From ric at stottarchitecture.com  Sat Aug  2 11:43:09 2025
From: ric at stottarchitecture.com (Ric Stott)
Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2025 11:43:09 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Lifting and Jacking the Rhodes
In-Reply-To: <CABvjUT0_BmwbZ7+Jrsf5wpxWMHPxeTCWKYB1+VOP5nOJtrzXVw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABvjUT0_BmwbZ7+Jrsf5wpxWMHPxeTCWKYB1+VOP5nOJtrzXVw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <350DF143-90AB-452C-B076-5E98F1279DEA@stottarchitecture.com>

Kenwood.  Beautiful job on the Companionway door. The Rhodes 22 is a perfect boat for craftsmen to show their talent. It?s the perfect DYI boat built by a brilliant DYI guy -Stan. 
Ric
Dadventure. 
Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 31, 2025, at 5:04?PM, Kenwood _ <kenwood364 at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?Hey all! I took a bunch of notes from these messages. Thanks so much! I'll
> post more about how/when I lift the boat but the pictures were super
> helpful and im really thankful i got such a quick response ty!
> 
> In the meantime heres a new door I made for my boat!
> 
> [image: PXL_20250614_023810944.jpg]
> [image: PXL_20250727_213911571.jpg]
> 
> 
>> On Mon, Jul 21, 2025 at 2:39?PM Ric Stott <ric at stottarchitecture.com> wrote:
>> 
>> This what I love about Rhodies -
>> Always a solution of some creative. Sort or another.
>> Ric
>> 
>> 
>>>> On Jul 21, 2025, at 10:24 AM, John Buhrmann <jbuhrmann at gmail.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> We had a similar collapse and switch to gantry. You can see the adventure
>>> here:
>>> 
>>> https://svcalliope.wordpress.com/2025/03/23/rhodes-22/
>>> 
>>> On Mon, Jul 21, 2025, 9:59?AM Ric Stott <ric at stottarchitecture.com>
>> wrote:
>>> 
>>>> It?s tricky.
>>>> I  have used a number of ways to lift the bow so the trailer can be
>> pulled
>>>> out and replaced.
>>>> This year (would have been the 4th season on the bottom paint) I used a
>>>> friends fork- lift- it worked great.
>>>> In the past I have used a gantry that I built out or 5/4 x 6 & plywood
>>>> with a 4 x 8 pressure treated girder across the top and a 3 ton
>> come-a-long.
>>>> I built the parts, put it together lying on the ground, then pulled it
>> up
>>>> with a line while standing on the bow after staking the bottom to the
>>>> ground so it would not slide.
>>>> If you afraid of heights - this method is not for you.
>>>> I worked this all single handed and it wasn?t tooo difficult, but my
>> aging
>>>> back is making it impossible to do that these days, especially by
>> myself..
>>>> The fork lift was much easier. . .
>>>> When I used the gantry, I left it in place.  My friend had to take his
>> toy
>>>> away so I didn?t have the fork-lift for back up.
>>>> I use the bow ring to lift the bow, but I had recently rebelt the baking
>>>> so I knew it was very strong - always know what is behind the thing you
>> are
>>>> fighting from.
>>>> Anyway, 3 jacks initially, two in the stern and one just forward of the
>>>> keel- so there is nothing in the way of the trailer wheels.
>>>> Then (this is not shown) add one  jack on each side, about midship, for
>>>> stability, for a total of 5 jacks while you are working  on the boat.
>>>> The two amidship can be moved  fore and aft while you are sanding and
>>>> painting.
>>>> The two in the stern and one forward of the keel, are left in place and
>>>> those three spots are sanded and painted once the boat is back on the
>>>> trailer.
>>>> Always, be extra safe and careful. I had the boat fall off the  jacks
>> once
>>>> when I was jacking it with a hydraulic jack and a 4 x 4  without the
>> Gantry
>>>> or Fork lift.
>>>> It scared the shit out of me, so now I?m always super careful and take
>> my
>>>> time for every action when I?m moving the boat.
>>>> Fortunately, I didn?t get hurt and neither did Dadventure.
>>>> Good luck in your adventure.
>>>> Ric
>>>> SV Dadventure
>>>> Hampton Bays, NY
>>>> 
>>>>> On Jul 20, 2025, at 11:42 AM, Kenwood _ <kenwood364 at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>> ?
>>>> 
>>>> ?
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> ?
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>>> Hey all!
>>>>> I'm planning on lifting and jacking my rhodes up on blocks and boat
>>>> jacks.
>>>>> Boatyard style. This is my first time taking a boat as big as the
>> rhodes
>>>>> off its trailer and doing this. We're planning some major trailer
>> service
>>>>> and thats whats bringing this about. Its illegal in my state to moor or
>>>>> anchor overnight and the few places that rent legal moorings are
>>>> extremely
>>>>> sought after, so, jacking is our option.
>>>>> 
>>>>> I can lift the boat off the trailer but for placement on the ground i
>> was
>>>>> thinking to block under the keel and use short boat stands front and
>>>> rear,
>>>>> then much taller stands all around to keep the boat upright. Is this
>> plan
>>>>> correct? Anyone have tips? Would very much love to hear thank you!
>>>> 
>>>> Richard F. Stott, AIA, LEED AP
>>>> ric at stottarchitecture.com
>>>> C- 516-965-3164
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
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>>>>> 
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>>>>> 
>>>> 
>> 
>> Richard F. Stott, AIA, LEED AP
>> ric at stottarchitecture.com
>> C- 516-965-3164
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
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From 62himis at gmail.com  Sat Aug  2 15:19:22 2025
From: 62himis at gmail.com (Larry W)
Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2025 15:19:22 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] What is this? Update.
Message-ID: <CAE=38+ue+jsp4v8M9hNxtsfvYNkR_3C0Z=EQYx6942G7O_n8KA@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks for the replies.

Regarding the wooden pegs.

I have a stainless steel boarding ladder, so they are not for the ladder.

I looked at the cabin table bottom and there are no places to insert these
pegs as a brace.

I think they are something the previous owner left on the boat, but not for
the boat.

Larry Willis
Serenity
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From jpd9668 at gmail.com  Sun Aug  3 09:36:02 2025
From: jpd9668 at gmail.com (jpd9668)
Date: Sun, 03 Aug 2025 09:36:02 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] CDI Jib Furler Fix
Message-ID: <688f65c3.050a0220.2f721f.316c@mx.google.com>

Peter, I had the same issue with my CDI. I contacted CDI and they shipped me the parts needed to get it working again. I was told that the cup should be rinsed out regularly. Opening the cup and cleaning out debris and giving the bearings a good cleaning will improve performance and life of the furler. Prior to the failure, operation of the furler required almost all of my strength. After, it was almost operable with my fi gets. Respite is an 1989 Rhodes and recycled in 2005.? Unfortunately, the GBI refurbished program did not include overhauling the furling systems. I cleaned the IMF bearings with the same results.Joe DempseyFormer Rhodes 22M/V Respite?Deltaville, VASent via the Samsung Galaxy S23 5G, an AT&T 5G smartphone

From jpd9668 at gmail.com  Sun Aug  3 12:00:54 2025
From: jpd9668 at gmail.com (jpd9668)
Date: Sun, 03 Aug 2025 12:00:54 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Electric Outboard Hoist Winch
Message-ID: <688f87b6.0c0a0220.7fc94.3721@mx.google.com>

Steve, Just make sure the bolt pattern is the same. I dont know if there is a standard or not, but crawl into the Nazareth and measure them. May be able to measure on outside of the transom. I dont recall the HP rating, but I seem to think that mine was 3/4 hp and it struggled with my 9.9-4 cycle auxilliary.Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S23 5G, an AT&T 5G smartphone

From jpd9668 at gmail.com  Sun Aug  3 12:09:00 2025
From: jpd9668 at gmail.com (jpd9668)
Date: Sun, 03 Aug 2025 12:09:00 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Motor size
Message-ID: <688f899c.0c0a0220.7fc94.3762@mx.google.com>

Tom. I dont think so??Okay if you're on a lake but not open water. I replaced my Yamaha with a 9.9 Suzuki fuel injected 4 cyc. Long, shaft, high thrust (4 blade prop) . It could push me through a 15-20kt, 2 ft sea.Joe DempseyTrojan 42 MYM/V VoyagerFormer Rhodes 22S/V RespiteDeltaville, VASent via the Samsung Galaxy S23 5G, an AT&T 5G smartphone

From chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com  Sun Aug  3 16:50:59 2025
From: chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com (Chris Geankoplis)
Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2025 15:50:59 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] What is this? Update.
In-Reply-To: <CAE=38+ue+jsp4v8M9hNxtsfvYNkR_3C0Z=EQYx6942G7O_n8KA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAE=38+ue+jsp4v8M9hNxtsfvYNkR_3C0Z=EQYx6942G7O_n8KA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <A3E6471E-10E6-41F1-9655-FAEA5FA0D7E6@gmail.com>

The previous owner was a short drummer. 
Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 2, 2025, at 7:06?PM, Larry W <62himis at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?Thanks for the replies.
> 
> Regarding the wooden pegs.
> 
> I have a stainless steel boarding ladder, so they are not for the ladder.
> 
> I looked at the cabin table bottom and there are no places to insert these
> pegs as a brace.
> 
> I think they are something the previous owner left on the boat, but not for
> the boat.
> 
> Larry Willis
> Serenity
> -------------- next part --------------
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From rodellner at mac.com  Sun Aug  3 22:32:45 2025
From: rodellner at mac.com (Rod Ellner)
Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2025 20:32:45 -0600
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] What is this? Update.
In-Reply-To: <A3E6471E-10E6-41F1-9655-FAEA5FA0D7E6@gmail.com>
References: <A3E6471E-10E6-41F1-9655-FAEA5FA0D7E6@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <DB35171C-9202-436B-8E75-657E0F1E3E00@mac.com>

????
Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 3, 2025, at 2:51?PM, Chris Geankoplis <chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?The previous owner was a short drummer.
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Aug 2, 2025, at 7:06?PM, Larry W <62himis at gmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>> ?Thanks for the replies.
>> 
>> Regarding the wooden pegs.
>> 
>> I have a stainless steel boarding ladder, so they are not for the ladder.
>> 
>> I looked at the cabin table bottom and there are no places to insert these
>> pegs as a brace.
>> 
>> I think they are something the previous owner left on the boat, but not for
>> the boat.
>> 
>> Larry Willis
>> Serenity
>> -------------- next part --------------
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From retiredtoby at gmail.com  Tue Aug  5 07:54:46 2025
From: retiredtoby at gmail.com (Cary Tolbert)
Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2025 07:54:46 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] BOOM FORK
Message-ID: <CAPQvPRoEpZ+XR4NuqtRreuYKTRXkGtzqMGP=DU5ArLP+1jO6yQ@mail.gmail.com>

I know this is a rarely discussed topic on the List but here goes.
 After receiving the parts from General Boats, I pulled the boom fork to
replace this bent part. There is a SLEEVE around the shaft on the fork. I
actually soaked it overnight in penetrating oil. Still zero effect. I have
seen Peter's video which makes no mention of this sleeve. Is it held on by
corrosion or some sort of epoxy?
Another ex Rhodie mentioned heat to expand the sleeve and see if that would
break it loose. Has anyone else experienced this and if so what was your
fix?
I need to take it to my local machinist to drill the two matching holes
from the old fork.
Thanks guys, I know there is  a Rhodie somewhere who has faced this delima.

Cary Tolbert
S/V Whisper '86
Claytor Lake ,VA

From retiredtoby at gmail.com  Tue Aug  5 07:54:50 2025
From: retiredtoby at gmail.com (Cary Tolbert)
Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2025 07:54:50 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Boom Fork
Message-ID: <CAPQvPRqUoXJJgoUfg-hm4WuODEYPZyAh451UHTGpfG69mrv5NQ@mail.gmail.com>


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From peter at sunnybeeches.com  Tue Aug  5 08:14:59 2025
From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg)
Date: Tue, 05 Aug 2025 08:14:59 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] BOOM FORK
Message-ID: <E1ujGZH-00000008RRc-0LYp@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

I'm guessing corrosion.  I can think of no reason the fork shaft would be glued into the sleeve. When I disassembled my gooseneck, the sleeve stayed attached to the boom, and the fork came out without resistance (which is why I never mentioned the sleeve). 

The machinist might be able to supply you with a new sleeve.

--Peter


[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]

> On 2025-08-05, at 07:54:46 EDT, Cary Tolbert wrote:
>
> I know this is a rarely discussed topic on the List but here goes.  After 
> receiving the parts from General Boats, I pulled the boom fork to replace this 
> bent part. There is a SLEEVE around the shaft on the fork. I actually soaked it 
> overnight in penetrating oil. Still zero effect. I have seen Peter's video which 
> makes no mention of this sleeve. Is it held on by corrosion or some sort of 
> epoxy? 
> Another ex Rhodie mentioned heat to expand the sleeve and see if that would 
> break it loose. Has anyone else experienced this and if so what was your fix? 
> I need to take it to my local machinist to drill the two matching holes from the 
> old fork. 
> Thanks guys, I know there is  a Rhodie somewhere who has faced this delima.
> 
> Cary Tolbert
> S/V Whisper '86
> Claytor Lake ,VA
> 



From rlowe at vt.edu  Tue Aug  5 11:36:38 2025
From: rlowe at vt.edu (Lowe, Rob)
Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2025 15:36:38 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] BOOM FORK
In-Reply-To: <CAPQvPRoEpZ+XR4NuqtRreuYKTRXkGtzqMGP=DU5ArLP+1jO6yQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPQvPRoEpZ+XR4NuqtRreuYKTRXkGtzqMGP=DU5ArLP+1jO6yQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <DM6PR05MB6985A15077AB0A356ED1764BC122A@DM6PR05MB6985.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>

Cary,
If you view the piece on end, can you see a center piece and a sleeve?

Rob

Get Outlook for Android<https://aka.ms/AAb9ysg>
________________________________
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of Cary Tolbert <retiredtoby at gmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 5, 2025 7:54:46 AM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] BOOM FORK

I know this is a rarely discussed topic on the List but here goes.
 After receiving the parts from General Boats, I pulled the boom fork to
replace this bent part. There is a SLEEVE around the shaft on the fork. I
actually soaked it overnight in penetrating oil. Still zero effect. I have
seen Peter's video which makes no mention of this sleeve. Is it held on by
corrosion or some sort of epoxy?
Another ex Rhodie mentioned heat to expand the sleeve and see if that would
break it loose. Has anyone else experienced this and if so what was your
fix?
I need to take it to my local machinist to drill the two matching holes
from the old fork.
Thanks guys, I know there is  a Rhodie somewhere who has faced this delima.

Cary Tolbert
S/V Whisper '86
Claytor Lake ,VA

From mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com  Tue Aug  5 12:35:00 2025
From: mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com (mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com)
Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2025 12:35:00 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] BOOM FORK
In-Reply-To: <E1ujGZH-00000008RRc-0LYp@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
References: <E1ujGZH-00000008RRc-0LYp@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
Message-ID: <c84401dc0626$e34c13d0$a9e43b70$@gmail.com>

Cary,

I replaced my gooseneck last year after it failed.  I strongly recommend upgrading the parts to the "heavy duty" versions available from Dwyer.  There is a sleeve inside the boom that is permanently attached--I assume it is welded in place.  Here is what I wrote to this list last year about that project:


I rebuilt my gooseneck recently using Peter's excellent video for guidance, and got the following parts from Dyer:

Qty	Part No	Description
2	DH3143	U Bracket, Heavy
1	DH334		Universal, Gooseneck, 3/4", L
2	CR1		Ring, Rigging, 3/4" x .048"
2	CLP-4-0.984	Pin, Clevis, 1/4 x 1-1/8"

I got the required stainless steel bolts from Ace:

1			2-1/2" x 3/8" hex bolt with 1" thread (no nut is required. I bought 1 extra for a spare)
1			1-1/2" x 5/16" button head bolt with 5/16" nylon lock nut

I didn't have the tools needed to accurately drill a 3/16" hole in the 2-1/2" hex bolt, so I had a local machinist do it for me.  If you currently have two through bolts holding the old gooseneck fork, you will actually only need one of them to secure the 2-1/2" bolt, which makes the process a bit easier.  (My boom only had one retaining bolt.)

Good luck with your project!


Mike McKay
s/v Liber (2006/2018)
Allatoona Lake
Acworth, GA

-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of Peter Nyberg
Sent: Tuesday, August 5, 2025 8:15 AM
To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] BOOM FORK

I'm guessing corrosion.  I can think of no reason the fork shaft would be glued into the sleeve. When I disassembled my gooseneck, the sleeve stayed attached to the boom, and the fork came out without resistance (which is why I never mentioned the sleeve). 

