here are the rest. - rob > > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: IMG_3900.png > Type: image/png > Size: 151727 bytes > Desc: IMG_3900.png > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200602/814fafb6/attachment.png > > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: IMG_3922.png > Type: image/png > Size: 138413 bytes > Desc: IMG_3922.png > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200602/ed3cb697/attachment.png > > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: IMG_3923.png > Type: image/png > Size: 161138 bytes > Desc: IMG_3923.png > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200602/ed3cb697/attachment-0001.png > > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: IMG_3902.png > Type: image/png > Size: 147678 bytes > Desc: IMG_3902.png > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200602/ed3cb697/attachment-0002.png > > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: IMG_3926.png > Type: image/png > Size: 210406 bytes > Desc: IMG_3926.png > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200602/ed3cb697/attachment-0003.png > > > From mike at traildesign.com Tue Jun 2 13:39:19 2020 From: mike at traildesign.com (Mike Riter) Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2020 13:39:19 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Sail batten Message-ID: While sailing on the lake last fall I somehow lost the vertical batten for my Doyle sail. Does anyone have the dimensions of the original so I can source a new one.? The batten that came with the boat was a 1/4 round rod but the slot looks like it will accommodate somewhere around a 1" flat bar. I suspect the rod was not original and was always trying to slip past the velcro strap. Michael Riter SV Emma B From peter at sunnybeeches.com Tue Jun 2 13:39:58 2020 From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg) Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2020 13:39:58 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] The Problem with Nabble... In-Reply-To: <1591116168962-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1591102736784-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <03FD3E2B-C823-4E42-8483-33FB5A89E980@stottarchitecture.com> <1591116168962-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: I?ll have to admit that I?m not quite sure what nabble is, but it is something entirely apart from the email list that Mike administers for us. The problem with using nabble to post messages to the list with attachments is that the attachments stay in nabble-land, and nabble inserts links to them in the messages that get passed on to the list server. The problem with that is attachments are outside of our control, and nabble has screwed things up in the past. If you spend enough time in the list archives (http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/), you will come across messages with broken links to attachments that are supposed to be somewhere on nabble, but apparently aren?t. If you use an email client app to send a message with attachments to the list, the attachments stay on our server (when the process works). There is a known issue when sending attachments using the native Mac email client. The attachments just disappear. It has something to do with how the Mac software formats the message. There is no work-around that I?m aware of, other than using a different email client. I?m not sure if this applies to messages sent from iPhone/iPad as well. Peter Nyberg Coventry, CT s/v Silverheels (1988/2016) > On Jun 2, 2020, at 12:42 PM, Jesse Shumaker wrote: > > Ric, I'm sorry to hear about the misadventure on Dadventure. It sounds like > it was a dicey situation but I'm glad it didn't turn out any worse. > > Regarding the motor mount, it appears the GB motor mount that came on my > boat is not made out of wood. It appears to be some sort of hard plastic. > Here's a photo: > > > Mine uses the ATV which for raising and lowering. I documented the project > to replace that winch in a prior post. Here's the link in case you go down > that route. > http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/Replacement-of-winch-for-motor-lift-td56157.html > > > To post pictures on the list, you could try going to the website ( > http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com > ) and posting there instead since > you can upload each photo and choose size (small, medium, large). I assume > that you're attaching the photos via email currently. Posting through the > website allows for some additional control and formatting. > > Good luck with the motor and mount. I'm curious to know what work is > required to make an outboard function again after it goes for a swim. > > Jesse > S/V Zephyr > > > > > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From rlowe at vt.edu Tue Jun 2 13:48:57 2020 From: rlowe at vt.edu (Lowe, Rob) Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2020 17:48:57 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Sail batten In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I just got a new main from Doyle. The batten that came with it is a 1/2" diameter fiberglass round rod that is 50" long and has rubber caps on each end (I just measured it). Do others have a rod or a flat bar? - rob ________________________________ From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of Mike Riter Sent: Tuesday, June 2, 2020 1:39 PM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Sail batten While sailing on the lake last fall I somehow lost the vertical batten for my Doyle sail. Does anyone have the dimensions of the original so I can source a new one.? The batten that came with the boat was a 1/4 round rod but the slot looks like it will accommodate somewhere around a 1" flat bar. I suspect the rod was not original and was always trying to slip past the velcro strap. Michael Riter SV Emma B From mike at traildesign.com Tue Jun 2 14:01:14 2020 From: mike at traildesign.com (Mike Riter) Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2020 14:01:14 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Sail batten In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Thanks for replying Rob and thanks for the measurements. Can you tell if the rod is solid or hollow inside? Michael Riter President, Trail Design Specialists, Inc. Lead Instructor, Trail Master and mechanized training mike at traildesign.com 678-410-8021 On Tue, Jun 2, 2020 at 1:49 PM Lowe, Rob wrote: > I just got a new main from Doyle. The batten that came with it is a 1/2" > diameter fiberglass round rod that is 50" long and has rubber caps on each > end (I just measured it). Do others have a rod or a flat bar? - rob > > ________________________________ > From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of > Mike Riter > Sent: Tuesday, June 2, 2020 1:39 PM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Sail batten > > While sailing on the lake last fall I somehow lost the vertical batten for > my Doyle sail. Does anyone have the dimensions of the original so I can > source a new one.? The batten that came with the boat was a 1/4 round rod > but the slot looks like it will accommodate somewhere around a 1" flat bar. > I suspect the rod was not original and was always trying to slip past the > velcro strap. > > Michael Riter > SV Emma B > From retiredtoby at gmail.com Tue Jun 2 14:09:10 2020 From: retiredtoby at gmail.com (Cary Tolbert) Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2020 14:09:10 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Sail batten In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Rob, the sail that came with my boat was a flat bar style and fit snugly in the pocket in the sail. I bought a replacement sail from Stan and it came WITHOUT a batten. I reused the batten from the old sail and it fit perfect.in the intended pocket. The 50 inch length sounds about right. Going from memory the bar is about 1/2 inch thick and approximately 2 inch in width and also appeared to be of fiberglass material. Since the flat bar fit so exactly to the sail I would assume it is the intended OME. Cary Radford, VA On Tue, Jun 2, 2020 at 1:49 PM Lowe, Rob wrote: > I just got a new main from Doyle. The batten that came with it is a 1/2" > diameter fiberglass round rod that is 50" long and has rubber caps on each > end (I just measured it). Do others have a rod or a flat bar? - rob > > ________________________________ > From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of > Mike Riter > Sent: Tuesday, June 2, 2020 1:39 PM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Sail batten > > While sailing on the lake last fall I somehow lost the vertical batten for > my Doyle sail. Does anyone have the dimensions of the original so I can > source a new one.? The batten that came with the boat was a 1/4 round rod > but the slot looks like it will accommodate somewhere around a 1" flat bar. > I suspect the rod was not original and was always trying to slip past the > velcro strap. > > Michael Riter > SV Emma B > From rlowe at vt.edu Tue Jun 2 14:13:00 2020 From: rlowe at vt.edu (Lowe, Rob) Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2020 18:13:00 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Sail batten In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: Mike, Mine is solid. It kinds of reminds me of section of pin they use to mark holes on golf courses. ________________________________ From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of Mike Riter Sent: Tuesday, June 2, 2020 2:01 PM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Sail batten Thanks for replying Rob and thanks for the measurements. Can you tell if the rod is solid or hollow inside? Michael Riter President, Trail Design Specialists, Inc. Lead Instructor, Trail Master and mechanized training mike at traildesign.com 678-410-8021 On Tue, Jun 2, 2020 at 1:49 PM Lowe, Rob wrote: > I just got a new main from Doyle. The batten that came with it is a 1/2" > diameter fiberglass round rod that is 50" long and has rubber caps on each > end (I just measured it). Do others have a rod or a flat bar? - rob > > ________________________________ > From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of > Mike Riter > Sent: Tuesday, June 2, 2020 1:39 PM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Sail batten > > While sailing on the lake last fall I somehow lost the vertical batten for > my Doyle sail. Does anyone have the dimensions of the original so I can > source a new one.? The batten that came with the boat was a 1/4 round rod > but the slot looks like it will accommodate somewhere around a 1" flat bar. > I suspect the rod was not original and was always trying to slip past the > velcro strap. > > Michael Riter > SV Emma B > From rlowe at vt.edu Tue Jun 2 14:16:20 2020 From: rlowe at vt.edu (Lowe, Rob) Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2020 18:16:20 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Sail batten In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: Cary, I thought yours was a bar style. Wonder if one is better than the other. I expect the rod style is easier to find. - rob ________________________________ From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of Cary Tolbert Sent: Tuesday, June 2, 2020 2:09 PM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Sail batten Rob, the sail that came with my boat was a flat bar style and fit snugly in the pocket in the sail. I bought a replacement sail from Stan and it came WITHOUT a batten. I reused the batten from the old sail and it fit perfect.in the intended pocket. The 50 inch length sounds about right. Going from memory the bar is about 1/2 inch thick and approximately 2 inch in width and also appeared to be of fiberglass material. Since the flat bar fit so exactly to the sail I would assume it is the intended OME. Cary Radford, VA On Tue, Jun 2, 2020 at 1:49 PM Lowe, Rob wrote: > I just got a new main from Doyle. The batten that came with it is a 1/2" > diameter fiberglass round rod that is 50" long and has rubber caps on each > end (I just measured it). Do others have a rod or a flat bar? - rob > > ________________________________ > From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of > Mike Riter > Sent: Tuesday, June 2, 2020 1:39 PM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Sail batten > > While sailing on the lake last fall I somehow lost the vertical batten for > my Doyle sail. Does anyone have the dimensions of the original so I can > source a new one.? The batten that came with the boat was a 1/4 round rod > but the slot looks like it will accommodate somewhere around a 1" flat bar. > I suspect the rod was not original and was always trying to slip past the > velcro strap. > > Michael Riter > SV Emma B > From mike at traildesign.com Tue Jun 2 16:02:26 2020 From: mike at traildesign.com (Mike Riter) Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2020 16:02:26 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Sail batten In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Thanks for the replies Rob and Cary. All good info. Michael Riter SV Emma B On Tue, Jun 2, 2020 at 2:16 PM Lowe, Rob wrote: > Cary, > I thought yours was a bar style. Wonder if one is better than the other. > I expect the rod style is easier to find. - rob > > ________________________________ > From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of > Cary Tolbert > Sent: Tuesday, June 2, 2020 2:09 PM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Sail batten > > Rob, the sail that came with my boat was a flat bar style and fit snugly in > the pocket in the sail. I bought a replacement sail from Stan > and it came WITHOUT a batten. I reused the batten from the old sail and it > fit perfect.in the intended pocket. The 50 inch length sounds about right. > Going from memory the bar is about 1/2 inch thick and approximately 2 inch > in width and also appeared to be of fiberglass material. Since the flat bar > fit so exactly to the sail > I would assume it is the intended OME. > Cary > Radford, VA > > On Tue, Jun 2, 2020 at 1:49 PM Lowe, Rob wrote: > > > I just got a new main from Doyle. The batten that came with it is a 1/2" > > diameter fiberglass round rod that is 50" long and has rubber caps on > each > > end (I just measured it). Do others have a rod or a flat bar? - rob > > > > ________________________________ > > From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of > > Mike Riter > > Sent: Tuesday, June 2, 2020 1:39 PM > > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > > Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Sail batten > > > > While sailing on the lake last fall I somehow lost the vertical batten > for > > my Doyle sail. Does anyone have the dimensions of the original so I can > > source a new one.? The batten that came with the boat was a 1/4 round rod > > but the slot looks like it will accommodate somewhere around a 1" flat > bar. > > I suspect the rod was not original and was always trying to slip past the > > velcro strap. > > > > Michael Riter > > SV Emma B > > > From mweisner at ebsmed.com Tue Jun 2 16:53:09 2020 From: mweisner at ebsmed.com (Michael D. Weisner) Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2020 16:53:09 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Sail batten In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <002e01d6391f$d377edf0$7a67c9d0$@ebsmed.com> Mike, Defender is currently running a sale on batten materials. Check out the components at:: https://www.defender.com/search.html?q=Sai085A You can cut the poly fiberglass to exact length. Don't forget to order the end caps. Cost should be about $20. To prevent the battens from shooting out of the pocket (there should be an elastic tensioner in the inside end of the pocket), sew a portion of the pocket opening closed so that you can just insert the batten and then push it into the closed part. This secures the batten much more than just the velcro faster. Mike s/v Wind Lass ('91) Nissequogue River, NY I?d rather be sailing :~) -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of Mike Riter Sent: Tuesday, June 2, 2020 1:39 PM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Sail batten While sailing on the lake last fall I somehow lost the vertical batten for my Doyle sail. Does anyone have the dimensions of the original so I can source a new one.? The batten that came with the boat was a 1/4 round rod but the slot looks like it will accommodate somewhere around a 1" flat bar. I suspect the rod was not original and was always trying to slip past the velcro strap. Michael Riter SV Emma B From mike at traildesign.com Tue Jun 2 17:33:24 2020 From: mike at traildesign.com (Mike Riter) Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2020 17:33:24 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Sail batten In-Reply-To: <002e01d6391f$d377edf0$7a67c9d0$@ebsmed.com> References: <002e01d6391f$d377edf0$7a67c9d0$@ebsmed.com> Message-ID: That's perfect Mike. Thanks! Well, I just checked it out at defender and the shipping for the batten is more than the $25 min. order. I'll see if I can find it locally. Michael Riter SV Emma B On Tue, Jun 2, 2020 at 4:53 PM Michael D. Weisner wrote: > Mike, > > Defender is currently running a sale on batten materials. Check out the > components at:: > https://www.defender.com/search.html?q=Sai085A > > You can cut the poly fiberglass to exact length. Don't forget to order > the end caps. > Cost should be about $20. > > To prevent the battens from shooting out of the pocket (there should be an > elastic tensioner in the inside end of the pocket), sew a portion of the > pocket opening closed so that you can just insert the batten and then push > it into the closed part. This secures the batten much more than just the > velcro faster. > > Mike > s/v Wind Lass ('91) > Nissequogue River, NY > I?d rather be sailing :~) > > -----Original Message----- > From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of > Mike Riter > Sent: Tuesday, June 2, 2020 1:39 PM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Sail batten > > While sailing on the lake last fall I somehow lost the vertical batten for > my Doyle sail. Does anyone have the dimensions of the original so I can > source a new one.? The batten that came with the boat was a 1/4 round rod > but the slot looks like it will accommodate somewhere around a 1" flat bar. > I suspect the rod was not original and was always trying to slip past the > velcro strap. > > Michael Riter > SV Emma B > > From mweisner at ebsmed.com Tue Jun 2 17:40:23 2020 From: mweisner at ebsmed.com (Michael D. Weisner) Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2020 17:40:23 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Motor Mount In-Reply-To: <5E4905C0-5E49-415F-A5DE-A903A6E377D2@stottarchitecture.com> References: <03FD3E2B-C823-4E42-8483-33FB5A89E980@stottarchitecture.com> <5E4905C0-5E49-415F-A5DE-A903A6E377D2@stottarchitecture.com> Message-ID: <003c01d63926$6c8e8bb0$45aba310$@ebsmed.com> Ric, I'm not sure what you are looking to build in the way of a motor mount. I searched the archives and found a photo of an GB design on Roger's Rhodes from a 2019 post at: http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20190526/bf33e9c5/attachment.jpg and http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20190526/97a8a159/attachment.jpeg Maybe Stan can ship you one. Way back in 2007, Jay Bulfer nearly lost his motor while trying to beat out a storm. s/v Just Bent's engine mount had failed. He provided the attached drawing and reconstructed the mount using stainless steel (he is a metal fabricator at jbtek.com). My GB motor mount looks a lot like yours with the exception of the wood (see photos added at the end of the message). Mike s/v Wind Lass ('91) Nissequogue River, NY I?d rather be sailing :~) -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: MotorMounting.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2303172 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: MotorMountPortSide.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1833453 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: JB's Motor Mount CCF06112007_00000.pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 775013 bytes Desc: not available URL: From mweisner at ebsmed.com Tue Jun 2 17:54:52 2020 From: mweisner at ebsmed.com (Michael D. Weisner) Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2020 17:54:52 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] The Problem with Nabble... In-Reply-To: References: <1591102736784-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <03FD3E2B-C823-4E42-8483-33FB5A89E980@stottarchitecture.com> <1591116168962-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <004001d63928$7260f440$5722dcc0$@ebsmed.com> Once again, I would like to say "Thank you Peter" for moderating da list. I try very hard to get the point across that nabble.com is not responsible for maintaining da list content. I could not believe how many images were lost when they transitioned to their "new" format. This is why I ask that everyone post to the mail list server, not to nabble.com. As far as Mac or iPhone issues with images are concerned, I have looked into their use of html to embed the image data. Our mailman list server is showing its age as it tosses the html content. Many lists still remove html to prevent virus transmission. If we have a cybersecurity Rhodie, on the list please come forward if you want to research the issue. Last month I spoke about revamping our website to make it more useful. One of the top priorities might be to rescue the nabble.com posted image content and store it on our server before we lose it, again. Mike s/v Wind Lass ('91) Nissequogue River, NY I?d rather be sailing :~) -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of Peter Nyberg Sent: Tuesday, June 2, 2020 1:40 PM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: [Rhodes22-list] The Problem with Nabble... I?ll have to admit that I?m not quite sure what nabble is, but it is something entirely apart from the email list that Mike administers for us. The problem with using nabble to post messages to the list with attachments is that the attachments stay in nabble-land, and nabble inserts links to them in the messages that get passed on to the list server. The problem with that is attachments are outside of our control, and nabble has screwed things up in the past. If you spend enough time in the list archives (http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/), you will come across messages with broken links to attachments that are supposed to be somewhere on nabble, but apparently aren?t. If you use an email client app to send a message with attachments to the list, the attachments stay on our server (when the process works). There is a known issue when sending attachments using the native Mac email client. The attachments just disappear. It has something to do with how the Mac software formats the message. There is no work-around that I?m aware of, other than using a different email client. I?m not sure if this applies to messages sent from iPhone/iPad as well. Peter Nyberg Coventry, CT s/v Silverheels (1988/2016) > On Jun 2, 2020, at 12:42 PM, Jesse Shumaker wrote: > > Ric, I'm sorry to hear about the misadventure on Dadventure. It > sounds like it was a dicey situation but I'm glad it didn't turn out any worse. > > Regarding the motor mount, it appears the GB motor mount that came on > my boat is not made out of wood. It appears to be some sort of hard plastic. > Here's a photo: > > > Mine uses the ATV which for raising and lowering. I documented the > project to replace that winch in a prior post. Here's the link in > case you go down that route. > http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/Replacement-of-winch-for-motor- > lift-td56157.html > -lift-td56157.html> > > To post pictures on the list, you could try going to the website ( > http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com > ) and posting there instead > since you can upload each photo and choose size (small, medium, > large). I assume that you're attaching the photos via email > currently. Posting through the website allows for some additional control and formatting. > > Good luck with the motor and mount. I'm curious to know what work is > required to make an outboard function again after it goes for a swim. > > Jesse > S/V Zephyr > > > > > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From ric at stottarchitecture.com Tue Jun 2 18:01:12 2020 From: ric at stottarchitecture.com (Richard Stott) Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2020 18:01:12 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Motor Mount In-Reply-To: <003c01d63926$6c8e8bb0$45aba310$@ebsmed.com> References: <03FD3E2B-C823-4E42-8483-33FB5A89E980@stottarchitecture.com> <5E4905C0-5E49-415F-A5DE-A903A6E377D2@stottarchitecture.com> <003c01d63926$6c8e8bb0$45aba310$@ebsmed.com> Message-ID: <85FEE3FA-D475-484C-9E2C-6CFE9B40055A@stottarchitecture.com> Hey Mike Thanks for the research and the drawings. The lift on Dynamic Equilibrium is what I have seen and remembered. I have tried to buy this from Stan, but he told me I?d have to bring the boat to Edmonton to have it installed. Not sure why. It looks robust and permanent, but it also looks overly large and cumbersome for operating the motor with the tiller. I?m thinking that this West marinate bracket will do the trick. It has a 16? vertical trail which allows the motor to lift all the way above the waterline without tilting it and all the gear moves with the motor so there is nothing in the way of steering or reaching controls. Has anyone chosen this ?dark side?? Any reports on after market /non-GB mounts? Thanks Ric Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP www.stottarchitecture.com Office 631-283-1777 Cell 516-965-3164 > On Jun 2, 2020, at 5:40 PM, Michael D. Weisner wrote: > > Ric, > > I'm not sure what you are looking to build in the way of a motor mount. > > I searched the archives and found a photo of an GB design on Roger's Rhodes from a 2019 post at: > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20190526/bf33e9c5/attachment.jpg > and > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20190526/97a8a159/attachment.jpeg > Maybe Stan can ship you one. > > Way back in 2007, Jay Bulfer nearly lost his motor while trying to beat out a storm. s/v Just Bent's engine mount had failed. He provided the attached drawing and reconstructed the mount using stainless steel (he is a metal fabricator at jbtek.com). > > My GB motor mount looks a lot like yours with the exception of the wood (see photos added at the end of the message). > > Mike > s/v Wind Lass ('91) > Nissequogue River, NY > I?d rather be sailing :~) > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: MotorMounting.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 2303172 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: MotorMountPortSide.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 1833453 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: JB's Motor Mount CCF06112007_00000.pdf > Type: application/pdf > Size: 775013 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: From jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com Tue Jun 2 21:23:23 2020 From: jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com (Jesse Shumaker) Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2020 18:23:23 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] The Problem with Nabble... In-Reply-To: <004001d63928$7260f440$5722dcc0$@ebsmed.com> References: <1591102736784-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <03FD3E2B-C823-4E42-8483-33FB5A89E980@stottarchitecture.com> <1591116168962-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <004001d63928$7260f440$5722dcc0$@ebsmed.com> Message-ID: <1591147403425-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Thanks to Mike and Peter for the explanation. I didn't realize the distinction and assumed the email list and website was hosted/administered together. If I understand correctly, the recommendation is to post via email (at least when attachments are involved) and just use nabble to search the archives. Please correct me if I misunderstood. Thanks, Jesse S/V Zephyr -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com Tue Jun 2 22:49:02 2020 From: chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com (Chris Geankoplis) Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2020 21:49:02 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Motor Mount In-Reply-To: <009701d638f6$3a85b600$af912200$@ebsmed.com> References: <1591102736784-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <009701d638f6$3a85b600$af912200$@ebsmed.com> Message-ID: That was a long time ago. Now nothing surprises her. I?ll have to think of something outrageous, and soon. On Tue, 2 Jun 2020 at 10:55, Michael D. Weisner wrote: > Chris, > > Seriously? She was surprised? > > Mike > s/v Wind Lass ('91) > Nissequogue River, NY > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of > Chris Geankoplis > Sent: Tuesday, June 2, 2020 11:48 AM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Motor Mount > > So sorry to hear about your mishap. I suspect there a lot of outboards > littering the bottoms of lots of lakes, rivers and bays. Sometimes things > just fail without warning. Anyway I hope you find the right mount. I lost > a motor off Poplar Island in the Chesapeake and had to find it in the mud. > My wife was surprised to see an outboard in the bathtub that evening. > > Chris Geankoplis > Enosis > > > From roger_pihlaja at msn.com Wed Jun 3 07:15:14 2020 From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA) Date: Wed, 3 Jun 2020 11:15:14 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Motor Mount In-Reply-To: <85FEE3FA-D475-484C-9E2C-6CFE9B40055A@stottarchitecture.com> References: <03FD3E2B-C823-4E42-8483-33FB5A89E980@stottarchitecture.com> <5E4905C0-5E49-415F-A5DE-A903A6E377D2@stottarchitecture.com> <003c01d63926$6c8e8bb0$45aba310$@ebsmed.com>, <85FEE3FA-D475-484C-9E2C-6CFE9B40055A@stottarchitecture.com> Message-ID: Hi Ric, S/V Dynamic Equilibrium originally had a parallelogram linkage style motor mount. It worked OK. But, before you buy, consider two major disadvantages of this style motor mount. One, the parallelogram linkage has a number of heavily loaded pivot points. On my motor mount, these pivot points were made from some sort of riveted bushings. They had no provision for lubrication and so had a tendency to wear and get sloppy. The GBI motor mount has no such built-in wear points. This pivot wear was the primary reason I decided to replace my motor mount back in 2010. But, replace it with what? Which brings me to disadvantage #2. By design, the parallelogram linkage moves the motor out away from the transom as well as down. So what you may ask? Well, at least on S/V Dynamic Equilibrium, this outward movement ended up putting the motor?s lower unit right in the bottom of the trough of the stern wave. i.e. The stern wave?s trough caused the lower unit to be less submerged than it could have been if the lower unit were closer to the transom. This made the outboard more susceptible to cavitation in heavy weather. Note, that I also have an extra long shaft Honda outboard (25?) to help with this same issue. The GBI motor mount allows the lower unit to be as deep as possible and as close as possible to the transom as any motor mount on the market today. The GBI motor mount also allows the vertical position of the motor to be adjusted. i.e. You can adjust it to be very deep to prevent cavitation when motor sailing on port tack and then raise it up to prevent the motor?s upper unit from taking on water on starboard tack. In the picture of S/V Dynamic Equilibrium?s stern that you have been referencing, the motor mount is shown in the fully lowered position. Note how far below the waterline stripe the motor?s lower unit is. In heavy conditions, often the only way to make progress to windward is to motor sail. The combination of a GBI motor mount and an extra long shaft outboard, gives S/V Dynamic Equilibrium significantly more heavy weather capability vs. when it had the old parallelogram style motor mount. Another GBI motor mount advantage is the built-in 6:1 block and tackle, which makes raising and lowering the motor almost effortless. The GBI motor mount is a well engineered, well built piece of gear. Stan, you can send my sales commission to my home address! ? Roger Pihlaja S/V Dynamic Equilibrium Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Richard Stott Sent: Tuesday, June 2, 2020 6:01 PM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Motor Mount Hey Mike Thanks for the research and the drawings. The lift on Dynamic Equilibrium is what I have seen and remembered. I have tried to buy this from Stan, but he told me I?d have to bring the boat to Edmonton to have it installed. Not sure why. It looks robust and permanent, but it also looks overly large and cumbersome for operating the motor with the tiller. I?m thinking that this West marinate bracket will do the trick. It has a 16? vertical trail which allows the motor to lift all the way above the waterline without tilting it and all the gear moves with the motor so there is nothing in the way of steering or reaching controls. Has anyone chosen this ?dark side?? Any reports on after market /non-GB mounts? Thanks Ric Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP www.stottarchitecture.com Office 631-283-1777 Cell 516-965-3164 > On Jun 2, 2020, at 5:40 PM, Michael D. Weisner wrote: > > Ric, > > I'm not sure what you are looking to build in the way of a motor mount. > > I searched the archives and found a photo of an GB design on Roger's Rhodes from a 2019 post at: > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20190526/bf33e9c5/attachment.jpg > and > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20190526/97a8a159/attachment.jpeg > Maybe Stan can ship you one. > > Way back in 2007, Jay Bulfer nearly lost his motor while trying to beat out a storm. s/v Just Bent's engine mount had failed. He provided the attached drawing and reconstructed the mount using stainless steel (he is a metal fabricator at jbtek.com). > > My GB motor mount looks a lot like yours with the exception of the wood (see photos added at the end of the message). > > Mike > s/v Wind Lass ('91) > Nissequogue River, NY > I?d rather be sailing :~) > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: MotorMounting.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 2303172 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: MotorMountPortSide.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 1833453 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: JB's Motor Mount CCF06112007_00000.pdf > Type: application/pdf > Size: 775013 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: From peter at sunnybeeches.com Wed Jun 3 08:30:21 2020 From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg) Date: Wed, 3 Jun 2020 08:30:21 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] The Problem with Nabble... In-Reply-To: <1591147403425-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1591102736784-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <03FD3E2B-C823-4E42-8483-33FB5A89E980@stottarchitecture.com> <1591116168962-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <004001d63928$7260f440$5722dcc0$@ebsmed.com> <1591147403425-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <83795B52-2C1F-42BF-882F-22B952A0EC8D@sunnybeeches.com> Jesse, As far as I know, the only problem with using the nabble interface to post messages to the group has to do with how it handles attachments. There?s nothing wrong with using nabble to search the archives, but you should be aware that when you do, nabble is searching its archives, not our archives. I?m pretty sure that nabble's archives do not extend back to the founding of the group (July 2002). ?Peter > On Jun 2, 2020, at 9:23 PM, Jesse Shumaker wrote: > > Thanks to Mike and Peter for the explanation. I didn't realize the > distinction and assumed the email list and website was hosted/administered > together. If I understand correctly, the recommendation is to post via > email (at least when attachments are involved) and just use nabble to search > the archives. Please correct me if I misunderstood. Thanks, > > Jesse > S/V Zephyr > > > > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From ric at stottarchitecture.com Wed Jun 3 08:49:45 2020 From: ric at stottarchitecture.com (Richard Stott) Date: Wed, 3 Jun 2020 08:49:45 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] The Problem with Nabble... In-Reply-To: References: <1591102736784-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <03FD3E2B-C823-4E42-8483-33FB5A89E980@stottarchitecture.com> <1591116168962-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <5DDCC7A8-D265-478E-97E7-E593E4FE3A6D@stottarchitecture.com> As much as I love Stan, his learned whit and humor and his dedication to his craft, I still can?t buy parts very easily. If GB had a part number and invoice, I would purchase today. Stan? In the meantime, I want to get my motor running and back on the boat. Westmarine has a sale on their Garelick high-end model with a 16? vertical movement, which is perfect to deal with all the issues Dynamic Equilibrium addresses regarding depth on both port and starboard tack. I can tell you that my old motor mount was not so good on a port tack, and I could not motor-sail with any heal on port, even with the mount all the way down. When I get my insurance company to call back I?ll know more about next steps. Ric Dadventure Hampton Bays '84 Continental Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP www.stottarchitecture.com Office 631-283-1777 Cell 516-965-3164 > On Jun 2, 2020, at 1:39 PM, Peter Nyberg wrote: > > I?ll have to admit that I?m not quite sure what nabble is, but it is something entirely apart from the email list that Mike administers for us. > > The problem with using nabble to post messages to the list with attachments is that the attachments stay in nabble-land, and nabble inserts links to them in the messages that get passed on to the list server. The problem with that is attachments are outside of our control, and nabble has screwed things up in the past. If you spend enough time in the list archives (http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/), you will come across messages with broken links to attachments that are supposed to be somewhere on nabble, but apparently aren?t. > > If you use an email client app to send a message with attachments to the list, the attachments stay on our server (when the process works). > > There is a known issue when sending attachments using the native Mac email client. The attachments just disappear. It has something to do with how the Mac software formats the message. There is no work-around that I?m aware of, other than using a different email client. I?m not sure if this applies to messages sent from iPhone/iPad as well. > > Peter Nyberg > Coventry, CT > s/v Silverheels (1988/2016) > >> On Jun 2, 2020, at 12:42 PM, Jesse Shumaker wrote: >> >> Ric, I'm sorry to hear about the misadventure on Dadventure. It sounds like >> it was a dicey situation but I'm glad it didn't turn out any worse. >> >> Regarding the motor mount, it appears the GB motor mount that came on my >> boat is not made out of wood. It appears to be some sort of hard plastic. >> Here's a photo: >> >> >> Mine uses the ATV which for raising and lowering. I documented the project >> to replace that winch in a prior post. Here's the link in case you go down >> that route. >> http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/Replacement-of-winch-for-motor-lift-td56157.html >> >> >> To post pictures on the list, you could try going to the website ( >> http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com >> ) and posting there instead since >> you can upload each photo and choose size (small, medium, large). I assume >> that you're attaching the photos via email currently. Posting through the >> website allows for some additional control and formatting. >> >> Good luck with the motor and mount. I'm curious to know what work is >> required to make an outboard function again after it goes for a swim. >> >> Jesse >> S/V Zephyr >> >> >> >> >> -- >> Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > From luis.guzman.ve at gmail.com Wed Jun 3 20:04:01 2020 From: luis.guzman.ve at gmail.com (luis.guzman.ve) Date: Wed, 03 Jun 2020 20:04:01 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] The Problem with Nabble... In-Reply-To: <004001d63928$7260f440$5722dcc0$@ebsmed.com> Message-ID: <5ed83a75.1c69fb81.ba3c6.24a9@mx.google.com> Mike,I'm a Software Engineer, owner of a Rhodes 22, and I would live to help in any way I can.?In order to do so, I would have to have access to the server and database.Please, let me know if I can help in any way.Regards,Luis Guzm?nS/V Aquetxali1984 Rhodes 22Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device -------- Original message --------From: "Michael D. Weisner" Date: 6/2/20 5:54 PM (GMT-05:00) To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] The Problem with Nabble... Once again, I would like to say "Thank you Peter" for moderating da list. I try very hard to get the point across that nabble.com is not responsible for maintaining da list content. I could not believe how many images were lost when they transitioned to their "new" format. This is why I ask that everyone post to the mail list server, not to nabble.com.As far as Mac or iPhone issues with images are concerned, I have looked into their use of html to embed the image data. Our mailman list server is showing its age as it tosses the html content. Many lists still remove html to prevent virus transmission. If we have a cybersecurity Rhodie, on the list please come forward if you want to research the issue.Last month I spoke about revamping our website to make it more useful. One of the top priorities might be to rescue the nabble.com posted image content and store it on our server before we lose it, again.Mikes/v Wind Lass ('91)Nissequogue River, NYI?d rather be sailing :~)-----Original Message-----From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of Peter NybergSent: Tuesday, June 2, 2020 1:40 PMTo: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: [Rhodes22-list] The Problem with Nabble...I?ll have to admit that I?m not quite sure what nabble is, but it is something entirely apart from the email list that Mike administers for us.The problem with using nabble to post messages to the list with attachments is that the attachments stay in nabble-land, and nabble inserts links to them in the messages that get passed on to the list server.??? The problem with that is attachments are outside of our control, and nabble has screwed things up in the past.? If you spend enough time in the list archives (http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/), you will come across messages with broken links to attachments that are supposed to be somewhere on nabble, but apparently aren?t.If you use an email client app to send a message with attachments to the list, the attachments stay on our server (when the process works).There is a known issue when sending attachments using the native Mac email client.? The attachments just disappear.? It has something to do with how the Mac software formats the message.? There is no work-around that I?m aware of, other than using a different email client.? I?m not sure if this applies to messages sent from iPhone/iPad as well.Peter NybergCoventry, CTs/v Silverheels (1988/2016)> On Jun 2, 2020, at 12:42 PM, Jesse Shumaker wrote:> > Ric, I'm sorry to hear about the misadventure on Dadventure.? It > sounds like it was a dicey situation but I'm glad it didn't turn out any worse.> > Regarding the motor mount, it appears the GB motor mount that came on > my boat is not made out of wood.? It appears to be some sort of hard plastic.> Here's a photo:> > > Mine uses the ATV which for raising and lowering.? I documented the > project to replace that winch in a prior post.? Here's the link in > case you go down that route.> http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/Replacement-of-winch-for-motor-> lift-td56157.html > -lift-td56157.html>> > To post pictures on the list, you could try going to the website ( > http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com> ? ) and posting there instead > since you can upload each photo and choose size (small, medium, > large).? I assume that you're attaching the photos via email > currently.? Posting through the website allows for some additional control and formatting.> > Good luck with the motor and mount.? I'm curious to know what work is > required to make an outboard function again after it goes for a swim.> > Jesse> S/V Zephyr> > > > > --> Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From trimsails at gmail.com Wed Jun 3 20:19:10 2020 From: trimsails at gmail.com (Jerry Thompson) Date: Wed, 3 Jun 2020 20:19:10 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] The Problem with Nabble... In-Reply-To: <5ed83a75.1c69fb81.ba3c6.24a9@mx.google.com> References: <004001d63928$7260f440$5722dcc0$@ebsmed.com> <5ed83a75.1c69fb81.ba3c6.24a9@mx.google.com> Message-ID: Yacht Scoring Luis? If it is, I can say unequivocally that Luis know what he is doing with a database. Jerry On Wed, Jun 3, 2020 at 8:04 PM luis.guzman.ve wrote: > Mike,I'm a Software Engineer, owner of a Rhodes 22, and I would live to > help in any way I can. In order to do so, I would have to have access to > the server and database.Please, let me know if I can help in any > way.Regards,Luis Guzm?nS/V Aquetxali1984 Rhodes 22Sent from my T-Mobile 4G > LTE Device > -------- Original message --------From: "Michael D. Weisner" < > mweisner at ebsmed.com> Date: 6/2/20 5:54 PM (GMT-05:00) To: 'The Rhodes > 22 Email List' Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] > The Problem with Nabble... Once again, I would like to say "Thank you > Peter" for moderating da list. I try very hard to get the point across that > nabble.com is not responsible for maintaining da list content. I could > not believe how many images were lost when they transitioned to their "new" > format. This is why I ask that everyone post to the mail list server, not > to nabble.com.As far as Mac or iPhone issues with images are concerned, I > have looked into their use of html to embed the image data. Our mailman > list server is showing its age as it tosses the html content. Many lists > still remove html to prevent virus transmission. If we have a cybersecurity > Rhodie, on the list please come forward if you want to research the > issue.Last month I spoke about revamping our website to make it more > useful. One of the top priorities might be to rescue the nabble.com > posted image content and store it on our server before we lose it, > again.Mikes/v Wind Lass ('91)Nissequogue River, NYI?d rather be sailing > :~)-----Original Message-----From: Rhodes22-list < > rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of Peter NybergSent: > Tuesday, June 2, 2020 1:40 PMTo: The Rhodes 22 Email List < > rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>Subject: [Rhodes22-list] The Problem with > Nabble...I?ll have to admit that I?m not quite sure what nabble is, but it > is something entirely apart from the email list that Mike administers for > us.The problem with using nabble to post messages to the list with > attachments is that the attachments stay in nabble-land, and nabble inserts > links to them in the messages that get passed on to the list server. The > problem with that is attachments are outside of our control, and nabble has > screwed things up in the past. If you spend enough time in the list > archives (http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/), you will come > across messages with broken links to attachments that are supposed to be > somewhere on nabble, but apparently aren?t.If you use an email client app > to send a message with attachments to the list, the attachments stay on our > server (when the process works).There is a known issue when sending > attachments using the native Mac email client. The attachments just > disappear. It has something to do with how the Mac software formats the > message. There is no work-around that I?m aware of, other than using a > different email client. I?m not sure if this applies to messages sent from > iPhone/iPad as well.Peter NybergCoventry, CTs/v Silverheels (1988/2016)> On > Jun 2, 2020, at 12:42 PM, Jesse Shumaker > wrote:> > Ric, I'm sorry to hear about the misadventure on Dadventure. It > > sounds like it was a dicey situation but I'm glad it didn't turn out any > worse.> > Regarding the motor mount, it appears the GB motor mount that > came on > my boat is not made out of wood. It appears to be some sort of > hard plastic.> Here's a photo:> < > http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/file/t907/MotorMount.jpg>> > Mine > uses the ATV which for raising and lowering. I documented the > project to > replace that winch in a prior post. Here's the link in > case you go down > that route.> > http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/Replacement-of-winch-for-motor-> > lift-td56157.html > < > http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/Replacement-of-winch-for-motor> > -lift-td56157.html>> > To post pictures on the list, you could try going to > the website ( > http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com> < > http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com> ) and posting there instead > > since you can upload each photo and choose size (small, medium, > large). > I assume that you're attaching the photos via email > currently. Posting > through the website allows for some additional control and formatting.> > > Good luck with the motor and mount. I'm curious to know what work is > > required to make an outboard function again after it goes for a swim.> > > Jesse> S/V Zephyr> > > > > --> Sent from: > http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From rhodes22dave at gmail.com Wed Jun 3 20:20:56 2020 From: rhodes22dave at gmail.com (David Keyes) Date: Wed, 3 Jun 2020 19:20:56 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Electric Motor In-Reply-To: <4B5421EF-2575-4F7E-8694-9D8B1EAA3AC8@gmail.com> References: <4B5421EF-2575-4F7E-8694-9D8B1EAA3AC8@gmail.com> Message-ID: <3438DD74-6878-41AB-878F-052847012DC9@gmail.com> Jose, I read that you are using the Torqeedo Cruise 4.0 R. I am thinking of getting the 2.0 R or 4.0 R, although the cost becomes somewhat staggering with the Torqeedo lithium batteries. Currently I am still using my 2001 Yamaha 9.9 with Stan?s remote linkage to the sailboat tiller, and with his newer electric lift. If I continue with the 9.9, I have to replace the cables (not easy, since Yamaha doesn?t list the cables that originally came with the 2001 setup. One of my hesitations with the Torqeedo arises from user posts on the internet about lack of service for repairs. Unless a replacement part can be shipped, apparently the whole motor has to be shipped back to Hong Kong. Aside from service and cost, the idea of electric instead of gas is appealing, and the Torqeedo motors seem very nifty. I would like to drop down to the smaller 2.0 (5 hp equivalent), since all we usually do is motor out of the marina and switch immediately to sail. But there have been a few times on Lake Travis near Austin, Texas (where my boat sits in the water 12 months a year?I have never owned a trailer), when the weather picks up fairly suddenly, and the 4.0 would produce almost as much power as my Yamaha 9.9. Now that you have been using your 4.0 for several years, are you still happy with your switch from the Yamaha 9.9? Are you using the Torqeedo Power 48-5000 battery that weighs about 80 pounds and costs about 5 grand? Arrggh. What kind of mount did you acquire or build for the battery? Does the Torqeedo remote cable and control unit install satisfactorily onto the sailboat tiller? I will appreciate your views and experience on this. I have a 2011 R22, and when I bought it new, I transferred my Yamaha 9.9 to it from my earlier 2001 R22. The motor still runs well?or will run again if I can replace the control cables?but is very temperamental when leaving and returning through the marina to my slip at the end closest to a limestone cliff. It gets pretty exciting with a trailing wind having to make a hard turn to port into the last slip, with larger boats than mine all around me and the Yamaha that, as usual, has decided at that point to quit. Once I am out in the lake with no obstacles around, it will run all day as if it never stalls or misses as long as it has gas. But of course that is when I am sailing instead of motoring, weather permitting. David Keyes > On Dec 30, 2019, at 6:23 PM, Jose Faraldo-Gomez wrote: > > Hello Charles > > We?ve had a Torqueedo Cruise 4.0R for a few years and in terms of power I can?t tell it apart from the (admittedly rather old) Yamaha T9.9 we had before. This particular Torqueedo motor is advertised as equivalent to 8 HP, so this seems accurate. If you get by with a Honda 5 HP, one of the Cruise 2.0 models (either with remote throttle or with tiller) would likely be the equivalent. > > Jose > > s/v Steady State > Rose Haven, MD > >> On Dec 30, 2019, at 6:31 PM, Shawn Boles wrote: >> >> ?Hi: >> >> I have used a torqeedo electric for the last 10 years on Fern Ridge Lake in >> Oregon. I have a long shaft 3 horsepower equivalent and find it it's >> sufficient for getting in and out of the slip. Not too good against serious >> winds and waves but can push the boat at low speeds up to 15 km. Easy to >> recharge and Bulletproof. >> >> Cheers, >> >> Shawn >> >> s/v Sweet Baboo >> >>> On Mon, Dec 30, 2019, 2:36 PM Charles Nieman >>> wrote: >>> >>> There has been discussion regarding the use of the new electric motors and >>> I know Stan outfitted one boat with a slick mounting inside the laz. I?m >>> thinking it may be time to join the revolution. Trying to figure out how >>> much motor I need for lake sailing. I?ve been using a Honda 5hp quiet >>> successfully >>> >>> Any advise from the fleet? >>> >>> Sent from my iPhone >>> >>> Charles Nieman >>> SV Daydreams 98 R22 >>> Arlington, TX >>> >>> From rhodes22dave at gmail.com Wed Jun 3 21:45:26 2020 From: rhodes22dave at gmail.com (David Keyes) Date: Wed, 3 Jun 2020 20:45:26 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Electric Motor In-Reply-To: <3438DD74-6878-41AB-878F-052847012DC9@gmail.com> References: <4B5421EF-2575-4F7E-8694-9D8B1EAA3AC8@gmail.com> <3438DD74-6878-41AB-878F-052847012DC9@gmail.com> Message-ID: <2FFDD6B3-B34C-492B-BBD4-90476B09DD68@gmail.com> I don?t know what Stan?s Torqeedo setup is. In the photo of Jose?s boat from around 2017, it looks like there is no throttle/gear control on the tiller. Torqeedo?s standard remote throttle is a side mounted, large control as found on many water ski power boats. Torqeedo sells an expensive top mounted throttle/gear control, but it looks too wide to be mounted neatly on a plate on top of the tiller. So I don?t know where Stan?s setup placed this control. I have loved having Stan?s tiller mounted control for my 20 year-old Yamaha 9.9 David Keyes > On Jun 3, 2020, at 7:20 PM, David Keyes wrote: > > Jose, I read that you are using the Torqeedo Cruise 4.0 R. I am thinking of getting the 2.0 R or 4.0 R, although the cost becomes somewhat staggering with the Torqeedo lithium batteries. Currently I am still using my 2001 Yamaha 9.9 with Stan?s remote linkage to the sailboat tiller, and with his newer electric lift. If I continue with the 9.9, I have to replace the cables (not easy, since Yamaha doesn?t list the cables that originally came with the 2001 setup. > > One of my hesitations with the Torqeedo arises from user posts on the internet about lack of service for repairs. Unless a replacement part can be shipped, apparently the whole motor has to be shipped back to Hong Kong. Aside from service and cost, the idea of electric instead of gas is appealing, and the Torqeedo motors seem very nifty. > > I would like to drop down to the smaller 2.0 (5 hp equivalent), since all we usually do is motor out of the marina and switch immediately to sail. But there have been a few times on Lake Travis near Austin, Texas (where my boat sits in the water 12 months a year?I have never owned a trailer), when the weather picks up fairly suddenly, and the 4.0 would produce almost as much power as my Yamaha 9.9. > > Now that you have been using your 4.0 for several years, are you still happy with your switch from the Yamaha 9.9? Are you using the Torqeedo Power 48-5000 battery that weighs about 80 pounds and costs about 5 grand? Arrggh. What kind of mount did you acquire or build for the battery? Does the Torqeedo remote cable and control unit install satisfactorily onto the sailboat tiller? > > I will appreciate your views and experience on this. > > I have a 2011 R22, and when I bought it new, I transferred my Yamaha 9.9 to it from my earlier 2001 R22. The motor still runs well?or will run again if I can replace the control cables?but is very temperamental when leaving and returning through the marina to my slip at the end closest to a limestone cliff. It gets pretty exciting with a trailing wind having to make a hard turn to port into the last slip, with larger boats than mine all around me and the Yamaha that, as usual, has decided at that point to quit. Once I am out in the lake with no obstacles around, it will run all day as if it never stalls or misses as long as it has gas. But of course that is when I am sailing instead of motoring, weather permitting. > > David Keyes > >> On Dec 30, 2019, at 6:23 PM, Jose Faraldo-Gomez > wrote: >> >> Hello Charles >> >> We?ve had a Torqueedo Cruise 4.0R for a few years and in terms of power I can?t tell it apart from the (admittedly rather old) Yamaha T9.9 we had before. This particular Torqueedo motor is advertised as equivalent to 8 HP, so this seems accurate. If you get by with a Honda 5 HP, one of the Cruise 2.0 models (either with remote throttle or with tiller) would likely be the equivalent. >> >> Jose >> >> s/v Steady State >> Rose Haven, MD >> >>> On Dec 30, 2019, at 6:31 PM, Shawn Boles > wrote: >>> >>> ?Hi: >>> >>> I have used a torqeedo electric for the last 10 years on Fern Ridge Lake in >>> Oregon. I have a long shaft 3 horsepower equivalent and find it it's >>> sufficient for getting in and out of the slip. Not too good against serious >>> winds and waves but can push the boat at low speeds up to 15 km. Easy to >>> recharge and Bulletproof. >>> >>> Cheers, >>> >>> Shawn >>> >>> s/v Sweet Baboo >>> >>>> On Mon, Dec 30, 2019, 2:36 PM Charles Nieman > >>>> wrote: >>>> >>>> There has been discussion regarding the use of the new electric motors and >>>> I know Stan outfitted one boat with a slick mounting inside the laz. I?m >>>> thinking it may be time to join the revolution. Trying to figure out how >>>> much motor I need for lake sailing. I?ve been using a Honda 5hp quiet >>>> successfully >>>> >>>> Any advise from the fleet? >>>> >>>> Sent from my iPhone >>>> >>>> Charles Nieman >>>> SV Daydreams 98 R22 >>>> Arlington, TX >>>> >>>> > From allynb at adsne.com Wed Jun 3 23:41:36 2020 From: allynb at adsne.com (Allyn Baskerville) Date: Thu, 4 Jun 2020 03:41:36 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Problem with furler In-Reply-To: <67E65DF4-CBC0-446C-B154-E60018B68A8F@adsne.com> References: <67E65DF4-CBC0-446C-B154-E60018B68A8F@adsne.com> Message-ID: I have a 2001 Rhodes and noticed tonight the furler is separating and the line is cut party through. Is there a risk of the forestay coming loose? I was planning on sailing tomorrow, but I won?t if this is dangerous. I?ve not taken one of these apart before, but I?m concerned I?ll have real problems on my hand if this isn?t fixed ASAP. Thanks [cid:CB4F023F-7409-442D-8399-5701822AE53D] Sent from my iPhone -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0329.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 276178 bytes Desc: IMG_0329.jpg URL: From jfn302 at yahoo.com Thu Jun 4 01:32:04 2020 From: jfn302 at yahoo.com (jfn302 at yahoo.com) Date: Thu, 4 Jun 2020 00:32:04 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Electric Motor In-Reply-To: <3438DD74-6878-41AB-878F-052847012DC9@gmail.com> References: <4B5421EF-2575-4F7E-8694-9D8B1EAA3AC8@gmail.com> <3438DD74-6878-41AB-878F-052847012DC9@gmail.com> Message-ID: <066501d63a31$7bb18b90$7314a2b0$@yahoo.com> David, I haven't used the Torqeedo, but I used a the big Minn Kota motor that Walmart sells. I think it is equivalent to 4.5 HP. On 2 of the 100 AH deep cell batteries that Walmart also sells, I could putt all the way across the lake to the restaurant and back on the trolling motor alone. Which is a 10 mile round trip. And the boat would do 3-5 knots depending on the wind. The only time I ever struggled with that little horsepower equivalent was when the wind was blowing 25-30 and I was putting my boat in from the dock and moving it to my slip. Took about 10 minutes with the boat barely moving against the wind, but it still got me from the dock to the slip. I would say that going with the 2.0 would work, unless you want the extra that the 4.0 would give you in high wind conditions. Oh, and all m trolling motor mis-adventures were on a Santana 22, my Rhodes is still a work in progress ? James -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of David Keyes Sent: Wednesday, June 3, 2020 7:21 PM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Electric Motor Jose, I read that you are using the Torqeedo Cruise 4.0 R. I am thinking of getting the 2.0 R or 4.0 R, although the cost becomes somewhat staggering with the Torqeedo lithium batteries. Currently I am still using my 2001 Yamaha 9.9 with Stan?s remote linkage to the sailboat tiller, and with his newer electric lift. If I continue with the 9.9, I have to replace the cables (not easy, since Yamaha doesn?t list the cables that originally came with the 2001 setup. One of my hesitations with the Torqeedo arises from user posts on the internet about lack of service for repairs. Unless a replacement part can be shipped, apparently the whole motor has to be shipped back to Hong Kong. Aside from service and cost, the idea of electric instead of gas is appealing, and the Torqeedo motors seem very nifty. I would like to drop down to the smaller 2.0 (5 hp equivalent), since all we usually do is motor out of the marina and switch immediately to sail. But there have been a few times on Lake Travis near Austin, Texas (where my boat sits in the water 12 months a year?I have never owned a trailer), when the weather picks up fairly suddenly, and the 4.0 would produce almost as much power as my Yamaha 9.9. Now that you have been using your 4.0 for several years, are you still happy with your switch from the Yamaha 9.9? Are you using the Torqeedo Power 48-5000 battery that weighs about 80 pounds and costs about 5 grand? Arrggh. What kind of mount did you acquire or build for the battery? Does the Torqeedo remote cable and control unit install satisfactorily onto the sailboat tiller? I will appreciate your views and experience on this. I have a 2011 R22, and when I bought it new, I transferred my Yamaha 9.9 to it from my earlier 2001 R22. The motor still runs well?or will run again if I can replace the control cables?but is very temperamental when leaving and returning through the marina to my slip at the end closest to a limestone cliff. It gets pretty exciting with a trailing wind having to make a hard turn to port into the last slip, with larger boats than mine all around me and the Yamaha that, as usual, has decided at that point to quit. Once I am out in the lake with no obstacles around, it will run all day as if it never stalls or misses as long as it has gas. But of course that is when I am sailing instead of motoring, weather permitting. David Keyes From jose.faraldo at gmail.com Thu Jun 4 03:42:07 2020 From: jose.faraldo at gmail.com (jose) Date: Thu, 4 Jun 2020 00:42:07 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Electric Motor In-Reply-To: <3438DD74-6878-41AB-878F-052847012DC9@gmail.com> References: <4B5421EF-2575-4F7E-8694-9D8B1EAA3AC8@gmail.com> <3438DD74-6878-41AB-878F-052847012DC9@gmail.com> Message-ID: <1591256527620-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Hi David, No regrets so far. It's been really good - completely dependable, in all (reasonable) conditions, and has required barely any maintenance. We haven't had to service or repair it yet, so I can't comment on parts availability. At the time we got the motor the single 48V battery wasn't for sale - so what we have is two 24V batteries (I believe the current model is 24-3500). Initially we had the batteries under the cockpit seats - one on each side. They weren't easy to shift around, so a lot of debris would tend to accumulate all around. I also wondered if all that off-center weight was really OK. Anyway, we now have the batteries inside the cabin - one at either side of the foot of the step (see picture attached), so they're mostly out of sight. If I had the singe 48V battery I'd place it under the step too. The chargers are mounted in the galley, under the counter (see picture), so all the cabling runs along the back of the galley and the very back of the cabin, also out of sight. The only thing I miss from the Yamaha set up is the tiller-motor linkage. But I think it's a solvable problem. Also, it seems that Torqueedo now has gear for controllers for solar charging - I think that'd be worth exploring too. Best regards Jose -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From jose.faraldo at gmail.com Thu Jun 4 04:06:48 2020 From: jose.faraldo at gmail.com (jose) Date: Thu, 4 Jun 2020 01:06:48 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Electric Motor In-Reply-To: <2FFDD6B3-B34C-492B-BBD4-90476B09DD68@gmail.com> References: <4B5421EF-2575-4F7E-8694-9D8B1EAA3AC8@gmail.com> <3438DD74-6878-41AB-878F-052847012DC9@gmail.com> <2FFDD6B3-B34C-492B-BBD4-90476B09DD68@gmail.com> Message-ID: <1591258008703-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Hi David, You're quite right; the remote throttle is significantly wider than the tiller, so I doubt there would be a good way to mount it there - though I might lack imagination. In our boat Stan mounted the throttle on the port-side gunwale (see picture attached), so it is within reach while handling the tiller. Jose -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From ignats at comcast.net Thu Jun 4 09:11:10 2020 From: ignats at comcast.net (Don Colanero) Date: Thu, 4 Jun 2020 06:11:10 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] New owner, new sailor. In-Reply-To: <1590375843958-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1589894840430-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1589981808838-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1590375843958-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <1591276270807-0.post@n5.nabble.com> To all with pink rub rails: Stan as a small supply of red insert on hand and can have more made up. I purchased a length last week and it was easy to install into the existing track. Don Dragonfly North East, MD -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From rhodes22dave at gmail.com Thu Jun 4 09:32:21 2020 From: rhodes22dave at gmail.com (David Keyes) Date: Thu, 4 Jun 2020 08:32:21 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] New owner, new sailor. In-Reply-To: <1591276270807-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1591276270807-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <05112F9A-B890-4D44-B006-8247DC89B279@gmail.com> Don, can the new rub rails easily be installed while the boat is in the water? I would be on the deck leaning over from the deck or gunnels. Or maybe I could squeeze an inflatable dinghy alongside in my narrow slip. David Keyes Sent from my iPhone > On Jun 4, 2020, at 8:11 AM, Don Colanero wrote: > > ?To all with pink rub rails: > > Stan as a small supply of red insert on hand and can have more made up. I > purchased a length last week and it was easy to install into the existing > track. > > Don > Dragonfly > North East, MD > > > > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From ccowie at cowieassociates.com Thu Jun 4 09:33:41 2020 From: ccowie at cowieassociates.com (Chris Cowie) Date: Thu, 4 Jun 2020 13:33:41 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Motor Mount In-Reply-To: <85FEE3FA-D475-484C-9E2C-6CFE9B40055A@stottarchitecture.com> References: <03FD3E2B-C823-4E42-8483-33FB5A89E980@stottarchitecture.com> <5E4905C0-5E49-415F-A5DE-A903A6E377D2@stottarchitecture.com> <003c01d63926$6c8e8bb0$45aba310$@ebsmed.com> <85FEE3FA-D475-484C-9E2C-6CFE9B40055A@stottarchitecture.com> Message-ID: Richard: I have installed the standard west marine motor lift and added two electric actuators to raise and lower. I like being able to buy standard parts for installation and repairs. Christopher P. Cowie? ?? 700 N Fairfax Street Suite 304 Alexandria, Virginia 22314 703.717.9103 ex.204 ? 202.270.1470 mobile [ccowie at cowieassociates.com] Please consider the environment before printing this email. -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of Richard Stott Sent: Tuesday, June 2, 2020 6:01 PM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Motor Mount Hey Mike Thanks for the research and the drawings. The lift on Dynamic Equilibrium is what I have seen and remembered. I have tried to buy this from Stan, but he told me I?d have to bring the boat to Edmonton to have it installed. Not sure why. It looks robust and permanent, but it also looks overly large and cumbersome for operating the motor with the tiller. I?m thinking that this West marinate bracket will do the trick. It has a 16? vertical trail which allows the motor to lift all the way above the waterline without tilting it and all the gear moves with the motor so there is nothing in the way of steering or reaching controls. Has anyone chosen this ?dark side?? Any reports on after market /non-GB mounts? Thanks Ric Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP www.stottarchitecture.com Office 631-283-1777 Cell 516-965-3164 > On Jun 2, 2020, at 5:40 PM, Michael D. Weisner wrote: > > Ric, > > I'm not sure what you are looking to build in the way of a motor mount. > > I searched the archives and found a photo of an GB design on Roger's Rhodes from a 2019 post at: > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20190526/bf33e9c5/attachment.jpg > and > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20190526/97a8a159/attachment.jpeg > Maybe Stan can ship you one. > > Way back in 2007, Jay Bulfer nearly lost his motor while trying to beat out a storm. s/v Just Bent's engine mount had failed. He provided the attached drawing and reconstructed the mount using stainless steel (he is a metal fabricator at jbtek.com). > > My GB motor mount looks a lot like yours with the exception of the wood (see photos added at the end of the message). > > Mike > s/v Wind Lass ('91) > Nissequogue River, NY > I?d rather be sailing :~) > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: MotorMounting.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 2303172 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: MotorMountPortSide.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 1833453 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: JB's Motor Mount CCF06112007_00000.pdf > Type: application/pdf > Size: 775013 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: From mweisner at ebsmed.com Thu Jun 4 11:14:15 2020 From: mweisner at ebsmed.com (Michael D. Weisner) Date: Thu, 4 Jun 2020 11:14:15 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Motor Mount In-Reply-To: References: <03FD3E2B-C823-4E42-8483-33FB5A89E980@stottarchitecture.com> <5E4905C0-5E49-415F-A5DE-A903A6E377D2@stottarchitecture.com> <003c01d63926$6c8e8bb0$45aba310$@ebsmed.com> <85FEE3FA-D475-484C-9E2C-6CFE9B40055A@stottarchitecture.com> Message-ID: <012701d63a82$d07dc070$71794150$@ebsmed.com> Chris, Any pictures? Mike s/v Wind Lass ('91) Nissequogue River, NY -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of Chris Cowie Sent: Thursday, June 4, 2020 9:34 AM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Motor Mount Richard: I have installed the standard west marine motor lift and added two electric actuators to raise and lower. I like being able to buy standard parts for installation and repairs. Christopher P. Cowie 700 N Fairfax Street Suite 304 Alexandria, Virginia 22314 703.717.9103 ex.204 ? 202.270.1470 mobile [ccowie at cowieassociates.com] From rlowe at vt.edu Thu Jun 4 12:32:46 2020 From: rlowe at vt.edu (Lowe, Rob) Date: Thu, 4 Jun 2020 16:32:46 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Problem with furler In-Reply-To: References: <67E65DF4-CBC0-446C-B154-E60018B68A8F@adsne.com>, Message-ID: Allyn, If your furling line parts your forestay will not be effected. But you won't be able to furl your head sail. You can furl it by hand if you really need to, but that's difficult in a strong wind and it means you have to put your hands on the sail and wrap it up. You can replace the furling line with headsail up, but it's a mental challenge. You would untie the knot on the top of your furling drum and feed that line down and and remove it and replace the line. The challenge there is to get the line running in the right direction around the drum (make note of how yours is now) before you remove it. The line wraps up around the drum as the sail is unfurled and it took me a while to get my head around that. You also need to get it so there are a few turns left on the drum when the sail is furled. If the separation is right near the end of the line (hard to tell from the photo), you might be able to grab that knot, pull up on it until the separation is outside the drum and re-knot it if your furling line is long enough. - rob ________________________________ From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of Allyn Baskerville Sent: Wednesday, June 3, 2020 11:41 PM To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Problem with furler I have a 2001 Rhodes and noticed tonight the furler is separating and the line is cut party through. Is there a risk of the forestay coming loose? I was planning on sailing tomorrow, but I won?t if this is dangerous. I?ve not taken one of these apart before, but I?m concerned I?ll have real problems on my hand if this isn?t fixed ASAP. Thanks [cid:CB4F023F-7409-442D-8399-5701822AE53D] Sent from my iPhone -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0329.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 276178 bytes Desc: IMG_0329.jpg URL: From ric at stottarchitecture.com Thu Jun 4 12:48:29 2020 From: ric at stottarchitecture.com (Ric Stott) Date: Thu, 4 Jun 2020 12:48:29 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Motor Mount In-Reply-To: References: <03FD3E2B-C823-4E42-8483-33FB5A89E980@stottarchitecture.com> <5E4905C0-5E49-415F-A5DE-A903A6E377D2@stottarchitecture.com> <003c01d63926$6c8e8bb0$45aba310$@ebsmed.com> <85FEE3FA-D475-484C-9E2C-6CFE9B40055A@stottarchitecture.com> Message-ID: Sounds all good Mike If you can make a hand sketch, I can make a computer drawing in 3D. Quite crazy today with tech issues, but lets keep it going. Ric Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP www.stottarchitecture.com Office 631-283-1777 Cell 516-965-3164 > On Jun 4, 2020, at 9:33 AM, Chris Cowie wrote: > > Richard: > > I have installed the standard west marine motor lift and added two electric actuators to raise and lower. I like being able to buy standard parts for installation and repairs. > > Christopher P. Cowie > > 700 N Fairfax Street > Suite 304 > Alexandria, Virginia 22314 > 703.717.9103 ex.204 ? 202.270.1470 mobile > [ccowie at cowieassociates.com] > > > > Please consider the environment before printing this email. > > -----Original Message----- > From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of Richard Stott > Sent: Tuesday, June 2, 2020 6:01 PM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Motor Mount > > Hey Mike > Thanks for the research and the drawings. > The lift on Dynamic Equilibrium is what I have seen and remembered. > I have tried to buy this from Stan, but he told me I?d have to bring the boat to Edmonton to have it installed. > Not sure why. > It looks robust and permanent, but it also looks overly large and cumbersome for operating the motor with the tiller. > I?m thinking that this West marinate bracket will do the trick. > It has a 16? vertical trail which allows the motor to lift all the way above the waterline without tilting it and all the gear moves with the motor so there is nothing in the way of steering or reaching controls. > Has anyone chosen this ?dark side?? > Any reports on after market /non-GB mounts? > Thanks Ric > > > > > Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP > www.stottarchitecture.com > Office 631-283-1777 > Cell 516-965-3164 > > > > > >> On Jun 2, 2020, at 5:40 PM, Michael D. Weisner wrote: >> >> Ric, >> >> I'm not sure what you are looking to build in the way of a motor mount. >> >> I searched the archives and found a photo of an GB design on Roger's Rhodes from a 2019 post at: >> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20190526/bf33e9c5/attachment.jpg >> and >> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20190526/97a8a159/attachment.jpeg >> Maybe Stan can ship you one. >> >> Way back in 2007, Jay Bulfer nearly lost his motor while trying to beat out a storm. s/v Just Bent's engine mount had failed. He provided the attached drawing and reconstructed the mount using stainless steel (he is a metal fabricator at jbtek.com). >> >> My GB motor mount looks a lot like yours with the exception of the wood (see photos added at the end of the message). >> >> Mike >> s/v Wind Lass ('91) >> Nissequogue River, NY >> I?d rather be sailing :~) >> >> -------------- next part -------------- >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >> Name: MotorMounting.jpg >> Type: image/jpeg >> Size: 2303172 bytes >> Desc: not available >> URL: >> -------------- next part -------------- >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >> Name: MotorMountPortSide.jpg >> Type: image/jpeg >> Size: 1833453 bytes >> Desc: not available >> URL: >> -------------- next part -------------- >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >> Name: JB's Motor Mount CCF06112007_00000.pdf >> Type: application/pdf >> Size: 775013 bytes >> Desc: not available >> URL: > From ccowie at cowieassociates.com Thu Jun 4 12:56:02 2020 From: ccowie at cowieassociates.com (Chris Cowie) Date: Thu, 4 Jun 2020 09:56:02 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Motor Mount In-Reply-To: <012701d63a82$d07dc070$71794150$@ebsmed.com> References: <1591102736784-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <03FD3E2B-C823-4E42-8483-33FB5A89E980@stottarchitecture.com> <5E4905C0-5E49-415F-A5DE-A903A6E377D2@stottarchitecture.com> <003c01d63926$6c8e8bb0$45aba310$@ebsmed.com> <85FEE3FA-D475-484C-9E2C-6CFE9B40055A@stottarchitecture.com> <012701d63a82$d07dc070$71794150$@ebsmed.com> Message-ID: <1591289762340-0.post@n5.nabble.com> enclosed is a photo of the motor mount ----- Chris Cowie Voilier Yachts Sales & Service Representative www.voilieryachts.com 703.717.9041 phone | 202.270.1470 mobile 10275 Demarr Rd White Plains, MD 20695 [ccowie at voilieryachts.com] -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From rhodes22dave at gmail.com Thu Jun 4 13:54:37 2020 From: rhodes22dave at gmail.com (David Keyes) Date: Thu, 4 Jun 2020 12:54:37 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Electric Motor In-Reply-To: <066501d63a31$7bb18b90$7314a2b0$@yahoo.com> References: <4B5421EF-2575-4F7E-8694-9D8B1EAA3AC8@gmail.com> <3438DD74-6878-41AB-878F-052847012DC9@gmail.com> <066501d63a31$7bb18b90$7314a2b0$@yahoo.com> Message-ID: <0613648E-ABFA-446C-95F2-3DADBBB0C9F7@gmail.com> James, thank you for the information. That gives me a good idea on needed electric motor power. I would love to try the even smaller Torqeedo Travel 1003 3hp engine, but I think it would be too small. It is rated for sailboats up to 1.5 tons, and I think the R22 is about 2 tons without people or other load. The nice things about the 1003 are small size and weight?easy to carry on and off?and the small battery that snaps into the motor head and looks like part of the outboard. It is relatively inexpensive, and with a spare battery, one is further protected from running out of power. One 1003 video shows an owner that simply removes his battery each time and charges it at home. Reading your story, I would be comfortable with the Torqeedo Cruise 2.0 R, which is equivalent to a 5hp gas motor. The 4.0 R (8hp) is about the same motor size and weight, but requires twice the size and weight in batteries. David > On Jun 4, 2020, at 12:32 AM, James Nichols via Rhodes22-list wrote: > > David, > > I haven't used the Torqeedo, but I used a the big Minn Kota motor that Walmart sells. I think it is equivalent to 4.5 HP. > > On 2 of the 100 AH deep cell batteries that Walmart also sells, I could putt all the way across the lake to the restaurant and back on the trolling motor alone. Which is a 10 mile round trip. And the boat would do 3-5 knots depending on the wind. > > The only time I ever struggled with that little horsepower equivalent was when the wind was blowing 25-30 and I was putting my boat in from the dock and moving it to my slip. Took about 10 minutes with the boat barely moving against the wind, but it still got me from the dock to the slip. > > I would say that going with the 2.0 would work, unless you want the extra that the 4.0 would give you in high wind conditions. > > Oh, and all m trolling motor mis-adventures were on a Santana 22, my Rhodes is still a work in progress ? > > James > > -----Original Message----- > From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of David Keyes > Sent: Wednesday, June 3, 2020 7:21 PM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Electric Motor > > Jose, I read that you are using the Torqeedo Cruise 4.0 R. I am thinking of getting the 2.0 R or 4.0 R, although the cost becomes somewhat staggering with the Torqeedo lithium batteries. Currently I am still using my 2001 Yamaha 9.9 with Stan?s remote linkage to the sailboat tiller, and with his newer electric lift. If I continue with the 9.9, I have to replace the cables (not easy, since Yamaha doesn?t list the cables that originally came with the 2001 setup. > > One of my hesitations with the Torqeedo arises from user posts on the internet about lack of service for repairs. Unless a replacement part can be shipped, apparently the whole motor has to be shipped back to Hong Kong. Aside from service and cost, the idea of electric instead of gas is appealing, and the Torqeedo motors seem very nifty. > > I would like to drop down to the smaller 2.0 (5 hp equivalent), since all we usually do is motor out of the marina and switch immediately to sail. But there have been a few times on Lake Travis near Austin, Texas (where my boat sits in the water 12 months a year?I have never owned a trailer), when the weather picks up fairly suddenly, and the 4.0 would produce almost as much power as my Yamaha 9.9. > > Now that you have been using your 4.0 for several years, are you still happy with your switch from the Yamaha 9.9? Are you using the Torqeedo Power 48-5000 battery that weighs about 80 pounds and costs about 5 grand? Arrggh. What kind of mount did you acquire or build for the battery? Does the Torqeedo remote cable and control unit install satisfactorily onto the sailboat tiller? > > I will appreciate your views and experience on this. > > I have a 2011 R22, and when I bought it new, I transferred my Yamaha 9.9 to it from my earlier 2001 R22. The motor still runs well?or will run again if I can replace the control cables?but is very temperamental when leaving and returning through the marina to my slip at the end closest to a limestone cliff. It gets pretty exciting with a trailing wind having to make a hard turn to port into the last slip, with larger boats than mine all around me and the Yamaha that, as usual, has decided at that point to quit. Once I am out in the lake with no obstacles around, it will run all day as if it never stalls or misses as long as it has gas. But of course that is when I am sailing instead of motoring, weather permitting. > > David Keyes > > From rhodes22dave at gmail.com Thu Jun 4 14:09:31 2020 From: rhodes22dave at gmail.com (David Keyes) Date: Thu, 4 Jun 2020 13:09:31 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Electric Motor In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Shawn, this is very interesting that you find your Torqeedo 3hp motor (advertised today as the Torpedo Travel 1003) to be sufficient in power for getting in and out of a marina. I like the simplicity, light weight (of motor and of detachable battery) . It seems so simple to just bring the battery to and from the boat and charge it at home. I have used for 20 years a Yamaha 9.9 with Stan?s tiller attached controls and steering. Besides for the power issue, I would really miss being able to have a single point of control and being able to look forward as I turn hard to port into a tricky, narrow slip entrance. I could solve that in part by locking the engine in straight position and using just the rudder for steering, but being able to turn both the rudder and the motor propeller together helps for the sharp turn that I have to make in tight space (which gets very exciting in higher winds). David > On Dec 30, 2019, at 5:31 PM, Shawn Boles wrote: > > Hi: > > I have used a torqeedo electric for the last 10 years on Fern Ridge Lake in > Oregon. I have a long shaft 3 horsepower equivalent and find it it's > sufficient for getting in and out of the slip. Not too good against serious > winds and waves but can push the boat at low speeds up to 15 km. Easy to > recharge and Bulletproof. > > Cheers, > > Shawn > > s/v Sweet Baboo > > On Mon, Dec 30, 2019, 2:36 PM Charles Nieman > wrote: > >> There has been discussion regarding the use of the new electric motors and >> I know Stan outfitted one boat with a slick mounting inside the laz. I?m >> thinking it may be time to join the revolution. Trying to figure out how >> much motor I need for lake sailing. I?ve been using a Honda 5hp quiet >> successfully >> >> Any advise from the fleet? >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> Charles Nieman >> SV Daydreams 98 R22 >> Arlington, TX >> >> From bferguson at jcu.edu Thu Jun 4 16:50:57 2020 From: bferguson at jcu.edu (NewIn76) Date: Thu, 4 Jun 2020 13:50:57 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] An opportunity to become a Rhodie for little down Message-ID: <1591303857601-0.post@n5.nabble.com> After a few weeks of thinking it over, I'm thinking I should sell my Rhodes 22. I think there is someone out there with more free time and a closer dock that could benefit from getting into an inexpensive R22. I can't park it any closer to me without running up a big storage bill and I think my time at work this summer & fall semester will be a lot busier than I originally planned. I?m not going to say she is the ?belle of the ball? because she isn?t. I have an Ohio Title, a GBI Certificate of Support signed by Stan, and everything to put her in the water. I just don?t have the time to do it at this point. The trailer is pretty stout, but new tires would be needed if you want to go any distance. 