From prunicki at icloud.com  Thu May  2 10:37:05 2024
From: prunicki at icloud.com (Michael Pruchnicki)
Date: Thu, 2 May 2024 09:37:05 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Algae in cockpit
Message-ID: <337ABE87-1CAB-4397-8916-F2FA1BE55666@icloud.com>

Greetings

2000 R22 spends the summers on a freshwater lake in Iowa.  I?ve noticed algae growth under the bench seats the 2-3 summers I?ve owned the boat.  No doubt due to standing water, usually after a rain.  Cockpit drains appear to be working well.  I have an Torqeedo OB, which is lighter than an 6hp or more OB.  Other than putting some extra weight on the aft end to tilt the boat slightly more to allow drainage, any ideas?  I was thinking maybe bleach or vinegar spray after a rain. Don?t have any pix. Thanks in advance

Mike
Sent from my iPad

From prunicki at icloud.com  Thu May  2 10:37:05 2024
From: prunicki at icloud.com (Michael Pruchnicki)
Date: Thu, 2 May 2024 09:37:05 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Algae in cockpit
Message-ID: <337ABE87-1CAB-4397-8916-F2FA1BE55666@icloud.com>

Greetings

2000 R22 spends the summers on a freshwater lake in Iowa.  I?ve noticed algae growth under the bench seats the 2-3 summers I?ve owned the boat.  No doubt due to standing water, usually after a rain.  Cockpit drains appear to be working well.  I have an Torqeedo OB, which is lighter than an 6hp or more OB.  Other than putting some extra weight on the aft end to tilt the boat slightly more to allow drainage, any ideas?  I was thinking maybe bleach or vinegar spray after a rain. Don?t have any pix. Thanks in advance

Mike
Sent from my iPad

From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Thu May  2 13:26:24 2024
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Thu, 2 May 2024 17:26:24 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Algae in cockpit
In-Reply-To: <337ABE87-1CAB-4397-8916-F2FA1BE55666@icloud.com>
References: <337ABE87-1CAB-4397-8916-F2FA1BE55666@icloud.com>
Message-ID: <MN2PR10MB4288677AC568FD2C336AB20C80182@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Hi Mike,
Does the area under the cockpit seats drain completely?  If there is any standing water, you will certainly develop algae.

Do you have anything heavy up in the bow - big batteries, always full water tank, holding tank, anchors, extra gas tank ? ?  Think of the boat like a tetter totter.  If you move heavy gear from the bow to the stern, you will change the fore/aft trim and allow the cockpit to drain properly.

The boat is fastest with a slightly bow down trim.  Bow down trim maximizes the water line length and minimizes the drag from the aft section of the hull.  Also, the unloaded hull trims slightly bow down to allow for the additional weight of crew in the cockpit when sailing.  Is there anything heavy you could store in the lazarette compartment and then move to the V-berth when sailing?  Keeping the water tank and holding tank empty when not sailing will help.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium 
1978 Sanford, MI
Sent from my iPhone

> On May 2, 2024, at 10:37?AM, Michael Pruchnicki via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> 
> ?Greetings
> 
> 2000 R22 spends the summers on a freshwater lake in Iowa.  I?ve noticed algae growth under the bench seats the 2-3 summers I?ve owned the boat.  No doubt due to standing water, usually after a rain.  Cockpit drains appear to be working well.  I have an Torqeedo OB, which is lighter than an 6hp or more OB.  Other than putting some extra weight on the aft end to tilt the boat slightly more to allow drainage, any ideas?  I was thinking maybe bleach or vinegar spray after a rain. Don?t have any pix. Thanks in advance
> 
> Mike
> Sent from my iPad

From thyatt at mica.edu  Thu May  2 15:19:39 2024
From: thyatt at mica.edu (Tom Hyatt)
Date: Thu, 2 May 2024 15:19:39 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Electric Motors
Message-ID: <CAEhtY2LXnZyaY-b2fmuSXjGNgyJDYU0aEZ3Se54nTuHGtq1cUQ@mail.gmail.com>

I have been wondering how many Rhodes owners have an electric motor. If you
have one or had one, how pleased are (were) you with it.? What model/brand
did you have?

I have a 6 hp Tohatsu Sailpro that pushes my 78 Rhodes really well at
fairly low RPMs but the idea of not having to mess with that pull cord and
choke seems really appealing.

Any contributions would be most appreciated.

Tom Hyatt
S/V Eliza Jane, 78
Baltimore

From tedlesiecki at gmail.com  Thu May  2 15:43:10 2024
From: tedlesiecki at gmail.com (tedlesiecki at gmail.com)
Date: Thu, 2 May 2024 14:43:10 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Electric Motors
In-Reply-To: <CAEhtY2LXnZyaY-b2fmuSXjGNgyJDYU0aEZ3Se54nTuHGtq1cUQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAEhtY2LXnZyaY-b2fmuSXjGNgyJDYU0aEZ3Se54nTuHGtq1cUQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <FB78D65A-845A-4865-B9B7-0D5352862A74@gmail.com>

Have Spirit 1.0 plus 1kw, 3hp. With remote throttle (no tiller). Hooked it up to the boats tiller steering system. Love it. The battery has 1hr charge at full throttle. If you back down to 25% you get over 3hrs (logical) but boat goes along okay at 25%. Light wind for sunset cruise, put up sails, kick on 25% and it feels like sailing because it?s silent. 

Ted

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 2, 2024, at 2:19?PM, Tom Hyatt via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> 
> ?I have been wondering how many Rhodes owners have an electric motor. If you
> have one or had one, how pleased are (were) you with it.? What model/brand
> did you have?
> 
> I have a 6 hp Tohatsu Sailpro that pushes my 78 Rhodes really well at
> fairly low RPMs but the idea of not having to mess with that pull cord and
> choke seems really appealing.
> 
> Any contributions would be most appreciated.
> 
> Tom Hyatt
> S/V Eliza Jane, 78
> Baltimore

From rweiss at siu.edu  Thu May  2 15:47:23 2024
From: rweiss at siu.edu (Weiss, Robert L)
Date: Thu, 2 May 2024 19:47:23 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Electric Motors
In-Reply-To: <CAEhtY2LXnZyaY-b2fmuSXjGNgyJDYU0aEZ3Se54nTuHGtq1cUQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAEhtY2LXnZyaY-b2fmuSXjGNgyJDYU0aEZ3Se54nTuHGtq1cUQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CH0PR07MB8378E07E15306CFDDBDA23DBC6182@CH0PR07MB8378.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>

I just got this Spirit 1.0 EVO by Epropulsion  a few weeks ago and have only had it out on the water 4 times. So far I'm very pleased.

I used hose clamps to attach the block and pin from my Mercury 8 hp outboard to the back of the handle and it now even works with the tiller connection that Stan built. I can't go as fast as I did with the outboard (6+ mph) but by myself I got up to 4.8 mph and with 2 other guys in the boat yesterday, I got 4.2 mph. At full throttle, it should run for 1 hour, but back off of that and you can run for up to 10 hours. I only sail on Kentucky Lake and only need to motor out of the marina and across the barge channel, so I don't fight currents or big waves. Love that it is almost silent and I no longer have to mess with gas and hope the motor starts.  The battery weighs less than 25 lbs and floats! I no longer need help putting the motor on my boat.

Bob
Beach Spring

[cid:d03d7d1a-f76d-497d-87c7-61163d82c1e0]

Robert L Weiss Jr.
Director of Music
First United Methodist Carbondale, IL
Professor Emeritus, SIUC
________________________________
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of Tom Hyatt via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Sent: Thursday, May 2, 2024 2:19 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Electric Motors

[EXTERNAL EMAIL ALERT]: Verify sender before opening links or attachments.

I have been wondering how many Rhodes owners have an electric motor. If you
have one or had one, how pleased are (were) you with it.? What model/brand
did you have?

I have a 6 hp Tohatsu Sailpro that pushes my 78 Rhodes really well at
fairly low RPMs but the idea of not having to mess with that pull cord and
choke seems really appealing.

Any contributions would be most appreciated.

Tom Hyatt
S/V Eliza Jane, 78
Baltimore
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From shawn.sustain at gmail.com  Thu May  2 16:26:31 2024
From: shawn.sustain at gmail.com (Shawn Boles)
Date: Thu, 2 May 2024 13:26:31 -0700
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Electric Motors
In-Reply-To: <CAEhtY2LXnZyaY-b2fmuSXjGNgyJDYU0aEZ3Se54nTuHGtq1cUQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAEhtY2LXnZyaY-b2fmuSXjGNgyJDYU0aEZ3Se54nTuHGtq1cUQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAMzGxuOi7XNL0e8JKtshk_4pV9+Fyr2mp75P0tr8C_Ma2Q_=ew@mail.gmail.com>

I've had a Torqueedo three horsepower equivalent long shaft for almost 15
years to go in and out of a marina. Had to replace the battery after 10
years and the pin to hold the shaft out of the water broke. The replacement
pin also broke so I cobbled together a block to hold up the shaft. I would
never go back to a gasoline engine.

I think there are several threads in the list that discuss electric motors.


Cheers,
Shawn
S/V Sweet Baboo

On Thu, May 2, 2024, 12:19?PM Tom Hyatt via Rhodes22-list <
rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:

> I have been wondering how many Rhodes owners have an electric motor. If you
> have one or had one, how pleased are (were) you with it.? What model/brand
> did you have?
>
> I have a 6 hp Tohatsu Sailpro that pushes my 78 Rhodes really well at
> fairly low RPMs but the idea of not having to mess with that pull cord and
> choke seems really appealing.
>
> Any contributions would be most appreciated.
>
> Tom Hyatt
> S/V Eliza Jane, 78
> Baltimore
>

From lgioia at yahoo.com  Fri May  3 10:07:06 2024
From: lgioia at yahoo.com (Larry Gioia)
Date: Fri, 3 May 2024 10:07:06 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Electric Motors
In-Reply-To: <CH0PR07MB8378E07E15306CFDDBDA23DBC6182@CH0PR07MB8378.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
References: <CH0PR07MB8378E07E15306CFDDBDA23DBC6182@CH0PR07MB8378.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <E6E1FF31-5C2F-4B21-9511-4B394CB152C9@yahoo.com>

I?ve had the Spirit 1.0 Plus for 2 seasons now, works perfectly for both of my Rhodes, I take it in the car with me in a duffel bag to Lake George NY in the summer and back to Tampa in the winter. Battery separates - the battery & the motor are each 20-22 lbs or so, so much easier as my years advance. I need it to get out of the bay and back to the dock, and occasionally to come back 3 miles or so if the wind dies or has died down & it?s almost dinnertime. Rarely gets below 75% charge.  

So easy to use at a moment?s notice, just twist the throttle, like when needing to go directly upwind between 2 points entering a bay, or on the leeward side of a point or island when guests want to get a look at houses.  

I keep an extra battery on board so my wife won?t be nervous, but never need it. I use it on rowboats in both places too. Also keeps me from having to winterize and maintain 2 outboards.  I?m sure it?s not suitable for ocean use and many-day excursions, but it?s fine for what I do. 

Larry
?
R22 Language of Love 2014
Lake George, NY
?
R22 LOL II  1986
Keystone Lake, Odessa, FL

> On May 2, 2024, at 3:47?PM, Weiss, Robert L via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> 
> ?I just got this Spirit 1.0 EVO by Epropulsion  a few weeks ago and have only had it out on the water 4 times. So far I'm very pleased.
> 
> I used hose clamps to attach the block and pin from my Mercury 8 hp outboard to the back of the handle and it now even works with the tiller connection that Stan built. I can't go as fast as I did with the outboard (6+ mph) but by myself I got up to 4.8 mph and with 2 other guys in the boat yesterday, I got 4.2 mph. At full throttle, it should run for 1 hour, but back off of that and you can run for up to 10 hours. I only sail on Kentucky Lake and only need to motor out of the marina and across the barge channel, so I don't fight currents or big waves. Love that it is almost silent and I no longer have to mess with gas and hope the motor starts.  The battery weighs less than 25 lbs and floats! I no longer need help putting the motor on my boat.
> 
> Bob
> Beach Spring
> 
> [cid:d03d7d1a-f76d-497d-87c7-61163d82c1e0]
> 
> Robert L Weiss Jr.
> Director of Music
> First United Methodist Carbondale, IL
> Professor Emeritus, SIUC
> ________________________________
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of Tom Hyatt via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Sent: Thursday, May 2, 2024 2:19 PM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Electric Motors
> 
> [EXTERNAL EMAIL ALERT]: Verify sender before opening links or attachments.
> 
> I have been wondering how many Rhodes owners have an electric motor. If you
> have one or had one, how pleased are (were) you with it.? What model/brand
> did you have?
> 
> I have a 6 hp Tohatsu Sailpro that pushes my 78 Rhodes really well at
> fairly low RPMs but the idea of not having to mess with that pull cord and
> choke seems really appealing.
> 
> Any contributions would be most appreciated.
> 
> Tom Hyatt
> S/V Eliza Jane, 78
> Baltimore
> -------------- next part --------------
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From recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com  Fri May  3 16:25:23 2024
From: recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com (peter beckerman)
Date: Fri, 3 May 2024 20:25:23 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Drilling into Fiberglass
References: <1964582852.5625289.1714767923007.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1964582852.5625289.1714767923007@mail.yahoo.com>

?Hi All,? ?I haven't gotten any real experience working with fiberglass and need to drill a hole into my cabin top.Is there anything special I should be aware of to avoid chips or cracks?? Any preferred type of drill bit (besides sharp)?? Better to run the bit fast or slow?
Thanks,Peter

From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Fri May  3 16:47:28 2024
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Fri, 3 May 2024 20:47:28 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Drilling into Fiberglass
In-Reply-To: <1964582852.5625289.1714767923007@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1964582852.5625289.1714767923007.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1964582852.5625289.1714767923007@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <MN2PR10MB42882398B4E38FF99870873D801F2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Hi Peter,

Assuming you can get at the back side of the hole, the best practice is to drill a small pilot hole thru first.  Then, drill the final hole diameter, starting on the interior and drill about halfway thru.  Finally, finish the hole from the outside.  Use a sharp spiral bit and don?t use a wood boring spade bit.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium 
1978 Sanford, MI

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 3, 2024, at 4:25?PM, peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> 
> ? Hi All,   I haven't gotten any real experience working with fiberglass and need to drill a hole into my cabin top.Is there anything special I should be aware of to avoid chips or cracks?  Any preferred type of drill bit (besides sharp)?  Better to run the bit fast or slow?
> Thanks,Peter

From talbotpratt at gmail.com  Fri May  3 17:08:58 2024
From: talbotpratt at gmail.com (Talbot Pratt)
Date: Fri, 3 May 2024 17:08:58 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Can you list this for me for sale?
Message-ID: <CAFhmpdGkJuu-HgTExsXLBF1dvQP-UYUH4eCsYjNBTumHszWAFA@mail.gmail.com>

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/950826213109867/?mibextid=dXMIcH

Thanks
Talbot

From mweisner at ebsmed.com  Fri May  3 17:17:12 2024
From: mweisner at ebsmed.com (Michael D. Weisner)
Date: Fri, 3 May 2024 17:17:12 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Can you list this for me for sale?
In-Reply-To: <CAFhmpdGkJuu-HgTExsXLBF1dvQP-UYUH4eCsYjNBTumHszWAFA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFhmpdGkJuu-HgTExsXLBF1dvQP-UYUH4eCsYjNBTumHszWAFA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000a01da9d9f$446dac10$cd490430$@ebsmed.com>

You just did!

Mike
s/v Wind Lass ('91)
Nissequogue River, NY
I?d rather be sailing :~)

-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of Talbot Pratt
Sent: Friday, May 3, 2024 5:09 PM
To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Can you list this for me for sale?

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/950826213109867/?mibextid=dXMIcH

Thanks
Talbot


From recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com  Fri May  3 17:37:13 2024
From: recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com (peter beckerman)
Date: Fri, 03 May 2024 17:37:13 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Drilling into Fiberglass
Message-ID: <E1s30af-002zPM-0W@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

Thanks Roger!

[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]


From sea20 at verizon.net  Fri May  3 17:59:11 2024
From: sea20 at verizon.net (sea20 at verizon.net)
Date: Fri, 3 May 2024 21:59:11 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Bench drains
References: <1521746375.3725811.1714773551966.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1521746375.3725811.1714773551966@mail.yahoo.com>

Greetings all, another drilling question. Has anyone ever drill additional bench drain hole on the inside trough of the bench? I'm thinking a drain hole before the lazzerette would allow water to drain to the floor drain of the cockpit. Debris hopefully would continue to the stern where clogs seem to occur frequently. (I had some bad flooding thhis year.)Scott Andrews

From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Fri May  3 18:39:39 2024
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Fri, 3 May 2024 22:39:39 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Bench drains
In-Reply-To: <1521746375.3725811.1714773551966@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1521746375.3725811.1714773551966.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1521746375.3725811.1714773551966@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <MN2PR10MB42885AA62552987163CDD18E801F2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Hi Scott,

I drilled a couple of extra drain holes in the troughs like you suggest.  When they are clear, the new holes do allow quite a bit of water to drop down to the cockpit sole.  Unfortunately, these new holes are also subject to clogging, at least as bad as the drains on the aft end of the cockpit.  In my experience, the only solution is eternal vigilance at keeping the drain troughs as clean as possible.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
1978  Sanford, MI

________________________________
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of sea20--- via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Sent: Friday, May 3, 2024 5:59 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Bench drains

Greetings all, another drilling question. Has anyone ever drill additional bench drain hole on the inside trough of the bench? I'm thinking a drain hole before the lazzerette would allow water to drain to the floor drain of the cockpit. Debris hopefully would continue to the stern where clogs seem to occur frequently. (I had some bad flooding thhis year.)Scott Andrews

From gstewart.gm at gmail.com  Fri May  3 20:22:26 2024
From: gstewart.gm at gmail.com (Graham Stewart)
Date: Fri, 3 May 2024 20:22:26 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Drilling into Fiberglass
In-Reply-To: <MN2PR10MB42882398B4E38FF99870873D801F2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <1964582852.5625289.1714767923007.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1964582852.5625289.1714767923007@mail.yahoo.com>
 <MN2PR10MB42882398B4E38FF99870873D801F2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CACdaeT6sfhtyM=LNLOq9Uxa5q1G2du0LnWEfXey2=MqG9CYUBg@mail.gmail.com>

I enlarged the existing holes. I think I used a step bit.

Graham Stewart
Agile 1976
gstewart.gm at gmail.com


On Fri, May 3, 2024 at 5:24 PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:

> Hi Peter,
>
> Assuming you can get at the back side of the hole, the best practice is to
> drill a small pilot hole thru first.  Then, drill the final hole diameter,
> starting on the interior and drill about halfway thru.  Finally, finish the
> hole from the outside.  Use a sharp spiral bit and don?t use a wood boring
> spade bit.
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> 1978 Sanford, MI
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On May 3, 2024, at 4:25?PM, peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list <
> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> >
> > ? Hi All,   I haven't gotten any real experience working with fiberglass
> and need to drill a hole into my cabin top.Is there anything special I
> should be aware of to avoid chips or cracks?  Any preferred type of drill
> bit (besides sharp)?  Better to run the bit fast or slow?
> > Thanks,Peter
>

From gstewart.gm at gmail.com  Fri May  3 23:14:32 2024
From: gstewart.gm at gmail.com (Graham Stewart)
Date: Sat, 4 May 2024 03:14:32 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Bench drains
In-Reply-To: <1521746375.3725811.1714773551966@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1521746375.3725811.1714773551966.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1521746375.3725811.1714773551966@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <PH7PR12MB81539E6F8416D9DED966C8C4F51E2@PH7PR12MB8153.namprd12.prod.outlook.com>

My boat had drain holes near the front of the bench seat and near the lazarette.  I enlarged them. One thing to note is that water going through the aft hole can run along the underside of the seat and drip into the lazarette. A bit of sealant aft of the hole should break the surface tension so that water does not travel aft.



Graham Stewart
Rhodes 22
Agile, 1076
________________________________
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of sea20--- via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Sent: Friday, May 3, 2024 5:59 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Bench drains

Greetings all, another drilling question. Has anyone ever drill additional bench drain hole on the inside trough of the bench? I'm thinking a drain hole before the lazzerette would allow water to drain to the floor drain of the cockpit. Debris hopefully would continue to the stern where clogs seem to occur frequently. (I had some bad flooding thhis year.)Scott Andrews

From peter at sunnybeeches.com  Sat May  4 17:06:02 2024
From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg)
Date: Sat, 04 May 2024 17:06:02 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Pipe Insulation in the Mast
Message-ID: <E1s3Ma2-00GBZS-11@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

So, I ran my new 3-conductor wire up the mast, encased in foam pipe insulation, and this is my report on that process.

First, I want to say that when I pulled my old wires out of the mast I found that the zip-ties I used when I installed them to try to eliminate slapping were obviously too small and flimsy to do the job.  I took one look at them, shook my head, and said to myself ?what was I thinking??.  Based on this finding, and reports from other boat owners, I?m perfectly willing to believe that the zip-tie solution to the wire slapping problem can work if properly implemented.  But, by the time of this discovery I was already committed to the the pipe insulation approach.

To start at the beginning, when I arrived at the pipe insulation section of my local Home Depot, I  found that it comes in two sizes: 1/2? and 3/4?.  I chose 1/2?, which turned out to be correct.  It just fit into the channel in the IMF mast.  Four 3? sections come in a package, so 2 packages is about the perfect amount for the job.  I ended up using 12? of insulation above the spreaders, and about 11? 4? below.

After getting the mast set up on a couple of saw-horses I did some disassembling. I removed the top plate, and the assembly that houses the sheaves for the halyards.  I also removed the spreader bases, and the through-bolt that attaches them to the mast.  And I removed any other hardware that had screws or bolts that projected into the mast?s wire channel.  

Next, I laid out the wire along side the mast, and made marks on the wire to help in positioning the insulation. The main focus here was that I wanted to leave a gap in the insulation at the spreaders so that it wouldn?t be in the way when it came time to reinsert the through-bolt.

The installation approach was to insert at the bottom, and pull toward the top.  Sections of insulation would be zip-tied around the wire before insertion.  After a test run with one piece of insulation, it became clear that the biggest challenge was going to be keeping the insulation in a fixed position on the wire.  

The technique that ended up meeting the challenge had multiple steps:
  
    1) select a spot on the wire about 6? below where the top end of the insulation section will be
    2) take 6 - 8 wraps of electrical tape around the wire at this point, creating a ?bump?
    3) place a small zip-tie around the wire _above_ the electrical tape; pull tight, clip off excess
        (this creates another ?bump?)
    4) position insulation section around wire
    5) place a zip-tie around the insulation so that it is just  _above_ the inner zip-tie and tape
    6) place a second outer zip-tie 4-6? from the bottom of the section of insulation
    7) pull both outer zip-ties as tight as you can (use pliers for a better grip); trim off excess
    8) from the top of the mast, pull 3? of wire and insulation into the mast
    9) repeat

Note that ??top? and ?above? means closer to the top of the mast.