The machinist might be able to supply you with a new sleeve.

--Peter


[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]

> On 2025-08-05, at 07:54:46 EDT, Cary Tolbert wrote:
>
> I know this is a rarely discussed topic on the List but here goes.  After 
> receiving the parts from General Boats, I pulled the boom fork to replace this 
> bent part. There is a SLEEVE around the shaft on the fork. I actually soaked it 
> overnight in penetrating oil. Still zero effect. I have seen Peter's video which 
> makes no mention of this sleeve. Is it held on by corrosion or some sort of 
> epoxy? 
> Another ex Rhodie mentioned heat to expand the sleeve and see if that would 
> break it loose. Has anyone else experienced this and if so what was your fix? 
> I need to take it to my local machinist to drill the two matching holes from the 
> old fork. 
> Thanks guys, I know there is  a Rhodie somewhere who has faced this delima.
> 
> Cary Tolbert
> S/V Whisper '86
> Claytor Lake ,VA
> 




From retiredtoby at gmail.com  Wed Aug  6 18:37:02 2025
From: retiredtoby at gmail.com (Cary Tolbert)
Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2025 18:37:02 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] BOOM FORK
In-Reply-To: <c84401dc0626$e34c13d0$a9e43b70$@gmail.com>
References: <E1ujGZH-00000008RRc-0LYp@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
 <c84401dc0626$e34c13d0$a9e43b70$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAPQvPRqegNLHPAAoiTzQEOqXeZuYg0ENb3QHrjzCHwTaxmaU4Q@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks Mike. I took both the old and new fork to the local machine shop.
The owner acknowledged that 316 SS is a difficult metal to machine.
They said ,the sleeve should not be a problem. They also mentioned that the
2 holes drilled through the fork were off center. It is going to take about
two weeks so I shall see how it goes. Someone told me that Stan out sourced
the booms with the universal joint attached.
I am going to keep your parts list. I may need to use it in the future. So
thanks again Mike. This seems to be more of a common problem than I
realized with the Rhodes 22.
Just for The List info ,I did try the heating with my plumbing torch to see
if it might break the grip of the sleeve.  It was a no go , so I took it to
the pros at the machine shop.

Cary Tolbert


On Wed, Aug 6, 2025 at 5:51?PM <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Cary,
>
> I replaced my gooseneck last year after it failed.  I strongly recommend
> upgrading the parts to the "heavy duty" versions available from Dwyer.
> There is a sleeve inside the boom that is permanently attached--I assume it
> is welded in place.  Here is what I wrote to this list last year about that
> project:
>
>
> I rebuilt my gooseneck recently using Peter's excellent video for
> guidance, and got the following parts from Dyer:
>
> Qty     Part No Description
> 2       DH3143  U Bracket, Heavy
> 1       DH334           Universal, Gooseneck, 3/4", L
> 2       CR1             Ring, Rigging, 3/4" x .048"
> 2       CLP-4-0.984     Pin, Clevis, 1/4 x 1-1/8"
>
> I got the required stainless steel bolts from Ace:
>
> 1                       2-1/2" x 3/8" hex bolt with 1" thread (no nut is
> required. I bought 1 extra for a spare)
> 1                       1-1/2" x 5/16" button head bolt with 5/16" nylon
> lock nut
>
> I didn't have the tools needed to accurately drill a 3/16" hole in the
> 2-1/2" hex bolt, so I had a local machinist do it for me.  If you currently
> have two through bolts holding the old gooseneck fork, you will actually
> only need one of them to secure the 2-1/2" bolt, which makes the process a
> bit easier.  (My boom only had one retaining bolt.)
>
> Good luck with your project!
>
>
> Mike McKay
> s/v Liber (2006/2018)
> Allatoona Lake
> Acworth, GA
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of
> Peter Nyberg
> Sent: Tuesday, August 5, 2025 8:15 AM
> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] BOOM FORK
>
> I'm guessing corrosion.  I can think of no reason the fork shaft would be
> glued into the sleeve. When I disassembled my gooseneck, the sleeve stayed
> attached to the boom, and the fork came out without resistance (which is
> why I never mentioned the sleeve).
>
> The machinist might be able to supply you with a new sleeve.
>
> --Peter
>
>
> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
>
> > On 2025-08-05, at 07:54:46 EDT, Cary Tolbert wrote:
> >
> > I know this is a rarely discussed topic on the List but here goes.
> After
> > receiving the parts from General Boats, I pulled the boom fork to
> replace this
> > bent part. There is a SLEEVE around the shaft on the fork. I actually
> soaked it
> > overnight in penetrating oil. Still zero effect. I have seen Peter's
> video which
> > makes no mention of this sleeve. Is it held on by corrosion or some sort
> of
> > epoxy?
> > Another ex Rhodie mentioned heat to expand the sleeve and see if that
> would
> > break it loose. Has anyone else experienced this and if so what was your
> fix?
> > I need to take it to my local machinist to drill the two matching holes
> from the
> > old fork.
> > Thanks guys, I know there is  a Rhodie somewhere who has faced this
> delima.
> >
> > Cary Tolbert
> > S/V Whisper '86
> > Claytor Lake ,VA
> >
>
>
>
>

From plrhodes29 at gmail.com  Wed Aug  6 23:44:17 2025
From: plrhodes29 at gmail.com (Paul Rhodes)
Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2025 23:44:17 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Shortening Sail
Message-ID: <82A926CE-23A0-4B7C-832D-67228B8BA5F6@gmail.com>

Hello All,

I?ve finally gotten our new-to-us 1990 Rhodes 22 out on the water, and it was a blast!  Two separate days on Lake Murray near Columbia SC, both with forecasted winds of 8-10, yet very different actual strengths.  First day out, my elder son and I discovered that ?New Mercies? moves very well in light to moderate air.  Second day out, a friend of his and I discovered that her full rig is way too much for whatever we had, which I would guess at 12-15 mph, if the first day?s 8-10 was accurate.  However, the flared gunwale held firm and we flew!  Our rails are well washed.

Given that our two sailboats for the last 4 decades were a heavy wooden 22ft gaff fractional sloop and a 40 ft yawl of a more classic Phil Rhodes design, I found the Rhodes 22 to be much more responsive both to me and the weather, for better and for worse.  She?ll make me a better sailor too.  And I have some questions:

First, I?m curious to know if the sail numbers relate to the order of construction, as they do in many classes.  ?New Mercies? wears #444, and we don?t have any evidence of a different number or previous name.

More importantly, when the Commodore comes aboard for a cruise, I?m pretty confident that she will prefer a more level boat.  For those of you like us still using a non-furling main, how do you shorten sail?  As we needed to on our second day, we simply rolled in the jib a bit.  It worked, but was pretty sloppy. Any thoughts on keeping the jib shaped when it?s partially furled?  Our jib furler is very simple: just the sail track with a disk on the bottom that for the most part keeps the furling line off the deck.  Not sure whether this is what other boats have, but so far it works.

As for the main, there is a second grommet that could serve as the tack for a first reef, but no reef points.  However, the fittings on the boom are only at the ends.  It seems like I could reef to any amount (at least up to the first batten) by simply taking the boom out of the mast track and rolling it to take on the sail.  I like the concept - similar to what was on our yawl.  Yet with the boom detached unlike on the yawl, I could see that this might become a very lively operation if we didn?t reef early enough.  Does anyone have experience or thoughts about this?

Finally, we?re in the market for a Boom Room, Bimini, and boat cover.  I?ve left a few messages and sent a few emails about them with no replies.  It seems likely that we?ll need to have them made.  Does anyone have plans or patterns we could use?

Thanks so much.

Glad to be part of the Rhodie band,
Paul and Nancy Rhodes
S/V New Mercies 
Chapin, SC and Savannah, GA

Sent from my iPhone

From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Thu Aug  7 02:32:40 2025
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2025 06:32:40 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Shortening Sail
In-Reply-To: <82A926CE-23A0-4B7C-832D-67228B8BA5F6@gmail.com>
References: <82A926CE-23A0-4B7C-832D-67228B8BA5F6@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BY5PR10MB3825F1C473FCCA84137FE3C8802CA@BY5PR10MB3825.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Hi Paul,

Welcome aboard!  I too am a member of the Rhodes 22 standard mainsail crowd.  We are a tiny minority, the majority favoring the IMF mainsail.  As far as I can tell, the numbers on the sails don't correspond with the hull ID numbers.  For example, my Rhodes 22 has hull ID number: GBX220046D76.  GBX22 refers to the manufacturer and model.  0046 is the sequential hull number.  D76 means my hull was built in the 4th month (A, B, C, D = April), 1976.  The hull ID number should be stamped into the starboard corner of the transom, just above the rub rail.  Your boat's title should also have the hull ID number on it.