7-14.5 LT on a hubless rim. I have pictures from almost every angle just ask or send me a message direct. Full set of cushions. Decent set of sails, two tillers, one good rudder, additional rudder that split. Everything down below is original and no one has tinkered with the floor plan. No soft spots on deck. Pictures embedded sideways, sorry. Think it over. $1200. Located just north of Warren, OH near Mosquito Lake. Brian ----- Brian 1976 Rhodes 22 Cleveland -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From rhodes22dave at gmail.com Thu Jun 4 17:14:13 2020 From: rhodes22dave at gmail.com (David Keyes) Date: Thu, 4 Jun 2020 16:14:13 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Electric Motor In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Correction on the Torqeedo Travel model: The Travel 1103 CL looks like the best choice among the models in that series. > On Jun 4, 2020, at 1:09 PM, David Keyes wrote: > > Shawn, this is very interesting that you find your Torqeedo 3hp motor (advertised today as the Torpedo Travel 1003) to be sufficient in power for getting in and out of a marina. I like the simplicity, light weight (of motor and of detachable battery) . It seems so simple to just bring the battery to and from the boat and charge it at home. > > I have used for 20 years a Yamaha 9.9 with Stan?s tiller attached controls and steering. Besides for the power issue, I would really miss being able to have a single point of control and being able to look forward as I turn hard to port into a tricky, narrow slip entrance. I could solve that in part by locking the engine in straight position and using just the rudder for steering, but being able to turn both the rudder and the motor propeller together helps for the sharp turn that I have to make in tight space (which gets very exciting in higher winds). > > David > >> On Dec 30, 2019, at 5:31 PM, Shawn Boles wrote: >> >> Hi: >> >> I have used a torqeedo electric for the last 10 years on Fern Ridge Lake in >> Oregon. I have a long shaft 3 horsepower equivalent and find it it's >> sufficient for getting in and out of the slip. Not too good against serious >> winds and waves but can push the boat at low speeds up to 15 km. Easy to >> recharge and Bulletproof. >> >> Cheers, >> >> Shawn >> >> s/v Sweet Baboo >> >> On Mon, Dec 30, 2019, 2:36 PM Charles Nieman >> wrote: >> >>> There has been discussion regarding the use of the new electric motors and >>> I know Stan outfitted one boat with a slick mounting inside the laz. I?m >>> thinking it may be time to join the revolution. Trying to figure out how >>> much motor I need for lake sailing. I?ve been using a Honda 5hp quiet >>> successfully >>> >>> Any advise from the fleet? >>> >>> Sent from my iPhone >>> >>> Charles Nieman >>> SV Daydreams 98 R22 >>> Arlington, TX >>> >>> > From goldsmith.cf at gmail.com Thu Jun 4 18:56:29 2020 From: goldsmith.cf at gmail.com (Frank Goldsmith) Date: Thu, 4 Jun 2020 18:56:29 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] An opportunity to become a Rhodie for little down In-Reply-To: <1591303857601-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1591303857601-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <9E3D1A93-1985-4905-9FAE-78EF105ECC30@gmail.com> Sounds like some lucky sailor will get a helluva deal. > On Jun 4, 2020, at 4:50 PM, NewIn76 via Rhodes22-list wrote: > > After a few weeks of thinking it over, I'm thinking I should sell my Rhodes > 22. I think there is someone out there with more free time and a closer > dock that could benefit from getting into an inexpensive R22. I can't park > it any closer to me without running up a big storage bill and I think my > time at work this summer & fall semester will be a lot busier than I > originally planned. I?m not going to say she is the ?belle of the ball? > because she isn?t. I have an Ohio Title, a GBI Certificate of Support > signed by Stan, and everything to put her in the water. I just don?t have > the time to do it at this point. The trailer is pretty stout, but new tires > would be needed if you want to go any distance. 7-14.5 LT on a hubless rim. > I have pictures from almost every angle just ask or send me a message > direct. Full set of cushions. Decent set of sails, two tillers, one good > rudder, additional rudder that split. Everything down below is original and > no one has tinkered with the floor plan. No soft spots on deck. Pictures > embedded sideways, sorry. > > Think it over. $1200. Located just north of Warren, OH near Mosquito Lake. > > Brian > > > > > > > ----- > Brian > 1976 Rhodes 22 > Cleveland > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From peter at sunnybeeches.com Thu Jun 4 20:50:48 2020 From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg) Date: Thu, 4 Jun 2020 20:50:48 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] An opportunity to become a Rhodie for little down In-Reply-To: <1591303857601-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1591303857601-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: I find it continually depressing how little many (most? all?) people think a used Rhodes 22 is worth. Best of luck, Brian. ?Peter > On Jun 4, 2020, at 4:50 PM, NewIn76 via Rhodes22-list wrote: > > After a few weeks of thinking it over, I'm thinking I should sell my Rhodes > 22. I think there is someone out there with more free time and a closer > dock that could benefit from getting into an inexpensive R22. I can't park > it any closer to me without running up a big storage bill and I think my > time at work this summer & fall semester will be a lot busier than I > originally planned. I?m not going to say she is the ?belle of the ball? > because she isn?t. I have an Ohio Title, a GBI Certificate of Support > signed by Stan, and everything to put her in the water. I just don?t have > the time to do it at this point. The trailer is pretty stout, but new tires > would be needed if you want to go any distance. 7-14.5 LT on a hubless rim. > I have pictures from almost every angle just ask or send me a message > direct. Full set of cushions. Decent set of sails, two tillers, one good > rudder, additional rudder that split. Everything down below is original and > no one has tinkered with the floor plan. No soft spots on deck. Pictures > embedded sideways, sorry. > > Think it over. $1200. Located just north of Warren, OH near Mosquito Lake. > > Brian > > > > > > > ----- > Brian > 1976 Rhodes 22 > Cleveland > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From peter at sunnybeeches.com Thu Jun 4 21:08:15 2020 From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg) Date: Thu, 4 Jun 2020 21:08:15 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Why do some list messages come from 'Joe Blow via Rhodes22-list'? Message-ID: <431CE266-4DAE-4F1A-A6CF-5F865436F0F7@sunnybeeches.com> Maybe this has been happening for a long time, but I?ve only begun to notice it recently. For most messages from ?da list? that show up in my inbox, the message originator appears as the name of the person who sent the email: ?Joe Blow?. For some messages the originator appears as ?Joe Blow via Rhodes22-list'. When I reply to one of these ?via? messages, both ?Joe Blow? and ?The Rhodes 22 Email List? are put into the ?To:? line. Can anyone explain why this is happening? Thanks, Peter Nyberg Coventry, CT s/v Silverheels (1988/2016) From mark at whipplefamily.com Thu Jun 4 21:29:29 2020 From: mark at whipplefamily.com (Mark Whipple) Date: Thu, 4 Jun 2020 21:29:29 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] An opportunity to become a Rhodie for little down In-Reply-To: References: <1591303857601-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: This is a tough time to sell a boat. A very strong buyer's market. Mark Whipple 2000 R22 Tiny Dancer Boston, MA On Thu, Jun 4, 2020 at 8:50 PM Peter Nyberg wrote: > I find it continually depressing how little many (most? all?) people think > a used Rhodes 22 is worth. > > Best of luck, Brian. > > ?Peter > > > On Jun 4, 2020, at 4:50 PM, NewIn76 via Rhodes22-list < > rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote: > > > > After a few weeks of thinking it over, I'm thinking I should sell my > Rhodes > > 22. I think there is someone out there with more free time and a closer > > dock that could benefit from getting into an inexpensive R22. I can't > park > > it any closer to me without running up a big storage bill and I think my > > time at work this summer & fall semester will be a lot busier than I > > originally planned. I?m not going to say she is the ?belle of the ball? > > because she isn?t. I have an Ohio Title, a GBI Certificate of Support > > signed by Stan, and everything to put her in the water. I just don?t > have > > the time to do it at this point. The trailer is pretty stout, but new > tires > > would be needed if you want to go any distance. 7-14.5 LT on a hubless > rim. > > I have pictures from almost every angle just ask or send me a message > > direct. Full set of cushions. Decent set of sails, two tillers, one > good > > rudder, additional rudder that split. Everything down below is original > and > > no one has tinkered with the floor plan. No soft spots on deck. > Pictures > > embedded sideways, sorry. > > > > Think it over. $1200. Located just north of Warren, OH near Mosquito > Lake. > > > > Brian > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ----- > > Brian > > 1976 Rhodes 22 > > Cleveland > > -- > > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > > From sea20 at verizon.net Thu Jun 4 22:25:59 2020 From: sea20 at verizon.net (Scott Andrews) Date: Thu, 4 Jun 2020 22:25:59 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] An opportunity to become a Rhodie for little down In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Wish i were closer, I?d buy it in a heartbeat. Sent from my iPhone > On Jun 4, 2020, at 9:29 PM, Mark Whipple wrote: > > ?This is a tough time to sell a boat. A very strong buyer's market. > > Mark Whipple > 2000 R22 Tiny Dancer > Boston, MA > >> On Thu, Jun 4, 2020 at 8:50 PM Peter Nyberg wrote: >> >> I find it continually depressing how little many (most? all?) people think >> a used Rhodes 22 is worth. >> >> Best of luck, Brian. >> >> ?Peter >> >>> On Jun 4, 2020, at 4:50 PM, NewIn76 via Rhodes22-list < >> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote: >>> >>> After a few weeks of thinking it over, I'm thinking I should sell my >> Rhodes >>> 22. I think there is someone out there with more free time and a closer >>> dock that could benefit from getting into an inexpensive R22. I can't >> park >>> it any closer to me without running up a big storage bill and I think my >>> time at work this summer & fall semester will be a lot busier than I >>> originally planned. I?m not going to say she is the ?belle of the ball? >>> because she isn?t. I have an Ohio Title, a GBI Certificate of Support >>> signed by Stan, and everything to put her in the water. I just don?t >> have >>> the time to do it at this point. The trailer is pretty stout, but new >> tires >>> would be needed if you want to go any distance. 7-14.5 LT on a hubless >> rim. >>> I have pictures from almost every angle just ask or send me a message >>> direct. Full set of cushions. Decent set of sails, two tillers, one >> good >>> rudder, additional rudder that split. Everything down below is original >> and >>> no one has tinkered with the floor plan. No soft spots on deck. >> Pictures >>> embedded sideways, sorry. >>> >>> Think it over. $1200. Located just north of Warren, OH near Mosquito >> Lake. >>> >>> Brian >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> ----- >>> Brian >>> 1976 Rhodes 22 >>> Cleveland >>> -- >>> Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ >> >> From rlowe at vt.edu Fri Jun 5 08:36:29 2020 From: rlowe at vt.edu (Lowe, Rob) Date: Fri, 5 Jun 2020 12:36:29 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] An opportunity to become a Rhodie for little down In-Reply-To: <1591303857601-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1591303857601-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: Brain, We all hate that day when we make the decision to part with our boat. A couple of questions. Is this IMF or standard main? How about the motor? - rob ________________________________ From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of NewIn76 via Rhodes22-list Sent: Thursday, June 4, 2020 4:50 PM To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: [Rhodes22-list] An opportunity to become a Rhodie for little down After a few weeks of thinking it over, I'm thinking I should sell my Rhodes 22. I think there is someone out there with more free time and a closer dock that could benefit from getting into an inexpensive R22. I can't park it any closer to me without running up a big storage bill and I think my time at work this summer & fall semester will be a lot busier than I originally planned. I?m not going to say she is the ?belle of the ball? because she isn?t. I have an Ohio Title, a GBI Certificate of Support signed by Stan, and everything to put her in the water. I just don?t have the time to do it at this point. The trailer is pretty stout, but new tires would be needed if you want to go any distance. 7-14.5 LT on a hubless rim. I have pictures from almost every angle just ask or send me a message direct. Full set of cushions. Decent set of sails, two tillers, one good rudder, additional rudder that split. Everything down below is original and no one has tinkered with the floor plan. No soft spots on deck. Pictures embedded sideways, sorry. Think it over. $1200. Located just north of Warren, OH near Mosquito Lake. Brian ----- Brian 1976 Rhodes 22 Cleveland -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From rlowe at vt.edu Fri Jun 5 10:18:02 2020 From: rlowe at vt.edu (Lowe, Rob) Date: Fri, 5 Jun 2020 14:18:02 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] An opportunity to become a Rhodie for little down In-Reply-To: References: <1591303857601-0.post@n5.nabble.com>, Message-ID: Peter, I agree, but it depends on what boat you have and what market you are in. When I sold my '76 with standard main and hank on jib, there was no interest in it. I finally advertised it locally as 'free boat and trailer with purchase of motor' and got $1500 for it. Which worked out well as I had just upgraded to a '92 with furling jib and IMF. - Rob ________________________________ From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of Peter Nyberg Sent: Thursday, June 4, 2020 8:50 PM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] An opportunity to become a Rhodie for little down I find it continually depressing how little many (most? all?) people think a used Rhodes 22 is worth. Best of luck, Brian. ?Peter > On Jun 4, 2020, at 4:50 PM, NewIn76 via Rhodes22-list wrote: > > After a few weeks of thinking it over, I'm thinking I should sell my Rhodes > 22. I think there is someone out there with more free time and a closer > dock that could benefit from getting into an inexpensive R22. I can't park > it any closer to me without running up a big storage bill and I think my > time at work this summer & fall semester will be a lot busier than I > originally planned. I?m not going to say she is the ?belle of the ball? > because she isn?t. I have an Ohio Title, a GBI Certificate of Support > signed by Stan, and everything to put her in the water. I just don?t have > the time to do it at this point. The trailer is pretty stout, but new tires > would be needed if you want to go any distance. 7-14.5 LT on a hubless rim. > I have pictures from almost every angle just ask or send me a message > direct. Full set of cushions. Decent set of sails, two tillers, one good > rudder, additional rudder that split. Everything down below is original and > no one has tinkered with the floor plan. No soft spots on deck. Pictures > embedded sideways, sorry. > > Think it over. $1200. Located just north of Warren, OH near Mosquito Lake. > > Brian > > > > > > > ----- > Brian > 1976 Rhodes 22 > Cleveland > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From bferguson at jcu.edu Fri Jun 5 10:34:16 2020 From: bferguson at jcu.edu (NewIn76) Date: Fri, 5 Jun 2020 07:34:16 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] An opportunity to become a Rhodie for little down In-Reply-To: References: <1591303857601-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <1591367656714-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Rob, Standard main, CDI Furler. Standing rigging is all present and in pretty decent shape. It's a 1976 hull so i know the rigging isn't original. No motor came with it and since I never got it to the lake this year I didn't put one on. I was going to try the free trailer with purchase of boat route. I'm not to the point of advertising on Craigslist or FB. I figured I would offer it to Da List first. I bought it on whim. My loss is someone's gain. Peter, I agree about those who undervalue a Rhodes. I paid approximately the same price I am asking for it. The previous owner was going to dig a hole in the ground and stick the boat in. I thought I could keep it from that fate. Maybe a newer Rhodes will be in my future. ----- Brian 1976 Rhodes 22 Cleveland -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From mweisner at ebsmed.com Fri Jun 5 10:49:16 2020 From: mweisner at ebsmed.com (Michael D. Weisner) Date: Fri, 5 Jun 2020 10:49:16 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Motor Mount In-Reply-To: References: <03FD3E2B-C823-4E42-8483-33FB5A89E980@stottarchitecture.com> <5E4905C0-5E49-415F-A5DE-A903A6E377D2@stottarchitecture.com> <003c01d63926$6c8e8bb0$45aba310$@ebsmed.com> <85FEE3FA-D475-484C-9E2C-6CFE9B40055A@stottarchitecture.com> Message-ID: <019401d63b48$7d012740$770375c0$@ebsmed.com> Hi Ric, What do you need me to sketch? Mike s/v Wind Lass ('91) Nissequogue River, NY -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of Ric Stott Sent: Thursday, June 4, 2020 12:48 PM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Motor Mount Sounds all good Mike If you can make a hand sketch, I can make a computer drawing in 3D. Quite crazy today with tech issues, but lets keep it going. Ric Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP www.stottarchitecture.com Office 631-283-1777 Cell 516-965-3164 > On Jun 4, 2020, at 9:33 AM, Chris Cowie wrote: > > Richard: > > I have installed the standard west marine motor lift and added two electric actuators to raise and lower. I like being able to buy standard parts for installation and repairs. > > Christopher P. Cowie > > 700 N Fairfax Street > Suite 304 > Alexandria, Virginia 22314 > 703.717.9103 ex.204 ? 202.270.1470 mobile > [ccowie at cowieassociates.com] > > > > Please consider the environment before printing this email. > > -----Original Message----- > From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of Richard Stott > Sent: Tuesday, June 2, 2020 6:01 PM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Motor Mount > > Hey Mike > Thanks for the research and the drawings. > The lift on Dynamic Equilibrium is what I have seen and remembered. > I have tried to buy this from Stan, but he told me I?d have to bring the boat to Edmonton to have it installed. > Not sure why. > It looks robust and permanent, but it also looks overly large and cumbersome for operating the motor with the tiller. > I?m thinking that this West marinate bracket will do the trick. > It has a 16? vertical trail which allows the motor to lift all the way above the waterline without tilting it and all the gear moves with the motor so there is nothing in the way of steering or reaching controls. > Has anyone chosen this ?dark side?? > Any reports on after market /non-GB mounts? > Thanks Ric > > > > > Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP > www.stottarchitecture.com > Office 631-283-1777 > Cell 516-965-3164 > > > > > >> On Jun 2, 2020, at 5:40 PM, Michael D. Weisner wrote: >> >> Ric, >> >> I'm not sure what you are looking to build in the way of a motor mount. >> >> I searched the archives and found a photo of an GB design on Roger's Rhodes from a 2019 post at: >> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20190526/bf33e9c5/attachment.jpg >> and >> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20190526/97a8a159/attachment.jpeg >> Maybe Stan can ship you one. >> >> Way back in 2007, Jay Bulfer nearly lost his motor while trying to beat out a storm. s/v Just Bent's engine mount had failed. He provided the attached drawing and reconstructed the mount using stainless steel (he is a metal fabricator at jbtek.com). >> >> My GB motor mount looks a lot like yours with the exception of the wood (see photos added at the end of the message). >> >> Mike >> s/v Wind Lass ('91) >> Nissequogue River, NY >> I?d rather be sailing :~) >> >> -------------- next part -------------- >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >> Name: MotorMounting.jpg >> Type: image/jpeg >> Size: 2303172 bytes >> Desc: not available >> URL: >> -------------- next part -------------- >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >> Name: MotorMountPortSide.jpg >> Type: image/jpeg >> Size: 1833453 bytes >> Desc: not available >> URL: >> -------------- next part -------------- >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >> Name: JB's Motor Mount CCF06112007_00000.pdf >> Type: application/pdf >> Size: 775013 bytes >> Desc: not available >> URL: > From ric at stottarchitecture.com Fri Jun 5 11:11:01 2020 From: ric at stottarchitecture.com (Richard Stott) Date: Fri, 5 Jun 2020 11:11:01 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Motor Mount In-Reply-To: <019401d63b48$7d012740$770375c0$@ebsmed.com> References: <03FD3E2B-C823-4E42-8483-33FB5A89E980@stottarchitecture.com> <5E4905C0-5E49-415F-A5DE-A903A6E377D2@stottarchitecture.com> <003c01d63926$6c8e8bb0$45aba310$@ebsmed.com> <85FEE3FA-D475-484C-9E2C-6CFE9B40055A@stottarchitecture.com> <019401d63b48$7d012740$770375c0$@ebsmed.com> Message-ID: Sorry MIke - that was intended for MIke Riter Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP www.stottarchitecture.com Office 631-283-1777 Cell 516-965-3164 > On Jun 5, 2020, at 10:49 AM, Michael D. Weisner wrote: > > Hi Ric, > > What do you need me to sketch? > > Mike > s/v Wind Lass ('91) > Nissequogue River, NY > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of Ric Stott > Sent: Thursday, June 4, 2020 12:48 PM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Motor Mount > > Sounds all good Mike > If you can make a hand sketch, I can make a computer drawing in 3D. > Quite crazy today with tech issues, but lets keep it going. > Ric > > Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP > www.stottarchitecture.com > Office 631-283-1777 > Cell 516-965-3164 > > > > > >> On Jun 4, 2020, at 9:33 AM, Chris Cowie wrote: >> >> Richard: >> >> I have installed the standard west marine motor lift and added two electric actuators to raise and lower. I like being able to buy standard parts for installation and repairs. >> >> Christopher P. Cowie >> >> 700 N Fairfax Street >> Suite 304 >> Alexandria, Virginia 22314 >> 703.717.9103 ex.204 ? 202.270.1470 mobile >> [ccowie at cowieassociates.com] >> >> >> >> Please consider the environment before printing this email. >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of Richard Stott >> Sent: Tuesday, June 2, 2020 6:01 PM >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Motor Mount >> >> Hey Mike >> Thanks for the research and the drawings. >> The lift on Dynamic Equilibrium is what I have seen and remembered. >> I have tried to buy this from Stan, but he told me I?d have to bring the boat to Edmonton to have it installed. >> Not sure why. >> It looks robust and permanent, but it also looks overly large and cumbersome for operating the motor with the tiller. >> I?m thinking that this West marinate bracket will do the trick. >> It has a 16? vertical trail which allows the motor to lift all the way above the waterline without tilting it and all the gear moves with the motor so there is nothing in the way of steering or reaching controls. >> Has anyone chosen this ?dark side?? >> Any reports on after market /non-GB mounts? >> Thanks Ric >> >> >> >> >> Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP >> www.stottarchitecture.com >> Office 631-283-1777 >> Cell 516-965-3164 >> >> >> >> >> >>> On Jun 2, 2020, at 5:40 PM, Michael D. Weisner wrote: >>> >>> Ric, >>> >>> I'm not sure what you are looking to build in the way of a motor mount. >>> >>> I searched the archives and found a photo of an GB design on Roger's Rhodes from a 2019 post at: >>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20190526/bf33e9c5/attachment.jpg >>> and >>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20190526/97a8a159/attachment.jpeg >>> Maybe Stan can ship you one. >>> >>> Way back in 2007, Jay Bulfer nearly lost his motor while trying to beat out a storm. s/v Just Bent's engine mount had failed. He provided the attached drawing and reconstructed the mount using stainless steel (he is a metal fabricator at jbtek.com). >>> >>> My GB motor mount looks a lot like yours with the exception of the wood (see photos added at the end of the message). >>> >>> Mike >>> s/v Wind Lass ('91) >>> Nissequogue River, NY >>> I?d rather be sailing :~) >>> >>> -------------- next part -------------- >>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >>> Name: MotorMounting.jpg >>> Type: image/jpeg >>> Size: 2303172 bytes >>> Desc: not available >>> URL: >>> -------------- next part -------------- >>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >>> Name: MotorMountPortSide.jpg >>> Type: image/jpeg >>> Size: 1833453 bytes >>> Desc: not available >>> URL: >>> -------------- next part -------------- >>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >>> Name: JB's Motor Mount CCF06112007_00000.pdf >>> Type: application/pdf >>> Size: 775013 bytes >>> Desc: not available >>> URL: >> > From rhodes22dave at gmail.com Fri Jun 5 11:50:44 2020 From: rhodes22dave at gmail.com (David Keyes) Date: Fri, 5 Jun 2020 10:50:44 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Electric Motor In-Reply-To: <1591258008703-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1591258008703-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <47D32FD1-3B8F-4B4C-9D2A-F33781D8E5F9@gmail.com> Well, I just thought of a problem (about using an electric motor with heavy batteries installed onboard). My lake (Lake Travis, Austin, Texas) has large fluctuations?up to 80 or 90 feet?in dry weather when the City of Austin and many downstream water users (rice farmers and downstream industries all the way to the Gulf of Mexico) take water out of the lake. Some summers, when the lake gets very low, our marina has to move it?s docks out from their cove and into the deeper parts of the lake?where there is no shore power. So a motor such as the Torqeedo 2.0 or 4.0 would be inoperative for an entire summer. This would not be a problem with the small, 3 hp equivalent, Torqeedo C 1103?its relatively light battery can be carried back and forth, charged at home, and snapped back into the engine top, where it looks like part of the engine. Problems: low power and range, rated for sailboats only up to 1-1/2 tons, and steering and throttle only by its non-removable tiller. I have Stan?s electric motor lift, which is so close to the boat that I would either have to replace the lift or devise a bracket or pin at the motor top clear of the snap-in battery that sits there. The bracket or pin would permit attachment to the cross-arm that pivots from the sailboat?s rudder head. Also, this could work only if the motor?s tiller can be rotated to a vertical position so as not to hit the transom. David Keyes S/V Arrowhead II (if a name were painted on it, which it isn?t) Lake Travis Sent from my iPhone > On Jun 4, 2020, at 3:06 AM, jose wrote: > > ?Hi David, > > You're quite right; the remote throttle is significantly wider than the > tiller, so I doubt there would be a good way to mount it there - though I > might lack imagination. In our boat Stan mounted the throttle on the > port-side gunwale (see picture attached), so it is within reach while > handling the tiller. > > Jose > > > > > > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From shawn.sustain at gmail.com Fri Jun 5 13:00:47 2020 From: shawn.sustain at gmail.com (Shawn Boles) Date: Fri, 5 Jun 2020 10:00:47 -0700 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Electric Motor In-Reply-To: <47D32FD1-3B8F-4B4C-9D2A-F33781D8E5F9@gmail.com> References: <1591258008703-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <47D32FD1-3B8F-4B4C-9D2A-F33781D8E5F9@gmail.com> Message-ID: Hi all : Torqueedo has a remote control if you don't like the tiller control. I also bought a add-on from them that allows you to charge the battery on the Travel models from house battery using a 12 volt plug cable. (About $50). They also make a solar charger for the travel models. Cheers, Shawn s/v Sweet Baboo On Fri, Jun 5, 2020, 8:50 AM David Keyes wrote: > Well, I just thought of a problem (about using an electric motor with > heavy batteries installed onboard). My lake (Lake Travis, Austin, Texas) > has large fluctuations?up to 80 or 90 feet?in dry weather when the City of > Austin and many downstream water users (rice farmers and downstream > industries all the way to the Gulf of Mexico) take water out of the lake. > Some summers, when the lake gets very low, our marina has to move it?s > docks out from their cove and into the deeper parts of the lake?where there > is no shore power. So a motor such as the Torqeedo 2.0 or 4.0 would be > inoperative for an entire summer. > > This would not be a problem with the small, 3 hp equivalent, Torqeedo C > 1103?its relatively light battery can be carried back and forth, charged at > home, and snapped back into the engine top, where it looks like part of the > engine. > > Problems: low power and range, rated for sailboats only up to 1-1/2 tons, > and steering and throttle only by its non-removable tiller. I have Stan?s > electric motor lift, which is so close to the boat that I would either have > to replace the lift or devise a bracket or pin at the motor top clear of > the snap-in battery that sits there. The bracket or pin would permit > attachment to the cross-arm that pivots from the sailboat?s rudder head. > Also, this could work only if the motor?s tiller can be rotated to a > vertical position so as not to hit the transom. > > David Keyes > S/V Arrowhead II (if a name were painted on it, which it isn?t) > Lake Travis > > Sent from my iPhone > > > On Jun 4, 2020, at 3:06 AM, jose wrote: > > > > ?Hi David, > > > > You're quite right; the remote throttle is significantly wider than the > > tiller, so I doubt there would be a good way to mount it there - though I > > might lack imagination. In our boat Stan mounted the throttle on the > > port-side gunwale (see picture attached), so it is within reach while > > handling the tiller. > > > > Jose > > > > > > > > > > > > -- > > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > From blue66corvette at hotmail.com Fri Jun 5 14:13:26 2020 From: blue66corvette at hotmail.com (Charles Nieman) Date: Fri, 5 Jun 2020 18:13:26 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Electric Motor In-Reply-To: References: <1591258008703-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <47D32FD1-3B8F-4B4C-9D2A-F33781D8E5F9@gmail.com>, Message-ID: I bought the 3hp this spring; it?s great. Max speed on a flat lake is about 4 mph. I haven?t tried to see what it will do against a strong head wind. But I am very pleased. I store motor in cabin, and carry 8lb battery home to charge between trips. It may not work for everyone, but it is perfect for the small lake in Dallas where I sail. Sent from my iPhone Charles Nieman > On Jun 5, 2020, at 12:01 PM, Shawn Boles wrote: > > ?Hi all : > Torqueedo has a remote control if you don't like the tiller control. I > also bought a add-on from them that allows you to charge the battery on the > Travel models from house battery using a 12 volt plug cable. (About $50). > They also make a solar charger for the travel models. > > Cheers, > Shawn > s/v Sweet Baboo > > >> On Fri, Jun 5, 2020, 8:50 AM David Keyes wrote: >> >> Well, I just thought of a problem (about using an electric motor with >> heavy batteries installed onboard). My lake (Lake Travis, Austin, Texas) >> has large fluctuations?up to 80 or 90 feet?in dry weather when the City of >> Austin and many downstream water users (rice farmers and downstream >> industries all the way to the Gulf of Mexico) take water out of the lake. >> Some summers, when the lake gets very low, our marina has to move it?s >> docks out from their cove and into the deeper parts of the lake?where there >> is no shore power. So a motor such as the Torqeedo 2.0 or 4.0 would be >> inoperative for an entire summer. >> >> This would not be a problem with the small, 3 hp equivalent, Torqeedo C >> 1103?its relatively light battery can be carried back and forth, charged at >> home, and snapped back into the engine top, where it looks like part of the >> engine. >> >> Problems: low power and range, rated for sailboats only up to 1-1/2 tons, >> and steering and throttle only by its non-removable tiller. I have Stan?s >> electric motor lift, which is so close to the boat that I would either have >> to replace the lift or devise a bracket or pin at the motor top clear of >> the snap-in battery that sits there. The bracket or pin would permit >> attachment to the cross-arm that pivots from the sailboat?s rudder head. >> Also, this could work only if the motor?s tiller can be rotated to a >> vertical position so as not to hit the transom. >> >> David Keyes >> S/V Arrowhead II (if a name were painted on it, which it isn?t) >> Lake Travis >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >>>> On Jun 4, 2020, at 3:06 AM, jose wrote: >>> >>> ?Hi David, >>> >>> You're quite right; the remote throttle is significantly wider than the >>> tiller, so I doubt there would be a good way to mount it there - though I >>> might lack imagination. In our boat Stan mounted the throttle on the >>> port-side gunwale (see picture attached), so it is within reach while >>> handling the tiller. >>> >>> Jose >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> -- >>> Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ >> From Colealexander at hotmail.com Fri Jun 5 16:48:37 2020 From: Colealexander at hotmail.com (S/V Lark) Date: Fri, 5 Jun 2020 13:48:37 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] An opportunity to become a Rhodie for little down In-Reply-To: References: <1591303857601-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <1591390117301-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Its not just the Rhodes. Sailing forums lament over the cost of rebuilding old boats and the failure of the dreamers to anticipate the cost. At the same time there is continued mocking of 'overpriced' used boats when another boat of the same design and vintage is being sold for pennies on the dollar (because it needs a complete rebuild). I felt no guilt for paying the Stan Premium for a fully reconditioned boat. I could have bought a cheap boat of various designs, spent all my time slowly rebuilding it and thousands on parts and mistakes. The only money I would have saved is four years of routine repairs and maintenance. That budget would have been zero, since the boat would still be in refit. Three cruises and well over a hundred day (or night) sails wouldn't have happened yet. IMO a fully fitted out boat is far more valuable then the market will admit, unless you have free time, skill and a willingness to spend your days working on a boat instead of your dayjob. Best of luck finding a buyer that values solid decks instead of silicone goobered never rebedded fittings. Alex ----- Alex Cole S/V Lark -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From rhodes22dave at gmail.com Fri Jun 5 20:13:02 2020 From: rhodes22dave at gmail.com (David Keyes) Date: Fri, 5 Jun 2020 19:13:02 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Electric Motor In-Reply-To: References: <1591258008703-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <47D32FD1-3B8F-4B4C-9D2A-F33781D8E5F9@gmail.com> Message-ID: Thanks to Charles and Shawn for comments. I have started researching on the internet. The competition (where full time shore power is not assured) is between the Torqeedo Travel 1103 C and ePropulsion Spirit 1.0. Both have remote throttles as an option, in lieu of the tiller models. The ePropulsion appears to be a little heavier and also quieter. Both have snap-in batteries. The ePropulsion?s remote is Bluetooth and does not even require a cable, although it has an optional cable. A question for each is whether it looks like I could hook up the motor to the tiller cross-arm for linking the steering to the sailboat tiller. Obviously, I wouldn?t want to drill a hole in the battery top (to insert a pin?such as was done by Stan for the Yamaha 9.9?s cowl top) or for that matter deface the engine. Both can use remote steering but that involves arms that would not work through a sailboat rudder. David Keyes > On Jun 5, 2020, at 1:13 PM, Charles Nieman wrote: > > I bought the 3hp this spring; it?s great. Max speed on a flat lake is about 4 mph. I haven?t tried to see what it will do against a strong head wind. But I am very pleased. I store motor in cabin, and carry 8lb battery home to charge between trips. It may not work for everyone, but it is perfect for the small lake in Dallas where I sail. > > Sent from my iPhone > > Charles Nieman > > >> On Jun 5, 2020, at 12:01 PM, Shawn Boles wrote: >> >> ?Hi all : >> Torqueedo has a remote control if you don't like the tiller control. I >> also bought a add-on from them that allows you to charge the battery on the >> Travel models from house battery using a 12 volt plug cable. (About $50). >> They also make a solar charger for the travel models. >> >> Cheers, >> Shawn >> s/v Sweet Baboo >> >> >>> On Fri, Jun 5, 2020, 8:50 AM David Keyes wrote: >>> >>> Well, I just thought of a problem (about using an electric motor with >>> heavy batteries installed onboard). My lake (Lake Travis, Austin, Texas) >>> has large fluctuations?up to 80 or 90 feet?in dry weather when the City of >>> Austin and many downstream water users (rice farmers and downstream >>> industries all the way to the Gulf of Mexico) take water out of the lake. >>> Some summers, when the lake gets very low, our marina has to move it?s >>> docks out from their cove and into the deeper parts of the lake?where there >>> is no shore power. So a motor such as the Torqeedo 2.0 or 4.0 would be >>> inoperative for an entire summer. >>> >>> This would not be a problem with the small, 3 hp equivalent, Torqeedo C >>> 1103?its relatively light battery can be carried back and forth, charged at >>> home, and snapped back into the engine top, where it looks like part of the >>> engine. >>> >>> Problems: low power and range, rated for sailboats only up to 1-1/2 tons, >>> and steering and throttle only by its non-removable tiller. I have Stan?s >>> electric motor lift, which is so close to the boat that I would either have >>> to replace the lift or devise a bracket or pin at the motor top clear of >>> the snap-in battery that sits there. The bracket or pin would permit >>> attachment to the cross-arm that pivots from the sailboat?s rudder head. >>> Also, this could work only if the motor?s tiller can be rotated to a >>> vertical position so as not to hit the transom. >>> >>> David Keyes >>> S/V Arrowhead II (if a name were painted on it, which it isn?t) >>> Lake Travis >>> >>> Sent from my iPhone >>> >>>>> On Jun 4, 2020, at 3:06 AM, jose wrote: >>>> >>>> ?Hi David, >>>> >>>> You're quite right; the remote throttle is significantly wider than the >>>> tiller, so I doubt there would be a good way to mount it there - though I >>>> might lack imagination. In our boat Stan mounted the throttle on the >>>> port-side gunwale (see picture attached), so it is within reach while >>>> handling the tiller. >>>> >>>> Jose >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> -- >>>> Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ >>> From rhodes22dave at gmail.com Fri Jun 5 20:52:41 2020 From: rhodes22dave at gmail.com (David Keyes) Date: Fri, 5 Jun 2020 19:52:41 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Electric Motor In-Reply-To: References: <1591258008703-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <47D32FD1-3B8F-4B4C-9D2A-F33781D8E5F9@gmail.com> Message-ID: <5116A975-D140-416D-86A6-E835920291E2@gmail.com> Charles, if you ever want to come down to Austin on a weekend, we can sail together on my R22 (badly in need of maintenance, however)?and after I get a motor to get out of my boat slip. David > On Jun 5, 2020, at 1:13 PM, Charles Nieman wrote: > > I bought the 3hp this spring; it?s great. Max speed on a flat lake is about 4 mph. I haven?t tried to see what it will do against a strong head wind. But I am very pleased. I store motor in cabin, and carry 8lb battery home to charge between trips. It may not work for everyone, but it is perfect for the small lake in Dallas where I sail. > > Sent from my iPhone > > Charles Nieman > > >> On Jun 5, 2020, at 12:01 PM, Shawn Boles wrote: >> >> ?Hi all : >> Torqueedo has a remote control if you don't like the tiller control. I >> also bought a add-on from them that allows you to charge the battery on the >> Travel models from house battery using a 12 volt plug cable. (About $50). >> They also make a solar charger for the travel models. >> >> Cheers, >> Shawn >> s/v Sweet Baboo >> >> >>> On Fri, Jun 5, 2020, 8:50 AM David Keyes wrote: >>> >>> Well, I just thought of a problem (about using an electric motor with >>> heavy batteries installed onboard). My lake (Lake Travis, Austin, Texas) >>> has large fluctuations?up to 80 or 90 feet?in dry weather when the City of >>> Austin and many downstream water users (rice farmers and downstream >>> industries all the way to the Gulf of Mexico) take water out of the lake. >>> Some summers, when the lake gets very low, our marina has to move it?s >>> docks out from their cove and into the deeper parts of the lake?where there >>> is no shore power. So a motor such as the Torqeedo 2.0 or 4.0 would be >>> inoperative for an entire summer. >>> >>> This would not be a problem with the small, 3 hp equivalent, Torqeedo C >>> 1103?its relatively light battery can be carried back and forth, charged at >>> home, and snapped back into the engine top, where it looks like part of the >>> engine. >>> >>> Problems: low power and range, rated for sailboats only up to 1-1/2 tons, >>> and steering and throttle only by its non-removable tiller. I have Stan?s >>> electric motor lift, which is so close to the boat that I would either have >>> to replace the lift or devise a bracket or pin at the motor top clear of >>> the snap-in battery that sits there. The bracket or pin would permit >>> attachment to the cross-arm that pivots from the sailboat?s rudder head. >>> Also, this could work only if the motor?s tiller can be rotated to a >>> vertical position so as not to hit the transom. >>> >>> David Keyes >>> S/V Arrowhead II (if a name were painted on it, which it isn?t) >>> Lake Travis >>> >>> Sent from my iPhone >>> >>>>> On Jun 4, 2020, at 3:06 AM, jose wrote: >>>> >>>> ?Hi David, >>>> >>>> You're quite right; the remote throttle is significantly wider than the >>>> tiller, so I doubt there would be a good way to mount it there - though I >>>> might lack imagination. In our boat Stan mounted the throttle on the >>>> port-side gunwale (see picture attached), so it is within reach while >>>> handling the tiller. >>>> >>>> Jose >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> -- >>>> Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ >>> From sea20 at verizon.net Sat Jun 6 07:27:03 2020 From: sea20 at verizon.net (Scott Andrews) Date: Sat, 6 Jun 2020 07:27:03 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] An opportunity to become a Rhodie for little down In-Reply-To: <1591390117301-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1591390117301-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <6CF43069-207D-4BC4-B092-EC978E975FC5@verizon.net> Well said. Sent from my iPhone > On Jun 5, 2020, at 4:48 PM, S/V Lark wrote: > > ?Its not just the Rhodes. > > Sailing forums lament over the cost of rebuilding old boats and the failure > of the dreamers to anticipate the cost. At the same time there is > continued mocking of 'overpriced' used boats when another boat of the same > design and vintage is being sold for pennies on the dollar (because it needs > a complete rebuild). > > I felt no guilt for paying the Stan Premium for a fully reconditioned boat. > I could have bought a cheap boat of various designs, spent all my time > slowly rebuilding it and thousands on parts and mistakes. The only money I > would have saved is four years of routine repairs and maintenance. That > budget would have been zero, since the boat would still be in refit. Three > cruises and well over a hundred day (or night) sails wouldn't have happened > yet. IMO a fully fitted out boat is far more valuable then the market will > admit, unless you have free time, skill and a willingness to spend your days > working on a boat instead of your dayjob. > > Best of luck finding a buyer that values solid decks instead of silicone > goobered never rebedded fittings. > > Alex > > > > > ----- > Alex Cole > S/V Lark > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From ric at stottarchitecture.com Sat Jun 6 08:43:33 2020 From: ric at stottarchitecture.com (Ric Stott) Date: Sat, 6 Jun 2020 08:43:33 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] An opportunity to become a Rhodie for little down In-Reply-To: <6CF43069-207D-4BC4-B092-EC978E975FC5@verizon.net> References: <6CF43069-207D-4BC4-B092-EC978E975FC5@verizon.net> Message-ID: If one buys a boat that needs work, two things must be true. 1. One must enjoy the challenge of the task at hand. 2. One must have the time, space, tools and talents to make it happen. I agree that you can?t substitute sailing time for repair time, but there is nothing more gratifying than sailing a boat that you brought back to life. Ric Dadventure HBNY Sent from my iPhone > On Jun 6, 2020, at 7:27 AM, Scott Andrews via Rhodes22-list wrote: > > ?Well said. > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Jun 5, 2020, at 4:48 PM, S/V Lark wrote: >> >> ?Its not just the Rhodes. >> >> Sailing forums lament over the cost of rebuilding old boats and the failure >> of the dreamers to anticipate the cost. At the same time there is >> continued mocking of 'overpriced' used boats when another boat of the same >> design and vintage is being sold for pennies on the dollar (because it needs >> a complete rebuild). >> >> I felt no guilt for paying the Stan Premium for a fully reconditioned boat. >> I could have bought a cheap boat of various designs, spent all my time >> slowly rebuilding it and thousands on parts and mistakes. The only money I >> would have saved is four years of routine repairs and maintenance. That >> budget would have been zero, since the boat would still be in refit. Three >> cruises and well over a hundred day (or night) sails wouldn't have happened >> yet. IMO a fully fitted out boat is far more valuable then the market will >> admit, unless you have free time, skill and a willingness to spend your days >> working on a boat instead of your dayjob. >> >> Best of luck finding a buyer that values solid decks instead of silicone >> goobered never rebedded fittings. >> >> Alex >> >> >> >> >> ----- >> Alex Cole >> S/V Lark >> -- >> Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > From gstewart8 at cogeco.ca Sat Jun 6 16:57:50 2020 From: gstewart8 at cogeco.ca (Graham Stewart) Date: Sat, 6 Jun 2020 16:57:50 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] An opportunity to become a Rhodie for little down In-Reply-To: References: <6CF43069-207D-4BC4-B092-EC978E975FC5@verizon.net> Message-ID: <00a301d63c45$26dc4c70$7494e550$@ca> You don't restore a boat in order to have a boat. You restore a boat because you want t restore a boat. The pleasure is in the process. Otherwise it will never get completed - the worst of all outcomes. Graham Stewart Agile, Rodes 22, 1976 Kingston Ontario -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Ric Stott Sent: Saturday, June 6, 2020 8:44 AM To: Scott Andrews; The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] An opportunity to become a Rhodie for little down If one buys a boat that needs work, two things must be true. 1. One must enjoy the challenge of the task at hand. 2. One must have the time, space, tools and talents to make it happen. I agree that you can?t substitute sailing time for repair time, but there is nothing more gratifying than sailing a boat that you brought back to life. Ric Dadventure HBNY Sent from my iPhone > On Jun 6, 2020, at 7:27 AM, Scott Andrews via Rhodes22-list wrote: > > ?Well said. > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Jun 5, 2020, at 4:48 PM, S/V Lark wrote: >> >> ?Its not just the Rhodes. >> >> Sailing forums lament over the cost of rebuilding old boats and the failure >> of the dreamers to anticipate the cost. At the same time there is >> continued mocking of 'overpriced' used boats when another boat of the same >> design and vintage is being sold for pennies on the dollar (because it needs >> a complete rebuild). >> >> I felt no guilt for paying the Stan Premium for a fully reconditioned boat. >> I could have bought a cheap boat of various designs, spent all my time >> slowly rebuilding it and thousands on parts and mistakes. The only money I >> would have saved is four years of routine repairs and maintenance. That >> budget would have been zero, since the boat would still be in refit. Three >> cruises and well over a hundred day (or night) sails wouldn't have happened >> yet. IMO a fully fitted out boat is far more valuable then the market will >> admit, unless you have free time, skill and a willingness to spend your days >> working on a boat instead of your dayjob. >> >> Best of luck finding a buyer that values solid decks instead of silicone >> goobered never rebedded fittings. >> >> Alex >> >> >> >> >> ----- >> Alex Cole >> S/V Lark >> -- >> Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > From bferguson at jcu.edu Sat Jun 6 17:07:04 2020 From: bferguson at jcu.edu (NewIn76) Date: Sat, 6 Jun 2020 14:07:04 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] An opportunity to become a Rhodie for little down In-Reply-To: <00a301d63c45$26dc4c70$7494e550$@ca> References: <1591303857601-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1591390117301-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <6CF43069-207D-4BC4-B092-EC978E975FC5@verizon.net> <00a301d63c45$26dc4c70$7494e550$@ca> Message-ID: <1591477624206-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Wow. I wasn't quite expecting the responses. Everyone is putting me back on the fence about my decision. I guess I need to go back and re-think some more. I agree with the camp that says fixing it up increases the personal value once it goes back into the water. I'm also firmly of the opinion this is a stronger built boat than my Catalina, Seaward, or Com-Pac. Thanks for the input. I might need to put up more discussion topics and my anxieties will go down. ----- Brian 1976 Rhodes 22 Cleveland -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From bferguson at jcu.edu Sat Jun 6 17:44:42 2020 From: bferguson at jcu.edu (NewIn76) Date: Sat, 6 Jun 2020 14:44:42 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer re-Axle Plan Message-ID: <1591479882036-0.post@n5.nabble.com> All, I know this is really boat question, but this is a knowledge gap for me. All my other trailers have been pretty standard. My first two boats had brand new Road King trailers underneath them. Below is a picture of the current configuration of my axle. It's definitely getting replaced. I plan to use frame sliders after I cut off the front spring hanger. Should I still go with a dropped axle? I assume spring seats should be mounted on the bottom of the axle too? 5.2K axle with 4k springs? Lots of questions, sorry. To add insult to injury, I only discovered six months after buying it that the tire on the port side is 8-14.5, starboard side is 7-14.5. I was decided on a new axle before that though because I wanted a conventional style hub. IMG_5037.JPG ----- Brian 1976 Rhodes 22 Cleveland -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From bferguson at jcu.edu Sat Jun 6 17:45:56 2020 From: bferguson at jcu.edu (NewIn76) Date: Sat, 6 Jun 2020 14:45:56 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer re-Axle Plan In-Reply-To: <1591479882036-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1591479882036-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <1591479956949-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Sorry. Meant to say "this isn't really a boat question..." ----- Brian 1976 Rhodes 22 Cleveland -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From lgioia at yahoo.com Sat Jun 6 20:00:43 2020 From: lgioia at yahoo.com (Larry Gioia) Date: Sat, 6 Jun 2020 20:00:43 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] An opportunity to become a Rhodie for little down In-Reply-To: <1591477624206-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1591477624206-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <695EED02-564B-4E1E-B760-7D3814351C1E@yahoo.com> I?m guessing there?s no one on this list who wouldn?t buy that boat if they had a spot & need for it. I just bought that ?86 R22 in St Pete in March for $4,800 - I figured it had: - a trailer - I don?t have one for my 2014 R22 here at Lake George NY so that?d be handy for either. I store the 2014 under a covered dock on a stand that Stan cut from a trailer, it sits on 6 4x6s 13? long spanning the 2 docks. The trailer needed new wheels & tires - I got Goodyear of the size & type recommended on the blog here - 3 wheels & tires were $750. I assume the trailer?s now worth at least $1,500 so net value $750. - a 2006 or so Suzuki 6hp 4-stroke which starts 2nd pull & runs like a top. Gotta be worth $600. - sails in great shape. I suspect they?re not original but the owner passed away & his wife donated it to the Sea Scouts who fixed it up some & put it on Craigslist, so the history has been lost. - hull, rigging all in great shape. So $4,800 less (750 + 600 for trailer & motor) means the boat & sails cost $3,450. Let?s see now, 7 months a year I?ll sail it for about 2 hrs a few afternoons a week for the next 15 years. I?m 62 - and if I?m as lucky as Stan I?ll sail it for the next 30 years :) Seemed like a pretty good deal. I drove from Tampa to Lake George Wed (18 hrs) & Thurs (3.5 hrs). If driving on 81 thru the Shenandoah Valley doesn?t make you want to be a farmer, nothing will. https://youtu.be/JJ2GB2nLyFA Larry ?14 R22 Language of Love Lake George NY ?86 R22 Keystone Lake, Odessa FL > On Jun 6, 2020, at 5:07 PM, NewIn76 via Rhodes22-list wrote: > > ?Wow. I wasn't quite expecting the responses. Everyone is putting me back on > the fence about my decision. I guess I need to go back and re-think some > more. I agree with the camp that says fixing it up increases the personal > value once it goes back into the water. I'm also firmly of the opinion this > is a stronger built boat than my Catalina, Seaward, or Com-Pac. Thanks for > the input. I might need to put up more discussion topics and my anxieties > will go down. > > > > ----- > Brian > 1976 Rhodes 22 > Cleveland > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From mark at whipplefamily.com Sat Jun 6 21:09:29 2020 From: mark at whipplefamily.com (Mark Whipple) Date: Sat, 6 Jun 2020 21:09:29 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] An opportunity to become a Rhodie for little down In-Reply-To: <695EED02-564B-4E1E-B760-7D3814351C1E@yahoo.com> References: <1591477624206-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <695EED02-564B-4E1E-B760-7D3814351C1E@yahoo.com> Message-ID: It's always less expensive to buy renovations done by someone else. That said, those renovations may or may not be to your liking. There is a learning curve and satisfaction to renovating your own boat. Kind of like with real estate, it seems best to buy the boat in the best condition you can afford if it checks enough of the boxes. There will always be work to do on the boat, but it costs less in time and money if the boat is newer and/or in better condition. I've spent many hours on boat renovation projects and at some point you just need to go sailing. You also have to be willing to not strive for perfection - unless of course you have unlimited time and money. I've always tried to own boats that were capable of going sailing, but still needed work (since that's what I could afford). Brian, if you think your boat is only going to get you $1200 I think you're better off keeping the boat. The trailer alone has to be worth that much. Hang on to it for a while; circumstances change. The least expensive boat is the boat you already own. That is, unless you're paying someone else to maintain it. Mark Whipple Boston, MA R22 Tiny Dancer Nimble 30 FOR SALE ComPac 16 FOR SALE On Sat, Jun 6, 2020 at 8:00 PM Larry Gioia via Rhodes22-list < rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote: > I?m guessing there?s no one on this list who wouldn?t buy that boat if > they had a spot & need for it. > > I just bought that ?86 R22 in St Pete in March for $4,800 - I figured it > had: > > - a trailer - I don?t have one for my 2014 R22 here at Lake George NY so > that?d be handy for either. I store the 2014 under a covered dock on a > stand that Stan cut from a trailer, it sits on 6 4x6s 13? long spanning the > 2 docks. The trailer needed new wheels & tires - I got Goodyear of the size > & type recommended on the blog here - 3 wheels & tires were $750. I assume > the trailer?s now worth at least $1,500 so net value $750. > > - a 2006 or so Suzuki 6hp 4-stroke which starts 2nd pull & runs like a > top. Gotta be worth $600. > > - sails in great shape. I suspect they?re not original but the owner > passed away & his wife donated it to the Sea Scouts who fixed it up some & > put it on Craigslist, so the history has been lost. > > - hull, rigging all in great shape. So $4,800 less (750 + 600 for trailer > & motor) means the boat & sails cost $3,450. > > Let?s see now, 7 months a year I?ll sail it for about 2 hrs a few > afternoons a week for the next 15 years. I?m 62 - and if I?m as lucky as > Stan I?ll sail it for the next 30 years :) > > Seemed like a pretty good deal. > > I drove from Tampa to Lake George Wed (18 hrs) & Thurs (3.5 hrs). If > driving on 81 thru the Shenandoah Valley doesn?t make you want to be a > farmer, nothing will. > > https://youtu.be/JJ2GB2nLyFA > > Larry > ?14 R22 Language of Love > Lake George NY > ?86 R22 > Keystone Lake, Odessa FL > > > > On Jun 6, 2020, at 5:07 PM, NewIn76 via Rhodes22-list < > rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote: > > > > ?Wow. I wasn't quite expecting the responses. Everyone is putting me > back on > > the fence about my decision. I guess I need to go back and re-think some > > more. I agree with the camp that says fixing it up increases the > personal > > value once it goes back into the water. I'm also firmly of the opinion > this > > is a stronger built boat than my Catalina, Seaward, or Com-Pac. Thanks > for > > the input. I might need to put up more discussion topics and my > anxieties > > will go down. > > > > > > > > ----- > > Brian > > 1976 Rhodes 22 > > Cleveland > > -- > > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > From stan at generalboats.com Sun Jun 7 10:48:31 2020 From: stan at generalboats.com (stan) Date: Sun, 7 Jun 2020 10:48:31 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Electric Motor In-Reply-To: <5116A975-D140-416D-86A6-E835920291E2@gmail.com> References: <1591258008703-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <47D32FD1-3B8F-4B4C-9D2A-F33781D8E5F9@gmail.com> <5116A975-D140-416D-86A6-E835920291E2@gmail.com> Message-ID: David, the one we have is in its carton packed like it was never removed but I lifted out one packing panel and was able to feel the prop edge and my guess is it has been used. The carton has two model #s on it so my guess here is that this carton works for both models and I don't know which one this is: ??? ??? TRAVEL? 503 L???? TRAVEL 1003 L Without my taking it out do you know the difference between these two models.? I assume they are both 3 HP, Long Shaft. Should we rule this motor out for your quest? stan On 6/5/20 8:52 PM, David Keyes wrote: > Charles, if you ever want to come down to Austin on a weekend, we can sail together on my R22 (badly in need of maintenance, however)?and after I get a motor to get out of my boat slip. > David > >> On Jun 5, 2020, at 1:13 PM, Charles Nieman wrote: >> >> I bought the 3hp this spring; it?s great. Max speed on a flat lake is about 4 mph. I haven?t tried to see what it will do against a strong head wind. But I am very pleased. I store motor in cabin, and carry 8lb battery home to charge between trips. It may not work for everyone, but it is perfect for the small lake in Dallas where I sail. >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> Charles Nieman >> >> >>> On Jun 5, 2020, at 12:01 PM, Shawn Boles wrote: >>> >>> ?Hi all : >>> Torqueedo has a remote control if you don't like the tiller control. I >>> also bought a add-on from them that allows you to charge the battery on the >>> Travel models from house battery using a 12 volt plug cable. (About $50). >>> They also make a solar charger for the travel models. >>> >>> Cheers, >>> Shawn >>> s/v Sweet Baboo >>> >>> >>>> On Fri, Jun 5, 2020, 8:50 AM David Keyes wrote: >>>> >>>> Well, I just thought of a problem (about using an electric motor with >>>> heavy batteries installed onboard). My lake (Lake Travis, Austin, Texas) >>>> has large fluctuations?up to 80 or 90 feet?in dry weather when the City of >>>> Austin and many downstream water users (rice farmers and downstream >>>> industries all the way to the Gulf of Mexico) take water out of the lake. >>>> Some summers, when the lake gets very low, our marina has to move it?s >>>> docks out from their cove and into the deeper parts of the lake?where there >>>> is no shore power. So a motor such as the Torqeedo 2.0 or 4.0 would be >>>> inoperative for an entire summer. >>>> >>>> This would not be a problem with the small, 3 hp equivalent, Torqeedo C >>>> 1103?its relatively light battery can be carried back and forth, charged at >>>> home, and snapped back into the engine top, where it looks like part of the >>>> engine. >>>> >>>> Problems: low power and range, rated for sailboats only up to 1-1/2 tons, >>>> and steering and throttle only by its non-removable tiller. I have Stan?s >>>> electric motor lift, which is so close to the boat that I would either have >>>> to replace the lift or devise a bracket or pin at the motor top clear of >>>> the snap-in battery that sits there. The bracket or pin would permit >>>> attachment to the cross-arm that pivots from the sailboat?s rudder head. >>>> Also, this could work only if the motor?s tiller can be rotated to a >>>> vertical position so as not to hit the transom. >>>> >>>> David Keyes >>>> S/V Arrowhead II (if a name were painted on it, which it isn?t) >>>> Lake Travis >>>> >>>> Sent from my iPhone >>>> >>>>>> On Jun 4, 2020, at 3:06 AM, jose wrote: >>>>> ?Hi David, >>>>> >>>>> You're quite right; the remote throttle is significantly wider than the >>>>> tiller, so I doubt there would be a good way to mount it there - though I >>>>> might lack imagination. In our boat Stan mounted the throttle on the >>>>> port-side gunwale (see picture attached), so it is within reach while >>>>> handling the tiller. >>>>> >>>>> Jose >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> -- >>>>> Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > From rhodes22dave at gmail.com Sun Jun 7 11:18:28 2020 From: rhodes22dave at gmail.com (David Keyes) Date: Sun, 7 Jun 2020 10:18:28 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Electric Motor In-Reply-To: References: <1591258008703-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <47D32FD1-3B8F-4B4C-9D2A-F33781D8E5F9@gmail.com> Message-ID: <302F74C7-D1AB-468A-9188-48B59DD21377@gmail.com> From internet research, it appears to me that the best small electric outboard alternatives (i.e., the ones with portable, snap-in batteries that can be charged at home) are the Torqeedo Travel 1103 (3hp) and the ePropulsion Spirit Plus (3hp). The Spirit Plus replaces the Spirit 1.0 and has a larger battery, but will not be available in the U.S. until the second half of August. I might prefer the Spirit Plus, but I need a motor now to replace my Yamaha 9.9 (which has broken remote control cables adapted to the R22 tiller controls and that are no longer available). So I probably will order an 1103 in the next day or two unless I read something on this board or from Stan or that I find from further internet research that leaves me looking for a Plan Two. I will also buy the optional, portable solar panels that come with either motor. They can charge the battery fully if given enough time, but in addition they can provide some supplemental charging during actual use, so that the range will be increased. I will probably buy a second, snap-in battery to have on hand for occasionally needing more range in lieu of being towed or having a long swim home. Both of these motors have optional, remote control throttles., and I will buy one. Incidentally, the 1103 improves on the 1003 by using direct drive instead of the reduction gears that produced a high-pitched whining sound. This improvement may have been to compete with the direct drive ePropulsion motors. I plan initially to lock the new electric motor in the straight-forward position and rely on my rudder for steering. I have to make a hard turn to port in close quarters in order to enter my boat slip. If necessary, I will find a way to link the sailboat tiller?s cross-arm to the handle on the Torqeedo snap-in battery so as to link the motor and rudder in order to turn more sharply. I think that these small motors are a good choice for sailors who either (1) are looking for a smaller, quieter engine that does not use gas and is conveniently light and portable, or (2) would prefer a larger electric engine to deal with occasional adverse weather or tidal current conditions, but who do not have assured shore power at all times available for battery charging, and who do not have confidence in the ability of solar panels (portable or that could be added installations) to fully charge the electric motor battery or batteries between uses. I fall into category (2). Every five or ten years, my lake gets so low the the marina docks have to be floated way out into the lake, where there is no shore power, and this condition would be likely to remain for much of a summer or for two summers. About five years ago, we had to be transported in a small tender out to the floating docks for two consecutive years, and for that period, there was no shore power available to the docks. Because I would prefer more power, I also looked at gas engines in the range of 5hp to 8hp, but so far I have not found one with a remote throttle arrangement that would be convenient for the R22. Instead, their remote throttles are the typical ones for water-ski boats or fishing boats. David Keyes S/V Arrowhead II (if it had a name plate or painted on the boat, but it doesn?t) Lake Travis > On Jun 5, 2020, at 1:13 PM, Charles Nieman wrote: > > I bought the 3hp this spring; it?s great. Max speed on a flat lake is about 4 mph. I haven?t tried to see what it will do against a strong head wind. But I am very pleased. I store motor in cabin, and carry 8lb battery home to charge between trips. It may not work for everyone, but it is perfect for the small lake in Dallas where I sail. > > Sent from my iPhone > > Charles Nieman > > >> On Jun 5, 2020, at 12:01 PM, Shawn Boles wrote: >> >> ?Hi all : >> Torqueedo has a remote control if you don't like the tiller control. I >> also bought a add-on from them that allows you to charge the battery on the >> Travel models from house battery using a 12 volt plug cable. (About $50). >> They also make a solar charger for the travel models. >> >> Cheers, >> Shawn >> s/v Sweet Baboo >> >> >>> On Fri, Jun 5, 2020, 8:50 AM David Keyes wrote: >>> >>> Well, I just thought of a problem (about using an electric motor with >>> heavy batteries installed onboard). My lake (Lake Travis, Austin, Texas) >>> has large fluctuations?up to 80 or 90 feet?in dry weather when the City of >>> Austin and many downstream water users (rice farmers and downstream >>> industries all the way to the Gulf of Mexico) take water out of the lake. >>> Some summers, when the lake gets very low, our marina has to move it?s >>> docks out from their cove and into the deeper parts of the lake?where there >>> is no shore power. So a motor such as the Torqeedo 2.0 or 4.0 would be >>> inoperative for an entire summer. >>> >>> This would not be a problem with the small, 3 hp equivalent, Torqeedo C >>> 1103?its relatively light battery can be carried back and forth, charged at >>> home, and snapped back into the engine top, where it looks like part of the >>> engine. >>> >>> Problems: low power and range, rated for sailboats only up to 1-1/2 tons, >>> and steering and throttle only by its non-removable tiller. I have Stan?s >>> electric motor lift, which is so close to the boat that I would either have >>> to replace the lift or devise a bracket or pin at the motor top clear of >>> the snap-in battery that sits there. The bracket or pin would permit >>> attachment to the cross-arm that pivots from the sailboat?s rudder head. >>> Also, this could work only if the motor?s tiller can be rotated to a >>> vertical position so as not to hit the transom. >>> >>> David Keyes >>> S/V Arrowhead II (if a name were painted on it, which it isn?t) >>> Lake Travis >>> >>> Sent from my iPhone >>> >>>>> On Jun 4, 2020, at 3:06 AM, jose wrote: >>>> >>>> ?Hi David, >>>> >>>> You're quite right; the remote throttle is significantly wider than the >>>> tiller, so I doubt there would be a good way to mount it there - though I >>>> might lack imagination. In our boat Stan mounted the throttle on the >>>> port-side gunwale (see picture attached), so it is within reach while >>>> handling the tiller. >>>> >>>> Jose >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> -- >>>> Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ >>> From rhodes22dave at gmail.com Sun Jun 7 11:48:09 2020 From: rhodes22dave at gmail.com (David Keyes) Date: Sun, 7 Jun 2020 10:48:09 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Electric Motor In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <6E03E310-4262-472E-A2A8-A5CCC9E3C301@gmail.com> Stan, Both the 503 L and 1003 L are long shaft. The 1003 has more power (equivalent to 3hp) and range. The 503 (1.5 hp) has smaller battery. Both could have an optional remote throttle attached in lieu of the tiller. From the photos on the Torqeedo website, the model should be painted on the tiller. But I prefer the newer 1103 which has a direct drive in lieu of reduction gears. This eliminates the high-pitched whining sound. So we can eliminate your motor from my search. Thanks. David Sent from my iPad > On Jun 7, 2020, at 9:48 AM, stan wrote: > > ? > David, the one we have is in its carton packed like it was never removed but I lifted out one packing panel and was able to feel the prop edge and my guess is it has been used. > > The carton has two model #s on it so my guess here is that this carton works for both models and I don't know which one this is: > > TRAVEL 503 L TRAVEL 1003 L > > Without my taking it out do you know the difference between these two models. I assume they are both 3 HP, Long Shaft. > > Should we rule this motor out for your quest? > > stan > > >> On 6/5/20 8:52 PM, David Keyes wrote: >> Charles, if you ever want to come down to Austin on a weekend, we can sail together on my R22 (badly in need of maintenance, however)?and after I get a motor to get out of my boat slip. >> David >> >>>> On Jun 5, 2020, at 1:13 PM, Charles Nieman wrote: >>> >>> I bought the 3hp this spring; it?s great. Max speed on a flat lake is about 4 mph. I haven?t tried to see what it will do against a strong head wind. But I am very pleased. I store motor in cabin, and carry 8lb battery home to charge between trips. It may not work for everyone, but it is perfect for the small lake in Dallas where I sail. >>> >>> Sent from my iPhone >>> >>> Charles Nieman >>> >>> >>>> On Jun 5, 2020, at 12:01 PM, Shawn Boles wrote: >>>> >>>> ?Hi all : >>>> Torqueedo has a remote control if you don't like the tiller control. I >>>> also bought a add-on from them that allows you to charge the battery on the >>>> Travel models from house battery using a 12 volt plug cable. (About $50). >>>> They also make a solar charger for the travel models. >>>> >>>> Cheers, >>>> Shawn >>>> s/v Sweet Baboo >>>> >>>> >>>>> On Fri, Jun 5, 2020, 8:50 AM David Keyes wrote: >>>>> >>>>> Well, I just thought of a problem (about using an electric motor with >>>>> heavy batteries installed onboard). My lake (Lake Travis, Austin, Texas) >>>>> has large fluctuations?up to 80 or 90 feet?in dry weather when the City of >>>>> Austin and many downstream water users (rice farmers and downstream >>>>> industries all the way to the Gulf of Mexico) take water out of the lake. >>>>> Some summers, when the lake gets very low, our marina has to move it?s >>>>> docks out from their cove and into the deeper parts of the lake?where there >>>>> is no shore power. So a motor such as the Torqeedo 2.0 or 4.0 would be >>>>> inoperative for an entire summer. >>>>> >>>>> This would not be a problem with the small, 3 hp equivalent, Torqeedo C >>>>> 1103?its relatively light battery can be carried back and forth, charged at >>>>> home, and snapped back into the engine top, where it looks like part of the >>>>> engine. >>>>> >>>>> Problems: low power and range, rated for sailboats only up to 1-1/2 tons, >>>>> and steering and throttle only by its non-removable tiller. I have Stan?s >>>>> electric motor lift, which is so close to the boat that I would either have >>>>> to replace the lift or devise a bracket or pin at the motor top clear of >>>>> the snap-in battery that sits there. The bracket or pin would permit >>>>> attachment to the cross-arm that pivots from the sailboat?s rudder head. >>>>> Also, this could work only if the motor?s tiller can be rotated to a >>>>> vertical position so as not to hit the transom. >>>>> >>>>> David Keyes >>>>> S/V Arrowhead II (if a name were painted on it, which it isn?t) >>>>> Lake Travis >>>>> >>>>> Sent from my iPhone >>>>> >>>>>>> On Jun 4, 2020, at 3:06 AM, jose wrote: >>>>>> ?Hi David, >>>>>> >>>>>> You're quite right; the remote throttle is significantly wider than the >>>>>> tiller, so I doubt there would be a good way to mount it there - though I >>>>>> might lack imagination. In our boat Stan mounted the throttle on the >>>>>> port-side gunwale (see picture attached), so it is within reach while >>>>>> handling the tiller. >>>>>> >>>>>> Jose >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> -- >>>>>> Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ >> > From rhodes22dave at gmail.com Sun Jun 7 12:51:11 2020 From: rhodes22dave at gmail.com (David Keyes) Date: Sun, 7 Jun 2020 11:51:11 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Electric Motor In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <126E7CDE-4BE3-45E2-AFE7-D07CE6295094@gmail.com> From internet research, it appears to me that the best small electric outboard alternatives (i.e., the ones with portable, snap-in batteries that can be charged at home) are the Torqeedo Travel 1103 (3hp) and the ePropulsion Spirit Plus (3hp). The Spirit Plus replaces the Spirit 1.0 and has a larger battery, but will not be available in the U.S. until the second half of August. I might prefer the Spirit Plus, but I need a motor now to replace my Yamaha 9.9 (which has broken remote control cables adapted to the R22 tiller controls and that are no longer available). So I probably will order an 1103 in the next day or two unless I read something on this board or from Stan or that I find from further internet research that leaves me looking for a Plan Two. I will also buy the optional, portable solar panels that come with either motor. They can charge the battery fully if given enough time, but in addition they can provide some supplemental charging during actual use, so that the range will be increased. I will probably buy a second, snap-in battery to have on hand for occasionally needing more range in lieu of being towed or having a long swim home. Both of these motors have optional, remote control throttles., and I will buy one. Incidentally, the 1103 improves on the 1003 by using direct drive instead of the reduction gears that produced a high-pitched whining sound. This improvement may have been to compete with the direct drive ePropulsion motors. I plan initially to lock the new electric motor in the straight-forward position and rely on my rudder for steering. I have to make a hard turn to port in close quarters in order to enter my boat slip. If necessary, I will find a way to link the sailboat tiller?s cross-arm to the handle on the Torqeedo snap-in battery so as to link the motor and rudder in order to turn more sharply. I think that these small motors are a good choice for sailors who either (1) are looking for a smaller, quieter engine that does not use gas and is conveniently light and portable, or (2) would prefer a larger electric engine to deal with occasional adverse weather or tidal current conditions, but who do not have assured shore power at all times available for battery charging, and who do not have confidence in the ability of solar panels (portable or that could be added installations) to fully charge the electric motor battery or batteries between uses. I fall into category (2). Every five or ten years, my lake gets so low the the marina docks have to be floated way out into the lake, where there is no shore power, and this condition would be likely to remain for much of a summer or for two summers. About five years ago, we had to be transported in a small tender out to the floating docks for two consecutive years, and for that period, there was no shore power available to the docks. Because I would prefer more power, I also looked at gas engines in the range of 5hp to 8hp, but so far I have not found one with a remote throttle arrangement that would be convenient for the R22. Instead, their remote throttles are the typical ones for water-ski boats or fishing boats. David Keyes S/V Arrowhead II (if it had a name plate or painted on the boat, but it doesn?t) Lake Travis > On Jun 5, 2020, at 1:13 PM, Charles Nieman wrote: > > I bought the 3hp this spring; it?s great. Max speed on a flat lake is about 4 mph. I haven?t tried to see what it will do against a strong head wind. But I am very pleased. I store motor in cabin, and carry 8lb battery home to charge between trips. It may not work for everyone, but it is perfect for the small lake in Dallas where I sail. > > Sent from my iPhone > > Charles Nieman > > >>> On Jun 5, 2020, at 12:01 PM, Shawn Boles wrote: >> >> ?Hi all : >> Torqueedo has a remote control if you don't like the tiller control. I >> also bought a add-on from them that allows you to charge the battery on the >> Travel models from house battery using a 12 volt plug cable. (About $50). >> They also make a solar charger for the travel models. >> >> Cheers, >> Shawn >> s/v Sweet Baboo >> >> >>>> On Fri, Jun 5, 2020, 8:50 AM David Keyes wrote: >>> >>> Well, I just thought of a problem (about using an electric motor with >>> heavy batteries installed onboard). My lake (Lake Travis, Austin, Texas) >>> has large fluctuations?up to 80 or 90 feet?in dry weather when the City of >>> Austin and many downstream water users (rice farmers and downstream >>> industries all the way to the Gulf of Mexico) take water out of the lake. >>> Some summers, when the lake gets very low, our marina has to move it?s >>> docks out from their cove and into the deeper parts of the lake?where there >>> is no shore power. So a motor such as the Torqeedo 2.0 or 4.0 would be >>> inoperative for an entire summer. >>> >>> This would not be a problem with the small, 3 hp equivalent, Torqeedo C >>> 1103?its relatively light battery can be carried back and forth, charged at >>> home, and snapped back into the engine top, where it looks like part of the >>> engine. >>> >>> Problems: low power and range, rated for sailboats only up to 1-1/2 tons, >>> and steering and throttle only by its non-removable tiller. I have Stan?s >>> electric motor lift, which is so close to the boat that I would either have >>> to replace the lift or devise a bracket or pin at the motor top clear of >>> the snap-in battery that sits there. The bracket or pin would permit >>> attachment to the cross-arm that pivots from the sailboat?s rudder head. >>> Also, this could work only if the motor?s tiller can be rotated to a >>> vertical position so as not to hit the transom. >>> >>> David Keyes >>> S/V Arrowhead II (if a name were painted on it, which it isn?t) >>> Lake Travis >>> >>> Sent from my iPhone >>> >>>>>> On Jun 4, 2020, at 3:06 AM, jose wrote: >>>> >>>> ?Hi David, >>>> >>>> You're quite right; the remote throttle is significantly wider than the >>>> tiller, so I doubt there would be a good way to mount it there - though I >>>> might lack imagination. In our boat Stan mounted the throttle on the >>>> port-side gunwale (see picture attached), so it is within reach while >>>> handling the tiller. >>>> >>>> Jose >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> -- >>>> Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ >>> Sent from my iPhone > On Jun 5, 2020, at 1:13 PM, Charles Nieman wrote: > > ?I bought the 3hp this spring; it?s great. Max speed on a flat lake is about 4 mph. I haven?t tried to see what it will do against a strong head wind. But I am very pleased. I store motor in cabin, and carry 8lb battery home to charge between trips. It may not work for everyone, but it is perfect for the small lake in Dallas where I sail. > > Sent from my iPhone > > Charles Nieman > > >> On Jun 5, 2020, at 12:01 PM, Shawn Boles wrote: >> >> ?Hi all : >> Torqueedo has a remote control if you don't like the tiller control. I >> also bought a add-on from them that allows you to charge the battery on the >> Travel models from house battery using a 12 volt plug cable. (About $50). >> They also make a solar charger for the travel models. >> >> Cheers, >> Shawn >> s/v Sweet Baboo >> >> >>>> On Fri, Jun 5, 2020, 8:50 AM David Keyes wrote: >>> >>> Well, I just thought of a problem (about using an electric motor with >>> heavy batteries installed onboard). My lake (Lake Travis, Austin, Texas) >>> has large fluctuations?up to 80 or 90 feet?in dry weather when the City of >>> Austin and many downstream water users (rice farmers and downstream >>> industries all the way to the Gulf of Mexico) take water out of the lake. >>> Some summers, when the lake gets very low, our marina has to move it?s >>> docks out from their cove and into the deeper parts of the lake?where there >>> is no shore power. So a motor such as the Torqeedo 2.0 or 4.0 would be >>> inoperative for an entire summer. >>> >>> This would not be a problem with the small, 3 hp equivalent, Torqeedo C >>> 1103?its relatively