Once I had the technique down, things went pretty quickly.  Now I just have to put the mast back together.

Peter Nyberg
Coventry, CT
s/v Silverheels (1988/2016)


[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]


From tavares0947 at gmail.com  Sat May  4 19:05:48 2024
From: tavares0947 at gmail.com (Todd Tavares)
Date: Sat, 4 May 2024 19:05:48 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Bench drains
In-Reply-To: <1521746375.3725811.1714773551966@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1521746375.3725811.1714773551966.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1521746375.3725811.1714773551966@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAB-twMMoSgOMXz9rfkX1GOnJL4bqrcy1R=BKOyN1ZNnLtg1qxQ@mail.gmail.com>

The ULTIMATE solution...for me anyway, would be to have the lip of the
lazarette extend an inch or two higher than the seat gutter lips. Then it
wouldn't really matter if the seat drains clogged, and the laz and bilge
would be drier.
I only got as far as increasing the size of the drain tubes and fittings.
Oh well, maybe that will be a project for retirement.

Todd T



On Fri, May 3, 2024, 5:59 PM sea20--- via Rhodes22-list <
rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:

> Greetings all, another drilling question. Has anyone ever drill additional
> bench drain hole on the inside trough of the bench? I'm thinking a drain
> hole before the lazzerette would allow water to drain to the floor drain of
> the cockpit. Debris hopefully would continue to the stern where clogs seem
> to occur frequently. (I had some bad flooding thhis year.)Scott Andrews
>

From chitakcheung at gmail.com  Sun May  5 07:48:20 2024
From: chitakcheung at gmail.com (Patrick Cheung)
Date: Sun, 5 May 2024 07:48:20 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Bench drains
In-Reply-To: <CAB-twMMoSgOMXz9rfkX1GOnJL4bqrcy1R=BKOyN1ZNnLtg1qxQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1521746375.3725811.1714773551966.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1521746375.3725811.1714773551966@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAB-twMMoSgOMXz9rfkX1GOnJL4bqrcy1R=BKOyN1ZNnLtg1qxQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANexfAnF502iSRdUKOTJH9pPKg7OC+o1DQ5MqLa7asJaq5O6PQ@mail.gmail.com>

I applied 1" wide closed cell foam tape to the underside of the lazarette
hatch at the hatch and lip contact point. I also found a pin size
through-hole at the gutter behind the hatch cover, I put a tape over it.
Between these two actions, I have significantly less rain water in
lazarette.

patrick


On Sat, May 4, 2024 at 7:06?PM Todd Tavares <tavares0947 at gmail.com> wrote:

> The ULTIMATE solution...for me anyway, would be to have the lip of the
> lazarette extend an inch or two higher than the seat gutter lips. Then it
> wouldn't really matter if the seat drains clogged, and the laz and bilge
> would be drier.
> I only got as far as increasing the size of the drain tubes and fittings.
> Oh well, maybe that will be a project for retirement.
>
> Todd T
>
>
>
> On Fri, May 3, 2024, 5:59 PM sea20--- via Rhodes22-list <
> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>
> > Greetings all, another drilling question. Has anyone ever drill
> additional
> > bench drain hole on the inside trough of the bench? I'm thinking a drain
> > hole before the lazzerette would allow water to drain to the floor drain
> of
> > the cockpit. Debris hopefully would continue to the stern where clogs
> seem
> > to occur frequently. (I had some bad flooding thhis year.)Scott Andrews
> >
>

From goldsmith.cf at gmail.com  Sun May  5 08:52:11 2024
From: goldsmith.cf at gmail.com (Frank Goldsmith)
Date: Sun, 5 May 2024 08:52:11 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Electric Motors
In-Reply-To: <CAMzGxuOi7XNL0e8JKtshk_4pV9+Fyr2mp75P0tr8C_Ma2Q_=ew@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAEhtY2LXnZyaY-b2fmuSXjGNgyJDYU0aEZ3Se54nTuHGtq1cUQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAMzGxuOi7XNL0e8JKtshk_4pV9+Fyr2mp75P0tr8C_Ma2Q_=ew@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <10F2A3FD-4FCF-48A6-8B3C-9D434CFCBF43@gmail.com>

We also have a Torqeedo 3 hp equivalent, long shaft, and like it very much.  It?s German-made and seems to be of good build quality.  I take the battery home with me and charge it as needed before heading to the marina.  

Frank Goldsmith
S/V Mary Bess (Rhodes 22 1985/2001)
Fairview, NC
Lake Keowee, SC


> On May 2, 2024, at 4:26?PM, Shawn Boles <shawn.sustain at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> I've had a Torqueedo three horsepower equivalent long shaft for almost 15
> years to go in and out of a marina. Had to replace the battery after 10
> years and the pin to hold the shaft out of the water broke. The replacement
> pin also broke so I cobbled together a block to hold up the shaft. I would
> never go back to a gasoline engine.
> 
> I think there are several threads in the list that discuss electric motors.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> Shawn
> S/V Sweet Baboo
> 
> On Thu, May 2, 2024, 12:19?PM Tom Hyatt via Rhodes22-list <
> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> 
>> I have been wondering how many Rhodes owners have an electric motor. If you
>> have one or had one, how pleased are (were) you with it.? What model/brand
>> did you have?
>> 
>> I have a 6 hp Tohatsu Sailpro that pushes my 78 Rhodes really well at
>> fairly low RPMs but the idea of not having to mess with that pull cord and
>> choke seems really appealing.
>> 
>> Any contributions would be most appreciated.
>> 
>> Tom Hyatt
>> S/V Eliza Jane, 78
>> Baltimore
>> 


From jmsnadorjr at gmail.com  Sun May  5 09:46:47 2024
From: jmsnadorjr at gmail.com (joseph nador)
Date: Sun, 5 May 2024 09:46:47 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Electric Motors
In-Reply-To: <10F2A3FD-4FCF-48A6-8B3C-9D434CFCBF43@gmail.com>
References: <CAEhtY2LXnZyaY-b2fmuSXjGNgyJDYU0aEZ3Se54nTuHGtq1cUQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAMzGxuOi7XNL0e8JKtshk_4pV9+Fyr2mp75P0tr8C_Ma2Q_=ew@mail.gmail.com>
 <10F2A3FD-4FCF-48A6-8B3C-9D434CFCBF43@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CABkND0A=X2Yz=QkuHArKz6Ke8WH-4vsZ+L1rVNqPwjJxShL93A@mail.gmail.com>

How do they do in the chop, white caps and current when you are in the bay
or coastal?

Joe Nador
S/V Respite  (Rhodes 22 1989)
Brightweaters , NY

On Sun, May 5, 2024 at 8:52?AM Frank Goldsmith <goldsmith.cf at gmail.com>
wrote:

> We also have a Torqeedo 3 hp equivalent, long shaft, and like it very
> much.  It?s German-made and seems to be of good build quality.  I take the
> battery home with me and charge it as needed before heading to the marina.
>
> Frank Goldsmith
> S/V Mary Bess (Rhodes 22 1985/2001)
> Fairview, NC
> Lake Keowee, SC
>
>
> > On May 2, 2024, at 4:26?PM, Shawn Boles <shawn.sustain at gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > I've had a Torqueedo three horsepower equivalent long shaft for almost 15
> > years to go in and out of a marina. Had to replace the battery after 10
> > years and the pin to hold the shaft out of the water broke. The
> replacement
> > pin also broke so I cobbled together a block to hold up the shaft. I
> would
> > never go back to a gasoline engine.
> >
> > I think there are several threads in the list that discuss electric
> motors.
> >
> >
> > Cheers,
> > Shawn
> > S/V Sweet Baboo
> >
> > On Thu, May 2, 2024, 12:19?PM Tom Hyatt via Rhodes22-list <
> > rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> >
> >> I have been wondering how many Rhodes owners have an electric motor. If
> you
> >> have one or had one, how pleased are (were) you with it.? What
> model/brand
> >> did you have?
> >>
> >> I have a 6 hp Tohatsu Sailpro that pushes my 78 Rhodes really well at
> >> fairly low RPMs but the idea of not having to mess with that pull cord
> and
> >> choke seems really appealing.
> >>
> >> Any contributions would be most appreciated.
> >>
> >> Tom Hyatt
> >> S/V Eliza Jane, 78
> >> Baltimore
> >>
>
>

From goldsmith.cf at gmail.com  Sun May  5 09:48:10 2024
From: goldsmith.cf at gmail.com (Frank Goldsmith)
Date: Sun, 5 May 2024 09:48:10 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Electric Motors
In-Reply-To: <CABkND0A=X2Yz=QkuHArKz6Ke8WH-4vsZ+L1rVNqPwjJxShL93A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAEhtY2LXnZyaY-b2fmuSXjGNgyJDYU0aEZ3Se54nTuHGtq1cUQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAMzGxuOi7XNL0e8JKtshk_4pV9+Fyr2mp75P0tr8C_Ma2Q_=ew@mail.gmail.com>
 <10F2A3FD-4FCF-48A6-8B3C-9D434CFCBF43@gmail.com>
 <CABkND0A=X2Yz=QkuHArKz6Ke8WH-4vsZ+L1rVNqPwjJxShL93A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <E712C193-583B-47D2-9308-1872C4319E7C@gmail.com>

That hasn?t been an issue for me in the inland mountain lake where I sail; can?t answer about coastal waters.  

Frank

> On May 5, 2024, at 9:46?AM, joseph nador <jmsnadorjr at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> How do they do in the chop, white caps and current when you are in the bay
> or coastal?
> 
> Joe Nador
> S/V Respite  (Rhodes 22 1989)
> Brightweaters , NY
> 
> On Sun, May 5, 2024 at 8:52?AM Frank Goldsmith <goldsmith.cf at gmail.com>
> wrote:
> 
>> We also have a Torqeedo 3 hp equivalent, long shaft, and like it very
>> much.  It?s German-made and seems to be of good build quality.  I take the
>> battery home with me and charge it as needed before heading to the marina.
>> 
>> Frank Goldsmith
>> S/V Mary Bess (Rhodes 22 1985/2001)
>> Fairview, NC
>> Lake Keowee, SC
>> 
>> 
>>> On May 2, 2024, at 4:26?PM, Shawn Boles <shawn.sustain at gmail.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> I've had a Torqueedo three horsepower equivalent long shaft for almost 15
>>> years to go in and out of a marina. Had to replace the battery after 10
>>> years and the pin to hold the shaft out of the water broke. The
>> replacement
>>> pin also broke so I cobbled together a block to hold up the shaft. I
>> would
>>> never go back to a gasoline engine.
>>> 
>>> I think there are several threads in the list that discuss electric
>> motors.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Cheers,
>>> Shawn
>>> S/V Sweet Baboo
>>> 
>>> On Thu, May 2, 2024, 12:19?PM Tom Hyatt via Rhodes22-list <
>>> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>>> 
>>>> I have been wondering how many Rhodes owners have an electric motor. If
>> you
>>>> have one or had one, how pleased are (were) you with it.? What
>> model/brand
>>>> did you have?
>>>> 
>>>> I have a 6 hp Tohatsu Sailpro that pushes my 78 Rhodes really well at
>>>> fairly low RPMs but the idea of not having to mess with that pull cord
>> and
>>>> choke seems really appealing.
>>>> 
>>>> Any contributions would be most appreciated.
>>>> 
>>>> Tom Hyatt
>>>> S/V Eliza Jane, 78
>>>> Baltimore
>>>> 
>> 
>> 


From markwynn at verizon.net  Sun May  5 10:08:45 2024
From: markwynn at verizon.net (Mark Wynn)
Date: Sun, 5 May 2024 14:08:45 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Electric Motors
In-Reply-To: <E712C193-583B-47D2-9308-1872C4319E7C@gmail.com>
References: <CAEhtY2LXnZyaY-b2fmuSXjGNgyJDYU0aEZ3Se54nTuHGtq1cUQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAMzGxuOi7XNL0e8JKtshk_4pV9+Fyr2mp75P0tr8C_Ma2Q_=ew@mail.gmail.com>
 <10F2A3FD-4FCF-48A6-8B3C-9D434CFCBF43@gmail.com>
 <CABkND0A=X2Yz=QkuHArKz6Ke8WH-4vsZ+L1rVNqPwjJxShL93A@mail.gmail.com>
 <E712C193-583B-47D2-9308-1872C4319E7C@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1978480306.3888493.1714918125023@mail.yahoo.com>

 I had a Torqeedo for one day on the open Magothy River, off the Chesapeake, and found it to be ?underpowered with inadequate range for my area. I traded for a 6 hp outboard, which I don't like either because of difficulty starting. So make your own trade offs. Good luck.?
Mark WynnS/V Windchimes

    On Sunday, May 5, 2024 at 09:48:25 AM EDT, Frank Goldsmith <goldsmith.cf at gmail.com> wrote:   

 That hasn?t been an issue for me in the inland mountain lake where I sail; can?t answer about coastal waters.? 

Frank

> On May 5, 2024, at 9:46?AM, joseph nador <jmsnadorjr at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> How do they do in the chop, white caps and current when you are in the bay
> or coastal?
> 
> Joe Nador
> S/V Respite? (Rhodes 22 1989)
> Brightweaters , NY
> 
> On Sun, May 5, 2024 at 8:52?AM Frank Goldsmith <goldsmith.cf at gmail.com>
> wrote:
> 
>> We also have a Torqeedo 3 hp equivalent, long shaft, and like it very
>> much.? It?s German-made and seems to be of good build quality.? I take the
>> battery home with me and charge it as needed before heading to the marina.
>> 
>> Frank Goldsmith
>> S/V Mary Bess (Rhodes 22 1985/2001)
>> Fairview, NC
>> Lake Keowee, SC
>> 
>> 
>>> On May 2, 2024, at 4:26?PM, Shawn Boles <shawn.sustain at gmail.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> I've had a Torqueedo three horsepower equivalent long shaft for almost 15
>>> years to go in and out of a marina. Had to replace the battery after 10
>>> years and the pin to hold the shaft out of the water broke. The
>> replacement
>>> pin also broke so I cobbled together a block to hold up the shaft. I
>> would
>>> never go back to a gasoline engine.
>>> 
>>> I think there are several threads in the list that discuss electric
>> motors.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Cheers,
>>> Shawn
>>> S/V Sweet Baboo
>>> 
>>> On Thu, May 2, 2024, 12:19?PM Tom Hyatt via Rhodes22-list <
>>> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>>> 
>>>> I have been wondering how many Rhodes owners have an electric motor. If
>> you
>>>> have one or had one, how pleased are (were) you with it.? What
>> model/brand
>>>> did you have?
>>>> 
>>>> I have a 6 hp Tohatsu Sailpro that pushes my 78 Rhodes really well at
>>>> fairly low RPMs but the idea of not having to mess with that pull cord
>> and
>>>> choke seems really appealing.
>>>> 
>>>> Any contributions would be most appreciated.
>>>> 
>>>> Tom Hyatt
>>>> S/V Eliza Jane, 78
>>>> Baltimore
>>>> 
>> 
>> 

  

From davidmberg at mac.com  Sun May  5 14:21:38 2024
From: davidmberg at mac.com (DAVID BERG)
Date: Sun, 5 May 2024 13:21:38 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Wiring documentation - adding combination deck and
	steaming light
In-Reply-To: <1978480306.3888493.1714918125023@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <CAEhtY2LXnZyaY-b2fmuSXjGNgyJDYU0aEZ3Se54nTuHGtq1cUQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAMzGxuOi7XNL0e8JKtshk_4pV9+Fyr2mp75P0tr8C_Ma2Q_=ew@mail.gmail.com>
 <10F2A3FD-4FCF-48A6-8B3C-9D434CFCBF43@gmail.com>
 <CABkND0A=X2Yz=QkuHArKz6Ke8WH-4vsZ+L1rVNqPwjJxShL93A@mail.gmail.com>
 <E712C193-583B-47D2-9308-1872C4319E7C@gmail.com>
 <1978480306.3888493.1714918125023@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <AD6E4D67-1E3C-45A5-8240-419BE6730A41@mac.com>

I?m about to attempt to service and upgrade the masthead light situation on my 1996/200? Rhodes 22. I haven?t gone into full troubleshooting mode, but Initial forrays into the circuit panel left me scratching my head a bit. This was a couple of years ago, so I don?t remember exactly what I had found.

I have found some helpful diagrams in the archive, particularly those drawn by Cris Cowie, which have shed light on wiring issues.

I?m contemplating adding a combination steaming/deck light, so I can probably relegate the masthead light to anchor-light duty only. I believe it was/is originally intended to serve as both steaming and anchor light. I?m wondering if anyone else has any wiring diagrams or information to share regarding wiring documentation on the 1990s vintage Rhodes.

Thanks,
David Berg
Minneapolis, MN
s/v Blue Loon (1996/200?)

PS: Thanks, Peter, for the info on the wire slapping fix. I think I may still use zip ties, but your knowledge is useful, as always.

From dean at deanpatent.com  Sun May  5 21:19:56 2024
From: dean at deanpatent.com (dean)
Date: Sun, 05 May 2024 21:19:56 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Electric Motors
In-Reply-To: <1978480306.3888493.1714918125023@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <CAEhtY2LXnZyaY-b2fmuSXjGNgyJDYU0aEZ3Se54nTuHGtq1cUQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAMzGxuOi7XNL0e8JKtshk_4pV9+Fyr2mp75P0tr8C_Ma2Q_=ew@mail.gmail.com>
 <10F2A3FD-4FCF-48A6-8B3C-9D434CFCBF43@gmail.com>
 <CABkND0A=X2Yz=QkuHArKz6Ke8WH-4vsZ+L1rVNqPwjJxShL93A@mail.gmail.com>
 <E712C193-583B-47D2-9308-1872C4319E7C@gmail.com>
 <1978480306.3888493.1714918125023@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <95ff02a6638236f47c16cc98ea41d4c8@deanpatent.com>

Was this a Torqeedo 3 hp??

Many thanks, Dean


On 2024-05-05 10:08, Mark Wynn via Rhodes22-list wrote:
> I had a Torqeedo for one day on the open Magothy River, off the 
> Chesapeake, and found it to be ?underpowered with inadequate range for 
> my area. I traded for a 6 hp outboard, which I don't like either 
> because of difficulty starting. So make your own trade offs. Good 
> luck.?
> Mark WynnS/V Windchimes
> 
>     On Sunday, May 5, 2024 at 09:48:25 AM EDT, Frank Goldsmith 
> <goldsmith.cf at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
>  That hasn?t been an issue for me in the inland mountain lake where I 
> sail; can?t answer about coastal waters.?
> 
> Frank
> 
>> On May 5, 2024, at 9:46?AM, joseph nador <jmsnadorjr at gmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>> How do they do in the chop, white caps and current when you are in the 
>> bay
>> or coastal?
>> 
>> Joe Nador
>> S/V Respite? (Rhodes 22 1989)
>> Brightweaters , NY
>> 
>> On Sun, May 5, 2024 at 8:52?AM Frank Goldsmith 
>> <goldsmith.cf at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>> 
>>> We also have a Torqeedo 3 hp equivalent, long shaft, and like it very
>>> much.? It?s German-made and seems to be of good build quality.? I 
>>> take the
>>> battery home with me and charge it as needed before heading to the 
>>> marina.
>>> 
>>> Frank Goldsmith
>>> S/V Mary Bess (Rhodes 22 1985/2001)
>>> Fairview, NC
>>> Lake Keowee, SC
>>> 
>>> 
>>>> On May 2, 2024, at 4:26?PM, Shawn Boles <shawn.sustain at gmail.com> 
>>>> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> I've had a Torqueedo three horsepower equivalent long shaft for 
>>>> almost 15
>>>> years to go in and out of a marina. Had to replace the battery after 
>>>> 10
>>>> years and the pin to hold the shaft out of the water broke. The
>>> replacement
>>>> pin also broke so I cobbled together a block to hold up the shaft. I
>>> would
>>>> never go back to a gasoline engine.
>>>> 
>>>> I think there are several threads in the list that discuss electric
>>> motors.
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> Cheers,
>>>> Shawn
>>>> S/V Sweet Baboo
>>>> 
>>>> On Thu, May 2, 2024, 12:19?PM Tom Hyatt via Rhodes22-list <
>>>> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>>> I have been wondering how many Rhodes owners have an electric 
>>>>> motor. If
>>> you
>>>>> have one or had one, how pleased are (were) you with it.? What
>>> model/brand
>>>>> did you have?
>>>>> 
>>>>> I have a 6 hp Tohatsu Sailpro that pushes my 78 Rhodes really well 
>>>>> at
>>>>> fairly low RPMs but the idea of not having to mess with that pull 
>>>>> cord
>>> and
>>>>> choke seems really appealing.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Any contributions would be most appreciated.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Tom Hyatt
>>>>> S/V Eliza Jane, 78
>>>>> Baltimore
>>>>> 
>>> 
>>> 

From rweiss at siu.edu  Sun May  5 21:38:32 2024
From: rweiss at siu.edu (Weiss, Robert L)
Date: Mon, 6 May 2024 01:38:32 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Electric Motors
In-Reply-To: <95ff02a6638236f47c16cc98ea41d4c8@deanpatent.com>
References: <CAEhtY2LXnZyaY-b2fmuSXjGNgyJDYU0aEZ3Se54nTuHGtq1cUQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAMzGxuOi7XNL0e8JKtshk_4pV9+Fyr2mp75P0tr8C_Ma2Q_=ew@mail.gmail.com>
 <10F2A3FD-4FCF-48A6-8B3C-9D434CFCBF43@gmail.com>
 <CABkND0A=X2Yz=QkuHArKz6Ke8WH-4vsZ+L1rVNqPwjJxShL93A@mail.gmail.com>
 <E712C193-583B-47D2-9308-1872C4319E7C@gmail.com>
 <1978480306.3888493.1714918125023@mail.yahoo.com>
 <95ff02a6638236f47c16cc98ea41d4c8@deanpatent.com>
Message-ID: <CH0PR07MB8378FF78E1BBA8A24DEFC923C61C2@CH0PR07MB8378.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>

This is an Epropulsion Spirit 1.0 EVO. A 3 hp equivalent.

Robert L Weiss Jr.
Director of Music
First United Methodist Carbondale, IL
Professor Emeritus, SIUC

________________________________
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of dean <dean at deanpatent.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 5, 2024 8:19:56 PM
To: Mark Wynn <markwynn at verizon.net>; The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Electric Motors

[EXTERNAL EMAIL ALERT]: Verify sender before opening links or attachments.

Was this a Torqeedo 3 hp??

