From eestijaht at aol.com  Wed Apr  2 14:45:40 2025
From: eestijaht at aol.com (eestijaht at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2025 18:45:40 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Centerboard Available?
References: <1100783389.525855.1743619540053.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1100783389.525855.1743619540053@mail.yahoo.com>

Does anyone out there know of a used or new centerboard for sale?
Rudy

From tavares0947 at gmail.com  Wed Apr  2 16:19:24 2025
From: tavares0947 at gmail.com (Todd Tavares)
Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2025 16:19:24 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Centerboard Available?
In-Reply-To: <1100783389.525855.1743619540053@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1100783389.525855.1743619540053.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1100783389.525855.1743619540053@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAB-twMOkyLpCrW6TabxZb3NCV8Y_GXChp-jZUyxGk3nEEmqTdw@mail.gmail.com>

Rudy,

Given that a centerboard is quite heavy, we would need to know where you
are located.
I'd guess that General Boats may have one.

Todd T

On Wed, Apr 2, 2025, 2:55 PM eestijaht--- via Rhodes22-list <
rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:

> Does anyone out there know of a used or new centerboard for sale?
> Rudy
>

From dsempek64506 at yahoo.com  Sun Apr  6 11:51:55 2025
From: dsempek64506 at yahoo.com (david sempek)
Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2025 15:51:55 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Scuppers
References: <1259255309.2257464.1743954715155.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1259255309.2257464.1743954715155@mail.yahoo.com>


Morning Rhodies, I am sure this has been discussed before. I want to upgrade my current factory 5/8 seat scuppers on my 1976. However not sure what size to upgrade to without doing fiberglass work to level the mounting base. Does not seem like enough room to put in The current used 1.25. Any info is appreciated.?
Yahoo Mail: Search, Organize, Conquer

From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Sun Apr  6 14:51:31 2025
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2025 18:51:31 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Scuppers
In-Reply-To: <1259255309.2257464.1743954715155@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1259255309.2257464.1743954715155@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BY5PR10MB38252E2014702DEB5A0836C280AB2@BY5PR10MB3825.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

David,

The tiny cockpit drains were one of the 1st things I replaced in my 1978 Rhodes 22.  From West Marine, you want:

Forespar 1-1/2? Cockpit Drain with Strainer
M/N: 207571  C/N: 906037  
$52.99 Each + S&H

This drain assembly will almost completely fill up the little dimples in the stern corners of the cockpit.  Seal them with 3M 5200 and use a rubber gloved fingertip to smooth the bead.  No fiberglass work reqd and this is the biggest cockpit drain that will fit.  You will need to plumb these cockpit drains with 1-1/2? hose and I would upgrade the transom thru hulls to 1-1/2?.  This upgrade makes a huge difference.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium 
1978. Sanford, MI

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 6, 2025, at 11:52?AM, david sempek via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> 
> ?
> Morning Rhodies, I am sure this has been discussed before. I want to upgrade my current factory 5/8 seat scuppers on my 1976. However not sure what size to upgrade to without doing fiberglass work to level the mounting base. Does not seem like enough room to put in The current used 1.25. Any info is appreciated. 
> Yahoo Mail: Search, Organize, Conquer

From tavares0947 at gmail.com  Mon Apr  7 07:13:28 2025
From: tavares0947 at gmail.com (Todd Tavares)
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2025 07:13:28 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Scuppers
In-Reply-To: <1259255309.2257464.1743954715155@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1259255309.2257464.1743954715155.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1259255309.2257464.1743954715155@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAB-twMMX1akm_aAUUCe3aETzwCvQ+m_ZQxwyKNGOZsJ0_uvxNA@mail.gmail.com>

David, Roger,

If I understand Roger's post, he just filled up/faired the seat corner
pocket with 5200 flush to the level of the top of the fitting?

Can you paint 5200 Roger?

Another Rhodes 22 owner epoxied a plywood ring to the underside of the seat
drain pocket. Then he had enough thickness to inset a flush mount thru-hull
fitting, to eliminate the problem of standing water around the fittings.
That post is somewhere in the Archives.

Todd T.

