[Rhodes22-list] Trailer

Tue May 18 14:28:23 EDT 2021

Tom, I hear your frustrations.

Keep in mind there are almost limitless engines that could be mounted... I
guess that the trailer was designed with some/none weight on the transom.

I had no issues last year when I got the boat far enough forward.   And
never any issues with the rudder and motor taken off.   We did 75-85mph
with no transom weight from OR to WI.

I shoot for 300lbs of tounge.. I think my boat is "big boned" lol

On Tue, May 18, 2021, 1:23 PM THOMAS POLISE via Rhodes22-list <
rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:

> Im wondering why an expensive ( i recently paid around $4500 for this)
> “custom” trailer by Triad isn’t designed to work properly.  I was told by
> Mike from Triad that everything is fine and that I shouldn’t be towing with
> engine on rear of boat.  I have a 9.9 Yamaha and there is no way I’m easily
> moving that around. I was really disappointed with his response.
>
> > On May 18, 2021, at 1:50 PM, Graham Stewart <gstewart8 at cogeco.ca> wrote:
> >
> > Re: PBR's comment: That is the same problem I have. When I come up the
> ramp the stern lowers and seems to put enormous pressure on the front of
> the bunks. My boat now has permanent "dents" in the hull where the front
> braces for the bunks are located. Stan says these older boats had very thn
> scantlings and that later boats built by him are much less suseptable to
> deforming. I have wondered about rigging something like tie down straps
> attached to the stern rings ans some place forward on the trailer where I
> might winch the boat forward those last few inches without using the bow
> efy and having a downward pressure on the bow. Has anyone done something
> like this?
> >
> >
> > Graham Stewart
> > Agile, Rodes 22, 1976
> > Kingston Ontario
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On
> Behalf Of PBR
> > Sent: Tuesday, May 18, 2021 8:15 AM
> > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
> > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer
> >
> > I definitely want to hear the answer to Graham's question so standing by
> > for that just adding my two cents.
> >
> > I have the same problem getting far enough forward.  As said previously
> the
> > stern floats freely then when you pull the trailer forward that rocks the
> > bow up but also back away from the stop.  I have found this is highly
> > dependent on how steep the ramp is.  Steeper ramp means more problems.
> > Also, the carpet on my bunks is too sticky, once the boat lays down on
> it I
> > can't pull it forward with the winch without fear of pulling out the bow
> > eye.
> >
> >> On Tue, May 18, 2021 at 1:05 AM Graham Stewart <gstewart8 at cogeco.ca>
> wrote:
> >>
> >> I am wondering what all is involved in adding another axel. Is it just a
> >> matter of placing a secod axel behind the current one or do both axels
> need
> >> to be moved to achieve a proper balance?
> >>
> >> Graham Stewart
> >> Agile, Rodes 22, 1976
> >> Kingston Ontario
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On
> Behalf
> >> Of Steven Alm
> >> Sent: Monday, May 17, 2021 8:15 AM
> >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
> >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer
> >>
> >> Thomas, when I first bought my boat a quarter century ago and towed it
> for
> >> the first time, as soon as I hit 45mph the boat started fishtailing
> wildly
> >> and jerking the vehicle like crazy. Scary as h*ll! I took the motor off
> and
> >> lashed it to the trailer tongue and also loaded other gear as far
> forward
> >> as possible. That helped. But also, when the boat was in the yard (not
> >> connected to the vehicle) if I climbed the boarding ladder the tongue
> would
> >> lift up. I’m only 165 lbs! After a couple years of this and many
> attempts
> >> to load the boat farther up on the trailer I finally popped for a second
> >> axle to be added to the trailer. I added electric breaks too.  Best
> >> thousand bucks I ever spent! It now tracks like a dream without removing
> >> the motor, shifting gear or anything else. It also gives me peace of