Many thanks, Dean


On 2024-05-05 10:08, Mark Wynn via Rhodes22-list wrote:
> I had a Torqeedo for one day on the open Magothy River, off the
> Chesapeake, and found it to be  underpowered with inadequate range for
> my area. I traded for a 6 hp outboard, which I don't like either
> because of difficulty starting. So make your own trade offs. Good
> luck.
> Mark WynnS/V Windchimes
>
>     On Sunday, May 5, 2024 at 09:48:25 AM EDT, Frank Goldsmith
> <goldsmith.cf at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>  That hasn?t been an issue for me in the inland mountain lake where I
> sail; can?t answer about coastal waters.
>
> Frank
>
>> On May 5, 2024, at 9:46?AM, joseph nador <jmsnadorjr at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> How do they do in the chop, white caps and current when you are in the
>> bay
>> or coastal?
>>
>> Joe Nador
>> S/V Respite  (Rhodes 22 1989)
>> Brightweaters , NY
>>
>> On Sun, May 5, 2024 at 8:52?AM Frank Goldsmith
>> <goldsmith.cf at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> We also have a Torqeedo 3 hp equivalent, long shaft, and like it very
>>> much.  It?s German-made and seems to be of good build quality.  I
>>> take the
>>> battery home with me and charge it as needed before heading to the
>>> marina.
>>>
>>> Frank Goldsmith
>>> S/V Mary Bess (Rhodes 22 1985/2001)
>>> Fairview, NC
>>> Lake Keowee, SC
>>>
>>>
>>>> On May 2, 2024, at 4:26?PM, Shawn Boles <shawn.sustain at gmail.com>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> I've had a Torqueedo three horsepower equivalent long shaft for
>>>> almost 15
>>>> years to go in and out of a marina. Had to replace the battery after
>>>> 10
>>>> years and the pin to hold the shaft out of the water broke. The
>>> replacement
>>>> pin also broke so I cobbled together a block to hold up the shaft. I
>>> would
>>>> never go back to a gasoline engine.
>>>>
>>>> I think there are several threads in the list that discuss electric
>>> motors.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Cheers,
>>>> Shawn
>>>> S/V Sweet Baboo
>>>>
>>>> On Thu, May 2, 2024, 12:19?PM Tom Hyatt via Rhodes22-list <
>>>> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> I have been wondering how many Rhodes owners have an electric
>>>>> motor. If
>>> you
>>>>> have one or had one, how pleased are (were) you with it.? What
>>> model/brand
>>>>> did you have?
>>>>>
>>>>> I have a 6 hp Tohatsu Sailpro that pushes my 78 Rhodes really well
>>>>> at
>>>>> fairly low RPMs but the idea of not having to mess with that pull
>>>>> cord
>>> and
>>>>> choke seems really appealing.
>>>>>
>>>>> Any contributions would be most appreciated.
>>>>>
>>>>> Tom Hyatt
>>>>> S/V Eliza Jane, 78
>>>>> Baltimore
>>>>>
>>>
>>>

From recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com  Wed May  8 09:05:03 2024
From: recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com (peter beckerman)
Date: Wed, 8 May 2024 13:05:03 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Tabernacle repair
References: <1263205466.221820.1715173503007.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1263205466.221820.1715173503007@mail.yahoo.com>

Hi All,? ?Last year when raising the mast for the 1st time,? I had a little incident that resulted in pulling one of the tabernacle screws off the cabin top.? I'm planning on drilling out the screw hole and epoxying a hardwood plug in the cabin top and screwing the tabernacle into that so that the screw will pull out if I or some future owner ever makes a similar mistake.? My question for you all is:? should I caulk the screw holes like I'm inclined to do, and if so is silicone a good sealant, or would you recommend an adhesive sealant like 3m 4200?? Bear in mind that I want the tabernacle to pull off the cabin top in the event of a mishap.
Thanks as always,
Peter


From gstewart.gm at gmail.com  Wed May  8 10:52:09 2024
From: gstewart.gm at gmail.com (Graham Stewart)
Date: Wed, 8 May 2024 14:52:09 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Tabernacle repair
In-Reply-To: <1263205466.221820.1715173503007@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1263205466.221820.1715173503007.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1263205466.221820.1715173503007@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <PH7PR12MB8153FD8A5BB28C11D0AC9EF4F5E52@PH7PR12MB8153.namprd12.prod.outlook.com>

Generally speaking, except for some plastics around ports, you should always avoid using silicone on boats. It is virtually impossible to remove silicone residue and nothing will stick to that residue - including silicone. 4200 is acceptable but don't use 5200 - it is permanent.

Graham Stewart
Rhodes 22
Agile, 1076
________________________________
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Sent: Wednesday, May 8, 2024 9:05 AM
To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Tabernacle repair

Hi All,   Last year when raising the mast for the 1st time,  I had a little incident that resulted in pulling one of the tabernacle screws off the cabin top.  I'm planning on drilling out the screw hole and epoxying a hardwood plug in the cabin top and screwing the tabernacle into that so that the screw will pull out if I or some future owner ever makes a similar mistake.  My question for you all is:  should I caulk the screw holes like I'm inclined to do, and if so is silicone a good sealant, or would you recommend an adhesive sealant like 3m 4200?  Bear in mind that I want the tabernacle to pull off the cabin top in the event of a mishap.
Thanks as always,
Peter


From peter at sunnybeeches.com  Wed May  8 12:09:28 2024
From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg)
Date: Wed, 08 May 2024 12:09:28 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Tabernacle repair
Message-ID: <E1s4jrE-002I8Q-2U@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

I would recommend butyl tape as a sealant with very little adhesiveness.  This is my first choice for most applications where I need a sealant on the boat.

Peter Nyberg
Coventry, CT
s/v Silverheels (1988/2016)


[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]

> On 2024-05-08, at 09:05:03 EDT, peter beckerman wrote:
>
> Hi All, Last year when raising the mast for the 1st time, I 
> had a little incident that resulted in pulling one of the tabernacle screws off 
> the cabin top.&nbsp; I'm planning on drilling out the screw hole and epoxying a 
> hardwood plug in the cabin top and screwing the tabernacle into that so that the 
> screw will pull out if I or some future owner ever makes a similar 
> mistake. My question for you all is:&nbsp; should I caulk the screw holes 
> like I'm inclined to do, and if so is silicone a good sealant, or would you 
> recommend an adhesive sealant like 3m 4200? Bear in mind that I want the 
> tabernacle to pull off the cabin top in the event of a mishap. 
> Thanks as always,
> Peter
> 
> 



From peter at sunnybeeches.com  Thu May  9 16:58:09 2024
From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg)
Date: Thu, 09 May 2024 16:58:09 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Wiring documentation - adding combination deck
	and steaming light
Message-ID: <E1s5Aq9-003MCg-15@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

David,

Sorry to be slow to respond to this.  I wasn?t sure that I had anything useful to say, but then a thought occurred to me.

If your boat is wired like mine, there is a 2-conductor wire that runs from the breaker panel down along the hull behind where the ice-box was (or maybe still is), then forward under the cabinet base, then under the head floor, and finally up a wire chase along side the compression post to a through-deck fitting at the base of the mast.  

Your plan calls for 4 conductors going up the mast (3 lights with a common ground).  Getting 2 more conductors from the base of the mast all the way back to the breaker panel would be a PITA.  You?ll also need 3 switches to control the three lights.  You?re already using one in the breaker panel (I?ll assume this is labeled ?Anchor?), but you probably don?t have two unused switches available there.

My suggestion is to re-label the ?Anchor? breaker panel switch as ?Mast Lights?.  Install 3 switches somewhere near the top of the compression post, and label these ?Anchor?, ?Steaming?, and ?Deck?.  Use the existing wire from the breaker panel as a common power source and common ground for these 3 circuits. 

One other thing I can say from recent personal experience is that making the wiring connections to the through-deck fitting was also a PITA.  I was using three 18 AWG wires. Connecting 4 wires will be even more challenging.

Best of luck. Let us know how the project unfolds, even if you don?t follow any of my suggestions. :^)

Peter Nyberg
Coventry, CT
s/v Silverheels (1988/2016)



[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]

> On 2024-05-05, at 14:21:38 EDT, DAVID BERG wrote:
>
> I?m about to attempt to service and upgrade the masthead light situation on my 
> 1996/200? Rhodes 22. I haven?t gone into full troubleshooting mode, but Initial 
> forrays into the circuit panel left me scratching my head a bit. This was a 
> couple of years ago, so I don?t remember exactly what I had found. 
> 
> I have found some helpful diagrams in the archive, particularly those drawn by 
> Cris Cowie, which have shed light on wiring issues. 
> 
> I?m contemplating adding a combination steaming/deck light, so I can probably 
> relegate the masthead light to anchor-light duty only. I believe it was/is 
> originally intended to serve as both steaming and anchor light. I?m wondering if 
> anyone else has any wiring diagrams or information to share regarding wiring 
> documentation on the 1990s vintage Rhodes. 
> 
> Thanks,
> David Berg
> Minneapolis, MN
> s/v Blue Loon (1996/200?)
> 
> PS: Thanks, Peter, for the info on the wire slapping fix. I think I may still 
> use zip ties, but your knowledge is useful, as always. 
> 



From recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com  Fri May 10 15:54:23 2024
From: recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com (peter beckerman)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2024 15:54:23 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Wiring documentation - adding combination deck
	and steaming light
Message-ID: <E1s5WJz-00GdmG-0X@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

I don't mean to hijack this thread, but l recall reading somewhere about wiring LED steaming and anchor lights with the polarity reversed from each other and then swapping hot and cold leads to turn one or the other on thus avoiding a new cabin top connector or much new wiring.  Has anyone done this?  Sounds like it should work, can anyone confirm?  Anyone see a down side?

Peter

[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]


From chitakcheung at gmail.com  Fri May 10 17:11:27 2024
From: chitakcheung at gmail.com (Patrick Cheung)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2024 17:11:27 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Wiring documentation - adding combination deck
	and steaming light
In-Reply-To: <E1s5WJz-00GdmG-0X@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
References: <E1s5WJz-00GdmG-0X@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
Message-ID: <9FDF1E76-5BB6-40D4-9C30-803F6E40D2DB@gmail.com>

I did that, you will need a DPDT switch. But this gentleman need deck light, so two conductor is not enough.

Patrick




> On May 10, 2024, at 3:54?PM, peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> 
> ?I don't mean to hijack this thread, but l recall reading somewhere about wiring LED steaming and anchor lights with the polarity reversed from each other and then swapping hot and cold leads to turn one or the other on thus avoiding a new cabin top connector or much new wiring.  Has anyone done this?  Sounds like it should work, can anyone confirm?  Anyone see a down side?
> 
> Peter
> 
> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
> 

From recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com  Sun May 12 22:22:55 2024
From: recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com (peter beckerman)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2024 02:22:55 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] General Boats jib rollerfurler
References: <365678217.1414827.1715566975361.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <365678217.1414827.1715566975361@mail.yahoo.com>

Hi All,? ? At the end of last season I had a somewhat chaotic time getting my boat out of the lake and into storage for the winter.? Several sailing friends helped me out, none of us with any experience with a Rhodes 22.? One of the tasks that I needed to complete was removing the sails from the furlers.? I concentrated on the mainsail, while others removed the Genoa.? In preparation for putting the boat in this year I spent some time the other morning putting the sails back on the furlers.? I understood the mounting system to involve sliding the furler tube into the pocket on the luff of the sail until the grommets line up to screw holes at the head and foot.? Screws are run through the grommet and tightened to the furling tube and Bob's your Uncle.This is exactly how my mainsail installed, but when I got to the Genoa, there was only a screw at the head of the sail.? I could not find one (or evidence of one) at the foot.? Is this correct?? Am I missing something?? Is there a system for keeping the luff taught?? Any insights will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,? ?Peter

From cjlowe at sssnet.com  Mon May 13 01:15:05 2024
From: cjlowe at sssnet.com (cjlowe at sssnet.com)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2024 01:15:05 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] General Boats jib rollerfurler
In-Reply-To: <365678217.1414827.1715566975361@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <365678217.1414827.1715566975361.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <365678217.1414827.1715566975361@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <49523.24.140.113.219.1715577305.squirrel@quickpop.sssnet.com>


Peter,

  On my '86, I have a line from the bottom grommet of the sail to the disc
at the bottom of the furling tube. The line goes thru a hole in the disc
near the furling tube. Pull the line tight and tie a knot underneath the
disc so the line can't get back thru. I like to get that line as tight
as I can.

  Jerry Lowe. S/V Country Rhodes '86




Hi All,?? ?? At the end of last season I had a somewhat chaotic time
> getting my boat out of the lake and into storage for the winter.?? Several
> sailing friends helped me out, none of us with any experience with a
> Rhodes 22.?? One of the tasks that I needed to complete was removing the
> sails from the furlers.?? I concentrated on the mainsail, while others
> removed the Genoa.?? In preparation for putting the boat in this year I
> spent some time the other morning putting the sails back on the furlers.??
> I understood the mounting system to involve sliding the furler tube into
> the pocket on the luff of the sail until the grommets line up to screw
> holes at the head and foot.?? Screws are run through the grommet and
> tightened to the furling tube and Bob's your Uncle.This is exactly how my
> mainsail installed, but when I got to the Genoa, there was only a screw at
> the head of the sail.?? I could not find one (or evidence of one) at the
> foot.?? Is this correct??? Am I missing something??? Is there a system for
> keeping the luff taught??? Any insights will be greatly appreciated.
> Thanks,?? ??Peter
>



From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Mon May 13 07:37:03 2024
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2024 11:37:03 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] General Boats jib rollerfurler
In-Reply-To: <365678217.1414827.1715566975361@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <365678217.1414827.1715566975361.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <365678217.1414827.1715566975361@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <MN2PR10MB4288B4D4EC6012C44058AB7D80E22@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Peter,

It's been a long time since I upgraded the genoa roller furler on my boat to a Harken Unit 0.  But, as I recall, the OEM roller furler had an extra hole in the furling drum.  The line for tensioning the genoa luff was fed thru this hole and a stopper knot was tied on the bottom of the drum.  The rest of the line was fed thru a grommet on the tack of the genoa.  The genoa luff was tensioned by tying a power cinch hitch.  Normally, the luff tensioning line is left tied off to the roller furling drum when the sail is removed.  However, your inexperienced "helpers" may not have known this and removed it.  As I recall, the line was 1/4" OD double braid, about 2' long.

By the way, who is my "uncle Bob"?

Roger Pihlaja
________________________________
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Sent: Sunday, May 12, 2024 10:22 PM
To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] General Boats jib rollerfurler

Hi All,    At the end of last season I had a somewhat chaotic time getting my boat out of the lake and into storage for the winter.  Several sailing friends helped me out, none of us with any experience with a Rhodes 22.  One of the tasks that I needed to complete was removing the sails from the furlers.  I concentrated on the mainsail, while others removed the Genoa.  In preparation for putting the boat in this year I spent some time the other morning putting the sails back on the furlers.  I understood the mounting system to involve sliding the furler tube into the pocket on the luff of the sail until the grommets line up to screw holes at the head and foot.  Screws are run through the grommet and tightened to the furling tube and Bob's your Uncle.This is exactly how my mainsail installed, but when I got to the Genoa, there was only a screw at the head of the sail.  I could not find one (or evidence of one) at the foot.  Is this correct?  Am I missing something?  Is there a system for keeping the luff taught?  Any insights will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,   Peter

From peter at sunnybeeches.com  Mon May 13 07:54:19 2024
From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2024 07:54:19 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Bob's Your Uncle
Message-ID: <E1s6UG3-0026t3-1i@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

"Bob's your uncle" is a phrase commonly used in the United Kingdom and Commonwealth countries that means "and there it is", or "and there you have it", ...


[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]

> On 2024-05-13, at 07:37:03 EDT, ROGER PIHLAJA wrote:
>
> ...
> By the way, who is my "uncle Bob"?
> 
> Roger Pihlaja
> 



From recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com  Mon May 13 08:35:01 2024
From: recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com (peter beckerman)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2024 12:35:01 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] General Boats jib rollerfurler
References: <664738680.1499743.1715603701688.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <664738680.1499743.1715603701688@mail.yahoo.com>

?Thanks All,? ? Last year was my first with the boat, so lot's of learning.??? ? I did run a line from the "tack" grommet through the hole in the furling disk "till I figure out how it's supposed to work". I guess I spent all of last season sailing with nothing holding the luff taught because there certainly wasn't a line there when I got the boat.??
The adventure continues......
Peter

From mitchpadl at gmail.com  Mon May 13 09:32:24 2024
From: mitchpadl at gmail.com (Mitch Mitchell)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2024 09:32:24 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] General Boats jib rollerfurler
In-Reply-To: <664738680.1499743.1715603701688@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <664738680.1499743.1715603701688@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <C2F49B2D-0B3D-421E-B41A-4C3ABF7E4CC5@gmail.com>

I think this is what you are talking about. This is a 1990.
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Sent from my iPhone

> On May 13, 2024, at 8:35 AM, peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> 
> ? Thanks All,    Last year was my first with the boat, so lot's of learning.      I did run a line from the "tack" grommet through the hole in the furling disk "till I figure out how it's supposed to work". I guess I spent all of last season sailing with nothing holding the luff taught because there certainly wasn't a line there when I got the boat.  
> The adventure continues......
> Peter

From tom.vanheule at intrinsicprograms.com  Mon May 13 12:44:36 2024
From: tom.vanheule at intrinsicprograms.com (Tom Van Heule)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2024 11:44:36 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Custom R22 lift for sale
Message-ID: <CAEqJHY4jQqkJaCw4kecogQy4YR=f05zaBoztzpAioQtYCDxEyQ@mail.gmail.com>

Hello everyone! Hope we're all well.

As we since parted with our beloved Octopian and the new owners did not
want, I have a lift with no boat.

Everything has been stored inside my enclosed trailer since pickup.
All the wood is fresh, the carpets are clean, the aluminum is straight.
There are two spots that need welding during assembly (else transport is
unfeasible).

See photos, make offer. Located in Waukesha WI.  Else I will scrap together
the frame of a small shed, lol. However as this is custom made for the
rarest best boat, I want to offer it here.  I also have all the hardware
and brackets too.

Best,
Tom
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From mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com  Mon May 13 23:01:14 2024
From: mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com (Michael McKay)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2024 23:01:14 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Quick release levers for shrouds?
Message-ID: <D55C679D-5C4A-4B9A-B528-52D0489980CE@gmail.com>

?I am contemplating installing quick release levers for some of my shrouds to simplify mast raising/lowering and reduce the need to retune the rig every time. 

Has anyone done this and do you have specifics about what was required?

Thanks,

Michael McKay
s/v Liber, 2006/2018
Woodstock, GA


Sent from my iPhone

From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Tue May 14 08:26:43 2024
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Tue, 14 May 2024 12:26:43 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Custom R22 lift for sale
In-Reply-To: <CAEqJHY4jQqkJaCw4kecogQy4YR=f05zaBoztzpAioQtYCDxEyQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAEqJHY4jQqkJaCw4kecogQy4YR=f05zaBoztzpAioQtYCDxEyQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <MN2PR10MB4288D3A0CE005142B8895DE380E32@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Hi Tom,

I have several questions:


  1.
The welding you refer to is on aluminum tubing?  Have these spots been previously welded?  If they've been previously welded, can you supply a photo of the previously welded spots?
  2.
Are the legs adjustable for water depth & how deep water can it handle?
  3.
None of the pictures illustrate the foot pads.  What style are they; i.e. screw auger, mud pad, etc?
  4.
Manual or electric hoist?  If electric, what voltage and current circuit is required?
  5.
In the pictures, the hoist is on the port side, can it be switched to the starboard side?
  6.
Approximately, what does the lift weigh fully assembled?
  7.
Who built it originally, just in case I would need to order longer legs &/or different style foot pads?
  8.
Disassembled, what are the dimensions of the longest component?
  9.
How much are you asking for it?

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
1978  Sanford, MI

________________________________
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of Tom Van Heule <tom.vanheule at intrinsicprograms.com>
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2024 12:44 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Custom R22 lift for sale

Hello everyone! Hope we're all well.

As we since parted with our beloved Octopian and the new owners did not
want, I have a lift with no boat.

Everything has been stored inside my enclosed trailer since pickup.
All the wood is fresh, the carpets are clean, the aluminum is straight.
There are two spots that need welding during assembly (else transport is
unfeasible).

See photos, make offer. Located in Waukesha WI.  Else I will scrap together
the frame of a small shed, lol. However as this is custom made for the
rarest best boat, I want to offer it here.  I also have all the hardware
and brackets too.

Best,
Tom
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From mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com  Sat May 18 12:26:53 2024
From: mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com (Michael McKay)
Date: Sat, 18 May 2024 12:26:53 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Quick release levers for shrouds?
Message-ID: <01cf01daa940$32088070$96198150$@gmail.com>

I'm resending this because I didn't see it appear in my Rhodes 22 email inbox.  Apologies if it's a duplicate for you.
---


?I am contemplating installing quick release levers for some of my shrouds to simplify mast raising/lowering and reduce the need to retune the rig every time. 

Has anyone done this and do you have specifics about what was required?

Thanks,

Michael McKay
s/v Liber, 2006/2018
Woodstock, GA


Sent from my iPhone


From tom.vanheule at intrinsicprograms.com  Sat May 18 17:43:31 2024
From: tom.vanheule at intrinsicprograms.com (Tom Van Heule)
Date: Sat, 18 May 2024 16:43:31 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Custom R22 lift for sale
In-Reply-To: <MN2PR10MB4288D3A0CE005142B8895DE380E32@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <CAEqJHY4jQqkJaCw4kecogQy4YR=f05zaBoztzpAioQtYCDxEyQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB4288D3A0CE005142B8895DE380E32@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAEqJHY6f95-_tYETv8D6WgCKWccKGkko8UnPtzm+mJzZdYGn_A@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Roger.
I attached photos of the welds, and the current storage situation, I was
not home at the moment.

I do not have the " lift base", this would attach to a.standard lift.  pics
is of what I have.  So most of the following questions I can't help with. I
do not know who made it other than it was an employee of the previous
owner.

Maybe I should call it a custom cradle for the r22 rather a lift.