The boat sails best if the rub rails are kept out of the water.  It's like a big planning dingy in that respect.  The boat develops weather helm as it heels.  To counter this, it's best to reef the mainsail 1st to keep the center of pressure as far forward as possible.  I'm surprised to hear a boat as new as 1990 didn't come with any provision for reefing the mainsail.  The boom is not set up for roller reefing.  You should consider adding 2 jiffy reef points + the associated hardware.  On my boat, each reef point shortens sail by about 1/3 the mainsail area.  If your estimate of 12-15 mph is correct; then, yes, that is about the point where you need the 1st reef in the mainsail.

You will probably be better off having a local canvas shop make your bimini top, pop top enclosure, and boom room.  All of these things really need to be custom fitted to an individual boat.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
1976  Sanford, MI
________________________________
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of Paul Rhodes <plrhodes29 at gmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 6, 2025 11:44 PM
To: The Rhodes Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Shortening Sail

Hello All,

I?ve finally gotten our new-to-us 1990 Rhodes 22 out on the water, and it was a blast!  Two separate days on Lake Murray near Columbia SC, both with forecasted winds of 8-10, yet very different actual strengths.  First day out, my elder son and I discovered that ?New Mercies? moves very well in light to moderate air.  Second day out, a friend of his and I discovered that her full rig is way too much for whatever we had, which I would guess at 12-15 mph, if the first day?s 8-10 was accurate.  However, the flared gunwale held firm and we flew!  Our rails are well washed.

Given that our two sailboats for the last 4 decades were a heavy wooden 22ft gaff fractional sloop and a 40 ft yawl of a more classic Phil Rhodes design, I found the Rhodes 22 to be much more responsive both to me and the weather, for better and for worse.  She?ll make me a better sailor too.  And I have some questions:

First, I?m curious to know if the sail numbers relate to the order of construction, as they do in many classes.  ?New Mercies? wears #444, and we don?t have any evidence of a different number or previous name.

More importantly, when the Commodore comes aboard for a cruise, I?m pretty confident that she will prefer a more level boat.  For those of you like us still using a non-furling main, how do you shorten sail?  As we needed to on our second day, we simply rolled in the jib a bit.  It worked, but was pretty sloppy. Any thoughts on keeping the jib shaped when it?s partially furled?  Our jib furler is very simple: just the sail track with a disk on the bottom that for the most part keeps the furling line off the deck.  Not sure whether this is what other boats have, but so far it works.

As for the main, there is a second grommet that could serve as the tack for a first reef, but no reef points.  However, the fittings on the boom are only at the ends.  It seems like I could reef to any amount (at least up to the first batten) by simply taking the boom out of the mast track and rolling it to take on the sail.  I like the concept - similar to what was on our yawl.  Yet with the boom detached unlike on the yawl, I could see that this might become a very lively operation if we didn?t reef early enough.  Does anyone have experience or thoughts about this?

Finally, we?re in the market for a Boom Room, Bimini, and boat cover.  I?ve left a few messages and sent a few emails about them with no replies.  It seems likely that we?ll need to have them made.  Does anyone have plans or patterns we could use?

Thanks so much.

Glad to be part of the Rhodie band,
Paul and Nancy Rhodes
S/V New Mercies
Chapin, SC and Savannah, GA

Sent from my iPhone

From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Thu Aug  7 03:00:13 2025
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2025 07:00:13 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Shortening Sail
In-Reply-To: <82A926CE-23A0-4B7C-832D-67228B8BA5F6@gmail.com>
References: <82A926CE-23A0-4B7C-832D-67228B8BA5F6@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BY5PR10MB382528F461E6ECC3E47F9547802CA@BY5PR10MB3825.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Hi Paul,

Enclosed are 3 photos of my boat.  The 1st shows the mainsail laid out on the ground.  As you can see, I have 3 jiffy reef points.  To use reef points 2 & 3, I have to remove the lower batten.


[cid:c51d757e-0988-4112-95f0-2deaf1e2c252]

The second picture shows my boat on a light air spinnaker reach.  As you can see, I fly my triradial spinnaker with a spinnaker furling sock.  You can see it in the photo all bunched up on top of the sail.  There is also a spinnaker pole vang.  But, on this light air day, it wasn't necessary to keep the spinnaker pole level.  As you can see from the nearly calm water, we are still moving in almost no wind.

[cid:e2b8eaa0-d8d4-43de-817c-ed360ebda0a3]
The 3rd picture shows some of the details of my foredeck.  My boat is rigged to fly a triradial spinnaker as well as a cruising spinnaker.  As you can see, I have a bimini top as well.

[cid:2f9b051a-685d-4d1d-9127-35332d9ace5f]

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
1976  Sanford, MI
________________________________
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of Paul Rhodes <plrhodes29 at gmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 6, 2025 11:44 PM
To: The Rhodes Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Shortening Sail

Hello All,

I?ve finally gotten our new-to-us 1990 Rhodes 22 out on the water, and it was a blast!  Two separate days on Lake Murray near Columbia SC, both with forecasted winds of 8-10, yet very different actual strengths.  First day out, my elder son and I discovered that ?New Mercies? moves very well in light to moderate air.  Second day out, a friend of his and I discovered that her full rig is way too much for whatever we had, which I would guess at 12-15 mph, if the first day?s 8-10 was accurate.  However, the flared gunwale held firm and we flew!  Our rails are well washed.

Given that our two sailboats for the last 4 decades were a heavy wooden 22ft gaff fractional sloop and a 40 ft yawl of a more classic Phil Rhodes design, I found the Rhodes 22 to be much more responsive both to me and the weather, for better and for worse.  She?ll make me a better sailor too.  And I have some questions:

First, I?m curious to know if the sail numbers relate to the order of construction, as they do in many classes.  ?New Mercies? wears #444, and we don?t have any evidence of a different number or previous name.

More importantly, when the Commodore comes aboard for a cruise, I?m pretty confident that she will prefer a more level boat.  For those of you like us still using a non-furling main, how do you shorten sail?  As we needed to on our second day, we simply rolled in the jib a bit.  It worked, but was pretty sloppy. Any thoughts on keeping the jib shaped when it?s partially furled?  Our jib furler is very simple: just the sail track with a disk on the bottom that for the most part keeps the furling line off the deck.  Not sure whether this is what other boats have, but so far it works.

As for the main, there is a second grommet that could serve as the tack for a first reef, but no reef points.  However, the fittings on the boom are only at the ends.  It seems like I could reef to any amount (at least up to the first batten) by simply taking the boom out of the mast track and rolling it to take on the sail.  I like the concept - similar to what was on our yawl.  Yet with the boom detached unlike on the yawl, I could see that this might become a very lively operation if we didn?t reef early enough.  Does anyone have experience or thoughts about this?

Finally, we?re in the market for a Boom Room, Bimini, and boat cover.  I?ve left a few messages and sent a few emails about them with no replies.  It seems likely that we?ll need to have them made.  Does anyone have plans or patterns we could use?

Thanks so much.

Glad to be part of the Rhodie band,
Paul and Nancy Rhodes
S/V New Mercies
Chapin, SC and Savannah, GA

Sent from my iPhone
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From tavares0947 at gmail.com  Thu Aug  7 09:13:11 2025
From: tavares0947 at gmail.com (Todd Tavares)
Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2025 09:13:11 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Shortening Sail
In-Reply-To: <BY5PR10MB382528F461E6ECC3E47F9547802CA@BY5PR10MB3825.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <82A926CE-23A0-4B7C-832D-67228B8BA5F6@gmail.com>
 <BY5PR10MB382528F461E6ECC3E47F9547802CA@BY5PR10MB3825.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAB-twMNA8e_tsZYoZVoaHzBJ-p5iJUUBYypHB4MzdLCekeXnnA@mail.gmail.com>

Roger,

I also have a standard mainsail. None of my mains have reef points (I have
3). One is a brand new- never used sail without reef points.

This may be a stupid, not thought out question, but:
If I took or sent the new main to a sail loft to get 2 reef points added,
would they know where they will need to be? ...meaning is  distance from
the foot up to each of the reef points a mathematical function of sail
shape, luff or foot length or total sail area etc?? Or is it just
preference?