> mind
> >> knowing that if I blow a tire or burn a bearing I can safely pull
> over.  I
> >> know some R22s tow just fine on single axle rigs but mine did not and
> >> others, like you have had the same problem. Not all trailers are created
> >> equal. If you plan to do much trailering I highly recommend this fix.
> >>
> >> Steve “Slim” Alm
> >> S/V Fandango
> >>> On Sat, May 1, 2021 at 12:17 AM <cjlowe at sssnet.com> wrote:
> >>>
> >>> Yes, I can see how I could have worded it better. You want the stopper
> "
> >>> arm" pushed all the way toward the tow vehicle .
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>  Jerry Lowe
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Just to clarify, when you say the bow stopper has to be all the way
> back
> >>>> you mean it should be retracted towards the front of the trailer—is
> >> that
> >>>> correct?
> >>>>
> >>>> Michael McKay
> >>>>
> >>>> Sent from my iPhone
> >>>>
> >>>>> On Apr 30, 2021, at 6:41 AM, Mitch Mitchell <mitchpadl at gmail.com>
> >>> wrote:
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Makes sense. Thanks!
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>> On Fri, Apr 30, 2021 at 2:16 AM <cjlowe at sssnet.com> wrote:
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Mitch,
> >>>>>> The bow stopper has to be all the way back so the bow eye doesn't
> >> hit
> >>>>>> the stopper when pulling out of the water. As you start to  pull the
> >>>>>> trailer out of water, the boat is resting on the tip of forward end
> >> of
> >>>>>> the bunks and the aft end of the boat floats a foot or more above
> the
> >>>>>> back end of bunks. As the boat comes out, it rocks back and the bow
> >> of
> >>>>>> the boat raises about a foot, if you don't have the stop all the way
> >>>>>> back, you will rip off the bow eye pad, or worse.
> >>>>>> I like to have the bow eye pad about two inches forward of the bow
> >> for
> >>>>>> travel. The boat will rock almost that much in transit and there is
> >> no
> >>>>>> sense in beating up the bow by putting them tight together.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Jerry Lowe
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> If that’s the case what would be the purpose of an adjustable bow
> >>>>>>> stopper?
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>> On Apr 28, 2021, at 10:50 PM, Peter Nyberg <
> peter at sunnybeeches.com
> >>>
> >>>>>>>> wrote:
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>> I’ll disagree a bit here.  I never move my ‘bow bumper’.
> >>>>>>>> I’ll put my bow as close to it as I can manage while the boat is
> >>>>>>>> still
> >>>>>>>> in the water.  As Charles said, when the boat and trailer are
> >> pulled
> >>>>>>>> out
> >>>>>>>> of the water, the space between the ‘bow bumper’ and the boat
> >>>>>>>> will
> >>>>>>>> increase.  This is inevitable, and not necessarily a problem.
> >> Moving
> >>>>>>>> the ‘bow bumper’ closer to the boat at this point just increases
> >>>>>>>> the
> >>>>>>>> likelihood of damage to the boat in transit.
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>> Peter Nyberg
> >>>>>>>> Coventry, CT
> >>>>>>>> s/v Silverheels (1988/2016)
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>> On Apr 28, 2021, at 10:29 PM, Charles Nieman
> >>>>>>>>> <blue66corvette at hotmail.com> wrote:
> >>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>> Thomas
> >>>>>>>>> You float the boat, slide the bow bumper as far forward as
> >> possible,
> >>>>>>>>> tighten the boat as far to the front as possible. When you drive
> >> out
> >>>>>>>>> of
> >>>>>>>>> the water, the boat will shift to the stern, so the key is to
> keep
> >>>>>>>>> it
> >>>>>>>>> as close to the front as possible. After you get it out of the
> >>>>>>>>> water,
> >>>>>>>>> then you slide the bow bumper back to the boat to reduce bounce.
> >>>>>>>>> It’s
> >>>>>>>>> tricky, and I’ve had to retry a few times but it can be done.
> >>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
> >>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>> Charles
> >>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >
>
>