light battery can be carried back and forth, charged at >>> home, and snapped back into the engine top, where it looks like part of the >>> engine. >>> >>> Problems: low power and range, rated for sailboats only up to 1-1/2 tons, >>> and steering and throttle only by its non-removable tiller. I have Stan?s >>> electric motor lift, which is so close to the boat that I would either have >>> to replace the lift or devise a bracket or pin at the motor top clear of >>> the snap-in battery that sits there. The bracket or pin would permit >>> attachment to the cross-arm that pivots from the sailboat?s rudder head. >>> Also, this could work only if the motor?s tiller can be rotated to a >>> vertical position so as not to hit the transom. >>> >>> David Keyes >>> S/V Arrowhead II (if a name were painted on it, which it isn?t) >>> Lake Travis >>> >>> Sent from my iPhone >>> >>>>> On Jun 4, 2020, at 3:06 AM, jose wrote: >>>> >>>> ?Hi David, >>>> >>>> You're quite right; the remote throttle is significantly wider than the >>>> tiller, so I doubt there would be a good way to mount it there - though I >>>> might lack imagination. In our boat Stan mounted the throttle on the >>>> port-side gunwale (see picture attached), so it is within reach while >>>> handling the tiller. >>>> >>>> Jose >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> -- >>>> Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ >>> From rhodes22dave at gmail.com Sun Jun 7 13:03:38 2020 From: rhodes22dave at gmail.com (David Keyes) Date: Sun, 7 Jun 2020 12:03:38 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Electric Motor In-Reply-To: <126E7CDE-4BE3-45E2-AFE7-D07CE6295094@gmail.com> References: <126E7CDE-4BE3-45E2-AFE7-D07CE6295094@gmail.com> Message-ID: <42B15325-472D-4694-8D8A-12C8A4EF556D@gmail.com> Apologies for my duplicate post starting with ?From internet research ?.? One can be deleted. David Keyes From rhodes22dave at gmail.com Sun Jun 7 18:23:01 2020 From: rhodes22dave at gmail.com (David Keyes) Date: Sun, 7 Jun 2020 17:23:01 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Electric Motor In-Reply-To: References: <126E7CDE-4BE3-45E2-AFE7-D07CE6295094@gmail.com> Message-ID: Charles, thanks for all this information. I will order one tomorrow, although the Torqeedo website says delivery dates are expected from June 19. I will order the remote for sure. Initially, I may not mount it but just keep it wired in and where I can reach it. Stan recommends putting the control on the port gunwhale, and I have seen a photo of that. The only problem is that I often am on the starboard side, including when I need to see better as I pull into my boat slip. So I am likely to put it on the starboard side if I have to make a choice. Whichever side, I am sure that I will miss it when I am on the other side. I will probably order the portable solar panel, although mostly it would be to extend range while sailing. We typically go out for just about two hours and then go back home. We have never been out overnight in this boat, in 20 years. Only a few times have we spent as much as a half day on the boat. I also might order a second battery as insurance against running out of battery charge. But your experience sounds great and suggests that a second battery is not necessary for many types of lake sailing. I would guess that we typically are under motor for about two or three miles in any one sail, but it can be double that, depending on weather and wind direction. If I change out my 175 genoa for a 130, it will start to point better. Right now, making significant progress upwind by tacking is almost impossible unless I want to take the trouble to re-route the sheets through the guides inboard. I hate to replace a 175 in good condition, but I will have the mast down to replace our mainsail anyway. It is ripped from wear vertically where the colored trim and batten at the clew meets the white sail. Temporarily, I might be able to patch with sail tape. The Torqeedo website says that the 1003 battery weighs 5.3 kg (11.66 lb), while the weight of the 1103 battery is 6 kg (13.2 lbs)?still easily liftable. If I do buy a second battery, I would need to develop a procedure where I wouldn?t have to carry two batteries back and forth. As I turn into my slip, a port turn is probably harder to make sharply than a starboard turn, given that the motor is located on the port side. I haven?t experimented to find out if that difference is materially noticeable. David Keyes > On Jun 7, 2020, at 2:02 PM, Charles Nieman wrote: > > Thanks for the invite to come sail in Austin. I?ll keep it in mind. > > I understand all your reasoning regarding the electric motor, and I don?t find fault with any of your conclusions. I would make a couple notes based on my recent acquisition of the 1003. The whinnying sound from the gears is to me fairly minimal and I am not displeased with how ?loud? the motor is. Regularly my wife asks ?is the motor running?? > > The solar charger is probably a good investment, especially if you plan on spending several days on the lake. We always come home since we live within 20 minutes of the lake. > > Carrying the battery home to charge between trips is extremely easy, it weights about 6# and charges at the house in a couple hours, if I bother to charge it. I haven?t discharged more than about 30% of the battery on any one day, and have not Curtailed any motoring to save battery. In fact, occasionally have used the motor to power through a tack, since I just leave it down and there isn?t any ?start up? effort involved. > > I too was concerned regarding not being able to ?motor steer? without the linkage setup. I have found to my delight that this motor will move me slow enough that getting into my slip is real easy. The gas outboard wouldn?t idle this slow, so I always came in faster than I wanted and had to use the linkage. Now, if necessary I can reverse direction (yes I did have a reverse on my 5 hp Honda) and backup but I don?t find that needed. I lock the motor in straight and leave it lowered all the way for the entire trip. The tiller can get me through very tight turns. > > The remote throttle is a MUST. The tiller handle throttle is out of reach and the display can?t be seen with the motor lowered enough to operate properly. I didn?t buy originally and had to wait extra to get the remote throttle so I could take it out. Good news is that the display shows your actual speed even when the motor isn?t engaged so it?s like a speedometer while you are sailing and I don?t notice any drain on the battery leaving the unit turned on (not to mention powering through tacks). > > Good luck; Fair Winds > > Sent from my iPhone > > Charles Nieman > 469-955-9842 > > Begin forwarded message: > >> From: David Keyes >> Date: June 7, 2020 at 11:51:17 AM CDT >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Electric Motor >> Reply-To: The Rhodes 22 Email List >> >> ? >> From internet research, it appears to me that the best small electric outboard alternatives (i.e., the ones with portable, snap-in batteries that can be charged at home) are the Torqeedo Travel 1103 (3hp) and the ePropulsion Spirit Plus (3hp). The Spirit Plus replaces the Spirit 1.0 and has a larger battery, but will not be available in the U.S. until the second half of August. I might prefer the Spirit Plus, but I need a motor now to replace my Yamaha 9.9 (which has broken remote control cables adapted to the R22 tiller controls and that are no longer available). So I probably will order an 1103 in the next day or two unless I read something on this board or from Stan or that I find from further internet research that leaves me looking for a Plan Two. >> >> I will also buy the optional, portable solar panels that come with either motor. They can charge the battery fully if given enough time, but in addition they can provide some supplemental charging during actual use, so that the range will be increased. I will probably buy a second, snap-in battery to have on hand for occasionally needing more range in lieu of being towed or having a long swim home. >> >> Both of these motors have optional, remote control throttles., and I will buy one. >> >> Incidentally, the 1103 improves on the 1003 by using direct drive instead of the reduction gears that produced a high-pitched whining sound. This improvement may have been to compete with the direct drive ePropulsion motors. >> >> I plan initially to lock the new electric motor in the straight-forward position and rely on my rudder for steering. I have to make a hard turn to port in close quarters in order to enter my boat slip. If necessary, I will find a way to link the sailboat tiller?s cross-arm to the handle on the Torqeedo snap-in battery so as to link the motor and rudder in order to turn more sharply. >> >> I think that these small motors are a good choice for sailors who either (1) are looking for a smaller, quieter engine that does not use gas and is conveniently light and portable, or (2) would prefer a larger electric engine to deal with occasional adverse weather or tidal current conditions, but who do not have assured shore power at all times available for battery charging, and who do not have confidence in the ability of solar panels (portable or that could be added installations) to fully charge the electric motor battery or batteries between uses. >> >> I fall into category (2). Every five or ten years, my lake gets so low the the marina docks have to be floated way out into the lake, where there is no shore power, and this condition would be likely to remain for much of a summer or for two summers. About five years ago, we had to be transported in a small tender out to the floating docks for two consecutive years, and for that period, there was no shore power available to the docks. >> >> Because I would prefer more power, I also looked at gas engines in the range of 5hp to 8hp, but so far I have not found one with a remote throttle arrangement that would be convenient for the R22. Instead, their remote throttles are the typical ones for water-ski boats or fishing boats. >> >> David Keyes >> S/V Arrowhead II (if it had a name plate or painted on the boat, but it doesn?t) >> Lake Travis >> >>> On Jun 5, 2020, at 1:13 PM, Charles Nieman wrote: >>> >>> I bought the 3hp this spring; it?s great. Max speed on a flat lake is about 4 mph. I haven?t tried to see what it will do against a strong head wind. But I am very pleased. I store motor in cabin, and carry 8lb battery home to charge between trips. It may not work for everyone, but it is perfect for the small lake in Dallas where I sail. >>> >>> Sent from my iPhone >>> >>> Charles Nieman >>> >>> >>>>> On Jun 5, 2020, at 12:01 PM, Shawn Boles wrote: >>>> >>>> ?Hi all : >>>> Torqueedo has a remote control if you don't like the tiller control. I >>>> also bought a add-on from them that allows you to charge the battery on the >>>> Travel models from house battery using a 12 volt plug cable. (About $50). >>>> They also make a solar charger for the travel models. >>>> >>>> Cheers, >>>> Shawn >>>> s/v Sweet Baboo >>>> >>>> >>>>>> On Fri, Jun 5, 2020, 8:50 AM David Keyes wrote: >>>>> >>>>> Well, I just thought of a problem (about using an electric motor with >>>>> heavy batteries installed onboard). My lake (Lake Travis, Austin, Texas) >>>>> has large fluctuations?up to 80 or 90 feet?in dry weather when the City of >>>>> Austin and many downstream water users (rice farmers and downstream >>>>> industries all the way to the Gulf of Mexico) take water out of the lake. >>>>> Some summers, when the lake gets very low, our marina has to move it?s >>>>> docks out from their cove and into the deeper parts of the lake?where there >>>>> is no shore power. So a motor such as the Torqeedo 2.0 or 4.0 would be >>>>> inoperative for an entire summer. >>>>> >>>>> This would not be a problem with the small, 3 hp equivalent, Torqeedo C >>>>> 1103?its relatively light battery can be carried back and forth, charged at >>>>> home, and snapped back into the engine top, where it looks like part of the >>>>> engine. >>>>> >>>>> Problems: low power and range, rated for sailboats only up to 1-1/2 tons, >>>>> and steering and throttle only by its non-removable tiller. I have Stan?s >>>>> electric motor lift, which is so close to the boat that I would either have >>>>> to replace the lift or devise a bracket or pin at the motor top clear of >>>>> the snap-in battery that sits there. The bracket or pin would permit >>>>> attachment to the cross-arm that pivots from the sailboat?s rudder head. >>>>> Also, this could work only if the motor?s tiller can be rotated to a >>>>> vertical position so as not to hit the transom. >>>>> >>>>> David Keyes >>>>> S/V Arrowhead II (if a name were painted on it, which it isn?t) >>>>> Lake Travis >>>>> >>>>> Sent from my iPhone >>>>> >>>>>>>> On Jun 4, 2020, at 3:06 AM, jose wrote: >>>>>> >>>>>> ?Hi David, >>>>>> >>>>>> You're quite right; the remote throttle is significantly wider than the >>>>>> tiller, so I doubt there would be a good way to mount it there - though I >>>>>> might lack imagination. In our boat Stan mounted the throttle on the >>>>>> port-side gunwale (see picture attached), so it is within reach while >>>>>> handling the tiller. >>>>>> >>>>>> Jose >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> -- >>>>>> Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ >>>>> >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >>> On Jun 5, 2020, at 1:13 PM, Charles Nieman wrote: >>> >>> ?I bought the 3hp this spring; it?s great. Max speed on a flat lake is about 4 mph. I haven?t tried to see what it will do against a strong head wind. But I am very pleased. I store motor in cabin, and carry 8lb battery home to charge between trips. It may not work for everyone, but it is perfect for the small lake in Dallas where I sail. >>> >>> Sent from my iPhone >>> >>> Charles Nieman >>> >>> >>>> On Jun 5, 2020, at 12:01 PM, Shawn Boles wrote: >>>> >>>> ?Hi all : >>>> Torqueedo has a remote control if you don't like the tiller control. I >>>> also bought a add-on from them that allows you to charge the battery on the >>>> Travel models from house battery using a 12 volt plug cable. (About $50). >>>> They also make a solar charger for the travel models. >>>> >>>> Cheers, >>>> Shawn >>>> s/v Sweet Baboo >>>> >>>> >>>>>> On Fri, Jun 5, 2020, 8:50 AM David Keyes wrote: >>>>> >>>>> Well, I just thought of a problem (about using an electric motor with >>>>> heavy batteries installed onboard). My lake (Lake Travis, Austin, Texas) >>>>> has large fluctuations?up to 80 or 90 feet?in dry weather when the City of >>>>> Austin and many downstream water users (rice farmers and downstream >>>>> industries all the way to the Gulf of Mexico) take water out of the lake. >>>>> Some summers, when the lake gets very low, our marina has to move it?s >>>>> docks out from their cove and into the deeper parts of the lake?where there >>>>> is no shore power. So a motor such as the Torqeedo 2.0 or 4.0 would be >>>>> inoperative for an entire summer. >>>>> >>>>> This would not be a problem with the small, 3 hp equivalent, Torqeedo C >>>>> 1103?its relatively light battery can be carried back and forth, charged at >>>>> home, and snapped back into the engine top, where it looks like part of the >>>>> engine. >>>>> >>>>> Problems: low power and range, rated for sailboats only up to 1-1/2 tons, >>>>> and steering and throttle only by its non-removable tiller. I have Stan?s >>>>> electric motor lift, which is so close to the boat that I would either have >>>>> to replace the lift or devise a bracket or pin at the motor top clear of >>>>> the snap-in battery that sits there. The bracket or pin would permit >>>>> attachment to the cross-arm that pivots from the sailboat?s rudder head. >>>>> Also, this could work only if the motor?s tiller can be rotated to a >>>>> vertical position so as not to hit the transom. >>>>> >>>>> David Keyes >>>>> S/V Arrowhead II (if a name were painted on it, which it isn?t) >>>>> Lake Travis >>>>> >>>>> Sent from my iPhone >>>>> >>>>>>> On Jun 4, 2020, at 3:06 AM, jose wrote: >>>>>> >>>>>> ?Hi David, >>>>>> >>>>>> You're quite right; the remote throttle is significantly wider than the >>>>>> tiller, so I doubt there would be a good way to mount it there - though I >>>>>> might lack imagination. In our boat Stan mounted the throttle on the >>>>>> port-side gunwale (see picture attached), so it is within reach while >>>>>> handling the tiller. >>>>>> >>>>>> Jose >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> -- >>>>>> Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ >>>>> From rlowe at vt.edu Tue Jun 9 09:01:35 2020 From: rlowe at vt.edu (Lowe, Rob) Date: Tue, 9 Jun 2020 13:01:35 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] An opportunity to become a Rhodie for little down In-Reply-To: <695EED02-564B-4E1E-B760-7D3814351C1E@yahoo.com> References: <1591477624206-0.post@n5.nabble.com>, <695EED02-564B-4E1E-B760-7D3814351C1E@yahoo.com> Message-ID: Larry, Congrats on your new boat. Sounds like you got a decent deal. That's a hell of a way to tow a boat. If you drove i-81, you went right through our neighborhood. at exit 101 in Virginia you would have seen the exit for Claytor Lake. I-81 is a pretty drive but the traffic especially the trucks, can be a real bear. Good you made it home. - rob ________________________________ From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of Larry Gioia via Rhodes22-list Sent: Saturday, June 6, 2020 8:00 PM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] An opportunity to become a Rhodie for little down I?m guessing there?s no one on this list who wouldn?t buy that boat if they had a spot & need for it. I just bought that ?86 R22 in St Pete in March for $4,800 - I figured it had: - a trailer - I don?t have one for my 2014 R22 here at Lake George NY so that?d be handy for either. I store the 2014 under a covered dock on a stand that Stan cut from a trailer, it sits on 6 4x6s 13? long spanning the 2 docks. The trailer needed new wheels & tires - I got Goodyear of the size & type recommended on the blog here - 3 wheels & tires were $750. I assume the trailer?s now worth at least $1,500 so net value $750. - a 2006 or so Suzuki 6hp 4-stroke which starts 2nd pull & runs like a top. Gotta be worth $600. - sails in great shape. I suspect they?re not original but the owner passed away & his wife donated it to the Sea Scouts who fixed it up some & put it on Craigslist, so the history has been lost. - hull, rigging all in great shape. So $4,800 less (750 + 600 for trailer & motor) means the boat & sails cost $3,450. Let?s see now, 7 months a year I?ll sail it for about 2 hrs a few afternoons a week for the next 15 years. I?m 62 - and if I?m as lucky as Stan I?ll sail it for the next 30 years :) Seemed like a pretty good deal. I drove from Tampa to Lake George Wed (18 hrs) & Thurs (3.5 hrs). If driving on 81 thru the Shenandoah Valley doesn?t make you want to be a farmer, nothing will. https://youtu.be/JJ2GB2nLyFA Larry ?14 R22 Language of Love Lake George NY ?86 R22 Keystone Lake, Odessa FL > On Jun 6, 2020, at 5:07 PM, NewIn76 via Rhodes22-list wrote: > > ?Wow. I wasn't quite expecting the responses. Everyone is putting me back on > the fence about my decision. I guess I need to go back and re-think some > more. I agree with the camp that says fixing it up increases the personal > value once it goes back into the water. I'm also firmly of the opinion this > is a stronger built boat than my Catalina, Seaward, or Com-Pac. Thanks for > the input. I might need to put up more discussion topics and my anxieties > will go down. > > > > ----- > Brian > 1976 Rhodes 22 > Cleveland > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From lgioia at yahoo.com Tue Jun 9 18:21:24 2020 From: lgioia at yahoo.com (Larry Gioia) Date: Tue, 9 Jun 2020 18:21:24 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] An opportunity to become a Rhodie for little down In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <2F466608-D923-4FC8-B7EE-F4CD587BEDF4@yahoo.com> Oh I didn?t tow a boat - that would be a long way. I have a Rhodes in each spot now, Tampa is my main home. I do go right by Claytor Lake, coming off 77 it?s just a little north on 81. Nice area you?re in! I?ve been pretty lucky on my drives on 81, it?s a mid-week early afternoon and no real problems. > On Jun 9, 2020, at 9:01 AM, Lowe, Rob wrote: > > ? > Larry, > Congrats on your new boat. Sounds like you got a decent deal. > > That's a hell of a way to tow a boat. If you drove i-81, you went right through our neighborhood. at exit 101 in Virginia you would have seen the exit for Claytor Lake. I-81 is a pretty drive but the traffic especially the trucks, can be a real bear. Good you made it home. - rob > > From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of Larry Gioia via Rhodes22-list > Sent: Saturday, June 6, 2020 8:00 PM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] An opportunity to become a Rhodie for little down > > I?m guessing there?s no one on this list who wouldn?t buy that boat if they had a spot & need for it. > > I just bought that ?86 R22 in St Pete in March for $4,800 - I figured it had: > > - a trailer - I don?t have one for my 2014 R22 here at Lake George NY so that?d be handy for either. I store the 2014 under a covered dock on a stand that Stan cut from a trailer, it sits on 6 4x6s 13? long spanning the 2 docks. The trailer needed new wheels & tires - I got Goodyear of the size & type recommended on the blog here - 3 wheels & tires were $750. I assume the trailer?s now worth at least $1,500 so net value $750. > > - a 2006 or so Suzuki 6hp 4-stroke which starts 2nd pull & runs like a top. Gotta be worth $600. > > - sails in great shape. I suspect they?re not original but the owner passed away & his wife donated it to the Sea Scouts who fixed it up some & put it on Craigslist, so the history has been lost. > > - hull, rigging all in great shape. So $4,800 less (750 + 600 for trailer & motor) means the boat & sails cost $3,450. > > Let?s see now, 7 months a year I?ll sail it for about 2 hrs a few afternoons a week for the next 15 years. I?m 62 - and if I?m as lucky as Stan I?ll sail it for the next 30 years :) > > Seemed like a pretty good deal. > > I drove from Tampa to Lake George Wed (18 hrs) & Thurs (3.5 hrs). If driving on 81 thru the Shenandoah Valley doesn?t make you want to be a farmer, nothing will. > > https://youtu.be/JJ2GB2nLyFA > > Larry > ?14 R22 Language of Love > Lake George NY > ?86 R22 > Keystone Lake, Odessa FL > > > > On Jun 6, 2020, at 5:07 PM, NewIn76 via Rhodes22-list wrote: > > > > ?Wow. I wasn't quite expecting the responses. Everyone is putting me back on > > the fence about my decision. I guess I need to go back and re-think some > > more. I agree with the camp that says fixing it up increases the personal > > value once it goes back into the water. I'm also firmly of the opinion this > > is a stronger built boat than my Catalina, Seaward, or Com-Pac. Thanks for > > the input. I might need to put up more discussion topics and my anxieties > > will go down. > > > > > > > > ----- > > Brian > > 1976 Rhodes 22 > > Cleveland > > -- > > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From allynb at adsne.com Tue Jun 9 23:03:01 2020 From: allynb at adsne.com (Allyn Baskerville) Date: Wed, 10 Jun 2020 03:03:01 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Problem with furler In-Reply-To: References: <67E65DF4-CBC0-446C-B154-E60018B68A8F@adsne.com>, , Message-ID: <80B51DBF-1A0C-41EA-87F4-C72551602A68@adsne.com> Rob, thanks for the response. You have given me some great pointers. I was able to fix the issue thanks to someone in the boat club being familiar with the CDI furlers. Apparently, bearings have a tendency of falling out when the boats are transported, and I?m pretty sure at this point in time the bearings were always out since I purchased the boat. All we had to do is lift the furler assembly right above the drum which lifts out the internal drum piece, extract the loose bearings, lift the cup that should surround the bearings, replace the bearings on the race (more in this in a moment), drop the cup over the bearings, and drop the furler assembly. I didn?tHave to remove any rigging or drop the headsail. Everything is held together with gravity. I was able to get the bearings to stick to the race using some red grease. Grease is not normally used here, but it worked. I had a dream the very night I used the red grease how card stock and tape could be used to hold the bearings without grease the next time. I was able to extract 6 bearings. CDI said there should be 7, so I need to purchase another bearing or set of bearings. The headsail furls so incredibly easily now. It?s never worked this well, though it?s one beating short. I?m curious now. The headsail furls so easily now, that I wonder if the mainsail furler needs some work. I?ve always felt as if I?ve fought it. Are there bearings that could fall out of the mainsail furler? One parting comment. I love the boat. I went from a Dolphin, to a Hobie 18, to the Rhodes. We?re sailing in 2 minutes, we?re packed up in 2 minutes, don?t have to bring out and fold up the sails, and I gets *lots* of comments from others at the club about how much they like the boat. This boat really makes sailing fun. Sent from my iPhone > On Jun 4, 2020, at 11:32 AM, Lowe, Rob wrote: > > ?Allyn, > If your furling line parts your forestay will not be effected. But you won't be able to furl your head sail. You can furl it by hand if you really need to, but that's difficult in a strong wind and it means you have to put your hands on the sail and wrap it up. You can replace the furling line with headsail up, but it's a mental challenge. You would untie the knot on the top of your furling drum and feed that line down and and remove it and replace the line. The challenge there is to get the line running in the right direction around the drum (make note of how yours is now) before you remove it. The line wraps up around the drum as the sail is unfurled and it took me a while to get my head around that. You also need to get it so there are a few turns left on the drum when the sail is furled. If the separation is right near the end of the line (hard to tell from the photo), you might be able to grab that knot, pull up on it until the separation is outside the drum and re-knot it if your furling line is long enough. - rob > > ________________________________ > From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of Allyn Baskerville > Sent: Wednesday, June 3, 2020 11:41 PM > To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org > Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Problem with furler > > I have a 2001 Rhodes and noticed tonight the furler is separating and the line is cut party through. Is there a risk of the forestay coming loose? I was planning on sailing tomorrow, but I won?t if this is dangerous. I?ve not taken one of these apart before, but I?m concerned I?ll have real problems on my hand if this isn?t fixed ASAP. Thanks > > [cid:CB4F023F-7409-442D-8399-5701822AE53D] > > Sent from my iPhone > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: IMG_0329.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 276178 bytes > Desc: IMG_0329.jpg > URL: From allynb at adsne.com Tue Jun 9 23:38:20 2020 From: allynb at adsne.com (Allyn Baskerville) Date: Wed, 10 Jun 2020 03:38:20 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Rudder-Engine Conflicts Message-ID: Being new to the local boat club, I was assigned a slip that can be a challenging getting in and out of. I literally have 2? to spare backing up and none on the port side. I rely on the engine getting outOf the slip area, though it?s not bad pulling back into the slip. The engine doesn?t turn with the rudder, and I have to be very careful or the prop bangs on the rudder. Depending on the wind, I sometimes have to make some sharp turns. I need to fix the rudder due to prop damage, but before doing so, does anyone else have this problem? Any solutions for dealing with this? Thanks Sent from my iPhone From rlowe at vt.edu Wed Jun 10 08:50:04 2020 From: rlowe at vt.edu (Lowe, Rob) Date: Wed, 10 Jun 2020 12:50:04 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Problem with furler In-Reply-To: <80B51DBF-1A0C-41EA-87F4-C72551602A68@adsne.com> References: <67E65DF4-CBC0-446C-B154-E60018B68A8F@adsne.com>, , , <80B51DBF-1A0C-41EA-87F4-C72551602A68@adsne.com> Message-ID: Allyn, Glad to hear you made progress with your furler. I'd put a new one on your Christmas list. Maybe Santa will bring you one this year. He brought me a new one a couple of years ago and this year he brought me a new main. I'm not sure there are any bearings in the main. I've got to install my new main later on this week so I'll let you know what I find. I know there are some things you can do to make it furl easier. I believe a good dose of Sailkote in on the furling mechanism and the slot in the boom are good places to start. Did you get your frayed line figured out? Rob ________________________________ From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of Allyn Baskerville Sent: Tuesday, June 9, 2020 11:03 PM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Problem with furler Rob, thanks for the response. You have given me some great pointers. I was able to fix the issue thanks to someone in the boat club being familiar with the CDI furlers. Apparently, bearings have a tendency of falling out when the boats are transported, and I?m pretty sure at this point in time the bearings were always out since I purchased the boat. All we had to do is lift the furler assembly right above the drum which lifts out the internal drum piece, extract the loose bearings, lift the cup that should surround the bearings, replace the bearings on the race (more in this in a moment), drop the cup over the bearings, and drop the furler assembly. I didn?tHave to remove any rigging or drop the headsail. Everything is held together with gravity. I was able to get the bearings to stick to the race using some red grease. Grease is not normally used here, but it worked. I had a dream the very night I used the red grease how card stock and tape could be used to hold the bearings without grease the next time. I was able to extract 6 bearings. CDI said there should be 7, so I need to purchase another bearing or set of bearings. The headsail furls so incredibly easily now. It?s never worked this well, though it?s one beating short. I?m curious now. The headsail furls so easily now, that I wonder if the mainsail furler needs some work. I?ve always felt as if I?ve fought it. Are there bearings that could fall out of the mainsail furler? One parting comment. I love the boat. I went from a Dolphin, to a Hobie 18, to the Rhodes. We?re sailing in 2 minutes, we?re packed up in 2 minutes, don?t have to bring out and fold up the sails, and I gets *lots* of comments from others at the club about how much they like the boat. This boat really makes sailing fun. Sent from my iPhone > On Jun 4, 2020, at 11:32 AM, Lowe, Rob wrote: > > ?Allyn, > If your furling line parts your forestay will not be effected. But you won't be able to furl your head sail. You can furl it by hand if you really need to, but that's difficult in a strong wind and it means you have to put your hands on the sail and wrap it up. You can replace the furling line with headsail up, but it's a mental challenge. You would untie the knot on the top of your furling drum and feed that line down and and remove it and replace the line. The challenge there is to get the line running in the right direction around the drum (make note of how yours is now) before you remove it. The line wraps up around the drum as the sail is unfurled and it took me a while to get my head around that. You also need to get it so there are a few turns left on the drum when the sail is furled. If the separation is right near the end of the line (hard to tell from the photo), you might be able to grab that knot, pull up on it until the separation is outside the drum and re-knot it if your furling line is long enough. - rob > > ________________________________ > From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of Allyn Baskerville > Sent: Wednesday, June 3, 2020 11:41 PM > To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org > Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Problem with furler > > I have a 2001 Rhodes and noticed tonight the furler is separating and the line is cut party through. Is there a risk of the forestay coming loose? I was planning on sailing tomorrow, but I won?t if this is dangerous. I?ve not taken one of these apart before, but I?m concerned I?ll have real problems on my hand if this isn?t fixed ASAP. Thanks > > [cid:CB4F023F-7409-442D-8399-5701822AE53D] > > Sent from my iPhone > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: IMG_0329.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 276178 bytes > Desc: IMG_0329.jpg > URL: From rlowe at vt.edu Wed Jun 10 08:54:20 2020 From: rlowe at vt.edu (Lowe, Rob) Date: Wed, 10 Jun 2020 12:54:20 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] An opportunity to become a Rhodie for little down In-Reply-To: <2F466608-D923-4FC8-B7EE-F4CD587BEDF4@yahoo.com> References: , <2F466608-D923-4FC8-B7EE-F4CD587BEDF4@yahoo.com> Message-ID: Larry, Sweet. A home Rhodes and a vacation Rhodes. You know what they say about having two of something. You should never have two until everybody has one. Yell at us next time you come by. I might be back on the lake by then. Just got my boat back from GB the other day and now working to get her back on the water. - rob ________________________________ From: Larry Gioia Sent: Tuesday, June 9, 2020 6:21 PM To: Lowe, Rob Cc: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] An opportunity to become a Rhodie for little down Oh I didn?t tow a boat - that would be a long way. I have a Rhodes in each spot now, Tampa is my main home. I do go right by Claytor Lake, coming off 77 it?s just a little north on 81. Nice area you?re in! I?ve been pretty lucky on my drives on 81, it?s a mid-week early afternoon and no real problems. On Jun 9, 2020, at 9:01 AM, Lowe, Rob wrote: ? Larry, Congrats on your new boat. Sounds like you got a decent deal. That's a hell of a way to tow a boat. If you drove i-81, you went right through our neighborhood. at exit 101 in Virginia you would have seen the exit for Claytor Lake. I-81 is a pretty drive but the traffic especially the trucks, can be a real bear. Good you made it home. - rob ________________________________ From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of Larry Gioia via Rhodes22-list Sent: Saturday, June 6, 2020 8:00 PM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] An opportunity to become a Rhodie for little down I?m guessing there?s no one on this list who wouldn?t buy that boat if they had a spot & need for it. I just bought that ?86 R22 in St Pete in March for $4,800 - I figured it had: - a trailer - I don?t have one for my 2014 R22 here at Lake George NY so that?d be handy for either. I store the 2014 under a covered dock on a stand that Stan cut from a trailer, it sits on 6 4x6s 13? long spanning the 2 docks. The trailer needed new wheels & tires - I got Goodyear of the size & type recommended on the blog here - 3 wheels & tires were $750. I assume the trailer?s now worth at least $1,500 so net value $750. - a 2006 or so Suzuki 6hp 4-stroke which starts 2nd pull & runs like a top. Gotta be worth $600. - sails in great shape. I suspect they?re not original but the owner passed away & his wife donated it to the Sea Scouts who fixed it up some & put it on Craigslist, so the history has been lost. - hull, rigging all in great shape. So $4,800 less (750 + 600 for trailer & motor) means the boat & sails cost $3,450. Let?s see now, 7 months a year I?ll sail it for about 2 hrs a few afternoons a week for the next 15 years. I?m 62 - and if I?m as lucky as Stan I?ll sail it for the next 30 years :) Seemed like a pretty good deal. I drove from Tampa to Lake George Wed (18 hrs) & Thurs (3.5 hrs). If driving on 81 thru the Shenandoah Valley doesn?t make you want to be a farmer, nothing will. https://youtu.be/JJ2GB2nLyFA Larry ?14 R22 Language of Love Lake George NY ?86 R22 Keystone Lake, Odessa FL > On Jun 6, 2020, at 5:07 PM, NewIn76 via Rhodes22-list wrote: > > ?Wow. I wasn't quite expecting the responses. Everyone is putting me back on > the fence about my decision. I guess I need to go back and re-think some > more. I agree with the camp that says fixing it up increases the personal > value once it goes back into the water. I'm also firmly of the opinion this > is a stronger built boat than my Catalina, Seaward, or Com-Pac. Thanks for > the input. I might need to put up more discussion topics and my anxieties > will go down. > > > > ----- > Brian > 1976 Rhodes 22 > Cleveland > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From mtroy at atlanticbb.net Wed Jun 10 09:05:45 2020 From: mtroy at atlanticbb.net (Mary Lou Troy) Date: Wed, 10 Jun 2020 09:05:45 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Problem with furler In-Reply-To: References: <67E65DF4-CBC0-446C-B154-E60018B68A8F@adsne.com> <80B51DBF-1A0C-41EA-87F4-C72551602A68@adsne.com> Message-ID: <5b7f2312-fe27-5da9-011d-7f9cb72bce9d@atlanticbb.net> We used to use Sailkote on the edges of the mast slot as high as we could reach, or the whole slot if the mast was down. Sailkot will not attract dirt or discolor the sail. No bearings in the main furler unless someone tinkered with it. Mary Lou ex R22 now Rosborough RF-246 On 6/10/2020 8:50 AM, Lowe, Rob wrote: > Allyn, > Glad to hear you made progress with your furler. I'd put a new one on your Christmas list. Maybe Santa will bring you one this year. He brought me a new one a couple of years ago and this year he brought me a new main. > > I'm not sure there are any bearings in the main. I've got to install my new main later on this week so I'll let you know what I find. I know there are some things you can do to make it furl easier. I believe a good dose of Sailkote in on the furling mechanism and the slot in the boom are good places to start. > > Did you get your frayed line figured out? > > Rob > > ________________________________ > From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of Allyn Baskerville > Sent: Tuesday, June 9, 2020 11:03 PM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Problem with furler > > Rob, thanks for the response. You have given me some great pointers. > > I was able to fix the issue thanks to someone in the boat club being familiar with the CDI furlers. Apparently, bearings have a tendency of falling out when the boats are transported, and I?m pretty sure at this point in time the bearings were always out since I purchased the boat. > > All we had to do is lift the furler assembly right above the drum which lifts out the internal drum piece, extract the loose bearings, lift the cup that should surround the bearings, replace the bearings on the race (more in this in a moment), drop the cup over the bearings, and drop the furler assembly. I didn?tHave to remove any rigging or drop the headsail. Everything is held together with gravity. > > I was able to get the bearings to stick to the race using some red grease. Grease is not normally used here, but it worked. I had a dream the very night I used the red grease how card stock and tape could be used to hold the bearings without grease the next time. > > I was able to extract 6 bearings. CDI said there should be 7, so I need to purchase another bearing or set of bearings. The headsail furls so incredibly easily now. It?s never worked this well, though it?s one beating short. > > I?m curious now. The headsail furls so easily now, that I wonder if the mainsail furler needs some work. I?ve always felt as if I?ve fought it. Are there bearings that could fall out of the mainsail furler? > > One parting comment. I love the boat. I went from a Dolphin, to a Hobie 18, to the Rhodes. We?re sailing in 2 minutes, we?re packed up in 2 minutes, don?t have to bring out and fold up the sails, and I gets *lots* of comments from others at the club about how much they like the boat. This boat really makes sailing fun. > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Jun 4, 2020, at 11:32 AM, Lowe, Rob wrote: >> >> ?Allyn, >> If your furling line parts your forestay will not be effected. But you won't be able to furl your head sail. You can furl it by hand if you really need to, but that's difficult in a strong wind and it means you have to put your hands on the sail and wrap it up. You can replace the furling line with headsail up, but it's a mental challenge. You would untie the knot on the top of your furling drum and feed that line down and and remove it and replace the line. The challenge there is to get the line running in the right direction around the drum (make note of how yours is now) before you remove it. The line wraps up around the drum as the sail is unfurled and it took me a while to get my head around that. You also need to get it so there are a few turns left on the drum when the sail is furled. If the separation is right near the end of the line (hard to tell from the photo), you might be able to grab that knot, pull up on it until the separation is outside the drum and re-knot it if your furling line is long enough. - rob >> >> ________________________________ >> From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of Allyn Baskerville >> Sent: Wednesday, June 3, 2020 11:41 PM >> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org >> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Problem with furler >> >> I have a 2001 Rhodes and noticed tonight the furler is separating and the line is cut party through. Is there a risk of the forestay coming loose? I was planning on sailing tomorrow, but I won?t if this is dangerous. I?ve not taken one of these apart before, but I?m concerned I?ll have real problems on my hand if this isn?t fixed ASAP. Thanks >> >> [cid:CB4F023F-7409-442D-8399-5701822AE53D] >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> -------------- next part -------------- >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >> Name: IMG_0329.jpg >> Type: image/jpeg >> Size: 276178 bytes >> Desc: IMG_0329.jpg >> URL: -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus From mtroy at atlanticbb.net Wed Jun 10 09:26:50 2020 From: mtroy at atlanticbb.net (Mary Lou Troy) Date: Wed, 10 Jun 2020 09:26:50 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Rudder-Engine Conflicts In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <23e46253-499a-ef84-fe25-1052b39933f2@atlanticbb.net> Is your rudder pulled all the way forward with the control line on the front edge of the rudder? It sails better with it pulled forward too. Ours was close after we bought a new motor with a larger low-thrust prop but the rudder never came in contact with the prop. Hopefully someone else has had and solved the issue. Mary Lou On 6/9/2020 11:38 PM, Allyn Baskerville wrote: > Being new to the local boat club, I was assigned a slip that can be a challenging getting in and out of. I literally have 2? to spare backing up and none on the port side. I rely on the engine getting outOf the slip area, though it?s not bad pulling back into the slip. The engine doesn?t turn with the rudder, and I have to be very careful or the prop bangs on the rudder. Depending on the wind, I sometimes have to make some sharp turns. I need to fix the rudder due to prop damage, but before doing so, does anyone else have this problem? Any solutions for dealing with this? Thanks > > Sent from my iPhone -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus From gvchandler365luv2 at gmail.com Wed Jun 10 12:19:08 2020 From: gvchandler365luv2 at gmail.com (Gray) Date: Wed, 10 Jun 2020 09:19:08 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] An opportunity to become a Rhodie for little down In-Reply-To: <695EED02-564B-4E1E-B760-7D3814351C1E@yahoo.com> References: <1591303857601-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1591390117301-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <6CF43069-207D-4BC4-B092-EC978E975FC5@verizon.net> <00a301d63c45$26dc4c70$7494e550$@ca> <1591477624206-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <695EED02-564B-4E1E-B760-7D3814351C1E@yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1591805948502-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Larry, I just sent an email about the ?86 Rhodes 22. If you have not sold it yet, I would be willing to offer $4000 for it if your information is correct. Depending on factors not in your message I might consider more. Gray Chandler Raleigh,NC (919) 449-4512 (c) -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From roger_pihlaja at msn.com Wed Jun 10 13:15:47 2020 From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA) Date: Wed, 10 Jun 2020 17:15:47 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Rudder-Engine Conflicts In-Reply-To: <23e46253-499a-ef84-fe25-1052b39933f2@atlanticbb.net> References: , <23e46253-499a-ef84-fe25-1052b39933f2@atlanticbb.net> Message-ID: Allyn, Mary Lou Troy is correct. The rudder blade needs to be all the way down in order to clear the prop. However, your boat might have another issue. Your motor mount might be installed too far inboard. Or, your rudder might have been installed off the transom centerline to port; but, that seems very unlikely. Try this: Measure the distance from the rudder?s gudgeon centerline to the centerline of the outboard motor mount. It?s pouring cat & dogs right now, so I can?t go make that measurement on S/V Dynamic Equilibrium. But, when the rain lets up, I will go make that measurement and let you know what I find. Roger Pihlaja S/V Dynamic Equilibrium Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Mary Lou Troy Sent: Wednesday, June 10, 2020 9:27 AM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Rudder-Engine Conflicts Is your rudder pulled all the way forward with the control line on the front edge of the rudder? It sails better with it pulled forward too. Ours was close after we bought a new motor with a larger low-thrust prop but the rudder never came in contact with the prop. Hopefully someone else has had and solved the issue. Mary Lou On 6/9/2020 11:38 PM, Allyn Baskerville wrote: > Being new to the local boat club, I was assigned a slip that can be a challenging getting in and out of. I literally have 2? to spare backing up and none on the port side. I rely on the engine getting outOf the slip area, though it?s not bad pulling back into the slip. The engine doesn?t turn with the rudder, and I have to be very careful or the prop bangs on the rudder. Depending on the wind, I sometimes have to make some sharp turns. I need to fix the rudder due to prop damage, but before doing so, does anyone else have this problem? Any solutions for dealing with this? Thanks > > Sent from my iPhone -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus From cjlowe at sssnet.com Wed Jun 10 14:57:10 2020 From: cjlowe at sssnet.com (cjlowe at sssnet.com) Date: Wed, 10 Jun 2020 14:57:10 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Problem with furler In-Reply-To: <80B51DBF-1A0C-41EA-87F4-C72551602A68@adsne.com> References: <67E65DF4-CBC0-446C-B154-E60018B68A8F@adsne.com>, , <80B51DBF-1A0C-41EA-87F4-C72551602A68@adsne.com> Message-ID: <64048.24.140.30.102.1591815430.squirrel@quickpop.sssnet.com> Two things might help in furling the main sails... Have the wind coming over the port side of the boat when furling. This put the sail on the right side of the mast to be furled in. If you try to curl it with the wind on the other side, it put pressure on the sail and put undue friction between the sail and the mast slot. The other tip is to keep the end of the boom as low as possible, so the sail doesn't bunch up at the bottom. One more thing, once the sail gets old and starts to get baggy, it wrinkles and bunches in the middle of the mast and makes furling much harder. Shoot us a picture of your motor mount setup to see if we can advise on the rudder problem. Rob, thanks for the response. You have given me some great pointers. > > I was able to fix the issue thanks to someone in the boat club being > familiar with the CDI furlers. Apparently, bearings have a tendency of > falling out when the boats are transported, and I???m pretty sure at this > point in time the bearings were always out since I purchased the boat. > > All we had to do is lift the furler assembly right above the drum which > lifts out the internal drum piece, extract the loose bearings, lift the > cup that should surround the bearings, replace the bearings on the race > (more in this in a moment), drop the cup over the bearings, and drop the > furler assembly. I didn???tHave to remove any rigging or drop the > headsail. Everything is held together with gravity. > > I was able to get the bearings to stick to the race using some red grease. > Grease is not normally used here, but it worked. I had a dream the very > night I used the red grease how card stock and tape could be used to hold > the bearings without grease the next time. > > I was able to extract 6 bearings. CDI said there should be 7, so I need to > purchase another bearing or set of bearings. The headsail furls so > incredibly easily now. It???s never worked this well, though it???s one > beating short. > > I???m curious now. The headsail furls so easily now, that I wonder if the > mainsail furler needs some work. I???ve always felt as if I???ve fought > it. Are there bearings that could fall out of the mainsail furler? > > One parting comment. I love the boat. I went from a Dolphin, to a Hobie > 18, to the Rhodes. We???re sailing in 2 minutes, we???re packed up in 2 > minutes, don???t have to bring out and fold up the sails, and I gets > *lots* of comments from others at the club about how much they like the > boat. This boat really makes sailing fun. > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Jun 4, 2020, at 11:32 AM, Lowe, Rob wrote: >> >> ???Allyn, >> If your furling line parts your forestay will not be effected. But you >> won't be able to furl your head sail. You can furl it by hand if you >> really need to, but that's difficult in a strong wind and it means you >> have to put your hands on the sail and wrap it up. You can replace the >> furling line with headsail up, but it's a mental challenge. You would >> untie the knot on the top of your furling drum and feed that line down >> and and remove it and replace the line. The challenge there is to get >> the line running in the right direction around the drum (make note of >> how yours is now) before you remove it. The line wraps up around the >> drum as the sail is unfurled and it took me a while to get my head >> around that. You also need to get it so there are a few turns left on >> the drum when the sail is furled. If the separation is right near the >> end of the line (hard to tell from the photo), you might be able to grab >> that knot, pull up on it until the separation is outside the drum and >> re-knot it if your furling line is long enough. - rob >> >> ________________________________ >> From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of >> Allyn Baskerville >> Sent: Wednesday, June 3, 2020 11:41 PM >> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org >> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Problem with furler >> >> I have a 2001 Rhodes and noticed tonight the furler is separating and >> the line is cut party through. Is there a risk of the forestay coming >> loose? I was planning on sailing tomorrow, but I won???t if this is >> dangerous. I???ve not taken one of these apart before, but I???m >> concerned I???ll have real problems on my hand if this isn???t fixed >> ASAP. Thanks >> >> [cid:CB4F023F-7409-442D-8399-5701822AE53D] >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> -------------- next part -------------- >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >> Name: IMG_0329.jpg >> Type: image/jpeg >> Size: 276178 bytes >> Desc: IMG_0329.jpg >> URL: >> > From gjnovotny at comcast.net Wed Jun 10 15:46:18 2020 From: gjnovotny at comcast.net (gjnovotny at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 10 Jun 2020 15:46:18 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] An opportunity to become a Rhodie for little down In-Reply-To: <1591805948502-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1591303857601-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1591390117301-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <6CF43069-207D-4BC4-B092-EC978E975FC5@verizon.net> <00a301d63c45$26dc4c70$7494e550$@ca> <1591477624206-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <695EED02-564B-4E1E-B760-7D3814351C1E@yahoo.com> <1591805948502-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <026901d63f5f$d06102f0$712308d0$@comcast.net> Gray, Yes, I still have the Rhodes 22. Are you a broker or are you interested in purchase for yourself? Gary Gary J. Novotny Systems and Network Administrator Delo Medical Associates 514 SE Port Saint Lucie Blvd Port Saint Lucie Florida, 34984 gnovotny at delomed.net gjnovotny at comcast.net 772-971-5753 -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of Gray Sent: Wednesday, June 10, 2020 12:19 PM To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] An opportunity to become a Rhodie for little down Larry, I just sent an email about the ?86 Rhodes 22. If you have not sold it yet, I would be willing to offer $4000 for it if your information is correct. Depending on factors not in your message I might consider more. Gray Chandler Raleigh,NC (919) 449-4512 (c) -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From stan at generalboats.com Wed Jun 10 16:19:24 2020 From: stan at generalboats.com (stan) Date: Wed, 10 Jun 2020 16:19:24 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Rob Lowes advice In-Reply-To: <64048.24.140.30.102.1591815430.squirrel@quickpop.sssnet.com> References: <67E65DF4-CBC0-446C-B154-E60018B68A8F@adsne.com> <80B51DBF-1A0C-41EA-87F4-C72551602A68@adsne.com> <64048.24.140.30.102.1591815430.squirrel@quickpop.sssnet.com> Message-ID: <6b276db2-91e8-c7f5-4ca2-5f33e8def43d@generalboats.com> This is the captain speaking: Of course seaman Lowe is correct when he says you want the sail coming out of its mast slot as? cleanly as it can.? The way to do that is to be into the wind so the boom is modestly off to starboard. BUT, a more telling issue is (I know when I interject this kind of nautical fact it ruffles a few feathers, so I generally don't, but I am in a good mood today.)? IMF sails should be obtained from the GB parts site? www.rhodes22parts.com? because the GB IMF sallysail main is a proprietary cut designed to function with the GB IMF furling system (which, incidentally. has self lubricating bearings.?? If a GB IMF main is not working, something is being done wrong or some part has failed.? Either case can be remedied.? Putting a downward pressure on the boom is not one of them. From rca02536 at gmail.com Wed Jun 10 18:04:37 2020 From: rca02536 at gmail.com (Bob Allen) Date: Wed, 10 Jun 2020 18:04:37 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Forestay length Message-ID: <0B5ECD69-9318-4598-B953-379F113A0836@gmail.com> Hi all, Installing a new jib furler, anyone have the exact length of the forestay, I have 26.98 ft, sound about right? Happy sailing Bob Allen s/v air force Falmouth, MA From roger_pihlaja at msn.com Wed Jun 10 18:31:57 2020 From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA) Date: Wed, 10 Jun 2020 22:31:57 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Rudder-Engine Conflicts In-Reply-To: References: , <23e46253-499a-ef84-fe25-1052b39933f2@atlanticbb.net>, Message-ID: Allyn, OK, the rain finally let up long enough for me to slosh out to S/V Dynamic Equilibrium sitting on its trailer. The distance from the center of the rudder?s lower gudgeon to the center of the motor mount is 24 inches. If your motor mount is located much closer to the rudder than that; then, this distance might be part of your interference issue. We just got a letter from Auto-Owners regarding our home owner?s insurance coverage for our flood damage. We had no flood insurance because our house was not in the 100 year flood plain and our home owner?s insurance policy does not cover flood damage. The three attached photos show our dock before, during, and after the flood. [cid:image001.png at 01D63F51.B1FA2570] [cid:image002.png at 01D63F51.B1FA2570] Remains Of The Dock After The Flood [cid:image004.png at 01D63F55.66400510] Weather permitting, this Saturday, the same contractor that built the dock is starting a month long phase 1 project to remove the debris from our waterfront, repair our seawalls and steps, and replace the rock riprap along our shoreline. Just this phase 1 project will cost ~K$18.3. Making it look like the 1st picture will cost an additional ~K$11.7. But, until we get some assurance they are actually going to rebuild the dams, which will probably take years, we are not going to proceed with phase 2. Phase 1 will remove the debris and protect our shoreline against further erosion. But, who wants a 12? X 40? dock, complete with water, shore power, dock boxes, mooring cleats, and mooring whips, that overlooks a debris filled, mud flat, wasteland? A K$30 uninsured loss isn?t going to break us; but, OUCH! There are certainly plenty of other things we would rather spend the money on. Deb & I have joined a class action lawsuit that is suing both the State of Michigan and Boyce Hydro for damages and remediation. But, that will take years and the outcome is far from certain. I have a friend at MDOT who tells me both the M-30 bridge over the Tittabawassee River in Edenville and the M-30 causeway over Wixom Lake are going to have to be torn down and rebuilt from scratch. These 2 bridges are next on the priority list after they repair the I-10 causeway over Sanford Lake. But, this will take a year or more. Until at least one of those M-30 bridges is reopened, I will have no access to my stuff at Johnson Mini Storage. Other than that, things is dull! Good luck with your rudder/engine conflict issue, Allyn. Roger Pihlaja S/V Dynamic Equilibrium Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: ROGER PIHLAJA Sent: Wednesday, June 10, 2020 1:15 PM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Rudder-Engine Conflicts Allyn, Mary Lou Troy is correct. The rudder blade needs to be all the way down in order to clear the prop. However, your boat might have another issue. Your motor mount might be installed too far inboard. Or, your rudder might have been installed off the transom centerline to port; but, that seems very unlikely. Try this: Measure the distance from the rudder?s gudgeon centerline to the centerline of the outboard motor mount. It?s pouring cat & dogs right now, so I can?t go make that measurement on S/V Dynamic Equilibrium. But, when the rain lets up, I will go make that measurement and let you know what I find. Roger Pihlaja S/V Dynamic Equilibrium Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Mary Lou Troy Sent: Wednesday, June 10, 2020 9:27 AM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Rudder-Engine Conflicts Is your rudder pulled all the way forward with the control line on the front edge of the rudder? It sails better with it pulled forward too. Ours was close after we bought a new motor with a larger low-thrust prop but the rudder never came in contact with the prop. Hopefully someone else has had and solved the issue. Mary Lou On 6/9/2020 11:38 PM, Allyn Baskerville wrote: > Being new to the local boat club, I was assigned a slip that can be a challenging getting in and out of. I literally have 2? to spare backing up and none on the port side. I rely on the engine getting outOf the slip area, though it?s not bad pulling back into the slip. The engine doesn?t turn with the rudder, and I have to be very careful or the prop bangs on the rudder. Depending on the wind, I sometimes have to make some sharp turns. I need to fix the rudder due to prop damage, but before doing so, does anyone else have this problem? Any solutions for dealing with this? Thanks > > Sent from my iPhone -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: F5A02581979B4DC8AD8948526D200C83.png Type: image/png Size: 302878 bytes Desc: F5A02581979B4DC8AD8948526D200C83.png URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: AC7B51EF040B41FAA13BAC066469A4BC.png Type: image/png Size: 332109 bytes Desc: AC7B51EF040B41FAA13BAC066469A4BC.png URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 0CDC96710DBD4215A4419198775B23FC.png Type: image/png Size: 490508 bytes Desc: 0CDC96710DBD4215A4419198775B23FC.png URL: From rbeytagh at gmail.com Wed Jun 10 21:29:40 2020 From: rbeytagh at gmail.com (Richard Beytagh) Date: Wed, 10 Jun 2020 21:29:40 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] New home for Rhodes 22 "Sunday Morning" Message-ID: Picked up "Sunday Morning" a Rhodes 22 that had been a resident on the New Jersey shore for several years and transported her to Gibson Island on Chesapeake yesterday. 91?F and 100% humidity didn't help, but we got it done. I wish the new owner, David Weinberg many happy voyages and welcome to the "Da List". ~~~ _/) ~~~ Richard Beytagh Phone: 828 337 0180 -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Sunday morning.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 197053 bytes Desc: not available URL: From markwynn at verizon.net Wed Jun 10 22:30:53 2020 From: markwynn at verizon.net (MARK WYNN) Date: Wed, 10 Jun 2020 22:30:53 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] New home for Rhodes 22 "Sunday Morning" In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Welcome to the neighborhood! I have a R22 nearby on the South side of the Magothy River. Enjoy your boat! > On Jun 10, 2020, at 9:29 PM, Richard Beytagh wrote: > > Picked up "Sunday Morning" a Rhodes 22 that had been a resident on the New > Jersey shore for several years and transported her to Gibson Island on > Chesapeake yesterday. 91?F and 100% humidity didn't help, but we got it > done. I wish the new owner, David Weinberg many happy voyages and welcome > to the "Da List". > > > ~~~ _/) ~~~ > > Richard Beytagh > Phone: 828 337 0180 > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: Sunday morning.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 197053 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: From rlowe at vt.edu Thu Jun 11 09:46:52 2020 From: rlowe at vt.edu (Lowe, Rob) Date: Thu, 11 Jun 2020 13:46:52 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Rudder-Engine Conflicts In-Reply-To: References: , <23e46253-499a-ef84-fe25-1052b39933f2@atlanticbb.net>, , Message-ID: Roger, We were treated to a picture of you, but alas, can't really see you very well. The before and after pictures are startling. An yes, no reason to rebuild a dock if there is not going to be any lake. What was the purpose of the lake? Flood control? Water supply? Recreation? Hydropower? Might make a difference if it comes back or not. Keep us posted. - rob ________________________________ From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of ROGER PIHLAJA Sent: Wednesday, June 10, 2020 6:31 PM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Rudder-Engine Conflicts Allyn, OK, the rain finally let up long enough for me to slosh out to S/V Dynamic Equilibrium sitting on its trailer. The distance from the center of the rudder?s lower gudgeon to the center of the motor mount is 24 inches. If your motor mount is located much closer to the rudder than that; then, this distance might be part of your interference issue. We just got a letter from Auto-Owners regarding our home owner?s insurance coverage for our flood damage. We had no flood insurance because our house was not in the 100 year flood plain and our home owner?s insurance policy does not cover flood damage. The three attached photos show our dock before, during, and after the flood. [cid:image001.png at 01D63F51.B1FA2570] [cid:image002.png at 01D63F51.B1FA2570] Remains Of The Dock After The Flood [cid:image004.png at 01D63F55.66400510] Weather permitting, this Saturday, the same contractor that built the dock is starting a month long phase 1 project to remove the debris from our waterfront, repair our seawalls and steps, and replace the rock riprap along our shoreline. Just this phase 1 project will cost ~K$18.3. Making it look like the 1st picture will cost an additional ~K$11.7. But, until we get some assurance they are actually going to rebuild the dams, which will probably take years, we are not going to proceed with phase 2. Phase 1 will remove the debris and protect our shoreline against further erosion. But, who wants a 12? X 40? dock, complete with water, shore power, dock boxes, mooring cleats, and mooring whips, that overlooks a debris filled, mud flat, wasteland? A K$30 uninsured loss isn?t going to break us; but, OUCH! There are certainly plenty of other things we would rather spend the money on. Deb & I have joined a class action lawsuit that is suing both the State of Michigan and Boyce Hydro for damages and remediation. But, that will take years and the outcome is far from certain. I have a friend at MDOT who tells me both the M-30 bridge over the Tittabawassee River in Edenville and the M-30 causeway over Wixom Lake are going to have to be torn down and rebuilt from scratch. These 2 bridges are next on the priority list after they repair the I-10 causeway over Sanford Lake. But, this will take a year or more. Until at least one of those M-30 bridges is reopened, I will have no access to my stuff at Johnson Mini Storage. Other than that, things is dull! Good luck with your rudder/engine conflict issue, Allyn. Roger Pihlaja S/V Dynamic Equilibrium Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: ROGER PIHLAJA Sent: Wednesday, June 10, 2020 1:15 PM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Rudder-Engine Conflicts Allyn, Mary Lou Troy is correct. The rudder blade needs to be all the way down in order to clear the prop. However, your boat might have another issue. Your motor mount might be installed too far inboard. Or, your rudder might have been installed off the transom centerline to port; but, that seems very unlikely. Try this: Measure the distance from the rudder?s gudgeon centerline to the centerline of the outboard motor mount. It?s pouring cat & dogs right now, so I can?t go make that measurement on S/V Dynamic Equilibrium. But, when the rain lets up, I will go make that measurement and let you know what I find. Roger Pihlaja S/V Dynamic Equilibrium Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Mary Lou Troy Sent: Wednesday, June 10, 2020 9:27 AM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Rudder-Engine Conflicts Is your rudder pulled all the way forward with the control line on the front edge of the rudder? It sails better with it pulled forward too. Ours was close after we bought a new motor with a larger low-thrust prop but the rudder never came in contact with the prop. Hopefully someone else has had and solved the issue. Mary Lou On 6/9/2020 11:38 PM, Allyn Baskerville wrote: > Being new to the local boat club, I was assigned a slip that can be a challenging getting in and out of. I literally have 2? to spare backing up and none on the port side. I rely on the engine getting outOf the slip area, though it?s not bad pulling back into the slip. The engine doesn?t turn with the rudder, and I have to be very careful or the prop bangs on the rudder. Depending on the wind, I sometimes have to make some sharp turns. I need to fix the rudder due to prop damage, but before doing so, does anyone else have this problem? Any solutions for dealing with this? Thanks > > Sent from my iPhone -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: F5A02581979B4DC8AD8948526D200C83.png Type: image/png Size: 302878 bytes Desc: F5A02581979B4DC8AD8948526D200C83.png URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: AC7B51EF040B41FAA13BAC066469A4BC.png Type: image/png Size: 332109 bytes Desc: AC7B51EF040B41FAA13BAC066469A4BC.png URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 0CDC96710DBD4215A4419198775B23FC.png Type: image/png Size: 490508 bytes Desc: 0CDC96710DBD4215A4419198775B23FC.png URL: From sea20 at verizon.net Thu Jun 11 10:59:51 2020 From: sea20 at verizon.net (sea20 at verizon.net) Date: Thu, 11 Jun 2020 14:59:51 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] trailers References: <683088386.1622218.1591887591634.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <683088386.1622218.1591887591634@mail.yahoo.com> Greetings all, I am looking for recomendations on a trailer for a Rhodes 22. I've had some bad experiences with old trailers and promised myself to invest in a good one next time.?Scott Andrews? From rlowe at vt.edu Thu Jun 11 11:19:07 2020 From: rlowe at vt.edu (Lowe, Rob) Date: Thu, 11 Jun 2020 15:19:07 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] trailers In-Reply-To: <683088386.1622218.1591887591634@mail.yahoo.com> References: <683088386.1622218.1591887591634.ref@mail.yahoo.com>, <683088386.1622218.1591887591634@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Scott, You can certainly check with Stan at GB and see if he has anything, but Stan gets them from Triad and they are made for the R22. Check with Stan first. Maybe someone one the list has one, but that doesn't happen very often. - rob https://www.triadtrailers.com/triad-trailer-gallery/sailboat-trailers/triad-trailers-under-24-feet/triad-trailersrhodes-22/ Rhodes 22 - Triad Trailers To Place Your Order Call (919) 782 ? 6007 or email mike at triadtrailers.com. ?2019 Triad Trailers. www.triadtrailers.com ________________________________ From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of Scott E Andrews via Rhodes22-list Sent: Thursday, June 11, 2020 10:59 AM To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: [Rhodes22-list] trailers Greetings all, I am looking for recomendations on a trailer for a Rhodes 22. I've had some bad experiences with old trailers and promised myself to invest in a good one next time. Scott Andrews From seanallen1206 at gmail.com Thu Jun 11 11:47:20 2020 From: seanallen1206 at gmail.com (Sean Allen) Date: Thu, 11 Jun 2020 11:47:20 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] trailers In-Reply-To: References: <683088386.1622218.1591887591634.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <683088386.1622218.1591887591634@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I would be curious to know what pricing for a new trailer runs. If you talk to Triad do you think you can let us know what their pricing looks like? On Thu, Jun 11, 2020 at 11:19 AM Lowe, Rob wrote: > Scott, > You can certainly check with Stan at GB and see if he has anything, but > Stan gets them from Triad and they are made for the R22. Check with Stan > first. Maybe someone one the list has one, but that doesn't happen very > often. - rob > > > https://www.triadtrailers.com/triad-trailer-gallery/sailboat-trailers/triad-trailers-under-24-feet/triad-trailersrhodes-22/ > Rhodes 22 - Triad Trailers< > https://www.triadtrailers.com/triad-trailer-gallery/sailboat-trailers/triad-trailers-under-24-feet/triad-trailersrhodes-22/ > > > To Place Your Order Call (919) 782 ? 6007 or email mike at triadtrailers.com. > ?2019 Triad Trailers. > www.triadtrailers.com > > > ________________________________ > From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of > Scott E Andrews via Rhodes22-list > Sent: Thursday, June 11, 2020 10:59 AM > To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org > Subject: [Rhodes22-list] trailers > > Greetings all, I am looking for recomendations on a trailer for a Rhodes > 22. I've had some bad experiences with old trailers and promised myself to > invest in a good one next time. Scott Andrews > From fcrawford0707 at aol.com Thu Jun 11 12:05:16 2020 From: fcrawford0707 at aol.com (Frone Crawford) Date: Thu, 11 Jun 2020 16:05:16 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] New home for Rhodes 22 "Sunday Morning" In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <164128608.2811806.1591891516731@mail.yahoo.com> Richard - Very nice to meet you on Tuesday. Thanks for your careful treatment of David's new Rhodes 22. I sailed Sunday Morning for 26 seasons,including two journeys to the Chesapeake Bay via Delaware Bay and the C & D Canal,? and - after refurbishments at General Boats - my wife and I cruised from Edenton back to Avalon ( 11 days altogether).? With my wife having passed away and I not getting younger, it was time to seek a new owner for Sunday Morning.? Having met David a couple of weeks ago, I am sure that he will continue to treat her kindly. David - Best wishes for smooth ( and some exciting) sailing. ??? ??? Frone Crawford -----Original Message----- From: Richard Beytagh To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Sent: Wed, Jun 10, 2020 9:29 pm Subject: [Rhodes22-list] New home for Rhodes 22 "Sunday Morning" Picked up "Sunday Morning" a Rhodes 22 that had been a resident on the New Jersey shore for several years and transported her to Gibson Island on Chesapeake yesterday. 91?F? and 100% humidity didn't help, but we got it done. I wish the new owner, David Weinberg many happy voyages and welcome to the "Da List". ~~~ _/) ~~~ Richard Beytagh Phone: 828 337 0180 -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Sunday morning.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 197053 bytes Desc: not available URL: From stan at generalboats.com Thu Jun 11 12:35:36 2020 From: stan at generalboats.com (stan) Date: Thu, 11 Jun 2020 12:35:36 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] trailers In-Reply-To: References: <683088386.1622218.1591887591634.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <683088386.1622218.1591887591634@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <7911c916-563b-78e6-a858-6232009aa61a@generalboats.com> Thanks Rob, Have a new one for 5K? and a used one for 3,500. Both galvanized and with our in-house upgrade. On 6/11/20 11:19 AM, Lowe, Rob wrote: > Scott, > You can certainly check with Stan at GB and see if he has anything, but Stan gets them from Triad and they are made for the R22. Check with Stan first. Maybe someone one the list has one, but that doesn't happen very often. - rob > From roger_pihlaja at msn.com Thu Jun 11 14:04:42 2020 From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA) Date: Thu, 11 Jun 2020 18:04:42 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Sanford Lake Flooding Aftermath In-Reply-To: References: , <23e46253-499a-ef84-fe25-1052b39933f2@atlanticbb.net>, , , Message-ID: Hi Rob, A guy named Frank Wixom grew up in the area around the turn of the 20th century and experienced the annual spring flooding from the Tittabawassee River. Frank went out west and made his fortune in the oil business. He came back to the area in 1905 determined to tame the mighty Tittabawassee. He spent the next 20 years acquiring the land, permits, and making a deal with Consumer?s Power for the electricity. They broke ground in 1925 on the 4 dams; Sanford, Wixom, Smallwood, and Secord. The 4 dam system went on line in 1927 producing electricity and for flood control. In the nearly 100 years since then, the population and industry along the ~35 mile stretch of river controlled by the dams has soared. Given the current economic impact and population, it?s hard to believe they would let it go back to the way things were before the dams. But, there is a growing movement to take down dams across the country in order to let the rivers ?run wild?. The 4 dams were relatively small hydroelectric dams. Wixom dam had a nominal rating of only ~4.9 megawatts and Sanford dam was a little smaller at ~4.5 megawatts. Smallwood dam and Secord dam produced even less power. So, they were mostly for flood control. This is a real hot mess that?s going to be tied up in the courts for years. I expect Boyce Hydro will be sued out of existence. The State of Michigan currently has an ~3 Billion $ tax shortfall due to the COVID-19 economic shutdown. Hopefully, the Federal government will step in and let the US Army Corps of Engineers remediate the lakes and dams and operate the new system. As much as I mistrust big government, the Feds are the only ones with sufficient resources to do the job properly. Deb & I hope we live to see it. If the class action law suits go as these things usually do, the lawyers will get rich and we will see pennies on the dollar reimbursement many years from now. Sorry, don?t mean to sound bitter. It?s been a tough month! The 2 attached photos show what?s left of the Wixom dam and the Sanford dam. There used to be a powerhouse adjacent to the flood gates in the Wixom dam similar to the red brick building on the Sanford dam; but, it?s been swept away. [cid:image002.png at 01D63FE7.825CE690] If they don?t rebuild the dams, there is actually an opportunity for white water rafting. You would put-in at the western end of Wixom dam and paddle to the blown out section of the M-30 Causeway over Wixom Lake. There is a class 3 rapids there now. For the next ~2 ? river miles, there are a series of class 2 ? 4 rapids as you follow the old Tittabawassee River bed past the wrecked Wixom dam, under the wrecked M-30 bridge in Edenville, and up to the wrecked Curtis Road bridge. South of the Curtis Road Bridge, the river bed widens out into what used to be Sanford Lake and the current slows to 2-3 mph. So, you would probably take-out on the west side of the river just upstream of the Curtis Road bridge. Needless to say, at the moment, this paddling trip would be extremely hazardous due to unstable river banks, wrecked dams & bridges, and debris in the water. Getting sucked into the wrecked Wixom dam floodgates would be the start of a bad day on the water! Also. It would be extremely difficult for rescue crews to get to you if something bad happened. Roger Pihlaja S/V Dynamic Equilibrium Sent from Mail for Windows 10 ________________________________ From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of Lowe, Rob Sent: Thursday, June 11, 2020 9:46:52 AM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Rudder-Engine Conflicts Roger, We were treated to a picture of you, but alas, can't really see you very well. The before and after pictures are startling. An yes, no reason to rebuild a dock if there is not going to be any lake. What was the purpose of the lake? Flood control? Water supply? Recreation? Hydropower? Might make a difference if it comes back or not. Keep us posted. - rob ________________________________ From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of ROGER PIHLAJA Sent: Wednesday, June 10, 2020 6:31 PM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Rudder-Engine Conflicts Allyn, OK, the rain finally let up long enough for me to slosh out to S/V Dynamic Equilibrium sitting on its trailer. The distance from the center of the rudder?s lower gudgeon to the center of the motor mount is 24 inches. If your motor mount is located much closer to the rudder than that; then, this distance might be part of your interference issue. We just got a letter from Auto-Owners regarding our home owner?s insurance coverage for our flood damage. We had no flood insurance because our house was not in the 100 year flood plain and our home owner?s insurance policy does not cover flood damage. The three attached photos show our dock before, during, and after the flood. [cid:image001.png at 01D63F51.B1FA2570] [cid:image002.png at 01D63F51.B1FA2570] Remains Of The Dock After The Flood [cid:image004.png at 01D63F55.66400510] Weather permitting, this Saturday, the same contractor that built the dock is starting a month long phase 1 project to remove the debris from our waterfront, repair our seawalls and steps, and replace the rock riprap along our shoreline. Just this phase 1 project will cost ~K$18.3. Making it look like the 1st picture will cost an additional ~K$11.7. But, until we get some assurance they are actually going to rebuild the dams, which will probably take years, we are not going to proceed with phase 2. Phase 1 will remove the debris and protect our shoreline against further erosion. But, who wants a 12? X 40? dock, complete with water, shore power, dock boxes, mooring cleats, and mooring whips, that overlooks a debris filled, mud flat, wasteland? A K$30 uninsured loss isn?t going to break us; but, OUCH! There are certainly plenty of other things we would rather spend the money on. Deb & I have joined a class action lawsuit that is suing both the State of Michigan and Boyce Hydro for damages and remediation. But, that will take years and the outcome is far from certain. I have a friend at MDOT who tells me both the M-30 bridge over the Tittabawassee River in Edenville and the M-30 causeway over Wixom Lake are going to have to be torn down and rebuilt from scratch. These 2 bridges are next on the priority list after they repair the I-10 causeway over Sanford Lake. But, this will take a year or more. Until at least one of those M-30 bridges is reopened, I will have no access to my stuff at Johnson Mini Storage. Other than that, things is dull! Good luck with your rudder/engine conflict issue, Allyn. Roger Pihlaja S/V Dynamic Equilibrium Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: ROGER PIHLAJA Sent: Wednesday, June 10, 2020 1:15 PM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Rudder-Engine Conflicts Allyn, Mary Lou Troy is correct. The rudder blade needs to be all the way down in order to clear the prop. However, your boat might have another issue. Your motor mount might be installed too far inboard. Or, your rudder might have been installed off the transom centerline to port; but, that seems very unlikely. Try this: Measure the distance from the rudder?s gudgeon centerline to the centerline of the outboard motor mount. It?s pouring cat & dogs right now, so I can?t go make that measurement on S/V Dynamic Equilibrium. But, when the rain lets up, I will go make that measurement and let you know what I find. Roger Pihlaja S/V Dynamic Equilibrium Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Mary Lou Troy Sent: Wednesday, June 10, 2020 9:27 AM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Rudder-Engine Conflicts Is your rudder pulled all the way forward with the control line on the front edge of the rudder? It sails better with it pulled forward too. Ours was close after we bought a new motor with a larger low-thrust prop but the rudder never came in contact with the prop. Hopefully someone else has had and solved the issue. Mary Lou On 6/9/2020 11:38 PM, Allyn Baskerville wrote: > Being new to the local boat club, I was assigned a slip that can be a challenging getting in and out of. I literally have 2? to spare backing up and none on the port side. I rely on the engine getting outOf the slip area, though it?s not bad pulling back into the slip. The engine doesn?t turn with the rudder, and I have to be very careful or the prop bangs on the rudder. Depending on the wind, I sometimes have to make some sharp turns. I need to fix the rudder due to prop damage, but before doing so, does anyone else have this problem? Any solutions for dealing with this? Thanks > > Sent from my iPhone -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... 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Name: DCABEF6A5D5A41F7B0FD706869A3D3E2.png Type: image/png Size: 912108 bytes Desc: DCABEF6A5D5A41F7B0FD706869A3D3E2.png URL: From sea20 at verizon.net Thu Jun 11 14:51:08 2020 From: sea20 at verizon.net (Scott Andrews) Date: Thu, 11 Jun 2020 14:51:08 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] trailers In-Reply-To: <7911c916-563b-78e6-a858-6232009aa61a@generalboats.com> References: <7911c916-563b-78e6-a858-6232009aa61a@generalboats.com> Message-ID: <0CE9ADB1-55E4-47CB-9690-A6F986E457FE@verizon.net> Thanks all, getting my budget figured out. Scott Sent from my iPhone > On Jun 11, 2020, at 12:35 PM, stan wrote: > > ?Thanks Rob, > > Have a new one for 5K and a used one for 3,500. > Both galvanized and with our in-house upgrade. > > >> On 6/11/20 11:19 AM, Lowe, Rob wrote: >> Scott, >> You can certainly check with Stan at GB and see if he has anything, but Stan gets them from Triad and they are made for the R22. Check with Stan first. Maybe someone one the list has one, but that doesn't happen very often. - rob >> > From sea20 at verizon.net Thu Jun 11 16:07:58 2020 From: sea20 at verizon.net (sea20 at verizon.net) Date: Thu, 11 Jun 2020 20:07:58 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] trailers In-Reply-To: <7911c916-563b-78e6-a858-6232009aa61a@generalboats.com> References: <683088386.1622218.1591887591634.