[Rhodes22-list] Newbie question 1

[Tom Van Heule]

Thanks bill, thanks Matt.
I see a lot of solace in the post you posted.  We'll try to keep it in
mind.   And I'll need to get some cupholders it seems.

It is the only time I have heard of condoning an r22 gybe however.  Most
all other posts say never, as does the manual.

Cheers all,

On Sat, Sep 26, 2020, 4:59 PM Matt Berman <matt at mattmail.net> wrote:

> I found this interesting piece in the Archives from 2004. I don't have the
> captain's chairs, alas, it's a 1986, but otherwise seems worth a try:
>
> The Rhodes 22 is a completely unique boat with a set of features not
> available on any other boat.  If these features are right for you, you will
> be thrilled with the boat.  Because the boat is truly unique, many of the
> "tips" "pointers" "warnings" and "rules" you may have read elsewhere simply
> don't apply.
>
> There is no trick to coming about with the 175 on a Rhodes -22.  Most
> people simply release it too early.
>
> You are sitting in the captain's seat on the high side of the boat.  (Get
> the captain's seats.)
>
> On the previous tack you have led the jib sheet around the winch on the
> low side, where the jib is deployed, and then once around the winch on the
> high side, and then into the clam cleat.  The line goes straight across the
> cockpit.
>
> Let us say you are sitting on the port side, in your captain's seat.  You
> have the hiking stick for your tiller in your right hand.  You have a drink
> in your left hand.  Your left arm is on the padding on the stern rail which
> functions like the arm of an extremely comfortable arm chair.  Your feet
> are splayed out on top of the cockpit seats.  Music is playing on your
> stereo.  For some reason you decide to tack.
>
> Push the tiller toward the sail.
>
> Now you must make a momentous decision.  Will you switch captain's seats
> after you tack?  If so, you should place your drink in the cup holder on
> the starboard stern rail--which will force you to get out of your captain's
> seat on the port side.  If not, you may remain seated while you place your
> drink in the cup holder on the port stern rail.  Failure to anticipate this
> question can leave you in a captain's seat with your drink on the other
> side of the boat!  This is the trickiest part of the maneuver.
>
> At some point you will notice that the boom has moved from the starboard
> side to the port side of the boat.  It moved gently across, and did not hit
> your head.  There was no drama.  There was no pandemonium.
>
> You will also notice that the huge belly of the 175 jib, still firmly
> cleated, has sagged across the boat, and you can see it is helping to pull
> the bow about, even before the boom switches sides.
>
> If you sheeted the jib too tightly around the shrouds, the 175 won't help
> you come about.  Slowly loosen the sheet (remember it is cleated right
> below your drinking hand, and you may have to put your drink down--see
> above for caution.)  Wait for the boat to come about.
>
> Please note, you do not fully release the jib until after the boat has
> come about.  The boat is now sailing with the main full, and the jib
> fighting to deploy fully on the other side of the boat.  Slowly release the
> jib on what is now the high side, and pull in the line on what is now the
> low side.  If you decided to stay in your original captain's chair, you are
> still sitting in it, with all of the lines and controls within reach for
> this and every subsequent tack.  If not, you must wrap the jib sheet around
> the winch on what is now the low side, and feed it to the winch and cleat
> on what will be the high side where you will be sitting.
>
> In either case, both jib lines are in your hands.  You release one in a
> controlled manner, and pull the other.  The jib does not drag across the
> foredeck, and it does not hang up on the shrouds.  (I don't have rollers or
> covers on any shrouds.)  It behaves more like a kite over which you have
> complete control, as it floats over the foredeck from one side to the other.
>
> After you've done this a few times, it starts to look like everything is
> happening at once.  But it isn't.  Never release the jib until after the
> boom has gone across and the main is full, and you will never miss a tack.
> Don't let the jib sheet go all at once or you will not be able to pull in
> the jib sheet on the other side quickly enough, and it will get wet.
>
> If this fails to work, there are only 2 possible reasons: either there is
> too little or too much wind.  But not to worry.  Nothing is lost.  Pull the
> hiking stick toward you, and away from the sails.  Release the jib sheet,
> and furl the jib! (Maintain tension on the jib line so the line wraps
> around the roller furler drum properly.)  Pull in the main sheet as far as
> it will go.  Gibe! (or Gybe! or Jibe! or Jybe!--I'm never sure which one it
> is.)
>
> This always works, and will always enable you to come about.  The boat is
> strongly built, and this will not hurt either the rigging or the sails.
> The boom will travel a short distance from one side to the other with a
> loud "pop".  Release the sheet on the main, and redeploy both the main and
> the jib on the correct side.
>
> The 175 should never, ever become fouled on the foredeck or on the
> shrouds.  If it does, chalk it up to operator error.
>
> A lot of words, but a simple procedure that always works.
>
> Always remember Stan's words:  "This is a sailboat.  Let the wind do the
> work"
>
> Bill Effros
>
> Thanks,
>
> --Matt
>
>
>
> > On Sep 26, 2020, at 5:45 PM, Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com>
> wrote:
> >
> > Matt,
> >
> > Welcome to the Rhodes 22 family.
> >
> > I used to have a 175% genoa, and had this problem to some extent.
> >
> > You mention stanchions and lifelines.  My boat doesn’t have these, and I
> think I’m on safe ground saying that most Rhodes 22’s don’t.  You could
> consider getting rid of them.
> >
> > As to shrouds, putting a length of PVC pipe over the turnbuckles and a
> couple of feet of wire will reduce the likelihood of a hang-up there.
> >
> > Also, the ‘proper’ way to rig the jib sheets is to use a single line for
> both port and starboard, attached to the genoa clew with a ‘larks head’ or
> ‘cow hitch’ knot.
> >
> > This season I switched from the 175% genoa to a 135%.  I did this for
> other reasons, but it does seem that the smaller headsail is much less
> likely to get hung up when tacking.
> >
> > Peter Nyberg
> > Coventry, CT
> > s/v Silverheels (1988/2016)
> >
> >> On Sep 26, 2020, at 4:52 PM, Matt Berman <matt at mattmail.net> wrote:
> >>
> >> Hi, all,
> >>
> >> I've been sailing for most of my life, but only just got a Rhodes 22
> this week. I went for my first sail today, light breeze, and encountered a
> number of things that are different from other boats I have sailed. Here's
> the first:
> >>
> >> Every time I came about, the genoa (170) hung up on everything it could
> find -- stanchions, lifelines, shrouds. This was not a minor, momentary
> clip -- it stayed hung up until each time I had to crawl forward and
> release the genoa by hand, not fun when you're single-handing.
> >>
> >> I made sure the sheets were all on the outside of everything, and that
> the sheet on the opposite side was loose and free, and I wasn't standing on
> it (more about that in another post). I tried jiggling both sides, and
> sawing both sheets back and forth to try to release it, but no go.
> >>
> >> Is there some trick or technique you use on a Rhodes to get the genoa
> to move smoothly from one side to the other during a tack? I didn't even
> try a jibe.
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >>
> >> --Matt
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
>
>