I also noticed from your pictures that the reef points are not parallel to
the boom. I'd assume this is to keep the leech tight since you are above
any leech line adjustability...but I also remember you saying you purposely
had your mainsail made extra roachy. Any input or expert suggestions, (or
actual measurements) would be greatly appreciated.

Todd T.

On Thu, Aug 7, 2025, 3:00?AM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:

> Hi Paul,
>
> Enclosed are 3 photos of my boat.  The 1st shows the mainsail laid out on
> the ground.  As you can see, I have 3 jiffy reef points.  To use reef
> points 2 & 3, I have to remove the lower batten.
>
>
> [cid:c51d757e-0988-4112-95f0-2deaf1e2c252]
>
> The second picture shows my boat on a light air spinnaker reach.  As you
> can see, I fly my triradial spinnaker with a spinnaker furling sock.  You
> can see it in the photo all bunched up on top of the sail.  There is also a
> spinnaker pole vang.  But, on this light air day, it wasn't necessary to
> keep the spinnaker pole level.  As you can see from the nearly calm water,
> we are still moving in almost no wind.
>
> [cid:e2b8eaa0-d8d4-43de-817c-ed360ebda0a3]
> The 3rd picture shows some of the details of my foredeck.  My boat is
> rigged to fly a triradial spinnaker as well as a cruising spinnaker.  As
> you can see, I have a bimini top as well.
>
> [cid:2f9b051a-685d-4d1d-9127-35332d9ace5f]
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> 1976  Sanford, MI
> ________________________________
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> Paul Rhodes <plrhodes29 at gmail.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, August 6, 2025 11:44 PM
> To: The Rhodes Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Shortening Sail
>
> Hello All,
>
> I?ve finally gotten our new-to-us 1990 Rhodes 22 out on the water, and it
> was a blast!  Two separate days on Lake Murray near Columbia SC, both with
> forecasted winds of 8-10, yet very different actual strengths.  First day
> out, my elder son and I discovered that ?New Mercies? moves very well in
> light to moderate air.  Second day out, a friend of his and I discovered
> that her full rig is way too much for whatever we had, which I would guess
> at 12-15 mph, if the first day?s 8-10 was accurate.  However, the flared
> gunwale held firm and we flew!  Our rails are well washed.
>
> Given that our two sailboats for the last 4 decades were a heavy wooden
> 22ft gaff fractional sloop and a 40 ft yawl of a more classic Phil Rhodes
> design, I found the Rhodes 22 to be much more responsive both to me and the
> weather, for better and for worse.  She?ll make me a better sailor too.
> And I have some questions:
>
> First, I?m curious to know if the sail numbers relate to the order of
> construction, as they do in many classes.  ?New Mercies? wears #444, and we
> don?t have any evidence of a different number or previous name.
>
> More importantly, when the Commodore comes aboard for a cruise, I?m pretty
> confident that she will prefer a more level boat.  For those of you like us
> still using a non-furling main, how do you shorten sail?  As we needed to
> on our second day, we simply rolled in the jib a bit.  It worked, but was
> pretty sloppy. Any thoughts on keeping the jib shaped when it?s partially
> furled?  Our jib furler is very simple: just the sail track with a disk on
> the bottom that for the most part keeps the furling line off the deck.  Not
> sure whether this is what other boats have, but so far it works.
>
> As for the main, there is a second grommet that could serve as the tack
> for a first reef, but no reef points.  However, the fittings on the boom
> are only at the ends.  It seems like I could reef to any amount (at least
> up to the first batten) by simply taking the boom out of the mast track and
> rolling it to take on the sail.  I like the concept - similar to what was
> on our yawl.  Yet with the boom detached unlike on the yawl, I could see
> that this might become a very lively operation if we didn?t reef early
> enough.  Does anyone have experience or thoughts about this?
>
> Finally, we?re in the market for a Boom Room, Bimini, and boat cover.
> I?ve left a few messages and sent a few emails about them with no replies.
> It seems likely that we?ll need to have them made.  Does anyone have plans
> or patterns we could use?
>
> Thanks so much.
>
> Glad to be part of the Rhodie band,
> Paul and Nancy Rhodes
> S/V New Mercies
> Chapin, SC and Savannah, GA
>
> Sent from my iPhone
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> >
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>

From ric at stottarchitecture.com  Thu Aug  7 09:26:27 2025
From: ric at stottarchitecture.com (Ric Stott)
Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2025 09:26:27 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Shortening Sail
In-Reply-To: <CAB-twMNA8e_tsZYoZVoaHzBJ-p5iJUUBYypHB4MzdLCekeXnnA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <82A926CE-23A0-4B7C-832D-67228B8BA5F6@gmail.com>
 <BY5PR10MB382528F461E6ECC3E47F9547802CA@BY5PR10MB3825.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAB-twMNA8e_tsZYoZVoaHzBJ-p5iJUUBYypHB4MzdLCekeXnnA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CF586720-60CF-48DB-BC5B-A4F0A051C327@stottarchitecture.com>

I have only two reef points on my continental mainsail. The first is bout 18? above the foot, the 2nd about 2 feet higher. 
I have used them both. It is sort of a Jiffy reef system, but ?jiffy? is up for definition in this case. 
BTW - I have a spare Continual mast. If anyone wants/needs it, it will be free to pic up. 
BTW-2 I found a guy that will sand blast and reinforce my trailer to last  for awhile, so my search for a new one has concluded. 
Ric 
Dadventure 


> On Aug 7, 2025, at 9:13 AM, Todd Tavares <tavares0947 at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Roger,
> 
> I also have a standard mainsail. None of my mains have reef points (I have
> 3). One is a brand new- never used sail without reef points.
> 
> This may be a stupid, not thought out question, but:
> If I took or sent the new main to a sail loft to get 2 reef points added,
> would they know where they will need to be? ...meaning is  distance from
> the foot up to each of the reef points a mathematical function of sail
> shape, luff or foot length or total sail area etc?? Or is it just
> preference?
> 
> I also noticed from your pictures that the reef points are not parallel to
> the boom. I'd assume this is to keep the leech tight since you are above
> any leech line adjustability...but I also remember you saying you purposely
> had your mainsail made extra roachy. Any input or expert suggestions, (or
> actual measurements) would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> Todd T.
> 
> On Thu, Aug 7, 2025, 3:00?AM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
> 
>> Hi Paul,
>> 
>> Enclosed are 3 photos of my boat.  The 1st shows the mainsail laid out on
>> the ground.  As you can see, I have 3 jiffy reef points.  To use reef
>> points 2 & 3, I have to remove the lower batten.
>> 
>> 
>> [cid:c51d757e-0988-4112-95f0-2deaf1e2c252]
>> 
>> The second picture shows my boat on a light air spinnaker reach.  As you
>> can see, I fly my triradial spinnaker with a spinnaker furling sock.  You
>> can see it in the photo all bunched up on top of the sail.  There is also a
>> spinnaker pole vang.  But, on this light air day, it wasn't necessary to
>> keep the spinnaker pole level.  As you can see from the nearly calm water,
>> we are still moving in almost no wind.
>> 
>> [cid:e2b8eaa0-d8d4-43de-817c-ed360ebda0a3]
>> The 3rd picture shows some of the details of my foredeck.  My boat is
>> rigged to fly a triradial spinnaker as well as a cruising spinnaker.  As
>> you can see, I have a bimini top as well.
>> 
>> [cid:2f9b051a-685d-4d1d-9127-35332d9ace5f]
>> 
>> Roger Pihlaja
>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>> 1976  Sanford, MI
>> ________________________________
>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
>> Paul Rhodes <plrhodes29 at gmail.com>
>> Sent: Wednesday, August 6, 2025 11:44 PM
>> To: The Rhodes Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Shortening Sail
>> 
>> Hello All,
>> 
>> I?ve finally gotten our new-to-us 1990 Rhodes 22 out on the water, and it
>> was a blast!  Two separate days on Lake Murray near Columbia SC, both with
>> forecasted winds of 8-10, yet very different actual strengths.  First day
>> out, my elder son and I discovered that ?New Mercies? moves very well in
>> light to moderate air.  Second day out, a friend of his and I discovered
>> that her full rig is way too much for whatever we had, which I would guess
>> at 12-15 mph, if the first day?s 8-10 was accurate.  However, the flared
>> gunwale held firm and we flew!  Our rails are well washed.
>> 
>> Given that our two sailboats for the last 4 decades were a heavy wooden
>> 22ft gaff fractional sloop and a 40 ft yawl of a more classic Phil Rhodes
>> design, I found the Rhodes 22 to be much more responsive both to me and the
>> weather, for better and for worse.  She?ll make me a better sailor too.
>> And I have some questions:
>> 
>> First, I?m curious to know if the sail numbers relate to the order of
>> construction, as they do in many classes.  ?New Mercies? wears #444, and we
>> don?t have any evidence of a different number or previous name.
>> 
>> More importantly, when the Commodore comes aboard for a cruise, I?m pretty
>> confident that she will prefer a more level boat.  For those of you like us
>> still using a non-furling main, how do you shorten sail?  As we needed to
>> on our second day, we simply rolled in the jib a bit.  It worked, but was
>> pretty sloppy. Any thoughts on keeping the jib shaped when it?s partially
>> furled?  Our jib furler is very simple: just the sail track with a disk on
>> the bottom that for the most part keeps the furling line off the deck.  Not
>> sure whether this is what other boats have, but so far it works.
>> 
>> As for the main, there is a second grommet that could serve as the tack
>> for a first reef, but no reef points.  However, the fittings on the boom
>> are only at the ends.  It seems like I could reef to any amount (at least
>> up to the first batten) by simply taking the boom out of the mast track and
>> rolling it to take on the sail.  I like the concept - similar to what was
>> on our yawl.  Yet with the boom detached unlike on the yawl, I could see
>> that this might become a very lively operation if we didn?t reef early
>> enough.  Does anyone have experience or thoughts about this?
>> 
>> Finally, we?re in the market for a Boom Room, Bimini, and boat cover.
>> I?ve left a few messages and sent a few emails about them with no replies.
>> It seems likely that we?ll need to have them made.  Does anyone have plans
>> or patterns we could use?
>> 
>> Thanks so much.
>> 
>> Glad to be part of the Rhodie band,
>> Paul and Nancy Rhodes
>> S/V New Mercies
>> Chapin, SC and Savannah, GA
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> -------------- next part --------------
>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
>> Name: Full Batten Mainsail.JPG
>> Type: image/jpeg
>> Size: 2099647 bytes
>> Desc: Full Batten Mainsail.JPG
>> URL: <
>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20250807/2f025456/attachment.jpe
>>> 
>> -------------- next part --------------
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>> Desc: Rhodes 22 Triradial Spinnaker.jpg
>> URL: <
>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20250807/2f025456/attachment.jpg
>>> 
>> -------------- next part --------------
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>> URL: <
>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20250807/2f025456/attachment-0001.jpg
>>> 
>> 