Let me know,





Thanks!
Tom

On Tue, May 14, 2024, 7:26 AM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:

> Hi Tom,
>
> I have several questions:
>
>
>   1.
> The welding you refer to is on aluminum tubing?  Have these spots been
> previously welded?  If they've been previously welded, can you supply a
> photo of the previously welded spots?
>   2.
> Are the legs adjustable for water depth & how deep water can it handle?
>   3.
> None of the pictures illustrate the foot pads.  What style are they; i.e.
> screw auger, mud pad, etc?
>   4.
> Manual or electric hoist?  If electric, what voltage and current circuit
> is required?
>   5.
> In the pictures, the hoist is on the port side, can it be switched to the
> starboard side?
>   6.
> Approximately, what does the lift weigh fully assembled?
>   7.
> Who built it originally, just in case I would need to order longer legs
> &/or different style foot pads?
>   8.
> Disassembled, what are the dimensions of the longest component?
>   9.
> How much are you asking for it?
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> 1978  Sanford, MI
>
> ________________________________
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of Tom
> Van Heule <tom.vanheule at intrinsicprograms.com>
> Sent: Monday, May 13, 2024 12:44 PM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Custom R22 lift for sale
>
> Hello everyone! Hope we're all well.
>
> As we since parted with our beloved Octopian and the new owners did not
> want, I have a lift with no boat.
>
> Everything has been stored inside my enclosed trailer since pickup.
> All the wood is fresh, the carpets are clean, the aluminum is straight.
> There are two spots that need welding during assembly (else transport is
> unfeasible).
>
> See photos, make offer. Located in Waukesha WI.  Else I will scrap together
> the frame of a small shed, lol. However as this is custom made for the
> rarest best boat, I want to offer it here.  I also have all the hardware
> and brackets too.
>
> Best,
> Tom
> -------------- next part --------------
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> >>
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> >>
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> <
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> >>
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> >>
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From tom.vanheule at intrinsicprograms.com  Sat May 18 17:48:47 2024
From: tom.vanheule at intrinsicprograms.com (Tom Van Heule)
Date: Sat, 18 May 2024 16:48:47 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Custom R22 lift for sale
In-Reply-To: <CAEqJHY6f95-_tYETv8D6WgCKWccKGkko8UnPtzm+mJzZdYGn_A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAEqJHY4jQqkJaCw4kecogQy4YR=f05zaBoztzpAioQtYCDxEyQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB4288D3A0CE005142B8895DE380E32@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAEqJHY6f95-_tYETv8D6WgCKWccKGkko8UnPtzm+mJzZdYGn_A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAEqJHY7VWXFgb7EP6YLjkf+HA9KiUFm2YutcGaM_LT3cWyjzHg@mail.gmail.com>

Roger, this photo is inside a 16ft trailer.  I had no problem using a
truckbed to move it all.  I took it from northern MN to WI that way.  It
could probably go on a roof rack if an suv.  No pice is a "team lift".

Thanks again,
Tom

On Sat, May 18, 2024, 4:43 PM Tom Van Heule <
tom.vanheule at intrinsicprograms.com> wrote:

> Hi Roger.
> I attached photos of the welds, and the current storage situation, I was
> not home at the moment.
>
> I do not have the " lift base", this would attach to a.standard lift.
> pics is of what I have.  So most of the following questions I can't help
> with. I do not know who made it other than it was an employee of the
> previous owner.
>
> Maybe I should call it a custom cradle for the r22 rather a lift.
>
> Let me know,
>
>
>
>
>
> Thanks!
> Tom
>
> On Tue, May 14, 2024, 7:26 AM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi Tom,
>>
>> I have several questions:
>>
>>
>>   1.
>> The welding you refer to is on aluminum tubing?  Have these spots been
>> previously welded?  If they've been previously welded, can you supply a
>> photo of the previously welded spots?
>>   2.
>> Are the legs adjustable for water depth & how deep water can it handle?
>>   3.
>> None of the pictures illustrate the foot pads.  What style are they; i.e.
>> screw auger, mud pad, etc?
>>   4.
>> Manual or electric hoist?  If electric, what voltage and current circuit
>> is required?
>>   5.
>> In the pictures, the hoist is on the port side, can it be switched to the
>> starboard side?
>>   6.
>> Approximately, what does the lift weigh fully assembled?
>>   7.
>> Who built it originally, just in case I would need to order longer legs
>> &/or different style foot pads?
>>   8.
>> Disassembled, what are the dimensions of the longest component?
>>   9.
>> How much are you asking for it?
>>
>> Roger Pihlaja
>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>> 1978  Sanford, MI
>>
>> ________________________________
>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
>> Tom Van Heule <tom.vanheule at intrinsicprograms.com>
>> Sent: Monday, May 13, 2024 12:44 PM
>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Custom R22 lift for sale
>>
>> Hello everyone! Hope we're all well.
>>
>> As we since parted with our beloved Octopian and the new owners did not
>> want, I have a lift with no boat.
>>
>> Everything has been stored inside my enclosed trailer since pickup.
>> All the wood is fresh, the carpets are clean, the aluminum is straight.
>> There are two spots that need welding during assembly (else transport is
>> unfeasible).
>>
>> See photos, make offer. Located in Waukesha WI.  Else I will scrap
>> together
>> the frame of a small shed, lol. However as this is custom made for the
>> rarest best boat, I want to offer it here.  I also have all the hardware
>> and brackets too.
>>
>> Best,
>> Tom
>> -------------- next part --------------
>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
>> Name: 1000000575.jpg
>> Type: image/jpeg
>> Size: 93702 bytes
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>> URL: <
>> https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Frhodes22.org%2Fpipermail%2Frhodes22-list%2Fattachments%2F20240513%2F74276220%2Fattachment.jpg&data=05%7C02%7C%7Cf24cec5f98214f9aef1608dc736c04c7%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638512155028599536%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C0%7C%7C%7C&sdata=Tjp1K38u8ejVSfeDn%2BRObOusugUFts%2FlvAv3GlvKEDg%3D&reserved=0
>> <
>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240513/74276220/attachment.jpg
>> >>
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>> <
>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240513/74276220/attachment-0001.jpg
>> >>
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>> >>
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>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240513/74276220/attachment-0003.jpg
>> >>
>>
>
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From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Sat May 18 18:35:18 2024
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Sat, 18 May 2024 22:35:18 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Custom R22 lift for sale
In-Reply-To: <CAEqJHY7VWXFgb7EP6YLjkf+HA9KiUFm2YutcGaM_LT3cWyjzHg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAEqJHY4jQqkJaCw4kecogQy4YR=f05zaBoztzpAioQtYCDxEyQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB4288D3A0CE005142B8895DE380E32@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAEqJHY6f95-_tYETv8D6WgCKWccKGkko8UnPtzm+mJzZdYGn_A@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAEqJHY7VWXFgb7EP6YLjkf+HA9KiUFm2YutcGaM_LT3cWyjzHg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <MN2PR10MB428843F3121447DD89AE5D0080EF2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Hi Tom,

It sounds like much more project than I am prepared to take on at the moment.  Good luck!

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
1978  Sanford, MI

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 18, 2024, at 5:49?PM, Tom Van Heule <tom.vanheule at intrinsicprograms.com> wrote:
>
> ?Roger, this photo is inside a 16ft trailer.  I had no problem using a
> truckbed to move it all.  I took it from northern MN to WI that way.  It
> could probably go on a roof rack if an suv.  No pice is a "team lift".
>
> Thanks again,
> Tom
>
>> On Sat, May 18, 2024, 4:43 PM Tom Van Heule <
>> tom.vanheule at intrinsicprograms.com> wrote:
>>
>> Hi Roger.
>> I attached photos of the welds, and the current storage situation, I was
>> not home at the moment.
>>
>> I do not have the " lift base", this would attach to a.standard lift.
>> pics is of what I have.  So most of the following questions I can't help
>> with. I do not know who made it other than it was an employee of the
>> previous owner.
>>
>> Maybe I should call it a custom cradle for the r22 rather a lift.
>>
>> Let me know,
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks!
>> Tom
>>
>>> On Tue, May 14, 2024, 7:26 AM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> Hi Tom,
>>>
>>> I have several questions:
>>>
>>>
>>>  1.
>>> The welding you refer to is on aluminum tubing?  Have these spots been
>>> previously welded?  If they've been previously welded, can you supply a
>>> photo of the previously welded spots?
>>>  2.
>>> Are the legs adjustable for water depth & how deep water can it handle?
>>>  3.
>>> None of the pictures illustrate the foot pads.  What style are they; i.e.
>>> screw auger, mud pad, etc?
>>>  4.
>>> Manual or electric hoist?  If electric, what voltage and current circuit
>>> is required?
>>>  5.
>>> In the pictures, the hoist is on the port side, can it be switched to the
>>> starboard side?
>>>  6.
>>> Approximately, what does the lift weigh fully assembled?
>>>  7.
>>> Who built it originally, just in case I would need to order longer legs
>>> &/or different style foot pads?
>>>  8.
>>> Disassembled, what are the dimensions of the longest component?
>>>  9.
>>> How much are you asking for it?
>>>
>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>> 1978  Sanford, MI
>>>
>>> ________________________________
>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
>>> Tom Van Heule <tom.vanheule at intrinsicprograms.com>
>>> Sent: Monday, May 13, 2024 12:44 PM
>>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>>> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Custom R22 lift for sale
>>>
>>> Hello everyone! Hope we're all well.
>>>
>>> As we since parted with our beloved Octopian and the new owners did not
>>> want, I have a lift with no boat.
>>>
>>> Everything has been stored inside my enclosed trailer since pickup.
>>> All the wood is fresh, the carpets are clean, the aluminum is straight.
>>> There are two spots that need welding during assembly (else transport is
>>> unfeasible).
>>>
>>> See photos, make offer. Located in Waukesha WI.  Else I will scrap
>>> together
>>> the frame of a small shed, lol. However as this is custom made for the
>>> rarest best boat, I want to offer it here.  I also have all the hardware
>>> and brackets too.
>>>
>>> Best,
>>> Tom
>>> -------------- next part --------------
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>>> <
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>>>>>
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>>>>>
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>>> <
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>>>>>
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>>> <
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>>>>>
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>>
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From recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com  Sat May 18 23:30:05 2024
From: recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com (peter beckerman)
Date: Sun, 19 May 2024 03:30:05 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Centerboard control line size/leak
References: <539616566.1363709.1716089405170.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <539616566.1363709.1716089405170@mail.yahoo.com>

? ? I got my boat in the water today and am very happy to report that the 3/16" line I'm using is working fine and my centerboard now deploys properly.? I do not find the line hard to manage though I suspect that 1/4" might be better.? ?I am extremely unhappy to report the steady drip I'm getting from the centerboard cap.? I tried to torque the screws down, but that didn't solve (or help) the problem.? Therefore I took the boat out of the water and expect to remove the centerboard cap and do a better job cleaning the mating surfaces before reassembling.? Question for anyone who has removed the centerboard cap:? did you use any sort of caulking or sealant when reassembling the cap?Were the screws sufficient to create a tight seal?
Thanks,? ? ?Peter

From ruehbl at msn.com  Sun May 19 06:06:57 2024
From: ruehbl at msn.com (BARRY RUEHLEN)
Date: Sun, 19 May 2024 10:06:57 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Centerboard control line size/leak
In-Reply-To: <539616566.1363709.1716089405170@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <539616566.1363709.1716089405170.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <539616566.1363709.1716089405170@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <IA1PR19MB6498648E3F23AD2624CC79F1C1E82@IA1PR19MB6498.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>

Peter,
We have had our cap off a few times during the remake of our Rhodes. I do not recommend the use of any type of sealant. You should have a neoprene gasket in place between the cap and trunk. Make sure it doesn't have any tears or is cracking. I think ours was around 3/16" thick. You might rub it down with silicone grease to help keep it supple. Any adhesive will make it an absolute bear to remove again. Our cap was bolted together with something like 50 bolts. I have heard that some were screwed. If that is the case, take particular notice when removing the screws that they all feel tight and have not striped. If possible, I would personally drill out for Stainless bolts. They are a pain, but you know they are tight. Good luck. Leaks are maddening, and the trunk is not fun to remove.
Best,
Barry
SV/ Perserverance '87
________________________________
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Sent: Saturday, May 18, 2024 11:30 PM
To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Centerboard control line size/leak

    I got my boat in the water today and am very happy to report that the 3/16" line I'm using is working fine and my centerboard now deploys properly.  I do not find the line hard to manage though I suspect that 1/4" might be better.   I am extremely unhappy to report the steady drip I'm getting from the centerboard cap.  I tried to torque the screws down, but that didn't solve (or help) the problem.  Therefore I took the boat out of the water and expect to remove the centerboard cap and do a better job cleaning the mating surfaces before reassembling.  Question for anyone who has removed the centerboard cap:  did you use any sort of caulking or sealant when reassembling the cap?Were the screws sufficient to create a tight seal?
Thanks,     Peter

From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Sun May 19 10:32:30 2024
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Sun, 19 May 2024 14:32:30 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Centerboard control line size/leak
In-Reply-To: <539616566.1363709.1716089405170@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <539616566.1363709.1716089405170.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <539616566.1363709.1716089405170@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <MN2PR10MB4288396589195CE2BCEBC53D80E82@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Hi Peter,
I may be in the minority; but, I used Dow Corning clear RTV silicone aquarium sealant on the centerboard cap, on both sides of the gasket.  The job is done so infrequently that silicone removal is a mote point.  I?ve only done it once since 1987.   I like the ability of the silicone to conform to scratches or other irregularities plus it can flex with the hull and not leak.  My centerboard cap has thru bolts vs wood screws.  Use the biggest washers that will fit on top and bottom (fender washers if there is room) to spread the load.  I used Nyloc lock nuts.  Torque the bolts in criss cross pattern as if you were torqueing down a cylinder head.  Don?t over torque the the bolts.  When the Silicone RTV is evenly squeezed out all around the joint, that?s tight enough.  Let the silicone cure for 24 hours prior to launching.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium 
1978  Sanford, MI

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 18, 2024, at 11:30?PM, peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> 
> ?    I got my boat in the water today and am very happy to report that the 3/16" line I'm using is working fine and my centerboard now deploys properly.  I do not find the line hard to manage though I suspect that 1/4" might be better.   I am extremely unhappy to report the steady drip I'm getting from the centerboard cap.  I tried to torque the screws down, but that didn't solve (or help) the problem.  Therefore I took the boat out of the water and expect to remove the centerboard cap and do a better job cleaning the mating surfaces before reassembling.  Question for anyone who has removed the centerboard cap:  did you use any sort of caulking or sealant when reassembling the cap?Were the screws sufficient to create a tight seal?
> Thanks,     Peter

From gstewart.gm at gmail.com  Sun May 19 12:38:42 2024
From: gstewart.gm at gmail.com (Graham Stewart)
Date: Sun, 19 May 2024 12:38:42 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Centerboard control line size/leak
In-Reply-To: <MN2PR10MB4288396589195CE2BCEBC53D80E82@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <539616566.1363709.1716089405170.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <539616566.1363709.1716089405170@mail.yahoo.com>
 <MN2PR10MB4288396589195CE2BCEBC53D80E82@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CACdaeT4sU6ts0D579Ecd4rB7Vb+BBoo4ggrRC_r-cEd6d0NKNA@mail.gmail.com>

I found that I could not get a water-tight seal using the gasket alone -
probably because I was not able to find the proper gasket material here
in Canada. I decided to add some butyl tape and that solved the problem.
Some say that you shouldn't use butyl below the waterline, but my seal has
been holding fine for about 5 years now. I am not sure whether the seal is
actually below the waterline most of the time either.
The advantage of butyl is that it has virtually no adhesive properties and
is easy to remove. It also compresses very easily. I have no idea whether
it is better or worse than the silicone material that Roger used but it is
an alternative that might be worth considering in problem situations.
I also found that it is much easier to install the bolts upside down. That
way you can use a power drill with a torque adjustment to quickly drive the
nuts with equal torque. Of course, you need to make sure that the bolts you
use are not so long as to touch the floorboards.

Graham Stewart
Agile 76


On Sun, May 19, 2024 at 11:11?AM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
wrote:

> Hi Peter,
> I may be in the minority; but, I used Dow Corning clear RTV silicone
> aquarium sealant on the centerboard cap, on both sides of the gasket.  The
> job is done so infrequently that silicone removal is a mote point.  I?ve
> only done it once since 1987.   I like the ability of the silicone to
> conform to scratches or other irregularities plus it can flex with the hull
> and not leak.  My centerboard cap has thru bolts vs wood screws.  Use the
> biggest washers that will fit on top and bottom (fender washers if there is
> room) to spread the load.  I used Nyloc lock nuts.  Torque the bolts in
> criss cross pattern as if you were torqueing down a cylinder head.  Don?t
> over torque the the bolts.  When the Silicone RTV is evenly squeezed out
> all around the joint, that?s tight enough.  Let the silicone cure for 24
> hours prior to launching.
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> 1978  Sanford, MI
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On May 18, 2024, at 11:30?PM, peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list <
> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> >
> > ?    I got my boat in the water today and am very happy to report that
> the 3/16" line I'm using is working fine and my centerboard now deploys
> properly.  I do not find the line hard to manage though I suspect that 1/4"
> might be better.   I am extremely unhappy to report the steady drip I'm
> getting from the centerboard cap.  I tried to torque the screws down, but
> that didn't solve (or help) the problem.  Therefore I took the boat out of
> the water and expect to remove the centerboard cap and do a better job
> cleaning the mating surfaces before reassembling.  Question for anyone who
> has removed the centerboard cap:  did you use any sort of caulking or
> sealant when reassembling the cap?Were the screws sufficient to create a
> tight seal?
> > Thanks,     Peter
>

From borderfolle at yahoo.com  Sun May 19 20:18:24 2024
From: borderfolle at yahoo.com (Donald Simons)
Date: Mon, 20 May 2024 00:18:24 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Quick release levers for shrouds?
In-Reply-To: <D55C679D-5C4A-4B9A-B528-52D0489980CE@gmail.com>
References: <D55C679D-5C4A-4B9A-B528-52D0489980CE@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1360153193.986224.1716164304915@mail.yahoo.com>

 In the 1980?s Supercat Catamarans had shroud extenders.? They were used to extend the side stay of the upper hull of a capsized catamaran making the boat was easier to right.? If you are interested you can try contacting Aquarius who manufactures the Supercat at:? Aquarius Sail Inc. - Home of the incredible RC & ARC Catamarans .? A quick internet search lead me to Strictly Sail & Kayak at:? Shroud Extender Quick Release Hyfield Lever 1/4" holes . ? They?seems rather pricey.
Don Simons,Old Forge, NY

    On Monday, May 13, 2024 at 11:01:29 PM EDT, Michael McKay <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com> wrote:  
 
 I am contemplating installing quick release levers for some of my shrouds to simplify mast raising/lowering and reduce the need to retune the rig every time. 

Has anyone done this and do you have specifics about what was required?

Thanks,

Michael McKay
s/v Liber, 2006/2018
Woodstock, GA


Sent from my iPhone  

From eabarnes66 at yahoo.com  Sun May 19 22:32:27 2024
From: eabarnes66 at yahoo.com (Edward Barnes)
Date: Mon, 20 May 2024 02:32:27 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] 1988 Rhodes 22 w-trailer for sale
References: <481399572.1866885.1716172347147.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <481399572.1866885.1716172347147@mail.yahoo.com>

ok, I?ll trying posting again ? my previous post got bounced back due to large picture attachments - including links this time around.  

Hello Everyone,

I?m planning to sell my 1988 Rhodes 22 w-trailer ? it hasn?t been in the water in several years and will likely require some TLC.
The boat is located on Long Island, NY.?? I have not evaluated the sail condition.? Cushions have been stored inside and are in excellent condition.?

I can provide additional details.? Price is negotiable.? Thank you !

Pictures:  

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1kL_oSs2fhplgoLXiz688wSeZtCXEP3b0/view?usp=drive_link

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1doTAULmrnWkMHyFVa0B58cApBDlfsIo3/view?usp=drive_link


Please contact me at?eabarnes66 at yahoo.com

From mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com  Mon May 20 17:36:52 2024
From: mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com (mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com)
Date: Mon, 20 May 2024 17:36:52 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Centerboard control line size/leak
In-Reply-To: <CACdaeT4sU6ts0D579Ecd4rB7Vb+BBoo4ggrRC_r-cEd6d0NKNA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <539616566.1363709.1716089405170.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <539616566.1363709.1716089405170@mail.yahoo.com>
 <MN2PR10MB4288396589195CE2BCEBC53D80E82@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CACdaeT4sU6ts0D579Ecd4rB7Vb+BBoo4ggrRC_r-cEd6d0NKNA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <04df01daaafd$d47b5030$7d71f090$@gmail.com>

Hi Peter,

I removed my centerboard cap two years ago to perform some maintenance to the centerboard, and found that the rubber gasket material was quite deteriorated.  Finding the correct neoprene rubber gasket material proved much more difficult than anticipated.  

It needs to be soft rubber so it seals well (durometer 40) and both long and wide enough.  The thickness should be 3/16".  I ordered a stock strip 5' long and 6" wide from MSC Industrial Supply based on guidance from this list.  Unfortunately, I found the centerboard cap on my boat has holes that are wider than 6" apart so that piece wouldn't work for me.  After much online searching, I ended up ordering a custom cut piece from MSC that was 3' wide and 5' long.  That was the only way I could end up with the size I needed (3' was their minimum width.)  I used a hollow hole punch from Amazon (https://a.co/d/fvJPvCato) to cut clean holes for the bolts--a drill didn't work well at all.  To mark the correct locations, we put the cap on top of the gasket material and sprayed a bit of paint over the holes in the cap.

I used a torque wrench to ensure uniform pressure using an alternating pattern as Roger recommends below.  After floating the boat, I noticed some minor seepage, so I tightened the bolts a bit further.  Since then I have had no leaks at all.

I still have the 6" wide by 5' roll if anyone can use it--just pay the shipping (measure first!)  I also have the remainder of the larger roll and I can cut a wider strip from that if your boat requires it.


Mike McKay
s/v Liber (2006/2018)
Allatoona Lake
Acworth, GA

-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of Graham Stewart
Sent: Sunday, May 19, 2024 12:39 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Centerboard control line size/leak

I found that I could not get a water-tight seal using the gasket alone -
probably because I was not able to find the proper gasket material here
in Canada. I decided to add some butyl tape and that solved the problem.
Some say that you shouldn't use butyl below the waterline, but my seal has
been holding fine for about 5 years now. I am not sure whether the seal is
actually below the waterline most of the time either.
The advantage of butyl is that it has virtually no adhesive properties and
is easy to remove. It also compresses very easily. I have no idea whether
it is better or worse than the silicone material that Roger used but it is
an alternative that might be worth considering in problem situations.
I also found that it is much easier to install the bolts upside down. That
way you can use a power drill with a torque adjustment to quickly drive the
nuts with equal torque. Of course, you need to make sure that the bolts you
use are not so long as to touch the floorboards.