On Sun, Apr 6, 2025, 11:52 AM david sempek via Rhodes22-list <
rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:

>
> Morning Rhodies, I am sure this has been discussed before. I want to
> upgrade my current factory 5/8 seat scuppers on my 1976. However not sure
> what size to upgrade to without doing fiberglass work to level the mounting
> base. Does not seem like enough room to put in The current used 1.25. Any
> info is appreciated.
> Yahoo Mail: Search, Organize, Conquer
>

From luis.guzman.ve at gmail.com  Wed Apr  9 04:52:51 2025
From: luis.guzman.ve at gmail.com (Luis Guzman)
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 2025 04:52:51 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Free Boat
Message-ID: <75C63ED6-4A3D-4255-8571-EA5979044DD9@gmail.com>

Free boat on trailer. It needs some repairs.

1983 Rhodes 22.

Leaving the country and cannot take with me

It does not have a motor.

Needs jib furler

It is located in Sarasota, Florida

Sent from my iPhone

From rrago54 at gmail.com  Wed Apr  9 06:55:42 2025
From: rrago54 at gmail.com (ricardo rago)
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 2025 06:55:42 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Free Boat
In-Reply-To: <75C63ED6-4A3D-4255-8571-EA5979044DD9@gmail.com>
References: <75C63ED6-4A3D-4255-8571-EA5979044DD9@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CA+tt-SM=kWGw-_SqpmcNEiUh7zYAVA2fEW_fUMTYC1j_G+D1SQ@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Luis,

Good Morning. I'm interested, I'll  contact you privately this afternoon.

Thanks,

Kind Regards,

*Ricardo A. Rago*
*(203) 300-1001*
*rrago54 at gmail.com <rrago54 at gmail.com>*


On Wed, Apr 9, 2025 at 5:01?AM Luis Guzman <luis.guzman.ve at gmail.com> wrote:

> Free boat on trailer. It needs some repairs.
>
> 1983 Rhodes 22.
>
> Leaving the country and cannot take with me
>
> It does not have a motor.
>
> Needs jib furler
>
> It is located in Sarasota, Florida
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>

From mgwilson1916 at gmail.com  Sat Apr 12 17:51:08 2025
From: mgwilson1916 at gmail.com (mike wilson)
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2025 17:51:08 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Rhodes for Sale
Message-ID: <CAJCVun2oJgeUs403MG3GZFAveti9+GPqMWR0NeA8BgEkS_Q_oA@mail.gmail.com>

20240605_121353.jpg
<https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=3a64c321da&attid=0.5&permmsgid=msg-a:r6150224351420512948&view=att&disp=safe&realattid=f_m9er27gh4&zw>
(3,332K)
<https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=3a64c321da&attid=0.5&permmsgid=msg-a:r6150224351420512948&view=att&disp=safe&realattid=f_m9er27gh4&zw>
20240605_121353.jpg
<https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=3a64c321da&attid=0.5&permmsgid=msg-a:r6150224351420512948&view=att&disp=safe&realattid=f_m9er27gh4&zw>
(3,332K)
<https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=3a64c321da&attid=0.5&permmsgid=msg-a:r6150224351420512948&view=att&disp=safe&realattid=f_m9er27gh4&zw>1987
Rhodes 22 complete with the following:
- IMF ( in mast roller furling )
- 135 Roller furling genoa
- 9.9 Honda with electric start
- Poptop enclosure ( standing headroom when in use)
- Boom Room
- galvanized trailer with brand new brakes, brake lines, coupler/ actuator
and freshly repacked bearings
-two anchors with chain and rode
- new navy sunbrella cockpit cushions
plus safety equipment, life jackets etc. etc.

We are located 30 minutes outside of Toronto
Asking $5000.00 Cdn. approx. $ 3600.00 USD

Questions?? let us know,
thanks for looking.
Mike
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From rosie.krueger at gmail.com  Sun Apr 20 11:10:14 2025
From: rosie.krueger at gmail.com (Rosie Krueger)
Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2025 11:10:14 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Tips on removing motor lift?
Message-ID: <CACzBh2nAXh=abc-TXiFDjO_hvAexPTGsjtqeLZRws59hdJqn2Q@mail.gmail.com>

Hello all,

We're planning to remove the electric motor lift from our 2007 Rhodes and
install a Panther manual adjustable bracket instead. Before we proceed with
the project, I am wondering if anyone has any tips about removing the
electric lift setup.  I read through the "Converting Electric Winch Motor
Lift to a Manual System" thread, but that mostly seems to involve changing
the method of power for the existing lift tracks, rather than removing them
entirely.