Richard F. Stott, AIA, LEED AP 
ric at stottarchitecture.com
C- 516-965-3164




From ric at stottarchitecture.com  Thu Aug  7 10:14:37 2025
From: ric at stottarchitecture.com (Ric Stott)
Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2025 10:14:37 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Shortening Sail
In-Reply-To: <82A926CE-23A0-4B7C-832D-67228B8BA5F6@gmail.com>
References: <82A926CE-23A0-4B7C-832D-67228B8BA5F6@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <959ECE10-0796-4467-BB47-426EA05D3721@stottarchitecture.com>

Welcome Paul and Nancy. 
You are one of the few with a ?Continental mainsail? , I have one also. 
Sailing the rhodes is different that other sloop rigs. . I have the same furler system. I watch it carefully when furling and deploying, but once in awhile, it wil sip off the disc and onto the deck.
I have to go forward and clear it (slip it back onto the furler tube above the disk. It?s not s big deal, but it always happens at the worse time. 
A new CDI Furler is on my upgrade list. 
So is a 130% Jib. The CDI system will allow me to change jibs without dropping the mast. 
 Over 15 Kts, Reefing the main takes a lot of load off and still supports the Jib.
Rolling the jib partially in a blow, always makes the jib look odd and inefficient- you can learn to improve this, and it looks better on port tsk, but it never looks right.  
The 170% Jib is huge and if I?m at any point of sail below a close reach (at least with MY ?commodore? on board), I will only use the jib and leave the main in its cover on the boom. 
MY commodore does not like to go to weather under any circumstances except the iron spinnaker, so when I want to go sailing for real, I leave her ashore. 
My main has two reef points. In both locations, the Jiffy reef clew is lower that a the tie down grommets. I don?t know why, but it seems to work. 
Ric 
SV Dadventure  

> On Aug 6, 2025, at 11:44 PM, Paul Rhodes <plrhodes29 at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Hello All,
> 
> I?ve finally gotten our new-to-us 1990 Rhodes 22 out on the water, and it was a blast!  Two separate days on Lake Murray near Columbia SC, both with forecasted winds of 8-10, yet very different actual strengths.  First day out, my elder son and I discovered that ?New Mercies? moves very well in light to moderate air.  Second day out, a friend of his and I discovered that her full rig is way too much for whatever we had, which I would guess at 12-15 mph, if the first day?s 8-10 was accurate.  However, the flared gunwale held firm and we flew!  Our rails are well washed.
> 
> Given that our two sailboats for the last 4 decades were a heavy wooden 22ft gaff fractional sloop and a 40 ft yawl of a more classic Phil Rhodes design, I found the Rhodes 22 to be much more responsive both to me and the weather, for better and for worse.  She?ll make me a better sailor too.  And I have some questions:
> 
> First, I?m curious to know if the sail numbers relate to the order of construction, as they do in many classes.  ?New Mercies? wears #444, and we don?t have any evidence of a different number or previous name.
> 
> More importantly, when the Commodore comes aboard for a cruise, I?m pretty confident that she will prefer a more level boat.  For those of you like us still using a non-furling main, how do you shorten sail?  As we needed to on our second day, we simply rolled in the jib a bit.  It worked, but was pretty sloppy. Any thoughts on keeping the jib shaped when it?s partially furled?  Our jib furler is very simple: just the sail track with a disk on the bottom that for the most part keeps the furling line off the deck.  Not sure whether this is what other boats have, but so far it works.
> 
> As for the main, there is a second grommet that could serve as the tack for a first reef, but no reef points.  However, the fittings on the boom are only at the ends.  It seems like I could reef to any amount (at least up to the first batten) by simply taking the boom out of the mast track and rolling it to take on the sail.  I like the concept - similar to what was on our yawl.  Yet with the boom detached unlike on the yawl, I could see that this might become a very lively operation if we didn?t reef early enough.  Does anyone have experience or thoughts about this?
> 
> Finally, we?re in the market for a Boom Room, Bimini, and boat cover.  I?ve left a few messages and sent a few emails about them with no replies.  It seems likely that we?ll need to have them made.  Does anyone have plans or patterns we could use?
> 
> Thanks so much.
> 
> Glad to be part of the Rhodie band,
> Paul and Nancy Rhodes
> S/V New Mercies 
> Chapin, SC and Savannah, GA
> 
> Sent from my iPhone

Richard F. Stott, AIA, LEED AP 
ric at stottarchitecture.com
C- 516-965-3164




From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Thu Aug  7 10:43:08 2025
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2025 14:43:08 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Shortening Sail
In-Reply-To: <CF586720-60CF-48DB-BC5B-A4F0A051C327@stottarchitecture.com>
References: <82A926CE-23A0-4B7C-832D-67228B8BA5F6@gmail.com>
 <BY5PR10MB382528F461E6ECC3E47F9547802CA@BY5PR10MB3825.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAB-twMNA8e_tsZYoZVoaHzBJ-p5iJUUBYypHB4MzdLCekeXnnA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CF586720-60CF-48DB-BC5B-A4F0A051C327@stottarchitecture.com>
Message-ID: <BY5PR10MB3825D1A4B992A5E2DD820C1D802CA@BY5PR10MB3825.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Hi Todd,

My OEM standard mainsail had 2 rows of reef points.  The picture shows a fully battened mainsail that I had built for me.

Yes, any sail loft will be able to add as many reef points as you wish.  My 3rd reef was added after I?d had the sail for awhile.  I wanted it for Great Lakes sailing.  For inland lakes, you could probably get away with 2 reefs.  Of course, you would need to add the required hardware on the boom for every reef point you add.  If you have existing reef hardware; then, that determines the location of the reef points on the sail.  You would specify the location of the reefing hardware on the boom to your sailmaker.  If you are adding reef hardware; then, the reef points can be anywhere you want.  I would stay away from batten pockets and don?t put a reef point tack grommet near a sail slide.  My reefs angle up for the sake of luff tension and also to provide a little more head clearance under the boom.  My boom topping lift is rigged to a cam cleat on the clew end of the boom.  If I want to have less leech tension while reefed, I just trim the topping lift.