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <683088386.1622218.1591887591634@mail.yahoo.com> <7911c916-563b-78e6-a858-6232009aa61a@generalboats.com> Message-ID: <1767423902.2963910.1591906078479@mail.yahoo.com> Thanks Stan, I didn't want to bug you with too many trivial questions. Good to know, I'm hoping to get down your way before the end of summer.? -----Original Message----- From: stan To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Sent: Thu, Jun 11, 2020 12:35 pm Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] trailers Thanks Rob, Have a new one for 5K? and a used one for 3,500. Both galvanized and with our in-house upgrade. On 6/11/20 11:19 AM, Lowe, Rob wrote: > Scott, > You can certainly check with Stan at GB and see if he has anything, but Stan gets them from Triad and they are made for the R22. Check with Stan first. Maybe someone one the list has one, but that doesn't happen very often. - rob > From jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com Sat Jun 13 21:20:31 2020 From: jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com (Jesse Shumaker) Date: Sat, 13 Jun 2020 20:20:31 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Replacing diamondboard pendant Message-ID: Hi all, My R22 was built in 1991 and refurbished in 2013 before I bought it. It appears that my boat has the diamondboard (rather than centerboard) with the direct pull line. As you can see from the attached photos, the pendant is wearing through to the point that I'm worried about it going all the way through so I want to replace the line before that happens. In the photos, I didn't quite pull the diamondboard all the way back (a little over 1" from being fully pulled up) so you can see the fraying just before it goes in the hole. Today I put some goggles on, took a deep breath and dove under the boat a few times to locate where the pendant ties on to the daggerboard. Unfortunately, our lake water is so murky that I can't really see any detail beyond that there is a diamondboard extending down from the keel. I can't even see the line, but I can feel where it ties on. From reading past posts regarding the diamondboard, it appears like 6 - 8' line should be sufficient. Does anyone recommend a specific type of line? Here's my initial thoughts on steps to replace the pendant: 1) Remove the handle from the old pendant 2) Attach the handle to the new pendant 3) Attach the new pendant to the old pendant 4) Go below and pull the old pendant and keep pulling through until I get to where the old and new pendant are attached 5) Separate the new and old pendant 6) Untie the old pendant from the diamondboard or cut it off 7) Tie the new pendant to the diamondboard using a bowline knot Some additional thoughts: There's not a lift available at our sailing club so attaching the new pendant will be an underwater adventure. Considering the visibility level in the water is so low, I'll have to be doing a lot of this by feel which means it will take longer than I can hold my breath. I'm going to see if I can borrow some scuba gear from another sailor at the club. To attach the old and new pendants together, I'll use some very small line to tie them together, or perhaps some glue and/or tape. It doesn't look like there is enough room to tie the old and new pendant together with a knot and still have it fit through the hole. I'm going to err on the side of using a longer than needed pendant line and then cut it to length up top after it has been tied in from below. Does anyone have any pictures of where the pendant connects to the diamondboard? Are there any suggestions from the group before I proceed? Thanks, Jesse Shumaker S/V Zephyr -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20200613_180407.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 497647 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20200613_180359.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 800238 bytes Desc: not available URL: From gstewart8 at cogeco.ca Sat Jun 13 22:25:00 2020 From: gstewart8 at cogeco.ca (Graham Stewart) Date: Sat, 13 Jun 2020 22:25:00 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Replacing diamondboard pendant In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <005201d641f3$035af7c0$0a10e740$@ca> Jesse: I have the older centerboard so others might well have better advice. What you suggest should work. I have never tried to do this type of work while the boat was in the water. I have always had the boat on the trailer and removed the centerboard cap - which is, admittedly, a pita. The advantage of doing it with the cap removed is that you get to inspect the centerboard for damage and check all of the blocks to make sure they are still working properly. Mine were not. My line is 12' long. It passes through a series of blocks so that when the board is down it uses quite a bit more line than you might think. In your circumstance I would not use less than 12'. Don't overlook tying the bitter end of the new line inside the boat so that you don't pull the whole line through. Use the same thickness of line as is currently installed. Given that you must pass through a series of blocks the join between the lines should be strong and flexible. If anything goes wrong - such as the line separating, you will want to have a backup plan to get the boat on its trailer while the board is down. Driving the boat onto the trailer should result in the board being lifted automatically by the keel roller but I would want to test this on your rig before committing to removing the line. Graham Stewart gstewart8 at cogeco.ca -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Jesse Shumaker Sent: Saturday, June 13, 2020 9:21 PM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Replacing diamondboard pendant Hi all, My R22 was built in 1991 and refurbished in 2013 before I bought it. It appears that my boat has the diamondboard (rather than centerboard) with the direct pull line. As you can see from the attached photos, the pendant is wearing through to the point that I'm worried about it going all the way through so I want to replace the line before that happens. In the photos, I didn't quite pull the diamondboard all the way back (a little over 1" from being fully pulled up) so you can see the fraying just before it goes in the hole. Today I put some goggles on, took a deep breath and dove under the boat a few times to locate where the pendant ties on to the daggerboard. Unfortunately, our lake water is so murky that I can't really see any detail beyond that there is a diamondboard extending down from the keel. I can't even see the line, but I can feel where it ties on. >From reading past posts regarding the diamondboard, it appears like 6 - 8' line should be sufficient. Does anyone recommend a specific type of line? Here's my initial thoughts on steps to replace the pendant: 1) Remove the handle from the old pendant 2) Attach the handle to the new pendant 3) Attach the new pendant to the old pendant 4) Go below and pull the old pendant and keep pulling through until I get to where the old and new pendant are attached 5) Separate the new and old pendant 6) Untie the old pendant from the diamondboard or cut it off 7) Tie the new pendant to the diamondboard using a bowline knot Some additional thoughts: There's not a lift available at our sailing club so attaching the new pendant will be an underwater adventure. Considering the visibility level in the water is so low, I'll have to be doing a lot of this by feel which means it will take longer than I can hold my breath. I'm going to see if I can borrow some scuba gear from another sailor at the club. To attach the old and new pendants together, I'll use some very small line to tie them together, or perhaps some glue and/or tape. It doesn't look like there is enough room to tie the old and new pendant together with a knot and still have it fit through the hole. I'm going to err on the side of using a longer than needed pendant line and then cut it to length up top after it has been tied in from below. Does anyone have any pictures of where the pendant connects to the diamondboard? Are there any suggestions from the group before I proceed? Thanks, Jesse Shumaker S/V Zephyr -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20200613_180407.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 497647 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20200613_180359.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 800238 bytes Desc: not available URL: From blue66corvette at hotmail.com Sat Jun 13 22:34:23 2020 From: blue66corvette at hotmail.com (Charles Nieman) Date: Sun, 14 Jun 2020 02:34:23 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Replacing diamondboard pendant In-Reply-To: <005201d641f3$035af7c0$0a10e740$@ca> References: , <005201d641f3$035af7c0$0a10e740$@ca> Message-ID: I?m not certain if this is a good idea or not. But a word of safety, the center board cap is lower than the waterline. If you remove the cap while the boat is in the water you will test the total floatation system. Don?t ask me how I know. Sent from my iPhone Charles Nieman > On Jun 13, 2020, at 9:25 PM, Graham Stewart wrote: > > ?Jesse: > I have the older centerboard so others might well have better advice. > > What you suggest should work. I have never tried to do this type of work while the boat was in the water. I have always had the boat on the trailer and removed the centerboard cap - which is, admittedly, a pita. The advantage of doing it with the cap removed is that you get to inspect the centerboard for damage and check all of the blocks to make sure they are still working properly. Mine were not. > > My line is 12' long. It passes through a series of blocks so that when the board is down it uses quite a bit more line than you might think. In your circumstance I would not use less than 12'. Don't overlook tying the bitter end of the new line inside the boat so that you don't pull the whole line through. > > Use the same thickness of line as is currently installed. > > Given that you must pass through a series of blocks the join between the lines should be strong and flexible. > > > If anything goes wrong - such as the line separating, you will want to have a backup plan to get the boat on its trailer while the board is down. Driving the boat onto the trailer should result in the board being lifted automatically by the keel roller but I would want to test this on your rig before committing to removing the line. > > Graham Stewart > gstewart8 at cogeco.ca > > -----Original Message----- > From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Jesse Shumaker > Sent: Saturday, June 13, 2020 9:21 PM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Replacing diamondboard pendant > > Hi all, > > My R22 was built in 1991 and refurbished in 2013 before I bought it. It > appears that my boat has the diamondboard (rather than centerboard) with > the direct pull line. As you can see from the attached photos, the pendant > is wearing through to the point that I'm worried about it going all the way > through so I want to replace the line before that happens. In the photos, > I didn't quite pull the diamondboard all the way back (a little over 1" > from being fully pulled up) so you can see the fraying just before it goes > in the hole. > > Today I put some goggles on, took a deep breath and dove under the boat a > few times to locate where the pendant ties on to the daggerboard. > Unfortunately, our lake water is so murky that I can't really see any > detail beyond that there is a diamondboard extending down from the keel. I > can't even see the line, but I can feel where it ties on. > > From reading past posts regarding the diamondboard, it appears like 6 - 8' > line should be sufficient. Does anyone recommend a specific type of line? > > Here's my initial thoughts on steps to replace the pendant: > 1) Remove the handle from the old pendant > 2) Attach the handle to the new pendant > 3) Attach the new pendant to the old pendant > 4) Go below and pull the old pendant and keep pulling through until I get > to where the old and new pendant are attached > 5) Separate the new and old pendant > 6) Untie the old pendant from the diamondboard or cut it off > 7) Tie the new pendant to the diamondboard using a bowline knot > > Some additional thoughts: > > There's not a lift available at our sailing club so attaching the new > pendant will be an underwater adventure. Considering the visibility level > in the water is so low, I'll have to be doing a lot of this by feel which > means it will take longer than I can hold my breath. I'm going to see if I > can borrow some scuba gear from another sailor at the club. > > To attach the old and new pendants together, I'll use some very small line > to tie them together, or perhaps some glue and/or tape. It doesn't look > like there is enough room to tie the old and new pendant together with a > knot and still have it fit through the hole. > > I'm going to err on the side of using a longer than needed pendant line and > then cut it to length up top after it has been tied in from below. > > Does anyone have any pictures of where the pendant connects to the > diamondboard? > > Are there any suggestions from the group before I proceed? > > Thanks, > Jesse Shumaker > S/V Zephyr > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: 20200613_180407.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 497647 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: 20200613_180359.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 800238 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: > From jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com Sat Jun 13 22:52:48 2020 From: jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com (Jesse Shumaker) Date: Sat, 13 Jun 2020 21:52:48 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Replacing diamondboard pendant In-Reply-To: References: <005201d641f3$035af7c0$0a10e740$@ca> Message-ID: Thanks for the info Charles and Graham. I hope to avoid removing the centerboard cap and if it came to that then I definitely would do it off the water based on Charles' advice. To Graham's point, I've got a Triad trailer and have tried pulling the boat onto the trailer successfully with the diamondboard extended so I should be able to get the boat on the trailer if this goes poorly. It was my understanding that the diamondboard design uses a straight through pull that avoids going through any blocks. Is that correct? I suppose another option would be to wrap the line with some tape to avoid additional fraying this season and then take it to the local sailboat shop (which has a lift) at the end of the season to do the repair while the boat is on the lift and the diamondboard can be extended. Has anyone with a diamondboard (as opposed to the old centerboard design) replaced their pendant? I assume I'm not the only person whose pendant has had significant wear. On Sat, Jun 13, 2020 at 9:34 PM Charles Nieman wrote: > I?m not certain if this is a good idea or not. But a word of safety, the > center board cap is lower than the waterline. If you remove the cap while > the boat is in the water you will test the total floatation system. > > Don?t ask me how I know. > > Sent from my iPhone > > Charles Nieman > > > > On Jun 13, 2020, at 9:25 PM, Graham Stewart wrote: > > > > ?Jesse: > > I have the older centerboard so others might well have better advice. > > > > What you suggest should work. I have never tried to do this type of work > while the boat was in the water. I have always had the boat on the trailer > and removed the centerboard cap - which is, admittedly, a pita. The > advantage of doing it with the cap removed is that you get to inspect the > centerboard for damage and check all of the blocks to make sure they are > still working properly. Mine were not. > > > > My line is 12' long. It passes through a series of blocks so that when > the board is down it uses quite a bit more line than you might think. In > your circumstance I would not use less than 12'. Don't overlook tying the > bitter end of the new line inside the boat so that you don't pull the whole > line through. > > > > Use the same thickness of line as is currently installed. > > > > Given that you must pass through a series of blocks the join between the > lines should be strong and flexible. > > > > > > If anything goes wrong - such as the line separating, you will want to > have a backup plan to get the boat on its trailer while the board is down. > Driving the boat onto the trailer should result in the board being lifted > automatically by the keel roller but I would want to test this on your rig > before committing to removing the line. > > > > Graham Stewart > > gstewart8 at cogeco.ca > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On > Behalf Of Jesse Shumaker > > Sent: Saturday, June 13, 2020 9:21 PM > > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > > Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Replacing diamondboard pendant > > > > Hi all, > > > > My R22 was built in 1991 and refurbished in 2013 before I bought it. It > > appears that my boat has the diamondboard (rather than centerboard) with > > the direct pull line. As you can see from the attached photos, the > pendant > > is wearing through to the point that I'm worried about it going all the > way > > through so I want to replace the line before that happens. In the > photos, > > I didn't quite pull the diamondboard all the way back (a little over 1" > > from being fully pulled up) so you can see the fraying just before it > goes > > in the hole. > > > > Today I put some goggles on, took a deep breath and dove under the boat a > > few times to locate where the pendant ties on to the daggerboard. > > Unfortunately, our lake water is so murky that I can't really see any > > detail beyond that there is a diamondboard extending down from the > keel. I > > can't even see the line, but I can feel where it ties on. > > > > From reading past posts regarding the diamondboard, it appears like 6 - > 8' > > line should be sufficient. Does anyone recommend a specific type of > line? > > > > Here's my initial thoughts on steps to replace the pendant: > > 1) Remove the handle from the old pendant > > 2) Attach the handle to the new pendant > > 3) Attach the new pendant to the old pendant > > 4) Go below and pull the old pendant and keep pulling through until I get > > to where the old and new pendant are attached > > 5) Separate the new and old pendant > > 6) Untie the old pendant from the diamondboard or cut it off > > 7) Tie the new pendant to the diamondboard using a bowline knot > > > > Some additional thoughts: > > > > There's not a lift available at our sailing club so attaching the new > > pendant will be an underwater adventure. Considering the visibility > level > > in the water is so low, I'll have to be doing a lot of this by feel which > > means it will take longer than I can hold my breath. I'm going to see > if I > > can borrow some scuba gear from another sailor at the club. > > > > To attach the old and new pendants together, I'll use some very small > line > > to tie them together, or perhaps some glue and/or tape. It doesn't look > > like there is enough room to tie the old and new pendant together with a > > knot and still have it fit through the hole. > > > > I'm going to err on the side of using a longer than needed pendant line > and > > then cut it to length up top after it has been tied in from below. > > > > Does anyone have any pictures of where the pendant connects to the > > diamondboard? > > > > Are there any suggestions from the group before I proceed? > > > > Thanks, > > Jesse Shumaker > > S/V Zephyr > > -------------- next part -------------- > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > Name: 20200613_180407.jpg > > Type: image/jpeg > > Size: 497647 bytes > > Desc: not available > > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200613/40791568/attachment.jpg > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > Name: 20200613_180359.jpg > > Type: image/jpeg > > Size: 800238 bytes > > Desc: not available > > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200613/40791568/attachment-0001.jpg > > > > > From sloopblueheron at gmail.com Sat Jun 13 22:55:19 2020 From: sloopblueheron at gmail.com (Rick Lange) Date: Sat, 13 Jun 2020 22:55:19 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Replacing diamondboard pendant In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Jesse, If your boat stays wet all season, why do you have to pull the board up? If you need to knock off mussels, just pull it up and down a couple inches each week. Replace the pennant more easily when the boat is hauled out. There isn't enough room to pull through the knot tying together the old and new pennants. Use fishing line as a threader. Regards, Rick Lange On Sat, Jun 13, 2020 at 9:20 PM Jesse Shumaker < jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com> wrote: > Hi all, > > My R22 was built in 1991 and refurbished in 2013 before I bought it. It > appears that my boat has the diamondboard (rather than centerboard) with > the direct pull line. As you can see from the attached photos, the pendant > is wearing through to the point that I'm worried about it going all the way > through so I want to replace the line before that happens. In the photos, > I didn't quite pull the diamondboard all the way back (a little over 1" > from being fully pulled up) so you can see the fraying just before it goes > in the hole. > > Today I put some goggles on, took a deep breath and dove under the boat a > few times to locate where the pendant ties on to the daggerboard. > Unfortunately, our lake water is so murky that I can't really see any > detail beyond that there is a diamondboard extending down from the keel. I > can't even see the line, but I can feel where it ties on. > > From reading past posts regarding the diamondboard, it appears like 6 - 8' > line should be sufficient. Does anyone recommend a specific type of line? > > Here's my initial thoughts on steps to replace the pendant: > 1) Remove the handle from the old pendant > 2) Attach the handle to the new pendant > 3) Attach the new pendant to the old pendant > 4) Go below and pull the old pendant and keep pulling through until I get > to where the old and new pendant are attached > 5) Separate the new and old pendant > 6) Untie the old pendant from the diamondboard or cut it off > 7) Tie the new pendant to the diamondboard using a bowline knot > > Some additional thoughts: > > There's not a lift available at our sailing club so attaching the new > pendant will be an underwater adventure. Considering the visibility level > in the water is so low, I'll have to be doing a lot of this by feel which > means it will take longer than I can hold my breath. I'm going to see if I > can borrow some scuba gear from another sailor at the club. > > To attach the old and new pendants together, I'll use some very small line > to tie them together, or perhaps some glue and/or tape. It doesn't look > like there is enough room to tie the old and new pendant together with a > knot and still have it fit through the hole. > > I'm going to err on the side of using a longer than needed pendant line and > then cut it to length up top after it has been tied in from below. > > Does anyone have any pictures of where the pendant connects to the > diamondboard? > > Are there any suggestions from the group before I proceed? > > Thanks, > Jesse Shumaker > S/V Zephyr > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: 20200613_180407.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 497647 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200613/40791568/attachment.jpg > > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: 20200613_180359.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 800238 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200613/40791568/attachment-0001.jpg > > > From jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com Sun Jun 14 07:32:03 2020 From: jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com (Jesse Shumaker) Date: Sun, 14 Jun 2020 06:32:03 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Replacing diamondboard pendant In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi Rick, thanks for your input. I like your idea to use the fishing as a threader and I plan to do that. I have been pulling up the board when in my slip because the boat gets some side to side roll and the board can knock around a bit. Also, I pull up the board at least part way when I am pulling in my slip when wind is coming off the lake at my stern. I go past my slip just a bit and then quickly turn to head up into the wind slightly before turning into my slip. It gets pretty shallow past my slip (there's only one more boat towards the beach after mine) so pulling up the board lessens the draft to give some room when executing that maneuver. I might hold off on replacing the pennant until it is hauled out as suggested. Until then, when I need to pull up the board, I suppose that I could just pull it up part of the way so the frayed portion of the line is not resting in the cleat. On Sat, Jun 13, 2020 at 9:56 PM Rick Lange wrote: > Jesse, > > If your boat stays wet all season, why do you have to pull the board up? > If you need to knock off mussels, just pull it up and down a couple inches > each week. Replace the pennant more easily when the boat is hauled out. > > There isn't enough room to pull through the knot tying together the old and > new pennants. Use fishing line as a threader. > > Regards, > > Rick Lange > > > On Sat, Jun 13, 2020 at 9:20 PM Jesse Shumaker < > jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com> wrote: > > > Hi all, > > > > My R22 was built in 1991 and refurbished in 2013 before I bought it. It > > appears that my boat has the diamondboard (rather than centerboard) with > > the direct pull line. As you can see from the attached photos, the > pendant > > is wearing through to the point that I'm worried about it going all the > way > > through so I want to replace the line before that happens. In the > photos, > > I didn't quite pull the diamondboard all the way back (a little over 1" > > from being fully pulled up) so you can see the fraying just before it > goes > > in the hole. > > > > Today I put some goggles on, took a deep breath and dove under the boat a > > few times to locate where the pendant ties on to the daggerboard. > > Unfortunately, our lake water is so murky that I can't really see any > > detail beyond that there is a diamondboard extending down from the > keel. I > > can't even see the line, but I can feel where it ties on. > > > > From reading past posts regarding the diamondboard, it appears like 6 - > 8' > > line should be sufficient. Does anyone recommend a specific type of > line? > > > > Here's my initial thoughts on steps to replace the pendant: > > 1) Remove the handle from the old pendant > > 2) Attach the handle to the new pendant > > 3) Attach the new pendant to the old pendant > > 4) Go below and pull the old pendant and keep pulling through until I get > > to where the old and new pendant are attached > > 5) Separate the new and old pendant > > 6) Untie the old pendant from the diamondboard or cut it off > > 7) Tie the new pendant to the diamondboard using a bowline knot > > > > Some additional thoughts: > > > > There's not a lift available at our sailing club so attaching the new > > pendant will be an underwater adventure. Considering the visibility > level > > in the water is so low, I'll have to be doing a lot of this by feel which > > means it will take longer than I can hold my breath. I'm going to see > if I > > can borrow some scuba gear from another sailor at the club. > > > > To attach the old and new pendants together, I'll use some very small > line > > to tie them together, or perhaps some glue and/or tape. It doesn't look > > like there is enough room to tie the old and new pendant together with a > > knot and still have it fit through the hole. > > > > I'm going to err on the side of using a longer than needed pendant line > and > > then cut it to length up top after it has been tied in from below. > > > > Does anyone have any pictures of where the pendant connects to the > > diamondboard? > > > > Are there any suggestions from the group before I proceed? > > > > Thanks, > > Jesse Shumaker > > S/V Zephyr > > -------------- next part -------------- > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > Name: 20200613_180407.jpg > > Type: image/jpeg > > Size: 497647 bytes > > Desc: not available > > URL: < > > > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200613/40791568/attachment.jpg > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > Name: 20200613_180359.jpg > > Type: image/jpeg > > Size: 800238 bytes > > Desc: not available > > URL: < > > > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200613/40791568/attachment-0001.jpg > > > > > > From ric at stottarchitecture.com Sun Jun 14 07:58:28 2020 From: ric at stottarchitecture.com (Ric Stott) Date: Sun, 14 Jun 2020 07:58:28 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Replacing diamondboard pendant In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: If you carefully tape the new line to old with electrical tape, but end to but end you should be able to pull a new line through, even if yo have the old style CB with blocks. Be sure to use flexible line of the same diameter. One observation of you photo at the frayed line. You are missing a plastic flange to the top of the pendant hole in the fiberglass. The flange is rounded and helps prevent the wear you are observing. Lastly. You have some time before the pendant wears thru. Ric Dadventure HBNY Sent from my iPhone > On Jun 14, 2020, at 7:32 AM, Jesse Shumaker wrote: > > ?Hi Rick, thanks for your input. I like your idea to use the fishing as a > threader and I plan to do that. > > I have been pulling up the board when in my slip because the boat gets some > side to side roll and the board can knock around a bit. Also, I pull up > the board at least part way when I am pulling in my slip when wind is > coming off the lake at my stern. I go past my slip just a bit and then > quickly turn to head up into the wind slightly before turning into my > slip. It gets pretty shallow past my slip (there's only one more boat > towards the beach after mine) so pulling up the board lessens the draft to > give some room when executing that maneuver. > > I might hold off on replacing the pennant until it is hauled out as > suggested. Until then, when I need to pull up the board, I suppose that I > could just pull it up part of the way so the frayed portion of the line is > not resting in the cleat. > >> On Sat, Jun 13, 2020 at 9:56 PM Rick Lange wrote: >> >> Jesse, >> >> If your boat stays wet all season, why do you have to pull the board up? >> If you need to knock off mussels, just pull it up and down a couple inches >> each week. Replace the pennant more easily when the boat is hauled out. >> >> There isn't enough room to pull through the knot tying together the old and >> new pennants. Use fishing line as a threader. >> >> Regards, >> >> Rick Lange >> >> >> On Sat, Jun 13, 2020 at 9:20 PM Jesse Shumaker < >> jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com> wrote: >> >>> Hi all, >>> >>> My R22 was built in 1991 and refurbished in 2013 before I bought it. It >>> appears that my boat has the diamondboard (rather than centerboard) with >>> the direct pull line. As you can see from the attached photos, the >> pendant >>> is wearing through to the point that I'm worried about it going all the >> way >>> through so I want to replace the line before that happens. In the >> photos, >>> I didn't quite pull the diamondboard all the way back (a little over 1" >>> from being fully pulled up) so you can see the fraying just before it >> goes >>> in the hole. >>> >>> Today I put some goggles on, took a deep breath and dove under the boat a >>> few times to locate where the pendant ties on to the daggerboard. >>> Unfortunately, our lake water is so murky that I can't really see any >>> detail beyond that there is a diamondboard extending down from the >> keel. I >>> can't even see the line, but I can feel where it ties on. >>> >>> From reading past posts regarding the diamondboard, it appears like 6 - >> 8' >>> line should be sufficient. Does anyone recommend a specific type of >> line? >>> >>> Here's my initial thoughts on steps to replace the pendant: >>> 1) Remove the handle from the old pendant >>> 2) Attach the handle to the new pendant >>> 3) Attach the new pendant to the old pendant >>> 4) Go below and pull the old pendant and keep pulling through until I get >>> to where the old and new pendant are attached >>> 5) Separate the new and old pendant >>> 6) Untie the old pendant from the diamondboard or cut it off >>> 7) Tie the new pendant to the diamondboard using a bowline knot >>> >>> Some additional thoughts: >>> >>> There's not a lift available at our sailing club so attaching the new >>> pendant will be an underwater adventure. Considering the visibility >> level >>> in the water is so low, I'll have to be doing a lot of this by feel which >>> means it will take longer than I can hold my breath. I'm going to see >> if I >>> can borrow some scuba gear from another sailor at the club. >>> >>> To attach the old and new pendants together, I'll use some very small >> line >>> to tie them together, or perhaps some glue and/or tape. It doesn't look >>> like there is enough room to tie the old and new pendant together with a >>> knot and still have it fit through the hole. >>> >>> I'm going to err on the side of using a longer than needed pendant line >> and >>> then cut it to length up top after it has been tied in from below. >>> >>> Does anyone have any pictures of where the pendant connects to the >>> diamondboard? >>> >>> Are there any suggestions from the group before I proceed? >>> >>> Thanks, >>> Jesse Shumaker >>> S/V Zephyr >>> -------------- next part -------------- >>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >>> Name: 20200613_180407.jpg >>> Type: image/jpeg >>> Size: 497647 bytes >>> Desc: not available >>> URL: < >>> >> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200613/40791568/attachment.jpg >>>> >>> -------------- next part -------------- >>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >>> Name: 20200613_180359.jpg >>> Type: image/jpeg >>> Size: 800238 bytes >>> Desc: not available >>> URL: < >>> >> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200613/40791568/attachment-0001.jpg >>>> >>> >> From gstewart8 at cogeco.ca Sun Jun 14 08:08:47 2020 From: gstewart8 at cogeco.ca (Graham Stewart) Date: Sun, 14 Jun 2020 08:08:47 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Replacing diamondboard pendant In-Reply-To: References: <005201d641f3$035af7c0$0a10e740$@ca> Message-ID: <005301d64244$915d2ba0$b41782e0$@ca> Jesse: If the diamond board does not have blocks for the line to pass through then your approach would seem to be much less problematic. If it doesn't work as expected and you have to put it on land or a lift you are no worse off so long as you are ready for that contingency. I wonder why the line is fraying so much. Perhaps you should replace it with something that is more abrasive resistant. Graham Stewart gstewart8 at cogeco.ca -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Jesse Shumaker Sent: Saturday, June 13, 2020 10:53 PM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Replacing diamondboard pendant Thanks for the info Charles and Graham. I hope to avoid removing the centerboard cap and if it came to that then I definitely would do it off the water based on Charles' advice. To Graham's point, I've got a Triad trailer and have tried pulling the boat onto the trailer successfully with the diamondboard extended so I should be able to get the boat on the trailer if this goes poorly. It was my understanding that the diamondboard design uses a straight through pull that avoids going through any blocks. Is that correct? I suppose another option would be to wrap the line with some tape to avoid additional fraying this season and then take it to the local sailboat shop (which has a lift) at the end of the season to do the repair while the boat is on the lift and the diamondboard can be extended. Has anyone with a diamondboard (as opposed to the old centerboard design) replaced their pendant? I assume I'm not the only person whose pendant has had significant wear. On Sat, Jun 13, 2020 at 9:34 PM Charles Nieman wrote: > I?m not certain if this is a good idea or not. But a word of safety, the > center board cap is lower than the waterline. If you remove the cap while > the boat is in the water you will test the total floatation system. > > Don?t ask me how I know. > > Sent from my iPhone > > Charles Nieman > > > > On Jun 13, 2020, at 9:25 PM, Graham Stewart wrote: > > > > ?Jesse: > > I have the older centerboard so others might well have better advice. > > > > What you suggest should work. I have never tried to do this type of work > while the boat was in the water. I have always had the boat on the trailer > and removed the centerboard cap - which is, admittedly, a pita. The > advantage of doing it with the cap removed is that you get to inspect the > centerboard for damage and check all of the blocks to make sure they are > still working properly. Mine were not. > > > > My line is 12' long. It passes through a series of blocks so that when > the board is down it uses quite a bit more line than you might think. In > your circumstance I would not use less than 12'. Don't overlook tying the > bitter end of the new line inside the boat so that you don't pull the whole > line through. > > > > Use the same thickness of line as is currently installed. > > > > Given that you must pass through a series of blocks the join between the > lines should be strong and flexible. > > > > > > If anything goes wrong - such as the line separating, you will want to > have a backup plan to get the boat on its trailer while the board is down. > Driving the boat onto the trailer should result in the board being lifted > automatically by the keel roller but I would want to test this on your rig > before committing to removing the line. > > > > Graham Stewart > > gstewart8 at cogeco.ca > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On > Behalf Of Jesse Shumaker > > Sent: Saturday, June 13, 2020 9:21 PM > > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > > Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Replacing diamondboard pendant > > > > Hi all, > > > > My R22 was built in 1991 and refurbished in 2013 before I bought it. It > > appears that my boat has the diamondboard (rather than centerboard) with > > the direct pull line. As you can see from the attached photos, the > pendant > > is wearing through to the point that I'm worried about it going all the > way > > through so I want to replace the line before that happens. In the > photos, > > I didn't quite pull the diamondboard all the way back (a little over 1" > > from being fully pulled up) so you can see the fraying just before it > goes > > in the hole. > > > > Today I put some goggles on, took a deep breath and dove under the boat a > > few times to locate where the pendant ties on to the daggerboard. > > Unfortunately, our lake water is so murky that I can't really see any > > detail beyond that there is a diamondboard extending down from the > keel. I > > can't even see the line, but I can feel where it ties on. > > > > From reading past posts regarding the diamondboard, it appears like 6 - > 8' > > line should be sufficient. Does anyone recommend a specific type of > line? > > > > Here's my initial thoughts on steps to replace the pendant: > > 1) Remove the handle from the old pendant > > 2) Attach the handle to the new pendant > > 3) Attach the new pendant to the old pendant > > 4) Go below and pull the old pendant and keep pulling through until I get > > to where the old and new pendant are attached > > 5) Separate the new and old pendant > > 6) Untie the old pendant from the diamondboard or cut it off > > 7) Tie the new pendant to the diamondboard using a bowline knot > > > > Some additional thoughts: > > > > There's not a lift available at our sailing club so attaching the new > > pendant will be an underwater adventure. Considering the visibility > level > > in the water is so low, I'll have to be doing a lot of this by feel which > > means it will take longer than I can hold my breath. I'm going to see > if I > > can borrow some scuba gear from another sailor at the club. > > > > To attach the old and new pendants together, I'll use some very small > line > > to tie them together, or perhaps some glue and/or tape. It doesn't look > > like there is enough room to tie the old and new pendant together with a > > knot and still have it fit through the hole. > > > > I'm going to err on the side of using a longer than needed pendant line > and > > then cut it to length up top after it has been tied in from below. > > > > Does anyone have any pictures of where the pendant connects to the > > diamondboard? > > > > Are there any suggestions from the group before I proceed? > > > > Thanks, > > Jesse Shumaker > > S/V Zephyr > > -------------- next part -------------- > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > Name: 20200613_180407.jpg > > Type: image/jpeg > > Size: 497647 bytes > > Desc: not available > > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200613/40791568/attachment.jpg > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > Name: 20200613_180359.jpg > > Type: image/jpeg > > Size: 800238 bytes > > Desc: not available > > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200613/40791568/attachment-0001.jpg > > > > > From jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com Sun Jun 14 10:23:40 2020 From: jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com (Jesse Shumaker) Date: Sun, 14 Jun 2020 09:23:40 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Replacing diamondboard pendant In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Ric, thanks for the note regarding the flange. I will address that as well. It is good to know that it looks like I have some time before the pendant parts in two. The guy at our sailing club with the SCUBA gear is out of town until late August or early September so this will be a project for late in the season. Until then, I'll avoid cleating where it is wearing through. On Sun, Jun 14, 2020 at 6:58 AM Ric Stott wrote: > If you carefully tape the new line to old with electrical tape, but end to > but end you should be able to pull a new line through, even if yo have the > old style CB with blocks. Be sure to use flexible line of the same > diameter. > One observation of you photo at the frayed line. You are missing a plastic > flange to the top of the pendant hole in the fiberglass. The flange is > rounded and helps prevent the wear you are observing. Lastly. You have > some time before the pendant wears thru. > Ric > Dadventure > HBNY > > Sent from my iPhone > > > On Jun 14, 2020, at 7:32 AM, Jesse Shumaker < > jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com> wrote: > > > > ?Hi Rick, thanks for your input. I like your idea to use the fishing as > a > > threader and I plan to do that. > > > > I have been pulling up the board when in my slip because the boat gets > some > > side to side roll and the board can knock around a bit. Also, I pull up > > the board at least part way when I am pulling in my slip when wind is > > coming off the lake at my stern. I go past my slip just a bit and then > > quickly turn to head up into the wind slightly before turning into my > > slip. It gets pretty shallow past my slip (there's only one more boat > > towards the beach after mine) so pulling up the board lessens the draft > to > > give some room when executing that maneuver. > > > > I might hold off on replacing the pennant until it is hauled out as > > suggested. Until then, when I need to pull up the board, I suppose that > I > > could just pull it up part of the way so the frayed portion of the line > is > > not resting in the cleat. > > > >> On Sat, Jun 13, 2020 at 9:56 PM Rick Lange > wrote: > >> > >> Jesse, > >> > >> If your boat stays wet all season, why do you have to pull the board up? > >> If you need to knock off mussels, just pull it up and down a couple > inches > >> each week. Replace the pennant more easily when the boat is hauled out. > >> > >> There isn't enough room to pull through the knot tying together the old > and > >> new pennants. Use fishing line as a threader. > >> > >> Regards, > >> > >> Rick Lange > >> > >> > >> On Sat, Jun 13, 2020 at 9:20 PM Jesse Shumaker < > >> jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com> wrote: > >> > >>> Hi all, > >>> > >>> My R22 was built in 1991 and refurbished in 2013 before I bought it. > It > >>> appears that my boat has the diamondboard (rather than centerboard) > with > >>> the direct pull line. As you can see from the attached photos, the > >> pendant > >>> is wearing through to the point that I'm worried about it going all the > >> way > >>> through so I want to replace the line before that happens. In the > >> photos, > >>> I didn't quite pull the diamondboard all the way back (a little over 1" > >>> from being fully pulled up) so you can see the fraying just before it > >> goes > >>> in the hole. > >>> > >>> Today I put some goggles on, took a deep breath and dove under the > boat a > >>> few times to locate where the pendant ties on to the daggerboard. > >>> Unfortunately, our lake water is so murky that I can't really see any > >>> detail beyond that there is a diamondboard extending down from the > >> keel. I > >>> can't even see the line, but I can feel where it ties on. > >>> > >>> From reading past posts regarding the diamondboard, it appears like 6 - > >> 8' > >>> line should be sufficient. Does anyone recommend a specific type of > >> line? > >>> > >>> Here's my initial thoughts on steps to replace the pendant: > >>> 1) Remove the handle from the old pendant > >>> 2) Attach the handle to the new pendant > >>> 3) Attach the new pendant to the old pendant > >>> 4) Go below and pull the old pendant and keep pulling through until I > get > >>> to where the old and new pendant are attached > >>> 5) Separate the new and old pendant > >>> 6) Untie the old pendant from the diamondboard or cut it off > >>> 7) Tie the new pendant to the diamondboard using a bowline knot > >>> > >>> Some additional thoughts: > >>> > >>> There's not a lift available at our sailing club so attaching the new > >>> pendant will be an underwater adventure. Considering the visibility > >> level > >>> in the water is so low, I'll have to be doing a lot of this by feel > which > >>> means it will take longer than I can hold my breath. I'm going to see > >> if I > >>> can borrow some scuba gear from another sailor at the club. > >>> > >>> To attach the old and new pendants together, I'll use some very small > >> line > >>> to tie them together, or perhaps some glue and/or tape. It doesn't > look > >>> like there is enough room to tie the old and new pendant together with > a > >>> knot and still have it fit through the hole. > >>> > >>> I'm going to err on the side of using a longer than needed pendant line > >> and > >>> then cut it to length up top after it has been tied in from below. > >>> > >>> Does anyone have any pictures of where the pendant connects to the > >>> diamondboard? > >>> > >>> Are there any suggestions from the group before I proceed? > >>> > >>> Thanks, > >>> Jesse Shumaker > >>> S/V Zephyr > >>> -------------- next part -------------- > >>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > >>> Name: 20200613_180407.jpg > >>> Type: image/jpeg > >>> Size: 497647 bytes > >>> Desc: not available > >>> URL: < > >>> > >> > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200613/40791568/attachment.jpg > >>>> > >>> -------------- next part -------------- > >>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > >>> Name: 20200613_180359.jpg > >>> Type: image/jpeg > >>> Size: 800238 bytes > >>> Desc: not available > >>> URL: < > >>> > >> > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200613/40791568/attachment-0001.jpg > >>>> > >>> > >> > From roger_pihlaja at msn.com Sun Jun 14 13:01:09 2020 From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA) Date: Sun, 14 Jun 2020 17:01:09 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Replacing diamondboard pendant In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: Hi All, FYI, the use of a smaller line to establish a path for a larger line is called ?sending a messenger line?. The term comes from the old days of sailing when a small cannon was used to fire the messenger line from one ship to another or from the beach to a foundering ship, to be followed up with the larger line. The technique is still used right up to this day to rig up hose from a tanker to another ship for refueling at sea. Even nuclear powered aircraft carriers need regular deliveries of jet fuel for their aircraft. Roger Pihlaja S/V Dynamic Equilibrium Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Jesse Shumaker Sent: Sunday, June 14, 2020 10:23 AM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Replacing diamondboard pendant Ric, thanks for the note regarding the flange. I will address that as well. It is good to know that it looks like I have some time before the pendant parts in two. The guy at our sailing club with the SCUBA gear is out of town until late August or early September so this will be a project for late in the season. Until then, I'll avoid cleating where it is wearing through. On Sun, Jun 14, 2020 at 6:58 AM Ric Stott wrote: > If you carefully tape the new line to old with electrical tape, but end to > but end you should be able to pull a new line through, even if yo have the > old style CB with blocks. Be sure to use flexible line of the same > diameter. > One observation of you photo at the frayed line. You are missing a plastic > flange to the top of the pendant hole in the fiberglass. The flange is > rounded and helps prevent the wear you are observing. Lastly. You have > some time before the pendant wears thru. > Ric > Dadventure > HBNY > > Sent from my iPhone > > > On Jun 14, 2020, at 7:32 AM, Jesse Shumaker < > jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com> wrote: > > > > ?Hi Rick, thanks for your input. I like your idea to use the fishing as > a > > threader and I plan to do that. > > > > I have been pulling up the board when in my slip because the boat gets > some > > side to side roll and the board can knock around a bit. Also, I pull up > > the board at least part way when I am pulling in my slip when wind is > > coming off the lake at my stern. I go past my slip just a bit and then > > quickly turn to head up into the wind slightly before turning into my > > slip. It gets pretty shallow past my slip (there's only one more boat > > towards the beach after mine) so pulling up the board lessens the draft > to > > give some room when executing that maneuver. > > > > I might hold off on replacing the pennant until it is hauled out as > > suggested. Until then, when I need to pull up the board, I suppose that > I > > could just pull it up part of the way so the frayed portion of the line > is > > not resting in the cleat. > > > >> On Sat, Jun 13, 2020 at 9:56 PM Rick Lange > wrote: > >> > >> Jesse, > >> > >> If your boat stays wet all season, why do you have to pull the board up? > >> If you need to knock off mussels, just pull it up and down a couple > inches > >> each week. Replace the pennant more easily when the boat is hauled out. > >> > >> There isn't enough room to pull through the knot tying together the old > and > >> new pennants. Use fishing line as a threader. > >> > >> Regards, > >> > >> Rick Lange > >> > >> > >> On Sat, Jun 13, 2020 at 9:20 PM Jesse Shumaker < > >> jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com> wrote: > >> > >>> Hi all, > >>> > >>> My R22 was built in 1991 and refurbished in 2013 before I bought it. > It > >>> appears that my boat has the diamondboard (rather than centerboard) > with > >>> the direct pull line. As you can see from the attached photos, the > >> pendant > >>> is wearing through to the point that I'm worried about it going all the > >> way > >>> through so I want to replace the line before that happens. In the > >> photos, > >>> I didn't quite pull the diamondboard all the way back (a little over 1" > >>> from being fully pulled up) so you can see the fraying just before it > >> goes > >>> in the hole. > >>> > >>> Today I put some goggles on, took a deep breath and dove under the > boat a > >>> few times to locate where the pendant ties on to the daggerboard. > >>> Unfortunately, our lake water is so murky that I can't really see any > >>> detail beyond that there is a diamondboard extending down from the > >> keel. I > >>> can't even see the line, but I can feel where it ties on. > >>> > >>> From reading past posts regarding the diamondboard, it appears like 6 - > >> 8' > >>> line should be sufficient. Does anyone recommend a specific type of > >> line? > >>> > >>> Here's my initial thoughts on steps to replace the pendant: > >>> 1) Remove the handle from the old pendant > >>> 2) Attach the handle to the new pendant > >>> 3) Attach the new pendant to the old pendant > >>> 4) Go below and pull the old pendant and keep pulling through until I > get > >>> to where the old and new pendant are attached > >>> 5) Separate the new and old pendant > >>> 6) Untie the old pendant from the diamondboard or cut it off > >>> 7) Tie the new pendant to the diamondboard using a bowline knot > >>> > >>> Some additional thoughts: > >>> > >>> There's not a lift available at our sailing club so attaching the new > >>> pendant will be an underwater adventure. Considering the visibility > >> level > >>> in the water is so low, I'll have to be doing a lot of this by feel > which > >>> means it will take longer than I can hold my breath. I'm going to see > >> if I > >>> can borrow some scuba gear from another sailor at the club. > >>> > >>> To attach the old and new pendants together, I'll use some very small > >> line > >>> to tie them together, or perhaps some glue and/or tape. It doesn't > look > >>> like there is enough room to tie the old and new pendant together with > a > >>> knot and still have it fit through the hole. > >>> > >>> I'm going to err on the side of using a longer than needed pendant line > >> and > >>> then cut it to length up top after it has been tied in from below. > >>> > >>> Does anyone have any pictures of where the pendant connects to the > >>> diamondboard? > >>> > >>> Are there any suggestions from the group before I proceed? > >>> > >>> Thanks, > >>> Jesse Shumaker > >>> S/V Zephyr > >>> -------------- next part -------------- > >>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > >>> Name: 20200613_180407.jpg > >>> Type: image/jpeg > >>> Size: 497647 bytes > >>> Desc: not available > >>> URL: < > >>> > >> > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200613/40791568/attachment.jpg > >>>> > >>> -------------- next part -------------- > >>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > >>> Name: 20200613_180359.jpg > >>> Type: image/jpeg > >>> Size: 800238 bytes > >>> Desc: not available > >>> URL: < > >>> > >> > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200613/40791568/attachment-0001.jpg > >>>> > >>> > >> > From john_carlson at mac.com Sun Jun 14 16:10:30 2020 From: john_carlson at mac.com (John Carlson) Date: Sun, 14 Jun 2020 15:10:30 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Replacing diamondboard pendant In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Well, this is a timely question ? I just tightened that last of the 54 bolts holding the centerboard cap in place last night (my boat isn?t in the water). For the second time. I do have some pics. My diamond board was in rough shape. I don?t think it liked Lake Waco. I am not sure what the best way to attach images is. I am going to try attaching them to this message, but I?ve also shared them on Dropbox here (zipped together): https://www.dropbox.com/s/7tum1gvszoc8eom/rhodes-centerboard.zip?dl=0 While I am sure this can be done underwater, I am not sure I would be brave enough to try it with zero visibility. Taking the centerboard cap off and lifting the diamond board out should be done out of the water. It isn?t easy either, but you can see what you are doing. John Carlson Lillipelli 2004 (recycled 2012) > On Jun 13, 2020, at 9:25 PM, Graham Stewart > wrote: > > Jesse: > I have the older centerboard so others might well have better advice. > > What you suggest should work. I have never tried to do this type of work while the boat was in the water. I have always had the boat on the trailer and removed the centerboard cap - which is, admittedly, a pita. The advantage of doing it with the cap removed is that you get to inspect the centerboard for damage and check all of the blocks to make sure they are still working properly. Mine were not. > > My line is 12' long. It passes through a series of blocks so that when the board is down it uses quite a bit more line than you might think. In your circumstance I would not use less than 12'. Don't overlook tying the bitter end of the new line inside the boat so that you don't pull the whole line through. > > Use the same thickness of line as is currently installed. > > Given that you must pass through a series of blocks the join between the lines should be strong and flexible. > > > If anything goes wrong - such as the line separating, you will want to have a backup plan to get the boat on its trailer while the board is down. Driving the boat onto the trailer should result in the board being lifted automatically by the keel roller but I would want to test this on your rig before committing to removing the line. > > Graham Stewart > gstewart8 at cogeco.ca > > -----Original Message----- > From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org ] On Behalf Of Jesse Shumaker > Sent: Saturday, June 13, 2020 9:21 PM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Replacing diamondboard pendant > > Hi all, > > My R22 was built in 1991 and refurbished in 2013 before I bought it. It > appears that my boat has the diamondboard (rather than centerboard) with > the direct pull line. As you can see from the attached photos, the pendant > is wearing through to the point that I'm worried about it going all the way > through so I want to replace the line before that happens. In the photos, > I didn't quite pull the diamondboard all the way back (a little over 1" > from being fully pulled up) so you can see the fraying just before it goes > in the hole. > > Today I put some goggles on, took a deep breath and dove under the boat a > few times to locate where the pendant ties on to the daggerboard. > Unfortunately, our lake water is so murky that I can't really see any > detail beyond that there is a diamondboard extending down from the keel. I > can't even see the line, but I can feel where it ties on. > > From reading past posts regarding the diamondboard, it appears like 6 - 8' > line should be sufficient. Does anyone recommend a specific type of line? > > Here's my initial thoughts on steps to replace the pendant: > 1) Remove the handle from the old pendant > 2) Attach the handle to the new pendant > 3) Attach the new pendant to the old pendant > 4) Go below and pull the old pendant and keep pulling through until I get > to where the old and new pendant are attached > 5) Separate the new and old pendant > 6) Untie the old pendant from the diamondboard or cut it off > 7) Tie the new pendant to the diamondboard using a bowline knot > > Some additional thoughts: > > There's not a lift available at our sailing club so attaching the new > pendant will be an underwater adventure. Considering the visibility level > in the water is so low, I'll have to be doing a lot of this by feel which > means it will take longer than I can hold my breath. I'm going to see if I > can borrow some scuba gear from another sailor at the club. > > To attach the old and new pendants together, I'll use some very small line > to tie them together, or perhaps some glue and/or tape. It doesn't look > like there is enough room to tie the old and new pendant together with a > knot and still have it fit through the hole. > > I'm going to err on the side of using a longer than needed pendant line and > then cut it to length up top after it has been tied in from below. > > Does anyone have any pictures of where the pendant connects to the > diamondboard? > > Are there any suggestions from the group before I proceed? > > Thanks, > Jesse Shumaker > S/V Zephyr > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: 20200613_180407.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 497647 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: 20200613_180359.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 800238 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: > > > On Jun 14, 2020, at 12:01 PM, ROGER PIHLAJA wrote: > > Hi All, > > FYI, the use of a smaller line to establish a path for a larger line is called ?sending a messenger line?. The term comes from the old days of sailing when a small cannon was used to fire the messenger line from one ship to another or from the beach to a foundering ship, to be followed up with the larger line. The technique is still used right up to this day to rig up hose from a tanker to another ship for refueling at sea. Even nuclear powered aircraft carriers need regular deliveries of jet fuel for their aircraft. > > Roger Pihlaja > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium > > Sent from Mail> for Windows 10 > > From: Jesse Shumaker > Sent: Sunday, June 14, 2020 10:23 AM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Replacing diamondboard pendant > > Ric, thanks for the note regarding the flange. I will address that as > well. It is good to know that it looks like I have some time before the > pendant parts in two. The guy at our sailing club with the SCUBA gear is > out of town until late August or early September so this will be a project > for late in the season. Until then, I'll avoid cleating where it is > wearing through. > > On Sun, Jun 14, 2020 at 6:58 AM Ric Stott wrote: > >> If you carefully tape the new line to old with electrical tape, but end to >> but end you should be able to pull a new line through, even if yo have the >> old style CB with blocks. Be sure to use flexible line of the same >> diameter. >> One observation of you photo at the frayed line. You are missing a plastic >> flange to the top of the pendant hole in the fiberglass. The flange is >> rounded and helps prevent the wear you are observing. Lastly. You have >> some time before the pendant wears thru. >> Ric >> Dadventure >> HBNY >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >>> On Jun 14, 2020, at 7:32 AM, Jesse Shumaker < >> jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com> wrote: >>> >>> ?Hi Rick, thanks for your input. I like your idea to use the fishing as >> a >>> threader and I plan to do that. >>> >>> I have been pulling up the board when in my slip because the boat gets >> some >>> side to side roll and the board can knock around a bit. Also, I pull up >>> the board at least part way when I am pulling in my slip when wind is >>> coming off the lake at my stern. I go past my slip just a bit and then >>> quickly turn to head up into the wind slightly before turning into my >>> slip. It gets pretty shallow past my slip (there's only one more boat >>> towards the beach after mine) so pulling up the board lessens the draft >> to >>> give some room when executing that maneuver. >>> >>> I might hold off on replacing the pennant until it is hauled out as >>> suggested. Until then, when I need to pull up the board, I suppose that >> I >>> could just pull it up part of the way so the frayed portion of the line >> is >>> not resting in the cleat. >>> >>>> On Sat, Jun 13, 2020 at 9:56 PM Rick Lange >> wrote: >>>> >>>> Jesse, >>>> >>>> If your boat stays wet all season, why do you have to pull the board up? >>>> If you need to knock off mussels, just pull it up and down a couple >> inches >>>> each week. Replace the pennant more easily when the boat is hauled out. >>>> >>>> There isn't enough room to pull through the knot tying together the old >> and >>>> new pennants. Use fishing line as a threader. >>>> >>>> Regards, >>>> >>>> Rick Lange >>>> >>>> >>>> On Sat, Jun 13, 2020 at 9:20 PM Jesse Shumaker < >>>> jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com> wrote: >>>> >>>>> Hi all, >>>>> >>>>> My R22 was built in 1991 and refurbished in 2013 before I bought it. >> It >>>>> appears that my boat has the diamondboard (rather than centerboard) >> with >>>>> the direct pull line. As you can see from the attached photos, the >>>> pendant >>>>> is wearing through to the point that I'm worried about it going all the >>>> way >>>>> through so I want to replace the line before that happens. In the >>>> photos, >>>>> I didn't quite pull the diamondboard all the way back (a little over 1" >>>>> from being fully pulled up) so you can see the fraying just before it >>>> goes >>>>> in the hole. >>>>> >>>>> Today I put some goggles on, took a deep breath and dove under the >> boat a >>>>> few times to locate where the pendant ties on to the daggerboard. >>>>> Unfortunately, our lake water is so murky that I can't really see any >>>>> detail beyond that there is a diamondboard extending down from the >>>> keel. I >>>>> can't even see the line, but I can feel where it ties on. >>>>> >>>>> From reading past posts regarding the diamondboard, it appears like 6 - >>>> 8' >>>>> line should be sufficient. Does anyone recommend a specific type of >>>> line? >>>>> >>>>> Here's my initial thoughts on steps to replace the pendant: >>>>> 1) Remove the handle from the old pendant >>>>> 2) Attach the handle to the new pendant >>>>> 3) Attach the new pendant to the old pendant >>>>> 4) Go below and pull the old pendant and keep pulling through until I >> get >>>>> to where the old and new pendant are attached >>>>> 5) Separate the new and old pendant >>>>> 6) Untie the old pendant from the diamondboard or cut it off >>>>> 7) Tie the new pendant to the diamondboard using a bowline knot >>>>> >>>>> Some additional thoughts: >>>>> >>>>> There's not a lift available at our sailing club so attaching the new >>>>> pendant will be an underwater adventure. Considering the visibility >>>> level >>>>> in the water is so low, I'll have to be doing a lot of this by feel >> which >>>>> means it will take longer than I can hold my breath. I'm going to see >>>> if I >>>>> can borrow some scuba gear from another sailor at the club. >>>>> >>>>> To attach the old and new pendants together, I'll use some very small >>>> line >>>>> to tie them together, or perhaps some glue and/or tape. It doesn't >> look >>>>> like there is enough room to tie the old and new pendant together with >> a >>>>> knot and still have it fit through the hole. >>>>> >>>>> I'm going to err on the side of using a longer than needed pendant line >>>> and >>>>> then cut it to length up top after it has been tied in from below. >>>>> >>>>> Does anyone have any pictures of where the pendant connects to the >>>>> diamondboard? >>>>> >>>>> Are there any suggestions from the group before I proceed? >>>>> >>>>> Thanks, >>>>> Jesse Shumaker >>>>> S/V Zephyr >>>>> -------------- next part -------------- >>>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >>>>> Name: 20200613_180407.jpg >>>>> Type: image/jpeg >>>>> Size: 497647 bytes >>>>> Desc: not available >>>>> URL: < >>>>> >>>> >> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200613/40791568/attachment.jpg >>>>>> >>>>> -------------- next part -------------- >>>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >>>>> Name: 20200613_180359.jpg >>>>> Type: image/jpeg >>>>> Size: 800238 bytes >>>>> Desc: not available >>>>> URL: < >>>>> >>>> >> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200613/40791568/attachment-0001.jpg >>>>>> >>>>> >>>> >> > > From jayf401 at gmail.com Sun Jun 14 16:20:06 2020 From: jayf401 at gmail.com (Jay Friedland) Date: Sun, 14 Jun 2020 16:20:06 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Replacing diamondboard pendant In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1BE15A18-C93E-4684-8FDB-59F18A5BAE4F@gmail.com> Folks, While this is the topic, is there a consensus on length of pendant for the diamond board? I have 26? of travel of the pendant, but couldn?t tell if that gives the full 4? board down draft. Jay Friedland S/v Wanderlust ?97 > On Jun 14, 2020, at 7:58 AM, Ric Stott wrote: > > If you carefully tape the new line to old with electrical tape, but end to but end you should be able to pull a new line through, even if yo have the old style CB with blocks. Be sure to use flexible line of the same diameter. > One observation of you photo at the frayed line. You are missing a plastic flange to the top of the pendant hole in the fiberglass. The flange is rounded and helps prevent the wear you are observing. Lastly. You have some time before the pendant wears thru. > Ric > Dadventure > HBNY > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Jun 14, 2020, at 7:32 AM, Jesse Shumaker wrote: >> >> ?Hi Rick, thanks for your input. I like your idea to use the fishing as a >> threader and I plan to do that. >> >> I have been pulling up the board when in my slip because the boat gets some >> side to side roll and the board can knock around a bit. Also, I pull up >> the board at least part way when I am pulling in my slip when wind is >> coming off the lake at my stern. I go past my slip just a bit and then >> quickly turn to head up into the wind slightly before turning into my >> slip. It gets pretty shallow past my slip (there's only one more boat >> towards the beach after mine) so pulling up the board lessens the draft to >> give some room when executing that maneuver. >> >> I might hold off on replacing the pennant until it is hauled out as >> suggested. Until then, when I need to pull up the board, I suppose that I >> could just pull it up part of the way so the frayed portion of the line is >> not resting in the cleat. >> >>> On Sat, Jun 13, 2020 at 9:56 PM Rick Lange wrote: >>> >>> Jesse, >>> >>> If your boat stays wet all season, why do you have to pull the board up? >>> If you need to knock off mussels, just pull it up and down a couple inches >>> each week. Replace the pennant more easily when the boat is hauled out. >>> >>> There isn't enough room to pull through the knot tying together the old and >>> new pennants. Use fishing line as a threader. >>> >>> Regards, >>> >>> Rick Lange >>> >>> >>> On Sat, Jun 13, 2020 at 9:20 PM Jesse Shumaker < >>> jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com> wrote: >>> >>>> Hi all, >>>> >>>> My R22 was built in 1991 and refurbished in 2013 before I bought it. It >>>> appears that my boat has the diamondboard (rather than centerboard) with >>>> the direct pull line. As you can see from the attached photos, the >>> pendant >>>> is wearing through to the point that I'm worried about it going all the >>> way >>>> through so I want to replace the line before that happens. In the >>> photos, >>>> I didn't quite pull the diamondboard all the way back (a little over 1" >>>> from being fully pulled up) so you can see the fraying just before it >>> goes >>>> in the hole. >>>> >>>> Today I put some goggles on, took a deep breath and dove under the boat a >>>> few times to locate where the pendant ties on to the daggerboard. >>>> Unfortunately, our lake water is so murky that I can't really see any >>>> detail beyond that there is a diamondboard extending down from the >>> keel. I >>>> can't even see the line, but I can feel where it ties on. >>>> >>>> From reading past posts regarding the diamondboard, it appears like 6 - >>> 8' >>>> line should be sufficient. Does anyone recommend a specific type of >>> line? >>>> >>>> Here's my initial thoughts on steps to replace the pendant: >>>> 1) Remove the handle from the old pendant >>>> 2) Attach the handle to the new pendant >>>> 3) Attach the new pendant to the old pendant >>>> 4) Go below and pull the old pendant and keep pulling through until I get >>>> to where the old and new pendant are attached >>>> 5) Separate the new and old pendant >>>> 6) Untie the old pendant from the diamondboard or cut it off >>>> 7) Tie the new pendant to the diamondboard using a bowline knot >>>> >>>> Some additional thoughts: >>>> >>>> There's not a lift available at our sailing club so attaching the new >>>> pendant will be an underwater adventure. Considering the visibility >>> level >>>> in the water is so low, I'll have to be doing a lot of this by feel which >>>> means it will take longer than I can hold my breath. I'm going to see >>> if I >>>> can borrow some scuba gear from another sailor at the club. >>>> >>>> To attach the old and new pendants together, I'll use some very small >>> line >>>> to tie them together, or perhaps some glue and/or tape. It doesn't look >>>> like there is enough room to tie the old and new pendant together with a >>>> knot and still have it fit through the hole. >>>> >>>> I'm going to err on the side of using a longer than needed pendant line >>> and >>>> then cut it to length up top after it has been tied in from below. >>>> >>>> Does anyone have any pictures of where the pendant connects to the >>>> diamondboard? >>>> >>>> Are there any suggestions from the group before I proceed? >>>> >>>> Thanks, >>>> Jesse Shumaker >>>> S/V Zephyr >>>> -------------- next part -------------- >>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >>>> Name: 20200613_180407.jpg >>>> Type: image/jpeg >>>> Size: 497647 bytes >>>> Desc: not available >>>> URL: < >>>> >>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200613/40791568/attachment.jpg >>>>> >>>> -------------- next part -------------- >>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >>>> Name: 20200613_180359.jpg >>>> Type: image/jpeg >>>> Size: 800238 bytes >>>> Desc: not available >>>> URL: < >>>> >>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200613/40791568/attachment-0001.jpg >>>>> >>>> >>> From john_carlson at mac.com Sun Jun 14 17:21:49 2020 From: john_carlson at mac.com (John Carlson) Date: Sun, 14 Jun 2020 16:21:49 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Replacing diamondboard pendant In-Reply-To: <1BE15A18-C93E-4684-8FDB-59F18A5BAE4F@gmail.com> References: <1BE15A18-C93E-4684-8FDB-59F18A5BAE4F@gmail.com> Message-ID: I didn?t measure my pendant line. That would have been a good idea, but you can shorten it after getting it connected and dropping the board. While you can wait to change the pendant until the boat is on the trailer, you won?t be able to reach the eye on the rear of the diamond board to get to the knot (i.e., from the bottom via the centerboard trunk). The board needs to be dropped down for you to see it, which you can?t (or at least I couldn?t) do on the trailer. All that to say that I think you?ll need to access the board from the top. Sorry, it looks like my pictures were stripped. One is zoomed in on the knot itself. Here are direct links: https://www.dropbox.com/s/9vrz6x2kk8q8sqa/IMG_0659.jpeg?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/mowx4w9438caa7e/IMG_0660.jpeg?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/cgoejpn8rxcmyk2/IMG_0662.jpeg?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/m8j5f5yead07rn2/IMG_0663.jpeg?