We have a few reasons for switching.  Like others who made the manual
conversion, we don't like the vulnerability of relying on the electrical
system in a moment when we might really need the motor.  But worse, the top
of the existing lift system significantly interferes with the tiller handle
on our ePropulsion Spirit electric outboard.  The tiller handle folds up a
bit, but not far enough to allow the outboard down as far as it could go,
even with the tilt set as far back as possible.  We've also found that the
current positioning allows potential for the outboard and rudder to
collide. The Panther bracket should push the motor far enough off the back
of the boat to resolve that issue.  We did consider getting the epropulsion
throttle controller for the outboard, but that was about 2x the cost of the
panther bracket and wouldn't have solved the motor/rudder issue.  (We
already had the tiller controller from our prior boat - if you're
considering buying this outboard for an R22, definitely just go with the
throttle controller from the start).  With the light weight of the
ePropulsion, we also don't particularly need any of the assistance from
either the electric lift or a manual pulley conversion.

Anyway, all of these reasons have us feeling confident in making the
switch.  However, I never feel confident messing with holes in the hull. It
seems like it should be just a matter of unscrewing the screws on the
tracks from inside the lazarette, but I'm not sure if there's any adhesive
or other surprises awaiting us after that...So, if you've ever taken the
lift tracks off and have any advice about the process, please send them my
way!

Also, assuming the process goes successfully, we'll have a used electric
motor lift to part with - feel free to reach out if that's of interest to
you!

Happy Spring!
Rosie

From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Sun Apr 20 13:40:44 2025
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2025 17:40:44 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Tips on removing motor lift?
In-Reply-To: <CACzBh2nAXh=abc-TXiFDjO_hvAexPTGsjtqeLZRws59hdJqn2Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CACzBh2nAXh=abc-TXiFDjO_hvAexPTGsjtqeLZRws59hdJqn2Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <DM6PR10MB3836A5A30743F3ABAE254BCA80B92@DM6PR10MB3836.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Hi Rosie,

I have the manual version of the GBI motor mount.  I switched from a parallelogram type linkage motor mount very similar to the Panther mount you are proposing.  The manual version of the GBI mount offers 6:1 mechanical advantage.  My 100 lb Honda outboard is easy to lift.  I?ve never missed the electric motor.  The GBI mount offers the advantage of being able to run the motor in any position from full up to full down.  ie, when motor sailing on port tack, you can run the mount fully down.  This will help prevent cavitation when a wave passes under the stern.  On starboard tack, you can raise the mount up to prevent passing waves from submerging the power head.

With the GBI motor mount, the fully lowered rudder blade and the motor lower unit do not interfere.  The same was true with the parallelogram linkage.  However, if the rudder blade is kicked up more than ~15 degrees, there is motor lower unit/rudder blade interference with both mounts.  If you are experiencing interference with your GBI mount with the rudder blade fully lowered; then, the motor mount is probably installed too far inboard.  Relocating it towards the port side will fix the problem.

If you have ever looked off the back of the boat when traveling at or near hull speed, there is a little depression in the water just behind transom.  This is caused by water rushing back to fill in the void left by the passage of the hull.  (2 objects can?t occupy the same space at the same time). The GBI motor mount places the outboard into the water just ahead of the deepest point of that little depression.  The Panther mount will put the outboard right into the bottom of the depression.  ie, There will be effectively less water above the prop with the Panther mount vs the GBI mount.  All else being equal, the outboard on the Panther mount will cavitate sooner vs an outboard on a GBI mount.

There is also the issue of the outboard on the Panther mount being located further away from the transom.  Fore/aft pitching will cause the Panther mounted motor to experience more vertical movement, thus making it more likely to cavitate.

If you really care about being able to motor sail in heavy weather; then, you would get an extra long shaft outboard (25?) and run it on a GBI motor mount.

Have you checked into whether your electric GBI motor mount can be retrofitted with the 6:1 block and tackle manual system?

