[Rhodes22-list] Motor Shaft Lenghts

Wed Mar 29 19:00:50 EDT 2023

Cary,

The outboard shaft length makes no difference as to whether the rudder blade will interfere with the prop when the tiller is put over hard to starboard (i.e. a hard port turn).  When the rudder blade is down, it can’t hit the prop.  When the rudder blade is  kicked up, it will hit all shaft length props.

S/V Dynamic Equilibrium has a 25” extra long shaft Honda 8 outboard.  I have the GBI motor mount with the manual multipart block & tackle.  I prefer the manual raise/lower mechanism because it doesn’t require electricity.  It’s a simple, easy to troubleshoot mechanism.  I’ve had this motor mount since 2010 and it’s been totally bulletproof.  The attached picture shows the motor mount in the fully lowered position.  Note how far the lower unit is submerged below the waterline.

[cid:image002.jpg at 01D96271.37207200]

Although the GBI outboard motor mount will work with a long shaft engine, the extra long shaft 25” submerges the prop a few inches deeper.  This extra depth provides a significant advantage in preventing cavitation when sailing in waves.  I used to have an Evinrude 6 hp long shaft outboard.  When motoring into waves, prop cavitation was often the limiting factor.  6 bhp was plenty of power; but, you couldn’t couple it to the water to turn the power into thrust when the waves were more than a few feet high.  The extra long shaft motor adds significant capability for motoring into waves.  If you ever find yourself out in foul weather, the extra long shaft adds safety because you can motor off a lee shore and keep the boat out of trouble.  In my opinion, the extra long shaft engine is the only way to go.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium

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From: Mark West via Rhodes22-list<mailto:rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Sent: Wednesday, March 29, 2023 6:28 AM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List<mailto:rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Motor Shaft Lenghts

I have 1989 with electric /tilting lift.  with xl shaft could be just long shaft
    On Wednesday, March 29, 2023 at 09:19:22 AM EDT, Ric Stott <ric at stottarchitecture.com> wrote:

 Cary - I have an ’86 a well with the same motor lift.
I rebuilt my rails 2 years ago and should have extended them upward, past the rub rail that traverses the stern.
I didn’t and it works as it should.
I have a 25 “ shaft Honda 8 that I  bought because I has a 12 anp alternator as opposed to the Yamaha 6 amp.
(And I got a great deal on it)
I don’t think the length of the shaft changes the prop v rudder proximity.
With the rudder fully down, there is never an issue.
If the rudder is kicked up it  can hit the turning prop if you turn hard to portno matter what length shaft you have.
I think the 25” shaft is a better choice because you have more flexibility.
You might have trouble finding one with a power lift, but I wish I had that feature on my Honda and I’m trying to find a 3rd party supplier for an adaptable electric tilt. One issue I found is that the Honda housing is so large, it hits the stern rail when it is tilted up to the last notch and I can’t quite pull it up enough to reach the last notch on the 'holder upper' pin.  As a result, on starboard tack the prop drags in the water with any heal at all.  An electric tilt would solve that problem.
I also added rollers at the bottom of Stan’s manual lift to take the load off the Starboard sliders in the aluminum rails. The rollers reduce the friction and make lifting and lowering the motor a breeze.
BTW
Be sure your wooden bracket is solid.
Although it looked to be fine, the plywood had rotted and mine broke in 2020 - - -  MY YAMAHA went for a final and fatal swim.
I built a new bracket and used clear epoxy on the rim os that I can see if there is any rot inside.
Ric
Sv Dadventure
HBNY

Richard F. Stott, AIA, LEED AP
ric at stottarchitecture.com
O -631-283-1777
C- 516-965-3164

> On Mar 28, 2023, at 11:10 PM, Cary Tolbert <retiredtoby at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> I have an 86 Rhodes with the OLD motor mount system. Manual operation with
> the pulley system. I have replaced the old tracks with aluminum tracks
> replicated by a local machine shop.
> Still the motor fits on the original Starboard material. I currently have a
> 8 HP Yamaha with power thrust , electric start and electric/hydraulic tilt
> which weighs in at approximately 100 lbs. My existing motor has the
> standard sailboat 20 in shaft.  I am thinking about a replacement. I want
> to stick with Yamaha because of the shift control located forward on the
> handle. I have been looking at the 9.9 HP , which comes with a 20 in shaft
> as well as a 25 inch shaft. My main concern is will the 25 inch shaft
> interfere with the rudder? I have seen a 25 in shaft on Lee's S/V At Ease,
> but he has the newer system with the electric rail system to raise and
> lower his motor. SO. . . Does anyone have experience with a 25 inch shaft
> motor on the OLD SYSTEM. Would the 25 inch shaft allow me  NOT to have to
> lower the motor as low  and allow me to have more access to the controls. (
> my theory)  But I will take experience over theory in making a decision.
>
> Thanks as always for the information, you guys are great. I know I can
> always count on Da List for knowledge and decades of experience.
>
> Cary
> S/V Whisper '86
> Claytor Lake , VA

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