Graham Stewart
Agile 76


On Sun, May 19, 2024 at 11:11?AM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
wrote:

> Hi Peter,
> I may be in the minority; but, I used Dow Corning clear RTV silicone
> aquarium sealant on the centerboard cap, on both sides of the gasket.  The
> job is done so infrequently that silicone removal is a mote point.  I?ve
> only done it once since 1987.   I like the ability of the silicone to
> conform to scratches or other irregularities plus it can flex with the hull
> and not leak.  My centerboard cap has thru bolts vs wood screws.  Use the
> biggest washers that will fit on top and bottom (fender washers if there is
> room) to spread the load.  I used Nyloc lock nuts.  Torque the bolts in
> criss cross pattern as if you were torqueing down a cylinder head.  Don?t
> over torque the the bolts.  When the Silicone RTV is evenly squeezed out
> all around the joint, that?s tight enough.  Let the silicone cure for 24
> hours prior to launching.
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> 1978  Sanford, MI
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On May 18, 2024, at 11:30?PM, peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list <
> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> >
> > ?    I got my boat in the water today and am very happy to report that
> the 3/16" line I'm using is working fine and my centerboard now deploys
> properly.  I do not find the line hard to manage though I suspect that 1/4"
> might be better.   I am extremely unhappy to report the steady drip I'm
> getting from the centerboard cap.  I tried to torque the screws down, but
> that didn't solve (or help) the problem.  Therefore I took the boat out of
> the water and expect to remove the centerboard cap and do a better job
> cleaning the mating surfaces before reassembling.  Question for anyone who
> has removed the centerboard cap:  did you use any sort of caulking or
> sealant when reassembling the cap?Were the screws sufficient to create a
> tight seal?
> > Thanks,     Peter
>


From recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com  Tue May 21 16:19:18 2024
From: recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com (peter beckerman)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2024 16:19:18 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Centerboard control line size/leak
Message-ID: <E1s9Vx8-00000002YxN-2FjO@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

Michael,
   Thanks, that's very generous.  I think my gasket is in okay shape.  I'm pretty sure that I was not paying enough attention to ensuring that the mating surfaces were clean prior to reassembling.  My plan is to remove the cap, thoroughly clean and then put it back together.  If I'm unable to get a good seal I'll repeat with silicone seal as Roger suggested.  I'd prefer not to use adhesive as I might want to paint the centerboard in a couple of years and I don't have access to a hoist.  I also failed to torque the screws in a chris cross pattern which may have led to some uneven spots.  

Thanks again 
   Peter

[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]


From recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com  Tue May 21 16:23:52 2024
From: recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com (peter beckerman)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2024 20:23:52 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Bilge pump placement
References: <1390139.2206999.1716323032076.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1390139.2206999.1716323032076@mail.yahoo.com>

?My boat has been pretty dry, so I have not felt the need for an electric bilge pump, but my recent centerboard experience has made me want to install one at least temporarily until I know I've got a good seal.? I'm thinking that the bow end of the centerboard trunk is a good spot.? Is there a better place?
Thanks?? ? Peter

From peter at sunnybeeches.com  Tue May 21 18:35:59 2024
From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2024 18:35:59 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Bilge pump placement
Message-ID: <E1s9Y5P-00000004Ng0-24aN@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

I?m pretty sure that?s the place most people choose.

Peter Nyberg
Coventry, CT 
s/v Silverheels (1988/2016)


[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]

> On 2024-05-21, at 16:23:52 EDT, peter beckerman wrote:
>
> My boat has been pretty dry, so I have not felt the need for an electric 
> bilge pump, but my recent centerboard experience has made me want to install one 
> at least temporarily until I know I've got a good seal.&nbsp; I'm thinking that 
> the bow end of the centerboard trunk is a good spot.&nbsp; Is there a better 
> place? 
> Thanks&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp; Peter
> 



From gstewart.gm at gmail.com  Tue May 21 20:28:18 2024
From: gstewart.gm at gmail.com (Graham Stewart)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2024 20:28:18 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Bilge pump placement
In-Reply-To: <1390139.2206999.1716323032076@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1390139.2206999.1716323032076.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1390139.2206999.1716323032076@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CACdaeT62DUPgsh7mdPQYqUMo6eOSutbNDTHXXpfAdpNfEzh34g@mail.gmail.com>

That is where I have mine. That seems like the low point.

Graham Stewart
gstewart.gm at gmail.com


On Tue, May 21, 2024 at 4:23 PM peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list <
rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:

>  My boat has been pretty dry, so I have not felt the need for an electric
> bilge pump, but my recent centerboard experience has made me want to
> install one at least temporarily until I know I've got a good seal.  I'm
> thinking that the bow end of the centerboard trunk is a good spot.  Is
> there a better place?
> Thanks     Peter
>

From thyatt at mica.edu  Wed May 22 19:20:07 2024
From: thyatt at mica.edu (Tom Hyatt)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2024 19:20:07 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] What's the centerboard made of?
Message-ID: <CAEhtY2J=WA4n7ya8HYD9bYtGo57gazsGa1Q6bUG-CFzi9SB1=Q@mail.gmail.com>

I am having an issue with my centerboard not dropping when I release the
line. All of the blocks seemed to be operating correctly. So I pulled the
cap and removed the centerboard (with major difficulty)

It appears that the board is rubbing against the opening where the fattest
part of the board fits into the centerboard slot. I think I want to sand
down the centerboard in this area but I have no idea what its composition
is and how much can be sanded safely (if at all).

The other option is to sand inside the slot but that seems to present more
issues with getting any sort of tool up there. Hand sanding that part would
be an option.

Any help would be appreciated.

Tom Hyatt
Eliza Jane, 1978
Middle River, MD

From gstewart.gm at gmail.com  Wed May 22 22:11:25 2024
From: gstewart.gm at gmail.com (Graham Stewart)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2024 22:11:25 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] What's the centerboard made of?
In-Reply-To: <CAEhtY2J=WA4n7ya8HYD9bYtGo57gazsGa1Q6bUG-CFzi9SB1=Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAEhtY2J=WA4n7ya8HYD9bYtGo57gazsGa1Q6bUG-CFzi9SB1=Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CACdaeT6PO_Cei57OZEFbhi6YSsnBh9kZvgyjcXytx8oLwxjj2g@mail.gmail.com>

Tom:

I don't want to alarm you but there may be more serious problems that you
would want to rule out.

If the centerboard has started rubbing against the sides of the centerboard
slot, I think you need to determine exactly what the cause is. This is
particularly the case if your boat is subject to winter freezing.

Water can make its way into the centerboard and/or the housing where, I
discovered, there were many substantial voids. Water freezing will expand
the sides. Just sanding down the surface will not fix the problem in
this case.

Use something like a tack hammer to thoroughly tap the sides of the board
and and housing listening for dead spots that indicate voids. Also, check
carefully for signs of expansion such as fine cracks. You might use a
straight edge on the housing sides to see if they are bowed.

Fixing the centerboard is not too difficult. if you find voids you can
drill holes into the voids and inject epoxy into them using a large
syringe. You need two holes for each void - one to inject the epoxy and the
other to allow the air to escape. Fill the void until the epoxy comes up
the air hole.

The sides of the centerboard can be sanded down but if you go through the
gelcoat you need to fix the surface with epoxy.

If the problem is in the housing, the fix is considerably more difficult
because there is no easy access.  In my case, I found that the bottom of
the keel had a huge crack that completely encircled the centerboard slot. I
think that damage was caused when a previous owner put a board under the
keel when the boat was on the trailer. Big mistake!  I would check that
out.

By drilling a lot of holes into the keel from the outside and down through
the bottom of the boat, I was able to fill the voids, as best I could tell,
with polyester resin. I used polyester resin because it is much cheaper
than epoxy and, in this case, I was not looking for strength. It took 3
gallons of the stuff! That was a LOT of room for water,

Once the core was filled with resin, I was able to sand down the inner
walls of the slot. I put a very coarse sanding disk on a pad that I then
attached to a rod attached to a reciprocating saw to sand those surfaces.
It worked but was not a job I would want to have to do again.

 Hopefully, this is not what has happened to your boat but I would want to
rule it out.

The age of your boat might be an important factor to consider. The older
boats were not built nearly as well as later boats. Mine is 1976 which
places it squarely in the "old boat" category.

Lou Rosenbourg (I might have his last name spelled wrong) documented
extensive repairs to the inside of his centerboard housing and all that
information is in the archives.



Graham Stewart
Agile 76


On Wed, May 22, 2024 at 7:20?PM Tom Hyatt via Rhodes22-list <
rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:

> I am having an issue with my centerboard not dropping when I release the
> line. All of the blocks seemed to be operating correctly. So I pulled the
> cap and removed the centerboard (with major difficulty)
>
> It appears that the board is rubbing against the opening where the fattest
> part of the board fits into the centerboard slot. I think I want to sand
> down the centerboard in this area but I have no idea what its composition
> is and how much can be sanded safely (if at all).
>
> The other option is to sand inside the slot but that seems to present more
> issues with getting any sort of tool up there. Hand sanding that part would
> be an option.
>
> Any help would be appreciated.
>
> Tom Hyatt
> Eliza Jane, 1978
> Middle River, MD
>

From peter at sunnybeeches.com  Thu May 23 06:19:32 2024
From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2024 06:19:32 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] What's the centerboard made of?
Message-ID: <E1sA5Xo-00000007u1x-2UiE@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

Lou and Roger?s document about centerboard and trunk repair is in the ?Documents? section of the website, and can be found here: http://www.rhodes22.org/documents/r22boardtrunk.pdf

I?m hoping your problem is confined to the centerboard itself.

Peter Nyberg
Coventry, CT
s/v Silverheels (1988/2016)

[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]


From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Thu May 23 08:57:14 2024
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2024 12:57:14 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] What's the centerboard made of?
In-Reply-To: <CAEhtY2J=WA4n7ya8HYD9bYtGo57gazsGa1Q6bUG-CFzi9SB1=Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAEhtY2J=WA4n7ya8HYD9bYtGo57gazsGa1Q6bUG-CFzi9SB1=Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <MN2PR10MB4288F2297807F875EF44FF1380F42@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Hi Tom,

The centerboard and rudder blades are made in two halves.  These two halves are then joined around a metal armature and glued together.  Ballast for the hydrofoils to have negative buoyancy is provided by a mixture of lead and concrete.  Your centerboard sounds like it may have developed a leak somewhere around the centerline joint allowing water to penetrate into the interior.  When this water froze, it expanded and caused the swelling you observe.  Also, cement will absorb water and continue to expand long after it has nominally cured.  If this is what happened to your centerboard; then, the only fix will be to cut the board apart on the joint, separate the two halves, remove the XS cement, and reassemble.  Although I've never done it, this job sounds pretty awful and messy.  I do not recommend sanding either the centerboard or the walls of the centerboard well as you will compromise the structural integrity.  It may be cheaper/easier to purchase a new centerboard.  Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.  Good luck!

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
1978  Sanford, MI

________________________________
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of Tom Hyatt via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2024 7:20 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] What's the centerboard made of?

I am having an issue with my centerboard not dropping when I release the
line. All of the blocks seemed to be operating correctly. So I pulled the
cap and removed the centerboard (with major difficulty)

It appears that the board is rubbing against the opening where the fattest
part of the board fits into the centerboard slot. I think I want to sand
down the centerboard in this area but I have no idea what its composition
is and how much can be sanded safely (if at all).

The other option is to sand inside the slot but that seems to present more
issues with getting any sort of tool up there. Hand sanding that part would
be an option.

Any help would be appreciated.

Tom Hyatt
Eliza Jane, 1978
Middle River, MD

From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Thu May 23 09:43:23 2024
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2024 13:43:23 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] What's the centerboard made of?
In-Reply-To: <MN2PR10MB4288F2297807F875EF44FF1380F42@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <CAEhtY2J=WA4n7ya8HYD9bYtGo57gazsGa1Q6bUG-CFzi9SB1=Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB4288F2297807F875EF44FF1380F42@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <MN2PR10MB4288193B2AF1967084062DAA80F42@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Hi Tom,

The 1st question you need to answer is:  Is my centerboard/well interference issue being caused by swelling in the centerboard, in the well, or perhaps both?  Fortunately, on our "old" boats, the centerboard and the rudder blade are the exact same hydrofoil.  So, measure the maximum thickness of your rudder blade vs your centerboard.  If they are close,  say +/- 1/4" and inspection of the centerboard reveals no water dripping out or other obvious damage; then, you can be pretty sure the interference is caused by swelling in the centerboard well.  With the centerboard out, if you inspect the ID of the centerboard well, you will very likely find cracking around the perimeter.  The FRP material can't swell that much without cracking.

About 20 years ago, I helped another "old Rhodes 22" owner, Lou Rosenburg,  repair a centerboard well swelling problem.  The initial symptoms were an interference fit between the centerboard and well.  We coauthored a white paper on our repair.  Peter Nyburg recently sent you a link to this white paper from the archives.  I recommend you read the white paper.  I was a lot younger then; but even then, that sort of repair would have been more than I was willing to put into an old boat.  I've always admired Lou for seeing it thru to completion.  I hope your issue is swelling in the centerboard and not the well.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
1978  Sanford, MI

________________________________
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2024 8:57 AM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>; Tom Hyatt <thyatt at mica.edu>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] What's the centerboard made of?

Hi Tom,

The centerboard and rudder blades are made in two halves.  These two halves are then joined around a metal armature and glued together.  Ballast for the hydrofoils to have negative buoyancy is provided by a mixture of lead and concrete.  Your centerboard sounds like it may have developed a leak somewhere around the centerline joint allowing water to penetrate into the interior.  When this water froze, it expanded and caused the swelling you observe.  Also, cement will absorb water and continue to expand long after it has nominally cured.  If this is what happened to your centerboard; then, the only fix will be to cut the board apart on the joint, separate the two halves, remove the XS cement, and reassemble.  Although I've never done it, this job sounds pretty awful and messy.  I do not recommend sanding either the centerboard or the walls of the centerboard well as you will compromise the structural integrity.  It may be cheaper/easier to purchase a new centerboard.  Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.  Good luck!

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
1978  Sanford, MI

________________________________
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of Tom Hyatt via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2024 7:20 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] What's the centerboard made of?

I am having an issue with my centerboard not dropping when I release the
line. All of the blocks seemed to be operating correctly. So I pulled the
cap and removed the centerboard (with major difficulty)

It appears that the board is rubbing against the opening where the fattest
part of the board fits into the centerboard slot. I think I want to sand
down the centerboard in this area but I have no idea what its composition
is and how much can be sanded safely (if at all).

The other option is to sand inside the slot but that seems to present more
issues with getting any sort of tool up there. Hand sanding that part would
be an option.

Any help would be appreciated.

Tom Hyatt
Eliza Jane, 1978
Middle River, MD

From recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com  Thu May 23 10:30:09 2024
From: recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com (peter beckerman)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2024 10:30:09 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] What's the centerboard made of?
Message-ID: <E1sA9SL-0000000BGks-0Tbl@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

A quick way to check if the trunk is swollen would be to cut a piece of scrap wood to a bit under the interior width of the trunk.  You can mount a handle on it and use it as a feeler gauge to make sure the trunk has (relatively) uniform thickness.  

Best of luck,
      Peter

[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]


From michael.4591 at gmail.com  Thu May 23 12:20:58 2024
From: michael.4591 at gmail.com (Michael Corley)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2024 12:20:58 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Bimini Estimate
Message-ID: <CACSd1jJpve15DWMv-s3k_Ztv7+t5OUnpgrFd8HSOHBo8knACxg@mail.gmail.com>

I got an estimate from a local canvass shop of $821 to replace my Bimini on
my 99 Rhodes.  That seems high.

Mike Corley
Hampton Roads, VA

From rlowe at vt.edu  Thu May 23 14:14:30 2024
From: rlowe at vt.edu (Lowe, Rob)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2024 18:14:30 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Bimini Estimate
In-Reply-To: <CACSd1jJpve15DWMv-s3k_Ztv7+t5OUnpgrFd8HSOHBo8knACxg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CACSd1jJpve15DWMv-s3k_Ztv7+t5OUnpgrFd8HSOHBo8knACxg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <DM6PR05MB69851B19772C00894259BAADC1F42@DM6PR05MB6985.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>

Is that for just the cloth part or for the supporting structure too? Does seem high, but then sources for biminis are slim.

Rob

Get Outlook for Android<https://aka.ms/AAb9ysg>
________________________________
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of Michael Corley <michael.4591 at gmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2024 12:20:58 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Bimini Estimate

I got an estimate from a local canvass shop of $821 to replace my Bimini on
my 99 Rhodes.  That seems high.

Mike Corley
Hampton Roads, VA

From talbotdavid50 at gmail.com  Thu May 23 16:37:40 2024
From: talbotdavid50 at gmail.com (David Talbot)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2024 16:37:40 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Bimini Estimate
In-Reply-To: <DM6PR05MB69851B19772C00894259BAADC1F42@DM6PR05MB6985.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>
References: <DM6PR05MB69851B19772C00894259BAADC1F42@DM6PR05MB6985.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <F06AD3BC-4FEE-4488-A4F3-70924E4CE7CE@gmail.com>

I live in Beaufort nc
Have a R22 Bimini in my storage unit in excellent condition
David T
336-543-6879 

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 23, 2024, at 2:14 PM, Lowe, Rob <rlowe at vt.edu> wrote:
> 
> ?Is that for just the cloth part or for the supporting structure too? Does seem high, but then sources for biminis are slim.
> 
> Rob
> 
> Get Outlook for Android<https://aka.ms/AAb9ysg>
> ________________________________
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of Michael Corley <michael.4591 at gmail.com>
> Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2024 12:20:58 PM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Bimini Estimate
> 
> I got an estimate from a local canvass shop of $821 to replace my Bimini on
> my 99 Rhodes.  That seems high.
> 
> Mike Corley
> Hampton Roads, VA

From peter at sunnybeeches.com  Thu May 23 17:51:21 2024
From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2024 17:51:21 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Bimini Estimate
Message-ID: <E1sAGLJ-0000000H9Bz-3Dhl@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

A few years ago I had new fabric sewn for my bimini by a local shop that was literally a guy in his garage.  I don't remember what I paid, but it was more than that.

Peter Nyberg
Coventry, CT
s/v Silverheels (1988/2016)


[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]

> On 2024-05-23, at 12:20:58 EDT, Michael Corley wrote:
>
> I got an estimate from a local canvass shop of $821 to replace my Bimini on my 
> 99 Rhodes.  That seems high. 
> 
> Mike Corley
> Hampton Roads, VA
> 



From goldsmith.cf at gmail.com  Thu May 23 18:01:45 2024
From: goldsmith.cf at gmail.com (Frank Goldsmith)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2024 18:01:45 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Bimini Estimate
In-Reply-To: <E1sAGLJ-0000000H9Bz-3Dhl@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
References: <E1sAGLJ-0000000H9Bz-3Dhl@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
Message-ID: <D3EE008A-1BA5-484B-932F-DB6F8892F540@gmail.com>

In 2016 I paid a guy in our sailing club (?a guy in his garage,? as Peter said) $525 for a new bimini cover (I already had the frame).  That was 8 years ago, and of course prices could vary regionally.  

Frank


Frank Goldsmith
S/V Mary Bess (Rhodes 22 1985/2001)
Fairview, NC
Lake Keowee, SC


> On May 23, 2024, at 5:51?PM, Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com> wrote:
> 
> A few years ago I had new fabric sewn for my bimini by a local shop that was literally a guy in his garage.  I don't remember what I paid, but it was more than that.
> 
> Peter Nyberg
> Coventry, CT
> s/v Silverheels (1988/2016)
> 
> 
> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
> 
>> On 2024-05-23, at 12:20:58 EDT, Michael Corley wrote:
>> 
>> I got an estimate from a local canvass shop of $821 to replace my Bimini on my 
>> 99 Rhodes.  That seems high. 
>> 
>> Mike Corley
>> Hampton Roads, VA
>> 
> 
> 


From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Thu May 23 18:10:28 2024
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2024 22:10:28 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Bimini Estimate
In-Reply-To: <E1sAGLJ-0000000H9Bz-3Dhl@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
References: <E1sAGLJ-0000000H9Bz-3Dhl@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
Message-ID: <MN2PR10MB4288DFC9BAB6820401799D5380F42@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Mike,

You didn?t say if your quote included the tubing, pivots, straps, storage boot, etc or just the fabric.  You also didn?t say what fabric - Sunbrella acrylic, PVC, etc.  If it was just PVC fabric; then, you paid too much.  If it was a complete Sunbrella top with tubing, pivots, straps, plus a storage boot; then, you got a good deal.

Roger Pihlaja 
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium 
1978  Sanford, MI

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 23, 2024, at 5:51?PM, Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com> wrote:
> 
> ?A few years ago I had new fabric sewn for my bimini by a local shop that was literally a guy in his garage.  I don't remember what I paid, but it was more than that.
> 
> Peter Nyberg
> Coventry, CT
> s/v Silverheels (1988/2016)
> 
> 
> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
> 
>> On 2024-05-23, at 12:20:58 EDT, Michael Corley wrote:
>> 
>> I got an estimate from a local canvass shop of $821 to replace my Bimini on my
>> 99 Rhodes.  That seems high.
>> 
>> Mike Corley
>> Hampton Roads, VA
>> 
> 
> 

From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Thu May 23 18:11:04 2024
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2024 22:11:04 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list]  Bimini Estimate
Message-ID: <MN2PR10MB428802750B7741E2EE3F0BA980F42@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Mike,

You didn?t say if your quote included the tubing, pivots, straps, storage boot, etc or just the fabric.  You also didn?t say what fabric - Sunbrella acrylic, PVC, etc.  If it was just PVC fabric; then, you paid too much.  If it was a complete Sunbrella top with tubing, pivots, straps, plus a storage boot; then, you got a good deal.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
1978  Sanford, MI

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 23, 2024, at 5:51?PM, Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com> wrote:
> 
> ?A few years ago I had new fabric sewn for my bimini by a local shop that was literally a guy in his garage.  I don't remember what I paid, but it was more than that.
> 
> Peter Nyberg
> Coventry, CT
> s/v Silverheels (1988/2016)
> 
> 
> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
> 
>> On 2024-05-23, at 12:20:58 EDT, Michael Corley wrote:
>> I got an estimate from a local canvass shop of $821 to replace my Bimini on my
>> 99 Rhodes.  That seems high.
>> Mike Corley
>> Hampton Roads, VA

From thyatt at mica.edu  Thu May 23 20:00:34 2024
From: thyatt at mica.edu (Tom Hyatt)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2024 20:00:34 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Bimini Estimate
In-Reply-To: <MN2PR10MB428802750B7741E2EE3F0BA980F42@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <MN2PR10MB428802750B7741E2EE3F0BA980F42@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAEhtY2L0+vr0BGpuvgCn+JGYBUA1EsMhA0DrUMC=V661YthaiQ@mail.gmail.com>

A large variety of different sizes, quality, fabrics here.
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=bimini+top&ref=nb_sb_noss

On Thu, May 23, 2024 at 6:11 PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:

> Mike,
>
> You didn?t say if your quote included the tubing, pivots, straps, storage
> boot, etc or just the fabric.  You also didn?t say what fabric - Sunbrella
> acrylic, PVC, etc.  If it was just PVC fabric; then, you paid too much.  If
> it was a complete Sunbrella top with tubing, pivots, straps, plus a storage
> boot; then, you got a good deal.
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> 1978  Sanford, MI
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On May 23, 2024, at 5:51?PM, Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com>
> wrote:
> >
> > ?A few years ago I had new fabric sewn for my bimini by a local shop
> that was literally a guy in his garage.  I don't remember what I paid, but
> it was more than that.
> >
> > Peter Nyberg
> > Coventry, CT
> > s/v Silverheels (1988/2016)
> >
> >
> > [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
> >
> >> On 2024-05-23, at 12:20:58 EDT, Michael Corley wrote:
> >> I got an estimate from a local canvass shop of $821 to replace my
> Bimini on my
> >> 99 Rhodes.  That seems high.
> >> Mike Corley
> >> Hampton Roads, VA
>

From rlowe at vt.edu  Fri May 24 11:22:40 2024
From: rlowe at vt.edu (Lowe, Rob)
Date: Fri, 24 May 2024 15:22:40 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Bimini Estimate
In-Reply-To: <CAEhtY2L0+vr0BGpuvgCn+JGYBUA1EsMhA0DrUMC=V661YthaiQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <MN2PR10MB428802750B7741E2EE3F0BA980F42@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAEhtY2L0+vr0BGpuvgCn+JGYBUA1EsMhA0DrUMC=V661YthaiQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <DM6PR05MB6985B3041FCC0E9491576E0BC1F52@DM6PR05MB6985.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>

I bought a bimini from an outfit such as this.  I got one season out of it before the tubing broke.  Pay attention to what you are buying.  You get what you pay for.