Roger Pihlaja 
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium 
1978. Sanford, MI
Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 20, 2025, at 11:10?AM, Rosie Krueger <rosie.krueger at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?Hello all,
> 
> We're planning to remove the electric motor lift from our 2007 Rhodes and
> install a Panther manual adjustable bracket instead. Before we proceed with
> the project, I am wondering if anyone has any tips about removing the
> electric lift setup.  I read through the "Converting Electric Winch Motor
> Lift to a Manual System" thread, but that mostly seems to involve changing
> the method of power for the existing lift tracks, rather than removing them
> entirely.
> 
> We have a few reasons for switching.  Like others who made the manual
> conversion, we don't like the vulnerability of relying on the electrical
> system in a moment when we might really need the motor.  But worse, the top
> of the existing lift system significantly interferes with the tiller handle
> on our ePropulsion Spirit electric outboard.  The tiller handle folds up a
> bit, but not far enough to allow the outboard down as far as it could go,
> even with the tilt set as far back as possible.  We've also found that the
> current positioning allows potential for the outboard and rudder to
> collide. The Panther bracket should push the motor far enough off the back
> of the boat to resolve that issue.  We did consider getting the epropulsion
> throttle controller for the outboard, but that was about 2x the cost of the
> panther bracket and wouldn't have solved the motor/rudder issue.  (We
> already had the tiller controller from our prior boat - if you're
> considering buying this outboard for an R22, definitely just go with the
> throttle controller from the start).  With the light weight of the
> ePropulsion, we also don't particularly need any of the assistance from
> either the electric lift or a manual pulley conversion.
> 
> Anyway, all of these reasons have us feeling confident in making the
> switch.  However, I never feel confident messing with holes in the hull. It
> seems like it should be just a matter of unscrewing the screws on the
> tracks from inside the lazarette, but I'm not sure if there's any adhesive
> or other surprises awaiting us after that...So, if you've ever taken the
> lift tracks off and have any advice about the process, please send them my
> way!
> 
> Also, assuming the process goes successfully, we'll have a used electric
> motor lift to part with - feel free to reach out if that's of interest to
> you!
> 
> Happy Spring!
> Rosie

From tvpolise at aol.com  Mon Apr 21 13:05:58 2025
From: tvpolise at aol.com (THOMAS POLISE)
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2025 13:05:58 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Tips on removing motor lift?
In-Reply-To: <CACzBh2nAXh=abc-TXiFDjO_hvAexPTGsjtqeLZRws59hdJqn2Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CACzBh2nAXh=abc-TXiFDjO_hvAexPTGsjtqeLZRws59hdJqn2Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <0C1004AE-5FE0-443B-A469-671C590828E8@aol.com>

I?m interested in this conversion also, can you send a link or catalog cut on the manual lift?

> On Apr 20, 2025, at 10:57?PM, Rosie Krueger <rosie.krueger at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?Hello all,
> 
> We're planning to remove the electric motor lift from our 2007 Rhodes and
> install a Panther manual adjustable bracket instead. Before we proceed with
> the project, I am wondering if anyone has any tips about removing the
> electric lift setup.  I read through the "Converting Electric Winch Motor
> Lift to a Manual System" thread, but that mostly seems to involve changing
> the method of power for the existing lift tracks, rather than removing them
> entirely.
> 
> We have a few reasons for switching.  Like others who made the manual
> conversion, we don't like the vulnerability of relying on the electrical
> system in a moment when we might really need the motor.  But worse, the top
> of the existing lift system significantly interferes with the tiller handle
> on our ePropulsion Spirit electric outboard.  The tiller handle folds up a
> bit, but not far enough to allow the outboard down as far as it could go,
> even with the tilt set as far back as possible.  We've also found that the
> current positioning allows potential for the outboard and rudder to
> collide. The Panther bracket should push the motor far enough off the back
> of the boat to resolve that issue.  We did consider getting the epropulsion
> throttle controller for the outboard, but that was about 2x the cost of the
> panther bracket and wouldn't have solved the motor/rudder issue.  (We
> already had the tiller controller from our prior boat - if you're
> considering buying this outboard for an R22, definitely just go with the
> throttle controller from the start).  With the light weight of the
> ePropulsion, we also don't particularly need any of the assistance from
> either the electric lift or a manual pulley conversion.
> 
> Anyway, all of these reasons have us feeling confident in making the
> switch.  However, I never feel confident messing with holes in the hull. It
> seems like it should be just a matter of unscrewing the screws on the
> tracks from inside the lazarette, but I'm not sure if there's any adhesive
> or other surprises awaiting us after that...So, if you've ever taken the
> lift tracks off and have any advice about the process, please send them my
> way!
> 
> Also, assuming the process goes successfully, we'll have a used electric
> motor lift to part with - feel free to reach out if that's of interest to
> you!
> 
> Happy Spring!
> Rosie