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/6flguhguiwch8xw/IMG_0703.jpeg?dl=0 John Carlson 2004/2012 Lillipelli > On Jun 14, 2020, at 3:20 PM, Jay Friedland wrote: > > Folks, > While this is the topic, is there a consensus on length of pendant for the diamond board? I have 26? of travel of the pendant, but couldn?t tell if that gives the full 4? board down draft. > > Jay Friedland > S/v Wanderlust ?97 > > >> On Jun 14, 2020, at 7:58 AM, Ric Stott wrote: >> >> If you carefully tape the new line to old with electrical tape, but end to but end you should be able to pull a new line through, even if yo have the old style CB with blocks. Be sure to use flexible line of the same diameter. >> One observation of you photo at the frayed line. You are missing a plastic flange to the top of the pendant hole in the fiberglass. The flange is rounded and helps prevent the wear you are observing. Lastly. You have some time before the pendant wears thru. >> Ric >> Dadventure >> HBNY >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >>> On Jun 14, 2020, at 7:32 AM, Jesse Shumaker wrote: >>> >>> ?Hi Rick, thanks for your input. I like your idea to use the fishing as a >>> threader and I plan to do that. >>> >>> I have been pulling up the board when in my slip because the boat gets some >>> side to side roll and the board can knock around a bit. Also, I pull up >>> the board at least part way when I am pulling in my slip when wind is >>> coming off the lake at my stern. I go past my slip just a bit and then >>> quickly turn to head up into the wind slightly before turning into my >>> slip. It gets pretty shallow past my slip (there's only one more boat >>> towards the beach after mine) so pulling up the board lessens the draft to >>> give some room when executing that maneuver. >>> >>> I might hold off on replacing the pennant until it is hauled out as >>> suggested. Until then, when I need to pull up the board, I suppose that I >>> could just pull it up part of the way so the frayed portion of the line is >>> not resting in the cleat. >>> >>>> On Sat, Jun 13, 2020 at 9:56 PM Rick Lange wrote: >>>> >>>> Jesse, >>>> >>>> If your boat stays wet all season, why do you have to pull the board up? >>>> If you need to knock off mussels, just pull it up and down a couple inches >>>> each week. Replace the pennant more easily when the boat is hauled out. >>>> >>>> There isn't enough room to pull through the knot tying together the old and >>>> new pennants. Use fishing line as a threader. >>>> >>>> Regards, >>>> >>>> Rick Lange >>>> >>>> >>>> On Sat, Jun 13, 2020 at 9:20 PM Jesse Shumaker < >>>> jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com> wrote: >>>> >>>>> Hi all, >>>>> >>>>> My R22 was built in 1991 and refurbished in 2013 before I bought it. It >>>>> appears that my boat has the diamondboard (rather than centerboard) with >>>>> the direct pull line. As you can see from the attached photos, the >>>> pendant >>>>> is wearing through to the point that I'm worried about it going all the >>>> way >>>>> through so I want to replace the line before that happens. In the >>>> photos, >>>>> I didn't quite pull the diamondboard all the way back (a little over 1" >>>>> from being fully pulled up) so you can see the fraying just before it >>>> goes >>>>> in the hole. >>>>> >>>>> Today I put some goggles on, took a deep breath and dove under the boat a >>>>> few times to locate where the pendant ties on to the daggerboard. >>>>> Unfortunately, our lake water is so murky that I can't really see any >>>>> detail beyond that there is a diamondboard extending down from the >>>> keel. I >>>>> can't even see the line, but I can feel where it ties on. >>>>> >>>>> From reading past posts regarding the diamondboard, it appears like 6 - >>>> 8' >>>>> line should be sufficient. Does anyone recommend a specific type of >>>> line? >>>>> >>>>> Here's my initial thoughts on steps to replace the pendant: >>>>> 1) Remove the handle from the old pendant >>>>> 2) Attach the handle to the new pendant >>>>> 3) Attach the new pendant to the old pendant >>>>> 4) Go below and pull the old pendant and keep pulling through until I get >>>>> to where the old and new pendant are attached >>>>> 5) Separate the new and old pendant >>>>> 6) Untie the old pendant from the diamondboard or cut it off >>>>> 7) Tie the new pendant to the diamondboard using a bowline knot >>>>> >>>>> Some additional thoughts: >>>>> >>>>> There's not a lift available at our sailing club so attaching the new >>>>> pendant will be an underwater adventure. Considering the visibility >>>> level >>>>> in the water is so low, I'll have to be doing a lot of this by feel which >>>>> means it will take longer than I can hold my breath. I'm going to see >>>> if I >>>>> can borrow some scuba gear from another sailor at the club. >>>>> >>>>> To attach the old and new pendants together, I'll use some very small >>>> line >>>>> to tie them together, or perhaps some glue and/or tape. It doesn't look >>>>> like there is enough room to tie the old and new pendant together with a >>>>> knot and still have it fit through the hole. >>>>> >>>>> I'm going to err on the side of using a longer than needed pendant line >>>> and >>>>> then cut it to length up top after it has been tied in from below. >>>>> >>>>> Does anyone have any pictures of where the pendant connects to the >>>>> diamondboard? >>>>> >>>>> Are there any suggestions from the group before I proceed? >>>>> >>>>> Thanks, >>>>> Jesse Shumaker >>>>> S/V Zephyr >>>>> -------------- next part -------------- >>>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >>>>> Name: 20200613_180407.jpg >>>>> Type: image/jpeg >>>>> Size: 497647 bytes >>>>> Desc: not available >>>>> URL: < >>>>> >>>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200613/40791568/attachment.jpg >>>>>> >>>>> -------------- next part -------------- >>>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >>>>> Name: 20200613_180359.jpg >>>>> Type: image/jpeg >>>>> Size: 800238 bytes >>>>> Desc: not available >>>>> URL: < >>>>> >>>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200613/40791568/attachment-0001.jpg >>>>>> >>>>> >>>> > > From jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com Sun Jun 14 17:22:09 2020 From: jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com (Jesse Shumaker) Date: Sun, 14 Jun 2020 16:22:09 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Replacing diamondboard pendant In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: John, thanks for the photos. That is quite the dramatic improvement from the before and after photos. Nice work! I wasn't planning on removing the diamondboard while the boat is on the water. Instead, I was planning on using a messenger line (thanks to Roger for the terminology and history lesson on that) to run a new line through while the diamondboard is down. However, that leads to another question. If the diamondboard does not have the pendant tied in (as it would be after removing the old pendant but before putting in the new pendant), will it continue to extend even lower? I suppose a way around this would be to tie something around the bottom corner of the diamondboard and have a line run from there up on both sides and come up in a loop over the cockpit to keep the diamond board from extending further while swapping out the pendants. I'm getting my boat back on the trailer in a couple of weeks and that will provide the opportunity to see how the bottom job is holding up. If it looks like I'll need a new bottom job them then I could just take care of the diamondboard pendant while the boat is on the lift at the sailboat shop. On Sun, Jun 14, 2020 at 3:10 PM John Carlson via Rhodes22-list < rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote: > Well, this is a timely question ? I just tightened that last of the 54 > bolts holding the centerboard cap in place last night (my boat isn?t in the > water). For the second time. I do have some pics. My diamond board was in > rough shape. I don?t think it liked Lake Waco. > > I am not sure what the best way to attach images is. I am going to try > attaching them to this message, but I?ve also shared them on Dropbox here > (zipped together): > > https://www.dropbox.com/s/7tum1gvszoc8eom/rhodes-centerboard.zip?dl=0 < > https://www.dropbox.com/s/7tum1gvszoc8eom/rhodes-centerboard.zip?dl=0> > > While I am sure this can be done underwater, I am not sure I would be > brave enough to try it with zero visibility. Taking the centerboard cap off > and lifting the diamond board out should be done out of the water. It isn?t > easy either, but you can see what you are doing. > > > John Carlson > Lillipelli 2004 (recycled 2012) > > > > > On Jun 13, 2020, at 9:25 PM, Graham Stewart > wrote: > > > > Jesse: > > I have the older centerboard so others might well have better advice. > > > > What you suggest should work. I have never tried to do this type of work > while the boat was in the water. I have always had the boat on the trailer > and removed the centerboard cap - which is, admittedly, a pita. The > advantage of doing it with the cap removed is that you get to inspect the > centerboard for damage and check all of the blocks to make sure they are > still working properly. Mine were not. > > > > My line is 12' long. It passes through a series of blocks so that when > the board is down it uses quite a bit more line than you might think. In > your circumstance I would not use less than 12'. Don't overlook tying the > bitter end of the new line inside the boat so that you don't pull the whole > line through. > > > > Use the same thickness of line as is currently installed. > > > > Given that you must pass through a series of blocks the join between the > lines should be strong and flexible. > > > > > > If anything goes wrong - such as the line separating, you will want to > have a backup plan to get the boat on its trailer while the board is down. > Driving the boat onto the trailer should result in the board being lifted > automatically by the keel roller but I would want to test this on your rig > before committing to removing the line. > > > > Graham Stewart > > gstewart8 at cogeco.ca > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org>] On Behalf Of Jesse Shumaker > > Sent: Saturday, June 13, 2020 9:21 PM > > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > > Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Replacing diamondboard pendant > > > > Hi all, > > > > My R22 was built in 1991 and refurbished in 2013 before I bought it. It > > appears that my boat has the diamondboard (rather than centerboard) with > > the direct pull line. As you can see from the attached photos, the > pendant > > is wearing through to the point that I'm worried about it going all the > way > > through so I want to replace the line before that happens. In the > photos, > > I didn't quite pull the diamondboard all the way back (a little over 1" > > from being fully pulled up) so you can see the fraying just before it > goes > > in the hole. > > > > Today I put some goggles on, took a deep breath and dove under the boat a > > few times to locate where the pendant ties on to the daggerboard. > > Unfortunately, our lake water is so murky that I can't really see any > > detail beyond that there is a diamondboard extending down from the > keel. I > > can't even see the line, but I can feel where it ties on. > > > > From reading past posts regarding the diamondboard, it appears like 6 - > 8' > > line should be sufficient. Does anyone recommend a specific type of > line? > > > > Here's my initial thoughts on steps to replace the pendant: > > 1) Remove the handle from the old pendant > > 2) Attach the handle to the new pendant > > 3) Attach the new pendant to the old pendant > > 4) Go below and pull the old pendant and keep pulling through until I get > > to where the old and new pendant are attached > > 5) Separate the new and old pendant > > 6) Untie the old pendant from the diamondboard or cut it off > > 7) Tie the new pendant to the diamondboard using a bowline knot > > > > Some additional thoughts: > > > > There's not a lift available at our sailing club so attaching the new > > pendant will be an underwater adventure. Considering the visibility > level > > in the water is so low, I'll have to be doing a lot of this by feel which > > means it will take longer than I can hold my breath. I'm going to see > if I > > can borrow some scuba gear from another sailor at the club. > > > > To attach the old and new pendants together, I'll use some very small > line > > to tie them together, or perhaps some glue and/or tape. It doesn't look > > like there is enough room to tie the old and new pendant together with a > > knot and still have it fit through the hole. > > > > I'm going to err on the side of using a longer than needed pendant line > and > > then cut it to length up top after it has been tied in from below. > > > > Does anyone have any pictures of where the pendant connects to the > > diamondboard? > > > > Are there any suggestions from the group before I proceed? > > > > Thanks, > > Jesse Shumaker > > S/V Zephyr > > -------------- next part -------------- > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > Name: 20200613_180407.jpg > > Type: image/jpeg > > Size: 497647 bytes > > Desc: not available > > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200613/40791568/attachment.jpg > < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200613/40791568/attachment.jpg > >> > > -------------- next part -------------- > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > Name: 20200613_180359.jpg > > Type: image/jpeg > > Size: 800238 bytes > > Desc: not available > > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200613/40791568/attachment-0001.jpg > < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200613/40791568/attachment-0001.jpg > >> > > > > > > On Jun 14, 2020, at 12:01 PM, ROGER PIHLAJA > wrote: > > > > Hi All, > > > > FYI, the use of a smaller line to establish a path for a larger line is > called ?sending a messenger line?. The term comes from the old days of > sailing when a small cannon was used to fire the messenger line from one > ship to another or from the beach to a foundering ship, to be followed up > with the larger line. The technique is still used right up to this day to > rig up hose from a tanker to another ship for refueling at sea. Even > nuclear powered aircraft carriers need regular deliveries of jet fuel for > their aircraft. > > > > Roger Pihlaja > > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium > > > > Sent from Mail https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986>> for Windows 10 > > > > From: Jesse Shumaker > > Sent: Sunday, June 14, 2020 10:23 AM > > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Replacing diamondboard pendant > > > > Ric, thanks for the note regarding the flange. I will address that as > > well. It is good to know that it looks like I have some time before the > > pendant parts in two. The guy at our sailing club with the SCUBA gear is > > out of town until late August or early September so this will be a > project > > for late in the season. Until then, I'll avoid cleating where it is > > wearing through. > > > > On Sun, Jun 14, 2020 at 6:58 AM Ric Stott > wrote: > > > >> If you carefully tape the new line to old with electrical tape, but end > to > >> but end you should be able to pull a new line through, even if yo have > the > >> old style CB with blocks. Be sure to use flexible line of the same > >> diameter. > >> One observation of you photo at the frayed line. You are missing a > plastic > >> flange to the top of the pendant hole in the fiberglass. The flange is > >> rounded and helps prevent the wear you are observing. Lastly. You have > >> some time before the pendant wears thru. > >> Ric > >> Dadventure > >> HBNY > >> > >> Sent from my iPhone > >> > >>> On Jun 14, 2020, at 7:32 AM, Jesse Shumaker < > >> jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com> wrote: > >>> > >>> ?Hi Rick, thanks for your input. I like your idea to use the fishing > as > >> a > >>> threader and I plan to do that. > >>> > >>> I have been pulling up the board when in my slip because the boat gets > >> some > >>> side to side roll and the board can knock around a bit. Also, I pull > up > >>> the board at least part way when I am pulling in my slip when wind is > >>> coming off the lake at my stern. I go past my slip just a bit and then > >>> quickly turn to head up into the wind slightly before turning into my > >>> slip. It gets pretty shallow past my slip (there's only one more boat > >>> towards the beach after mine) so pulling up the board lessens the > draft > >> to > >>> give some room when executing that maneuver. > >>> > >>> I might hold off on replacing the pennant until it is hauled out as > >>> suggested. Until then, when I need to pull up the board, I suppose > that > >> I > >>> could just pull it up part of the way so the frayed portion of the line > >> is > >>> not resting in the cleat. > >>> > >>>> On Sat, Jun 13, 2020 at 9:56 PM Rick Lange > >> wrote: > >>>> > >>>> Jesse, > >>>> > >>>> If your boat stays wet all season, why do you have to pull the board > up? > >>>> If you need to knock off mussels, just pull it up and down a couple > >> inches > >>>> each week. Replace the pennant more easily when the boat is hauled > out. > >>>> > >>>> There isn't enough room to pull through the knot tying together the > old > >> and > >>>> new pennants. Use fishing line as a threader. > >>>> > >>>> Regards, > >>>> > >>>> Rick Lange > >>>> > >>>> > >>>> On Sat, Jun 13, 2020 at 9:20 PM Jesse Shumaker < > >>>> jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com> wrote: > >>>> > >>>>> Hi all, > >>>>> > >>>>> My R22 was built in 1991 and refurbished in 2013 before I bought it. > >> It > >>>>> appears that my boat has the diamondboard (rather than centerboard) > >> with > >>>>> the direct pull line. As you can see from the attached photos, the > >>>> pendant > >>>>> is wearing through to the point that I'm worried about it going all > the > >>>> way > >>>>> through so I want to replace the line before that happens. In the > >>>> photos, > >>>>> I didn't quite pull the diamondboard all the way back (a little over > 1" > >>>>> from being fully pulled up) so you can see the fraying just before it > >>>> goes > >>>>> in the hole. > >>>>> > >>>>> Today I put some goggles on, took a deep breath and dove under the > >> boat a > >>>>> few times to locate where the pendant ties on to the daggerboard. > >>>>> Unfortunately, our lake water is so murky that I can't really see any > >>>>> detail beyond that there is a diamondboard extending down from the > >>>> keel. I > >>>>> can't even see the line, but I can feel where it ties on. > >>>>> > >>>>> From reading past posts regarding the diamondboard, it appears like > 6 - > >>>> 8' > >>>>> line should be sufficient. Does anyone recommend a specific type of > >>>> line? > >>>>> > >>>>> Here's my initial thoughts on steps to replace the pendant: > >>>>> 1) Remove the handle from the old pendant > >>>>> 2) Attach the handle to the new pendant > >>>>> 3) Attach the new pendant to the old pendant > >>>>> 4) Go below and pull the old pendant and keep pulling through until I > >> get > >>>>> to where the old and new pendant are attached > >>>>> 5) Separate the new and old pendant > >>>>> 6) Untie the old pendant from the diamondboard or cut it off > >>>>> 7) Tie the new pendant to the diamondboard using a bowline knot > >>>>> > >>>>> Some additional thoughts: > >>>>> > >>>>> There's not a lift available at our sailing club so attaching the new > >>>>> pendant will be an underwater adventure. Considering the visibility > >>>> level > >>>>> in the water is so low, I'll have to be doing a lot of this by feel > >> which > >>>>> means it will take longer than I can hold my breath. I'm going to > see > >>>> if I > >>>>> can borrow some scuba gear from another sailor at the club. > >>>>> > >>>>> To attach the old and new pendants together, I'll use some very small > >>>> line > >>>>> to tie them together, or perhaps some glue and/or tape. It doesn't > >> look > >>>>> like there is enough room to tie the old and new pendant together > with > >> a > >>>>> knot and still have it fit through the hole. > >>>>> > >>>>> I'm going to err on the side of using a longer than needed pendant > line > >>>> and > >>>>> then cut it to length up top after it has been tied in from below. > >>>>> > >>>>> Does anyone have any pictures of where the pendant connects to the > >>>>> diamondboard? > >>>>> > >>>>> Are there any suggestions from the group before I proceed? > >>>>> > >>>>> Thanks, > >>>>> Jesse Shumaker > >>>>> S/V Zephyr > >>>>> -------------- next part -------------- > >>>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > >>>>> Name: 20200613_180407.jpg > >>>>> Type: image/jpeg > >>>>> Size: 497647 bytes > >>>>> Desc: not available > >>>>> URL: < > >>>>> > >>>> > >> > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200613/40791568/attachment.jpg > >>>>>> > >>>>> -------------- next part -------------- > >>>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > >>>>> Name: 20200613_180359.jpg > >>>>> Type: image/jpeg > >>>>> Size: 800238 bytes > >>>>> Desc: not available > >>>>> URL: < > >>>>> > >>>> > >> > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200613/40791568/attachment-0001.jpg > >>>>>> > >>>>> > >>>> > >> > > > > > > From jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com Sun Jun 14 18:02:39 2020 From: jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com (Jesse Shumaker) Date: Sun, 14 Jun 2020 17:02:39 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] securing gas tank and storage containers under cockpit benches Message-ID: Some lively sailing on Saturday led to a minor project so I thought I would share and see how others have addressed this. While racing yesterday we had winds of 15 gusting to 25. At one point while on port tack and maneuvering around some boats on starboard tack, a big gust caught me by surprise while I was sheeted in tightly and we heeled over enough to get a bit of water over the rail and into the cockpit before I uncleated the mainsheet and headed up. I probably had too much sail up for the conditions. My crew and I were both hiking out on the windward gunwales looking down and holding on. While heeled quite a bit, the gas tank came tumbling down from it's spot under the port side cockpit bench. You might observe that was not great seamanship on my part to get into that situation and you would be right. Fortunately nothing was hurt and it was exciting! The long, low, flat containers that I use for storage stayed put thanks to a non-stick pad (the kind that you can use for shelving) that I roll out and put underneath when I expect to be in conditions where I anticipate a lot of heeling. The weight in the gas tank sits up higher and it doesn't have as wide of a bottom so can tumble down easier. I just disconnected the gas tank from the fuel line and shoved it back in place for the rest of the race until it was time to motor into the dock at the end of the afternoon. To secure the gas tank, I got some Scotch Dual Lock velcro like material with a peel and stick adhesive on the back as well as 3M Command hooks rated for 7 lbs. The Scotch material is supposed to work wet or dry and is supposedly rated for 10 lbs, though I don't know if the adhesive will stand up to that. I cut some of the Scotch strips to put on the gas tank and where those strips come in contact with the boat surfaces. I also ran a shock cord from the two 3M hooks and around the gas tank handle. I'll have to wait and see if that is sufficient to keep the gas tank in place. I wanted to avoid putting anything solid, such as a bar, to keep things in place under the cockpit benches since people sometimes have an instinct to put their feet there to brace when heeling even after being instructed to put their feet on the edge of the leeward bench instead. I'm guessing others have solved this in a variety of ways so feel free to chime in if you would like to share your solution. Alternatively, maybe you all just stay in better control of your boat than I do to avoid excessive heeling :) Jesse Shumaker S/V Zephyr -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: GasTank02.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1409454 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: GasTank01.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2778011 bytes Desc: not available URL: From jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com Sun Jun 14 18:09:04 2020 From: jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com (Jesse Shumaker) Date: Sun, 14 Jun 2020 15:09:04 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] installation of inline check valve for cockpit drain In-Reply-To: <1578539567926-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1578539567926-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <1592172544167-0.post@n5.nabble.com> I realized that I said I would report back on this project. This solution turns out to have worked well for my boat. Water readily drains from the cockpit but doesn't come back up through when stern heavy, as is the case when having multiple passengers in the cockpit. As Graham pointed out in this thread, this may not be a good idea if you're in an area that puts you at risk for following seas coming over the stern since the draining rate is reduced compared to a straight hose connection with no check valve. Jesse Shumaker S/V Zephyr -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From peter at sunnybeeches.com Sun Jun 14 21:23:10 2020 From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg) Date: Sun, 14 Jun 2020 21:23:10 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] installation of inline check valve for cockpit drain In-Reply-To: <1592172544167-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1578539567926-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1592172544167-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <4B1DF221-65D1-4E81-BE62-B9F31FCB9CC0@sunnybeeches.com> Jesse, Thanks for the follow-up report. Too often the list never finds out how things work out in the long run. Peter Nyberg Coventry, CT s/v Silverheels (1988/2016) > On Jun 14, 2020, at 6:09 PM, Jesse Shumaker wrote: > > I realized that I said I would report back on this project. This solution > turns out to have worked well for my boat. Water readily drains from the > cockpit but doesn't come back up through when stern heavy, as is the case > when having multiple passengers in the cockpit. As Graham pointed out in > this thread, this may not be a good idea if you're in an area that puts you > at risk for following seas coming over the stern since the draining rate is > reduced compared to a straight hose connection with no check valve. > > Jesse Shumaker > S/V Zephyr > > > > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com Mon Jun 15 06:08:44 2020 From: jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com (JeffSmith) Date: Mon, 15 Jun 2020 03:08:44 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] securing gas tank and storage containers under cockpit benches In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1592215724810-0.post@n5.nabble.com> You are gonna need a bigger gas tank! West Marine has a 6 gal. tank 10" high for about $65.00. It just fits under the bench, but the filler cap must be removed before the tank can be pulled out or pushed in. We have had some pretty serious round ups and it has stayed put. ----- Jeff Smith 2009 R22 #101 RADIANT Atlantic Highlands Municpal Harbor Atlantic Highlands, NJ -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com Mon Jun 15 06:18:54 2020 From: jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com (JeffSmith) Date: Mon, 15 Jun 2020 03:18:54 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anyone have an extra outhaul car? Message-ID: <1592216334025-0.post@n5.nabble.com> My outhaul car broke on the sail side. I was able to jury rig for the rest of the sail and can drill a new hole further aft in the car for the bolt which holds the ss plate, but wouldn't mind getting a newer one. ----- Jeff Smith 2009 R22 #101 RADIANT Atlantic Highlands Municpal Harbor Atlantic Highlands, NJ -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From stan at generalboats.com Mon Jun 15 06:43:20 2020 From: stan at generalboats.com (stan) Date: Mon, 15 Jun 2020 06:43:20 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anyone have an extra outhaul car? In-Reply-To: <1592216334025-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1592216334025-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: The new designed IMF outhaul cars are built to last a life time, mine.? This is a proprietary item available on the ROC parts web site.? Together with the new GB traveler, the combination enhance pointing ability On 6/15/20 6:18 AM, JeffSmith wrote: > My outhaul car broke on the sail side. I was able to jury rig for the rest > of the sail and can drill a new hole further aft in the car for the bolt > which holds the ss plate, but wouldn't mind getting a newer one. > > > > > > ----- > Jeff Smith > 2009 R22 #101 RADIANT > Atlantic Highlands Municpal Harbor > Atlantic Highlands, NJ > > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > From jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com Mon Jun 15 08:38:17 2020 From: jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com (JeffSmith) Date: Mon, 15 Jun 2020 05:38:17 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anyone have an extra outhaul car? In-Reply-To: References: <1592216334025-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <1592224697176-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Hi Stan, How much for each? ----- Jeff Smith 2009 R22 #101 RADIANT Atlantic Highlands Municpal Harbor Atlantic Highlands, NJ -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From ric at stottarchitecture.com Mon Jun 15 09:22:32 2020 From: ric at stottarchitecture.com (Richard Stott) Date: Mon, 15 Jun 2020 09:22:32 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Replacing diamondboard pendant In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1DB81BC7-5FE1-44A7-BB5C-020CE0499FAC@stottarchitecture.com> Hopefully the attached photo will stay attached. Where the pendant comes to of the hull at the cam cleat, I have a plastic thru-hull fitting. Attwood Plastic Mushroom Head Thru-Hull Fitting - 5/8? Please confirm diameter before purchase Ric Dadventure HBNY Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP www.stottarchitecture.com Office 631-283-1777 Cell 516-965-3164 > On Jun 14, 2020, at 4:10 PM, John Carlson via Rhodes22-list wrote: > > Well, this is a timely question ? I just tightened that last of the 54 bolts holding the centerboard cap in place last night (my boat isn?t in the water). For the second time. I do have some pics. My diamond board was in rough shape. I don?t think it liked Lake Waco. > > I am not sure what the best way to attach images is. I am going to try attaching them to this message, but I?ve also shared them on Dropbox here (zipped together): > > https://www.dropbox.com/s/7tum1gvszoc8eom/rhodes-centerboard.zip?dl=0 > > While I am sure this can be done underwater, I am not sure I would be brave enough to try it with zero visibility. Taking the centerboard cap off and lifting the diamond board out should be done out of the water. It isn?t easy either, but you can see what you are doing. > > > John Carlson > Lillipelli 2004 (recycled 2012) > > > >> On Jun 13, 2020, at 9:25 PM, Graham Stewart > wrote: >> >> Jesse: >> I have the older centerboard so others might well have better advice. >> >> What you suggest should work. I have never tried to do this type of work while the boat was in the water. I have always had the boat on the trailer and removed the centerboard cap - which is, admittedly, a pita. The advantage of doing it with the cap removed is that you get to inspect the centerboard for damage and check all of the blocks to make sure they are still working properly. Mine were not. >> >> My line is 12' long. It passes through a series of blocks so that when the board is down it uses quite a bit more line than you might think. In your circumstance I would not use less than 12'. Don't overlook tying the bitter end of the new line inside the boat so that you don't pull the whole line through. >> >> Use the same thickness of line as is currently installed. >> >> Given that you must pass through a series of blocks the join between the lines should be strong and flexible. >> >> >> If anything goes wrong - such as the line separating, you will want to have a backup plan to get the boat on its trailer while the board is down. Driving the boat onto the trailer should result in the board being lifted automatically by the keel roller but I would want to test this on your rig before committing to removing the line. >> >> Graham Stewart >> gstewart8 at cogeco.ca >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org ] On Behalf Of Jesse Shumaker >> Sent: Saturday, June 13, 2020 9:21 PM >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List >> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Replacing diamondboard pendant >> >> Hi all, >> >> My R22 was built in 1991 and refurbished in 2013 before I bought it. It >> appears that my boat has the diamondboard (rather than centerboard) with >> the direct pull line. As you can see from the attached photos, the pendant >> is wearing through to the point that I'm worried about it going all the way >> through so I want to replace the line before that happens. In the photos, >> I didn't quite pull the diamondboard all the way back (a little over 1" >> from being fully pulled up) so you can see the fraying just before it goes >> in the hole. >> >> Today I put some goggles on, took a deep breath and dove under the boat a >> few times to locate where the pendant ties on to the daggerboard. >> Unfortunately, our lake water is so murky that I can't really see any >> detail beyond that there is a diamondboard extending down from the keel. I >> can't even see the line, but I can feel where it ties on. >> >> From reading past posts regarding the diamondboard, it appears like 6 - 8' >> line should be sufficient. Does anyone recommend a specific type of line? >> >> Here's my initial thoughts on steps to replace the pendant: >> 1) Remove the handle from the old pendant >> 2) Attach the handle to the new pendant >> 3) Attach the new pendant to the old pendant >> 4) Go below and pull the old pendant and keep pulling through until I get >> to where the old and new pendant are attached >> 5) Separate the new and old pendant >> 6) Untie the old pendant from the diamondboard or cut it off >> 7) Tie the new pendant to the diamondboard using a bowline knot >> >> Some additional thoughts: >> >> There's not a lift available at our sailing club so attaching the new >> pendant will be an underwater adventure. Considering the visibility level >> in the water is so low, I'll have to be doing a lot of this by feel which >> means it will take longer than I can hold my breath. I'm going to see if I >> can borrow some scuba gear from another sailor at the club. >> >> To attach the old and new pendants together, I'll use some very small line >> to tie them together, or perhaps some glue and/or tape. It doesn't look >> like there is enough room to tie the old and new pendant together with a >> knot and still have it fit through the hole. >> >> I'm going to err on the side of using a longer than needed pendant line and >> then cut it to length up top after it has been tied in from below. >> >> Does anyone have any pictures of where the pendant connects to the >> diamondboard? >> >> Are there any suggestions from the group before I proceed? >> >> Thanks, >> Jesse Shumaker >> S/V Zephyr >> -------------- next part -------------- >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >> Name: 20200613_180407.jpg >> Type: image/jpeg >> Size: 497647 bytes >> Desc: not available >> URL: > >> -------------- next part -------------- >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >> Name: 20200613_180359.jpg >> Type: image/jpeg >> Size: 800238 bytes >> Desc: not available >> URL: > >> > > >> On Jun 14, 2020, at 12:01 PM, ROGER PIHLAJA wrote: >> >> Hi All, >> >> FYI, the use of a smaller line to establish a path for a larger line is called ?sending a messenger line?. The term comes from the old days of sailing when a small cannon was used to fire the messenger line from one ship to another or from the beach to a foundering ship, to be followed up with the larger line. The technique is still used right up to this day to rig up hose from a tanker to another ship for refueling at sea. Even nuclear powered aircraft carriers need regular deliveries of jet fuel for their aircraft. >> >> Roger Pihlaja >> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium >> >> Sent from Mail> for Windows 10 >> >> From: Jesse Shumaker >> Sent: Sunday, June 14, 2020 10:23 AM >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Replacing diamondboard pendant >> >> Ric, thanks for the note regarding the flange. I will address that as >> well. It is good to know that it looks like I have some time before the >> pendant parts in two. The guy at our sailing club with the SCUBA gear is >> out of town until late August or early September so this will be a project >> for late in the season. Until then, I'll avoid cleating where it is >> wearing through. >> >> On Sun, Jun 14, 2020 at 6:58 AM Ric Stott wrote: >> >>> If you carefully tape the new line to old with electrical tape, but end to >>> but end you should be able to pull a new line through, even if yo have the >>> old style CB with blocks. Be sure to use flexible line of the same >>> diameter. >>> One observation of you photo at the frayed line. You are missing a plastic >>> flange to the top of the pendant hole in the fiberglass. The flange is >>> rounded and helps prevent the wear you are observing. Lastly. You have >>> some time before the pendant wears thru. >>> Ric >>> Dadventure >>> HBNY >>> >>> Sent from my iPhone >>> >>>> On Jun 14, 2020, at 7:32 AM, Jesse Shumaker < >>> jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com> wrote: >>>> >>>> ?Hi Rick, thanks for your input. I like your idea to use the fishing as >>> a >>>> threader and I plan to do that. >>>> >>>> I have been pulling up the board when in my slip because the boat gets >>> some >>>> side to side roll and the board can knock around a bit. Also, I pull up >>>> the board at least part way when I am pulling in my slip when wind is >>>> coming off the lake at my stern. I go past my slip just a bit and then >>>> quickly turn to head up into the wind slightly before turning into my >>>> slip. It gets pretty shallow past my slip (there's only one more boat >>>> towards the beach after mine) so pulling up the board lessens the draft >>> to >>>> give some room when executing that maneuver. >>>> >>>> I might hold off on replacing the pennant until it is hauled out as >>>> suggested. Until then, when I need to pull up the board, I suppose that >>> I >>>> could just pull it up part of the way so the frayed portion of the line >>> is >>>> not resting in the cleat. >>>> >>>>> On Sat, Jun 13, 2020 at 9:56 PM Rick Lange >>> wrote: >>>>> >>>>> Jesse, >>>>> >>>>> If your boat stays wet all season, why do you have to pull the board up? >>>>> If you need to knock off mussels, just pull it up and down a couple >>> inches >>>>> each week. Replace the pennant more easily when the boat is hauled out. >>>>> >>>>> There isn't enough room to pull through the knot tying together the old >>> and >>>>> new pennants. Use fishing line as a threader. >>>>> >>>>> Regards, >>>>> >>>>> Rick Lange >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> On Sat, Jun 13, 2020 at 9:20 PM Jesse Shumaker < >>>>> jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com> wrote: >>>>> >>>>>> Hi all, >>>>>> >>>>>> My R22 was built in 1991 and refurbished in 2013 before I bought it. >>> It >>>>>> appears that my boat has the diamondboard (rather than centerboard) >>> with >>>>>> the direct pull line. As you can see from the attached photos, the >>>>> pendant >>>>>> is wearing through to the point that I'm worried about it going all the >>>>> way >>>>>> through so I want to replace the line before that happens. In the >>>>> photos, >>>>>> I didn't quite pull the diamondboard all the way back (a little over 1" >>>>>> from being fully pulled up) so you can see the fraying just before it >>>>> goes >>>>>> in the hole. >>>>>> >>>>>> Today I put some goggles on, took a deep breath and dove under the >>> boat a >>>>>> few times to locate where the pendant ties on to the daggerboard. >>>>>> Unfortunately, our lake water is so murky that I can't really see any >>>>>> detail beyond that there is a diamondboard extending down from the >>>>> keel. I >>>>>> can't even see the line, but I can feel where it ties on. >>>>>> >>>>>> From reading past posts regarding the diamondboard, it appears like 6 - >>>>> 8' >>>>>> line should be sufficient. Does anyone recommend a specific type of >>>>> line? >>>>>> >>>>>> Here's my initial thoughts on steps to replace the pendant: >>>>>> 1) Remove the handle from the old pendant >>>>>> 2) Attach the handle to the new pendant >>>>>> 3) Attach the new pendant to the old pendant >>>>>> 4) Go below and pull the old pendant and keep pulling through until I >>> get >>>>>> to where the old and new pendant are attached >>>>>> 5) Separate the new and old pendant >>>>>> 6) Untie the old pendant from the diamondboard or cut it off >>>>>> 7) Tie the new pendant to the diamondboard using a bowline knot >>>>>> >>>>>> Some additional thoughts: >>>>>> >>>>>> There's not a lift available at our sailing club so attaching the new >>>>>> pendant will be an underwater adventure. Considering the visibility >>>>> level >>>>>> in the water is so low, I'll have to be doing a lot of this by feel >>> which >>>>>> means it will take longer than I can hold my breath. I'm going to see >>>>> if I >>>>>> can borrow some scuba gear from another sailor at the club. >>>>>> >>>>>> To attach the old and new pendants together, I'll use some very small >>>>> line >>>>>> to tie them together, or perhaps some glue and/or tape. It doesn't >>> look >>>>>> like there is enough room to tie the old and new pendant together with >>> a >>>>>> knot and still have it fit through the hole. >>>>>> >>>>>> I'm going to err on the side of using a longer than needed pendant line >>>>> and >>>>>> then cut it to length up top after it has been tied in from below. >>>>>> >>>>>> Does anyone have any pictures of where the pendant connects to the >>>>>> diamondboard? >>>>>> >>>>>> Are there any suggestions from the group before I proceed? >>>>>> >>>>>> Thanks, >>>>>> Jesse Shumaker >>>>>> S/V Zephyr >>>>>> -------------- next part -------------- >>>>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >>>>>> Name: 20200613_180407.jpg >>>>>> Type: image/jpeg >>>>>> Size: 497647 bytes >>>>>> Desc: not available >>>>>> URL: < >>>>>> >>>>> >>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200613/40791568/attachment.jpg >>>>>>> >>>>>> -------------- next part -------------- >>>>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >>>>>> Name: 20200613_180359.jpg >>>>>> Type: image/jpeg >>>>>> Size: 800238 bytes >>>>>> Desc: not available >>>>>> URL: < >>>>>> >>>>> >>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200613/40791568/attachment-0001.jpg >>>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>> >>> >> >> > From sloopblueheron at gmail.com Mon Jun 15 10:49:57 2020 From: sloopblueheron at gmail.com (Rick Lange) Date: Mon, 15 Jun 2020 10:49:57 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] installation of inline check valve for cockpit drain In-Reply-To: <4B1DF221-65D1-4E81-BE62-B9F31FCB9CC0@sunnybeeches.com> References: <1578539567926-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1592172544167-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <4B1DF221-65D1-4E81-BE62-B9F31FCB9CC0@sunnybeeches.com> Message-ID: I glue a v shaped rubber door stopper in front of the drain hole with the thick end just in front of the hole. This creates enough vacuum in the hole to keep the well dry with as many as 10 people aboard when the boat is moving. But don't let anyone look when docked. Regards, Rick Lange On Sun, Jun 14, 2020 at 9:24 PM Peter Nyberg wrote: > Jesse, > > Thanks for the follow-up report. Too often the list never finds out how > things work out in the long run. > > Peter Nyberg > Coventry, CT > s/v Silverheels (1988/2016) > > > On Jun 14, 2020, at 6:09 PM, Jesse Shumaker < > jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com> wrote: > > > > I realized that I said I would report back on this project. This > solution > > turns out to have worked well for my boat. Water readily drains from the > > cockpit but doesn't come back up through when stern heavy, as is the case > > when having multiple passengers in the cockpit. As Graham pointed out in > > this thread, this may not be a good idea if you're in an area that puts > you > > at risk for following seas coming over the stern since the draining rate > is > > reduced compared to a straight hose connection with no check valve. > > > > Jesse Shumaker > > S/V Zephyr > > > > > > > > -- > > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > > From stan at generalboats.com Mon Jun 15 11:49:37 2020 From: stan at generalboats.com (stan) Date: Mon, 15 Jun 2020 11:49:37 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Replacing diamondboard pendant In-Reply-To: <1DB81BC7-5FE1-44A7-BB5C-020CE0499FAC@stottarchitecture.com> References: <1DB81BC7-5FE1-44A7-BB5C-020CE0499FAC@stottarchitecture.com> Message-ID: <5bc181c1-8782-f50b-ee72-5d68b37df491@generalboats.com> If the cb pendant is simply pulled straight up and then folded over into the cleat, it takes a lot less energy and the line should last forever, From oehecht at gmail.com Mon Jun 15 13:33:20 2020 From: oehecht at gmail.com (Olivier Hecht) Date: Mon, 15 Jun 2020 13:33:20 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Replacing diamondboard pendant In-Reply-To: <5bc181c1-8782-f50b-ee72-5d68b37df491@generalboats.com> References: <1DB81BC7-5FE1-44A7-BB5C-020CE0499FAC@stottarchitecture.com> <5bc181c1-8782-f50b-ee72-5d68b37df491@generalboats.com> Message-ID: I just went through the process of pulling my diamondboard to repair it (on the trailer). Here is one picture where you can see the attachement point (right side of the board). There is a small metal ?loop? connected to the board with a bolt and the pendant passes through that loop. Kind of a tight fit but it will pass through. Mine was connected with a bowline knot. The path the pendant travels below the visible hole on deck is through a short piece of garden hose that?s connected to the back of that hole and a fitting on the centerboard cap. The only place I think you might feel any resistance to passing the new line through is where the hose connects to the cap, but it should fit fine. Hope this helps. On Mon, Jun 15, 2020 at 11:49 AM stan wrote: > > If the cb pendant is simply pulled straight up and then folded over into > the cleat, it takes a lot less energy and the line should last forever, > > -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_3756.jpg Type: image/jpg Size: 3263503 bytes Desc: not available URL: From jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com Mon Jun 15 17:05:32 2020 From: jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com (Jesse Shumaker) Date: Mon, 15 Jun 2020 16:05:32 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Replacing diamondboard pendant In-Reply-To: References: <1DB81BC7-5FE1-44A7-BB5C-020CE0499FAC@stottarchitecture.com> <5bc181c1-8782-f50b-ee72-5d68b37df491@generalboats.com> Message-ID: Olivier, thanks for the photo. Interestingly, the pendant for your diamondboard attaches slightly differently than the one in John's photo. On Mon, Jun 15, 2020 at 12:33 PM Olivier Hecht wrote: > I just went through the process of pulling my diamondboard to repair it (on > the trailer). Here is one picture where you can see the attachement point > (right side of the board). There is a small metal ?loop? connected to the > board with a bolt and the pendant passes through that loop. Kind of a tight > fit but it will pass through. Mine was connected with a bowline knot. The > path the pendant travels below the visible hole on deck is through a short > piece of garden hose that?s connected to the back of that hole and a > fitting on the centerboard cap. The only place I think you might feel any > resistance to passing the new line through is where the hose connects to > the cap, but it should fit fine. Hope this helps. > > On Mon, Jun 15, 2020 at 11:49 AM stan wrote: > > > > > If the cb pendant is simply pulled straight up and then folded over into > > the cleat, it takes a lot less energy and the line should last forever, > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: IMG_3756.jpg > Type: image/jpg > Size: 3263503 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200615/2ab8b68d/attachment.jpg > > > From jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com Mon Jun 15 17:11:32 2020 From: jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com (Jesse Shumaker) Date: Mon, 15 Jun 2020 16:11:32 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Replacing diamondboard pendant In-Reply-To: <1DB81BC7-5FE1-44A7-BB5C-020CE0499FAC@stottarchitecture.com> References: <1DB81BC7-5FE1-44A7-BB5C-020CE0499FAC@stottarchitecture.com> Message-ID: Hi Ric, the photo got stripped but your description led me to the right part. I measured and the opening where the pendant comes through to the cockpit on my boat is also 5/8". Thanks for the info. On Mon, Jun 15, 2020 at 8:22 AM Richard Stott wrote: > Hopefully the attached photo will stay attached. Where the pendant comes > to of the hull at the cam cleat, I have a plastic thru-hull fitting. > > > > Attwood Plastic Mushroom Head Thru-Hull Fitting - 5/8? > Please confirm diameter before purchase > > > Ric > Dadventure > HBNY > > Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP > www.stottarchitecture.com > Office 631-283-1777 > Cell 516-965-3164 > > > > > > > On Jun 14, 2020, at 4:10 PM, John Carlson via Rhodes22-list < > rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote: > > > > Well, this is a timely question ? I just tightened that last of the 54 > bolts holding the centerboard cap in place last night (my boat isn?t in the > water). For the second time. I do have some pics. My diamond board was in > rough shape. I don?t think it liked Lake Waco. > > > > I am not sure what the best way to attach images is. I am going to try > attaching them to this message, but I?ve also shared them on Dropbox here > (zipped together): > > > > https://www.dropbox.com/s/7tum1gvszoc8eom/rhodes-centerboard.zip?dl=0 < > https://www.dropbox.com/s/7tum1gvszoc8eom/rhodes-centerboard.zip?dl=0> > > > > While I am sure this can be done underwater, I am not sure I would be > brave enough to try it with zero visibility. Taking the centerboard cap off > and lifting the diamond board out should be done out of the water. It isn?t > easy either, but you can see what you are doing. > > > > > > John Carlson > > Lillipelli 2004 (recycled 2012) > > > > > > > >> On Jun 13, 2020, at 9:25 PM, Graham Stewart > wrote: > >> > >> Jesse: > >> I have the older centerboard so others might well have better advice. > >> > >> What you suggest should work. I have never tried to do this type of > work while the boat was in the water. I have always had the boat on the > trailer and removed the centerboard cap - which is, admittedly, a pita. The > advantage of doing it with the cap removed is that you get to inspect the > centerboard for damage and check all of the blocks to make sure they are > still working properly. Mine were not. > >> > >> My line is 12' long. It passes through a series of blocks so that when > the board is down it uses quite a bit more line than you might think. In > your circumstance I would not use less than 12'. Don't overlook tying the > bitter end of the new line inside the boat so that you don't pull the whole > line through. > >> > >> Use the same thickness of line as is currently installed. > >> > >> Given that you must pass through a series of blocks the join between > the lines should be strong and flexible. > >> > >> > >> If anything goes wrong - such as the line separating, you will want to > have a backup plan to get the boat on its trailer while the board is down. > Driving the boat onto the trailer should result in the board being lifted > automatically by the keel roller but I would want to test this on your rig > before committing to removing the line. > >> > >> Graham Stewart > >> gstewart8 at cogeco.ca > >> > >> -----Original Message----- > >> From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org>] On Behalf Of Jesse Shumaker > >> Sent: Saturday, June 13, 2020 9:21 PM > >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > >> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Replacing diamondboard pendant > >> > >> Hi all, > >> > >> My R22 was built in 1991 and refurbished in 2013 before I bought it. It > >> appears that my boat has the diamondboard (rather than centerboard) with > >> the direct pull line. As you can see from the attached photos, the > pendant > >> is wearing through to the point that I'm worried about it going all the > way > >> through so I want to replace the line before that happens. In the > photos, > >> I didn't quite pull the diamondboard all the way back (a little over 1" > >> from being fully pulled up) so you can see the fraying just before it > goes > >> in the hole. > >> > >> Today I put some goggles on, took a deep breath and dove under the boat > a > >> few times to locate where the pendant ties on to the daggerboard. > >> Unfortunately, our lake water is so murky that I can't really see any > >> detail beyond that there is a diamondboard extending down from the > keel. I > >> can't even see the line, but I can feel where it ties on. > >> > >> From reading past posts regarding the diamondboard, it appears like 6 - > 8' > >> line should be sufficient. Does anyone recommend a specific type of > line? > >> > >> Here's my initial thoughts on steps to replace the pendant: > >> 1) Remove the handle from the old pendant > >> 2) Attach the handle to the new pendant > >> 3) Attach the new pendant to the old pendant > >> 4) Go below and pull the old pendant and keep pulling through until I > get > >> to where the old and new pendant are attached > >> 5) Separate the new and old pendant > >> 6) Untie the old pendant from the diamondboard or cut it off > >> 7) Tie the new pendant to the diamondboard using a bowline knot > >> > >> Some additional thoughts: > >> > >> There's not a lift available at our sailing club so attaching the new > >> pendant will be an underwater adventure. Considering the visibility > level > >> in the water is so low, I'll have to be doing a lot of this by feel > which > >> means it will take longer than I can hold my breath. I'm going to see > if I > >> can borrow some scuba gear from another sailor at the club. > >> > >> To attach the old and new pendants together, I'll use some very small > line > >> to tie them together, or perhaps some glue and/or tape. It doesn't look > >> like there is enough room to tie the old and new pendant together with a > >> knot and still have it fit through the hole. > >> > >> I'm going to err on the side of using a longer than needed pendant line > and > >> then cut it to length up top after it has been tied in from below. > >> > >> Does anyone have any pictures of where the pendant connects to the > >> diamondboard? > >> > >> Are there any suggestions from the group before I proceed? > >> > >> Thanks, > >> Jesse Shumaker > >> S/V Zephyr > >> -------------- next part -------------- > >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > >> Name: 20200613_180407.jpg > >> Type: image/jpeg > >> Size: 497647 bytes > >> Desc: not available > >> URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200613/40791568/attachment.jpg > < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200613/40791568/attachment.jpg > >> > >> -------------- next part -------------- > >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > >> Name: 20200613_180359.jpg > >> Type: image/jpeg > >> Size: 800238 bytes > >> Desc: not available > >> URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200613/40791568/attachment-0001.jpg > < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200613/40791568/attachment-0001.jpg > >> > >> > > > > > >> On Jun 14, 2020, at 12:01 PM, ROGER PIHLAJA > wrote: > >> > >> Hi All, > >> > >> FYI, the use of a smaller line to establish a path for a larger line is > called ?sending a messenger line?. The term comes from the old days of > sailing when a small cannon was used to fire the messenger line from one > ship to another or from the beach to a foundering ship, to be followed up > with the larger line. The technique is still used right up to this day to > rig up hose from a tanker to another ship for refueling at sea. Even > nuclear powered aircraft carriers need regular deliveries of jet fuel for > their aircraft. > >> > >> Roger Pihlaja > >> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium > >> > >> Sent from Mail https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986>> for Windows 10 > >> > >> From: Jesse Shumaker > >> Sent: Sunday, June 14, 2020 10:23 AM > >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Replacing diamondboard pendant > >> > >> Ric, thanks for the note regarding the flange. I will address that as > >> well. It is good to know that it looks like I have some time before the > >> pendant parts in two. The guy at our sailing club with the SCUBA gear > is > >> out of town until late August or early September so this will be a > project > >> for late in the season. Until then, I'll avoid cleating where it is > >> wearing through. > >> > >> On Sun, Jun 14, 2020 at 6:58 AM Ric Stott > wrote: > >> > >>> If you carefully tape the new line to old with electrical tape, but > end to > >>> but end you should be able to pull a new line through, even if yo have > the > >>> old style CB with blocks. Be sure to use flexible line of the same > >>> diameter. > >>> One observation of you photo at the frayed line. You are missing a > plastic > >>> flange to the top of the pendant hole in the fiberglass. The flange is > >>> rounded and helps prevent the wear you are observing. Lastly. You have > >>> some time before the pendant wears thru. > >>> Ric > >>> Dadventure > >>> HBNY > >>> > >>> Sent from my iPhone > >>> > >>>> On Jun 14, 2020, at 7:32 AM, Jesse Shumaker < > >>> jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com> wrote: > >>>> > >>>> ?Hi Rick, thanks for your input. I like your idea to use the fishing > as > >>> a > >>>> threader and I plan to do that. > >>>> > >>>> I have been pulling up the board when in my slip because the boat gets > >>> some > >>>> side to side roll and the board can knock around a bit. Also, I pull > up > >>>> the board at least part way when I am pulling in my slip when wind is > >>>> coming off the lake at my stern. I go past my slip just a bit and > then > >>>> quickly turn to head up into the wind slightly before turning into my > >>>> slip. It gets pretty shallow past my slip (there's only one more boat > >>>> towards the beach after mine) so pulling up the board lessens the > draft > >>> to > >>>> give some room when executing that maneuver. > >>>> > >>>> I might hold off on replacing the pennant until it is hauled out as > >>>> suggested. Until then, when I need to pull up the board, I suppose > that > >>> I > >>>> could just pull it up part of the way so the frayed portion of the > line > >>> is > >>>> not resting in the cleat. > >>>> > >>>>> On Sat, Jun 13, 2020 at 9:56 PM Rick Lange > > >>> wrote: > >>>>> > >>>>> Jesse, > >>>>> > >>>>> If your boat stays wet all season, why do you have to pull the board > up? > >>>>> If you need to knock off mussels, just pull it up and down a couple > >>> inches > >>>>> each week. Replace the pennant more easily when the boat is hauled > out. > >>>>> > >>>>> There isn't enough room to pull through the knot tying together the > old > >>> and > >>>>> new pennants. Use fishing line as a threader. > >>>>> > >>>>> Regards, > >>>>> > >>>>> Rick Lange > >>>>> > >>>>> > >>>>> On Sat, Jun 13, 2020 at 9:20 PM Jesse Shumaker < > >>>>> jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com> wrote: > >>>>> > >>>>>> Hi all, > >>>>>> > >>>>>> My R22 was built in 1991 and refurbished in 2013 before I bought it. > >>> It > >>>>>> appears that my boat has the diamondboard (rather than centerboard) > >>> with > >>>>>> the direct pull line. As you can see from the attached photos, the > >>>>> pendant > >>>>>> is wearing through to the point that I'm worried about it going all > the > >>>>> way > >>>>>> through so I want to replace the line before that happens. In the > >>>>> photos, > >>>>>> I didn't quite pull the diamondboard all the way back (a little > over 1" > >>>>>> from being fully pulled up) so you can see the fraying just before > it > >>>>> goes > >>>>>> in the hole. > >>>>>> > >>>>>> Today I put some goggles on, took a deep breath and dove under the > >>> boat a > >>>>>> few times to locate where the pendant ties on to the daggerboard. > >>>>>> Unfortunately, our lake water is so murky that I can't really see > any > >>>>>> detail beyond that there is a diamondboard extending down from the > >>>>> keel. I > >>>>>> can't even see the line, but I can feel where it ties on. > >>>>>> > >>>>>> From reading past posts regarding the diamondboard, it appears like > 6 - > >>>>> 8' > >>>>>> line should be sufficient. Does anyone recommend a specific type of > >>>>> line? > >>>>>> > >>>>>> Here's my initial thoughts on steps to replace the pendant: > >>>>>> 1) Remove the handle from the old pendant > >>>>>> 2) Attach the handle to the new pendant > >>>>>> 3) Attach the new pendant to the old pendant > >>>>>> 4) Go below and pull the old pendant and keep pulling through until > I > >>> get > >>>>>> to where the old and new pendant are attached > >>>>>> 5) Separate the new and old pendant > >>>>>> 6) Untie the old pendant from the diamondboard or cut it off > >>>>>> 7) Tie the new pendant to the diamondboard using a bowline knot > >>>>>> > >>>>>> Some additional thoughts: > >>>>>> > >>>>>> There's not a lift available at our sailing club so attaching the > new > >>>>>> pendant will be an underwater adventure. Considering the visibility > >>>>> level > >>>>>> in the water is so low, I'll have to be doing a lot of this by feel > >>> which > >>>>>> means it will take longer than I can hold my breath. I'm going to > see > >>>>> if I > >>>>>> can borrow some scuba gear from another sailor at the club. > >>>>>> > >>>>>> To attach the old and new pendants together, I'll use some very > small > >>>>> line > >>>>>> to tie them together, or perhaps some glue and/or tape. It doesn't > >>> look > >>>>>> like there is enough room to tie the old and new pendant together > with > >>> a > >>>>>> knot and still have it fit through the hole. > >>>>>> > >>>>>> I'm going to err on the side of using a longer than needed pendant > line > >>>>> and > >>>>>> then cut it to length up top after it has been tied in from below. > >>>>>> > >>>>>> Does anyone have any pictures of where the pendant connects to the > >>>>>> diamondboard? > >>>>>> > >>>>>> Are there any suggestions from the group before I proceed? > >>>>>> > >>>>>> Thanks, > >>>>>> Jesse Shumaker > >>>>>> S/V Zephyr > >>>>>> -------------- next part -------------- > >>>>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > >>>>>> Name: 20200613_180407.jpg > >>>>>> Type: image/jpeg > >>>>>> Size: 497647 bytes > >>>>>> Desc: not available > >>>>>> URL: < > >>>>>> > >>>>> > >>> > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200613/40791568/attachment.jpg > >>>>>>> > >>>>>> -------------- next part -------------- > >>>>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > >>>>>> Name: 20200613_180359.jpg > >>>>>> Type: image/jpeg > >>>>>> Size: 800238 bytes > >>>>>> Desc: not available > >>>>>> URL: < > >>>>>> > >>>>> > >>> > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200613/40791568/attachment-0001.jpg > >>>>>>> > >>>>>> > >>>>> > >>> > >> > >> > > > > From gstewart8 at cogeco.ca Mon Jun 15 18:29:01 2020 From: gstewart8 at cogeco.ca (Graham Stewart) Date: Mon, 15 Jun 2020 18:29:01 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] installation of inline check valve for cockpit drain In-Reply-To: References: <1578539567926-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1592172544167-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <4B1DF221-65D1-4E81-BE62-B9F31FCB9CC0@sunnybeeches.com> Message-ID: <009a01d64364$61332260$23996720$@ca> Clever! Graham Stewart gstewart8 at cogeco.ca -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Rick Lange Sent: Monday, June 15, 2020 10:50 AM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] installation of inline check valve for cockpit drain I glue a v shaped rubber door stopper in front of the drain hole with the thick end just in front of the hole. This creates enough vacuum in the hole to keep the well dry with as many as 10 people aboard when the boat is moving. But don't let anyone look when docked. Regards, Rick Lange On Sun, Jun 14, 2020 at 9:24 PM Peter Nyberg wrote: > Jesse, > > Thanks for the follow-up report. Too often the list never finds out how > things work out in the long run. > > Peter Nyberg > Coventry, CT > s/v Silverheels (1988/2016) > > > On Jun 14, 2020, at 6:09 PM, Jesse Shumaker < > jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com> wrote: > > > > I realized that I said I would report back on this project. This > solution > > turns out to have worked well for my boat. Water readily drains from the > > cockpit but doesn't come back up through when stern heavy, as is the case > > when having multiple passengers in the cockpit. As Graham pointed out in > > this thread, this may not be a good idea if you're in an area that puts > you > > at risk for following seas coming over the stern since the draining rate > is > > reduced compared to a straight hose connection with no check valve. > > > > Jesse Shumaker > > S/V Zephyr > > > > > > > > -- > > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > > From mark at whipplefamily.com Mon Jun 15 20:10:52 2020 From: mark at whipplefamily.com (Mark Whipple) Date: Mon, 15 Jun 2020 20:10:52 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] CB Pennant drain Message-ID: Hi All, If this is in the archives somewhere let me know. I've done a little searching on Nabble and didn't find what I needed. I need to replace the hose that connects the drain the CB/diamondboard pennant runs through. It looks like the OD of the lower section (closer to the CB) is 7/8" OD. The top section where the pennant exits is about 1" ID, so I'm guessing it's about 1 1/4" OD. Total possible length looks to be about 10". The difference in diameters partially explains the abomination that I removed. Someone tried to mate two different hoses with clamps and lots of silicone. What has worked well for you in replacing this drain hose? I am wondering if I can get a hose that will fit the upper part of the drain, and then use a modified section of that same hose to bring the bottom fitting closer to 1 1/4". Then I'd put the larger hose over the smaller one, clamping the smaller section low and then the larger, overlapping hose as well. Thanks Mark Whipple Boston, MA 2000 R22 Luna Mia 1986 Nimble 30 (for sale) 1982 ComPac 16 (for sale) From mark at whipplefamily.com Mon Jun 15 20:19:44 2020 From: mark at whipplefamily.com (Mark Whipple) Date: Mon, 15 Jun 2020 20:19:44 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Solar Panel wiring Message-ID: A second project I'm working on: the starboard solar panel was not charging the battery. It is connected to the "house" battery which is beside the head, on the port side. I found that one of the wires in the two wire cable is not passing current. I suspect that there's a splice just below where it comes through the cabin roof. In any case I need to trace that cable through to find the problem. The question: what do I need to remove to get at the underside of the starboard solar panel? Before I start removing screws it would be good to have a plan - even if the plan has to change in mid stream. Of course, I may just connect the two batteries temporarily to keep them charged and go sailing. Eventually. Thanks, Mark Whipple Boston MA 2000 R22 Luna Mia 1986 Nimble 30 (for sale) 1982 ComPac 16 (for sale) From stan at generalboats.com Tue Jun 16 04:52:04 2020 From: stan at generalboats.com (stan) Date: Tue, 16 Jun 2020 04:52:04 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anyone have an extra outhaul car? In-Reply-To: <1592224697176-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1592216334025-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1592224697176-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: per:? www.rhodes22parts.com ??????? "Parts" page Courtesy Parts Inquiry good until Oct 8th 2020 ??? ??? ? number GB28??? OUTHAUL CAR ?? ??? ?? number GB29??? TRAVELER INVENTION /visit? Newsy Stuff page// / Please Note:??? Parts orders Division: ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ?? 825 Soundside Road ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ?? Edenton,? NC? 27932 stan On 6/15/20 8:38 AM, JeffSmith wrote:Hi Stan, > How much for each? Jeff Smith > 2009 R22 #101 RADIANT > Atlantic Highlands Municpal Harbor > Atlantic Highlands, NJ > > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > From ric at stottarchitecture.com Tue Jun 16 07:35:26 2020 From: ric at stottarchitecture.com (Ric Stott) Date: Tue, 16 Jun 2020 07:35:26 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Replacing diamondboard pendant In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Sure would like to know how to insert photos without buying a PC. I?m aMAC guy and heavily invested in kick- ass graphic computers that can create photo real 3D images and movies but I can?t attach a tiny photo to an email server. On another note. I must admit I?m a little envious of you Diamond board folks because it solves the most vulnerable weak spot of the R22. I moor my boat in the shallows of Shinnecock Bay. Indeed, it?s the only sailboat moored in the Bay. At the lowest of tides, the bottom of the CB trunk is brushing the Sandy/stony bottom. Sometimes a small rock will lodge between the trunk and the CB and jamb the operation. A mask snorkel and screw driver at high tide frees it. If I forget my mental checklist and leave the CB down or even partially down when I return to the mooring - when the tide goes out, it can ruin the boat. The only worse case is the launch without the CB locked in the up position. Don?t ever do that!! I can promise a bad outcome. Ric. Sent from my iPhone > On Jun 15, 2020, at 5:11 PM, Jesse Shumaker wrote: > > ?Hi Ric, the photo got stripped but your description led me to the right > part. I measured and the opening where the pendant comes through to the > cockpit on my boat is also 5/8". Thanks for the info. > >> On Mon, Jun 15, 2020 at 8:22 AM Richard Stott >> wrote: >> >> Hopefully the attached photo will stay attached. Where the pendant comes >> to of the hull at the cam cleat, I have a plastic thru-hull fitting. >> >> >> >> Attwood Plastic Mushroom Head Thru-Hull Fitting - 5/8? >> Please confirm diameter before purchase >> >> >> Ric >> Dadventure >> HBNY >> >> Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP >> www.stottarchitecture.com >> Office 631-283-1777 >> Cell 516-965-3164 >> >> >> >> >> >>> On Jun 14, 2020, at 4:10 PM, John Carlson via Rhodes22-list < >> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote: >>> >>> Well, this is a timely question ? I just tightened that last of the 54 >> bolts holding the centerboard cap in place last night (my boat isn?t in the >> water). For the second time. I do have some pics. My diamond board was in >> rough shape. I don?t think it liked Lake Waco. >>> >>> I am not sure what the best way to attach images is. I am going to try >> attaching them to this message, but I?ve also shared them on Dropbox here >> (zipped together): >>> >>> https://www.dropbox.com/s/7tum1gvszoc8eom/rhodes-centerboard.zip?dl=0 < >> https://www.dropbox.com/s/7tum1gvszoc8eom/rhodes-centerboard.zip?dl=0> >>> >>> While I am sure this can be done underwater, I am not sure I would be >> brave enough to try it with zero visibility. Taking the centerboard cap off >> and lifting the diamond board out should be done out of the water. It isn?t >> easy either, but you can see what you are doing. >>> >>> >>> John Carlson >>> Lillipelli 2004 (recycled 2012) >>> >>> >>> >>>> On Jun 13, 2020, at 9:25 PM, Graham Stewart > > wrote: >>>> >>>> Jesse: >>>> I have the older centerboard so others might well have better advice. >>>> >>>> What you suggest should work. I have never tried to do this type of >> work while the boat was in the water. I have always had the boat on the >> trailer and removed the centerboard cap - which is, admittedly, a pita. The >> advantage of doing it with the cap removed is that you get to inspect the >> centerboard for damage and check all of the blocks to make sure they are >> still working properly. Mine were not. >>>> >>>> My line is 12' long. It passes through a series of blocks so that when >> the board is down it uses quite a bit more line than you might think. In >> your circumstance I would not use less than 12'. Don't overlook tying the >> bitter end of the new line inside the boat so that you don't pull the whole >> line through. >>>> >>>> Use the same thickness of line as is currently installed. >>>> >>>> Given that you must pass through a series of blocks the join between >> the lines should be strong and flexible. >>>> >>>> >>>> If anything goes wrong - such as the line separating, you will want to >> have a backup plan to get the boat on its trailer while the board is down. >> Driving the boat onto the trailer should result in the board being lifted >> automatically by the keel roller but I would want to test this on your rig >> before committing to removing the line. >>>> >>>> Graham Stewart >>>> gstewart8 at cogeco.ca >>>> >>>> -----Original Message----- >>>> From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org > rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org>] On Behalf Of Jesse Shumaker >>>> Sent: Saturday, June 13, 2020 9:21 PM >>>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List >>>> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Replacing diamondboard pendant >>>> >>>> Hi all, >>>> >>>> My R22 was built in 1991 and refurbished in 2013 before I bought it. It >>>> appears that my boat has the diamondboard (rather than centerboard) with >>>> the direct pull line. As you can see from the attached photos, the >> pendant >>>> is wearing through to the point that I'm worried about it going all the >> way >>>> through so I want to replace the line before that happens. In the >> photos, >>>> I didn't quite pull the diamondboard all the way back (a little over 1" >>>> from being fully pulled up) so you can see the fraying just before it >> goes >>>> in the hole. >>>> >>>> Today I put some goggles on, took a deep breath and dove under the boat >> a >>>> few times to locate where the pendant ties on to the daggerboard. >>>> Unfortunately, our lake water is so murky that I can't really see any >>>> detail beyond that there is a diamondboard extending down from the >> keel. I >>>> can't even see the line, but I can feel where it ties on. >>>> >>>> From reading past posts regarding the diamondboard, it appears like 6 - >> 8' >>>> line should be sufficient. Does anyone recommend a specific type of >> line? >>>> >>>> Here's my initial thoughts on steps to replace the pendant: >>>> 1) Remove the handle from the old pendant >>>> 2) Attach the handle to the new pendant >>>> 3) Attach the new pendant to the old pendant >>>> 4) Go below and pull the old pendant and keep pulling through until I >> get >>>> to where the old and new pendant are attached >>>> 5) Separate the new and old pendant >>>> 6) Untie the old pendant from the diamondboard or cut it off >>>> 7) Tie the new pendant to the diamondboard using a bowline knot >>>> >>>> Some additional thoughts: >>>> >>>> There's not a lift available at our sailing club so attaching the new >>>> pendant will be an underwater adventure. Considering the visibility >> level >>>> in the water is so low, I'll have to be doing a lot of this by feel >> which >>>> means it will take longer than I can hold my breath. I'm going to see >> if I >>>> can borrow some scuba gear from another sailor at the club. >>>> >>>> To attach the old and new pendants together, I'll use some very small >> line >>>> to tie them together, or perhaps some glue and/or tape. It doesn't look >>>> like there is enough room to tie the old and new pendant together with a >>>> knot and still have it fit through the hole. >>>> >>>> I'm going to err on the side of using a longer than needed pendant line >> and >>>> then cut it to length up top after it has been tied in from below. >>>> >>>> Does anyone have any pictures of where the pendant connects to the >>>> diamondboard? >>>> >>>> Are there any suggestions from the group before I proceed? >>>> >>>> Thanks, >>>> Jesse Shumaker >>>> S/V Zephyr >>>> -------------- next part -------------- >>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >>>> Name: 20200613_180407.jpg >>>> Type: image/jpeg >>>> Size: 497647 bytes >>>> Desc: not available >>>> URL: < >> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200613/40791568/attachment.jpg >> < >> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200613/40791568/attachment.jpg >>>> >>>> -------------- next part -------------- >>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >>>> Name: 20200613_180359.jpg >>>> Type: image/jpeg >>>> Size: 800238 bytes >>>> Desc: not available >>>> URL: < >> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200613/40791568/attachment-0001.jpg >> < >> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200613/40791568/attachment-0001.jpg >>>> >>>> >>> >>> >>>> On Jun 14, 2020, at 12:01 PM, ROGER PIHLAJA >> wrote: >>>> >>>> Hi All, >>>> >>>> FYI, the use of a smaller line to establish a path for a larger line is >> called ?sending a messenger line?. The term comes from the old days of >> sailing when a small cannon was used to fire the messenger line from one >> ship to another or from the beach to a foundering ship, to be followed up >> with the larger line. The technique is still used right up to this day to >> rig up hose from a tanker to another ship for refueling at sea. Even >> nuclear powered aircraft carriers need regular deliveries of jet fuel for >> their aircraft. >>>> >>>> Roger Pihlaja >>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium >>>> >>>> Sent from Mail> https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986>> for Windows 10 >>>> >>>> From: Jesse Shumaker >>>> Sent: Sunday, June 14, 2020 10:23 AM >>>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List >>>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Replacing diamondboard pendant >>>> >>>> Ric, thanks for the note regarding the flange. I will address that as >>>> well. It is good to know that it looks like I have some time before the >>>> pendant parts in two. The guy at our sailing club with the SCUBA gear >> is >>>> out of town until late August or early September so this will be a >> project >>>> for late in the season. Until then, I'll avoid cleating where it is >>>> wearing through. >>>> >>>> On Sun, Jun 14, 2020 at 6:58 AM Ric Stott >> wrote: >>>> >>>>> If you carefully tape the new line to old with electrical tape, but >> end to >>>>> but end you should be able to pull a new line through, even if yo have >> the >>>>> old style CB with blocks. Be sure to use flexible line of the same >>>>> diameter. >>>>> One observation of you photo at the frayed line. You are missing a >> plastic >>>>> flange to the top of the pendant hole in the fiberglass. The flange is >>>>> rounded and helps prevent the wear you are observing. Lastly. You have >>>>> some time before the pendant wears thru. >>>>> Ric >>>>> Dadventure >>>>> HBNY >>>>> >>>>> Sent from my iPhone >>>>> >>>>>> On Jun 14, 2020, at 7:32 AM, Jesse Shumaker < >>>>> jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com> wrote: >>>>>> >>>>>> ?Hi Rick, thanks for your input. I like your idea to use the fishing >> as >>>>> a >>>>>> threader and I plan to do that. >>>>>> >>>>>> I have been pulling up the board when in my slip because the boat gets >>>>> some >>>>>> side to side roll and the board can knock around a bit. Also, I pull >> up >>>>>> the board at least part way when I am pulling in my slip when wind is >>>>>> coming off the lake at my stern. I go past my slip just a bit and >> then >>>>>> quickly turn to head up into the wind slightly before turning into my >>>>>> slip. It gets pretty shallow past my slip (there's only one more boat >>>>>> towards the beach after mine) so pulling up the board lessens the >> draft >>>>> to >>>>>> give some room when executing that maneuver. >>>>>> >>>>>> I might hold off on replacing the pennant until it is hauled out as >>>>>> suggested. Until then, when I need to pull up the board, I suppose >> that >>>>> I >>>>>> could just pull it up part of the way so the frayed portion of the >> line >>>>> is >>>>>> not resting in the cleat. >>>>>> >>>>>>> On Sat, Jun 13, 2020 at 9:56 PM Rick Lange >> >>>>> wrote: >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Jesse, >>>>>>> >>>>>>> If your boat stays wet all season, why do you have to pull the board >> up? >>>>>>> If you need to knock off mussels, just pull it up and down a couple >>>>> inches >>>>>>> each week. Replace the pennant more easily when the boat is hauled >> out. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> There isn't enough room to pull through the knot tying together the >> old >>>>> and >>>>>>> new pennants. Use fishing line as a threader. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Regards, >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Rick Lange >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> On Sat, Jun 13, 2020 at 9:20 PM Jesse Shumaker < >>>>>>> jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com> wrote: >>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Hi all, >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> My R22 was built in 1991 and refurbished in 2013 before I bought it. >>>>> It >>>>>>>> appears that my boat has the diamondboard (rather than centerboard) >>>>> with >>>>>>>> the direct pull line. As you can see from the attached photos, the >>>>>>> pendant >>>>>>>> is wearing through to the point that I'm worried about it going all >> the >>>>>>> way >>>>>>>> through so I want to replace the line before that happens. In the >>>>>>> photos, >>>>>>>> I didn't quite pull the diamondboard all the way back (a little >> over 1" >>>>>>>> from being fully pulled up) so you can see the fraying just before >> it >>>>>>> goes >>>>>>>> in the hole. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Today I put some goggles on, took a deep breath and dove under the >>>>> boat a >>>>>>>> few times to locate where the pendant ties on to the daggerboard. >>>>>>>> Unfortunately, our lake water is so murky that I can't really see >> any >>>>>>>> detail beyond that there is a diamondboard extending down from the >>>>>>> keel. I >>>>>>>> can't even see the line, but I can feel where it ties on. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> From reading past posts regarding the diamondboard, it appears like >> 6 - >>>>>>> 8' >>>>>>>> line should be sufficient. Does anyone recommend a specific type of >>>>>>> line? >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Here's my initial thoughts on steps to replace the pendant: >>>>>>>> 1) Remove the handle from the old pendant >>>>>>>> 2) Attach the handle to the new pendant >>>>>>>> 3) Attach the new pendant to the old pendant >>>>>>>> 4) Go below and pull the old pendant and keep pulling through until >> I >>>>> get >>>>>>>> to where the old and new pendant are attached >>>>>>>> 5) Separate the new and old pendant >>>>>>>> 6) Untie the old pendant from the diamondboard or cut it off >>>>>>>> 7) Tie the new pendant to the diamondboard using a bowline knot >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Some additional thoughts: >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> There's not a lift available at our sailing club so attaching the >> new >>>>>>>> pendant will be an underwater adventure. Considering the visibility >>>>>>> level >>>>>>>> in the water is so low, I'll have to be doing a lot of this by feel >>>>> which >>>>>>>> means it will take longer than I can hold my breath. I'm going to >> see >>>>>>> if I >>>>>>>> can borrow some scuba gear from another sailor at the club. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> To attach the old and new pendants together, I'll use some very >> small >>>>>>> line >>>>>>>> to tie them together, or perhaps some glue and/or tape. It doesn't >>>>> look >>>>>>>> like there is enough room to tie the old and new pendant together >> with >>>>> a >>>>>>>> knot and still have it fit through the hole. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> I'm going to err on the side of using a longer than needed pendant >> line >>>>>>> and >>>>>>>> then cut it to length up top after it has been tied in from below. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Does anyone have any pictures of where the pendant connects to the >>>>>>>> diamondboard? >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Are there any suggestions from the group before I proceed? >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Thanks, >>>>>>>> Jesse Shumaker >>>>>>>> S/V Zephyr >>>>>>>> -------------- next part -------------- >>>>>>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >>>>>>>> Name: 20200613_180407.jpg >>>>>>>> Type: image/jpeg >>>>>>>> Size: 497647 bytes >>>>>>>> Desc: not available >>>>>>>> URL: < >>>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>> >> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200613/40791568/attachment.jpg >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> -------------- next part -------------- >>>>>>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >>>>>>>> Name: 20200613_180359.jpg >>>>>>>> Type: image/jpeg >>>>>>>> Size: 800238 bytes >>>>>>>> Desc: not available >>>>>>>> URL: < >>>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>> >> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200613/40791568/attachment-0001.jpg >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>> >>>> >>>> >>> >> >> From tvpolise at aol.com Tue Jun 16 18:58:07 2020 From: tvpolise at aol.com (THOMAS POLISE) Date: Tue, 16 Jun 2020 18:58:07 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Redo References: Message-ID: A while ago someone asked why anyone would want to spend time working on a boat. To me it was to make it better, make it unique and make it fit my personal needs. I spent the last three months ripping the entire cabin out and rebuilding and rewiring her from the hull up to be more of a daysailer than cruiser and am very happy with results. Was it worth it? I asked myself that Several times when knee deep in it but after finished (for now) I?d have to say yes. Thanks to Peter Nyberg for inspiring me with all his videos. -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0003.JPEG Type: image/jpeg Size: 92026 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_4030.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 97170 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0004.JPEG Type: image/jpeg Size: 96202 bytes Desc: not available URL: From john_carlson at mac.com Tue Jun 16 19:29:34 2020 From: john_carlson at mac.com (John Carlson) Date: Tue, 16 Jun 2020 18:29:34 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Redo In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Wow, that looks amazing! So airy. Fantastic work. > On Jun 16, 2020, at 5:58 PM, THOMAS POLISE via Rhodes22-list wrote: > > ?A while ago someone asked why anyone would want to spend time working on a boat. To me it was to make it better, make it unique and make it fit my personal needs. I spent the last three months ripping the entire cabin out and rebuilding and rewiring her from the hull up to be more of a daysailer than cruiser and am very happy with results. Was it worth it? I asked myself that Several times when knee deep in it but after finished (for now) I?d have to say yes. Thanks to Peter Nyberg for inspiring me with all his videos. > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: IMG_0003.JPEG > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 92026 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: > -------------- next part -------------- > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: IMG_4030.JPG > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 97170 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: > -------------- next part -------------- > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: IMG_0004.JPEG > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 96202 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: From blue66corvette at hotmail.com Tue Jun 16 19:40:39 2020 From: blue66corvette at hotmail.com (Charles Nieman) Date: Tue, 16 Jun 2020 23:40:39 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Redo In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: Beautiful......in only 3 months???? You must have worked hard. Sent from my iPhone Charles Nieman 469-955-9842 > On Jun 16, 2020, at 5:58 PM, THOMAS POLISE via Rhodes22-list wrote: > > ?A while ago someone asked why anyone would want to spend time working on a boat. To me it was to make it better, make it unique and make it fit my personal needs. I spent the last three months ripping the entire cabin out and rebuilding and rewiring her from the hull up to be more of a daysailer than cruiser and am very happy with results. Was it worth it? I asked myself that Several times when knee deep in it but after finished (for now) I?d have to say yes. Thanks to Peter Nyberg for inspiring me with all his videos. > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: IMG_0003.JPEG > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 92026 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: > -------------- next part -------------- > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: IMG_4030.JPG > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 97170 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: > -------------- next part -------------- > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: IMG_0004.JPEG > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 96202 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: From tvpolise at aol.com Tue Jun 16 20:11:14 2020 From: tvpolise at aol.com (THOMAS POLISE) Date: Tue, 16 Jun 2020 20:11:14 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Redo In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <07D86304-D677-4216-A7CD-6FF3FF9DEC50@aol.com> Day and night. I?m calling in my Corona time well spent. > On Jun 16, 2020, at 7:40 PM, Charles Nieman wrote: > > ?Beautiful......in only 3 months???? > > You must have worked hard. > > Sent from my iPhone > > Charles Nieman > 469-955-9842 > >> On Jun 16, 2020, at 5:58 PM, THOMAS POLISE via Rhodes22-list wrote: >> >> ?A while ago someone asked why anyone would want to spend time working on a boat. To me it was to make it better, make it unique and make it fit my personal needs. I spent the last three months ripping the entire cabin out and rebuilding and rewiring her from the hull up to be more of a daysailer than cruiser and am very happy with results. Was it worth it? I asked myself that Several times when knee deep in it but after finished (for now) I?d have to say yes. Thanks to Peter Nyberg for inspiring me with all his videos. >> >> -------------- next part -------------- >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >> Name: IMG_0003.JPEG >> Type: image/jpeg >> Size: 92026 bytes >> Desc: not available >> URL: >> -------------- next part -------------- >> >> >> >> -------------- next part -------------- >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >> Name: IMG_4030.JPG >> Type: image/jpeg >> Size: 97170 bytes >> Desc: not available >> URL: >> -------------- next part -------------- >> >> >> >> -------------- next part -------------- >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >> Name: IMG_0004.JPEG >> Type: image/jpeg >> Size: 96202 bytes >> Desc: not available >> URL: From rbeytagh at gmail.com Tue Jun 16 20:28:03 2020 From: rbeytagh at gmail.com (Richard Beytagh) Date: Tue, 16 Jun 2020 20:28:03 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Redo In-Reply-To: <07D86304-D677-4216-A7CD-6FF3FF9DEC50@aol.com> References: <07D86304-D677-4216-A7CD-6FF3FF9DEC50@aol.com> Message-ID: Very nice timber, but did it add a lot of weight? ~~~ _/) ~~~ Richard Beytagh Phone: 828 337 0180 On Tue, Jun 16, 2020 at 8:11 PM THOMAS POLISE via Rhodes22-list < rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote: > Day and night. I?m calling in my Corona time well spent. > > > On Jun 16, 2020, at 7:40 PM, Charles Nieman > wrote: > > > > ?Beautiful......in only 3 months???? > > > > You must have worked hard. > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > Charles Nieman > > 469-955-9842 > > > >> On Jun 16, 2020, at 5:58 PM, THOMAS POLISE via Rhodes22-list < > rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote: > >> > >> ?A while ago someone asked why anyone would want to spend time working > on a boat. To me it was to make it better, make it unique and make it fit > my personal needs. I spent the last three months ripping the entire cabin > out and rebuilding and rewiring her from the hull up to be more of a > daysailer than cruiser and am very happy with results. Was it worth it? > I asked myself that Several times when knee deep in it but after finished > (for now) I?d have to say yes. Thanks to Peter Nyberg for inspiring me > with all his videos. > >> > >> -------------- next part -------------- > >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > >> Name: IMG_0003.JPEG > >> Type: image/jpeg > >> Size: 92026 bytes > >> Desc: not available > >> URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200616/72beda81/attachment.jpe > > > >> -------------- next part -------------- > >> > >> > >> > >> -------------- next part -------------- > >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > >> Name: IMG_4030.JPG > >> Type: image/jpeg > >> Size: 97170 bytes > >> Desc: not available > >> URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200616/72beda81/attachment-0001.jpe > > > >> -------------- next part -------------- > >> > >> > >> > >> -------------- next part -------------- > >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > >> Name: IMG_0004.JPEG > >> Type: image/jpeg > >> Size: 96202 bytes > >> Desc: not available > >> URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200616/72beda81/attachment-0002.jpe > > > > From tvpolise at aol.com Tue Jun 16 20:36:40 2020 From: tvpolise at aol.com (THOMAS POLISE) Date: Tue, 16 Jun 2020 20:36:40 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Redo In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Not really. I removed both tanks and converted tank area to storage and, the tiger wood flooring was not much heavier than the plywood it replaced. > On Jun 16, 2020, at 8:28 PM, Richard Beytagh wrote: > > ? > Very nice timber, but did it add a lot of weight? > > > ~~~ _/) ~~~ > > Richard Beytagh > Phone: 828 337 0180 > > >> On Tue, Jun 16, 2020 at 8:11 PM THOMAS POLISE via Rhodes22-list wrote: >> Day and night. I?m calling in my Corona time well spent. >> >> > On Jun 16, 2020, at 7:40 PM, Charles Nieman wrote: >> > >> > ?Beautiful......in only 3 months???? >> > >> > You must have worked hard. >> > >> > Sent from my iPhone >> > >> > Charles Nieman >> > 469-955-9842 >> > >> >> On Jun 16, 2020, at 5:58 PM, THOMAS POLISE via Rhodes22-list wrote: >> >> >> >> ?A while ago someone asked why anyone would want to spend time working on a boat. To me it was to make it better, make it unique and make it fit my personal needs. I spent the last three months ripping the entire cabin out and rebuilding and rewiring her from the hull up to be more of a daysailer than cruiser and am very happy with results. Was it worth it? I asked myself that Several times when knee deep in it but after finished (for now) I?d have to say yes. Thanks to Peter Nyberg for inspiring me with all his videos. >> >> >> >> -------------- next part -------------- >> >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >> >> Name: IMG_0003.JPEG >> >> Type: image/jpeg >> >> Size: 92026 bytes >> >> Desc: not available >> >> URL: >> >> -------------- next part -------------- >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> -------------- next part -------------- >> >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >> >> Name: IMG_4030.JPG >> >> Type: image/jpeg >> >> Size: 97170 bytes >> >> Desc: not available >> >> URL: >> >> -------------- next part -------------- >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> -------------- next part -------------- >> >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >> >> Name: IMG_0004.JPEG >> >> Type: image/jpeg >> >> Size: 96202 bytes >> >> Desc: not available >> >> URL: >> From jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com Tue Jun 16 20:52:53 2020 From: jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com (Jesse Shumaker) Date: Tue, 16 Jun 2020 19:52:53 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Redo In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Great work! The chart inlaid on the galley table is a nice touch. On Tue, Jun 16, 2020, 5:58 PM THOMAS POLISE via Rhodes22-list < rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote: > A while ago someone asked why anyone would want to spend time working on a > boat. To me it was to make it better, make it unique and make it fit my > personal needs. I spent the last three months ripping the entire cabin out > and rebuilding and rewiring her from the hull up to be more of a daysailer > than cruiser and am very happy with results. Was it worth it? I asked > myself that Several times when knee deep in it but after finished (for now) > I?d have to say yes. Thanks to Peter Nyberg for inspiring me with all his > videos. > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: IMG_0003.JPEG > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 92026 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200616/72beda81/attachment.jpe > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: IMG_4030.JPG > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 97170 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200616/72beda81/attachment-0001.jpe > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: IMG_0004.JPEG > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 96202 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200616/72beda81/attachment-0002.jpe > > > From peter at sunnybeeches.com Tue Jun 16 21:00:56 2020 From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg) Date: Tue, 16 Jun 2020 21:00:56 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Redo In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <7FCEA2B8-B955-4C8E-A82B-0311F096AC4D@sunnybeeches.com> Thomas, Very nice work indeed. I never would have been able to envision such a radical reconfiguration of the interior space. I?d love to see more detail. I?m trying to figure out how the drawer catches work. It looks like there?s storage under the port side settee, a concept I?ve thought about, but not implemented. It would have taken me a lot longer than three months to do what you have done. Congratulations. You now have a fully unique Rhodes 22 tailored to your specific needs. I hope you?ll have the pleasure of sailing her for many years. Peter Nyberg Coventry, CT s/v Silverheels (1988/2016) > On Jun 16, 2020, at 6:58 PM, THOMAS POLISE via Rhodes22-list wrote: > > A while ago someone asked why anyone would want to spend time working on a boat. To me it was to make it better, make it unique and make it fit my personal needs. I spent the last three months ripping the entire cabin out and rebuilding and rewiring her from the hull up to be more of a daysailer than cruiser and am very happy with results. Was it worth it? I asked myself that Several times when knee deep in it but after finished (for now) I?d have to say yes. Thanks to Peter Nyberg for inspiring me with all his videos. > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: IMG_0003.JPEG > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 92026 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: > -------------- next part -------------- > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: IMG_4030.JPG > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 97170 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: > -------------- next part -------------- > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: IMG_0004.JPEG > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 96202 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: From gstewart8 at cogeco.ca Tue Jun 16 21:05:32 2020 From: gstewart8 at cogeco.ca (Graham Stewart) Date: Tue, 16 Jun 2020 21:05:32 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Redo In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <00ff01d64443$6a519f40$3ef4ddc0$@ca> Super customization! Graham Stewart gstewart8 at cogeco.ca -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of THOMAS POLISE via Rhodes22-list Sent: Tuesday, June 16, 2020 6:58 PM To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Redo A while ago someone asked why anyone would want to spend time working on a boat. To me it was to make it better, make it unique and make it fit my personal needs. I spent the last three months ripping the entire cabin out and rebuilding and rewiring her from the hull up to be more of a daysailer than cruiser and am very happy with results. Was it worth it? I asked myself that Several times when knee deep in it but after finished (for now) I?d have to say yes. Thanks to Peter Nyberg for inspiring me with all his videos. -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0003.JPEG Type: image/jpeg Size: 92026 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_4030.