Rob
________________________________
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of Tom Hyatt via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2024 8:00 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Bimini Estimate

A large variety of different sizes, quality, fabrics here.
https://nam04.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2Fs%3Fk%3Dbimini%2Btop%26ref%3Dnb_sb_noss&data=05%7C02%7Crlowe%40vt.edu%7Ce183f14ba9f048ffabde08dc7b84943e%7C6095688410ad40fa863d4f32c1e3a37a%7C0%7C0%7C638521056573537790%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C0%7C%7C%7C&sdata=vwVTbgg5oqMuG13m2l0gs9ZIcnK79GuVj38mHu%2BVEok%3D&reserved=0<https://www.amazon.com/s?k=bimini+top&ref=nb_sb_noss>

On Thu, May 23, 2024 at 6:11 PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:

> Mike,
>
> You didn?t say if your quote included the tubing, pivots, straps, storage
> boot, etc or just the fabric.  You also didn?t say what fabric - Sunbrella
> acrylic, PVC, etc.  If it was just PVC fabric; then, you paid too much.  If
> it was a complete Sunbrella top with tubing, pivots, straps, plus a storage
> boot; then, you got a good deal.
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> 1978  Sanford, MI
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On May 23, 2024, at 5:51?PM, Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com>
> wrote:
> >
> > ?A few years ago I had new fabric sewn for my bimini by a local shop
> that was literally a guy in his garage.  I don't remember what I paid, but
> it was more than that.
> >
> > Peter Nyberg
> > Coventry, CT
> > s/v Silverheels (1988/2016)
> >
> >
> > [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
> >
> >> On 2024-05-23, at 12:20:58 EDT, Michael Corley wrote:
> >> I got an estimate from a local canvass shop of $821 to replace my
> Bimini on my
> >> 99 Rhodes.  That seems high.
> >> Mike Corley
> >> Hampton Roads, VA
>

From rosie.krueger at gmail.com  Sat May 25 08:49:46 2024
From: rosie.krueger at gmail.com (Rosie Krueger)
Date: Sat, 25 May 2024 08:49:46 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Appropriate fuse for power lift winch (and Hello!)
Message-ID: <CACzBh2kcWA2A5kXtWb57RbPxwYkmtBduLPpQJprGWP_OsG-yFA@mail.gmail.com>

Hello all,

New owners of a 2007 Rhodes 22 (formerly "Last Mango" - about to be
renamed) in Vermont.  Thanks to the wonders of the archives and search
function, I haven't posted yet because all of my questions had already been
asked and answered sometime in the last 22 years - an amazing resource!

Here's one I couldn't find though:

The TLDR of my long explanation below is that I'm wondering if anyone has
any input on the appropriate size fuse to use for the wiring leading to
the power lift winch.  Will 30 Amps be too small?

I am doing some preliminary wiring fixes before we launch.  A prior owner
made some sloppy electrical additions, including a bunch of wire nut
connections and other funky things that I want to clean up.  Thanks to a
recommendation here, I got a copy of "Sailboat Electrics Simplified" and
have been working my way through understanding everything.  One major issue
seems to be that only a few of the (many!) wires leading out of the
positive battery terminals have fuses.  I'm planning to remedy this by
adding some terminal mount fuse blocks, with a separate fuse for each
outgoing wire.

One of the wires that is not fuse protected is the one that leads from the
starter battery to the terminal connection in the lazarette.
Previously, this terminal connection also powered the electric start
outboard, but we've removed the gas outboard and switched to a battery
powered epropulsion spirit - so we no longer need this terminal to do
anything except power the winch for the lift, and power a separate line to
an existing 12 v outlet in the cockpit.  I doubt we'll use the 12v outlet
at the same time as the power lift, but it's possible we could forget
something is plugged in.

The wire leading from the "starter" battery to this terminal appears to be
10 AWG, although it's not actually labeled and is a little larger in
diameter than the labeled 10 AWG wire that runs from the terminal to the
winch. The winch is a Bad Land 2500 ATV winch and doesn't appear to have
any legible labeling about its power draw or fuse size.  The manual for a
similar winch has a chart showing a huge range in Amp draw from 10 - 132,
with 10 Amps when pulling 0 kg at 4.1 mph and 55 amps when pulling 1000kg
at 2.5 mph.  Based on that and the rule about sizing the fuse to save the
wire, I'm thinking about trying a 30 amp fuse.  The type of battery mount
terminal blocks available for 30 amps and below and 30 amps and above are
different, so it wouldn't be a matter of just changing out the fuse if I
initially go too small  (For those interested, I'm planning to use the Blue
Sea ST-Blade Battery Terminal Mount Fuse Block - 5023 for everything else.
For this use, would be choosing between that and Blue Sea Systems Single
MRBF Terminal Fuse Block - 5191).  The larger MRBF fuses also seem like a
specialty marine item that has to be special ordered - much less convenient
for potential future replacement than the blade fuses available at my
hardware store.

So, any thoughts or input on this?  Do others have fuses on this wire? If
so, what size?  If not, am I being overly cautious in installing a fuse
here?

Thanks, all!
Rosie

From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Sat May 25 09:20:04 2024
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Sat, 25 May 2024 13:20:04 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Appropriate fuse for power lift winch (and
 Hello!)
In-Reply-To: <CACzBh2kcWA2A5kXtWb57RbPxwYkmtBduLPpQJprGWP_OsG-yFA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CACzBh2kcWA2A5kXtWb57RbPxwYkmtBduLPpQJprGWP_OsG-yFA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <MN2PR10MB4288D92344ED3EFC001FC34380F62@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Hi Rosie,

Assuming the wire runs, counting both + & - legs, are less than 5 meters and the wire runs are not at elevated temperature or thermally insulated, 10 AWG wire is rated for up to 30 amps in continuous service.  Your winch is capable of drawing much more than that if heavily loaded.  You are proposing to use the winch to lift an electric outboard?  Under normal service, the current draw should not blow the 30 amp fuse.  But, if something were to jam or seize up ... well that's what fuses are for.  Remember to use 10 AWG wire and a HD 12 VDC receptacle for your cockpit power port.  It would actually be better practice to put the power port on a smaller, more appropriately sized circuit.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
1978  Sanford, MI
________________________________
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of Rosie Krueger <rosie.krueger at gmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 25, 2024 8:49 AM
To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Appropriate fuse for power lift winch (and Hello!)

Hello all,

New owners of a 2007 Rhodes 22 (formerly "Last Mango" - about to be
renamed) in Vermont.  Thanks to the wonders of the archives and search
function, I haven't posted yet because all of my questions had already been
asked and answered sometime in the last 22 years - an amazing resource!

Here's one I couldn't find though:

The TLDR of my long explanation below is that I'm wondering if anyone has
any input on the appropriate size fuse to use for the wiring leading to
the power lift winch.  Will 30 Amps be too small?

I am doing some preliminary wiring fixes before we launch.  A prior owner
made some sloppy electrical additions, including a bunch of wire nut
connections and other funky things that I want to clean up.  Thanks to a
recommendation here, I got a copy of "Sailboat Electrics Simplified" and
have been working my way through understanding everything.  One major issue
seems to be that only a few of the (many!) wires leading out of the
positive battery terminals have fuses.  I'm planning to remedy this by
adding some terminal mount fuse blocks, with a separate fuse for each
outgoing wire.

One of the wires that is not fuse protected is the one that leads from the
starter battery to the terminal connection in the lazarette.
Previously, this terminal connection also powered the electric start
outboard, but we've removed the gas outboard and switched to a battery
powered epropulsion spirit - so we no longer need this terminal to do
anything except power the winch for the lift, and power a separate line to
an existing 12 v outlet in the cockpit.  I doubt we'll use the 12v outlet
at the same time as the power lift, but it's possible we could forget
something is plugged in.

The wire leading from the "starter" battery to this terminal appears to be
10 AWG, although it's not actually labeled and is a little larger in
diameter than the labeled 10 AWG wire that runs from the terminal to the
winch. The winch is a Bad Land 2500 ATV winch and doesn't appear to have
any legible labeling about its power draw or fuse size.  The manual for a
similar winch has a chart showing a huge range in Amp draw from 10 - 132,
with 10 Amps when pulling 0 kg at 4.1 mph and 55 amps when pulling 1000kg
at 2.5 mph.  Based on that and the rule about sizing the fuse to save the
wire, I'm thinking about trying a 30 amp fuse.  The type of battery mount
terminal blocks available for 30 amps and below and 30 amps and above are
different, so it wouldn't be a matter of just changing out the fuse if I
initially go too small  (For those interested, I'm planning to use the Blue
Sea ST-Blade Battery Terminal Mount Fuse Block - 5023 for everything else.
For this use, would be choosing between that and Blue Sea Systems Single
MRBF Terminal Fuse Block - 5191).  The larger MRBF fuses also seem like a
specialty marine item that has to be special ordered - much less convenient
for potential future replacement than the blade fuses available at my
hardware store.

So, any thoughts or input on this?  Do others have fuses on this wire? If
so, what size?  If not, am I being overly cautious in installing a fuse
here?

Thanks, all!
Rosie

From rosie.krueger at gmail.com  Sat May 25 09:52:43 2024
From: rosie.krueger at gmail.com (Rosie Krueger)
Date: Sat, 25 May 2024 09:52:43 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Appropriate fuse for power lift winch (and
	Hello!)
In-Reply-To: <MN2PR10MB4288D92344ED3EFC001FC34380F62@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <CACzBh2kcWA2A5kXtWb57RbPxwYkmtBduLPpQJprGWP_OsG-yFA@mail.gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB4288D92344ED3EFC001FC34380F62@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CACzBh2=GGKZJPNpM0NjSZjBwEDU3QqAnorJPbh3RuYsrRh0oGQ@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks, Roger!  Yes, exactly.  It feels a bit silly to use the lift for
such a small outboard, but since it?s there already it seems easier to add
a fuse than switch out the lift for a manual one.  The 12v outlet is
already there and has no labeling whatsoever.  I was thinking about adding
a smaller fuse just after the terminal to protect that one, but maybe I
should just remove it completely.  Trying to avoid doing too much actual
rewiring until we have a chance to sail the boat and see how we use it!

Another question - the terminal in the lazerette is just a couple of bolts
mounted to a plastic block, and doesn?t have any sort of cover.  That seems
like it might have been built that way - if anyone has added a cover, I?d
be interested to hear what worked.  I was thinking about getting some
rubber battery terminal covers and trying to rig them up.  The second
anchor lives down there and I can imagine it sliding over and making some
exciting contact when heeling?.but if everyone else?s are that way and have
had no problems then I might leave it.

Best,
Rosie

On Sat, May 25, 2024 at 9:20?AM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:

> Hi Rosie,
>
> Assuming the wire runs, counting both + & - legs, are less than 5 meters
> and the wire runs are not at elevated temperature or thermally insulated,
> 10 AWG wire is rated for up to 30 amps in continuous service.  Your winch
> is capable of drawing much more than that if heavily loaded.  You are
> proposing to use the winch to lift an electric outboard?  Under normal
> service, the current draw should not blow the 30 amp fuse.  But, if
> something were to jam or seize up ... well that's what fuses are for.
> Remember to use 10 AWG wire and a HD 12 VDC receptacle for your cockpit
> power port.  It would actually be better practice to put the power port on
> a smaller, more appropriately sized circuit.
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> 1978  Sanford, MI
> ________________________________
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> Rosie Krueger <rosie.krueger at gmail.com>
> Sent: Saturday, May 25, 2024 8:49 AM
> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Appropriate fuse for power lift winch (and Hello!)
>
> Hello all,
>
> New owners of a 2007 Rhodes 22 (formerly "Last Mango" - about to be
> renamed) in Vermont.  Thanks to the wonders of the archives and search
> function, I haven't posted yet because all of my questions had already been
> asked and answered sometime in the last 22 years - an amazing resource!
>
> Here's one I couldn't find though:
>
> The TLDR of my long explanation below is that I'm wondering if anyone has
> any input on the appropriate size fuse to use for the wiring leading to
> the power lift winch.  Will 30 Amps be too small?
>
> I am doing some preliminary wiring fixes before we launch.  A prior owner
> made some sloppy electrical additions, including a bunch of wire nut
> connections and other funky things that I want to clean up.  Thanks to a
> recommendation here, I got a copy of "Sailboat Electrics Simplified" and
> have been working my way through understanding everything.  One major issue
> seems to be that only a few of the (many!) wires leading out of the
> positive battery terminals have fuses.  I'm planning to remedy this by
> adding some terminal mount fuse blocks, with a separate fuse for each
> outgoing wire.
>
> One of the wires that is not fuse protected is the one that leads from the
> starter battery to the terminal connection in the lazarette.
> Previously, this terminal connection also powered the electric start
> outboard, but we've removed the gas outboard and switched to a battery
> powered epropulsion spirit - so we no longer need this terminal to do
> anything except power the winch for the lift, and power a separate line to
> an existing 12 v outlet in the cockpit.  I doubt we'll use the 12v outlet
> at the same time as the power lift, but it's possible we could forget
> something is plugged in.
>
> The wire leading from the "starter" battery to this terminal appears to be
> 10 AWG, although it's not actually labeled and is a little larger in
> diameter than the labeled 10 AWG wire that runs from the terminal to the
> winch. The winch is a Bad Land 2500 ATV winch and doesn't appear to have
> any legible labeling about its power draw or fuse size.  The manual for a
> similar winch has a chart showing a huge range in Amp draw from 10 - 132,
> with 10 Amps when pulling 0 kg at 4.1 mph and 55 amps when pulling 1000kg
> at 2.5 mph.  Based on that and the rule about sizing the fuse to save the
> wire, I'm thinking about trying a 30 amp fuse.  The type of battery mount
> terminal blocks available for 30 amps and below and 30 amps and above are
> different, so it wouldn't be a matter of just changing out the fuse if I
> initially go too small  (For those interested, I'm planning to use the Blue
> Sea ST-Blade Battery Terminal Mount Fuse Block - 5023 for everything else.
> For this use, would be choosing between that and Blue Sea Systems Single
> MRBF Terminal Fuse Block - 5191).  The larger MRBF fuses also seem like a
> specialty marine item that has to be special ordered - much less convenient
> for potential future replacement than the blade fuses available at my
> hardware store.
>
> So, any thoughts or input on this?  Do others have fuses on this wire? If
> so, what size?  If not, am I being overly cautious in installing a fuse
> here?
>
> Thanks, all!
> Rosie
>

From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Sat May 25 09:53:14 2024
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Sat, 25 May 2024 13:53:14 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Appropriate fuse for power lift winch (and
 Hello!)
In-Reply-To: <MN2PR10MB4288D92344ED3EFC001FC34380F62@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <CACzBh2kcWA2A5kXtWb57RbPxwYkmtBduLPpQJprGWP_OsG-yFA@mail.gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB4288D92344ED3EFC001FC34380F62@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <MN2PR10MB42882CBA9305D2EFE59C432580F62@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Hi Rosie,

There is another reason not to put a bigger fuse in the electric outboard lift circuit.  I don?t know how much force a GBI outboard motor mount can handle.  But, if something were to jam or seize up, the winch you are proposing to use might be capable of pulling the motor mount apart if not fuse limited.  That sounds like the start of a bad day on the water to me!

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium 
1978. Sanford, MI

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 25, 2024, at 9:20?AM, ROGER PIHLAJA <Roger_Pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
> 
> ?Hi Rosie,
> 
> Assuming the wire runs, counting both + & - legs, are less than 5 meters and the wire runs are not at elevated temperature or thermally insulated, 10 AWG wire is rated for up to 30 amps in continuous service.  Your winch is capable of drawing much more than that if heavily loaded.  You are proposing to use the winch to lift an electric outboard?  Under normal service, the current draw should not blow the 30 amp fuse.  But, if something were to jam or seize up ... well that's what fuses are for.  Remember to use 10 AWG wire and a HD 12 VDC receptacle for your cockpit power port.  It would actually be better practice to put the power port on a smaller, more appropriately sized circuit.
> 
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> 1978  Sanford, MI
> ________________________________
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of Rosie Krueger <rosie.krueger at gmail.com>
> Sent: Saturday, May 25, 2024 8:49 AM
> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Appropriate fuse for power lift winch (and Hello!)
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> New owners of a 2007 Rhodes 22 (formerly "Last Mango" - about to be
> renamed) in Vermont.  Thanks to the wonders of the archives and search
> function, I haven't posted yet because all of my questions had already been
> asked and answered sometime in the last 22 years - an amazing resource!
> 
> Here's one I couldn't find though:
> 
> The TLDR of my long explanation below is that I'm wondering if anyone has
> any input on the appropriate size fuse to use for the wiring leading to
> the power lift winch.  Will 30 Amps be too small?
> 
> I am doing some preliminary wiring fixes before we launch.  A prior owner
> made some sloppy electrical additions, including a bunch of wire nut
> connections and other funky things that I want to clean up.  Thanks to a
> recommendation here, I got a copy of "Sailboat Electrics Simplified" and
> have been working my way through understanding everything.  One major issue
> seems to be that only a few of the (many!) wires leading out of the
> positive battery terminals have fuses.  I'm planning to remedy this by
> adding some terminal mount fuse blocks, with a separate fuse for each
> outgoing wire.
> 
> One of the wires that is not fuse protected is the one that leads from the
> starter battery to the terminal connection in the lazarette.
> Previously, this terminal connection also powered the electric start
> outboard, but we've removed the gas outboard and switched to a battery
> powered epropulsion spirit - so we no longer need this terminal to do
> anything except power the winch for the lift, and power a separate line to
> an existing 12 v outlet in the cockpit.  I doubt we'll use the 12v outlet
> at the same time as the power lift, but it's possible we could forget
> something is plugged in.
> 
> The wire leading from the "starter" battery to this terminal appears to be
> 10 AWG, although it's not actually labeled and is a little larger in
> diameter than the labeled 10 AWG wire that runs from the terminal to the
> winch. The winch is a Bad Land 2500 ATV winch and doesn't appear to have
> any legible labeling about its power draw or fuse size.  The manual for a
> similar winch has a chart showing a huge range in Amp draw from 10 - 132,
> with 10 Amps when pulling 0 kg at 4.1 mph and 55 amps when pulling 1000kg
> at 2.5 mph.  Based on that and the rule about sizing the fuse to save the
> wire, I'm thinking about trying a 30 amp fuse.  The type of battery mount
> terminal blocks available for 30 amps and below and 30 amps and above are
> different, so it wouldn't be a matter of just changing out the fuse if I
> initially go too small  (For those interested, I'm planning to use the Blue
> Sea ST-Blade Battery Terminal Mount Fuse Block - 5023 for everything else.
> For this use, would be choosing between that and Blue Sea Systems Single
> MRBF Terminal Fuse Block - 5191).  The larger MRBF fuses also seem like a
> specialty marine item that has to be special ordered - much less convenient
> for potential future replacement than the blade fuses available at my
> hardware store.
> 
> So, any thoughts or input on this?  Do others have fuses on this wire? If
> so, what size?  If not, am I being overly cautious in installing a fuse
> here?
> 
> Thanks, all!
> Rosie

From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Sat May 25 10:13:07 2024
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Sat, 25 May 2024 14:13:07 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Appropriate fuse for power lift winch
	(and	Hello!)
In-Reply-To: <CACzBh2=GGKZJPNpM0NjSZjBwEDU3QqAnorJPbh3RuYsrRh0oGQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CACzBh2kcWA2A5kXtWb57RbPxwYkmtBduLPpQJprGWP_OsG-yFA@mail.gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB4288D92344ED3EFC001FC34380F62@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CACzBh2=GGKZJPNpM0NjSZjBwEDU3QqAnorJPbh3RuYsrRh0oGQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <MN2PR10MB42886269275297D98838740580F62@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Hi Rosie,

My Rhodes 22 has the manual 6:1 GBI motor mount.  SO, I don?t have the But, Murphy?s Law would argue against any exposed electrical terminals in the lazarette compartment.  Think about the sort of conditions it would take to make gear shift around enough to make a short circuit.  Then think about not being able to raise or lower your outboard! 