From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Tue Apr 22 02:07:11 2025
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2025 06:07:11 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Tips on removing motor lift?
In-Reply-To: <0C1004AE-5FE0-443B-A469-671C590828E8@aol.com>
References: <CACzBh2nAXh=abc-TXiFDjO_hvAexPTGsjtqeLZRws59hdJqn2Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <0C1004AE-5FE0-443B-A469-671C590828E8@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BY5PR10MB38252FE9A01AB6722479CAEC80BB2@BY5PR10MB3825.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Hi Thomas,

I bought the manual lift back in 2011 direct from GBI.  You would have to check with Cindy Spitzer to see if they have any more stock or if they have conversion kits.  If they don?t have any stock; then, it?s just takes a couple of Harken side-by-side 3 sheave blocks, a cam cleat, and some 5/16? line to build your own, assuming you already have an electric GBI motor mount to convert.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium 
1978. Sanford, MI

As Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 21, 2025, at 1:06?PM, THOMAS POLISE via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> ?I?m interested in this conversion also, can you send a link or catalog cut on the manual lift?
> 
>> On Apr 20, 2025, at 10:57?PM, Rosie Krueger <rosie.krueger at gmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>> ?Hello all,
>> 
>> We're planning to remove the electric motor lift from our 2007 Rhodes and
>> install a Panther manual adjustable bracket instead. Before we proceed with
>> the project, I am wondering if anyone has any tips about removing the
>> electric lift setup.  I read through the "Converting Electric Winch Motor
>> Lift to a Manual System" thread, but that mostly seems to involve changing
>> the method of power for the existing lift tracks, rather than removing them
>> entirely.
>> 
>> We have a few reasons for switching.  Like others who made the manual
>> conversion, we don't like the vulnerability of relying on the electrical
>> system in a moment when we might really need the motor.  But worse, the top
>> of the existing lift system significantly interferes with the tiller handle
>> on our ePropulsion Spirit electric outboard.  The tiller handle folds up a
>> bit, but not far enough to allow the outboard down as far as it could go,
>> even with the tilt set as far back as possible.  We've also found that the
>> current positioning allows potential for the outboard and rudder to
>> collide. The Panther bracket should push the motor far enough off the back
>> of the boat to resolve that issue.  We did consider getting the epropulsion
>> throttle controller for the outboard, but that was about 2x the cost of the
>> panther bracket and wouldn't have solved the motor/rudder issue.  (We
>> already had the tiller controller from our prior boat - if you're
>> considering buying this outboard for an R22, definitely just go with the
>> throttle controller from the start).  With the light weight of the
>> ePropulsion, we also don't particularly need any of the assistance from
>> either the electric lift or a manual pulley conversion.
>> 
>> Anyway, all of these reasons have us feeling confident in making the
>> switch.  However, I never feel confident messing with holes in the hull. It
>> seems like it should be just a matter of unscrewing the screws on the
>> tracks from inside the lazarette, but I'm not sure if there's any adhesive
>> or other surprises awaiting us after that...So, if you've ever taken the
>> lift tracks off and have any advice about the process, please send them my
>> way!
>> 
>> Also, assuming the process goes successfully, we'll have a used electric
>> motor lift to part with - feel free to reach out if that's of interest to
>> you!
>> 
>> Happy Spring!
>> Rosie

From mweisner at ebsmed.com  Fri Apr 25 16:16:00 2025
From: mweisner at ebsmed.com (Michael D. Weisner)
Date: Fri, 25 Apr 2025 16:16:00 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Tips on removing motor lift?
In-Reply-To: <CACzBh2nAXh=abc-TXiFDjO_hvAexPTGsjtqeLZRws59hdJqn2Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CACzBh2nAXh=abc-TXiFDjO_hvAexPTGsjtqeLZRws59hdJqn2Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <002001dbb61e$dd953960$98bfac20$@ebsmed.com>

Rosie,

Are you willing to sell the electric winch "package"? I am interested in it.

Mike
s/v Wind Lass ('91)
Nissequogue River, NY
I?d rather be sailing :~)

-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of Rosie Krueger
Sent: Sunday, April 20, 2025 11:10 AM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Tips on removing motor lift?