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 97170 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0004.JPEG Type: image/jpeg Size: 96202 bytes Desc: not available URL: From chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com Tue Jun 16 22:41:54 2020 From: chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com (Chris Geankoplis) Date: Tue, 16 Jun 2020 21:41:54 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anyone have an extra outhaul car?bravo In-Reply-To: References: <1592216334025-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1592224697176-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: Bravo Stan. Great site. Chris Geankoplis Enosis On Tue, 16 Jun 2020 at 03:52, stan wrote: > per: www.rhodes22parts.com > "Parts" page > > Courtesy Parts Inquiry good until Oct 8th 2020 > number GB28 OUTHAUL CAR > number GB29 TRAVELER INVENTION > > /visit Newsy Stuff page// > / > Please Note: Parts orders Division: > 825 Soundside Road > Edenton, NC 27932 > stan > > > On 6/15/20 8:38 AM, JeffSmith wrote:Hi Stan, > > How much for each? > Jeff Smith > > 2009 R22 #101 RADIANT > > Atlantic Highlands Municpal Harbor > > Atlantic Highlands, NJ > > > > -- > > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > > > > From tvpolise at aol.com Tue Jun 16 22:59:20 2020 From: tvpolise at aol.com (THOMAS POLISE) Date: Tue, 16 Jun 2020 22:59:20 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Redo In-Reply-To: <7FCEA2B8-B955-4C8E-A82B-0311F096AC4D@sunnybeeches.com> References: <7FCEA2B8-B955-4C8E-A82B-0311F096AC4D@sunnybeeches.com> Message-ID: <06FB2A1C-D65F-479B-B7C4-FFA5F671BAE6@aol.com> Thanks, I?ll post some additional detail photos. > On Jun 16, 2020, at 9:01 PM, Peter Nyberg wrote: > > ?Thomas, > > Very nice work indeed. I never would have been able to envision such a radical reconfiguration of the interior space. I?d love to see more detail. I?m trying to figure out how the drawer catches work. It looks like there?s storage under the port side settee, a concept I?ve thought about, but not implemented. It would have taken me a lot longer than three months to do what you have done. > > Congratulations. You now have a fully unique Rhodes 22 tailored to your specific needs. I hope you?ll have the pleasure of sailing her for many years. > > Peter Nyberg > Coventry, CT > s/v Silverheels (1988/2016) > >> On Jun 16, 2020, at 6:58 PM, THOMAS POLISE via Rhodes22-list wrote: >> >> A while ago someone asked why anyone would want to spend time working on a boat. To me it was to make it better, make it unique and make it fit my personal needs. I spent the last three months ripping the entire cabin out and rebuilding and rewiring her from the hull up to be more of a daysailer than cruiser and am very happy with results. Was it worth it? I asked myself that Several times when knee deep in it but after finished (for now) I?d have to say yes. Thanks to Peter Nyberg for inspiring me with all his videos. >> >> -------------- next part -------------- >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >> Name: IMG_0003.JPEG >> Type: image/jpeg >> Size: 92026 bytes >> Desc: not available >> URL: >> -------------- next part -------------- >> >> >> >> -------------- next part -------------- >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >> Name: IMG_4030.JPG >> Type: image/jpeg >> Size: 97170 bytes >> Desc: not available >> URL: >> -------------- next part -------------- >> >> >> >> -------------- next part -------------- >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >> Name: IMG_0004.JPEG >> Type: image/jpeg >> Size: 96202 bytes >> Desc: not available >> URL: > From john_carlson at mac.com Tue Jun 16 23:06:23 2020 From: john_carlson at mac.com (John Carlson) Date: Tue, 16 Jun 2020 22:06:23 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Redo In-Reply-To: <06FB2A1C-D65F-479B-B7C4-FFA5F671BAE6@aol.com> References: <7FCEA2B8-B955-4C8E-A82B-0311F096AC4D@sunnybeeches.com> <06FB2A1C-D65F-479B-B7C4-FFA5F671BAE6@aol.com> Message-ID: <1A158702-18DA-4CAF-97BA-517378FB6842@mac.com> I would love to see more too ? where did you pit the batteries? I?ve always thought they?d fit great right behind the centerboard lid. > On Jun 16, 2020, at 9:59 PM, THOMAS POLISE via Rhodes22-list wrote: > > Thanks, I?ll post some additional detail photos. > >> On Jun 16, 2020, at 9:01 PM, Peter Nyberg wrote: >> >> ?Thomas, >> >> Very nice work indeed. I never would have been able to envision such a radical reconfiguration of the interior space. I?d love to see more detail. I?m trying to figure out how the drawer catches work. It looks like there?s storage under the port side settee, a concept I?ve thought about, but not implemented. It would have taken me a lot longer than three months to do what you have done. >> >> Congratulations. You now have a fully unique Rhodes 22 tailored to your specific needs. I hope you?ll have the pleasure of sailing her for many years. >> >> Peter Nyberg >> Coventry, CT >> s/v Silverheels (1988/2016) >> >>> On Jun 16, 2020, at 6:58 PM, THOMAS POLISE via Rhodes22-list wrote: >>> >>> A while ago someone asked why anyone would want to spend time working on a boat. To me it was to make it better, make it unique and make it fit my personal needs. I spent the last three months ripping the entire cabin out and rebuilding and rewiring her from the hull up to be more of a daysailer than cruiser and am very happy with results. Was it worth it? I asked myself that Several times when knee deep in it but after finished (for now) I?d have to say yes. Thanks to Peter Nyberg for inspiring me with all his videos. >>> >>> -------------- next part -------------- >>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >>> Name: IMG_0003.JPEG >>> Type: image/jpeg >>> Size: 92026 bytes >>> Desc: not available >>> URL: >>> -------------- next part -------------- >>> >>> >>> >>> -------------- next part -------------- >>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >>> Name: IMG_4030.JPG >>> Type: image/jpeg >>> Size: 97170 bytes >>> Desc: not available >>> URL: >>> -------------- next part -------------- >>> >>> >>> >>> -------------- next part -------------- >>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >>> Name: IMG_0004.JPEG >>> Type: image/jpeg >>> Size: 96202 bytes >>> Desc: not available >>> URL: >> > > From snstaum at gmail.com Wed Jun 17 07:19:39 2020 From: snstaum at gmail.com (Stephen Staum) Date: Wed, 17 Jun 2020 07:19:39 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Redo In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Gorgeous job Thomas!! Do you want to come to Massachusetts and do mine? Stay Well, *Stephen Staum* *s/v Carol Lee 2* *Needham, MA* On Tue, Jun 16, 2020 at 6:58 PM THOMAS POLISE via Rhodes22-list < rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote: > A while ago someone asked why anyone would want to spend time working on a > boat. To me it was to make it better, make it unique and make it fit my > personal needs. I spent the last three months ripping the entire cabin out > and rebuilding and rewiring her from the hull up to be more of a daysailer > than cruiser and am very happy with results. Was it worth it? I asked > myself that Several times when knee deep in it but after finished (for now) > I?d have to say yes. Thanks to Peter Nyberg for inspiring me with all his > videos. > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: IMG_0003.JPEG > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 92026 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200616/72beda81/attachment.jpe > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: IMG_4030.JPG > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 97170 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200616/72beda81/attachment-0001.jpe > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: IMG_0004.JPEG > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 96202 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200616/72beda81/attachment-0002.jpe > > > From rlowe at vt.edu Wed Jun 17 09:39:28 2020 From: rlowe at vt.edu (Lowe, Rob) Date: Wed, 17 Jun 2020 13:39:28 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Redo In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: Thomas, Very impressive. You taken the basic layout and made it look better! Now everyone going to want to hang out in the cabin. Send us more photos and construction tips. I'm interested in the cooler nook. - rob ________________________________ From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of John Carlson via Rhodes22-list Sent: Tuesday, June 16, 2020 7:29 PM To: THOMAS POLISE ; The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Redo Wow, that looks amazing! So airy. Fantastic work. > On Jun 16, 2020, at 5:58 PM, THOMAS POLISE via Rhodes22-list wrote: > > ?A while ago someone asked why anyone would want to spend time working on a boat. To me it was to make it better, make it unique and make it fit my personal needs. I spent the last three months ripping the entire cabin out and rebuilding and rewiring her from the hull up to be more of a daysailer than cruiser and am very happy with results. Was it worth it? I asked myself that Several times when knee deep in it but after finished (for now) I?d have to say yes. Thanks to Peter Nyberg for inspiring me with all his videos. > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: IMG_0003.JPEG > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 92026 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: > -------------- next part -------------- > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: IMG_4030.JPG > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 97170 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: > -------------- next part -------------- > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: IMG_0004.JPEG > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 96202 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: From cknell at vt.edu Wed Jun 17 10:06:29 2020 From: cknell at vt.edu (Chris on LBI) Date: Wed, 17 Jun 2020 07:06:29 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] securing gas tank and storage containers under cockpit benches In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1592402789883-0.post@n5.nabble.com> My Rhodes came with a tank restraint that is a simple adjustable strap secured by two cleats. The shape of the tank makes the adjustable strap very effective. I'll try to attach two photos. Gas_tank_in_restraint.jpg Gas_tank_restraint.jpg Chris on LBI ----- Long Beach Island -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com Wed Jun 17 13:41:57 2020 From: jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com (Jesse Shumaker) Date: Wed, 17 Jun 2020 10:41:57 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] securing gas tank and storage containers under cockpit benches In-Reply-To: <1592402789883-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1592402789883-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <1592415717554-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Thanks to Jeff and Chris for the tips! If I was doing this again, I probably would have taken one of approaches that you mentioned. Now I've got some backup options to pursue if needed. Jesse S/V Zephyr -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From michael.4591 at gmail.com Wed Jun 17 16:31:58 2020 From: michael.4591 at gmail.com (Michael Corley) Date: Wed, 17 Jun 2020 16:31:58 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Redo In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Great job Thomas! Stan could use a craftsman like yourself. MIke Corley Ranger -99 Rhodes On Wed, Jun 17, 2020 at 9:39 AM Lowe, Rob wrote: > Thomas, > Very impressive. You taken the basic layout and made it look better! Now > everyone going to want to hang out in the cabin. Send us more photos and > construction tips. I'm interested in the cooler nook. - rob > > ________________________________ > From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of > John Carlson via Rhodes22-list > Sent: Tuesday, June 16, 2020 7:29 PM > To: THOMAS POLISE ; The Rhodes 22 Email List < > rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Redo > > Wow, that looks amazing! So airy. Fantastic work. > > > On Jun 16, 2020, at 5:58 PM, THOMAS POLISE via Rhodes22-list < > rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote: > > > > ?A while ago someone asked why anyone would want to spend time working > on a boat. To me it was to make it better, make it unique and make it fit > my personal needs. I spent the last three months ripping the entire cabin > out and rebuilding and rewiring her from the hull up to be more of a > daysailer than cruiser and am very happy with results. Was it worth it? > I asked myself that Several times when knee deep in it but after finished > (for now) I?d have to say yes. Thanks to Peter Nyberg for inspiring me > with all his videos. > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > Name: IMG_0003.JPEG > > Type: image/jpeg > > Size: 92026 bytes > > Desc: not available > > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200616/72beda81/attachment.jpe > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > Name: IMG_4030.JPG > > Type: image/jpeg > > Size: 97170 bytes > > Desc: not available > > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200616/72beda81/attachment-0001.jpe > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > Name: IMG_0004.JPEG > > Type: image/jpeg > > Size: 96202 bytes > > Desc: not available > > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200616/72beda81/attachment-0002.jpe > > > From michael.4591 at gmail.com Wed Jun 17 17:01:16 2020 From: michael.4591 at gmail.com (Michael Corley) Date: Wed, 17 Jun 2020 17:01:16 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Rose Message-ID: Stan, I want you to know that I and many others are thinking about you and Rose today. Elton too. I was fortunate enough to have known both Rose and Elton. I always look forward to your stimulating conversations and hope to visit with you again soon. For those new to "Da List", Stan and Rose were married for 70 years. Rose passed away a year ago. Elton was Stan's younger brother. Warmest regards, Mike Corley Hampton Roads, VA From tvpolise at aol.com Wed Jun 17 21:20:35 2020 From: tvpolise at aol.com (THOMAS POLISE) Date: Wed, 17 Jun 2020 21:20:35 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Redo References: <86B21607-4A7D-42D8-AC9E-0125171DC2F3.ref@aol.com> Message-ID: <86B21607-4A7D-42D8-AC9E-0125171DC2F3@aol.com> John, thanks. I put both batteries in the port side sette based on a video I watched about S/V silverheels, thanks Peter. And also reconfigured and required main panel. See photos -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... 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Name: IMG_4141.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 62843 bytes Desc: not available URL: From tvpolise at aol.com Wed Jun 17 21:24:01 2020 From: tvpolise at aol.com (THOMAS POLISE) Date: Wed, 17 Jun 2020 21:24:01 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Redo References: <12AC1470-D7B6-4F08-91A6-7B61F3F03395.ref@aol.com> Message-ID: <12AC1470-D7B6-4F08-91A6-7B61F3F03395@aol.com> Peter, the latches are just wood strips mounted in the sides to catch screws on side of drawers. The top shelf above cooler is sized to house the hatch cover while underway. Thanks for the inspiration! -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_4139.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 104931 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_4140.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 109243 bytes Desc: not available URL: From mweisner at ebsmed.com Thu Jun 18 00:17:28 2020 From: mweisner at ebsmed.com (Michael D. Weisner) Date: Thu, 18 Jun 2020 00:17:28 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Redo In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <004301d64527$61e9ed50$25bdc7f0$@ebsmed.com> Stan has a hard enough time charging for the work involved in recycled boats. Just think what a custom interior might cost! Still, the boat does look great! Congrats Thomas on a very effective use of the time. Mike s/v Windlass ('91) Nissequogue River, NY -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of Michael Corley Sent: Wednesday, June 17, 2020 4:32 PM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Redo Great job Thomas! Stan could use a craftsman like yourself. MIke Corley Ranger -99 Rhodes On Wed, Jun 17, 2020 at 9:39 AM Lowe, Rob wrote: > Thomas, > Very impressive. You taken the basic layout and made it look better! > Now everyone going to want to hang out in the cabin. Send us more > photos and construction tips. I'm interested in the cooler nook. - > rob > > ________________________________ > From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of > John Carlson via Rhodes22-list > Sent: Tuesday, June 16, 2020 7:29 PM > To: THOMAS POLISE ; The Rhodes 22 Email List < > rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Redo > > Wow, that looks amazing! So airy. Fantastic work. > > > On Jun 16, 2020, at 5:58 PM, THOMAS POLISE via Rhodes22-list < > rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote: > > > > ?A while ago someone asked why anyone would want to spend time > > working > on a boat. To me it was to make it better, make it unique and make it > fit my personal needs. I spent the last three months ripping the > entire cabin out and rebuilding and rewiring her from the hull up to > be more of a daysailer than cruiser and am very happy with results. Was it worth it? > I asked myself that Several times when knee deep in it but after > finished (for now) I?d have to say yes. Thanks to Peter Nyberg for > inspiring me with all his videos. > > > > -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was > > scrubbed... > > Name: IMG_0003.JPEG > > Type: image/jpeg > > Size: 92026 bytes > > Desc: not available > > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200616/72bed > a81/attachment.jpe > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was > > scrubbed... > > Name: IMG_4030.JPG > > Type: image/jpeg > > Size: 97170 bytes > > Desc: not available > > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200616/72bed > a81/attachment-0001.jpe > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was > > scrubbed... > > Name: IMG_0004.JPEG > > Type: image/jpeg > > Size: 96202 bytes > > Desc: not available > > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200616/72bed > a81/attachment-0002.jpe > > > From spreadgoodnews at gmail.com Thu Jun 18 07:46:41 2020 From: spreadgoodnews at gmail.com (Goodness) Date: Thu, 18 Jun 2020 07:46:41 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Redo In-Reply-To: <004301d64527$61e9ed50$25bdc7f0$@ebsmed.com> References: <004301d64527$61e9ed50$25bdc7f0$@ebsmed.com> Message-ID: <7B2FABC3-8DA0-43A7-A90E-7069AD901CEB@gmail.com> Wow!! Such an incredible job! Love the open modern look with lots of wood. Real wood is lighter than plywood in most cases and looks much better! Cheaper too if you have a sawmill close by. I have found tulip poplar to be an incredible interior boat wood. Its light, works easily and doesnt change shape in varying humidity. Its light in color and accepts all stains well. Congrats on a great build and covid time well spent! Bob (palatka) > On Jun 18, 2020, at 12:17 AM, Michael D. Weisner wrote: > > ?Stan has a hard enough time charging for the work involved in recycled boats. > > Just think what a custom interior might cost! > > Still, the boat does look great! Congrats Thomas on a very effective use of the time. > > Mike > s/v Windlass ('91) > Nissequogue River, NY > > -----Original Message----- > From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of Michael Corley > Sent: Wednesday, June 17, 2020 4:32 PM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Redo > > Great job Thomas! Stan could use a craftsman like yourself. > > MIke Corley > Ranger -99 Rhodes > >> On Wed, Jun 17, 2020 at 9:39 AM Lowe, Rob wrote: >> >> Thomas, >> Very impressive. You taken the basic layout and made it look better! >> Now everyone going to want to hang out in the cabin. Send us more >> photos and construction tips. I'm interested in the cooler nook. - >> rob >> >> ________________________________ >> From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of >> John Carlson via Rhodes22-list >> Sent: Tuesday, June 16, 2020 7:29 PM >> To: THOMAS POLISE ; The Rhodes 22 Email List < >> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Redo >> >> Wow, that looks amazing! So airy. Fantastic work. >> >>> On Jun 16, 2020, at 5:58 PM, THOMAS POLISE via Rhodes22-list < >> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote: >>> >>> ?A while ago someone asked why anyone would want to spend time >>> working >> on a boat. To me it was to make it better, make it unique and make it >> fit my personal needs. I spent the last three months ripping the >> entire cabin out and rebuilding and rewiring her from the hull up to >> be more of a daysailer than cruiser and am very happy with results. Was it worth it? >> I asked myself that Several times when knee deep in it but after >> finished (for now) I?d have to say yes. Thanks to Peter Nyberg for >> inspiring me with all his videos. >>> >>> -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was >>> scrubbed... >>> Name: IMG_0003.JPEG >>> Type: image/jpeg >>> Size: 92026 bytes >>> Desc: not available >>> URL: < >> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200616/72bed >> a81/attachment.jpe >>> >>> -------------- next part -------------- >>> >>> >>> >>> -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was >>> scrubbed... >>> Name: IMG_4030.JPG >>> Type: image/jpeg >>> Size: 97170 bytes >>> Desc: not available >>> URL: < >> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200616/72bed >> a81/attachment-0001.jpe >>> >>> -------------- next part -------------- >>> >>> >>> >>> -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was >>> scrubbed... >>> Name: IMG_0004.JPEG >>> Type: image/jpeg >>> Size: 96202 bytes >>> Desc: not available >>> URL: < >> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200616/72bed >> a81/attachment-0002.jpe >>> >> > From rlowe at vt.edu Thu Jun 18 09:31:44 2020 From: rlowe at vt.edu (Lowe, Rob) Date: Thu, 18 Jun 2020 13:31:44 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Redo In-Reply-To: <86B21607-4A7D-42D8-AC9E-0125171DC2F3@aol.com> References: <86B21607-4A7D-42D8-AC9E-0125171DC2F3.ref@aol.com>, <86B21607-4A7D-42D8-AC9E-0125171DC2F3@aol.com> Message-ID: Thomas, I love what you did with the wiring. My boat needs the same redo. Do you have any wiring going to the mast? If so, how did you run it? - rob ________________________________ From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of THOMAS POLISE via Rhodes22-list Sent: Wednesday, June 17, 2020 9:20 PM To: john_carlson at mac.com Cc: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Redo John, thanks. I put both batteries in the port side sette based on a video I watched about S/V silverheels, thanks Peter. And also reconfigured and required main panel. See photos -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_4144.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 112128 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_4145.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 91232 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_4143.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 89424 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_4141.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 62843 bytes Desc: not available URL: From tvpolise at aol.com Thu Jun 18 11:37:53 2020 From: tvpolise at aol.com (THOMAS POLISE) Date: Thu, 18 Jun 2020 11:37:53 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Redo In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I ran new coax, mast head light wire and wind transducer wiring up the mast. I removed removed spreaders and through bolt which was interfering with new pull. I put 12? tie wraps on new wire bundle about 18? OC because of noise created by the old wires which banged on inside of mast, which seemed to do the trick. > On Jun 18, 2020, at 9:31 AM, Lowe, Rob wrote: > > ? > Thomas, > I love what you did with the wiring. My boat needs the same redo. Do you have any wiring going to the mast? If so, how did you run it? - rob > > From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of THOMAS POLISE via Rhodes22-list > Sent: Wednesday, June 17, 2020 9:20 PM > To: john_carlson at mac.com > Cc: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org > Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Redo > > John, thanks. I put both batteries in the port side sette based on a video I watched about S/V silverheels, thanks Peter. And also reconfigured and required main panel. See photos > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: IMG_4144.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 112128 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: > -------------- next part -------------- > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: IMG_4145.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 91232 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: > -------------- next part -------------- > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: IMG_4143.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 89424 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: > -------------- next part -------------- > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: IMG_4141.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 62843 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: From rlowe at vt.edu Thu Jun 18 11:42:42 2020 From: rlowe at vt.edu (Lowe, Rob) Date: Thu, 18 Jun 2020 15:42:42 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Redo In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: Thomas, How about from the panel to the mast? Did you go above the cabin liner or down and under and over to the mast. I'm facing the same issue and wondered how you did it. Thanks - rob ________________________________ From: THOMAS POLISE Sent: Thursday, June 18, 2020 11:37 AM To: Lowe, Rob Cc: john_carlson at mac.com ; The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Redo I ran new coax, mast head light wire and wind transducer wiring up the mast. I removed removed spreaders and through bolt which was interfering with new pull. I put 12? tie wraps on new wire bundle about 18? OC because of noise created by the old wires which banged on inside of mast, which seemed to do the trick. On Jun 18, 2020, at 9:31 AM, Lowe, Rob wrote: ? Thomas, I love what you did with the wiring. My boat needs the same redo. Do you have any wiring going to the mast? If so, how did you run it? - rob ________________________________ From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of THOMAS POLISE via Rhodes22-list Sent: Wednesday, June 17, 2020 9:20 PM To: john_carlson at mac.com Cc: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Redo John, thanks. I put both batteries in the port side sette based on a video I watched about S/V silverheels, thanks Peter. And also reconfigured and required main panel. See photos -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_4144.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 112128 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_4145.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 91232 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_4143.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 89424 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_4141.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 62843 bytes Desc: not available URL: From gramille at tds.net Thu Jun 18 11:42:54 2020 From: gramille at tds.net (gramille) Date: Thu, 18 Jun 2020 08:42:54 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Redo In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1592494974765-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Incredible job, So light and airy! Perfect antidote to Covid 19 - Congratulations!! Graham -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From rca02536 at gmail.com Thu Jun 18 17:39:39 2020 From: rca02536 at gmail.com (Bob Allen) Date: Thu, 18 Jun 2020 17:39:39 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] New jib fuller Message-ID: Hi all, Swapping out the original GB jib furler for a cdi FF2. Anyone now if I have to change anything with the forestay or will it be a simple swap out? Thanks Bob Allen s/v air force Falmouth, MA From tvpolise at aol.com Thu Jun 18 20:41:36 2020 From: tvpolise at aol.com (THOMAS POLISE) Date: Thu, 18 Jun 2020 20:41:36 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Redo References: <53937C79-DA39-4A52-B7DF-BCD0A8E35F9B.ref@aol.com> Message-ID: <53937C79-DA39-4A52-B7DF-BCD0A8E35F9B@aol.com> ? ? ? ? I removed all old wiring that ran exposed and fished all new wire between cabin wall and cockpit wall down to bilge. I ran mast wiring in bilge to groove in compression post and into mast base. >> On Jun 18, 2020, at 11:42 AM, Lowe, Rob wrote: > ? > Thomas, > How about from the panel to the mast? Did you go above the cabin liner or down and under and over to the mast. I'm facing the same issue and wondered how you did it. Thanks - rob > > From: THOMAS POLISE > Sent: Thursday, June 18, 2020 11:37 AM > To: Lowe, Rob > Cc: john_carlson at mac.com ; The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Redo > > I ran new coax, mast head light wire and wind transducer wiring up the mast. I removed removed spreaders and through bolt which was interfering with new pull. I put 12? tie wraps on new wire bundle about 18? OC because of noise created by the old wires which banged on inside of mast, which seemed to do the trick. > >> On Jun 18, 2020, at 9:31 AM, Lowe, Rob wrote: >> ? >> Thomas, >> I love what you did with the wiring. My boat needs the same redo. Do you have any wiring going to the mast? If so, how did you run it? - rob >> >> From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of THOMAS POLISE via Rhodes22-list >> Sent: Wednesday, June 17, 2020 9:20 PM >> To: john_carlson at mac.com >> Cc: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org >> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Redo >> >> John, thanks. I put both batteries in the port side sette based on a video I watched about S/V silverheels, thanks Peter. And also reconfigured and required main panel. See photos >> >> -------------- next part -------------- >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >> Name: IMG_4144.jpg >> Type: image/jpeg >> Size: 112128 bytes >> Desc: not available >> URL: >> -------------- next part -------------- >> >> >> >> -------------- next part -------------- >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >> Name: IMG_4145.jpg >> Type: image/jpeg >> Size: 91232 bytes >> Desc: not available >> URL: >> -------------- next part -------------- >> >> >> >> -------------- next part -------------- >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >> Name: IMG_4143.jpg >> Type: image/jpeg >> Size: 89424 bytes >> Desc: not available >> URL: >> -------------- next part -------------- >> >> >> >> -------------- next part -------------- >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >> Name: IMG_4141.jpg >> Type: image/jpeg >> Size: 62843 bytes >> Desc: not available >> URL: From tvpolise at aol.com Thu Jun 18 15:55:28 2020 From: tvpolise at aol.com (THOMAS POLISE) Date: Thu, 18 Jun 2020 15:55:28 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Redo In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <9FDD8F30-6399-4F77-950F-D5E5C76A79AD@aol.com> I think I?m done till next year. > On Jun 17, 2020, at 7:19 AM, Stephen Staum wrote: > > ? > Gorgeous job Thomas!! Do you want to come to Massachusetts and do mine? > > Stay Well, > Stephen Staum > s/v Carol Lee 2 > Needham, MA > > >> On Tue, Jun 16, 2020 at 6:58 PM THOMAS POLISE via Rhodes22-list wrote: >> A while ago someone asked why anyone would want to spend time working on a boat. To me it was to make it better, make it unique and make it fit my personal needs. I spent the last three months ripping the entire cabin out and rebuilding and rewiring her from the hull up to be more of a daysailer than cruiser and am very happy with results. Was it worth it? I asked myself that Several times when knee deep in it but after finished (for now) I?d have to say yes. Thanks to Peter Nyberg for inspiring me with all his videos. >> >> -------------- next part -------------- >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >> Name: IMG_0003.JPEG >> Type: image/jpeg >> Size: 92026 bytes >> Desc: not available >> URL: >> -------------- next part -------------- >> >> >> >> -------------- next part -------------- >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >> Name: IMG_4030.JPG >> Type: image/jpeg >> Size: 97170 bytes >> Desc: not available >> URL: >> -------------- next part -------------- >> >> >> >> -------------- next part -------------- >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >> Name: IMG_0004.JPEG >> Type: image/jpeg >> Size: 96202 bytes >> Desc: not available >> URL: From tvpolise at aol.com Fri Jun 19 08:30:55 2020 From: tvpolise at aol.com (Thomas Polise) Date: Fri, 19 Jun 2020 08:30:55 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Redo References: <3B1AEF2B-8DFD-409A-8266-DE6A3E45E005.ref@aol.com> Message-ID: <3B1AEF2B-8DFD-409A-8266-DE6A3E45E005@aol.com> For those who were interested in seeing more on the S/V Driftwood restoration attached is a link to a video my wife made on the final cabin and launch day. https://vimeo.com/430586287/3157afc1eb From retro53 at msn.com Fri Jun 19 10:14:54 2020 From: retro53 at msn.com (John Keyser) Date: Fri, 19 Jun 2020 14:14:54 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Redo In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: Beautiful job, Tom! Very modern. Especially like the chart laminated (?) on the counter top. John Keyser "Deci-Belle" ________________________________ From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of THOMAS POLISE via Rhodes22-list Sent: Tuesday, June 16, 2020 6:58 PM To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Redo A while ago someone asked why anyone would want to spend time working on a boat. To me it was to make it better, make it unique and make it fit my personal needs. I spent the last three months ripping the entire cabin out and rebuilding and rewiring her from the hull up to be more of a daysailer than cruiser and am very happy with results. Was it worth it? I asked myself that Several times when knee deep in it but after finished (for now) I?d have to say yes. Thanks to Peter Nyberg for inspiring me with all his videos. -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0003.JPEG Type: image/jpeg Size: 92026 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_4030.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 97170 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0004.JPEG Type: image/jpeg Size: 96202 bytes Desc: not available URL: From tvpolise at aol.com Fri Jun 19 10:41:05 2020 From: tvpolise at aol.com (Thomas Polise) Date: Fri, 19 Jun 2020 10:41:05 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Redo In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <628CEAE5-739C-4FE5-A162-1397B624766B@aol.com> The Chart was applied to a sanded piece of marine plywood with clear glossy Modge Podge on both sides, dried overnight. Then a 2 part epoxy liquid glass was poured on top, air bubbles cleared by sweeping an acetylene torch flame across it. > On Jun 19, 2020, at 10:14 AM, John Keyser wrote: > > ? > > Beautiful job, Tom! Very modern. Especially like the chart laminated (?) on the counter top. > > John Keyser > "Deci-Belle" > From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of THOMAS POLISE via Rhodes22-list > Sent: Tuesday, June 16, 2020 6:58 PM > To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org > Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Redo > > A while ago someone asked why anyone would want to spend time working on a boat. To me it was to make it better, make it unique and make it fit my personal needs. I spent the last three months ripping the entire cabin out and rebuilding and rewiring her from the hull up to be more of a daysailer than cruiser and am very happy with results. Was it worth it? I asked myself that Several times when knee deep in it but after finished (for now) I?d have to say yes. Thanks to Peter Nyberg for inspiring me with all his videos. > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: IMG_0003.JPEG > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 92026 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: > -------------- next part -------------- > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: IMG_4030.JPG > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 97170 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: > -------------- next part -------------- > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: IMG_0004.JPEG > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 96202 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: From joedempsey at hughes.net Fri Jun 19 14:42:49 2020 From: joedempsey at hughes.net (Joe Dempsey) Date: Fri, 19 Jun 2020 11:42:49 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Mast Crutch In-Reply-To: <1523867878389-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1523867878389-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <1592592169783-0.post@n5.nabble.com> I am posting to this chain with a photo showing vertical clearance of mast bundle on the GBI cradle. Clearance can vary depending on where you secure the forward (bottom) end of the mast: deck or pulpit. I secure the forward end to the pulpit which gives a clearance of 11"8". If you secure to the bow on deck it will raise the aft end accordingly. Hope this helps! ----- Joe Dempsey s/v Respite Rhodes 22 1989/2005 Deltaville,VA -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From joedempsey at hughes.net Fri Jun 19 15:55:25 2020 From: joedempsey at hughes.net (Joe Dempsey) Date: Fri, 19 Jun 2020 12:55:25 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Mast clearance In-Reply-To: <648e9c6c73714d0c8d9f5a9f4fd7212f@BELL.cc.w2k.vt.edu> References: <648e9c6c73714d0c8d9f5a9f4fd7212f@BELL.cc.w2k.vt.edu> Message-ID: <1592596525929-0.post@n5.nabble.com> This is another "post mortem" reply to an old post, but I believe will be helpful to The List. Overall height above water line, "Clearance", of s/v Respite is 32'8". Calculations as follows: Top to Waterline VHF Antenna: 3' 0" IMF Mast to Step: 26' 2" Step to Deck: 1' 1" Deck to Waterline: _2' 5"_ Total Clearance: 32' 8" ----- Joe Dempsey s/v Respite Rhodes 22 1989/2005 Deltaville,VA -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com Sat Jun 20 09:47:14 2020 From: jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com (Jesse Shumaker) Date: Sat, 20 Jun 2020 08:47:14 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] steaming light Message-ID: I replaced my masthead light last winter and changed it from a steaming light to an all around anchor light in the process. My new masthead light has separate hot wires so the front and back can be powered independently but I don't have the wiring and switches in place to do that. I considered doing the work to make that possible. I unscrewed the switch panel in the cockpit, but it is hard to get a good look back there since all the wires are fairly tight and I could not pull out the switch panel far. Would it be necessary to remove the galley to get back there and access all the wires? Since I now have an all around anchor light but no steaming light, I had been thinking about a workaround until I want to do some wiring work and add another switch for the rear portion of my masthead light. At Home Depot, I saw a battery powered LED strip by Milwaukee tools that is water, dust, and impact resistant. On the low setting (100 lumens), it will last 16 hours on 2 AA batteries. One of these lights cost $20. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-300-Lumens-LED-Magnetic-Flood-Light-2108/306261360 I picked up 3 of these lights: one to face forward, one to face starboard, and one to face port. I used a velcro strip to run through the hooks on the back of the lights and over the boom. It's easy to put them on around the mast temporarily and then wrap them up in a bundle for storage in the cabin when not in use. Preferable options would be to wire up separate switches to the front and back lights on my masthead light, or wire up a separate steaming light 2/3 of the way up the mast as you typically see. If you don't want to mess with the wiring, the setup described in this post is a simple battery powered work around for a steaming light to go along with the running lights. I know some people will use the masthead light just facing forward as a steaming light and then use a lantern for an anchor light. My reasoning was that I would prefer to have the anchor light running off the boat battery since that is on for awhile (though it is LED and low draw), but the steaming lights would not be used for long periods so it was a better fit for smaller batteries. While I was at this, I put some reflective tape on the mast just above the boom. It really lights up when a flashlight is shown on it and can make it more distinctive and easy to spot in anchorage. I attached a few photos for reference. I'm curious if others have both a steaming and all around anchor light wired up on their boats. -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: ReflectiveTapeOnMastRS.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 52109 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Steaming02RS.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 111878 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Steaming03RS.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 148796 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Steaming04RS.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 113305 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Steaming01lightsTurnedOffRS.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 47052 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Steaming05RS.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 126885 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Steaming06RS.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 45872 bytes Desc: not available URL: From joedempsey at hughes.net Sat Jun 20 13:10:16 2020 From: joedempsey at hughes.net (Joe Dempsey) Date: Sat, 20 Jun 2020 10:10:16 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] New Discussion on Hull Numbers Message-ID: <1592673016665-0.post@n5.nabble.com> This is to Chris Cowie in Reply to his post in a 2009 discussion with several List members on the subject. Chris, I've been researching past discussions on hull numbers and came across your post from 2009. Like your number, my hull number, GBX22102A989 has the "A" out of sequence, would indicate my Rhodes is the 102nd built and was completed January 9, 1989, 20 years before yours! Otherwise mine could have been the 1029th hull built and completed in January 1989, but under that supposition, yours would have been the 1019th hull built and completed in January 2009. So I think there's still some work to be done interpreting the coding. I recall that the R22 wasn't born until 1966. I think i read (alot of recollection here!) that HNs weren't required until 1972 or so, some 12-13 years after GBI began production or 6 years after R22 began production. According to Stan's "A Bit of History" GBX=General Boat; 22=LOA; #### is sequential production* number of the hull; Letter=Month; and ##=Year Built. Like your HN, mine only has three #s instead of 4 for sequence, followed by "A" and then three ### where there should only be 2. Could the sequential number refer to the total number for that year? Which would make yours the 101st hull of 2009 and mine the 102nd hull of 1989? Somewhere, the HN coding may have added the "day of the month" ie the three digits following the month code. Given that Stan said that they built about 50 per year up to that time but "no where near that in NC" and "there about 2000 R22s out there" (in 1999 that would have been an average of 60 per year since 1966). So we still don't know the total number of R22s built. I queried Stan, but he's quite harried with deliveries right now and is not concerned with historical info like we, as owners, are. Understandable. So I thought I would reignite the Hull Number conversation! ----- Joe Dempsey s/v Respite Rhodes 22 1989/2005 Deltaville,VA -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From joedempsey at hughes.net Sat Jun 20 13:16:50 2020 From: joedempsey at hughes.net (Joe Dempsey) Date: Sat, 20 Jun 2020 10:16:50 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] steaming light In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1592673410354-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Jesse, A Bell+Howell LED Tac Lite works great! it is 360 degrees meets the 2 NM requirement, 4 AA batteries (plenty to keep the LEDs lite for several nights and has a hook on the bottom so you can hang it on a halyard and run it up the mast (tie off to deck cleat so it doesn't clang the mast). 20 bucks and you're done! ----- Joe Dempsey s/v Respite Rhodes 22 1989/2005 Deltaville,VA -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From joedempsey at hughes.net Sat Jun 20 13:26:00 2020 From: joedempsey at hughes.net (Joe Dempsey) Date: Sat, 20 Jun 2020 10:26:00 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Mast clearance (New View) In-Reply-To: <1592596525929-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <648e9c6c73714d0c8d9f5a9f4fd7212f@BELL.cc.w2k.vt.edu> <1592596525929-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <1592673960042-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Trying a larger format of the boat plan. Hope it's better so you can read it! ----- Joe Dempsey s/v Respite Rhodes 22 1989/2005 Deltaville,VA -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From peter at sunnybeeches.com Sat Jun 20 21:24:05 2020 From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg) Date: Sat, 20 Jun 2020 21:24:05 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] steaming light In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <02733A60-484E-4686-BA1B-083CD1A4A114@sunnybeeches.com> Jesse, Regarding your question about accessing the wires behind the switch panel? It?s been several years since I first disassembled that area. I can clearly recall wondering how to get access to the wiring behind the panel. Like you, I removed the screws holding the panel in place, and attempted to pull it out to get to the wires. There didn?t seem to be enough slack in the wires. I disassembled some other parts of the galley, but nothing was getting me closer to those hidden wires. I finally came to the conclusion that the only way the panel could have been installed was that wiring connections were made with the panel removed, and then the panel was pushed into place and attached. Therefore, it must be that the panel could be removed by reversing the process. So I just pulled harder on the panel, and it came out far enough that I could detach the wires from the back side. That?s how I remember it, anyway. But that would only get you so far. If you want to run a new wire into that area behind the panel, from my experience I?d say that there?s no option but to disassemble the entire galley. Best of Luck, Peter Nyberg Coventry, CT s/v Silverheels (1988/2016) > On Jun 20, 2020, at 9:47 AM, Jesse Shumaker wrote: > > I replaced my masthead light last winter and changed it from a steaming > light to an all around anchor light in the process. My new masthead light > has separate hot wires so the front and back can be powered independently > but I don't have the wiring and switches in place to do that. I considered > doing the work to make that possible. I unscrewed the switch panel in the > cockpit, but it is hard to get a good look back there since all the wires > are fairly tight and I could not pull out the switch panel far. Would it > be necessary to remove the galley to get back there and access all the > wires? > > Since I now have an all around anchor light but no steaming light, I had > been thinking about a workaround until I want to do some wiring work and > add another switch for the rear portion of my masthead light. > > At Home Depot, I saw a battery powered LED strip by Milwaukee tools that is > water, dust, and impact resistant. On the low setting (100 lumens), it > will last 16 hours on 2 AA batteries. One of these lights cost $20. > https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-300-Lumens-LED-Magnetic-Flood-Light-2108/306261360 > > > I picked up 3 of these lights: one to face forward, one to face starboard, > and one to face port. I used a velcro strip to run through the hooks on > the back of the lights and over the boom. It's easy to put them on around > the mast temporarily and then wrap them up in a bundle for storage in the > cabin when not in use. > > Preferable options would be to wire up separate switches to the front and > back lights on my masthead light, or wire up a separate steaming light 2/3 > of the way up the mast as you typically see. If you don't want to mess > with the wiring, the setup described in this post is a simple battery > powered work around for a steaming light to go along with the running > lights. > > I know some people will use the masthead light just facing forward as a > steaming light and then use a lantern for an anchor light. My reasoning > was that I would prefer to have the anchor light running off the boat > battery since that is on for awhile (though it is LED and low draw), but > the steaming lights would not be used for long periods so it was a better > fit for smaller batteries. > > While I was at this, I put some reflective tape on the mast just above the > boom. It really lights up when a flashlight is shown on it and can make it > more distinctive and easy to spot in anchorage. > > I attached a few photos for reference. > > I'm curious if others have both a steaming and all around anchor light > wired up on their boats. > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: ReflectiveTapeOnMastRS.JPG > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 52109 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: Steaming02RS.JPG > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 111878 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: Steaming03RS.JPG > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 148796 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: Steaming04RS.JPG > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 113305 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: Steaming01lightsTurnedOffRS.JPG > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 47052 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: Steaming05RS.JPG > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 126885 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: Steaming06RS.JPG > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 45872 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: From tvpolise at aol.com Sun Jun 21 09:56:46 2020 From: tvpolise at aol.com (Thomas Polise) Date: Sun, 21 Jun 2020 09:56:46 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Panel wiring References: Message-ID: Regarding panel wiring. I wound up re-routing all wires between the cabin wall and cockpit wall and terminating on a terminal block so that I could have ready access to panel. I left some pull wires down to bilge so I could run future wiring. See attached photos. -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_4141.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 23956 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_4143.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 31606 bytes Desc: not available URL: From tvpolise at aol.com Sun Jun 21 09:58:04 2020 From: tvpolise at aol.com (Thomas Polise) Date: Sun, 21 Jun 2020 09:58:04 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Panel wiring In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hopefully photo comes through -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 31606 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- > On Jun 21, 2020, at 9:56 AM, Thomas Polise via Rhodes22-list wrote: > > ? > Regarding panel wiring. I wound up re-routing all wires between the cabin wall and cockpit wall and terminating on a terminal block so that I could have ready access to panel. I left some pull wires down to bilge so I could run future wiring. See attached photos. > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: IMG_4141.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 23956 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: > -------------- next part -------------- > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: IMG_4143.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 31606 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: From alexis.seigneurin at gmail.com Sun Jun 21 10:10:15 2020 From: alexis.seigneurin at gmail.com (Alexis Seigneurin) Date: Sun, 21 Jun 2020 10:10:15 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Launch... and the story of an epic failure In-Reply-To: References: <1589103595143-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <000001d627b0$f86da170$e948e450$@ebsmed.com> Message-ID: To follow up on my failed launch last month, I got my boat repaired at the marina and ended up paying $1080. Not too bad. Picture of the repair attached. I launched the boat yesterday and it all went smoothly. I opened the cover of the bilge fully to empty the remaining water and check for leaks, and it?s all good now. I was a bit worried that the centerboard trunk cap had been damaged, but it?s in perfect shape. The sailing season starts now! Alexis On Tue, May 12, 2020 at 11:01 AM Lowe, Rob wrote: > Alexis, > Cool, those tires look adequate. The reason I ask is I had never paid any > attention to my trailer tires, I just assumed they were adequate. One day > I'm in the midst of taking my boat to the lake and I'm in a parking lot. I > happened to look in my side mirror at the boat and noticed the trailer tire > was split right now the middle of the tread and what looked like an inner > tube was visible! Upon further inspection I discovered the tires were > standard automotive tires and not adequate for a trailer. I didn't have a > spare tire with me. I ended up leaving the boat where it was and came back > with a jack and stands. I took both tires off and took them to be replace > with trailer tires. So now I pay attention to trailer tires. - rob > > > ________________________________ > From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of > Alexis Seigneurin > Sent: Tuesday, May 12, 2020 10:40 AM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Launch... and the story of an epic failure > > Thanks, Rob. > > The previous owner had done a good job keeping the boat in good shape. > It?s all on my shoulders now... > > The tires I used are Carlisle Sport Trail ST 225/75D15 LRD. I believe this > is what was originally used on the trailer, and the load range (D) should > be adequate. > > And you?re right, I don?t have the mast crutch and raising system on the > boat. I use wood supports to hold the mast in place when trailering, and I > keep the other accessories inside the cabin. I feel like the mast is more > solidly held in place this way. > > Good to know about welding brackets on the trailer. I don?t think I am > going to have to do that this time but I will keep that in mind for the > future. > Alexis > > ________________________________ > From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of > Lowe, Rob > Sent: Tuesday, May 12, 2020 8:51:08 AM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Launch... and the story of an epic failure > > Alexis, > Nice looking boat. Hope you get her repaired and splashed soon. > > I had similar problems with my bunks and ended up replacing all of them. > I also had to have a couple of the metal support pieces re welded. If you > need to go that route, make sure they are welded vertically. They welded > mine on perpendicular to the frame which made them too close together. > This was for the keel guide boards and I could not get the boat loaded as > the keel would not slide it. I ended up replacing the 2X guide boards with > 1X which gave me sufficient room. > > What type of tires did you put on the trailer? I hope trailer tires, > automobile tires do not have the weight capacity you will need. Good time > to take a look. > > I notice you do not have the mast crutch. How about the mast raising > system? A word from experience, when you raise the mast you'll want to get > the aft end of it much higher up in the air before you raise. Good luck! - > rob > > ________________________________ > From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of > Alexis Seigneurin > Sent: Monday, May 11, 2020 4:20 PM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Launch... and the story of an epic failure > > My trailer is a single-axle Triad trailer. All the galvanized steel is in > good shape. It?s just the wood that was probably too old, and the screws > came off. > > I am attaching a picture of the bracket that ended up sticking out. It?s > the little one, on the inside bunk, not the outside one. > > And yes, you can see I had a flat tire. I am not being very lucky this > year... I did replace both tires as they were from 2007, which - I also > learned the hard way - is past age. > > Regarding the rollers, I think my trailer only has one at the aft end. I > think it supports the centerboard but nothing else. > > Alexis > > [Image.jpeg] > > [Image.jpeg] > > ________________________________ > From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of > Michael D. Weisner > Sent: Monday, May 11, 2020 12:26:47 PM > To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Launch... and the story of an epic failure > > I actually carry a roll of Flex Tape (as seen on TV holding a boat > together) > purchased from Home Depot: > > https://www.homedepot.com/p/FLEX-SEAL-FAMILY-OF-PRODUCTS-Flex-Tape-Black-4-i > n-x-5-ft-Strong-Rubberized-Waterproof-Tape-TFSBLKR0405/302634866 > > > The commercial also shows the tape's waterproof property by patching a hole > in an aquarium FROM THE INSIDE, not really useful for a hole in a boat, I > would think. > > I found an investigative report that seems to validate the commercial claim > at: > > https://www.insideedition.com/investigative/25621-are-the-commercials-hyped- > up-investigation-tests-whether-flex-tape-can-hold-a-boat-together > > > Hopefully, I will never need to use it. According to my "friend", Mr. > Murphy, in the unlikely event that I will need the tape, the adhesive will > probably be dried out! > > Mike > s/v Wind Lass ('91) > Nissequogue River, NY > I'd rather be sailing :~) > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of > Lowe, > Rob > Sent: Monday, May 11, 2020 12:07 PM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Launch... and the story of an epic failure > > Not that I'm planning on holing my boat, but I wonder if any boaters carry > tape that could be applied to a hole like this underwater? - rob > > > https://www.homedepot.com/p/Intertape-Polymer-Group-3-in-x-5-yds-VersaTape-U > nderwater-Tape-99688/206300616 > > > > ________________________________ > From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of > Alexis > Seigneurin > Sent: Sunday, May 10, 2020 12:37 PM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Launch... and the story of an epic failure > > I am quite impressed most of you are recommending for me to do the repair > myself! I have watched countless hours of Boatworks Today and Sail Life > videos, so I kind of know the steps for this repair, but I wasn't feeling > like it was a good first project for a fiberglass repair. It's structural > and under the water line, so definitely needs to be done right. I will > think > about it and we'll see what I decide! > > Thanks all, > Alexis > > ________________________________ > From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of Hank > > Sent: Sunday, May 10, 2020 12:29:08 PM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Launch... and the story of an epic failure > > I also didn't have the benefit of all of the youtube videos now available > to > show folks how to do things when I did my first fiberglass repair. Much > easier to be a DIYer these days. > > On Sun, May 10, 2020 at 10:00 AM Mark Whipple > wrote: > > > I agree that fiberglass work is not difficult, but I would also > > suggest that repairing a hole below the waterline may not be the best > > first-time project. It would be great, though, if you could find > > someone to give you a hand like Hank was able to that would be idea. > > FWIW I would recommend Allan H. Vaites Fiberglass Repair Manual < > > https://smile.amazon.com/dp/0071569146?tag=amz-mkt-chr-us-20&ascsubtag > > =1ba00-01000-org00-mac00-other-smile-us000-pcomp-feature-scomp-wm-5&re > > f=aa_scomp > > > > > . > > > > Mark Whipple > > > > > > > > On Sun, May 10, 2020 at 9:14 AM Hank wrote: > > > > > This is definitely true. I had some fiberglass issues on another > > > boat > > that > > > I used to own and was gonna have the yard do it.Instead one of the > > > other guys in the marina showed me that it wasn't that hard to do > > > and I did it myself. Very satisfying and glad I was a able to learn > > > these skills. If you are at all handy you can probly do this yourself > as well. > > > > > > On Sun, May 10, 2020, 05:39 JeffSmith > wrote: > > > > > > > Fiberglass work is fairly easy, if you have the time and access to > > > > the boat. > > > > Check out some YouTube videos and figure out whether you have the > > skills > > > > and > > > > patience. You probably do. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ----- > > > > Jeff Smith > > > > 2009 R22 #101 RADIANT > > > > Atlantic Highlands Municpal Harbor Atlantic Highlands, NJ > > > > > > > > -- > > > > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > > > > > > > > > > > > > -- > > 2000 R22 *Tiny Dancer* > > 1986 Nimble 30 (For Sale) > > 1982 Com-Pac 15 (For Sale) > > Boston, MA > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: Image.jpeg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 406421 bytes > Desc: Image.jpeg > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200511/4536cf86/attachment.jpeg > > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: Image.jpeg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 1287842 bytes > Desc: Image.jpeg > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200511/4536cf86/attachment-0001.jpeg > > > -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_2645.jpg Type: image/jpg Size: 2078459 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_2594.jpg Type: image/jpg Size: 2270048 bytes Desc: not available URL: From jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com Sun Jun 21 13:01:46 2020 From: jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com (JeffSmith) Date: Sun, 21 Jun 2020 10:01:46 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Launch... and the story of an epic failure In-Reply-To: <1589207396593-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1589207396593-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <1592758906995-0.post@n5.nabble.com> I had been planning to store the boat in the yard and trailer launch it for sailing, but the difficult launch even with the 10' extension led me to put it on a mooring instead. Since my wife and I hope to travel to new cruising grounds and trailer launch when we get there, I am very interested in the idea of adding keel support rollers on a Triad trailer. Additional pix will be appreciated. ----- Jeff Smith 2009 R22 #101 RADIANT Atlantic Highlands Municpal Harbor Atlantic Highlands, NJ -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com Sun Jun 21 20:21:59 2020 From: jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com (Jesse Shumaker) Date: Sun, 21 Jun 2020 19:21:59 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] steaming light In-Reply-To: <02733A60-484E-4686-BA1B-083CD1A4A114@sunnybeeches.com> References: <02733A60-484E-4686-BA1B-083CD1A4A114@sunnybeeches.com> Message-ID: Peter, thanks for the background regarding the wiring. Your videos as well as Thomas' recent wiring photos are helpful for reference on this topic. On Sat, Jun 20, 2020 at 8:25 PM Peter Nyberg wrote: > Jesse, > > Regarding your question about accessing the wires behind the switch panel? > > It?s been several years since I first disassembled that area. I can > clearly recall wondering how to get access to the wiring behind the panel. > Like you, I removed the screws holding the panel in place, and attempted to > pull it out to get to the wires. There didn?t seem to be enough slack in > the wires. I disassembled some other parts of the galley, but nothing was > getting me closer to those hidden wires. I finally came to the conclusion > that the only way the panel could have been installed was that wiring > connections were made with the panel removed, and then the panel was pushed > into place and attached. Therefore, it must be that the panel could be > removed by reversing the process. So I just pulled harder on the panel, and > it came out far enough that I could detach the wires from the back side. > > That?s how I remember it, anyway. > > But that would only get you so far. If you want to run a new wire into > that area behind the panel, from my experience I?d say that there?s no > option but to disassemble the entire galley. > > Best of Luck, > > Peter Nyberg > Coventry, CT > s/v Silverheels (1988/2016) > > > On Jun 20, 2020, at 9:47 AM, Jesse Shumaker < > jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com> wrote: > > > > I replaced my masthead light last winter and changed it from a steaming > > light to an all around anchor light in the process. My new masthead > light > > has separate hot wires so the front and back can be powered independently > > but I don't have the wiring and switches in place to do that. I > considered > > doing the work to make that possible. I unscrewed the switch panel in > the > > cockpit, but it is hard to get a good look back there since all the wires > > are fairly tight and I could not pull out the switch panel far. Would it > > be necessary to remove the galley to get back there and access all the > > wires? > > > > Since I now have an all around anchor light but no steaming light, I had > > been thinking about a workaround until I want to do some wiring work and > > add another switch for the rear portion of my masthead light. > > > > At Home Depot, I saw a battery powered LED strip by Milwaukee tools that > is > > water, dust, and impact resistant. On the low setting (100 lumens), it > > will last 16 hours on 2 AA batteries. One of these lights cost $20. > > > https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-300-Lumens-LED-Magnetic-Flood-Light-2108/306261360 > > > > > > I picked up 3 of these lights: one to face forward, one to face > starboard, > > and one to face port. I used a velcro strip to run through the hooks on > > the back of the lights and over the boom. It's easy to put them on > around > > the mast temporarily and then wrap them up in a bundle for storage in the > > cabin when not in use. > > > > Preferable options would be to wire up separate switches to the front and > > back lights on my masthead light, or wire up a separate steaming light > 2/3 > > of the way up the mast as you typically see. If you don't want to mess > > with the wiring, the setup described in this post is a simple battery > > powered work around for a steaming light to go along with the running > > lights. > > > > I know some people will use the masthead light just facing forward as a > > steaming light and then use a lantern for an anchor light. My reasoning > > was that I would prefer to have the anchor light running off the boat > > battery since that is on for awhile (though it is LED and low draw), but > > the steaming lights would not be used for long periods so it was a better > > fit for smaller batteries. > > > > While I was at this, I put some reflective tape on the mast just above > the > > boom. It really lights up when a flashlight is shown on it and can make > it > > more distinctive and easy to spot in anchorage. > > > > I attached a few photos for reference. > > > > I'm curious if others have both a steaming and all around anchor light > > wired up on their boats. > > -------------- next part -------------- > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > Name: ReflectiveTapeOnMastRS.JPG > > Type: image/jpeg > > Size: 52109 bytes > > Desc: not available > > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200620/8774ea74/attachment.jpe > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > Name: Steaming02RS.JPG > > Type: image/jpeg > > Size: 111878 bytes > > Desc: not available > > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200620/8774ea74/attachment-0001.jpe > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > Name: Steaming03RS.JPG > > Type: image/jpeg > > Size: 148796 bytes > > Desc: not available > > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200620/8774ea74/attachment-0002.jpe > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > Name: Steaming04RS.JPG > > Type: image/jpeg > > Size: 113305 bytes > > Desc: not available > > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200620/8774ea74/attachment-0003.jpe > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > Name: Steaming01lightsTurnedOffRS.JPG > > Type: image/jpeg > > Size: 47052 bytes > > Desc: not available > > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200620/8774ea74/attachment-0004.jpe > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > Name: Steaming05RS.JPG > > Type: image/jpeg > > Size: 126885 bytes > > Desc: not available > > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200620/8774ea74/attachment-0005.jpe > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > Name: Steaming06RS.JPG > > Type: image/jpeg > > Size: 45872 bytes > > Desc: not available > > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200620/8774ea74/attachment-0006.jpe > > > > From jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com Sun Jun 21 20:45:58 2020 From: jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com (Jesse Shumaker) Date: Sun, 21 Jun 2020 19:45:58 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] mosquito netting for cockpit Message-ID: I am getting ready for a road trip to a larger lake with a couple of friends. I will sleep on the settee and they will sleep in the cockpit. Last winter I cut some plywood planks to fit between the benches to make a wide and flat sleeping area. Since bugs could be a problem, I got a big piece of mosquito netting. I anchored out for the first time last night so I could try things out. I draped the mosquito netting over the bimini, and put the entrances where it joins to the cabin and also at the rear of the boat. I used nylon clamps to secure the netting to the bimini straps, around the tiller, and to join with the pop top enclosure, where I left the entrance rolled up. This forms a very large bug free area and it worked out well. Last night was very calm so it may be necessary to take additional steps to secure the netting if it is windy. Before trying this I found some old posts in the archive, but no photos and more ideas than actual experience. However, I'm guessing that some of you may have solved this in similar (and perhaps better) ways. It doesn't provide the protection and privacy of a boom room, but for a dry night this is a cheap and easy solution that pairs nicely with the pop top enclosure. If there is rain, we'll have a big tarp as well to toss over the boom and provide rain cover. Feel free to chime in with your solutions since it's always interesting to see the creativity of the group. Netting: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KKMZRFK/ Clamps: https://www.amazon.com/WORKPRO-16-Piece-Spring-Muslin-Backdrops/dp/B0109K8F3O Jesse Shumaker S/V Zephyr -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: CockpitNetting03.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 97154 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: CockpitNetting01.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 106364 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: CockpitNetting02.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 159068 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: CockpitNetting04.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 131793 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rlowe at vt.edu Mon Jun 22 09:09:38 2020 From: rlowe at vt.edu (Lowe, Rob) Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2020 13:09:38 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Launch... and the story of an epic failure In-Reply-To: References: <1589103595143-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <000001d627b0$f86da170$e948e450$@ebsmed.com> , Message-ID: Alexis, Glad to hear you are repaired and on the water. Let the sailing season begin! So it cost you a thousand and you learned a valuable lesson. Sometimes that's not a bad deal. It is a boat after all. - rob ________________________________ From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of Alexis Seigneurin Sent: Sunday, June 21, 2020 10:10 AM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Launch... and the story of an epic failure To follow up on my failed launch last month, I got my boat repaired at the marina and ended up paying $1080. Not too bad. Picture of the repair attached. I launched the boat yesterday and it all went smoothly. I opened the cover of the bilge fully to empty the remaining water and check for leaks, and it?s all good now. I was a bit worried that the centerboard trunk cap had been damaged, but it?s in perfect shape. The sailing season starts now! Alexis On Tue, May 12, 2020 at 11:01 AM Lowe, Rob wrote: > Alexis, > Cool, those tires look adequate. The reason I ask is I had never paid any > attention to my trailer tires, I just assumed they were adequate. One day > I'm in the midst of taking my boat to the lake and I'm in a parking lot. I > happened to look in my side mirror at the boat and noticed the trailer tire > was split right now the middle of the tread and what looked like an inner > tube was visible! Upon further inspection I discovered the tires were > standard automotive tires and not adequate for a trailer. I didn't have a > spare tire with me. I ended up leaving the boat where it was and came back > with a jack and stands. I took both tires off and took them to be replace > with trailer tires. So now I pay attention to trailer tires. - rob > > > ________________________________ > From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of > Alexis Seigneurin > Sent: Tuesday, May 12, 2020 10:40 AM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Launch... and the story of an epic failure > > Thanks, Rob. > > The previous owner had done a good job keeping the boat in good shape. > It?s all on my shoulders now... > > The tires I used are Carlisle Sport Trail ST 225/75D15 LRD. I believe this > is what was originally used on the trailer, and the load range (D) should > be adequate. > > And you?re right, I don?t have the mast crutch and raising system on the > boat. I use wood supports to hold the mast in place when trailering, and I > keep the other accessories inside the cabin. I feel like the mast is more > solidly held in place this way. > > Good to know about welding brackets on the trailer. I don?t think I am > going to have to do that this time but I will keep that in mind for the > future. > Alexis > > ________________________________ > From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of > Lowe, Rob > Sent: Tuesday, May 12, 2020 8:51:08 AM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Launch... and the story of an epic failure > > Alexis, > Nice looking boat. Hope you get her repaired and splashed soon. > > I had similar problems with my bunks and ended up replacing all of them. > I also had to have a couple of the metal support pieces re welded. If you > need to go that route, make sure they are welded vertically. They welded > mine on perpendicular to the frame which made them too close together. > This was for the keel guide boards and I could not get the boat loaded as > the keel would not slide it. I ended up replacing the 2X guide boards with > 1X which gave me sufficient room. > > What type of tires did you put on the trailer? I hope trailer tires, > automobile tires do not have the weight capacity you will need. Good time > to take a look. > > I notice you do not have the mast crutch. How about the mast raising > system? A word from experience, when you raise the mast you'll want to get > the aft end of it much higher up in the air before you raise. Good luck! - > rob > > ________________________________ > From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of > Alexis Seigneurin > Sent: Monday, May 11, 2020 4:20 PM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Launch... and the story of an epic failure > > My trailer is a single-axle Triad trailer. All the galvanized steel is in > good shape. It?s just the wood that was probably too old, and the screws > came off. > > I am attaching a picture of the bracket that ended up sticking out. It?s > the little one, on the inside bunk, not the outside one. > > And yes, you can see I had a flat tire. I am not being very lucky this > year... I did replace both tires as they were from 2007, which - I also > learned the hard way - is past age. > > Regarding the rollers, I think my trailer only has one at the aft end. I > think it supports the centerboard but nothing else. > > Alexis > > [Image.jpeg] > > [Image.jpeg] > > ________________________________ > From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of > Michael D. Weisner > Sent: Monday, May 11, 2020 12:26:47 PM > To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Launch... and the story of an epic failure > > I actually carry a roll of Flex Tape (as seen on TV holding a boat > together) > purchased from Home Depot: > > https://www.homedepot.com/p/FLEX-SEAL-FAMILY-OF-PRODUCTS-Flex-Tape-Black-4-i > n-x-5-ft-Strong-Rubberized-Waterproof-Tape-TFSBLKR0405/302634866 > > > The commercial also shows the tape's waterproof property by patching a hole > in an aquarium FROM THE INSIDE, not really useful for a hole in a boat, I > would think. > > I found an investigative report that seems to validate the commercial claim > at: > > https://www.insideedition.com/investigative/25621-are-the-commercials-hyped- > up-investigation-tests-whether-flex-tape-can-hold-a-boat-together > > > Hopefully, I will never need to use it. According to my "friend", Mr. > Murphy, in the unlikely event that I will need the tape, the adhesive will > probably be dried out! > > Mike > s/v Wind Lass ('91) > Nissequogue River, NY > I'd rather be sailing :~) > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of > Lowe, > Rob > Sent: Monday, May 11, 2020 12:07 PM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Launch... and the story of an epic failure > > Not that I'm planning on holing my boat, but I wonder if any boaters carry > tape that could be applied to a hole like this underwater? - rob > > > https://www.homedepot.com/p/Intertape-Polymer-Group-3-in-x-5-yds-VersaTape-U > nderwater-Tape-99688/206300616 > > > > ________________________________ > From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of > Alexis > Seigneurin > Sent: Sunday, May 10, 2020 12:37 PM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Launch... and the story of an epic failure > > I am quite impressed most of you are recommending for me to do the repair > myself! I have watched countless hours of Boatworks Today and Sail Life > videos, so I kind of know the steps for this repair, but I wasn't feeling > like it was a good first project for a fiberglass repair. It's structural > and under the water line, so definitely needs to be done right. I will > think > about it and we'll see what I decide! > > Thanks all, > Alexis > > ________________________________ > From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of Hank > > Sent: Sunday, May 10, 2020 12:29:08 PM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Launch... and the story of an epic failure > > I also didn't have the benefit of all of the youtube videos now available > to > show folks how to do things when I did my first fiberglass repair. Much > easier to be a DIYer these days. > > On Sun, May 10, 2020 at 10:00 AM Mark Whipple > wrote: > > > I agree that fiberglass work is not difficult, but I would also > > suggest that repairing a hole below the waterline may not be the best > > first-time project. It would be great, though, if you could find > > someone to give you a hand like Hank was able to that would be idea. > > FWIW I would recommend Allan H. Vaites Fiberglass Repair Manual < > > https://smile.amazon.com/dp/0071569146?tag=amz-mkt-chr-us-20&ascsubtag > > =1ba00-01000-org00-mac00-other-smile-us000-pcomp-feature-scomp-wm-5&re > > f=aa_scomp > > > > > . > > > > Mark Whipple > > > > > > > > On Sun, May 10, 2020 at 9:14 AM Hank wrote: > > > > > This is definitely true. I had some fiberglass issues on another > > > boat > > that > > > I used to own and was gonna have the yard do it.Instead one of the > > > other guys in the marina showed me that it wasn't that hard to do > > > and I did it myself. Very satisfying and glad I was a able to learn > > > these skills. If you are at all handy you can probly do this yourself > as well. > > > > > > On Sun, May 10, 2020, 05:39 JeffSmith > wrote: > > > > > > > Fiberglass work is fairly easy, if you have the time and access to > > > > the boat. > > > > Check out some YouTube videos and figure out whether you have the > > skills > > > > and > > > > patience. You probably do. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ----- > > > > Jeff Smith > > > > 2009 R22 #101 RADIANT > > > > Atlantic Highlands Municpal Harbor Atlantic Highlands, NJ > > > > > > > > -- > > > > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > > > > > > > > > > > > > -- > > 2000 R22 *Tiny Dancer* > > 1986 Nimble 30 (For Sale) > > 1982 Com-Pac 15 (For Sale) > > Boston, MA > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: Image.jpeg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 406421 bytes > Desc: Image.jpeg > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200511/4536cf86/attachment.jpeg > > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: Image.jpeg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 1287842 bytes > Desc: Image.jpeg > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200511/4536cf86/attachment-0001.jpeg > > > -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_2645.jpg Type: image/jpg Size: 2078459 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_2594.jpg Type: image/jpg Size: 2270048 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rlowe at vt.edu Mon Jun 22 10:13:09 2020 From: rlowe at vt.edu (Lowe, Rob) Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2020 14:13:09 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] mosquito netting for cockpit In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Jessee, Looks like you've got a plan in place. Let us know how it goes. Just hope for no rain. Be sure to get the netting up before the bugs come out so you don't trap them in. If it gets cool enough to get below the dew point, you will wake up damp. Let us know how it goes. - rob ________________________________ From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of Jesse Shumaker Sent: Sunday, June 21, 2020 8:45 PM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: [Rhodes22-list] mosquito netting for cockpit I am getting ready for a road trip to a larger lake with a couple of friends. I will sleep on the settee and they will sleep in the cockpit. Last winter I cut some plywood planks to fit between the benches to make a wide and flat sleeping area. Since bugs could be a problem, I got a big piece of mosquito netting. I anchored out for the first time last night so I could try things out. I draped the mosquito netting over the bimini, and put the entrances where it joins to the cabin and also at the rear of the boat. I used nylon clamps to secure the netting to the bimini straps, around the tiller, and to join with the pop top enclosure, where I left the entrance rolled up. This forms a very large bug free area and it worked out well. Last night was very calm so it may be necessary to take additional steps to secure the netting if it is windy. Before trying this I found some old posts in the archive, but no photos and more ideas than actual experience. However, I'm guessing that some of you may have solved this in similar (and perhaps better) ways. It doesn't provide the protection and privacy of a boom room, but for a dry night this is a cheap and easy solution that pairs nicely with the pop top enclosure. If there is rain, we'll have a big tarp as well to toss over the boom and provide rain cover. Feel free to chime in with your solutions since it's always interesting to see the creativity of the group. Netting: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KKMZRFK/ Clamps: https://www.amazon.com/WORKPRO-16-Piece-Spring-Muslin-Backdrops/dp/B0109K8F3O Jesse Shumaker S/V Zephyr -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: CockpitNetting03.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 97154 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: CockpitNetting01.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 106364 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: CockpitNetting02.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 159068 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: CockpitNetting04.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 131793 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rlowe at vt.edu Mon Jun 22 10:20:41 2020 From: rlowe at vt.edu (Lowe, Rob) Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2020 14:20:41 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Launch... and the story of an epic failure In-Reply-To: <1592758906995-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1589207396593-0.post@n5.nabble.com>,<1592758906995-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: Jeff, I think there are mixed thoughts on the need for keel rollers. I believe Roger has them and believes they are necessary. I'm not sure if they are there for support or to assist with loading the boat. My trailer does not and it's never been a problem. I just moved my boat 300 miles and didn't have a bit of trouble. - rob ________________________________ From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of JeffSmith Sent: Sunday, June 21, 2020 1:01 PM To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Launch... and the story of an epic failure I had been planning to store the boat in the yard and trailer launch it for sailing, but the difficult launch even with the 10' extension led me to put it on a mooring instead. Since my wife and I hope to travel to new cruising grounds and trailer launch when we get there, I am very interested in the idea of adding keel support rollers on a Triad trailer. Additional pix will be appreciated. ----- Jeff Smith 2009 R22 #101 RADIANT Atlantic Highlands Municpal Harbor Atlantic Highlands, NJ -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From allynb at adsne.com Mon Jun 22 10:55:42 2020 From: allynb at adsne.com (Allyn Baskerville) Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2020 14:55:42 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Boom Connection to Mast Message-ID: Someone made a comment to me that my boom and sail are too far apart, so I did a little investigating. There is a hard piece of black plastic connected to the mast track with a hole drilled off center. There appears to be a corresponding hole (albeit significantly larger) drilled into the mast. This will raise the boom up a couple inches (and probably keep the pop top from hitting the bottom of the mast), but I have no idea what kind of hardware goes into this hole. Am I missing something here? Thanks -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Mast Connection Small.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 96196 bytes Desc: Mast Connection Small.jpg URL: From keywestseccorp at verizon.net Mon Jun 22 11:18:12 2020 From: keywestseccorp at verizon.net (Mark West) Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2020 15:18:12 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Boom Connection to Mast In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <618086043.1307945.1592839092378@mail.yahoo.com> the boom and furling tube assembly can slide down or up. A rectangular plastic should have spring loaded pin in corner and two holes in mast it pops into. One is for boom to be above a raised hatch also head clearance in cockpit .This is most commonly used position. The lower position? ?I use in higher winds or stormy conditions . Mark?sv?fairwinds II? ----Original Message-----From: Allyn Baskerville To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Sent: Mon, Jun 22, 2020 10:55 am Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Boom Connection to Mast Someone made a comment to me that my boom and sail are too far apart, so I did a little investigating. There is a hard piece of black plastic connected to the mast track with a hole drilled off center. There appears to be a corresponding hole (albeit significantly larger) drilled into the mast. This will raise the boom up a couple inches (and probably keep the pop top from hitting the bottom of the mast), but I have no idea what kind of hardware goes into this hole. Am I missing something here? Thanks -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Mast Connection Small.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 96196 bytes Desc: Mast Connection Small.jpg URL: From rlowe at vt.edu Mon Jun 22 11:25:22 2020 From: rlowe at vt.edu (Lowe, Rob) Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2020 15:25:22 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Boom Connection to Mast In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Allyn, Where is your boom connected? What you have here it the top piece of plastic is for the boom and the bottom piece is for the front of the pop top to attach to. The top piece should have a pin in the hole, just like the one you have in the bottom piece. The pin allows you to put the boom in different positions using the holes on the left side of the mast while the pin on the pop top holder allows you to put the pop top up and down using the holes on the right hand side. It looks like right now you are using the bottom piece to hold the top piece in place? They should move independently of each other. - rob ________________________________ From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of Allyn Baskerville Sent: Monday, June 22, 2020 10:55 AM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Boom Connection to Mast Someone made a comment to me that my boom and sail are too far apart, so I did a little investigating. There is a hard piece of black plastic connected to the mast track with a hole drilled off center. There appears to be a corresponding hole (albeit significantly larger) drilled into the mast. This will raise the boom up a couple inches (and probably keep the pop top from hitting the bottom of the mast), but I have no idea what kind of hardware goes into this hole. Am I missing something here? Thanks -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Mast Connection Small.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 96196 bytes Desc: Mast Connection Small.jpg URL: From robert at pamayared.com Mon Jun 22 16:42:30 2020 From: robert at pamayared.com (robert51) Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2020 13:42:30 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Where does this go Message-ID: <1592858550726-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Just stepped mast. Found attached picture hanging from traveler. Where does it go Thanks -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From hnw555 at gmail.com Mon Jun 22 16:43:27 2020 From: hnw555 at gmail.com (Hank) Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2020 16:43:27 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Where does this go In-Reply-To: <1592858550726-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1592858550726-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: Robert, The picture didn't come through. Hank On Mon, Jun 22, 2020 at 4:42 PM robert51 wrote: > Just stepped mast. Found attached picture hanging from traveler. Where does > it go > Thanks > > > > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > From robert at pamayared.com Mon Jun 22 16:47:39 2020 From: robert at pamayared.com (robert51) Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2020 13:47:39 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] What is this Message-ID: <1592858859997-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Where does this go -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From robert at pamayared.com Mon Jun 22 16:50:38 2020 From: robert at pamayared.com (robert51) Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2020 13:50:38 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Where does this go Message-ID: <1592859038081-0.post@n5.nabble.com> -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From keywestseccorp at verizon.net Mon Jun 22 16:51:36 2020 From: keywestseccorp at verizon.net (Mark West) Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2020 20:51:36 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Where does this go In-Reply-To: <1592859038081-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1592859038081-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <1138883166.1459625.1592859096520@mail.yahoo.com> NO PICTURES?? -----Original Message----- From: robert51 To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Sent: Mon, Jun 22, 2020 4:50 pm Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Where does this go -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From robert at pamayared.com Mon Jun 22 16:56:04 2020 From: robert at pamayared.com (Robert@ Pamaya Red) Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2020 16:56:04 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Where does this go In-Reply-To: References: <1592858550726-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: On Mon, Jun 22, 2020, 4:43 PM Hank wrote: > Robert, > > The picture didn't come through. > > Hank > > On Mon, Jun 22, 2020 at 4:42 PM robert51 wrote: > > > Just stepped mast. Found attached picture hanging from traveler. Where > does > > it go > > Thanks > > > > > > > > -- > > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > > > -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_20200622_165419.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 3513034 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rlowe at vt.edu Mon Jun 22 17:05:14 2020 From: rlowe at vt.edu (Lowe, Rob) Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2020 21:05:14 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Where does this go In-Reply-To: References: <1592858550726-0.post@n5.nabble.com> , Message-ID: Robert, That time the photo came through. Perhaps posting through nabble strips out the attachments. That being said, I have no idea what that is or what is is used for. - Rob ________________________________ From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of Robert@ Pamaya Red Sent: Monday, June 22, 2020 4:56 PM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Where does this go On Mon, Jun 22, 2020, 4:43 PM Hank wrote: > Robert, > > The picture didn't come through. > > Hank > > On Mon, Jun 22, 2020 at 4:42 PM robert51 wrote: > > > Just stepped mast. Found attached picture hanging from traveler. Where > does > > it go > > Thanks > > > > > > > > -- > > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > > > -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_20200622_165419.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 3513034 bytes Desc: not available URL: From keywestseccorp at verizon.net Mon Jun 22 17:06:09 2020 From: keywestseccorp at verizon.net (Mark West) Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2020 21:06:09 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Where does this go In-Reply-To: References: <1592858550726-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <872955246.1468520.1592859969019@mail.yahoo.com> I don't have one on my 89 Probably owner adaptation? -----Original Message----- From: Robert@ Pamaya Red To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Sent: Mon, Jun 22, 2020 4:56 pm Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Where does this go On Mon, Jun 22, 2020, 4:43 PM Hank wrote: > Robert, > > The picture didn't come through. > > Hank > > On Mon, Jun 22, 2020 at 4:42 PM robert51 wrote: > > > Just stepped mast. Found attached picture hanging from traveler. Where > does > > it go > > Thanks > > > > > > > > -- > > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > > > -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_20200622_165419.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 3513034 bytes Desc: not available URL: From mike at traildesign.com Mon Jun 22 18:50:52 2020 From: mike at traildesign.com (Mike Riter) Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2020 17:50:52 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Where does this go In-Reply-To: <872955246.1468520.1592859969019@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1592858550726-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <872955246.1468520.1592859969019@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Agree with Mark. Maybe used to rig a preventer? Don't know why it would be adjustable with a turnbuckle though. Curious to see if anyone knows. Mike Riter SV Emma B On Mon, Jun 22, 2020 at 4:06 PM Mark West via Rhodes22-list < rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote: > I don't have one on my 89 Probably owner adaptation > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Robert@ Pamaya Red > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Sent: Mon, Jun 22, 2020 4:56 pm > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Where does this go > > On Mon, Jun 22, 2020, 4:43 PM Hank wrote: > > > Robert, > > > > The picture didn't come through. > > > > Hank > > > > On Mon, Jun 22, 2020 at 4:42 PM robert51 wrote: > > > > > Just stepped mast. Found attached picture hanging from traveler. Where > > does > > > it go > > > Thanks > > > > > > > > > > > > -- > > > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: IMG_20200622_165419.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 3513034 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200622/7a8d8274/attachment.jpg > > > From sloopblueheron at gmail.com Mon Jun 22 19:18:51 2020 From: sloopblueheron at gmail.com (Rick Lange) Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2020 19:18:51 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Where does this go In-Reply-To: References: <1592858550726-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: Robert, Do you have the usual rope tensioner between the back stays? Regards, Rick Lange On Mon, Jun 22, 2020 at 4:56 PM Robert@ Pamaya Red wrote: > On Mon, Jun 22, 2020, 4:43 PM Hank wrote: > > > Robert, > > > > The picture didn't come through. > > > > Hank > > > > On Mon, Jun 22, 2020 at 4:42 PM robert51 wrote: > > > > > Just stepped mast. Found attached picture hanging from traveler. Where > > does > > > it go > > > Thanks > > > > > > > > > > > > -- > > > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: IMG_20200622_165419.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 3513034 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200622/7a8d8274/attachment.jpg > > > From shawn.sustain at gmail.com Mon Jun 22 19:34:40 2020 From: shawn.sustain at gmail.com (Shawn Boles) Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2020 16:34:40 -0700 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Where does this go In-Reply-To: References: <1592858550726-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <872955246.1468520.1592859969019@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Leg irons. When using lazaret as a brig. Cheers, Shawn s/v Sweet Baboo On Mon, Jun 22, 2020, 3:51 PM Mike Riter wrote: > Agree with Mark. Maybe used to rig a preventer? Don't know why it would be > adjustable with a turnbuckle though. Curious to see if anyone knows. > > Mike Riter > SV Emma B > > > > On Mon, Jun 22, 2020 at 4:06 PM Mark West via Rhodes22-list < > rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote: > > > I don't have one on my 89 Probably owner adaptation > > > > > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Robert@ Pamaya Red > > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > > Sent: Mon, Jun 22, 2020 4:56 pm > > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Where does this go > > > > On Mon, Jun 22, 2020, 4:43 PM Hank wrote: > > > > > Robert, > > > > > > The picture didn't come through. > > > > > > Hank > > > > > > On Mon, Jun 22, 2020 at 4:42 PM robert51 wrote: > > > > > > > Just stepped mast. Found attached picture hanging from traveler. > Where > > > does > > > > it go > > > > Thanks > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > -- > > > > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > > > > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > Name: IMG_20200622_165419.jpg > > Type: image/jpeg > > Size: 3513034 bytes > > Desc: not available > > URL: < > > > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200622/7a8d8274/attachment.jpg > > > > > > From robert at pamayared.com Mon Jun 22 19:52:32 2020 From: robert at pamayared.com (Robert@ Pamaya Red) Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2020 19:52:32 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Where does this go In-Reply-To: References: <1592858550726-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <872955246.1468520.1592859969019@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Haha. Sounds right On Mon, Jun 22, 2020, 7:34 PM Shawn Boles wrote: > Leg irons. When using lazaret as a brig. > > Cheers, > > Shawn > s/v Sweet Baboo > > On Mon, Jun 22, 2020, 3:51 PM Mike Riter wrote: > > > Agree with Mark. Maybe used to rig a preventer? Don't know why it would > be > > adjustable with a turnbuckle though. Curious to see if anyone knows. > > > > Mike Riter > > SV Emma B > > > > > > > > On Mon, Jun 22, 2020 at 4:06 PM Mark West via Rhodes22-list < > > rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote: > > > > > I don't have one on my 89 Probably owner adaptation > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > > From: Robert@ Pamaya Red > > > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > > > Sent: Mon, Jun 22, 2020 4:56 pm > > > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Where does this go > > > > > > On Mon, Jun 22, 2020, 4:43 PM Hank wrote: > > > > > > > Robert, > > > > > > > > The picture didn't come through. > > > > > > > > Hank > > > > > > > > On Mon, Jun 22, 2020 at 4:42 PM robert51 > wrote: > > > > > > > > > Just stepped mast. Found attached picture hanging from traveler. > > Where > > > > does > > > > > it go > > > > > Thanks > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > -- > > > > > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > > > > > > > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > > Name: IMG_20200622_165419.jpg > > > Type: image/jpeg > > > Size: 3513034 bytes > > > Desc: not available > > > URL: < > > > > > > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200622/7a8d8274/attachment.jpg > > > > > > > > > > From chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com Tue Jun 23 08:28:08 2020 From: chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com (Chris Geankoplis) Date: Tue, 23 Jun 2020 07:28:08 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] =?utf-8?q?Where_does_this_Gowan=E2=80=99s_the_PBO?= =?utf-8?q?_into_anything_Kinney=2E_Was_any_duck_feathers_or_linole?= =?utf-8?q?um_associated_with_the_device=3F_Enosis?= In-Reply-To: References: <1592858550726-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <872955246.1468520.1592859969019@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: On Mon, 22 Jun 2020 at 18:53, Robert@ Pamaya Red wrote: > Haha. Sounds right > > On Mon, Jun 22, 2020, 7:34 PM Shawn Boles wrote: > > > Leg irons. When using lazaret as a brig. > > > > Cheers, > > > > Shawn > > s/v Sweet Baboo > > > > On Mon, Jun 22, 2020, 3:51 PM Mike Riter wrote: > > > > > Agree with Mark. Maybe used to rig a preventer? Don't know why it would > > be > > > adjustable with a turnbuckle though. Curious to see if anyone knows. > > > > > > Mike Riter > > > SV Emma B > > > > > > > > > > > > On Mon, Jun 22, 2020 at 4:06 PM Mark West via Rhodes22-list < > > > rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote: > > > > > > > I don't have one on my 89 Probably owner adaptation > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > > > From: Robert@ Pamaya Red > > > > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > > > > Sent: Mon, Jun 22, 2020 4:56 pm > > > > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Where does this go > > > > > > > > On Mon, Jun 22, 2020, 4:43 PM Hank wrote: > > > > > > > > > Robert, > > > > > > > > > > The picture didn't come through. > > > > > > > > > > Hank > > > > > > > > > > On Mon, Jun 22, 2020 at 4:42 PM robert51 > > wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > Just stepped mast. Found attached picture hanging from traveler. > > > Where > > > > > does > > > > > > it go > > > > > > Thanks > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > -- > > > > > > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > > > Name: IMG_20200622_165419.jpg > > > > Type: image/jpeg > > > > Size: 3513034 bytes > > > > Desc: not available > > > > URL: < > > > > > > > > > > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200622/7a8d8274/attachment.jpg > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > From keywestseccorp at verizon.net Tue Jun 23 09:09:34 2020 From: keywestseccorp at verizon.net (Mark West) Date: Tue, 23 Jun 2020 13:09:34 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Where does this go In-Reply-To: <1592859038081-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1592859038081-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <1326016162.1678388.1592917774338@mail.yahoo.com> did your boat come with a? 1horse power look more like a bit. Most likely? an back stay tensioner might put both ends of backstays? ?through loops pulldown on attached line to tighten backstays looks short would be high up mast though???.? I? would use the factory type of line pulleys and cleat.? fun to think on though good luck.?Mark? ?S/V Fairwinds II -----Original Message----- From: robert51 To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Sent: Mon, Jun 22, 2020 4:50 pm Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Where does this go -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From robert at pamayared.com Tue Jun 23 13:10:27 2020 From: robert at pamayared.com (Robert@ Pamaya Red) Date: Tue, 23 Jun 2020 13:10:27 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Where does this go In-Reply-To: <1326016162.1678388.1592917774338@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1592859038081-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1326016162.1678388.1592917774338@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: spoke to previous owner. No horse, used it to raise traveller to pull up outboard On Tue, Jun 23, 2020 at 9:09 AM Mark West via Rhodes22-list < rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote: > did your boat come with a 1horse power look more like a bit. Most likely > an back stay tensioner might put both ends of backstays through loops > pulldown on attached line to tighten backstays looks short would be high up > mast though???. I would use the factory type of line pulleys and cleat. > fun to think on though good luck. Mark S/V Fairwinds II > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: robert51 > To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org > Sent: Mon, Jun 22, 2020 4:50 pm > Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Where does this go > > > > > > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > From jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com Tue Jun 23 14:57:22 2020 From: jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com (JeffSmith) Date: Tue, 23 Jun 2020 11:57:22 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Launch... and the story of an epic failure In-Reply-To: References: <1589207396593-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1592758906995-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <1592938642507-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Hi Rob, It may be my local ramp is on the shallow side... Are ramps categorized in any way? Especially the slope? ----- Jeff Smith 2009 R22 #101 RADIANT Atlantic Highlands Municpal Harbor Atlantic Highlands, NJ -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From mike at traildesign.com Tue Jun 23 16:54:58 2020 From: mike at traildesign.com (Mike Riter) Date: Tue, 23 Jun 2020 15:54:58 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Launch... and the story of an epic failure In-Reply-To: <1592938642507-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1589207396593-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1592758906995-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1592938642507-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: That's a great question Jeff. I'm curious to see what others say. My ramp (Lake Hartwell, GA) is steep and it holds the trailer at a sharp angle to the boat. After scraping the bottom of the bow on the metal cross member of my trailer a few times I installed a second keel roller there to stop the problem. Michael Riter President, Trail Design Specialists, Inc. Lead Instructor, Trail Master and mechanized training mike at traildesign.com 678-410-8021 On Tue, Jun 23, 2020 at 1:57 PM JeffSmith wrote: > Hi Rob, > It may be my local ramp is on the shallow side... Are ramps categorized in > any way? Especially the slope? > > > > ----- > Jeff Smith > 2009 R22 #101 RADIANT > Atlantic Highlands Municpal Harbor > Atlantic Highlands, NJ > > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > From rlowe at vt.edu Tue Jun 23 17:33:18 2020 From: rlowe at vt.edu (Lowe, Rob) Date: Tue, 23 Jun 2020 21:33:18 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Launch... and the story of an epic failure In-Reply-To: References: <1589207396593-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1592758906995-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1592938642507-0.post@n5.nabble.com>, Message-ID: I don't know that ramps are rated as far as slope. There are two at the lake I sail at and are generally thought of as the shallow ramp and the deep ramp. Anyone with a fin or fixed keel boat have to launch at the deep ramp while us with a swing keel can launch at the shallow ramp. But even then if the lake is low the shallow ramp becomes a challenge. ________________________________ From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of Mike Riter Sent: Tuesday, June 23, 2020 4:54 PM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Launch... and the story of an epic failure That's a great question Jeff. I'm curious to see what others say. My ramp (Lake Hartwell, GA) is steep and it holds the trailer at a sharp angle to the boat. After scraping the bottom of the bow on the metal cross member of my trailer a few times I installed a second keel roller there to stop the problem. Michael Riter President, Trail Design Specialists, Inc. Lead Instructor, Trail Master and mechanized training mike at traildesign.com 678-410-8021 On Tue, Jun 23, 2020 at 1:57 PM JeffSmith wrote: > Hi Rob, > It may be my local ramp is on the shallow side... Are ramps categorized in > any way? Especially the slope? > > > > ----- > Jeff Smith > 2009 R22 #101 RADIANT > Atlantic Highlands Municpal Harbor > Atlantic Highlands, NJ > > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > From talbotdavid50 at gmail.com Tue Jun 23 20:08:35 2020 From: talbotdavid50 at gmail.com (David Talbot) Date: Tue, 23 Jun 2020 20:08:35 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Launch... and the story of an epic failure In-Reply-To: References: <1589207396593-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1592758906995-0.post@n5.nabble.com> <1592938642507-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: Alexis, Glad to hear the price not high, and I think you were wise to have a yard do something of this magnitude. Many of us have had these ?learning experiences? (mine involved a mast going sideways on raising it, snapping the mast foot) and its great to have this learning happen on or right by the shore!! On Tue, Jun 23, 2020 at 5:33 PM, Lowe, Rob wrote: > I don't know that ramps are rated as far as slope. There are two at the > lake I sail at and are generally thought of as the shallow ramp and the > deep ramp. Anyone with a fin or fixed keel boat have to launch at the deep > ramp while us with a swing keel can launch at the shallow ramp. But even > then if the lake is low the shallow ramp becomes a challenge. > > ________________________________ > From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of > Mike Riter > Sent: Tuesday, June 23, 2020 4:54 PM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Launch... and the of an epic failure > > That's a great question Jeff. I'm curious to see what others say. > My ramp (Lake Hartwell, GA) is steep and it holds the trailer at a sharp > angle to the boat. After scraping the bottom of the bow on the metal cross > member of my trailer a few times I installed a second keel roller there to > stop the problem. > > Michael Riter > President, Trail Design Specialists, Inc. > Lead Instructor, Trail Master and mechanized training > mike at traildesign.com > 678-410-8021 > > > > On Tue, Jun 23, 2020 at 1:57 PM JeffSmith > wrote: > > > Hi Rob, > > It may be my local ramp is on the shallow side... Are ramps categorized > in > > any way? Especially the slope? > > > > > > > > ----- > > Jeff Smith > > 2009 R22 #101 RADIANT > > Atlantic Highlands Municpal Harbor > > Atlantic Highlands, NJ > > > > -- > > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > > > From keywestseccorp at verizon.net Wed Jun 24 12:08:29 2020 From: keywestseccorp at verizon.net (Mark West) Date: Wed, 24 Jun 2020 16:08:29 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] dingy built this winter test References: <1325004953.2167895.1593014909554.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1325004953.2167895.1593014909554@mail.yahoo.com> did well ,didn't like close reach working on mast angle and center board position getting better. tows well on painter old popular mechanic's plans "Bannock" -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0340.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 128819 bytes Desc: not available URL: From keywestseccorp at verizon.net Wed Jun 24 12:10:37 2020 From: keywestseccorp at verizon.net (Mark West) Date: Wed, 24 Jun 2020 16:10:37 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] dingy built this winter test In-Reply-To: <1325004953.2167895.1593014909554@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1325004953.2167895.1593014909554.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1325004953.2167895.1593014909554@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <2054249347.2177860.1593015037229@mail.yahoo.com> -----Original Message----- From: Mark West via Rhodes22-list To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Sent: Wed, Jun 24, 2020 12:08 pm Subject: [Rhodes22-list] dingy built this winter test did well ,didn't like close reach working on mast angle and center board position getting better. tows well on painter old popular mechanic's plans "Bannock" -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0340.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 128819 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0253.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 106823 bytes Desc: not available URL: From mike at traildesign.com Wed Jun 24 12:56:01 2020 From: mike at traildesign.com (Mike Riter) Date: Wed, 24 Jun 2020 11:56:01 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] dingy built this winter test In-Reply-To: <1325004953.2167895.1593014909554@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1325004953.2167895.1593014909554.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1325004953.2167895.1593014909554@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Mark, I just looked at the plans for that boat. You did an incredible job on what looks like a fairly complicated build! Michael Riter SV Emma B On Wed, Jun 24, 2020 at 11:08 AM Mark West via Rhodes22-list < rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote: > did well ,didn't like close reach working on mast angle and center board > position getting better. tows well on painter old popular mechanic's plans > "Bannock" > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: IMG_0340.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 128819 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200624/fe759029/attachment.jpg > > > From keywestseccorp at verizon.net Wed Jun 24 13:19:46 2020 From: keywestseccorp at verizon.net (Mark West) Date: Wed, 24 Jun 2020 17:19:46 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] dingy built this winter test In-Reply-To: References: <1325004953.2167895.1593014909554.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1325004953.2167895.1593014909554@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <186954789.2206166.1593019186738@mail.yahoo.com> the plans are highlight version of full plans. you could buy , I couldn't find full plans had to SWAG some things -----Original Message----- From: Mike Riter To: Mark West ; The Rhodes 22 Email List Sent: Wed, Jun 24, 2020 12:56 pm Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] dingy built this winter test Mark, I just?looked at the plans for that boat. You did an incredible job on what looks like a fairly complicated build!? Michael Riter SV Emma B On Wed, Jun 24, 2020 at 11:08 AM Mark West via Rhodes22-list wrote: did well ,didn't like close reach working on mast angle and center board position getting better. tows well on painter old popular mechanic's plans "Bannock" -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0340.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 128819 bytes Desc: not available URL: From tvpolise at aol.com Thu Jun 25 17:16:43 2020 From: tvpolise at aol.com (THOMAS POLISE) Date: Thu, 25 Jun 2020 17:16:43 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Interior cushions References: Message-ID: I recently redid my interior and have a set of the interior cushions in good condition if anyone wants/needs them. Pick up in LBI NJ. From cknell at vt.edu Thu Jun 25 18:06:53 2020 From: cknell at vt.edu (Chris on LBI) Date: Thu, 25 Jun 2020 15:06:53 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Interior cushions In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1593122813289-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Hi Thomas, I'm on LBI in Brant Beach. I'd be interested in taking a look at your interior cushions. Would there be sometime over the weekend that would be convenient for you? Thanks, Chris on LBI ----- Long Beach Island -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From jayf401 at gmail.com Thu Jun 25 19:41:04 2020 From: jayf401 at gmail.com (Jay Friedland) Date: Thu, 25 Jun 2020 19:41:04 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Interior cushions In-Reply-To: <1593122813289-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1593122813289-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: What color, Chris? Sent from my iPhone > On Jun 25, 2020, at 6:07 PM, Chris on LBI wrote: > > ?Hi Thomas, > > I'm on LBI in Brant Beach. I'd be interested in taking a look at your > interior cushions. Would there be sometime over the weekend that would be > convenient for you? > > Thanks, > Chris on LBI > > > > ----- > Long Beach Island > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From jayf401 at gmail.com Thu Jun 25 19:45:03 2020 From: jayf401 at gmail.com (Jay Friedland) Date: Thu, 25 Jun 2020 19:45:03 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Interior cushions In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <92332BFD-0391-4920-8EFE-A360641919E2@gmail.com> Thomas, Where are you on LBI? Here near Spray Beach. If Chris doesn?t go for them, I may be interested. What color? Would love to see your updates. Sent from my iPhone > On Jun 25, 2020, at 5:16 PM, THOMAS POLISE via Rhodes22-list wrote: > > ?I recently redid my interior and have a set of the interior cushions in good condition if anyone wants/needs them. Pick up in LBI NJ. From tvpolise at aol.com Thu Jun 25 20:11:35 2020 From: tvpolise at aol.com (THOMAS POLISE) Date: Thu, 25 Jun 2020 20:11:35 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Interior cushions In-Reply-To: <1593122813289-0.post@n5.nabble.com> References: <1593122813289-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Message-ID: <01FE328A-DEA0-4924-9F4B-BCFBBBA5F721@aol.com> I?m here all weekend. > On Jun 25, 2020, at 6:07 PM, Chris on LBI wrote: > > ?Hi Thomas, > > I'm on LBI in Brant Beach. I'd be interested in taking a look at your > interior cushions. Would there be sometime over the weekend that would be > convenient for you? > > Thanks, > Chris on LBI > > > > ----- > Long Beach Island > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From cknell at vt.edu Thu Jun 25 20:36:27 2020 From: cknell at vt.edu (Chris on LBI) Date: Thu, 25 Jun 2020 17:36:27 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Interior cushions In-Reply-To: <92332BFD-0391-4920-8EFE-A360641919E2@gmail.com> References: <92332BFD-0391-4920-8EFE-A360641919E2@gmail.com> Message-ID: <1593131787481-0.post@n5.nabble.com> Jay, >From the photo they look nice. You were so kind as to allow me to visit your Rhodes to examine the spreader shims last spring. Why don't you take the first option on them. If you don't want them, I'll have a look. Please let me know. Chris on LBI ----- Long Beach Island -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ From oehecht at gmail.com Sat Jun 27 21:01:41 2020 From: oehecht at gmail.com (Olivier Hecht) Date: Sat, 27 Jun 2020 21:01:41 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] =?utf-8?b?TW90b3IgbGlmdCDigJxiZWFyaW5nc+KAnT8=?= Message-ID: Did 50 miles on Fretless from 3 pm Friday to 6 pm today, with a nice break at a marina from 7 pm to 8 am! An unpleasant part of the experience was dealing with the motor lift getting crooked in the tracks because two of the four plastic ?bearings? the mount rides on were worn out/missing. See pics. I sent a note to Stan but also wanted to ask here if anyone has replaced these. Any tips on replacing them without dismounting the motor if that?s possible? The side tracks appear to come off and I was able to retrieve one of the bearings that was loose in the track after parking the it on its trailer. Getting new ones in will probably be harder though... Thanks. Olivier -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0124.jpg Type: image/jpg Size: 2110648 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0125.jpg Type: image/jpg Size: 614559 bytes Desc: not available URL: From roger_pihlaja at msn.com Sun Jun 28 11:05:55 2020 From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA) Date: Sun, 28 Jun 2020 15:05:55 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] =?windows-1252?q?Motor_lift_=93bearings=94=3F?= In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Olivier, I?ve attached a close-up photo of the linear bearing on my GBI motor mount. Note that it doesn?t seem at all like yours. My linear bearings are T-shaped pieces of glass-filled PTFE that ride in 6061 T6 Aluminum C-Channels. This design of linear bearing has a huge bearing surface area, so the wear rate is minimal. The design is self flushing to keep abrasive debris out of the bearing. Plus, the bearings can be easily swapped out W/O disassembling the whole motor mount when replacement is required after many, many service hours. I don?t know when GBI changed the design; but, it might be helpful if you provided a few more photos of your motor mount. Also, it might be helpful if you make a few measurements of the ID/OD/Length of your bearings. They might be standard plastic pipe sizes and easily sourced from Grainger, McMaster-Carr, or United States Plastics Corp. Roger Pihlaja S/V Dynamic Equilibrium [cid:image003.jpg at 01D64D3C.17C68130] Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Olivier Hecht Sent: Saturday, June 27, 2020 9:01 PM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Motor lift ?bearings?? Did 50 miles on Fretless from 3 pm Friday to 6 pm today, with a nice break at a marina from 7 pm to 8 am! An unpleasant part of the experience was dealing with the motor lift getting crooked in the tracks because two of the four plastic ?bearings? the mount rides on were worn out/missing. See pics. I sent a note to Stan but also wanted to ask here if anyone has replaced these. Any tips on replacing them without dismounting the motor if that?s possible? The side tracks appear to come off and I was able to retrieve one of the bearings that was loose in the track after parking the it on its trailer. Getting new ones in will probably be harder though... Thanks. Olivier -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0124.jpg Type: image/jpg Size: 2110648 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0125.jpg Type: image/jpg Size: 614559 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: BF18051D5E90405A940F1CBA91227825.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 174549 bytes Desc: BF18051D5E90405A940F1CBA91227825.jpg URL: From oehecht at gmail.com Sun Jun 28 13:16:29 2020 From: oehecht at gmail.com (Olivier Hecht) Date: Sun, 28 Jun 2020 13:16:29 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] =?utf-8?b?TW90b3IgbGlmdCDigJxiZWFyaW5nc+KAnT8=?= In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Thanks Roger. That is a lot different and looks like an upgrade! I wish I?d taken more pictures before leaving the boat at the yard again...I can do that the next time I?m there. Basically though, there are four round protrusions on the movable carriage in the mount at the four corners of that carriage. Those are the parts that fit inside the plastic bearings I?m trying to replace. BTW, those protrusions themselves look pretty work themselves so upgrading the carriage might be the best long-term idea. Raising and lowering the motor has always been very tough with this design. One of the many reasons I?m so hesitant to use the motor! Olivier On Sun, Jun 28, 2020 at 11:05 AM ROGER PIHLAJA wrote: > Olivier, > > I?ve attached a close-up photo of the linear bearing on my GBI motor > mount. Note that it doesn?t seem at all like yours. My linear bearings > are T-shaped pieces of glass-filled PTFE that ride in 6061 T6 Aluminum > C-Channels. This design of linear bearing has a huge bearing surface area, > so the wear rate is minimal. The design is self flushing to keep abrasive > debris out of the bearing. Plus, the bearings can be easily swapped out > W/O disassembling the whole motor mount when replacement is required after > many, many service hours. I don?t know when GBI changed the design; but, > it might be helpful if you provided a few more photos of your motor mount. > > Also, it might be helpful if you make a few measurements of the > ID/OD/Length of your bearings. They might be standard plastic pipe sizes > and easily sourced from Grainger, McMaster-Carr, or United States Plastics > Corp. > > Roger Pihlaja > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium > > [cid:image003.jpg at 01D64D3C.17C68130] > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > > From: Olivier Hecht > Sent: Saturday, June 27, 2020 9:01 PM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Motor lift ?bearings?? > > Did 50 miles on Fretless from 3 pm Friday to 6 pm today, with a nice break > at a marina from 7 pm to 8 am! > > An unpleasant part of the experience was dealing with the motor lift > getting crooked in the tracks because two of the four plastic ?bearings? > the mount rides on were worn out/missing. See pics. I sent a note to Stan > but also wanted to ask here if anyone has replaced these. Any tips on > replacing them without dismounting the motor if that?s possible? The side > tracks appear to come off and I was able to retrieve one of the bearings > that was loose in the track after parking the it on its trailer. Getting > new ones in will probably be harder though... > > Thanks. Olivier > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: IMG_0124.jpg > Type: image/jpg > Size: 2110648 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200627/b841e8e0/attachment.jpg > > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: IMG_0125.jpg > Type: image/jpg > Size: 614559 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200627/b841e8e0/attachment-0001.jpg > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: BF18051D5E90405A940F1CBA91227825.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 174549 bytes > Desc: BF18051D5E90405A940F1CBA91227825.jpg > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200628/24d54a79/attachment.jpg > > > From roger_pihlaja at msn.com Sun Jun 28 14:36:14 2020 From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA) Date: Sun, 28 Jun 2020 18:36:14 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] T767 SCUBA High Adventure Trip Open Water Certification Dives In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi All, With Sanford Lake reduced to a small trickle of its former self, I have to find my on-the water fun elsewhere. In August, I?m leading my Boy Scout Troop on a High Adventure Shipwreck SCUBA Diving Trip to the Straits of Mackinac Shipwreck Preserve. We?ve been working all Winter/Spring to get our SCUBA certification. The final step was to do 4 open water certification dives as a sort of hands-on final exam. We did our 4 open water certification dives at Higgins Lake last week Thursday & Friday. The attachments are some photos of the event. Higgins Lake is very deep and cold, hence the full wetsuits, gloves, and hoods. Roger Pihlaja S/V Dynamic Equilibrium [cid:image001.jpg at 01D64D59.77DE6520] [cid:image002.jpg at 01D64D59.77DE6520] [cid:image004.jpg at 01D64D59.77DE6520] Sent from Mail for Windows 10 -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: ACA34E305CDE4D6A83071DB0984586CC.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 126631 bytes Desc: ACA34E305CDE4D6A83071DB0984586CC.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: BAC95968AFCC494E980E56EB91E49F4C.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 99595 bytes Desc: BAC95968AFCC494E980E56EB91E49F4C.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: E026F1EE079745718BB29E06D30BEA02.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 80294 bytes Desc: E026F1EE079745718BB29E06D30BEA02.jpg URL: From hnw555 at gmail.com Sun Jun 28 15:09:17 2020 From: hnw555 at gmail.com (Hank) Date: Sun, 28 Jun 2020 15:09:17 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] T767 SCUBA High Adventure Trip Open Water Certification Dives In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Very nice! My son did Philmont and then we both did Seabase in Florida. I got my open water certification in the Philippines so slightly warmer temps that what you were dealing with, lol! Hank On Sun, Jun 28, 2020 at 2:36 PM ROGER PIHLAJA wrote: > Hi All, > > With Sanford Lake reduced to a small trickle of its former self, I have to > find my on-the water fun elsewhere. In August, I?m leading my Boy Scout > Troop on a High Adventure Shipwreck SCUBA Diving Trip to the Straits of > Mackinac Shipwreck Preserve. We?ve been working all Winter/Spring to get > our SCUBA certification. The final step was to do 4 open water > certification dives as a sort of hands-on final exam. We did our 4 open > water certification dives at Higgins Lake last week Thursday & Friday. The > attachments are some photos of the event. Higgins Lake is very deep and > cold, hence the full wetsuits, gloves, and hoods. > > Roger Pihlaja > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium > > [cid:image001.jpg at 01D64D59.77DE6520] > > [cid:image002.jpg at 01D64D59.77DE6520] > > [cid:image004.jpg at 01D64D59.77DE6520] > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: ACA34E305CDE4D6A83071DB0984586CC.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 126631 bytes > Desc: ACA34E305CDE4D6A83071DB0984586CC.jpg > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200628/55f66bec/attachment.jpg > > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: BAC95968AFCC494E980E56EB91E49F4C.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 99595 bytes > Desc: BAC95968AFCC494E980E56EB91E49F4C.jpg > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200628/55f66bec/attachment-0001.jpg > > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: E026F1EE079745718BB29E06D30BEA02.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 80294 bytes > Desc: E026F1EE079745718BB29E06D30BEA02.jpg > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200628/55f66bec/attachment-0002.jpg > > > From Roger_Pihlaja at msn.com Sun Jun 28 15:31:33 2020 From: Roger_Pihlaja at msn.com (Roger Pihlaja Home) Date: Sun, 28 Jun 2020 15:31:33 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] T767 SCUBA High Adventure Trip Open Water Certification Dives In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hank, We worked with a local SCUBA diving outfitter that I?ve used before. Because it was for the Boy Scouts, he gave us a tremendous package deal on the lessons, personal gear, and dive charter. We were able to offer 4 days of shipwreck diving in the Straits of Mackinac (tip of the ?mitten? where Lake Michigan and Lake Huron meet) for ~1/4 the cost of a trip to the BSA?s Florida Seabase. Plus, no waiting list! I?ve been to Philmont, the Northern Tier, and the Florida Seabase (although it was for sailing, not SCUBA). I find the BSA High Adventure Bases to be expensive for what they offer and you often have to make reservations 2 years in advance. I got my original SCUBA certification in the Virgin Islands, MUCH warmer water! Roger Pihlaja S/V Dynamic Equilibrium Sent from my iPad > On Jun 28, 2020, at 3:09 PM, Hank wrote: > > Very nice! My son did Philmont and then we both did Seabase in Florida. I > got my open water certification in the Philippines so slightly warmer temps > that what you were dealing with, lol! > > Hank > >> On Sun, Jun 28, 2020 at 2:36 PM ROGER PIHLAJA wrote: >> >> Hi All, >> >> With Sanford Lake reduced to a small trickle of its former self, I have to >> find my on-the water fun elsewhere. In August, I?m leading my Boy Scout >> Troop on a High Adventure Shipwreck SCUBA Diving Trip to the Straits of >> Mackinac Shipwreck Preserve. We?ve been working all Winter/Spring to get >> our SCUBA certification. The final step was to do 4 open water >> certification dives as a sort of hands-on final exam. We did our 4 open >> water certification dives at Higgins Lake last week Thursday & Friday. The >> attachments are some photos of the event. Higgins Lake is very deep and >> cold, hence the full wetsuits, gloves, and hoods. >> >> Roger Pihlaja >> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium >> >> [cid:image001.jpg at 01D64D59.77DE6520] >> >> [cid:image002.jpg at 01D64D59.77DE6520] >> >> [cid:image004.jpg at 01D64D59.77DE6520] >> >> Sent from Mail for >> Windows 10 >> >> >> -------------- next part -------------- >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >> Name: ACA34E305CDE4D6A83071DB0984586CC.jpg >> Type: image/jpeg >> Size: 126631 bytes >> Desc: ACA34E305CDE4D6A83071DB0984586CC.jpg >> URL: < >> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200628/55f66bec/attachment.jpg >>> >> -------------- next part -------------- >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >> Name: BAC95968AFCC494E980E56EB91E49F4C.jpg >> Type: image/jpeg >> Size: 99595 bytes >> Desc: BAC95968AFCC494E980E56EB91E49F4C.jpg >> URL: < >> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200628/55f66bec/attachment-0001.jpg >>> >> -------------- next part -------------- >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >> Name: E026F1EE079745718BB29E06D30BEA02.jpg >> Type: image/jpeg >> Size: 80294 bytes >> Desc: E026F1EE079745718BB29E06D30BEA02.jpg >> URL: < >> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200628/55f66bec/attachment-0002.jpg >>> >> From sea20 at verizon.net Sun Jun 28 15:54:53 2020 From: sea20 at verizon.net (Scott Andrews) Date: Sun, 28 Jun 2020 15:54:53 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] T767 SCUBA High Adventure Trip Open Water Certification Dives In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8A37AAD7-CCAE-45BC-9CA3-18C6727175C6@verizon.net> Very nice, I was unable to get our troop beyond some water craft merit badges. Scott A. Sent from my iPhone > On Jun 28, 2020, at 3:31 PM, Roger Pihlaja Home wrote: > > ?Hank, > > We worked with a local SCUBA diving outfitter that I?ve used before. Because it was for the Boy Scouts, he gave us a tremendous package deal on the lessons, personal gear, and dive charter. We were able to offer 4 days of shipwreck diving in the Straits of Mackinac (tip of the ?mitten? where Lake Michigan and Lake Huron meet) for ~1/4 the cost of a trip to the BSA?s Florida Seabase. Plus, no waiting list! I?ve been to Philmont, the Northern Tier, and the Florida Seabase (although it was for sailing, not SCUBA). I find the BSA High Adventure Bases to be expensive for what they offer and you often have to make reservations 2 years in advance. > > I got my original SCUBA certification in the Virgin Islands, MUCH warmer water! > > Roger Pihlaja > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium > > Sent from my iPad > >> On Jun 28, 2020, at 3:09 PM, Hank wrote: >> >> Very nice! My son did Philmont and then we both did Seabase in Florida. I >> got my open water certification in the Philippines so slightly warmer temps >> that what you were dealing with, lol! >> >> Hank >> >>>> On Sun, Jun 28, 2020 at 2:36 PM ROGER PIHLAJA wrote: >>> >>> Hi All, >>> >>> With Sanford Lake reduced to a small trickle of its former self, I have to >>> find my on-the water fun elsewhere. In August, I?m leading my Boy Scout >>> Troop on a High Adventure Shipwreck SCUBA Diving Trip to the Straits of >>> Mackinac Shipwreck Preserve. We?ve been working all Winter/Spring to get >>> our SCUBA certification. The final step was to do 4 open water >>> certification dives as a sort of hands-on final exam. We did our 4 open >>> water certification dives at Higgins Lake last week Thursday & Friday. The >>> attachments are some photos of the event. Higgins Lake is very deep and >>> cold, hence the full wetsuits, gloves, and hoods. >>> >>> Roger Pihlaja >>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium >>> >>> [cid:image001.jpg at 01D64D59.77DE6520] >>> >>> [cid:image002.jpg at 01D64D59.77DE6520] >>> >>> [cid:image004.jpg at 01D64D59.77DE6520] >>> >>> Sent from Mail for >>> Windows 10 >>> >>> >>> -------------- next part -------------- >>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >>> Name: ACA34E305CDE4D6A83071DB0984586CC.jpg >>> Type: image/jpeg >>> Size: 126631 bytes >>> Desc: ACA34E305CDE4D6A83071DB0984586CC.jpg >>> URL: < >>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200628/55f66bec/attachment.jpg >>>> >>> -------------- next part -------------- >>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >>> Name: BAC95968AFCC494E980E56EB91E49F4C.jpg >>> Type: image/jpeg >>> Size: 99595 bytes >>> Desc: BAC95968AFCC494E980E56EB91E49F4C.jpg >>> URL: < >>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200628/55f66bec/attachment-0001.jpg >>>> >>> -------------- next part -------------- >>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >>> Name: E026F1EE079745718BB29E06D30BEA02.jpg >>> Type: image/jpeg >>> Size: 80294 bytes >>> Desc: E026F1EE079745718BB29E06D30BEA02.jpg >>> URL: < >>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200628/55f66bec/attachment-0002.jpg >>>> >>> From mtroy at atlanticbb.net Mon Jun 29 01:33:58 2020 From: mtroy at atlanticbb.net (Mary Lou Troy) Date: Mon, 29 Jun 2020 01:33:58 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] =?utf-8?b?TW90b3IgbGlmdCDigJxiZWFyaW5nc+KAnT8=?= In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi Olivier, I'm trying to remember the details of exactly how the mount worked. We didn't pay it much attention though we may have added a stop at the bottom. I know the design kept evolving after we bought the boat in 1998 and as the boat was a 1991, it may have been a design from a previous year. I wonder how long that plastic had been fatigued and if that had something to do with your difficulties with the mount?? I don't remember a whole lot of difficulty raising and lowering the motor and I'm not the strongest or most athletic sort. In spite of that, I did most of the raising and lowering. it did take moving close to the mount and raising it hand over hand. I guess it would have been more problematic if we were not always sailing with two people but it almost always went quickly. It did sometime take a nudge on the top of the motor to get it going down. Hope you find a quick fix and glad you are getting out a lot. Mary Lou On 6/28/2020 1:16 PM, Olivier Hecht wrote: > Thanks Roger. That is a lot different and looks like an upgrade! I wish > I?d taken more pictures before leaving the boat at the yard again...I can > do that the next time I?m there. Basically though, there are four round > protrusions on the movable carriage in the mount at the four corners of > that carriage. Those are the parts that fit inside the plastic bearings I?m > trying to replace. BTW, those protrusions themselves look pretty work > themselves so upgrading the carriage might be the best long-term idea. > Raising and lowering the motor has always been very tough with this design. > One of the many reasons I?m so hesitant to use the motor! Olivier > > On Sun, Jun 28, 2020 at 11:05 AM ROGER PIHLAJA > wrote: > >> Olivier, >> >> I?ve attached a close-up photo of the linear bearing on my GBI motor >> mount. Note that it doesn?t seem at all like yours. My linear bearings >> are T-shaped pieces of glass-filled PTFE that ride in 6061 T6 Aluminum >> C-Channels. This design of linear bearing has a huge bearing surface area, >> so the wear rate is minimal. The design is self flushing to keep abrasive >> debris out of the bearing. Plus, the bearings can be easily swapped out >> W/O disassembling the whole motor mount when replacement is required after >> many, many service hours. I don?t know when GBI changed the design; but, >> it might be helpful if you provided a few more photos of your motor mount. >> >> Also, it might be helpful if you make a few measurements of the >> ID/OD/Length of your bearings. They might be standard plastic pipe sizes >> and easily sourced from Grainger, McMaster-Carr, or United States Plastics >> Corp. >> >> Roger Pihlaja >> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium >> >> [cid:image003.jpg at 01D64D3C.17C68130] >> >> Sent from Mail for >> Windows 10 >> >> From: Olivier Hecht >> Sent: Saturday, June 27, 2020 9:01 PM >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List >> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Motor lift ?bearings?? >> >> Did 50 miles on Fretless from 3 pm Friday to 6 pm today, with a nice break >> at a marina from 7 pm to 8 am! >> >> An unpleasant part of the experience was dealing with the motor lift >> getting crooked in the tracks because two of the four plastic ?bearings? >> the mount rides on were worn out/missing. See pics. I sent a note to Stan >> but also wanted to ask here if anyone has replaced these. Any tips on >> replacing them without dismounting the motor if that?s possible? The side >> tracks appear to come off and I was able to retrieve one of the bearings >> that was loose in the track after parking the it on its trailer. Getting >> new ones in will probably be harder though... >> >> Thanks. Olivier >> -------------- next part -------------- >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >> Name: IMG_0124.jpg >> Type: image/jpg >> Size: 2110648 bytes >> Desc: not available >> URL: < >> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200627/b841e8e0/attachment.jpg >> -------------- next part -------------- >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >> Name: IMG_0125.jpg >> Type: image/jpg >> Size: 614559 bytes >> Desc: not available >> URL: < >> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200627/b841e8e0/attachment-0001.jpg >> -------------- next part -------------- >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >> Name: BF18051D5E90405A940F1CBA91227825.jpg >> Type: image/jpeg >> Size: 174549 bytes >> Desc: BF18051D5E90405A940F1CBA91227825.jpg >> URL: < >> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200628/24d54a79/attachment.jpg -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus From ric at stottarchitecture.com Mon Jun 29 07:09:32 2020 From: ric at stottarchitecture.com (Ric Stott) Date: Mon, 29 Jun 2020 07:09:32 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] =?utf-8?b?TW90b3IgbGlmdCDigJxiZWFyaW5nc+KAnT8=?= In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8B9F422D-FDAA-4BA9-AE9B-3ADDD62169C8@stottarchitecture.com> Oliver and Roger A few more pics would be great. Dadventure motor mount report. I use a Mac and Nabble kicks off my attachments but if I could - I would show you my original mount broken which left my Yamaha 8 underwater. I bought a West Marine mount to use until I can rebuild and perhaps re-engineer my GB system. I also switched out the Yamaha (to receive a new carb, new starter alternator, wiring harness and new water pump impeller) for an old 2 cycle Merc I have. I don?t like the 16? throw west marine parallelogram mount even though it eliminates the need to tilt the motor. With the traveler in place, dealing with the motor is a PITA. It?s easy to remove, but not if you happen to be sailing, which of course it what you are supposed to be doing. I?ll let y?all know what happens next. Ric Dadventure HBNY Sent from my iPhone >> On Jun 29, 2020, at 1:34 AM, Mary Lou Troy wrote: > ?Hi Olivier, > I'm trying to remember the details of exactly how the mount worked. We didn't pay it much attention though we may have added a stop at the bottom. I know the design kept evolving after we bought the boat in 1998 and as the boat was a 1991, it may have been a design from a previous year. > > I wonder how long that plastic had been fatigued and if that had something to do with your difficulties with the mount? I don't remember a whole lot of difficulty raising and lowering the motor and I'm not the strongest or most athletic sort. In spite of that, I did most of the raising and lowering. it did take moving close to the mount and raising it hand over hand. I guess it would have been more problematic if we were not always sailing with two people but it almost always went quickly. It did sometime take a nudge on the top of the motor to get it going down. > > Hope you find a quick fix and glad you are getting out a lot. > > Mary Lou > >> On 6/28/2020 1:16 PM, Olivier Hecht wrote: >> Thanks Roger. That is a lot different and looks like an upgrade! I wish >> I?d taken more pictures before leaving the boat at the yard again...I can >> do that the next time I?m there. Basically though, there are four round >> protrusions on the movable carriage in the mount at the four corners of >> that carriage. Those are the parts that fit inside the plastic bearings I?m >> trying to replace. BTW, those protrusions themselves look pretty work >> themselves so upgrading the carriage might be the best long-term idea. >> Raising and lowering the motor has always been very tough with this design. >> One of the many reasons I?m so hesitant to use the motor! Olivier >> >> On Sun, Jun 28, 2020 at 11:05 AM ROGER PIHLAJA >> wrote: >> >>> Olivier, >>> I?ve attached a close-up photo of the linear bearing on my GBI motor >>> mount. Note that it doesn?t seem at all like yours. My linear bearings >>> are T-shaped pieces of glass-filled PTFE that ride in 6061 T6 Aluminum >>> C-Channels. This design of linear bearing has a huge bearing surface area, >>> so the wear rate is minimal. The design is self flushing to keep abrasive >>> debris out of the bearing. Plus, the bearings can be easily swapped out >>> W/O disassembling the whole motor mount when replacement is required after >>> many, many service hours. I don?t know when GBI changed the design; but, >>> it might be helpful if you provided a few more photos of your motor mount. >>> Also, it might be helpful if you make a few measurements of the >>> ID/OD/Length of your bearings. They might be standard plastic pipe sizes >>> and easily sourced from Grainger, McMaster-Carr, or United States Plastics >>> Corp. >>> Roger Pihlaja >>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium >>> [cid:image003.jpg at 01D64D3C.17C68130] >>> Sent from Mail for >>> Windows 10 >>> From: Olivier Hecht >>> Sent: Saturday, June 27, 2020 9:01 PM >>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List >>> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Motor lift ?bearings?? >>> Did 50 miles on Fretless from 3 pm Friday to 6 pm today, with a nice break >>> at a marina from 7 pm to 8 am! >>> An unpleasant part of the experience was dealing with the motor lift >>> getting crooked in the tracks because two of the four plastic ?bearings? >>> the mount rides on were worn out/missing. See pics. I sent a note to Stan >>> but also wanted to ask here if anyone has replaced these. Any tips on >>> replacing them without dismounting the motor if that?s possible? The side >>> tracks appear to come off and I was able to retrieve one of the bearings >>> that was loose in the track after parking the it on its trailer. Getting >>> new ones in will probably be harder though... >>> Thanks. Olivier >>> -------------- next part -------------- >>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >>> Name: IMG_0124.jpg >>> Type: image/jpg >>> Size: 2110648 bytes >>> Desc: not available >>> URL: < >>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200627/b841e8e0/attachment.jpg >>> -------------- next part -------------- >>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >>> Name: IMG_0125.jpg >>> Type: image/jpg >>> Size: 614559 bytes >>> Desc: not available >>> URL: < >>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200627/b841e8e0/attachment-0001.jpg >>> -------------- next part -------------- >>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >>> Name: BF18051D5E90405A940F1CBA91227825.jpg >>> Type: image/jpeg >>> Size: 174549 bytes >>> Desc: BF18051D5E90405A940F1CBA91227825.jpg >>> URL: < >>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200628/24d54a79/attachment.jpg > > > -- > This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. > https://www.avast.com/antivirus From ric at stottarchitecture.com Mon Jun 29 08:26:31 2020 From: ric at stottarchitecture.com (Richard Stott) Date: Mon, 29 Jun 2020 08:26:31 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] =?utf-8?b?TW90b3IgbGlmdCDigJxiZWFyaW5nc+KAnT8=?= In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1A129508-6B2A-4857-888A-69182525769F@stottarchitecture.com> Does anyone use a 20? long shaft, considered a ?Long Shaft? Most, including both my motors are 25? shaft. (extra long) If there are any Rhodes with 20? motor shafts, I would like to see the motor mount for such. Brt to all Be safe Ric sv Dadventure HBNY Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP www.stottarchitecture.com Office 631-283-1777 Cell 516-965-3164 > On Jun 29, 2020, at 1:33 AM, Mary Lou Troy wrote: > > Hi Olivier, > I'm trying to remember the details of exactly how the mount worked. We didn't pay it much attention though we may have added a stop at the bottom. I know the design kept evolving after we bought the boat in 1998 and as the boat was a 1991, it may have been a design from a previous year. > > I wonder how long that plastic had been fatigued and if that had something to do with your difficulties with the mount? I don't remember a whole lot of difficulty raising and lowering the motor and I'm not the strongest or most athletic sort. In spite of that, I did most of the raising and lowering. it did take moving close to the mount and raising it hand over hand. I guess it would have been more problematic if we were not always sailing with two people but it almost always went quickly. It did sometime take a nudge on the top of the motor to get it going down. > > Hope you find a quick fix and glad you are getting out a lot. > > Mary Lou > > On 6/28/2020 1:16 PM, Olivier Hecht wrote: >> Thanks Roger. That is a lot different and looks like an upgrade! I wish >> I?d taken more pictures before leaving the boat at the yard again...I can >> do that the next time I?m there. Basically though, there are four round >> protrusions on the movable carriage in the mount at the four corners of >> that carriage. Those are the parts that fit inside the plastic bearings I?m >> trying to replace. BTW, those protrusions themselves look pretty work >> themselves so upgrading the carriage might be the best long-term idea. >> Raising and lowering the motor has always been very tough with this design. >> One of the many reasons I?m so hesitant to use the motor! Olivier >> >> On Sun, Jun 28, 2020 at 11:05 AM ROGER PIHLAJA >> wrote: >> >>> Olivier, >>> >>> I?ve attached a close-up photo of the linear bearing on my GBI motor >>> mount. Note that it doesn?t seem at all like yours. My linear bearings >>> are T-shaped pieces of glass-filled PTFE that ride in 6061 T6 Aluminum >>> C-Channels. This design of linear bearing has a huge bearing surface area, >>> so the wear rate is minimal. The design is self flushing to keep abrasive >>> debris out of the bearing. Plus, the bearings can be easily swapped out >>> W/O disassembling the whole motor mount when replacement is required after >>> many, many service hours. I don?t know when GBI changed the design; but, >>> it might be helpful if you provided a few more photos of your motor mount. >>> >>> Also, it might be helpful if you make a few measurements of the >>> ID/OD/Length of your bearings. They might be standard plastic pipe sizes >>> and easily sourced from Grainger, McMaster-Carr, or United States Plastics >>> Corp. >>> >>> Roger Pihlaja >>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium >>> >>> [cid:image003.jpg at 01D64D3C.17C68130] >>> >>> Sent from Mail for >>> Windows 10 >>> >>> From: Olivier Hecht >>> Sent: Saturday, June 27, 2020 9:01 PM >>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List >>> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Motor lift ?bearings?? >>> >>> Did 50 miles on Fretless from 3 pm Friday to 6 pm today, with a nice break >>> at a marina from 7 pm to 8 am! >>> >>> An unpleasant part of the experience was dealing with the motor lift >>> getting crooked in the tracks because two of the four plastic ?bearings? >>> the mount rides on were worn out/missing. See pics. I sent a note to Stan >>> but also wanted to ask here if anyone has replaced these. Any tips on >>> replacing them without dismounting the motor if that?s possible? The side >>> tracks appear to come off and I was able to retrieve one of the bearings >>> that was loose in the track after parking the it on its trailer. Getting >>> new ones in will probably be harder though... >>> >>> Thanks. Olivier >>> -------------- next part -------------- >>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >>> Name: IMG_0124.jpg >>> Type: image/jpg >>> Size: 2110648 bytes >>> Desc: not available >>> URL: < >>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200627/b841e8e0/attachment.jpg >>> -------------- next part -------------- >>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >>> Name: IMG_0125.jpg >>> Type: image/jpg >>> Size: 614559 bytes >>> Desc: not available >>> URL: < >>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200627/b841e8e0/attachment-0001.jpg >>> -------------- next part -------------- >>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >>> Name: BF18051D5E90405A940F1CBA91227825.jpg >>> Type: image/jpeg >>> Size: 174549 bytes >>> Desc: BF18051D5E90405A940F1CBA91227825.jpg >>> URL: < >>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200628/24d54a79/attachment.jpg > > > -- > This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. > https://www.avast.com/antivirus > From ric at stottarchitecture.com Mon Jun 29 08:41:25 2020 From: ric at stottarchitecture.com (Richard Stott) Date: Mon, 29 Jun 2020 08:41:25 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] T767 SCUBA High Adventure Trip Open Water Certification Dives In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Kudos! Sailing and Scouting are the two activities in my life that taught me more than any other - about how to survive and thrive. As a kid I went to independent Troop organized camps with my Troop to upstate new your and Algonquin Park in Canada for 100 mile Canoe trip - when I was 10. We went on a weekend camp trip once per month, year ?round. Philmont was also a highlight and I fell in love with a girl from Nebraska that I met on the train coming home - actually she spotted me and asked to be introduced. It must have been the uniform! Our pen-pal relationship resulted in a few visits between NY and Nebraska and dating, but we went in different directions after high School. Anyway - good work Hank. Ric Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP www.stottarchitecture.com Office 631-283-1777 Cell 516-965-3164 > On Jun 28, 2020, at 3:09 PM, Hank wrote: > > Very nice! My son did Philmont and then we both did Seabase in Florida. I > got my open water certification in the Philippines so slightly warmer temps > that what you were dealing with, lol! > > Hank > > On Sun, Jun 28, 2020 at 2:36 PM ROGER PIHLAJA wrote: > >> Hi All, >> >> With Sanford Lake reduced to a small trickle of its former self, I have to >> find my on-the water fun elsewhere. In August, I?m leading my Boy Scout >> Troop on a High Adventure Shipwreck SCUBA Diving Trip to the Straits of >> Mackinac Shipwreck Preserve. We?ve been working all Winter/Spring to get >> our SCUBA certification. The final step was to do 4 open water >> certification dives as a sort of hands-on final exam. We did our 4 open >> water certification dives at Higgins Lake last week Thursday & Friday. The >> attachments are some photos of the event. Higgins Lake is very deep and >> cold, hence the full wetsuits, gloves, and hoods. >> >> Roger Pihlaja >> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium >> >> [cid:image001.jpg at 01D64D59.77DE6520] >> >> [cid:image002.jpg at 01D64D59.77DE6520] >> >> [cid:image004.jpg at 01D64D59.77DE6520] >> >> Sent from Mail for >> Windows 10 >> >> >> -------------- next part -------------- >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >> Name: ACA34E305CDE4D6A83071DB0984586CC.jpg >> Type: image/jpeg >> Size: 126631 bytes >> Desc: ACA34E305CDE4D6A83071DB0984586CC.jpg >> URL: < >> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200628/55f66bec/attachment.jpg >>> >> -------------- next part -------------- >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >> Name: BAC95968AFCC494E980E56EB91E49F4C.jpg >> Type: image/jpeg >> Size: 99595 bytes >> Desc: BAC95968AFCC494E980E56EB91E49F4C.jpg >> URL: < >> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200628/55f66bec/attachment-0001.jpg >>> >> -------------- next part -------------- >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >> Name: E026F1EE079745718BB29E06D30BEA02.jpg >> Type: image/jpeg >> Size: 80294 bytes >> Desc: E026F1EE079745718BB29E06D30BEA02.jpg >> URL: < >> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200628/55f66bec/attachment-0002.jpg >>> >> From hnw555 at gmail.com Mon Jun 29 08:56:34 2020 From: hnw555 at gmail.com (Hank) Date: Mon, 29 Jun 2020 08:56:34 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] T767 SCUBA High Adventure Trip Open Water Certification Dives In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Thanks, but actually it was Roger who did all of the work! On Mon, Jun 29, 2020 at 8:41 AM Richard Stott wrote: > Kudos! > Sailing and Scouting are the two activities in my life that taught me more > than any other - about how to survive and thrive. > As a kid I went to independent Troop organized camps with my Troop to > upstate new your and Algonquin Park in Canada for 100 mile Canoe trip - > when I was 10. > We went on a weekend camp trip once per month, year ?round. > Philmont was also a highlight and I fell in love with a girl from Nebraska > that I met on the train coming home - actually she spotted me and asked to > be introduced. > It must have been the uniform! > Our pen-pal relationship resulted in a few visits between NY and Nebraska > and dating, but we went in different directions after high School. > Anyway - good work Hank. > Ric > > Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP > www.stottarchitecture.com > Office 631-283-1777 > Cell 516-965-3164 > > > > > > > On Jun 28, 2020, at 3:09 PM, Hank wrote: > > > > Very nice! My son did Philmont and then we both did Seabase in > Florida. I > > got my open water certification in the Philippines so slightly warmer > temps > > that what you were dealing with, lol! > > > > Hank > > > > On Sun, Jun 28, 2020 at 2:36 PM ROGER PIHLAJA > wrote: > > > >> Hi All, > >> > >> With Sanford Lake reduced to a small trickle of its former self, I have > to > >> find my on-the water fun elsewhere. In August, I?m leading my Boy Scout > >> Troop on a High Adventure Shipwreck SCUBA Diving Trip to the Straits of > >> Mackinac Shipwreck Preserve. We?ve been working all Winter/Spring to > get > >> our SCUBA certification. The final step was to do 4 open water > >> certification dives as a sort of hands-on final exam. We did our 4 open > >> water certification dives at Higgins Lake last week Thursday & Friday. > The > >> attachments are some photos of the event. Higgins Lake is very deep and > >> cold, hence the full wetsuits, gloves, and hoods. > >> > >> Roger Pihlaja > >> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium > >> > >> [cid:image001.jpg at 01D64D59.77DE6520] > >> > >> [cid:image002.jpg at 01D64D59.77DE6520] > >> > >> [cid:image004.jpg at 01D64D59.77DE6520] > >> > >> Sent from Mail for > >> Windows 10 > >> > >> > >> -------------- next part -------------- > >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > >> Name: ACA34E305CDE4D6A83071DB0984586CC.jpg > >> Type: image/jpeg > >> Size: 126631 bytes > >> Desc: ACA34E305CDE4D6A83071DB0984586CC.jpg > >> URL: < > >> > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200628/55f66bec/attachment.jpg > >>> > >> -------------- next part -------------- > >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > >> Name: BAC95968AFCC494E980E56EB91E49F4C.jpg > >> Type: image/jpeg > >> Size: 99595 bytes > >> Desc: BAC95968AFCC494E980E56EB91E49F4C.jpg > >> URL: < > >> > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200628/55f66bec/attachment-0001.jpg > >>> > >> -------------- next part -------------- > >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > >> Name: E026F1EE079745718BB29E06D30BEA02.jpg > >> Type: image/jpeg > >> Size: 80294 bytes > >> Desc: E026F1EE079745718BB29E06D30BEA02.jpg > >> URL: < > >> > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200628/55f66bec/attachment-0002.jpg > >>> > >> > > From hnw555 at gmail.com Mon Jun 29 08:58:34 2020 From: hnw555 at gmail.com (Hank) Date: Mon, 29 Jun 2020 08:58:34 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] T767 SCUBA High Adventure Trip Open Water Certification Dives In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi Roger, We also did sailing at Seabase and it definitely was not a cheap trip, either that or Philmont. I didn't go to Philmont as my back cannot handle that many days of backpacking. I've never actually dived in colder water as all my dives have either been in the Philippines, Mexico, The Caribbean, or Australia. Hank On Sun, Jun 28, 2020 at 3:31 PM Roger Pihlaja Home wrote: > Hank, > > We worked with a local SCUBA diving outfitter that I?ve used before. > Because it was for the Boy Scouts, he gave us a tremendous package deal on > the lessons, personal gear, and dive charter. We were able to offer 4 days > of shipwreck diving in the Straits of Mackinac (tip of the ?mitten? where > Lake Michigan and Lake Huron meet) for ~1/4 the cost of a trip to the BSA?s > Florida Seabase. Plus, no waiting list! I?ve been to Philmont, the > Northern Tier, and the Florida Seabase (although it was for sailing, not > SCUBA). I find the BSA High Adventure Bases to be expensive for what they > offer and you often have to make reservations 2 years in advance. > > I got my original SCUBA certification in the Virgin Islands, MUCH warmer > water! > > Roger Pihlaja > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium > > Sent from my iPad > > > On Jun 28, 2020, at 3:09 PM, Hank wrote: > > > > Very nice! My son did Philmont and then we both did Seabase in > Florida. I > > got my open water certification in the Philippines so slightly warmer > temps > > that what you were dealing with, lol! > > > > Hank > > > >> On Sun, Jun 28, 2020 at 2:36 PM ROGER PIHLAJA > wrote: > >> > >> Hi All, > >> > >> With Sanford Lake reduced to a small trickle of its former self, I have > to > >> find my on-the water fun elsewhere. In August, I?m leading my Boy Scout > >> Troop on a High Adventure Shipwreck SCUBA Diving Trip to the Straits of > >> Mackinac Shipwreck Preserve. We?ve been working all Winter/Spring to > get > >> our SCUBA certification. The final step was to do 4 open water > >> certification dives as a sort of hands-on final exam. We did our 4 open > >> water certification dives at Higgins Lake last week Thursday & Friday. > The > >> attachments are some photos of the event. Higgins Lake is very deep and > >> cold, hence the full wetsuits, gloves, and hoods. > >> > >> Roger Pihlaja > >> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium > >> > >> [cid:image001.jpg at 01D64D59.77DE6520] > >> > >> [cid:image002.jpg at 01D64D59.77DE6520] > >> > >> [cid:image004.jpg at 01D64D59.77DE6520] > >> > >> Sent from Mail for > >> Windows 10 > >> > >> > >> -------------- next part -------------- > >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > >> Name: ACA34E305CDE4D6A83071DB0984586CC.jpg > >> Type: image/jpeg > >> Size: 126631 bytes > >> Desc: ACA34E305CDE4D6A83071DB0984586CC.jpg > >> URL: < > >> > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200628/55f66bec/attachment.jpg > >>> > >> -------------- next part -------------- > >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > >> Name: BAC95968AFCC494E980E56EB91E49F4C.jpg > >> Type: image/jpeg > >> Size: 99595 bytes > >> Desc: BAC95968AFCC494E980E56EB91E49F4C.jpg > >> URL: < > >> > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200628/55f66bec/attachment-0001.jpg > >>> > >> -------------- next part -------------- > >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > >> Name: E026F1EE079745718BB29E06D30BEA02.jpg > >> Type: image/jpeg > >> Size: 80294 bytes > >> Desc: E026F1EE079745718BB29E06D30BEA02.jpg > >> URL: < > >> > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200628/55f66bec/attachment-0002.jpg > >>> > >> > From keywestseccorp at verizon.net Mon Jun 29 10:05:04 2020 From: keywestseccorp at verizon.net (Mark West) Date: Mon, 29 Jun 2020 14:05:04 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] =?utf-8?b?TW90b3IgbGlmdCDigJxiZWFyaW5nc+KAnT8=?