One of the things I really like about the GBI motor mount is the ability to run the outboard in any position from fully up to fully down.  The reality of small sailboat sailing in heavy weather is that to make any progress to windward, we must motor sail.  On port tack, I can lower the GBi mount all the way down to keep the lower unit submerged.  On starboard tack, I can raise the mount up to keep the power head out of the water.  This feature of the GBI motor mount gives the Rhodes 22 significantly more heavy weather capability vs similar sized sailboats.  You wouldn?t want to build in a crippling failure mode that would strike at just the moment wherein you need the ability to adjust the outboard?s vertical position.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium 
1978. Sanford, MI

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 25, 2024, at 9:53?AM, Rosie Krueger <rosie.krueger at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?Thanks, Roger!  Yes, exactly.  It feels a bit silly to use the lift for
> such a small outboard, but since it?s there already it seems easier to add
> a fuse than switch out the lift for a manual one.  The 12v outlet is
> already there and has no labeling whatsoever.  I was thinking about adding
> a smaller fuse just after the terminal to protect that one, but maybe I
> should just remove it completely.  Trying to avoid doing too much actual
> rewiring until we have a chance to sail the boat and see how we use it!
> 
> Another question - the terminal in the lazerette is just a couple of bolts
> mounted to a plastic block, and doesn?t have any sort of cover.  That seems
> like it might have been built that way - if anyone has added a cover, I?d
> be interested to hear what worked.  I was thinking about getting some
> rubber battery terminal covers and trying to rig them up.  The second
> anchor lives down there and I can imagine it sliding over and making some
> exciting contact when heeling?.but if everyone else?s are that way and have
> had no problems then I might leave it.
> 
> Best,
> Rosie
> 
>> On Sat, May 25, 2024 at 9:20?AM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Hi Rosie,
>> 
>> Assuming the wire runs, counting both + & - legs, are less than 5 meters
>> and the wire runs are not at elevated temperature or thermally insulated,
>> 10 AWG wire is rated for up to 30 amps in continuous service.  Your winch
>> is capable of drawing much more than that if heavily loaded.  You are
>> proposing to use the winch to lift an electric outboard?  Under normal
>> service, the current draw should not blow the 30 amp fuse.  But, if
>> something were to jam or seize up ... well that's what fuses are for.
>> Remember to use 10 AWG wire and a HD 12 VDC receptacle for your cockpit
>> power port.  It would actually be better practice to put the power port on
>> a smaller, more appropriately sized circuit.
>> 
>> Roger Pihlaja
>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>> 1978  Sanford, MI
>> ________________________________
>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
>> Rosie Krueger <rosie.krueger at gmail.com>
>> Sent: Saturday, May 25, 2024 8:49 AM
>> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Appropriate fuse for power lift winch (and Hello!)
>> 
>> Hello all,
>> 
>> New owners of a 2007 Rhodes 22 (formerly "Last Mango" - about to be
>> renamed) in Vermont.  Thanks to the wonders of the archives and search
>> function, I haven't posted yet because all of my questions had already been
>> asked and answered sometime in the last 22 years - an amazing resource!
>> 
>> Here's one I couldn't find though:
>> 
>> The TLDR of my long explanation below is that I'm wondering if anyone has
>> any input on the appropriate size fuse to use for the wiring leading to
>> the power lift winch.  Will 30 Amps be too small?
>> 
>> I am doing some preliminary wiring fixes before we launch.  A prior owner
>> made some sloppy electrical additions, including a bunch of wire nut
>> connections and other funky things that I want to clean up.  Thanks to a
>> recommendation here, I got a copy of "Sailboat Electrics Simplified" and
>> have been working my way through understanding everything.  One major issue
>> seems to be that only a few of the (many!) wires leading out of the
>> positive battery terminals have fuses.  I'm planning to remedy this by
>> adding some terminal mount fuse blocks, with a separate fuse for each
>> outgoing wire.
>> 
>> One of the wires that is not fuse protected is the one that leads from the
>> starter battery to the terminal connection in the lazarette.
>> Previously, this terminal connection also powered the electric start
>> outboard, but we've removed the gas outboard and switched to a battery
>> powered epropulsion spirit - so we no longer need this terminal to do
>> anything except power the winch for the lift, and power a separate line to
>> an existing 12 v outlet in the cockpit.  I doubt we'll use the 12v outlet
>> at the same time as the power lift, but it's possible we could forget
>> something is plugged in.
>> 
>> The wire leading from the "starter" battery to this terminal appears to be
>> 10 AWG, although it's not actually labeled and is a little larger in
>> diameter than the labeled 10 AWG wire that runs from the terminal to the
>> winch. The winch is a Bad Land 2500 ATV winch and doesn't appear to have
>> any legible labeling about its power draw or fuse size.  The manual for a
>> similar winch has a chart showing a huge range in Amp draw from 10 - 132,
>> with 10 Amps when pulling 0 kg at 4.1 mph and 55 amps when pulling 1000kg
>> at 2.5 mph.  Based on that and the rule about sizing the fuse to save the
>> wire, I'm thinking about trying a 30 amp fuse.  The type of battery mount
>> terminal blocks available for 30 amps and below and 30 amps and above are
>> different, so it wouldn't be a matter of just changing out the fuse if I
>> initially go too small  (For those interested, I'm planning to use the Blue
>> Sea ST-Blade Battery Terminal Mount Fuse Block - 5023 for everything else.
>> For this use, would be choosing between that and Blue Sea Systems Single
>> MRBF Terminal Fuse Block - 5191).  The larger MRBF fuses also seem like a
>> specialty marine item that has to be special ordered - much less convenient
>> for potential future replacement than the blade fuses available at my
>> hardware store.
>> 
>> So, any thoughts or input on this?  Do others have fuses on this wire? If
>> so, what size?  If not, am I being overly cautious in installing a fuse
>> here?
>> 
>> Thanks, all!
>> Rosie
>> 

From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Sat May 25 10:22:35 2024
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Sat, 25 May 2024 14:22:35 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] GBI Motor Mount
In-Reply-To: <MN2PR10MB42886269275297D98838740580F62@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <CACzBh2kcWA2A5kXtWb57RbPxwYkmtBduLPpQJprGWP_OsG-yFA@mail.gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB4288D92344ED3EFC001FC34380F62@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CACzBh2=GGKZJPNpM0NjSZjBwEDU3QqAnorJPbh3RuYsrRh0oGQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB42886269275297D98838740580F62@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <MN2PR10MB42885E20F34E23DDFAB819CC80F62@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>


Sent from my iPhone

Begin forwarded message:

From: ROGER PIHLAJA <Roger_Pihlaja at msn.com>
Date: May 25, 2024 at 10:13:15?AM EDT
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Appropriate fuse for power lift winch (and Hello!)
Reply-To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>

?Hi Rosie,

My Rhodes 22 has the manual 6:1 GBI motor mount.  SO, I don?t have the electrical terminals to which you refer.  But, Murphy?s Law would argue against any exposed electrical terminals in the lazarette compartment.  Think about the sort of conditions it would take to make gear shift around enough to make a short circuit.  Then think about not being able to raise or lower your outboard in those conditions!

One of the things I really like about the GBI motor mount is the ability to run the outboard in any position from fully up to fully down.  The reality of small sailboat sailing in heavy weather is that to make any progress to windward, we must motor sail.  On port tack, I can lower the GBI mount all the way down to keep the lower unit submerged.  On starboard tack, I can raise the mount up to keep the power head out of the water.  This feature of the GBI motor mount gives the Rhodes 22 significantly more heavy weather capability vs similar sized sailboats with transom mounted outboards.  You wouldn?t want to build in a crippling failure mode that would strike at just the moment wherein you need the ability to adjust the outboard?s vertical position.  For me, this would be a critical safety issue.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
1978. Sanford, MI

Sent from my iPhone

On May 25, 2024, at 9:53?AM, Rosie Krueger <rosie.krueger at gmail.com> wrote:

?Thanks, Roger!  Yes, exactly.  It feels a bit silly to use the lift for
such a small outboard, but since it?s there already it seems easier to add
a fuse than switch out the lift for a manual one.  The 12v outlet is
already there and has no labeling whatsoever.  I was thinking about adding
a smaller fuse just after the terminal to protect that one, but maybe I
should just remove it completely.  Trying to avoid doing too much actual
rewiring until we have a chance to sail the boat and see how we use it!

Another question - the terminal in the lazerette is just a couple of bolts
mounted to a plastic block, and doesn?t have any sort of cover.  That seems
like it might have been built that way - if anyone has added a cover, I?d
be interested to hear what worked.  I was thinking about getting some
rubber battery terminal covers and trying to rig them up.  The second
anchor lives down there and I can imagine it sliding over and making some
exciting contact when heeling?.but if everyone else?s are that way and have
had no problems then I might leave it.

Best,
Rosie

On Sat, May 25, 2024 at 9:20?AM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:

Hi Rosie,

Assuming the wire runs, counting both + & - legs, are less than 5 meters
and the wire runs are not at elevated temperature or thermally insulated,
10 AWG wire is rated for up to 30 amps in continuous service.  Your winch
is capable of drawing much more than that if heavily loaded.  You are
proposing to use the winch to lift an electric outboard?  Under normal
service, the current draw should not blow the 30 amp fuse.  But, if
something were to jam or seize up ... well that's what fuses are for.
Remember to use 10 AWG wire and a HD 12 VDC receptacle for your cockpit
power port.  It would actually be better practice to put the power port on
a smaller, more appropriately sized circuit.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
1978  Sanford, MI
________________________________
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
Rosie Krueger <rosie.krueger at gmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 25, 2024 8:49 AM
To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Appropriate fuse for power lift winch (and Hello!)

Hello all,

New owners of a 2007 Rhodes 22 (formerly "Last Mango" - about to be
renamed) in Vermont.  Thanks to the wonders of the archives and search
function, I haven't posted yet because all of my questions had already been
asked and answered sometime in the last 22 years - an amazing resource!

Here's one I couldn't find though:

The TLDR of my long explanation below is that I'm wondering if anyone has
any input on the appropriate size fuse to use for the wiring leading to
the power lift winch.  Will 30 Amps be too small?

I am doing some preliminary wiring fixes before we launch.  A prior owner
made some sloppy electrical additions, including a bunch of wire nut
connections and other funky things that I want to clean up.  Thanks to a
recommendation here, I got a copy of "Sailboat Electrics Simplified" and
have been working my way through understanding everything.  One major issue
seems to be that only a few of the (many!) wires leading out of the
positive battery terminals have fuses.  I'm planning to remedy this by
adding some terminal mount fuse blocks, with a separate fuse for each
outgoing wire.

One of the wires that is not fuse protected is the one that leads from the
starter battery to the terminal connection in the lazarette.
Previously, this terminal connection also powered the electric start
outboard, but we've removed the gas outboard and switched to a battery
powered epropulsion spirit - so we no longer need this terminal to do
anything except power the winch for the lift, and power a separate line to
an existing 12 v outlet in the cockpit.  I doubt we'll use the 12v outlet
at the same time as the power lift, but it's possible we could forget
something is plugged in.

The wire leading from the "starter" battery to this terminal appears to be
10 AWG, although it's not actually labeled and is a little larger in
diameter than the labeled 10 AWG wire that runs from the terminal to the
winch. The winch is a Bad Land 2500 ATV winch and doesn't appear to have
any legible labeling about its power draw or fuse size.  The manual for a
similar winch has a chart showing a huge range in Amp draw from 10 - 132,
with 10 Amps when pulling 0 kg at 4.1 mph and 55 amps when pulling 1000kg
at 2.5 mph.  Based on that and the rule about sizing the fuse to save the
wire, I'm thinking about trying a 30 amp fuse.  The type of battery mount
terminal blocks available for 30 amps and below and 30 amps and above are
different, so it wouldn't be a matter of just changing out the fuse if I
initially go too small  (For those interested, I'm planning to use the Blue
Sea ST-Blade Battery Terminal Mount Fuse Block - 5023 for everything else.
For this use, would be choosing between that and Blue Sea Systems Single
MRBF Terminal Fuse Block - 5191).  The larger MRBF fuses also seem like a
specialty marine item that has to be special ordered - much less convenient
for potential future replacement than the blade fuses available at my
hardware store.

So, any thoughts or input on this?  Do others have fuses on this wire? If
so, what size?  If not, am I being overly cautious in installing a fuse
here?

Thanks, all!
Rosie


From rlowe at vt.edu  Sat May 25 10:47:56 2024
From: rlowe at vt.edu (Lowe, Rob)
Date: Sat, 25 May 2024 14:47:56 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Appropriate fuse for power lift winch (and
 Hello!)
In-Reply-To: <MN2PR10MB42882CBA9305D2EFE59C432580F62@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <CACzBh2kcWA2A5kXtWb57RbPxwYkmtBduLPpQJprGWP_OsG-yFA@mail.gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB4288D92344ED3EFC001FC34380F62@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <MN2PR10MB42882CBA9305D2EFE59C432580F62@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <DM6PR05MB69858B07ABBA6EA9047A7499C1F62@DM6PR05MB6985.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>

Please remember any fuses are there to protect the wiring, not the device connected to the wiring.  You want to use a fuse that will trip/blow before the wiring overheats.  You can overload wiring for short periods of time, but you want the fusing to be sized for constant current at the load.  An internet search should give you some good guidelines.

Rob

________________________________
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 25, 2024 9:53 AM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Appropriate fuse for power lift winch (and Hello!)

Hi Rosie,

There is another reason not to put a bigger fuse in the electric outboard lift circuit.  I don?t know how much force a GBI outboard motor mount can handle.  But, if something were to jam or seize up, the winch you are proposing to use might be capable of pulling the motor mount apart if not fuse limited.  That sounds like the start of a bad day on the water to me!

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
1978. Sanford, MI

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 25, 2024, at 9:20?AM, ROGER PIHLAJA <Roger_Pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
>
> ?Hi Rosie,
>
> Assuming the wire runs, counting both + & - legs, are less than 5 meters and the wire runs are not at elevated temperature or thermally insulated, 10 AWG wire is rated for up to 30 amps in continuous service.  Your winch is capable of drawing much more than that if heavily loaded.  You are proposing to use the winch to lift an electric outboard?  Under normal service, the current draw should not blow the 30 amp fuse.  But, if something were to jam or seize up ... well that's what fuses are for.  Remember to use 10 AWG wire and a HD 12 VDC receptacle for your cockpit power port.  It would actually be better practice to put the power port on a smaller, more appropriately sized circuit.
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> 1978  Sanford, MI
> ________________________________
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of Rosie Krueger <rosie.krueger at gmail.com>
> Sent: Saturday, May 25, 2024 8:49 AM
> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Appropriate fuse for power lift winch (and Hello!)
>
> Hello all,
>
> New owners of a 2007 Rhodes 22 (formerly "Last Mango" - about to be
> renamed) in Vermont.  Thanks to the wonders of the archives and search
> function, I haven't posted yet because all of my questions had already been
> asked and answered sometime in the last 22 years - an amazing resource!
>
> Here's one I couldn't find though:
>
> The TLDR of my long explanation below is that I'm wondering if anyone has
> any input on the appropriate size fuse to use for the wiring leading to
> the power lift winch.  Will 30 Amps be too small?
>
> I am doing some preliminary wiring fixes before we launch.  A prior owner
> made some sloppy electrical additions, including a bunch of wire nut
> connections and other funky things that I want to clean up.  Thanks to a
> recommendation here, I got a copy of "Sailboat Electrics Simplified" and
> have been working my way through understanding everything.  One major issue
> seems to be that only a few of the (many!) wires leading out of the
> positive battery terminals have fuses.  I'm planning to remedy this by
> adding some terminal mount fuse blocks, with a separate fuse for each
> outgoing wire.
>
> One of the wires that is not fuse protected is the one that leads from the
> starter battery to the terminal connection in the lazarette.
> Previously, this terminal connection also powered the electric start
> outboard, but we've removed the gas outboard and switched to a battery
> powered epropulsion spirit - so we no longer need this terminal to do
> anything except power the winch for the lift, and power a separate line to
> an existing 12 v outlet in the cockpit.  I doubt we'll use the 12v outlet
> at the same time as the power lift, but it's possible we could forget
> something is plugged in.
>
> The wire leading from the "starter" battery to this terminal appears to be
> 10 AWG, although it's not actually labeled and is a little larger in
> diameter than the labeled 10 AWG wire that runs from the terminal to the
> winch. The winch is a Bad Land 2500 ATV winch and doesn't appear to have
> any legible labeling about its power draw or fuse size.  The manual for a
> similar winch has a chart showing a huge range in Amp draw from 10 - 132,
> with 10 Amps when pulling 0 kg at 4.1 mph and 55 amps when pulling 1000kg
> at 2.5 mph.  Based on that and the rule about sizing the fuse to save the
> wire, I'm thinking about trying a 30 amp fuse.  The type of battery mount
> terminal blocks available for 30 amps and below and 30 amps and above are
> different, so it wouldn't be a matter of just changing out the fuse if I
> initially go too small  (For those interested, I'm planning to use the Blue
> Sea ST-Blade Battery Terminal Mount Fuse Block - 5023 for everything else.
> For this use, would be choosing between that and Blue Sea Systems Single
> MRBF Terminal Fuse Block - 5191).  The larger MRBF fuses also seem like a
> specialty marine item that has to be special ordered - much less convenient
> for potential future replacement than the blade fuses available at my
> hardware store.
>
> So, any thoughts or input on this?  Do others have fuses on this wire? If
> so, what size?  If not, am I being overly cautious in installing a fuse
> here?
>
> Thanks, all!
> Rosie

From michael.4591 at gmail.com  Sat May 25 12:06:01 2024
From: michael.4591 at gmail.com (Michael Corley)
Date: Sat, 25 May 2024 12:06:01 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Bimini Estimate
In-Reply-To: <D3EE008A-1BA5-484B-932F-DB6F8892F540@gmail.com>
References: <E1sAGLJ-0000000H9Bz-3Dhl@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
 <D3EE008A-1BA5-484B-932F-DB6F8892F540@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CACSd1jLFKTpfdifFesxQgtamoxr92EBunmN3ZRVKfqAOpMUBXQ@mail.gmail.com>

     Thanks for all the feedback, it is much appreciated.  I feel a little
bit better now.  Negotiated it down to $720. Yes, it is just for the fabric
part and new straps.  They will reuse the metal frame.  No boot. It is a
good quality marine fabric, better than what is on it now, but not
sunbrella.  The shop owner was not a fan of Sunbrella for Biminis due to
its high cost.  The shop, A Stitch Above, is a small local business with a
good reputation, although a bit pricey.  My original Bimini came thru GB
and I got 21 yrs out of it.  I am leery of buying something online, sight
unseen.  As Rob mentioned, "you get what you pay for."

-Mike
s/v Ranger
99 Rhodes

On Thu, May 23, 2024 at 6:02?PM Frank Goldsmith <goldsmith.cf at gmail.com>
wrote:

> In 2016 I paid a guy in our sailing club (?a guy in his garage,? as Peter
> said) $525 for a new bimini cover (I already had the frame).  That was 8
> years ago, and of course prices could vary regionally.
>
> Frank
>
>
> Frank Goldsmith
> S/V Mary Bess (Rhodes 22 1985/2001)
> Fairview, NC
> Lake Keowee, SC
>
>
> > On May 23, 2024, at 5:51?PM, Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com>
> wrote:
> >
> > A few years ago I had new fabric sewn for my bimini by a local shop that
> was literally a guy in his garage.  I don't remember what I paid, but it
> was more than that.
> >
> > Peter Nyberg
> > Coventry, CT
> > s/v Silverheels (1988/2016)
> >
> >
> > [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
> >
> >> On 2024-05-23, at 12:20:58 EDT, Michael Corley wrote:
> >>
> >> I got an estimate from a local canvass shop of $821 to replace my
> Bimini on my
> >> 99 Rhodes.  That seems high.
> >>
> >> Mike Corley
> >> Hampton Roads, VA
> >>
> >
> >
>
>

From michael.4591 at gmail.com  Sat May 25 15:09:20 2024
From: michael.4591 at gmail.com (Michael Corley)
Date: Sat, 25 May 2024 15:09:20 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Quick release levers for shrouds?
In-Reply-To: <D55C679D-5C4A-4B9A-B528-52D0489980CE@gmail.com>
References: <D55C679D-5C4A-4B9A-B528-52D0489980CE@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CACSd1jJ-Oig5tAG2FOJ9rNa=QnTJcr8_q2Em41ew05rpX780UA@mail.gmail.com>

Sounds like you are talking about something more extensive, but decades ago
when I trailered sailed my first Rhodes I used quick release pins.  Never
had a problem with them, never had one come out on me.  Definitely sped up
raising and lowering the mast.

-Mike
s/v Ranger, 99 Rhodes
Hampton Roads, VA

On Mon, May 13, 2024 at 11:01?PM Michael McKay <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
wrote:

> I am contemplating installing quick release levers for some of my shrouds
> to simplify mast raising/lowering and reduce the need to retune the rig
> every time.
>
> Has anyone done this and do you have specifics about what was required?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Michael McKay
> s/v Liber, 2006/2018
> Woodstock, GA
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone

From peter at sunnybeeches.com  Sat May 25 16:35:47 2024
From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg)
Date: Sat, 25 May 2024 16:35:47 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Appropriate fuse for power lift winch (and
	Hello!)
Message-ID: <E1sAy7H-0000000BJoI-0khw@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

Rosie,

Welcome to 'da list'! 

I'm happy to hear to that you've found the archives and the search function useful.  But I'm also happy that you've found a reason to post to the list.  

My boat came from General Boats with a power lift for the outboard, but I decided that I didn't like it and removed it years ago.  Like yours, mine had no fuse, so I can't offer any insight, but you've already gotten some good advice from other list members.

Now that you've posted at least once, you're able to create a login for Rhodes22.net, which I can see you've already done.  Thanks for updating your member profile, complete with Hull ID!

I hope you have a good season of sailing on Lake Champlain, once the ice melts :^)

--Peter

[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]


From rlowe at vt.edu  Sat May 25 17:52:25 2024
From: rlowe at vt.edu (Lowe, Rob)
Date: Sat, 25 May 2024 21:52:25 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Bimini Estimate
In-Reply-To: <CACSd1jLFKTpfdifFesxQgtamoxr92EBunmN3ZRVKfqAOpMUBXQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <E1sAGLJ-0000000H9Bz-3Dhl@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
 <D3EE008A-1BA5-484B-932F-DB6F8892F540@gmail.com>
 <CACSd1jLFKTpfdifFesxQgtamoxr92EBunmN3ZRVKfqAOpMUBXQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <DM6PR05MB6985D6084F5694162E2F885EC1F62@DM6PR05MB6985.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>

Mike,
Good to know. The boot/cover would be something to consider, although the wasps love to build their nests in them!

Rob

Get Outlook for Android<https://aka.ms/AAb9ysg>
________________________________
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of Michael Corley <michael.4591 at gmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 25, 2024 12:06:01 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Bimini Estimate

     Thanks for all the feedback, it is much appreciated.  I feel a little
bit better now.  Negotiated it down to $720. Yes, it is just for the fabric
part and new straps.  They will reuse the metal frame.  No boot. It is a
good quality marine fabric, better than what is on it now, but not
sunbrella.  The shop owner was not a fan of Sunbrella for Biminis due to
its high cost.  The shop, A Stitch Above, is a small local business with a
good reputation, although a bit pricey.  My original Bimini came thru GB
and I got 21 yrs out of it.  I am leery of buying something online, sight
unseen.  As Rob mentioned, "you get what you pay for."