As far as where to locate the reef points, there are 3 factors in play.  The 1st is sail area.  For this, sail can be treated as a triangle, making the area easy to calculate.  Remember, the wind force goes up as the square of the wind speed.  ie, Doubling the wind speed results in 4X more force and the force is proportional to the sail area.  The second factor is that reefing the sail causes the center of pressure to be lowered, resulting in less heeling moment.  The 3rd factor is the center of pressure also moves forward when the mainsail is reefed.  This results in less weather helm when heeled over.  By reefing the mainsail, you can leave more of the genoa flying, resulting in better sail shape and more boat speed.  Even if you heel over, the helm will remain balanced and you won?t have to use much rudder, resulting in less drag and more boat speed.  It?s also much less tiresome for the helmsman.  The reef point locations in the photo seem to work pretty well.  So, feel free to scale them off the photo.

In the photo, note the curvature in the foot of the sail.  When rigged, this curvature results in a very full ( ie deep draft ) sail shape.  This shape is appropriate for light air.  When the wind speed increases, the sail shape needs to be flattened.  Another reason for the slant in the reef point locations is to remove the deep draft from the belly of the sail.

In the photo, I have a yellow tape measure stretched from the head of the mainsail to the clew.  You can see how much roach the sail has.  Note, this much roach will require a fully battened sail.  Also, this much roach required the static mast tilt to be adjusted such that my mast has almost zero degrees of aft rake angle in order to adjust out the weather helm when the mainsail is fully deployed.  All the extra roach sail area is in the extreme aft part of the mainsail, where it wants to cause weather helm.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
1976. Sanford, MI
Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 7, 2025, at 9:26?AM, Ric Stott <ric at stottarchitecture.com> wrote:
>
> ?I have only two reef points on my continental mainsail. The first is bout 18? above the foot, the 2nd about 2 feet higher.
> I have used them both. It is sort of a Jiffy reef system, but ?jiffy? is up for definition in this case.
> BTW - I have a spare Continual mast. If anyone wants/needs it, it will be free to pic up.
> BTW-2 I found a guy that will sand blast and reinforce my trailer to last  for awhile, so my search for a new one has concluded.
> Ric
> Dadventure
>
>
>> On Aug 7, 2025, at 9:13 AM, Todd Tavares <tavares0947 at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> Roger,
>>
>> I also have a standard mainsail. None of my mains have reef points (I have
>> 3). One is a brand new- never used sail without reef points.
>>
>> This may be a stupid, not thought out question, but:
>> If I took or sent the new main to a sail loft to get 2 reef points added,
>> would they know where they will need to be? ...meaning is  distance from
>> the foot up to each of the reef points a mathematical function of sail
>> shape, luff or foot length or total sail area etc?? Or is it just
>> preference?
>>
>> I also noticed from your pictures that the reef points are not parallel to
>> the boom. I'd assume this is to keep the leech tight since you are above
>> any leech line adjustability...but I also remember you saying you purposely
>> had your mainsail made extra roachy. Any input or expert suggestions, (or
>> actual measurements) would be greatly appreciated.
>>
>> Todd T.
>>
>>> On Thu, Aug 7, 2025, 3:00?AM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> Hi Paul,
>>>
>>> Enclosed are 3 photos of my boat.  The 1st shows the mainsail laid out on
>>> the ground.  As you can see, I have 3 jiffy reef points.  To use reef
>>> points 2 & 3, I have to remove the lower batten.
>>>
>>>
>>> [cid:c51d757e-0988-4112-95f0-2deaf1e2c252]
>>>
>>> The second picture shows my boat on a light air spinnaker reach.  As you
>>> can see, I fly my triradial spinnaker with a spinnaker furling sock.  You
>>> can see it in the photo all bunched up on top of the sail.  There is also a
>>> spinnaker pole vang.  But, on this light air day, it wasn't necessary to
>>> keep the spinnaker pole level.  As you can see from the nearly calm water,
>>> we are still moving in almost no wind.
>>>
>>> [cid:e2b8eaa0-d8d4-43de-817c-ed360ebda0a3]
>>> The 3rd picture shows some of the details of my foredeck.  My boat is
>>> rigged to fly a triradial spinnaker as well as a cruising spinnaker.  As
>>> you can see, I have a bimini top as well.
>>>
>>> [cid:2f9b051a-685d-4d1d-9127-35332d9ace5f]
>>>
>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>> 1976  Sanford, MI
>>> ________________________________
>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
>>> Paul Rhodes <plrhodes29 at gmail.com>
>>> Sent: Wednesday, August 6, 2025 11:44 PM
>>> To: The Rhodes Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>>> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Shortening Sail
>>>
>>> Hello All,
>>>
>>> I?ve finally gotten our new-to-us 1990 Rhodes 22 out on the water, and it
>>> was a blast!  Two separate days on Lake Murray near Columbia SC, both with
>>> forecasted winds of 8-10, yet very different actual strengths.  First day
>>> out, my elder son and I discovered that ?New Mercies? moves very well in
>>> light to moderate air.  Second day out, a friend of his and I discovered
>>> that her full rig is way too much for whatever we had, which I would guess
>>> at 12-15 mph, if the first day?s 8-10 was accurate.  However, the flared
>>> gunwale held firm and we flew!  Our rails are well washed.
>>>
>>> Given that our two sailboats for the last 4 decades were a heavy wooden
>>> 22ft gaff fractional sloop and a 40 ft yawl of a more classic Phil Rhodes
>>> design, I found the Rhodes 22 to be much more responsive both to me and the
>>> weather, for better and for worse.  She?ll make me a better sailor too.
>>> And I have some questions:
>>>
>>> First, I?m curious to know if the sail numbers relate to the order of
>>> construction, as they do in many classes.  ?New Mercies? wears #444, and we
>>> don?t have any evidence of a different number or previous name.
>>>
>>> More importantly, when the Commodore comes aboard for a cruise, I?m pretty
>>> confident that she will prefer a more level boat.  For those of you like us
>>> still using a non-furling main, how do you shorten sail?  As we needed to
>>> on our second day, we simply rolled in the jib a bit.  It worked, but was
>>> pretty sloppy. Any thoughts on keeping the jib shaped when it?s partially
>>> furled?  Our jib furler is very simple: just the sail track with a disk on
>>> the bottom that for the most part keeps the furling line off the deck.  Not
>>> sure whether this is what other boats have, but so far it works.
>>>
>>> As for the main, there is a second grommet that could serve as the tack
>>> for a first reef, but no reef points.  However, the fittings on the boom
>>> are only at the ends.  It seems like I could reef to any amount (at least
>>> up to the first batten) by simply taking the boom out of the mast track and
>>> rolling it to take on the sail.  I like the concept - similar to what was
>>> on our yawl.  Yet with the boom detached unlike on the yawl, I could see
>>> that this might become a very lively operation if we didn?t reef early
>>> enough.  Does anyone have experience or thoughts about this?
>>>
>>> Finally, we?re in the market for a Boom Room, Bimini, and boat cover.
>>> I?ve left a few messages and sent a few emails about them with no replies.
>>> It seems likely that we?ll need to have them made.  Does anyone have plans
>>> or patterns we could use?
>>>
>>> Thanks so much.
>>>
>>> Glad to be part of the Rhodie band,
>>> Paul and Nancy Rhodes
>>> S/V New Mercies
>>> Chapin, SC and Savannah, GA
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> -------------- next part --------------
>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
>>> Name: Full Batten Mainsail.JPG
>>> Type: image/jpeg
>>> Size: 2099647 bytes
>>> Desc: Full Batten Mainsail.JPG
>>> URL: <
>>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20250807/2f025456/attachment.jpe
>>>>
>>> -------------- next part --------------
>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
>>> Name: Rhodes 22 Triradial Spinnaker.jpg
>>> Type: image/jpeg
>>> Size: 144449 bytes
>>> Desc: Rhodes 22 Triradial Spinnaker.jpg
>>> URL: <
>>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20250807/2f025456/attachment.jpg
>>>>
>>> -------------- next part --------------
>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
>>> Name: Foredeck Labeled.jpg
>>> Type: image/jpeg
>>> Size: 222595 bytes
>>> Desc: Foredeck Labeled.jpg
>>> URL: <
>>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20250807/2f025456/attachment-0001.jpg
>>>>
>>>
>
> Richard F. Stott, AIA, LEED AP
> ric at stottarchitecture.com
> C- 516-965-3164
>
>
>

