[Rhodes22-list] Electric Lift Blues

Chris Geankoplis chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com
Tue Sep 8 23:07:31 EDT 2020


Thanks Peter for the explanation.  Yes, a photo of the strip would be
good.  I know that at least one other member's boat had the transom suffer
damage because of the unsupported wheel.  Fortunately, on my new Rhodes the
area between the rails has been repaired and reinforced with lots of
biaxial cloth.  plus an 18 X 18 1/2' marine plywood covered in fiberglass
and 5200ed and thru bolted.  But I still want to see if I can get a track
like yours for the wheel.  I wonder if 3/16 alum flat stock would do the
trick, I think I have some here.  I'll make sure I keep to PDF's and Google
Drive docs from now on.  Thanks again for the info.
Chris G
Enosis

On Tue, Sep 8, 2020 at 9:25 PM Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com> wrote:

> Chris,
>
> I believe what you are seeing is Stan’s design.
>
> The transom is curved.  The motor mount needs to be offset so that it is
> perpendicular to the centerline of the boat, rather than parallel to the
> adjacent section of transom.  That means that the outboard track will be
> set back further off the transom than the inboard track.
>
> I never really noticed, but if the wheel is perpendicular to the mount
> (which seems likely), and thereby parallel with the centerline of the boat,
> it will not hit the transom at a 90 degree angle.  I think this is the way
> it is intended to be.
>
> What seems to be missing on your boat that is present on my boat is a
> place for the wheel to ride. I’ve got a vertical strip of plastic (probably
> Starboard) for the wheel to ride on.  It runs from about the waterline to
> the rub-rail. From memory, it’s about 2” wide and 1/2” thick.  This helps
> distribute the load.  There’s also reinforcement on the inside.  I can take
> pictures tomorrow if you would like.
>
> On a different topic entirely, only certain file types are accepted as
> attachments by the mail-list software.  Word documents apparently don’t
> make the cut.  Most image filetypes do, as well as PDF’s, if that option is
> available to you.
>
> —Peter
>
> > On Sep 8, 2020, at 3:48 PM, Chris Geankoplis <chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com>
> wrote:
> >
> > So I am re-installing the track for the lift and have had the opportunity
> > to really focus on the system. My main focus was the hole and crack in
> the
> > transom but now.......  So anyway the mount seems to be off kilter, not
> > bent but just off.  If you look at the following pictures you can see
> that
> > the sliding mount is not parallel with the transom.  The difference is
> > around 3/4" at the bottom and when raised, 5/8.  As a result the guide
> > wheel is canted so just the right edge is pressed on the transom.  That
> > must act like a pizza cutter on the thin layup on the transom.    There
> is
> > an arch to the transom so the outboard track base should stand off the
> > transom more than the inboard track base.  The outboard base is 4 1/2"
> and
> > the inboard track base is 3 3/8".  Could it be that the outboard track
> is a
> > tad too broad?  Does anyone out there have the same measurements as I do?
> > Is your lift canted like mine?  Any ideas are welcome!
>
>


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