= In-Reply-To: <1A129508-6B2A-4857-888A-69182525769F@stottarchitecture.com> References: <1A129508-6B2A-4857-888A-69182525769F@stottarchitecture.com> Message-ID: <230612412.3700567.1593439504133@mail.yahoo.com> WE have an extra long XL Honda, when up and tilted (factory electric lift) doesn't drag but dam close when healed. Goes way down deep in water on some larger roller waves it doesn't break surface. I think the long shaft would be good also,? we have tiller steer, motor has to be low enough to attach. have spare Long shaft will try it one day I think it might be better? fit? ? MARK? ? -----Original Message----- From: Richard Stott To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Sent: Mon, Jun 29, 2020 8:26 am Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Motor lift ?bearings?? Does anyone use a 20? long shaft, considered a ?Long Shaft? Most, including both my motors are 25? shaft. (extra long) If there are any Rhodes with 20? motor shafts, I would like to see the motor mount for such. Brt to all Be safe Ric sv Dadventure HBNY Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP www.stottarchitecture.com Office??? 631-283-1777 Cell??? ??? 516-965-3164 > On Jun 29, 2020, at 1:33 AM, Mary Lou Troy wrote: > > Hi Olivier, > I'm trying to remember the details of exactly how the mount worked. We didn't pay it much attention though we may have added a stop at the bottom. I know the design kept evolving after we bought the boat in 1998 and as the boat was a 1991, it may have been a design from a previous year. > > I wonder how long that plastic had been fatigued and if that had something to do with your difficulties with the mount?? I don't remember a whole lot of difficulty raising and lowering the motor and I'm not the strongest or most athletic sort. In spite of that, I did most of the raising and lowering. it did take moving close to the mount and raising it hand over hand. I guess it would have been more problematic if we were not always sailing with two people but it almost always went quickly. It did sometime take a nudge on the top of the motor to get it going down. > > Hope you find a quick fix and glad you are getting out a lot. > > Mary Lou > > On 6/28/2020 1:16 PM, Olivier Hecht wrote: >> Thanks Roger. That is a lot different and looks like an upgrade!? I wish >> I?d taken more pictures before leaving the boat at the yard again...I can >> do that the next time I?m there. Basically though, there are four round >> protrusions on the movable carriage in the mount at the four corners of >> that carriage. Those are the parts that fit inside the plastic bearings I?m >> trying to replace. BTW, those protrusions themselves look pretty work >> themselves so upgrading the carriage might be the best long-term idea. >> Raising and lowering the motor has always been very tough with this design. >> One of the many reasons I?m so hesitant to use the motor! Olivier >> >> On Sun, Jun 28, 2020 at 11:05 AM ROGER PIHLAJA >> wrote: >> >>> Olivier, >>> >>> I?ve attached a close-up photo of the linear bearing on my GBI motor >>> mount.? Note that it doesn?t seem at all like yours.? My linear bearings >>> are T-shaped pieces of glass-filled PTFE that ride in 6061 T6 Aluminum >>> C-Channels.? This design of linear bearing has a huge bearing surface area, >>> so the wear rate is minimal.? The design is self flushing to keep abrasive >>> debris out of the bearing.? Plus, the bearings can be easily swapped out >>> W/O disassembling the whole motor mount when replacement is required after >>> many, many service hours.? I don?t know when GBI changed the design; but, >>> it might be helpful if you provided a few more photos of your motor mount. >>> >>> Also, it might be helpful if you make a few measurements of the >>> ID/OD/Length of your bearings.? They might be standard plastic pipe sizes >>> and easily sourced from Grainger, McMaster-Carr, or United States Plastics >>> Corp. >>> >>> Roger Pihlaja >>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium >>> >>> [cid:image003.jpg at 01D64D3C.17C68130] >>> >>> Sent from Mail for >>> Windows 10 >>> >>> From: Olivier Hecht >>> Sent: Saturday, June 27, 2020 9:01 PM >>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List >>> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Motor lift ?bearings?? >>> >>> Did 50 miles on Fretless from 3 pm Friday to 6 pm today, with a nice break >>> at a marina from 7 pm to 8 am! >>> >>> An unpleasant part of the experience was dealing with the motor lift >>> getting crooked in the tracks because two of the four plastic ?bearings? >>> the mount rides on were worn out/missing. See pics. I sent a note to Stan >>> but also wanted to ask here if anyone has replaced these. Any tips on >>> replacing them without dismounting the motor if that?s possible?? The side >>> tracks appear to come off and I was able to retrieve one of the bearings >>> that was loose in the track after parking the? it on its trailer. Getting >>> new ones in will probably be harder though... >>> >>> Thanks. Olivier >>> -------------- next part -------------- >>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >>> Name: IMG_0124.jpg >>> Type: image/jpg >>> Size: 2110648 bytes >>> Desc: not available >>> URL: < >>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200627/b841e8e0/attachment.jpg >>> -------------- next part -------------- >>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >>> Name: IMG_0125.jpg >>> Type: image/jpg >>> Size: 614559 bytes >>> Desc: not available >>> URL: < >>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200627/b841e8e0/attachment-0001.jpg >>> -------------- next part -------------- >>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >>> Name: BF18051D5E90405A940F1CBA91227825.jpg >>> Type: image/jpeg >>> Size: 174549 bytes >>> Desc: BF18051D5E90405A940F1CBA91227825.jpg >>> URL: < >>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200628/24d54a79/attachment.jpg > > > -- > This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. > https://www.avast.com/antivirus > From stevenalm at gmail.com Mon Jun 29 11:41:47 2020 From: stevenalm at gmail.com (Steven Alm) Date: Mon, 29 Jun 2020 10:41:47 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Cabin Top Hatch Leak Message-ID: Well, hello sailor! I don't think I've posted here since we lost our friend Rummy. Still miss him. Wherever he is I hope he's enjoying a Mt. Gay/diet coke. There have been a lot of changes in my world since then but I still sail Fandango. I bought the boat and joined this list 25 years ago - wow! I'm retired and live in Wisconsin now (Rummy is laughing and insisting I'm now a Packers fan. I'm not!). I keep my boat slipped at a marina on Lake Pepin, which is really The Mississippi River where it widens between WI and MN. It's about 2 miles wide and 20 miles long so it's a nice big stretch of sailing water. There's almost no current and it's known as the birthplace of water skiing, and home to the fabled sea monster "Peppie". I'm very well and happy, thank you. I have a very minor problem and thought it'd be a good excuse to drop in and say hi. I'm a little rusty at searching the archives and didn't find it there. The hatch on the port side cabin top leaks a little. I'm wondering if anyone has replaced the foam gasket around the opening or has any other fixes. I thought of just sticking a dime or something up in the latches on the inside to make it close a little tighter but that would probably loosen the latches permanently and then dimes would have to become part of my onboard gear forever and my checklist is already a novel. Thanks in advance for any suggestions, and looking forward to hearing from some old friends or new ones. -Slim From tavares0947 at gmail.com Mon Jun 29 11:47:27 2020 From: tavares0947 at gmail.com (Todd Tavares) Date: Mon, 29 Jun 2020 11:47:27 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Cabin Top Hatch Leak In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: SLIM!!! Welcome back!! On Mon, Jun 29, 2020, 11:42 Steven Alm wrote: > Well, hello sailor! I don't think I've posted here since we lost our friend > Rummy. Still miss him. Wherever he is I hope he's enjoying a Mt. Gay/diet > coke. > > There have been a lot of changes in my world since then but I still sail > Fandango. I bought the boat and joined this list 25 years ago - wow! I'm > retired and live in Wisconsin now (Rummy is laughing and insisting I'm now > a Packers fan. I'm not!). I keep my boat slipped at a marina on Lake Pepin, > which is really The Mississippi River where it widens between WI and MN. > It's about 2 miles wide and 20 miles long so it's a nice big stretch of > sailing water. There's almost no current and it's known as the birthplace > of water skiing, and home to the fabled sea monster "Peppie". I'm very well > and happy, thank you. > > I have a very minor problem and thought it'd be a good excuse to drop in > and say hi. I'm a little rusty at searching the archives and didn't find it > there. The hatch on the port side cabin top leaks a little. I'm wondering > if anyone has replaced the foam gasket around the opening or has any other > fixes. I thought of just sticking a dime or something up in the latches on > the inside to make it close a little tighter but that would probably loosen > the latches permanently and then dimes would have to become part of my > onboard gear forever and my checklist is already a novel. Thanks in advance > for any suggestions, and looking forward to hearing from some old friends > or new ones. > > -Slim > From rodellner at mac.com Mon Jun 29 12:12:15 2020 From: rodellner at mac.com (Rod Ellner) Date: Mon, 29 Jun 2020 11:12:15 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Cabin Top Hatch Leak In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4D6903A0-80FB-4E23-A3D0-D14F4D98E295@mac.com> Slim??..we drove by Lake City on our way home from SD. Are you on WI or MN side? Rod & Mary > On Jun 29, 2020, at 10:47 AM, Todd Tavares wrote: > > SLIM!!! > > Welcome back!! > > On Mon, Jun 29, 2020, 11:42 Steven Alm wrote: > >> Well, hello sailor! I don't think I've posted here since we lost our friend >> Rummy. Still miss him. Wherever he is I hope he's enjoying a Mt. Gay/diet >> coke. >> >> There have been a lot of changes in my world since then but I still sail >> Fandango. I bought the boat and joined this list 25 years ago - wow! I'm >> retired and live in Wisconsin now (Rummy is laughing and insisting I'm now >> a Packers fan. I'm not!). I keep my boat slipped at a marina on Lake Pepin, >> which is really The Mississippi River where it widens between WI and MN. >> It's about 2 miles wide and 20 miles long so it's a nice big stretch of >> sailing water. There's almost no current and it's known as the birthplace >> of water skiing, and home to the fabled sea monster "Peppie". I'm very well >> and happy, thank you. >> >> I have a very minor problem and thought it'd be a good excuse to drop in >> and say hi. I'm a little rusty at searching the archives and didn't find it >> there. The hatch on the port side cabin top leaks a little. I'm wondering >> if anyone has replaced the foam gasket around the opening or has any other >> fixes. I thought of just sticking a dime or something up in the latches on >> the inside to make it close a little tighter but that would probably loosen >> the latches permanently and then dimes would have to become part of my >> onboard gear forever and my checklist is already a novel. Thanks in advance >> for any suggestions, and looking forward to hearing from some old friends >> or new ones. >> >> -Slim >> From rlowe at vt.edu Mon Jun 29 12:22:23 2020 From: rlowe at vt.edu (Lowe, Rob) Date: Mon, 29 Jun 2020 16:22:23 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Cabin Top Hatch Leak In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Slim, Great to hear from you, it has been quite awhile. I also think of Rummy most every time I read a post from 'da list' . Remember Michael and the decoder ring? I miss those days too. I expect you can just see who made your hatch and what size of gasket you have. Looks like West Marine offers all sort of choices. https://www.westmarine.com/hatch-trim-screen-kits?Nrpp=30&cm_sp=CatCarousel-_-BoatHatch-_-NA Good to hear you are well and still sailing Fandango. Keep those checklists coming, I still use yours for raising and lowering the mast. - Rob Rob Lowe Hatch Trim & Screen Kits | West Marine Shop, read reviews, or ask questions about Hatch Trim & Screen Kits at the official West Marine online store. Since 1968, West Marine has grown to over 250 local stores, with knowledgeable Associates happy to assist. Shop with confidence - get free shipping to home or stores + price match guarantee! www.westmarine.com ________________________________ From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of Steven Alm Sent: Monday, June 29, 2020 11:41 AM To: Rhodes Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Cabin Top Hatch Leak Well, hello sailor! I don't think I've posted here since we lost our friend Rummy. Still miss him. Wherever he is I hope he's enjoying a Mt. Gay/diet coke. There have been a lot of changes in my world since then but I still sail Fandango. I bought the boat and joined this list 25 years ago - wow! I'm retired and live in Wisconsin now (Rummy is laughing and insisting I'm now a Packers fan. I'm not!). I keep my boat slipped at a marina on Lake Pepin, which is really The Mississippi River where it widens between WI and MN. It's about 2 miles wide and 20 miles long so it's a nice big stretch of sailing water. There's almost no current and it's known as the birthplace of water skiing, and home to the fabled sea monster "Peppie". I'm very well and happy, thank you. I have a very minor problem and thought it'd be a good excuse to drop in and say hi. I'm a little rusty at searching the archives and didn't find it there. The hatch on the port side cabin top leaks a little. I'm wondering if anyone has replaced the foam gasket around the opening or has any other fixes. I thought of just sticking a dime or something up in the latches on the inside to make it close a little tighter but that would probably loosen the latches permanently and then dimes would have to become part of my onboard gear forever and my checklist is already a novel. Thanks in advance for any suggestions, and looking forward to hearing from some old friends or new ones. -Slim From stevenalm at gmail.com Mon Jun 29 12:34:25 2020 From: stevenalm at gmail.com (Steven Alm) Date: Mon, 29 Jun 2020 11:34:25 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Cabin Top Hatch Leak In-Reply-To: <4D6903A0-80FB-4E23-A3D0-D14F4D98E295@mac.com> References: <4D6903A0-80FB-4E23-A3D0-D14F4D98E295@mac.com> Message-ID: Maria and I live in Menomonie and the boat's at the marina in the little town of Pepin, WI at the southernmost end of the lake. It's a 40 minute drive from us and our second season there and we like it a lot. In seasons past, we've trailer-sailed and stayed at AirBnB or motels in Lake City, and the marina there is nice, and also at the middle of the lake so it's easier to go out and head either direction, whereas at Pepin you're at the end -- although we've motored down river to Wabasha and back - that's nice too. Note: about five years ago I put in for a mooring at Hudson where you are but never stayed due to some other logistics. Nice to hear from you, Rod and give my best to Mary. On Mon, Jun 29, 2020 at 11:12 AM Rod Ellner via Rhodes22-list < rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote: > Slim??..we drove by Lake City on our way home from SD. Are you on WI or > MN side? > > Rod & Mary > > On Jun 29, 2020, at 10:47 AM, Todd Tavares > wrote: > > > > SLIM!!! > > > > Welcome back!! > > > > On Mon, Jun 29, 2020, 11:42 Steven Alm wrote: > > > >> Well, hello sailor! I don't think I've posted here since we lost our > friend > >> Rummy. Still miss him. Wherever he is I hope he's enjoying a Mt. > Gay/diet > >> coke. > >> > >> There have been a lot of changes in my world since then but I still sail > >> Fandango. I bought the boat and joined this list 25 years ago - wow! I'm > >> retired and live in Wisconsin now (Rummy is laughing and insisting I'm > now > >> a Packers fan. I'm not!). I keep my boat slipped at a marina on Lake > Pepin, > >> which is really The Mississippi River where it widens between WI and MN. > >> It's about 2 miles wide and 20 miles long so it's a nice big stretch of > >> sailing water. There's almost no current and it's known as the > birthplace > >> of water skiing, and home to the fabled sea monster "Peppie". I'm very > well > >> and happy, thank you. > >> > >> I have a very minor problem and thought it'd be a good excuse to drop in > >> and say hi. I'm a little rusty at searching the archives and didn't > find it > >> there. The hatch on the port side cabin top leaks a little. I'm > wondering > >> if anyone has replaced the foam gasket around the opening or has any > other > >> fixes. I thought of just sticking a dime or something up in the latches > on > >> the inside to make it close a little tighter but that would probably > loosen > >> the latches permanently and then dimes would have to become part of my > >> onboard gear forever and my checklist is already a novel. Thanks in > advance > >> for any suggestions, and looking forward to hearing from some old > friends > >> or new ones. > >> > >> -Slim > >> > > From stevenalm at gmail.com Mon Jun 29 12:38:35 2020 From: stevenalm at gmail.com (Steven Alm) Date: Mon, 29 Jun 2020 11:38:35 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Cabin Top Hatch Leak In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi Todd and thank you! On Mon, Jun 29, 2020 at 10:47 AM Todd Tavares wrote: > SLIM!!! > > Welcome back!! > > On Mon, Jun 29, 2020, 11:42 Steven Alm wrote: > > > Well, hello sailor! I don't think I've posted here since we lost our > friend > > Rummy. Still miss him. Wherever he is I hope he's enjoying a Mt. Gay/diet > > coke. > > > > There have been a lot of changes in my world since then but I still sail > > Fandango. I bought the boat and joined this list 25 years ago - wow! I'm > > retired and live in Wisconsin now (Rummy is laughing and insisting I'm > now > > a Packers fan. I'm not!). I keep my boat slipped at a marina on Lake > Pepin, > > which is really The Mississippi River where it widens between WI and MN. > > It's about 2 miles wide and 20 miles long so it's a nice big stretch of > > sailing water. There's almost no current and it's known as the birthplace > > of water skiing, and home to the fabled sea monster "Peppie". I'm very > well > > and happy, thank you. > > > > I have a very minor problem and thought it'd be a good excuse to drop in > > and say hi. I'm a little rusty at searching the archives and didn't find > it > > there. The hatch on the port side cabin top leaks a little. I'm wondering > > if anyone has replaced the foam gasket around the opening or has any > other > > fixes. I thought of just sticking a dime or something up in the latches > on > > the inside to make it close a little tighter but that would probably > loosen > > the latches permanently and then dimes would have to become part of my > > onboard gear forever and my checklist is already a novel. Thanks in > advance > > for any suggestions, and looking forward to hearing from some old friends > > or new ones. > > > > -Slim > > > From stevenalm at gmail.com Mon Jun 29 12:46:14 2020 From: stevenalm at gmail.com (Steven Alm) Date: Mon, 29 Jun 2020 11:46:14 -0500 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Cabin Top Hatch Leak In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hello Rob! Yes, of course I remember Michael and the decoder ring. Ha! He's no longer here now? Too bad. Thanks for the link. Hatch tape - of course. Why didn't I think of that? On Mon, Jun 29, 2020 at 11:22 AM Lowe, Rob wrote: > Slim, > Great to hear from you, it has been quite awhile. I also think of Rummy > most every time I read a post from 'da list' . Remember Michael and the > decoder ring? I miss those days too. > > I expect you can just see who made your hatch and what size of gasket you > have. Looks like West Marine offers all sort of choices. > > https://www.westmarine.com/hatch-trim-screen-kits?Nrpp=30&cm_sp=CatCarousel-_-BoatHatch-_-NA > > Good to hear you are well and still sailing Fandango. Keep those > checklists coming, I still use yours for raising and lowering the mast. - > Rob > > Rob Lowe > Hatch Trim & Screen Kits | West Marine< > https://www.westmarine.com/hatch-trim-screen-kits?Nrpp=30&cm_sp=CatCarousel-_-BoatHatch-_-NA > > > Shop, read reviews, or ask questions about Hatch Trim & Screen Kits at the > official West Marine online store. Since 1968, West Marine has grown to > over 250 local stores, with knowledgeable Associates happy to assist. Shop > with confidence - get free shipping to home or stores + price match > guarantee! > www.westmarine.com > > > > > ________________________________ > From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of > Steven Alm > Sent: Monday, June 29, 2020 11:41 AM > To: Rhodes > Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Cabin Top Hatch Leak > > Well, hello sailor! I don't think I've posted here since we lost our friend > Rummy. Still miss him. Wherever he is I hope he's enjoying a Mt. Gay/diet > coke. > > There have been a lot of changes in my world since then but I still sail > Fandango. I bought the boat and joined this list 25 years ago - wow! I'm > retired and live in Wisconsin now (Rummy is laughing and insisting I'm now > a Packers fan. I'm not!). I keep my boat slipped at a marina on Lake Pepin, > which is really The Mississippi River where it widens between WI and MN. > It's about 2 miles wide and 20 miles long so it's a nice big stretch of > sailing water. There's almost no current and it's known as the birthplace > of water skiing, and home to the fabled sea monster "Peppie". I'm very well > and happy, thank you. > > I have a very minor problem and thought it'd be a good excuse to drop in > and say hi. I'm a little rusty at searching the archives and didn't find it > there. The hatch on the port side cabin top leaks a little. I'm wondering > if anyone has replaced the foam gasket around the opening or has any other > fixes. I thought of just sticking a dime or something up in the latches on > the inside to make it close a little tighter but that would probably loosen > the latches permanently and then dimes would have to become part of my > onboard gear forever and my checklist is already a novel. Thanks in advance > for any suggestions, and looking forward to hearing from some old friends > or new ones. > > -Slim > From retiredtoby at gmail.com Mon Jun 29 12:58:26 2020 From: retiredtoby at gmail.com (Cary Tolbert) Date: Mon, 29 Jun 2020 12:58:26 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] (no subject) Message-ID: Richard is this O.K.? Have different angles. Cary Tolbert -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20200629_124859.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 6078639 bytes Desc: not available URL: From oehecht at gmail.com Mon Jun 29 13:19:49 2020 From: oehecht at gmail.com (Olivier Hecht) Date: Mon, 29 Jun 2020 13:19:49 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] =?utf-8?b?TW90b3IgbGlmdCDigJxiZWFyaW5nc+KAnT8=?= In-Reply-To: <230612412.3700567.1593439504133@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1A129508-6B2A-4857-888A-69182525769F@stottarchitecture.com> <230612412.3700567.1593439504133@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Thanks all. I think the bearings went out over the past couple of seasons as the movement of the carriage has been getting worse. Here?s also been a hairline crack in the mount/carriage itself that?s very worrisome...I check the ?leash? on the motor a few times a season! So it might be best to upgrade the mount to the linear bearing design even if that requires a few extra parts. Still waiting to hear back from Stan. On Mon, Jun 29, 2020 at 10:05 AM Mark West via Rhodes22-list < rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote: > WE have an extra long XL Honda, when up and tilted (factory electric lift) > doesn't drag but dam close when healed. Goes way down deep in water on some > larger roller waves it doesn't break surface. I think the long shaft would > be good also, we have tiller steer, motor has to be low enough to attach. > have spare Long shaft will try it one day I think it might be better fit > MARK > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Richard Stott > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Sent: Mon, Jun 29, 2020 8:26 am > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Motor lift ?bearings?? > > Does anyone use a 20? long shaft, considered a ?Long Shaft? > Most, including both my motors are 25? shaft. (extra long) > If there are any Rhodes with 20? motor shafts, I would like to see the > motor mount for such. > Brt to all > Be safe > Ric > sv Dadventure > HBNY > > Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP > www.stottarchitecture.com > Office 631-283-1777 > Cell 516-965-3164 > > > > > > > On Jun 29, 2020, at 1:33 AM, Mary Lou Troy wrote: > > > > Hi Olivier, > > I'm trying to remember the details of exactly how the mount worked. We > didn't pay it much attention though we may have added a stop at the bottom. > I know the design kept evolving after we bought the boat in 1998 and as the > boat was a 1991, it may have been a design from a previous year. > > > > I wonder how long that plastic had been fatigued and if that had > something to do with your difficulties with the mount? I don't remember a > whole lot of difficulty raising and lowering the motor and I'm not the > strongest or most athletic sort. In spite of that, I did most of the > raising and lowering. it did take moving close to the mount and raising it > hand over hand. I guess it would have been more problematic if we were not > always sailing with two people but it almost always went quickly. It did > sometime take a nudge on the top of the motor to get it going down. > > > > Hope you find a quick fix and glad you are getting out a lot. > > > > Mary Lou > > > > On 6/28/2020 1:16 PM, Olivier Hecht wrote: > >> Thanks Roger. That is a lot different and looks like an upgrade! I wish > >> I?d taken more pictures before leaving the boat at the yard again...I > can > >> do that the next time I?m there. Basically though, there are four round > >> protrusions on the movable carriage in the mount at the four corners of > >> that carriage. Those are the parts that fit inside the plastic bearings > I?m > >> trying to replace. BTW, those protrusions themselves look pretty work > >> themselves so upgrading the carriage might be the best long-term idea. > >> Raising and lowering the motor has always been very tough with this > design. > >> One of the many reasons I?m so hesitant to use the motor! Olivier > >> > >> On Sun, Jun 28, 2020 at 11:05 AM ROGER PIHLAJA > >> wrote: > >> > >>> Olivier, > >>> > >>> I?ve attached a close-up photo of the linear bearing on my GBI motor > >>> mount. Note that it doesn?t seem at all like yours. My linear > bearings > >>> are T-shaped pieces of glass-filled PTFE that ride in 6061 T6 Aluminum > >>> C-Channels. This design of linear bearing has a huge bearing surface > area, > >>> so the wear rate is minimal. The design is self flushing to keep > abrasive > >>> debris out of the bearing. Plus, the bearings can be easily swapped > out > >>> W/O disassembling the whole motor mount when replacement is required > after > >>> many, many service hours. I don?t know when GBI changed the design; > but, > >>> it might be helpful if you provided a few more photos of your motor > mount. > >>> > >>> Also, it might be helpful if you make a few measurements of the > >>> ID/OD/Length of your bearings. They might be standard plastic pipe > sizes > >>> and easily sourced from Grainger, McMaster-Carr, or United States > Plastics > >>> Corp. > >>> > >>> Roger Pihlaja > >>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium > >>> > >>> [cid:image003.jpg at 01D64D3C.17C68130] > >>> > >>> Sent from Mail for > >>> Windows 10 > >>> > >>> From: Olivier Hecht > >>> Sent: Saturday, June 27, 2020 9:01 PM > >>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > >>> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Motor lift ?bearings?? > >>> > >>> Did 50 miles on Fretless from 3 pm Friday to 6 pm today, with a nice > break > >>> at a marina from 7 pm to 8 am! > >>> > >>> An unpleasant part of the experience was dealing with the motor lift > >>> getting crooked in the tracks because two of the four plastic > ?bearings? > >>> the mount rides on were worn out/missing. See pics. I sent a note to > Stan > >>> but also wanted to ask here if anyone has replaced these. Any tips on > >>> replacing them without dismounting the motor if that?s possible? The > side > >>> tracks appear to come off and I was able to retrieve one of the > bearings > >>> that was loose in the track after parking the it on its trailer. > Getting > >>> new ones in will probably be harder though... > >>> > >>> Thanks. Olivier > >>> -------------- next part -------------- > >>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > >>> Name: IMG_0124.jpg > >>> Type: image/jpg > >>> Size: 2110648 bytes > >>> Desc: not available > >>> URL: < > >>> > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200627/b841e8e0/attachment.jpg > >>> -------------- next part -------------- > >>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > >>> Name: IMG_0125.jpg > >>> Type: image/jpg > >>> Size: 614559 bytes > >>> Desc: not available > >>> URL: < > >>> > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200627/b841e8e0/attachment-0001.jpg > >>> -------------- next part -------------- > >>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > >>> Name: BF18051D5E90405A940F1CBA91227825.jpg > >>> Type: image/jpeg > >>> Size: 174549 bytes > >>> Desc: BF18051D5E90405A940F1CBA91227825.jpg > >>> URL: < > >>> > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200628/24d54a79/attachment.jpg > > > > > > -- > > This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. > > https://www.avast.com/antivirus > > > From borderfolle at yahoo.com Mon Jun 29 13:59:30 2020 From: borderfolle at yahoo.com (Donald Simons) Date: Mon, 29 Jun 2020 17:59:30 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] =?utf-8?b?TW90b3IgbGlmdCDigJxiZWFyaW5nc+KAnT8=?= In-Reply-To: <1A129508-6B2A-4857-888A-69182525769F@stottarchitecture.com> References: <1A129508-6B2A-4857-888A-69182525769F@stottarchitecture.com> Message-ID: <450908333.3820450.1593453570991@mail.yahoo.com> I use an 8 hp. Yamaha with a 20" shaft.? No problems with this setup on my 2003 Rhodes with Stan's electric motor mount. Don? Ithaca, NY On Monday, June 29, 2020, 08:26:37 AM EDT, Richard Stott wrote: Does anyone use a 20? long shaft, considered a ?Long Shaft? Most, including both my motors are 25? shaft. (extra long) If there are any Rhodes with 20? motor shafts, I would like to see the motor mount for such. Brt to all Be safe Ric sv Dadventure HBNY Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP www.stottarchitecture.com Office??? 631-283-1777 Cell??? ??? 516-965-3164 > On Jun 29, 2020, at 1:33 AM, Mary Lou Troy wrote: > > Hi Olivier, > I'm trying to remember the details of exactly how the mount worked. We didn't pay it much attention though we may have added a stop at the bottom. I know the design kept evolving after we bought the boat in 1998 and as the boat was a 1991, it may have been a design from a previous year. > > I wonder how long that plastic had been fatigued and if that had something to do with your difficulties with the mount?? I don't remember a whole lot of difficulty raising and lowering the motor and I'm not the strongest or most athletic sort. In spite of that, I did most of the raising and lowering. it did take moving close to the mount and raising it hand over hand. I guess it would have been more problematic if we were not always sailing with two people but it almost always went quickly. It did sometime take a nudge on the top of the motor to get it going down. > > Hope you find a quick fix and glad you are getting out a lot. > > Mary Lou > > On 6/28/2020 1:16 PM, Olivier Hecht wrote: >> Thanks Roger. That is a lot different and looks like an upgrade!? I wish >> I?d taken more pictures before leaving the boat at the yard again...I can >> do that the next time I?m there. Basically though, there are four round >> protrusions on the movable carriage in the mount at the four corners of >> that carriage. Those are the parts that fit inside the plastic bearings I?m >> trying to replace. BTW, those protrusions themselves look pretty work >> themselves so upgrading the carriage might be the best long-term idea. >> Raising and lowering the motor has always been very tough with this design. >> One of the many reasons I?m so hesitant to use the motor! Olivier >> >> On Sun, Jun 28, 2020 at 11:05 AM ROGER PIHLAJA >> wrote: >> >>> Olivier, >>> >>> I?ve attached a close-up photo of the linear bearing on my GBI motor >>> mount.? Note that it doesn?t seem at all like yours.? My linear bearings >>> are T-shaped pieces of glass-filled PTFE that ride in 6061 T6 Aluminum >>> C-Channels.? This design of linear bearing has a huge bearing surface area, >>> so the wear rate is minimal.? The design is self flushing to keep abrasive >>> debris out of the bearing.? Plus, the bearings can be easily swapped out >>> W/O disassembling the whole motor mount when replacement is required after >>> many, many service hours.? I don?t know when GBI changed the design; but, >>> it might be helpful if you provided a few more photos of your motor mount. >>> >>> Also, it might be helpful if you make a few measurements of the >>> ID/OD/Length of your bearings.? They might be standard plastic pipe sizes >>> and easily sourced from Grainger, McMaster-Carr, or United States Plastics >>> Corp. >>> >>> Roger Pihlaja >>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium >>> >>> [cid:image003.jpg at 01D64D3C.17C68130] >>> >>> Sent from Mail for >>> Windows 10 >>> >>> From: Olivier Hecht >>> Sent: Saturday, June 27, 2020 9:01 PM >>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List >>> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Motor lift ?bearings?? >>> >>> Did 50 miles on Fretless from 3 pm Friday to 6 pm today, with a nice break >>> at a marina from 7 pm to 8 am! >>> >>> An unpleasant part of the experience was dealing with the motor lift >>> getting crooked in the tracks because two of the four plastic ?bearings? >>> the mount rides on were worn out/missing. See pics. I sent a note to Stan >>> but also wanted to ask here if anyone has replaced these. Any tips on >>> replacing them without dismounting the motor if that?s possible?? The side >>> tracks appear to come off and I was able to retrieve one of the bearings >>> that was loose in the track after parking the? it on its trailer. Getting >>> new ones in will probably be harder though... >>> >>> Thanks. Olivier >>> -------------- next part -------------- >>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >>> Name: IMG_0124.jpg >>> Type: image/jpg >>> Size: 2110648 bytes >>> Desc: not available >>> URL: < >>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200627/b841e8e0/attachment.jpg >>> -------------- next part -------------- >>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >>> Name: IMG_0125.jpg >>> Type: image/jpg >>> Size: 614559 bytes >>> Desc: not available >>> URL: < >>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200627/b841e8e0/attachment-0001.jpg >>> -------------- next part -------------- >>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >>> Name: BF18051D5E90405A940F1CBA91227825.jpg >>> Type: image/jpeg >>> Size: 174549 bytes >>> Desc: BF18051D5E90405A940F1CBA91227825.jpg >>> URL: < >>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200628/24d54a79/attachment.jpg > > > -- > This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. > https://www.avast.com/antivirus > From ric at stottarchitecture.com Mon Jun 29 14:16:53 2020 From: ric at stottarchitecture.com (Richard Stott) Date: Mon, 29 Jun 2020 14:16:53 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] =?utf-8?b?TW90b3IgbGlmdCDigJxiZWFyaW5nc+KAnT8=?= In-Reply-To: <450908333.3820450.1593453570991@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1A129508-6B2A-4857-888A-69182525769F@stottarchitecture.com> <450908333.3820450.1593453570991@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: All Since 2013 I've been asking Stan about sending or selling or otherwise supplying me somehow with a new motor mount. He finally replied at one point years ago, that I would have to bring the boat to him to have this done. After my recent mishap, I asked him again to price all the parts I would need, for my insurance quote - didn?t hear back. Turns out the insurance claim was denied anyway- ?rot isn?t covered? even though there was no visible signs whatsoever. So I bough the most robust West Marine mount available with the longest vertical travel so the I can use the boat until I have another mount solution. I?m also searching for a motor solution, fix a used motor. Trying to get quotes for repairs is hard enough these days, but the time it will take in the shop is just silly. Fortunately I have an older 2 stoke motor I can use until I sort all this out. BOATS!!! Ric sv Dadventure HBNY Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP www.stottarchitecture.com Office 631-283-1777 Cell 516-965-3164 > On Jun 29, 2020, at 1:59 PM, Donald Simons via Rhodes22-list wrote: > > I use an 8 hp. Yamaha with a 20" shaft. No problems with this setup on my 2003 Rhodes with Stan's electric motor mount. > Don Ithaca, NY > On Monday, June 29, 2020, 08:26:37 AM EDT, Richard Stott wrote: > > Does anyone use a 20? long shaft, considered a ?Long Shaft? > Most, including both my motors are 25? shaft. (extra long) > If there are any Rhodes with 20? motor shafts, I would like to see the motor mount for such. > Brt to all > Be safe > Ric > sv Dadventure > HBNY > > Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP > www.stottarchitecture.com > Office 631-283-1777 > Cell 516-965-3164 > > > > > >> On Jun 29, 2020, at 1:33 AM, Mary Lou Troy wrote: >> >> Hi Olivier, >> I'm trying to remember the details of exactly how the mount worked. We didn't pay it much attention though we may have added a stop at the bottom. I know the design kept evolving after we bought the boat in 1998 and as the boat was a 1991, it may have been a design from a previous year. >> >> I wonder how long that plastic had been fatigued and if that had something to do with your difficulties with the mount? I don't remember a whole lot of difficulty raising and lowering the motor and I'm not the strongest or most athletic sort. In spite of that, I did most of the raising and lowering. it did take moving close to the mount and raising it hand over hand. I guess it would have been more problematic if we were not always sailing with two people but it almost always went quickly. It did sometime take a nudge on the top of the motor to get it going down. >> >> Hope you find a quick fix and glad you are getting out a lot. >> >> Mary Lou >> >> On 6/28/2020 1:16 PM, Olivier Hecht wrote: >>> Thanks Roger. That is a lot different and looks like an upgrade! I wish >>> I?d taken more pictures before leaving the boat at the yard again...I can >>> do that the next time I?m there. Basically though, there are four round >>> protrusions on the movable carriage in the mount at the four corners of >>> that carriage. Those are the parts that fit inside the plastic bearings I?m >>> trying to replace. BTW, those protrusions themselves look pretty work >>> themselves so upgrading the carriage might be the best long-term idea. >>> Raising and lowering the motor has always been very tough with this design. >>> One of the many reasons I?m so hesitant to use the motor! Olivier >>> >>> On Sun, Jun 28, 2020 at 11:05 AM ROGER PIHLAJA >>> wrote: >>> >>>> Olivier, >>>> >>>> I?ve attached a close-up photo of the linear bearing on my GBI motor >>>> mount. Note that it doesn?t seem at all like yours. My linear bearings >>>> are T-shaped pieces of glass-filled PTFE that ride in 6061 T6 Aluminum >>>> C-Channels. This design of linear bearing has a huge bearing surface area, >>>> so the wear rate is minimal. The design is self flushing to keep abrasive >>>> debris out of the bearing. Plus, the bearings can be easily swapped out >>>> W/O disassembling the whole motor mount when replacement is required after >>>> many, many service hours. I don?t know when GBI changed the design; but, >>>> it might be helpful if you provided a few more photos of your motor mount. >>>> >>>> Also, it might be helpful if you make a few measurements of the >>>> ID/OD/Length of your bearings. They might be standard plastic pipe sizes >>>> and easily sourced from Grainger, McMaster-Carr, or United States Plastics >>>> Corp. >>>> >>>> Roger Pihlaja >>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium >>>> >>>> [cid:image003.jpg at 01D64D3C.17C68130] >>>> >>>> Sent from Mail for >>>> Windows 10 >>>> >>>> From: Olivier Hecht >>>> Sent: Saturday, June 27, 2020 9:01 PM >>>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List >>>> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Motor lift ?bearings?? >>>> >>>> Did 50 miles on Fretless from 3 pm Friday to 6 pm today, with a nice break >>>> at a marina from 7 pm to 8 am! >>>> >>>> An unpleasant part of the experience was dealing with the motor lift >>>> getting crooked in the tracks because two of the four plastic ?bearings? >>>> the mount rides on were worn out/missing. See pics. I sent a note to Stan >>>> but also wanted to ask here if anyone has replaced these. Any tips on >>>> replacing them without dismounting the motor if that?s possible? The side >>>> tracks appear to come off and I was able to retrieve one of the bearings >>>> that was loose in the track after parking the it on its trailer. Getting >>>> new ones in will probably be harder though... >>>> >>>> Thanks. Olivier >>>> -------------- next part -------------- >>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >>>> Name: IMG_0124.jpg >>>> Type: image/jpg >>>> Size: 2110648 bytes >>>> Desc: not available >>>> URL: < >>>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200627/b841e8e0/attachment.jpg >>>> -------------- next part -------------- >>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >>>> Name: IMG_0125.jpg >>>> Type: image/jpg >>>> Size: 614559 bytes >>>> Desc: not available >>>> URL: < >>>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200627/b841e8e0/attachment-0001.jpg >>>> -------------- next part -------------- >>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >>>> Name: BF18051D5E90405A940F1CBA91227825.jpg >>>> Type: image/jpeg >>>> Size: 174549 bytes >>>> Desc: BF18051D5E90405A940F1CBA91227825.jpg >>>> URL: < >>>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200628/24d54a79/attachment.jpg >> >> >> -- >> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. >> https://www.avast.com/antivirus >> > From ric at stottarchitecture.com Mon Jun 29 14:40:27 2020 From: ric at stottarchitecture.com (Richard Stott) Date: Mon, 29 Jun 2020 14:40:27 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] (no subject) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <01E7E4F9-0ABE-421A-AAAE-B6A32901D2C8@stottarchitecture.com> Cary Your's is similar to the mount I have on my 84 Mine is made of a ?U? Aluminum extrusion much thinner than what I see on yours - i think they are 1/8? or less. At the top, the extrusions have been stressed and the mounts is beginning to pull out of the rails. My aluminum rails have no visible hardware because they are attached from the inside of the transom with screws assumably threaded into the extrusion and perhaps the 1/2 continuous Delrin sliders set into the extrusions. I must either replace the rails or reinforce them. Maybe I am seeing that reinforcement on your rig. I would like the rails to extend to the top of the transom so the ?tilt? operation for the motor is not required or is just one click. BTW The mounting block - in my case, laminated plywood- broke off on launching this springl and my 8hp Yamaha went in the drink. (I had not attached the chain yet) The root of all this. Ric sv Dadventure HBNY Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP www.stottarchitecture.com Office 631-283-1777 Cell 516-965-3164 > On Jun 29, 2020, at 12:58 PM, Cary Tolbert wrote: > > Richard is this O.K.? Have different angles. > Cary Tolbert > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: 20200629_124859.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 6078639 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: From retiredtoby at gmail.com Mon Jun 29 15:35:53 2020 From: retiredtoby at gmail.com (Cary Tolbert) Date: Mon, 29 Jun 2020 15:35:53 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] (no subject) In-Reply-To: <01E7E4F9-0ABE-421A-AAAE-B6A32901D2C8@stottarchitecture.com> References: <01E7E4F9-0ABE-421A-AAAE-B6A32901D2C8@stottarchitecture.com> Message-ID: Richard, Stan told me to replace the old starboard with aluminum. So I took the parts ( many pieces) to the local machine shop. They replicated the parts and drilled the holes using the broken parts as a pattern. I did replace the bolts, washers and lock nuts with S/S. Someone had used regular steel parts that had rusted to pieces as well as I found out when taking the parts from the boat in order to take them to the machinist. The plywood in the lazarette was still in reasonably good shape. My motor has an electrical motor that can lift the motor from the water. I use this position when sailing to keep it from dragging, this helps with speed as well as the steering. Good luck on your project. P.S. Did you notice my chain and lock to keep the motor attached to the boat. I am a "code plus one" kind of guy. I know it is overkill, but it makes me feel better. Cary On Mon, Jun 29, 2020 at 2:40 PM Richard Stott wrote: > Cary > Your's is similar to the mount I have on my 84 > Mine is made of a ?U? Aluminum extrusion much thinner than what I see on > yours - i think they are 1/8? or less. > At the top, the extrusions have been stressed and the mounts is beginning > to pull out of the rails. > My aluminum rails have no visible hardware because they are attached from > the inside of the transom with screws assumably threaded into the extrusion > and perhaps the 1/2 continuous Delrin sliders set into the extrusions. > I must either replace the rails or reinforce them. > Maybe I am seeing that reinforcement on your rig. > I would like the rails to extend to the top of the transom so the ?tilt? > operation for the motor is not required or is just one click. > > BTW > The mounting block - in my case, laminated plywood- broke off on launching > this springl and my 8hp Yamaha went in the drink. (I had not attached the > chain yet) > The root of all this. > Ric > sv Dadventure > HBNY > > > Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP > www.stottarchitecture.com > Office 631-283-1777 > Cell 516-965-3164 > > > > > > > On Jun 29, 2020, at 12:58 PM, Cary Tolbert > wrote: > > > > Richard is this O.K.? Have different angles. > > Cary Tolbert > > -------------- next part -------------- > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > > Name: 20200629_124859.jpg > > Type: image/jpeg > > Size: 6078639 bytes > > Desc: not available > > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200629/1b85616b/attachment.jpg > > > > From ric at stottarchitecture.com Mon Jun 29 16:23:48 2020 From: ric at stottarchitecture.com (Richard Stott) Date: Mon, 29 Jun 2020 16:23:48 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] (no subject) In-Reply-To: References: <01E7E4F9-0ABE-421A-AAAE-B6A32901D2C8@stottarchitecture.com> Message-ID: <90EE13C8-0A2C-43BA-B459-39AAF7ADEF1C@stottarchitecture.com> Cary It looks like you also have a manual control line to adjust the height of the motor mount. What is the electric motor connected to? Do you still have to tilt the motor wonce it?s in the up position? Ric Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP www.stottarchitecture.com Office 631-283-1777 Cell 516-965-3164 > On Jun 29, 2020, at 3:35 PM, Cary Tolbert wrote: > > Richard, Stan told me to replace the old starboard with aluminum. So I took > the parts ( many pieces) to the local machine shop. They replicated the > parts and drilled the holes using the broken parts as a pattern. I did > replace the bolts, washers and lock nuts with S/S. Someone had used regular > steel parts that had rusted to pieces as well as I found out when taking > the parts from the boat in order to take them to the machinist. The > plywood in the lazarette was still in reasonably good shape. > My motor has an electrical motor that can lift the motor from the water. I > use this position when sailing to keep it from dragging, this helps with > speed as well as the steering. > Good luck on your project. > P.S. Did you notice my chain and lock to keep the motor attached to the > boat. I am a "code plus one" kind of guy. I know it is overkill, but it > makes me feel better. > Cary > > On Mon, Jun 29, 2020 at 2:40 PM Richard Stott > wrote: > >> Cary >> Your's is similar to the mount I have on my 84 >> Mine is made of a ?U? Aluminum extrusion much thinner than what I see on >> yours - i think they are 1/8? or less. >> At the top, the extrusions have been stressed and the mounts is beginning >> to pull out of the rails. >> My aluminum rails have no visible hardware because they are attached from >> the inside of the transom with screws assumably threaded into the extrusion >> and perhaps the 1/2 continuous Delrin sliders set into the extrusions. >> I must either replace the rails or reinforce them. >> Maybe I am seeing that reinforcement on your rig. >> I would like the rails to extend to the top of the transom so the ?tilt? >> operation for the motor is not required or is just one click. >> >> BTW >> The mounting block - in my case, laminated plywood- broke off on launching >> this springl and my 8hp Yamaha went in the drink. (I had not attached the >> chain yet) >> The root of all this. >> Ric >> sv Dadventure >> HBNY >> >> >> Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP >> www.stottarchitecture.com >> Office 631-283-1777 >> Cell 516-965-3164 >> >> >> >> >> >>> On Jun 29, 2020, at 12:58 PM, Cary Tolbert >> wrote: >>> >>> Richard is this O.K.? Have different angles. >>> Cary Tolbert >>> -------------- next part -------------- >>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >>> Name: 20200629_124859.jpg >>> Type: image/jpeg >>> Size: 6078639 bytes >>> Desc: not available >>> URL: < >> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200629/1b85616b/attachment.jpg >>> >> >> From retiredtoby at gmail.com Mon Jun 29 16:40:32 2020 From: retiredtoby at gmail.com (Cary Tolbert) Date: Mon, 29 Jun 2020 16:40:32 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] (no subject) In-Reply-To: <90EE13C8-0A2C-43BA-B459-39AAF7ADEF1C@stottarchitecture.com> References: <01E7E4F9-0ABE-421A-AAAE-B6A32901D2C8@stottarchitecture.com> <90EE13C8-0A2C-43BA-B459-39AAF7ADEF1C@stottarchitecture.com> Message-ID: Richard, you are correct. I pull the motor to the top of the mechanical lift and then use the " electric tilt" to get the motor out of the water. The previous owner who bought the motor new, anchored on a buoy in the Hudson River, N J ocean side of the Statton Is.Exit. They said the Insurance paid for it. So I would guess they bought what worked best for them at the time. I did not want to embarrass them by asking questions when I was negotiating the price of the boat. Cary On Mon, Jun 29, 2020 at 4:23 PM Richard Stott wrote: > Cary > It looks like you also have a manual control line to adjust the height of > the motor mount. > What is the electric motor connected to? > Do you still have to tilt the motor wonce it?s in the up position? > Ric > > Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP > www.stottarchitecture.com > Office 631-283-1777 > Cell 516-965-3164 > > > > > > > On Jun 29, 2020, at 3:35 PM, Cary Tolbert wrote: > > > > Richard, Stan told me to replace the old starboard with aluminum. So I > took > > the parts ( many pieces) to the local machine shop. They replicated the > > parts and drilled the holes using the broken parts as a pattern. I did > > replace the bolts, washers and lock nuts with S/S. Someone had used > regular > > steel parts that had rusted to pieces as well as I found out when taking > > the parts from the boat in order to take them to the machinist. The > > plywood in the lazarette was still in reasonably good shape. > > My motor has an electrical motor that can lift the motor from the water. > I > > use this position when sailing to keep it from dragging, this helps with > > speed as well as the steering. > > Good luck on your project. > > P.S. Did you notice my chain and lock to keep the motor attached to the > > boat. I am a "code plus one" kind of guy. I know it is overkill, but it > > makes me feel better. > > Cary > > > > On Mon, Jun 29, 2020 at 2:40 PM Richard Stott > > > wrote: > > > >> Cary > >> Your's is similar to the mount I have on my 84 > >> Mine is made of a ?U? Aluminum extrusion much thinner than what I see on > >> yours - i think they are 1/8? or less. > >> At the top, the extrusions have been stressed and the mounts is > beginning > >> to pull out of the rails. > >> My aluminum rails have no visible hardware because they are attached > from > >> the inside of the transom with screws assumably threaded into the > extrusion > >> and perhaps the 1/2 continuous Delrin sliders set into the extrusions. > >> I must either replace the rails or reinforce them. > >> Maybe I am seeing that reinforcement on your rig. > >> I would like the rails to extend to the top of the transom so the ?tilt? > >> operation for the motor is not required or is just one click. > >> > >> BTW > >> The mounting block - in my case, laminated plywood- broke off on > launching > >> this springl and my 8hp Yamaha went in the drink. (I had not attached > the > >> chain yet) > >> The root of all this. > >> Ric > >> sv Dadventure > >> HBNY > >> > >> > >> Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP > >> www.stottarchitecture.com > >> Office 631-283-1777 > >> Cell 516-965-3164 > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >>> On Jun 29, 2020, at 12:58 PM, Cary Tolbert > >> wrote: > >>> > >>> Richard is this O.K.? Have different angles. > >>> Cary Tolbert > >>> -------------- next part -------------- > >>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > >>> Name: 20200629_124859.jpg > >>> Type: image/jpeg > >>> Size: 6078639 bytes > >>> Desc: not available > >>> URL: < > >> > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200629/1b85616b/attachment.jpg > >>> > >> > >> > > From ric at stottarchitecture.com Mon Jun 29 16:47:01 2020 From: ric at stottarchitecture.com (Richard Stott) Date: Mon, 29 Jun 2020 16:47:01 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] (no subject) In-Reply-To: References: <01E7E4F9-0ABE-421A-AAAE-B6A32901D2C8@stottarchitecture.com> <90EE13C8-0A2C-43BA-B459-39AAF7ADEF1C@stottarchitecture.com> Message-ID: <34FA9C92-5276-4AFF-950C-49920727E5AB@stottarchitecture.com> OK - got it. Auto-tilt is available on some of the newer outboards. I?m also working with Mke Riter on a mod to use an electric motor to lift the standard GB mount like yours and mine. Expect concept launch and prototype Fall 2020. Ric sv Dadventure Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP www.stottarchitecture.com Office 631-283-1777 Cell 516-965-3164 > On Jun 29, 2020, at 4:40 PM, Cary Tolbert wrote: > > Richard, you are correct. I pull the motor to the top of the mechanical > lift and then use the " electric tilt" to get the motor out of the water. > The previous owner who bought the motor new, anchored on a buoy in the > Hudson River, N J ocean side of the Statton Is.Exit. They said the > Insurance paid for it. So I would guess they bought what worked best for > them at the time. I did not want to embarrass them by asking questions when > I was negotiating the price of the boat. > Cary > > On Mon, Jun 29, 2020 at 4:23 PM Richard Stott > wrote: > >> Cary >> It looks like you also have a manual control line to adjust the height of >> the motor mount. >> What is the electric motor connected to? >> Do you still have to tilt the motor wonce it?s in the up position? >> Ric >> >> Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP >> www.stottarchitecture.com >> Office 631-283-1777 >> Cell 516-965-3164 >> >> >> >> >> >>> On Jun 29, 2020, at 3:35 PM, Cary Tolbert wrote: >>> >>> Richard, Stan told me to replace the old starboard with aluminum. So I >> took >>> the parts ( many pieces) to the local machine shop. They replicated the >>> parts and drilled the holes using the broken parts as a pattern. I did >>> replace the bolts, washers and lock nuts with S/S. Someone had used >> regular >>> steel parts that had rusted to pieces as well as I found out when taking >>> the parts from the boat in order to take them to the machinist. The >>> plywood in the lazarette was still in reasonably good shape. >>> My motor has an electrical motor that can lift the motor from the water. >> I >>> use this position when sailing to keep it from dragging, this helps with >>> speed as well as the steering. >>> Good luck on your project. >>> P.S. Did you notice my chain and lock to keep the motor attached to the >>> boat. I am a "code plus one" kind of guy. I know it is overkill, but it >>> makes me feel better. >>> Cary >>> >>> On Mon, Jun 29, 2020 at 2:40 PM Richard Stott >> >>> wrote: >>> >>>> Cary >>>> Your's is similar to the mount I have on my 84 >>>> Mine is made of a ?U? Aluminum extrusion much thinner than what I see on >>>> yours - i think they are 1/8? or less. >>>> At the top, the extrusions have been stressed and the mounts is >> beginning >>>> to pull out of the rails. >>>> My aluminum rails have no visible hardware because they are attached >> from >>>> the inside of the transom with screws assumably threaded into the >> extrusion >>>> and perhaps the 1/2 continuous Delrin sliders set into the extrusions. >>>> I must either replace the rails or reinforce them. >>>> Maybe I am seeing that reinforcement on your rig. >>>> I would like the rails to extend to the top of the transom so the ?tilt? >>>> operation for the motor is not required or is just one click. >>>> >>>> BTW >>>> The mounting block - in my case, laminated plywood- broke off on >> launching >>>> this springl and my 8hp Yamaha went in the drink. (I had not attached >> the >>>> chain yet) >>>> The root of all this. >>>> Ric >>>> sv Dadventure >>>> HBNY >>>> >>>> >>>> Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP >>>> www.stottarchitecture.com >>>> Office 631-283-1777 >>>> Cell 516-965-3164 >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>>> On Jun 29, 2020, at 12:58 PM, Cary Tolbert >>>> wrote: >>>>> >>>>> Richard is this O.K.? Have different angles. >>>>> Cary Tolbert >>>>> -------------- next part -------------- >>>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >>>>> Name: 20200629_124859.jpg >>>>> Type: image/jpeg >>>>> Size: 6078639 bytes >>>>> Desc: not available >>>>> URL: < >>>> >> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20200629/1b85616b/attachment.jpg >>>>> >>>> >>>> >> >> From lgioia at yahoo.com Mon Jun 29 17:49:55 2020 From: lgioia at yahoo.com (Larry Gioia) Date: Mon, 29 Jun 2020 17:49:55 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Recommendations? Where to buy replacement lines References: Message-ID: Hi, My 2014 R22?s jib sheet, main sheet & halyards etc will probably need replacement in a year or 2. Any recommendations for where to get them? I really liked the blue ones that came with the boat when new, not sure where Stan gets them - I assume he doesn?t sell replacements. Peter you mentioned Defender Marine in CT for other items, I like ordering from them as ground deliveries arrive the next day up here in the Adirondacks. Thanks! Larry ?14 R22 Language of Love ?86 R22 From jschroll at msn.com Mon Jun 29 19:21:32 2020 From: jschroll at msn.com (James Schroll) Date: Mon, 29 Jun 2020 19:21:32 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Two unrelated questions Message-ID: We keep our 1990 Rhodes 22 (refurbished by Stan in 2016) at a neighbors house on the Magothy River (5 miles or so north of Annapolis). She has a boat lift which has become available, but I will clearly need to build some bunks in order to use it. Right now, there are two 3?w x 12?h beams running (parallel to the centerline of the boat) attached to the tow steel I beams of the lift. Does anyone have any experience, plans, dimensions, pictures, or anything else which might guide my creation of a set of bunks? If nothing else, I can try to reproduce the layout of the bunks on our trailer, but actual dimensions/angles would certainly help. Secondly, most fo the electrical circuits seem to not be functioning. The batteries are fine and the engine starts immediately, the cabin lights work, and the radio (which does not appear to be wired into the breaker panel works, but the running lights, 12 v outlets, anchoring light, and masthead light are not functioning. Does anyone have wiring diagrams which might be of help? I?m pretty sure that the wiring is not all original (some of the wires leaving the breaker panel are different than those arriving at the lights, suggesting splices and homemade repairs). Any suggestions on how to attack this? Thanks, Jim Schroll Pinafore From lgioia at yahoo.com Mon Jun 29 22:43:33 2020 From: lgioia at yahoo.com (Larry Gioia) Date: Tue, 30 Jun 2020 02:43:33 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Two unrelated questions In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <290367341.70681.1593485013053@mail.yahoo.com> Hi James, When I bought my 2014 new from Stan, I asked about a stand to store it on in the winter, to sit on 4x6s spanning my 2 docks.? Stan suggested they cut one from a trailer - they did and it works great.? I think you'll either want to (1) reproduce your trailer's structure, building up to the 4 metal pads to which the 2? wood 2x10's? (or 2 x 8's?) attach, or (2) buy an old trailer and cut it from that. Larry On Monday, June 29, 2020, 07:21:38 PM EDT, James Schroll wrote: We keep our 1990 Rhodes 22 (refurbished by Stan in 2016) at a neighbors house on the Magothy River (5 miles or so north of Annapolis).? She has a boat lift which has become available, but I will clearly need to build some bunks in order to use it.? Right now, there are two 3?w x 12?h beams running (parallel to the centerline of the boat) attached to the tow steel I beams of the lift.? Does anyone have any experience, plans, dimensions, pictures, or anything else which might guide my creation of a set of bunks?? If nothing else, I can try to reproduce the layout of the bunks on our trailer, but actual dimensions/angles would certainly help. Secondly, most fo the electrical circuits seem to not be functioning.? The batteries are fine and the engine starts immediately, the cabin lights work, and the radio (which does not appear to be wired into the breaker panel works, but the running lights, 12 v outlets, anchoring light, and masthead light are not functioning.? Does anyone have wiring diagrams which might be of help?? I?m pretty sure that the wiring is not all original (some of the wires leaving the breaker panel are different than those arriving at the lights, suggesting splices and homemade repairs).? Any suggestions on how to attack this? Thanks, Jim Schroll Pinafore From mweisner at ebsmed.com Mon Jun 29 23:28:01 2020 From: mweisner at ebsmed.com (Michael D. Weisner) Date: Mon, 29 Jun 2020 23:28:01 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Two unrelated questions In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <03ae01d64e8e$76802340$638069c0$@ebsmed.com> Jim, To address your second question regarding wiring diagrams, please review my search of our archives from last October at: http://www.rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/2019-October/083687.html Mike s/v Wind Lass ('91) Nissequogue River, NY -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of James Schroll Sent: Monday, June 29, 2020 7:22 PM To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Two unrelated questions We keep our 1990 Rhodes 22 (refurbished by Stan in 2016) at a neighbors house on the Magothy River (5 miles or so north of Annapolis). She has a boat lift which has become available, but I will clearly need to build some bunks in order to use it. Right now, there are two 3?w x 12?h beams running (parallel to the centerline of the boat) attached to the tow steel I beams of the lift. Does anyone have any experience, plans, dimensions, pictures, or anything else which might guide my creation of a set of bunks? If nothing else, I can try to reproduce the layout of the bunks on our trailer, but actual dimensions/angles would certainly help. Secondly, most fo the electrical circuits seem to not be functioning. The batteries are fine and the engine starts immediately, the cabin lights work, and the radio (which does not appear to be wired into the breaker panel works, but the running lights, 12 v outlets, anchoring light, and masthead light are not functioning. Does anyone have wiring diagrams which might be of help? I?m pretty sure that the wiring is not all original (some of the wires leaving the breaker panel are different than those arriving at the lights, suggesting splices and homemade repairs). Any suggestions on how to attack this? Thanks, Jim Schroll Pinafore= From roger_pihlaja at msn.com Tue Jun 30 06:33:52 2020 From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA) Date: Tue, 30 Jun 2020 10:33:52 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Recommendations? Where to buy replacement lines In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: Larry, Do you have a West Marine store near you? They are nationwide and usually have pretty good prices. You can also order on-line from them. Roger Pihlaja S/V Dynamic Equilibrium Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Larry Gioia via Rhodes22-list Sent: Monday, June 29, 2020 5:50 PM To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Recommendations? Where to buy replacement lines Hi, My 2014 R22?s jib sheet, main sheet & halyards etc will probably need replacement in a year or 2. Any recommendations for where to get them? I really liked the blue ones that came with the boat when new, not sure where Stan gets them - I assume he doesn?t sell replacements. Peter you mentioned Defender Marine in CT for other items, I like ordering from them as ground deliveries arrive the next day up here in the Adirondacks. Thanks! Larry ?14 R22 Language of Love ?86 R22 From tavares0947 at gmail.com Tue Jun 30 06:49:56 2020 From: tavares0947 at gmail.com (Todd Tavares) Date: Tue, 30 Jun 2020 06:49:56 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Two unrelated questions In-Reply-To: <290367341.70681.1593485013053@mail.yahoo.com> References: <290367341.70681.1593485013053@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Larry, There are dimensioned drawings of the bunks for the Triad trailer in the archives. My guess would be 2008ish? Theres a way to search online but I forget how. Todd T. tavares0947 at gmail.com On Mon, Jun 29, 2020, 10:43 PM Larry Gioia via Rhodes22-list < rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote: > Hi James, > When I bought my 2014 new from Stan, I asked about a stand to store it on > in the winter, to sit on 4x6s spanning my 2 docks. Stan suggested they cut > one from a trailer - they did and it works great. I think you'll either > want to (1) reproduce your trailer's structure, building up to the 4 metal > pads to which the 2 wood 2x10's (or 2 x 8's?) attach, or (2) buy an old > trailer and cut it from that. > Larry > On Monday, June 29, 2020, 07:21:38 PM EDT, James Schroll < > jschroll at msn.com> wrote: > > We keep our 1990 Rhodes 22 (refurbished by Stan in 2016) at a neighbors > house on the Magothy River (5 miles or so north of Annapolis). She has a > boat lift which has become available, but I will clearly need to build some > bunks in order to use it. Right now, there are two 3?w x 12?h beams > running (parallel to the centerline of the boat) attached to the tow steel > I beams of the lift. Does anyone have any experience, plans, dimensions, > pictures, or anything else which might guide my creation of a set of > bunks? If nothing else, I can try to reproduce the layout of the bunks on > our trailer, but actual dimensions/angles would certainly help. > > Secondly, most fo the electrical circuits seem to not be functioning. The > batteries are fine and the engine starts immediately, the cabin lights > work, and the radio (which does not appear to be wired into the breaker > panel works, but the running lights, 12 v outlets, anchoring light, and > masthead light are not functioning. Does anyone have wiring diagrams which > might be of help? I?m pretty sure that the wiring is not all original > (some of the wires leaving the breaker panel are different than those > arriving at the lights, suggesting splices and homemade repairs). Any > suggestions on how to attack this? > > Thanks, > > Jim Schroll > Pinafore > From rlowe at vt.edu Tue Jun 30 09:16:45 2020 From: rlowe at vt.edu (Lowe, Rob) Date: Tue, 30 Jun 2020 13:16:45 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Two unrelated questions In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Jim, Seems like wiring on the Rhodes is a challenge. On my boat, none of the wiring is consistent or up to any standards. I don't know if my wiring is factory or PO done. Since my interior was redone, I expect a bit of both. The only wiring diagram I've ever seen is the one Chris Cowie did in his sketchbook, which was recently posted. Since every boat is a bit different than the rest, I would not expect to find a standard wiring diagram. You best bet is to tackle each circuit at a time. In my experience, it seems the ground wire for a particular circuit gets corroded and won't make contact. Do you have a volt meter? It's really hard to work without one. I've had success taking the switches and fuse holders apart and cleaning them. I pull wires off the connectors, clean them, and reconnect them. None of my connectors are covered with heat shrink tubing and are very susceptible to corrosion. On my circuit breaker panel, the negative wire was so corroded the whole panel would not work until I cleaned it. Good luck! - rob ________________________________ From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of James Schroll Sent: Monday, June 29, 2020 7:21 PM To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Two unrelated questions We keep our 1990 Rhodes 22 (refurbished by Stan in 2016) at a neighbors house on the Magothy River (5 miles or so north of Annapolis). She has a boat lift which has become available, but I will clearly need to build some bunks in order to use it. Right now, there are two 3?w x 12?h beams running (parallel to the centerline of the boat) attached to the tow steel I beams of the lift. Does anyone have any experience, plans, dimensions, pictures, or anything else which might guide my creation of a set of bunks? If nothing else, I can try to reproduce the layout of the bunks on our trailer, but actual dimensions/angles would certainly help. Secondly, most fo the electrical circuits seem to not be functioning. The batteries are fine and the engine starts immediately, the cabin lights work, and the radio (which does not appear to be wired into the breaker panel works, but the running lights, 12 v outlets, anchoring light, and masthead light are not functioning. Does anyone have wiring diagrams which might be of help? I?m pretty sure that the wiring is not all original (some of the wires leaving the breaker panel are different than those arriving at the lights, suggesting splices and homemade repairs). Any suggestions on how to attack this? Thanks, Jim Schroll Pinafore From hnw555 at gmail.com Tue Jun 30 09:28:15 2020 From: hnw555 at gmail.com (Hank) Date: Tue, 30 Jun 2020 09:28:15 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Two unrelated questions In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Jim, As others have said there is no standard Rhodes wiring. My experience with GB is that while they build great boats, they do not follow standard marine practices for the electrical system. I've completely rewired several boats and helped other Rhodes owners solve issues in the past as I used to be a Helicopter electrician in the army and the principles of both are pretty much the same. I highly recommend Don Casey's book on sailboat maintenance as it will tell you how it's supposed to be and you can adjust from there. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/0071462848/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_oZZ-EbM6K8GBA Good luck! Hank On Mon, Jun 29, 2020 at 7:21 PM James Schroll wrote: > We keep our 1990 Rhodes 22 (refurbished by Stan in 2016) at a neighbors > house on the Magothy River (5 miles or so north of Annapolis). She has a > boat lift which has become available, but I will clearly need to build some > bunks in order to use it. Right now, there are two 3?w x 12?h beams > running (parallel to the centerline of the boat) attached to the tow steel > I beams of the lift. Does anyone have any experience, plans, dimensions, > pictures, or anything else which might guide my creation of a set of > bunks? If nothing else, I can try to reproduce the layout of the bunks on > our trailer, but actual dimensions/angles would certainly help. > > Secondly, most fo the electrical circuits seem to not be functioning. The > batteries are fine and the engine starts immediately, the cabin lights > work, and the radio (which does not appear to be wired into the breaker > panel works, but the running lights, 12 v outlets, anchoring light, and > masthead light are not functioning. Does anyone have wiring diagrams which > might be of help? I?m pretty sure that the wiring is not all original > (some of the wires leaving the breaker panel are different than those > arriving at the lights, suggesting splices and homemade repairs). Any > suggestions on how to attack this? > > Thanks, > > Jim Schroll > Pinafore From peter at sunnybeeches.com Tue Jun 30 16:19:34 2020 From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg) Date: Tue, 30 Jun 2020 16:19:34 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Recommendations? Where to buy replacement lines In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <43C78572-2789-46A2-8CA2-57F4B0C765D2@sunnybeeches.com> Larry, Somewhere back in history, someone on the list suggested that what you want for the running rigging on a Rhodes 22 is polyester braid line. Looking at the Defender website, the brand of polyester braid that looks most like what came with my boat is Samson Trophy Braid. A blurb from the product description: Samson Trophy Braid is a polyester double-braid with a soft, fuzzy cover that's easy to hold in wet or dry conditions. I?m not sure if it?s exactly what Stan uses, but it seems similar. It comes in white, black, blue, red, and green, and is sold by the foot. ?Peter > On Jun 29, 2020, at 5:49 PM, Larry Gioia via Rhodes22-list wrote: > > Hi, > > My 2014 R22?s jib sheet, main sheet & halyards etc will probably need replacement in a year or 2. Any recommendations for where to get them? I really liked the blue ones that came with the boat when new, not sure where Stan gets them - I assume he doesn?t sell replacements. Peter you mentioned Defender Marine in CT for other items, I like ordering from them as ground deliveries arrive the next day up here in the Adirondacks. > > Thanks! > > Larry > ?14 R22 Language of Love > ?86 R22 > > From markwynn at verizon.net Tue Jun 30 17:04:25 2020 From: markwynn at verizon.net (MARK WYNN) Date: Tue, 30 Jun 2020 17:04:25 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Two unrelated questions In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi Jim We are also on the Magothy River and keep our boat on a boat lift at our house, on the South shore near Dobbin Island. You are very welcome to come over and take a look. One very important lesson that I learned the hard way is that it is critical to tie a line around the boat and tie so that the boat cannot twist under to line and blow onto its side during strong winds. If the boat topside blows onto the steel supports at the base of the guide posts, there will be expensive damage to the topside. Another lesson is that you need to orient the boat so that the mast slot for the IMF is not facing prevailing winds from north or west, or there will be frequent wind noise that is annoying to you and your neighbors. I need to back in the boat so that the slot is facing south, which is cumbersome but possible. Despite these issues, the boatlift makes it very easy to leave from the boat lift in just a few minutes and enjoy a sail. Good luck with your boat. If you like, you can post your contact info and I will give you a call or email. Mark Wynn Windchimes > On Jun 30, 2020, at 9:16 AM, Lowe, Rob wrote: > > Jim, > Seems like wiring on the Rhodes is a challenge. On my boat, none of the wiring is consistent or up to any standards. I don't know if my wiring is factory or PO done. Since my interior was redone, I expect a bit of both. The only wiring diagram I've ever seen is the one Chris Cowie did in his sketchbook, which was recently posted. Since every boat is a bit different than the rest, I would not expect to find a standard wiring diagram. You best bet is to tackle each circuit at a time. In my experience, it seems the ground wire for a particular circuit gets corroded and won't make contact. Do you have a volt meter? It's really hard to work without one. I've had success taking the switches and fuse holders apart and cleaning them. I pull wires off the connectors, clean them, and reconnect them. None of my connectors are covered with heat shrink tubing and are very susceptible to corrosion. On my circuit breaker panel, the negative wire was so corroded the whole panel would not work until I cleaned it. Good luck! - rob > > > ________________________________ > From: Rhodes22-list on behalf of James Schroll > Sent: Monday, June 29, 2020 7:21 PM > To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org > Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Two unrelated questions > > We keep our 1990 Rhodes 22 (refurbished by Stan in 2016) at a neighbors house on the Magothy River (5 miles or so north of Annapolis). She has a boat lift which has become available, but I will clearly need to build some bunks in order to use it. Right now, there are two 3?w x 12?h beams running (parallel to the centerline of the boat) attached to the tow steel I beams of the lift. Does anyone have any experience, plans, dimensions, pictures, or anything else which might guide my creation of a set of bunks? If nothing else, I can try to reproduce the layout of the bunks on our trailer, but actual dimensions/angles would certainly help. > > Secondly, most fo the electrical circuits seem to not be functioning. The batteries are fine and the engine starts immediately, the cabin lights work, and the radio (which does not appear to be wired into the breaker panel works, but the running lights, 12 v outlets, anchoring light, and masthead light are not functioning. Does anyone have wiring diagrams which might be of help? I?m pretty sure that the wiring is not all original (some of the wires leaving the breaker panel are different than those arriving at the lights, suggesting splices and homemade repairs). Any suggestions on how to attack this? > > Thanks, > > Jim Schroll > Pinafore From lgioia at yahoo.com Tue Jun 30 18:14:33 2020 From: lgioia at yahoo.com (Larry Gioia) Date: Tue, 30 Jun 2020 18:14:33 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Recommendations? Where to buy replacement lines In-Reply-To: <43C78572-2789-46A2-8CA2-57F4B0C765D2@sunnybeeches.com> References: <43C78572-2789-46A2-8CA2-57F4B0C765D2@sunnybeeches.com> Message-ID: <8AB66732-0DBC-451B-B3DA-2955E54230F6@yahoo.com> Thanks Peter! I?ve been reading some articles & watching some videos - always dangerous - but polyester braid seems to be a common recommendation. So far the only lines I?ve needed to replace are the one that holds the rudder up out of the water and the one that tightens the 2 backstays together. Luckily the one that controls the daggerboard is in good shape, as it looks pretty tricky to replace. I?m hoping it can be done while the boat is on the stand in the fall & winter (I think the stand was cut from a Triad trailer so same as being on a trailer) - if anyone has a suggestion for doing that I?d be most appreciative. Probably fine for several years but I?d rather do it before it fails. Thanks again! Larry ?14 R22 Language of Love ?86 R22 > On Jun 30, 2020, at 4:20 PM, Peter Nyberg wrote: > > ?Larry, > > Somewhere back in history, someone on the list suggested that what you want for the running rigging on a Rhodes 22 is polyester braid line. Looking at the Defender website, the brand of polyester braid that looks most like what came with my boat is Samson Trophy Braid. A blurb from the product description: > > Samson Trophy Braid is a polyester double-braid with a soft, fuzzy cover that's easy to hold in wet or dry conditions. > > I?m not sure if it?s exactly what Stan uses, but it seems similar. It comes in white, black, blue, red, and green, and is sold by the foot. > > ?Peter > > >> On Jun 29, 2020, at 5:49 PM, Larry Gioia via Rhodes22-list wrote: >> >> Hi, >> >> My 2014 R22?s jib sheet, main sheet & halyards etc will probably need replacement in a year or 2. Any recommendations for where to get them? I really liked the blue ones that came with the boat when new, not sure where Stan gets them - I assume he doesn?t sell replacements. Peter you mentioned Defender Marine in CT for other items, I like ordering from them as ground deliveries arrive the next day up here in the Adirondacks. >> >> Thanks! >> >> Larry >> ?14 R22 Language of Love >> ?86 R22 >> >> >