-Mike
s/v Ranger
99 Rhodes

On Thu, May 23, 2024 at 6:02?PM Frank Goldsmith <goldsmith.cf at gmail.com>
wrote:

> In 2016 I paid a guy in our sailing club (?a guy in his garage,? as Peter
> said) $525 for a new bimini cover (I already had the frame).  That was 8
> years ago, and of course prices could vary regionally.
>
> Frank
>
>
> Frank Goldsmith
> S/V Mary Bess (Rhodes 22 1985/2001)
> Fairview, NC
> Lake Keowee, SC
>
>
> > On May 23, 2024, at 5:51?PM, Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com>
> wrote:
> >
> > A few years ago I had new fabric sewn for my bimini by a local shop that
> was literally a guy in his garage.  I don't remember what I paid, but it
> was more than that.
> >
> > Peter Nyberg
> > Coventry, CT
> > s/v Silverheels (1988/2016)
> >
> >
> > [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
> >
> >> On 2024-05-23, at 12:20:58 EDT, Michael Corley wrote:
> >>
> >> I got an estimate from a local canvass shop of $821 to replace my
> Bimini on my
> >> 99 Rhodes.  That seems high.
> >>
> >> Mike Corley
> >> Hampton Roads, VA
> >>
> >
> >
>
>

From gramille at tds.net  Sun May 26 13:04:47 2024
From: gramille at tds.net (Graham Parker)
Date: Sun, 26 May 2024 13:04:47 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] topping lift?
Message-ID: <36483E10-1581-4763-8365-B654B0E96062@tds.net>

Hi everyone,
 I am not sure if the line that controls the boom height is really called a topping lift? but that is the line I am talking about. It came out of the masthead top pulley during mast raising and now I have to drop the mast and re rig it so I want to make sure I do it correctly. Is there a diagram anywhere in the archives? I think the line goes from the rear top of the boom up into a pulley (one or two pulleys?) on the top of the mast and then down on the aft side of the port spreader and into the cleat on the cabin top?
Can anyone clarify before I drop the mast?
Cheers
Graham Parker
sv 00Sailin
Lake Champlain

From recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com  Sun May 26 13:23:57 2024
From: recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com (peter beckerman)
Date: Sun, 26 May 2024 13:23:57 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] topping lift?
Message-ID: <E1sBHbB-00000008jSH-3lAy@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

Hi, 
   It is indeed the topping lift.  I won't call this definitive, but on my boat the line runs forward of the spreaders, port side.  Undoubtedly someone with more experience will chime in.

Peter

[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]


From shawn.sustain at gmail.com  Sun May 26 15:03:57 2024
From: shawn.sustain at gmail.com (Shawn Boles)
Date: Sun, 26 May 2024 12:03:57 -0700
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] topping lift?
In-Reply-To: <E1sBHbB-00000008jSH-3lAy@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
References: <E1sBHbB-00000008jSH-3lAy@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
Message-ID: <CAMzGxuP1vB-PBEWFJJAbhjJXj2bobWO9LbhHKUGxy-b9Hoa5Lg@mail.gmail.com>

Hi all:

Mine runs aft of spreader on port side, then through a  small spring
turning block by aft shroud, to cleat on cabin top.

Cheers,

Shawn
S/V Sweet Baboo (1986/2010)


On Sun, May 26, 2024, 10:24?AM peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list <
rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:

> Hi,
>    It is indeed the topping lift.  I won't call this definitive, but on my
> boat the line runs forward of the spreaders, port side.  Undoubtedly
> someone with more experience will chime in.
>
> Peter
>
> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
>
>

From gramille at tds.net  Sun May 26 20:25:54 2024
From: gramille at tds.net (Graham Parker)
Date: Sun, 26 May 2024 20:25:54 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] topping lift?
In-Reply-To: <CAMzGxuP1vB-PBEWFJJAbhjJXj2bobWO9LbhHKUGxy-b9Hoa5Lg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <E1sBHbB-00000008jSH-3lAy@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
 <CAMzGxuP1vB-PBEWFJJAbhjJXj2bobWO9LbhHKUGxy-b9Hoa5Lg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <3AB76675-0B2F-48D5-853D-C3DD1BBFD190@tds.net>

Thanks guys - that?s one all!
 Other opinions invited.
and what about the pulley at the top of the mast?
Cheers
Graham


> On May 26, 2024, at 15:03, Shawn Boles <shawn.sustain at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Hi all:
> 
> Mine runs aft of spreader on port side, then through a  small spring
> turning block by aft shroud, to cleat on cabin top.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Shawn
> S/V Sweet Baboo (1986/2010)
> 
> 
> On Sun, May 26, 2024, 10:24?AM peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list <
> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> 
>> Hi,
>>   It is indeed the topping lift.  I won't call this definitive, but on my
>> boat the line runs forward of the spreaders, port side.  Undoubtedly
>> someone with more experience will chime in.
>> 
>> Peter
>> 
>> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
>> 
>> 


From peter at sunnybeeches.com  Sun May 26 21:04:53 2024
From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg)
Date: Sun, 26 May 2024 21:04:53 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] topping lift?
Message-ID: <E1sBOnF-0000000EXBQ-0Ox3@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

Graham,

There are two pulleys to port and two pulleys to starboard at the top of the mast. You would have discovered this pretty quickly once you had the mast down, and this detail doesn't really matter a great deal.  

I'm pretty sure that the location of the small block at the edge of the cabin top on my boat dictates that the topping lift line will come down to the deck forward of the spreader.  On other boats apparently that block is further aft, and the line passes aft of the spreader.  You will need to figure out which path is correct for your boat.  It should be easy to reroute the line one way or the other with a boat hook.

Peter Nyberg
Coventry, CT
s/v Silverheels (19888/2016)


[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]

> On 2024-05-26, at 13:04:47 EDT, Graham Parker wrote:
>
> Hi everyone,
>  I am not sure if the line that controls the boom height is really called a 
> topping lift? but that is the line I am talking about. It came out of the 
> masthead top pulley during mast raising and now I have to drop the mast and re 
> rig it so I want to make sure I do it correctly. Is there a diagram anywhere in 
> the archives? I think the line goes from the rear top of the boom up into a 
> pulley (one or two pulleys?) on the top of the mast and then down on the aft 
> side of the port spreader and into the cleat on the cabin top? 
> Can anyone clarify before I drop the mast?
> Cheers
> Graham Parker
> sv 00Sailin
> Lake Champlain
> 



From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Mon May 27 10:03:41 2024
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2024 14:03:41 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] topping lift?
In-Reply-To: <E1sBOnF-0000000EXBQ-0Ox3@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
References: <E1sBOnF-0000000EXBQ-0Ox3@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
Message-ID: <MN2PR10MB4288BEF73DB662883CDA8A6480F02@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Hi All,

Just to further muddy the waters, if you ever want to be able to fly a cruising or triradial spinnaker, you will find you run out of masthead blocks.  I solved this shortage by attaching my topping lift to the aft end of the masthead and running the line down to the boom.  At the aft end of the boom, I mounted a small cam cleat.  This solution has worked well.  I can adjust the topping lift from the aft end of the cockpit and I have enough halyards for my spinnakers.
Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium 
1978. Sanford, MI

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 26, 2024, at 9:05?PM, Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com> wrote:
> 
> ?Graham,
> 
> There are two pulleys to port and two pulleys to starboard at the top of the mast. You would have discovered this pretty quickly once you had the mast down, and this detail doesn't really matter a great deal.  
> 
> I'm pretty sure that the location of the small block at the edge of the cabin top on my boat dictates that the topping lift line will come down to the deck forward of the spreader.  On other boats apparently that block is further aft, and the line passes aft of the spreader.  You will need to figure out which path is correct for your boat.  It should be easy to reroute the line one way or the other with a boat hook.
> 
> Peter Nyberg
> Coventry, CT
> s/v Silverheels (19888/2016)
> 
> 
> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
> 
>> On 2024-05-26, at 13:04:47 EDT, Graham Parker wrote:
>> 
>> Hi everyone,
>> I am not sure if the line that controls the boom height is really called a
>> topping lift? but that is the line I am talking about. It came out of the
>> masthead top pulley during mast raising and now I have to drop the mast and re
>> rig it so I want to make sure I do it correctly. Is there a diagram anywhere in
>> the archives? I think the line goes from the rear top of the boom up into a
>> pulley (one or two pulleys?) on the top of the mast and then down on the aft
>> side of the port spreader and into the cleat on the cabin top?
>> Can anyone clarify before I drop the mast?
>> Cheers
>> Graham Parker
>> sv 00Sailin
>> Lake Champlain
>> 
> 
> 

From gramille at tds.net  Mon May 27 12:04:20 2024
From: gramille at tds.net (Graham Parker)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2024 12:04:20 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] topping lift?
In-Reply-To: <MN2PR10MB4288BEF73DB662883CDA8A6480F02@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <E1sBOnF-0000000EXBQ-0Ox3@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
 <MN2PR10MB4288BEF73DB662883CDA8A6480F02@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <A915E4AB-177E-4B84-91F9-F40136A49540@tds.net>

So my boat was a 2011 and the cleat for the topping lift is on the  of the port side of the cabin top. It is fed from the top of the mast through a feed halfway down the port side of cabin top. Visually it looks like it should descend aft of the spreader BUT so far this thread has a 2 -1 bias towards the line coming down in front of the spreader! I would love a few more opinions before I attempt to rig it tomorrow.
 Many thanks.
Graham Parker

> On May 27, 2024, at 10:03, ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> Just to further muddy the waters, if you ever want to be able to fly a cruising or triradial spinnaker, you will find you run out of masthead blocks.  I solved this shortage by attaching my topping lift to the aft end of the masthead and running the line down to the boom.  At the aft end of the boom, I mounted a small cam cleat.  This solution has worked well.  I can adjust the topping lift from the aft end of the cockpit and I have enough halyards for my spinnakers.
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium 
> 1978. Sanford, MI
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On May 26, 2024, at 9:05?PM, Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com> wrote:
>> 
>> ?Graham,
>> 
>> There are two pulleys to port and two pulleys to starboard at the top of the mast. You would have discovered this pretty quickly once you had the mast down, and this detail doesn't really matter a great deal.  
>> 
>> I'm pretty sure that the location of the small block at the edge of the cabin top on my boat dictates that the topping lift line will come down to the deck forward of the spreader.  On other boats apparently that block is further aft, and the line passes aft of the spreader.  You will need to figure out which path is correct for your boat.  It should be easy to reroute the line one way or the other with a boat hook.
>> 
>> Peter Nyberg
>> Coventry, CT
>> s/v Silverheels (19888/2016)
>> 
>> 
>> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
>> 
>>> On 2024-05-26, at 13:04:47 EDT, Graham Parker wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hi everyone,
>>> I am not sure if the line that controls the boom height is really called a
>>> topping lift? but that is the line I am talking about. It came out of the
>>> masthead top pulley during mast raising and now I have to drop the mast and re
>>> rig it so I want to make sure I do it correctly. Is there a diagram anywhere in
>>> the archives? I think the line goes from the rear top of the boom up into a
>>> pulley (one or two pulleys?) on the top of the mast and then down on the aft
>>> side of the port spreader and into the cleat on the cabin top?
>>> Can anyone clarify before I drop the mast?
>>> Cheers
>>> Graham Parker
>>> sv 00Sailin
>>> Lake Champlain
>>> 
>> 
>> 


From pbryanriley at gmail.com  Mon May 27 12:31:33 2024
From: pbryanriley at gmail.com (PBR)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2024 12:31:33 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] topping lift?
In-Reply-To: <A915E4AB-177E-4B84-91F9-F40136A49540@tds.net>
References: <E1sBOnF-0000000EXBQ-0Ox3@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
 <MN2PR10MB4288BEF73DB662883CDA8A6480F02@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <A915E4AB-177E-4B84-91F9-F40136A49540@tds.net>
Message-ID: <CAJGJx+BwxZnBhXQ8cJAVSmLU0DMbvnvQ=j+C+1MfoR8+z67abQ@mail.gmail.com>

It depends %100 on where your turning block is on the cabin top.  If it is
in front of the spreader position you need to run the lift line in front to
avoid rubbing on the spreader.  And vice versa.
Patrick


On Mon, May 27, 2024 at 12:12?PM Graham Parker <gramille at tds.net> wrote:

> So my boat was a 2011 and the cleat for the topping lift is on the  of the
> port side of the cabin top. It is fed from the top of the mast through a
> feed halfway down the port side of cabin top. Visually it looks like it
> should descend aft of the spreader BUT so far this thread has a 2 -1 bias
> towards the line coming down in front of the spreader! I would love a few
> more opinions before I attempt to rig it tomorrow.
>  Many thanks.
> Graham Parker
>
> > On May 27, 2024, at 10:03, ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
> >
> > Hi All,
> >
> > Just to further muddy the waters, if you ever want to be able to fly a
> cruising or triradial spinnaker, you will find you run out of masthead
> blocks.  I solved this shortage by attaching my topping lift to the aft end
> of the masthead and running the line down to the boom.  At the aft end of
> the boom, I mounted a small cam cleat.  This solution has worked well.  I
> can adjust the topping lift from the aft end of the cockpit and I have
> enough halyards for my spinnakers.
> > Roger Pihlaja
> > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> > 1978. Sanford, MI
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone
> >
> >> On May 26, 2024, at 9:05?PM, Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com>
> wrote:
> >>
> >> ?Graham,
> >>
> >> There are two pulleys to port and two pulleys to starboard at the top
> of the mast. You would have discovered this pretty quickly once you had the
> mast down, and this detail doesn't really matter a great deal.
> >>
> >> I'm pretty sure that the location of the small block at the edge of the
> cabin top on my boat dictates that the topping lift line will come down to
> the deck forward of the spreader.  On other boats apparently that block is
> further aft, and the line passes aft of the spreader.  You will need to
> figure out which path is correct for your boat.  It should be easy to
> reroute the line one way or the other with a boat hook.
> >>
> >> Peter Nyberg
> >> Coventry, CT
> >> s/v Silverheels (19888/2016)
> >>
> >>
> >> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
> >>
> >>> On 2024-05-26, at 13:04:47 EDT, Graham Parker wrote:
> >>>
> >>> Hi everyone,
> >>> I am not sure if the line that controls the boom height is really
> called a
> >>> topping lift? but that is the line I am talking about. It came out of
> the
> >>> masthead top pulley during mast raising and now I have to drop the
> mast and re
> >>> rig it so I want to make sure I do it correctly. Is there a diagram
> anywhere in
> >>> the archives? I think the line goes from the rear top of the boom up
> into a
> >>> pulley (one or two pulleys?) on the top of the mast and then down on
> the aft
> >>> side of the port spreader and into the cleat on the cabin top?
> >>> Can anyone clarify before I drop the mast?
> >>> Cheers
> >>> Graham Parker
> >>> sv 00Sailin
> >>> Lake Champlain
> >>>
> >>
> >>
>
>

From edmc18 at gmail.com  Mon May 27 13:20:06 2024
From: edmc18 at gmail.com (Ed McNamara)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2024 13:20:06 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] topping lift?
In-Reply-To: <CAJGJx+BwxZnBhXQ8cJAVSmLU0DMbvnvQ=j+C+1MfoR8+z67abQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <E1sBOnF-0000000EXBQ-0Ox3@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
 <MN2PR10MB4288BEF73DB662883CDA8A6480F02@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <A915E4AB-177E-4B84-91F9-F40136A49540@tds.net>
 <CAJGJx+BwxZnBhXQ8cJAVSmLU0DMbvnvQ=j+C+1MfoR8+z67abQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAC-_suR_zSR6zUfvT9FZJe-seQfrSJUn2FeBHiE67XhiKvppEg@mail.gmail.com>

Totally agree with Patrick. If you decide you want to reverse what you?ve
done do what I?ve done several times? ball up the end of the line and take
a ?hook shot? to heave it over the spreader and onto the preferred side.

On Mon, May 27, 2024 at 12:31?PM PBR <pbryanriley at gmail.com> wrote:

> It depends %100 on where your turning block is on the cabin top.  If it is
> in front of the spreader position you need to run the lift line in front to
> avoid rubbing on the spreader.  And vice versa.
> Patrick
>
>
> On Mon, May 27, 2024 at 12:12?PM Graham Parker <gramille at tds.net> wrote:
>
> > So my boat was a 2011 and the cleat for the topping lift is on the  of
> the
> > port side of the cabin top. It is fed from the top of the mast through a
> > feed halfway down the port side of cabin top. Visually it looks like it
> > should descend aft of the spreader BUT so far this thread has a 2 -1 bias
> > towards the line coming down in front of the spreader! I would love a few
> > more opinions before I attempt to rig it tomorrow.
> >  Many thanks.
> > Graham Parker
> >
> > > On May 27, 2024, at 10:03, ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi All,
> > >
> > > Just to further muddy the waters, if you ever want to be able to fly a
> > cruising or triradial spinnaker, you will find you run out of masthead
> > blocks.  I solved this shortage by attaching my topping lift to the aft
> end
> > of the masthead and running the line down to the boom.  At the aft end of
> > the boom, I mounted a small cam cleat.  This solution has worked well.  I
> > can adjust the topping lift from the aft end of the cockpit and I have
> > enough halyards for my spinnakers.
> > > Roger Pihlaja
> > > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> > > 1978. Sanford, MI
> > >
> > > Sent from my iPhone
> > >
> > >> On May 26, 2024, at 9:05?PM, Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com>
> > wrote:
> > >>
> > >> ?Graham,
> > >>
> > >> There are two pulleys to port and two pulleys to starboard at the top
> > of the mast. You would have discovered this pretty quickly once you had
> the
> > mast down, and this detail doesn't really matter a great deal.
> > >>
> > >> I'm pretty sure that the location of the small block at the edge of
> the
> > cabin top on my boat dictates that the topping lift line will come down
> to
> > the deck forward of the spreader.  On other boats apparently that block
> is
> > further aft, and the line passes aft of the spreader.  You will need to
> > figure out which path is correct for your boat.  It should be easy to
> > reroute the line one way or the other with a boat hook.
> > >>
> > >> Peter Nyberg
> > >> Coventry, CT
> > >> s/v Silverheels (19888/2016)
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
> > >>
> > >>> On 2024-05-26, at 13:04:47 EDT, Graham Parker wrote:
> > >>>
> > >>> Hi everyone,
> > >>> I am not sure if the line that controls the boom height is really
> > called a
> > >>> topping lift? but that is the line I am talking about. It came out of
> > the
> > >>> masthead top pulley during mast raising and now I have to drop the
> > mast and re
> > >>> rig it so I want to make sure I do it correctly. Is there a diagram
> > anywhere in
> > >>> the archives? I think the line goes from the rear top of the boom up
> > into a
> > >>> pulley (one or two pulleys?) on the top of the mast and then down on
> > the aft
> > >>> side of the port spreader and into the cleat on the cabin top?
> > >>> Can anyone clarify before I drop the mast?
> > >>> Cheers
> > >>> Graham Parker
> > >>> sv 00Sailin
> > >>> Lake Champlain
> > >>>
> > >>
> > >>
> >
> >
>

From gramille at tds.net  Tue May 28 07:56:09 2024
From: gramille at tds.net (Graham Parker)
Date: Tue, 28 May 2024 07:56:09 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] topping lift?
In-Reply-To: <CAC-_suR_zSR6zUfvT9FZJe-seQfrSJUn2FeBHiE67XhiKvppEg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAC-_suR_zSR6zUfvT9FZJe-seQfrSJUn2FeBHiE67XhiKvppEg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <7B52B802-0B6E-47B1-A561-162FEED7D29C@tds.net>

Thanks all,
You have confirmed my initial instinct that the line should be aft of the spreader to avoid chafing. 
Hopefully I will be sailing later this week.
Have a great season everyone!
Cheers
Graham

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 27, 2024, at 1:20?PM, Ed McNamara <edmc18 at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?Totally agree with Patrick. If you decide you want to reverse what you?ve
> done do what I?ve done several times? ball up the end of the line and take
> a ?hook shot? to heave it over the spreader and onto the preferred side.
> 
>> On Mon, May 27, 2024 at 12:31?PM PBR <pbryanriley at gmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>> It depends %100 on where your turning block is on the cabin top.  If it is
>> in front of the spreader position you need to run the lift line in front to
>> avoid rubbing on the spreader.  And vice versa.
>> Patrick
>> 
>> 
>>> On Mon, May 27, 2024 at 12:12?PM Graham Parker <gramille at tds.net> wrote:
>>> 
>>> So my boat was a 2011 and the cleat for the topping lift is on the  of
>> the
>>> port side of the cabin top. It is fed from the top of the mast through a
>>> feed halfway down the port side of cabin top. Visually it looks like it
>>> should descend aft of the spreader BUT so far this thread has a 2 -1 bias
>>> towards the line coming down in front of the spreader! I would love a few
>>> more opinions before I attempt to rig it tomorrow.
>>> Many thanks.
>>> Graham Parker
>>> 
>>>> On May 27, 2024, at 10:03, ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
>> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> Hi All,
>>>> 
>>>> Just to further muddy the waters, if you ever want to be able to fly a
>>> cruising or triradial spinnaker, you will find you run out of masthead
>>> blocks.  I solved this shortage by attaching my topping lift to the aft
>> end
>>> of the masthead and running the line down to the boom.  At the aft end of
>>> the boom, I mounted a small cam cleat.  This solution has worked well.  I
>>> can adjust the topping lift from the aft end of the cockpit and I have
>>> enough halyards for my spinnakers.
>>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>>> 1978. Sanford, MI
>>>> 
>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>> 
>>>>> On May 26, 2024, at 9:05?PM, Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com>
>>> wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>> ?Graham,
>>>>> 
>>>>> There are two pulleys to port and two pulleys to starboard at the top
>>> of the mast. You would have discovered this pretty quickly once you had
>> the
>>> mast down, and this detail doesn't really matter a great deal.
>>>>> 
>>>>> I'm pretty sure that the location of the small block at the edge of
>> the
>>> cabin top on my boat dictates that the topping lift line will come down
>> to
>>> the deck forward of the spreader.  On other boats apparently that block
>> is
>>> further aft, and the line passes aft of the spreader.  You will need to
>>> figure out which path is correct for your boat.  It should be easy to
>>> reroute the line one way or the other with a boat hook.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Peter Nyberg
>>>>> Coventry, CT
>>>>> s/v Silverheels (19888/2016)
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
>>>>> 
>>>>>> On 2024-05-26, at 13:04:47 EDT, Graham Parker wrote:
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Hi everyone,
>>>>>> I am not sure if the line that controls the boom height is really
>>> called a
>>>>>> topping lift? but that is the line I am talking about. It came out of
>>> the
>>>>>> masthead top pulley during mast raising and now I have to drop the
>>> mast and re
>>>>>> rig it so I want to make sure I do it correctly. Is there a diagram
>>> anywhere in
>>>>>> the archives? I think the line goes from the rear top of the boom up
>>> into a
>>>>>> pulley (one or two pulleys?) on the top of the mast and then down on
>>> the aft
>>>>>> side of the port spreader and into the cleat on the cabin top?
>>>>>> Can anyone clarify before I drop the mast?
>>>>>> Cheers
>>>>>> Graham Parker
>>>>>> sv 00Sailin
>>>>>> Lake Champlain
>>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>