[Rhodes22-list] Trailer

[Rick Lange]

If you have the trailer Stan provides, it has a sliding bow crutch.  If so,
pull the crutch all the way forward and winch the boat until you get 100#
on the tongue.  Then snug the crutch to the bow and lock the crutch in
place.

Regards,

Rick Lange


On Mon, May 17, 2021 at 11:41 AM THOMAS POLISE via Rhodes22-list <
rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:

> How can I move forward if bunks are fixed?
>
> > On May 17, 2021, at 11:30 AM, Rick Lange <sloopblueheron at gmail.com>
> wrote:
> >
> > The boat needs to be forward enough on the trailer to put 100# on the
> > tongue.  That will allow a single axle trailer to be towed up to 65mph
> > without fishtailing with a rear axle drive vehicle.
> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > Rick Lange
> >
> >
> >> On Mon, May 17, 2021 at 8:14 AM Steven Alm <stevenalm at gmail.com> wrote:
> >>
> >> Thomas, when I first bought my boat a quarter century ago and towed it
> for
> >> the first time, as soon as I hit 45mph the boat started fishtailing
> wildly
> >> and jerking the vehicle like crazy. Scary as h*ll! I took the motor off
> and
> >> lashed it to the trailer tongue and also loaded other gear as far
> forward
> >> as possible. That helped. But also, when the boat was in the yard (not
> >> connected to the vehicle) if I climbed the boarding ladder the tongue
> would
> >> lift up. I’m only 165 lbs! After a couple years of this and many
> attempts
> >> to load the boat farther up on the trailer I finally popped for a second
> >> axle to be added to the trailer. I added electric breaks too.  Best
> >> thousand bucks I ever spent! It now tracks like a dream without removing
> >> the motor, shifting gear or anything else. It also gives me peace of
> mind
> >> knowing that if I blow a tire or burn a bearing I can safely pull
> over.  I
> >> know some R22s tow just fine on single axle rigs but mine did not and
> >> others, like you have had the same problem. Not all trailers are created
> >> equal. If you plan to do much trailering I highly recommend this fix.
> >>
> >> Steve “Slim” Alm
> >> S/V Fandango
> >>> On Sat, May 1, 2021 at 12:17 AM <cjlowe at sssnet.com> wrote:
> >>>
> >>> Yes, I can see how I could have worded it better. You want the stopper
> "
> >>> arm" pushed all the way toward the tow vehicle .
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>  Jerry Lowe
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Just to clarify, when you say the bow stopper has to be all the way
> back
> >>>> you mean it should be retracted towards the front of the trailer—is
> >> that
> >>>> correct?
> >>>>
> >>>> Michael McKay
> >>>>
> >>>> Sent from my iPhone
> >>>>
> >>>>> On Apr 30, 2021, at 6:41 AM, Mitch Mitchell <mitchpadl at gmail.com>
> >>> wrote:
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Makes sense. Thanks!
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>> On Fri, Apr 30, 2021 at 2:16 AM <cjlowe at sssnet.com> wrote:
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Mitch,
> >>>>>> The bow stopper has to be all the way back so the bow eye doesn't
> >> hit
> >>>>>> the stopper when pulling out of the water. As you start to  pull the
> >>>>>> trailer out of water, the boat is resting on the tip of forward end
> >> of
> >>>>>> the bunks and the aft end of the boat floats a foot or more above
> the
> >>>>>> back end of bunks. As the boat comes out, it rocks back and the bow
> >> of
> >>>>>> the boat raises about a foot, if you don't have the stop all the way
> >>>>>> back, you will rip off the bow eye pad, or worse.
> >>>>>> I like to have the bow eye pad about two inches forward of the bow
> >> for
> >>>>>> travel. The boat will rock almost that much in transit and there is
> >> no
> >>>>>> sense in beating up the bow by putting them tight together.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Jerry Lowe
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> If that’s the case what would be the purpose of an adjustable bow
> >>>>>>> stopper?
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>> On Apr 28, 2021, at 10:50 PM, Peter Nyberg <
> peter at sunnybeeches.com
> >>>
> >>>>>>>> wrote:
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>> I’ll disagree a bit here.  I never move my ‘bow bumper’.
> >>>>>>>> I’ll put my bow as close to it as I can manage while the boat is
> >>>>>>>> still
> >>>>>>>> in the water.  As Charles said, when the boat and trailer are
> >> pulled
> >>>>>>>> out
> >>>>>>>> of the water, the space between the ‘bow bumper’ and the boat
> >>>>>>>> will
> >>>>>>>> increase.  This is inevitable, and not necessarily a problem.
> >> Moving
> >>>>>>>> the ‘bow bumper’ closer to the boat at this point just increases
> >>>>>>>> the
> >>>>>>>> likelihood of damage to the boat in transit.
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>> Peter Nyberg
> >>>>>>>> Coventry, CT
> >>>>>>>> s/v Silverheels (1988/2016)
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>> On Apr 28, 2021, at 10:29 PM, Charles Nieman
> >>>>>>>>> <blue66corvette at hotmail.com> wrote:
> >>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>> Thomas
> >>>>>>>>> You float the boat, slide the bow bumper as far forward as
> >> possible,
> >>>>>>>>> tighten the boat as far to the front as possible. When you drive
> >> out
> >>>>>>>>> of
> >>>>>>>>> the water, the boat will shift to the stern, so the key is to
> keep
> >>>>>>>>> it
> >>>>>>>>> as close to the front as possible. After you get it out of the
> >>>>>>>>> water,
> >>>>>>>>> then you slide the bow bumper back to the boat to reduce bounce.
> >>>>>>>>> It’s
> >>>>>>>>> tricky, and I’ve had to retry a few times but it can be done.
> >>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
> >>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>> Charles
> >>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
>
>