Hello all,

We're planning to remove the electric motor lift from our 2007 Rhodes and install a Panther manual adjustable bracket instead. Before we proceed with the project, I am wondering if anyone has any tips about removing the electric lift setup.  I read through the "Converting Electric Winch Motor Lift to a Manual System" thread, but that mostly seems to involve changing the method of power for the existing lift tracks, rather than removing them entirely.

We have a few reasons for switching.  Like others who made the manual conversion, we don't like the vulnerability of relying on the electrical system in a moment when we might really need the motor.  But worse, the top of the existing lift system significantly interferes with the tiller handle on our ePropulsion Spirit electric outboard.  The tiller handle folds up a bit, but not far enough to allow the outboard down as far as it could go, even with the tilt set as far back as possible.  We've also found that the current positioning allows potential for the outboard and rudder to collide. The Panther bracket should push the motor far enough off the back of the boat to resolve that issue.  We did consider getting the epropulsion throttle controller for the outboard, but that was about 2x the cost of the panther bracket and wouldn't have solved the motor/rudder issue.  (We already had the tiller controller from our prior boat - if you're considering buying this outboard for an R22, definitely just go with the throttle controller from the start).  With the light weight of the ePropulsion, we also don't particularly need any of the assistance from either the electric lift or a manual pulley conversion.

Anyway, all of these reasons have us feeling confident in making the switch.  However, I never feel confident messing with holes in the hull. It seems like it should be just a matter of unscrewing the screws on the tracks from inside the lazarette, but I'm not sure if there's any adhesive or other surprises awaiting us after that...So, if you've ever taken the lift tracks off and have any advice about the process, please send them my way!

Also, assuming the process goes successfully, we'll have a used electric motor lift to part with - feel free to reach out if that's of interest to you!

Happy Spring!
Rosie


From johnfarmer87 at gmail.com  Tue Apr 29 17:33:33 2025
From: johnfarmer87 at gmail.com (John Farmer)
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2025 17:33:33 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Where to source parts for a project R22?
Message-ID: <CAE70t6_mNQN49ifHW+Hae5T0YQ2Px1dOWoz_1s7=Ro6etXMWcQ@mail.gmail.com>

Hello,

I found an R22 for sale that has been sitting in a saltwater slip in New
York, unmaintained, for at least 8 years, although pictures show a clean
interior and brand new sails in the bag. The seller says he will pay for a
new bottom paint job. I'm having it inspected before buying, and anticipate
a bunch of stuff will need to be replaced which leads me to my questions:

Is it easy or difficult to source parts? Are there any resources I should
be aware of, both for purchasing parts and also for help troubleshooting
installation issues?

Thanks very much,
John

From cindyspitzer at gmail.com  Tue Apr 29 18:05:40 2025
From: cindyspitzer at gmail.com (Cindy Spitzer)
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2025 18:05:40 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Where to source parts for a project R22?
In-Reply-To: <CAE70t6_mNQN49ifHW+Hae5T0YQ2Px1dOWoz_1s7=Ro6etXMWcQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAE70t6_mNQN49ifHW+Hae5T0YQ2Px1dOWoz_1s7=Ro6etXMWcQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CABbc6O6nAZBB-_EkdzG7xaBvoxk19wt4bH8+13SE7fPnMJZxXQ@mail.gmail.com>

The General Boats Parts Department has a variety of Rhodes 22 items and
replacement parts available, including new and used sails.

You can contact me directly at cindy at cindyspitzer.com or leave me a
voicemail at phone number below, and I'll see if we have what you need.

Congratulations on what sounds like a nice find at the perfect time.

Happy sailing!

Cindy Spitzer
443-980-7367

On Tue, Apr 29, 2025, 5:33?PM John Farmer <johnfarmer87 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Hello,
>
> I found an R22 for sale that has been sitting in a saltwater slip in New
> York, unmaintained, for at least 8 years, although pictures show a clean
> interior and brand new sails in the bag. The seller says he will pay for a
> new bottom paint job. I'm having it inspected before buying, and anticipate
> a bunch of stuff will need to be replaced which leads me to my questions:
>
> Is it easy or difficult to source parts? Are there any resources I should
> be aware of, both for purchasing parts and also for help troubleshooting
> installation issues?
>
> Thanks very much,
> John
>