From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Thu Aug  7 18:28:22 2025
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2025 22:28:22 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Shortening Sail
In-Reply-To: <82A926CE-23A0-4B7C-832D-67228B8BA5F6@gmail.com>
References: <82A926CE-23A0-4B7C-832D-67228B8BA5F6@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BY5PR10MB382582CFBE8A316D3191D831802CA@BY5PR10MB3825.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Hi Paul,

I recognized the GBI OEM roller furler was a piece of junk as soon as I used it.  One of the 1st upgrades I made to the boat was a Harken Unit 0 roller furler.  This system has an aerodynamic luff foil with dual slots and independent upper and lower swivels.  The furling spool is enclosed to completely capture the furling control line, thus virtually eliminating control line snarls.  There are Torlon ball, roller, or needle bearings throughout.  The thing spins as friction free as a bicycle wheel!  But, taking full advantage of this advanced roller furler requires a special sail.  I had a 150% genoa built for the boat.  The sail is constructed of Bainbridge CRUISE-LAM (tm) sailcloth.  CRUISE-LAM (tm) sailcloth is a 5 layer composite.  The outer layers are Dacron for UV, chafe, and fatigue resistance.  Under the Dacron layer, there is a Kevlar scrim layer (think coarse window screen), a Mylar film core, another Kevlar scrim layer, and then the other outer Dacron layer.  The construction is Bi-Radial to take advantage of the sailcloth's superior mechanical properties.  To fully utilize the independent upper and lower swivels, the leading edge of the sail has a foam luff pad.  A foam luff pad looks like ? of a long skinny ellipse.  Sewn into the luff of a genoa, a foam luff pad causes the full draft midsection of the sail to be rolled up faster vs the foot and head sections of the sail, assuming the roller furler has independent upper and lower swivels which allow this to occur.  This allows the sail shape to be deep draft for light air and become progressively flatter as the sail is reefed.  This sail pulls like a freight train and keeps a beautiful sail shape until it's reefed down to about 100%.

Don't waste too much time or energy on your GBI furler.  Save your money and get a more modern system ASAP!

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
1976  Sanford, MI
________________________________
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of Paul Rhodes <plrhodes29 at gmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 6, 2025 11:44 PM
To: The Rhodes Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Shortening Sail

Hello All,

I?ve finally gotten our new-to-us 1990 Rhodes 22 out on the water, and it was a blast!  Two separate days on Lake Murray near Columbia SC, both with forecasted winds of 8-10, yet very different actual strengths.  First day out, my elder son and I discovered that ?New Mercies? moves very well in light to moderate air.  Second day out, a friend of his and I discovered that her full rig is way too much for whatever we had, which I would guess at 12-15 mph, if the first day?s 8-10 was accurate.  However, the flared gunwale held firm and we flew!  Our rails are well washed.

Given that our two sailboats for the last 4 decades were a heavy wooden 22ft gaff fractional sloop and a 40 ft yawl of a more classic Phil Rhodes design, I found the Rhodes 22 to be much more responsive both to me and the weather, for better and for worse.  She?ll make me a better sailor too.  And I have some questions:

First, I?m curious to know if the sail numbers relate to the order of construction, as they do in many classes.  ?New Mercies? wears #444, and we don?t have any evidence of a different number or previous name.

More importantly, when the Commodore comes aboard for a cruise, I?m pretty confident that she will prefer a more level boat.  For those of you like us still using a non-furling main, how do you shorten sail?  As we needed to on our second day, we simply rolled in the jib a bit.  It worked, but was pretty sloppy. Any thoughts on keeping the jib shaped when it?s partially furled?  Our jib furler is very simple: just the sail track with a disk on the bottom that for the most part keeps the furling line off the deck.  Not sure whether this is what other boats have, but so far it works.

As for the main, there is a second grommet that could serve as the tack for a first reef, but no reef points.  However, the fittings on the boom are only at the ends.  It seems like I could reef to any amount (at least up to the first batten) by simply taking the boom out of the mast track and rolling it to take on the sail.  I like the concept - similar to what was on our yawl.  Yet with the boom detached unlike on the yawl, I could see that this might become a very lively operation if we didn?t reef early enough.  Does anyone have experience or thoughts about this?

Finally, we?re in the market for a Boom Room, Bimini, and boat cover.  I?ve left a few messages and sent a few emails about them with no replies.  It seems likely that we?ll need to have them made.  Does anyone have plans or patterns we could use?

Thanks so much.

Glad to be part of the Rhodie band,
Paul and Nancy Rhodes
S/V New Mercies
Chapin, SC and Savannah, GA

Sent from my iPhone

From chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com  Thu Aug  7 19:43:19 2025
From: chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com (Chris Geankoplis)
Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2025 18:43:19 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Shortening Sail
In-Reply-To: <BY5PR10MB382582CFBE8A316D3191D831802CA@BY5PR10MB3825.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <BY5PR10MB382582CFBE8A316D3191D831802CA@BY5PR10MB3825.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <D86A4CF3-18C5-476D-B54D-58C87433ACCD@gmail.com>

Thanks Roger, for the testimonial on your sail system.  I?ve used Stan?s original furler tube for 45 years. Simple, bulletproof, inefficient. It might be fun to upgrade. 

Chris Geankoplis 
XENOS 
Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 7, 2025, at 5:37?PM, ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
> 
> ?Hi Paul,
> 
> I recognized the GBI OEM roller furler was a piece of junk as soon as I used it.  One of the 1st upgrades I made to the boat was a Harken Unit 0 roller furler.  This system has an aerodynamic luff foil with dual slots and independent upper and lower swivels.  The furling spool is enclosed to completely capture the furling control line, thus virtually eliminating control line snarls.  There are Torlon ball, roller, or needle bearings throughout.  The thing spins as friction free as a bicycle wheel!  But, taking full advantage of this advanced roller furler requires a special sail.  I had a 150% genoa built for the boat.  The sail is constructed of Bainbridge CRUISE-LAM (tm) sailcloth.  CRUISE-LAM (tm) sailcloth is a 5 layer composite.  The outer layers are Dacron for UV, chafe, and fatigue resistance.  Under the Dacron layer, there is a Kevlar scrim layer (think coarse window screen), a Mylar film core, another Kevlar scrim layer, and then the other outer Dacron layer.  The construction is Bi-Radial to take advantage of the sailcloth's superior mechanical properties.  To fully utilize the independent upper and lower swivels, the leading edge of the sail has a foam luff pad.  A foam luff pad looks like ? of a long skinny ellipse.  Sewn into the luff of a genoa, a foam luff pad causes the full draft midsection of the sail to be rolled up faster vs the foot and head sections of the sail, assuming the roller furler has independent upper and lower swivels which allow this to occur.  This allows the sail shape to be deep draft for light air and become progressively flatter as the sail is reefed.  This sail pulls like a freight train and keeps a beautiful sail shape until it's reefed down to about 100%.
> 
> Don't waste too much time or energy on your GBI furler.  Save your money and get a more modern system ASAP!
> 
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> 1976  Sanford, MI
> ________________________________
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of Paul Rhodes <plrhodes29 at gmail.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, August 6, 2025 11:44 PM
> To: The Rhodes Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Shortening Sail
> 
> Hello All,
> 
> I?ve finally gotten our new-to-us 1990 Rhodes 22 out on the water, and it was a blast!  Two separate days on Lake Murray near Columbia SC, both with forecasted winds of 8-10, yet very different actual strengths.  First day out, my elder son and I discovered that ?New Mercies? moves very well in light to moderate air.  Second day out, a friend of his and I discovered that her full rig is way too much for whatever we had, which I would guess at 12-15 mph, if the first day?s 8-10 was accurate.  However, the flared gunwale held firm and we flew!  Our rails are well washed.
> 
> Given that our two sailboats for the last 4 decades were a heavy wooden 22ft gaff fractional sloop and a 40 ft yawl of a more classic Phil Rhodes design, I found the Rhodes 22 to be much more responsive both to me and the weather, for better and for worse.  She?ll make me a better sailor too.  And I have some questions:
> 
> First, I?m curious to know if the sail numbers relate to the order of construction, as they do in many classes.  ?New Mercies? wears #444, and we don?t have any evidence of a different number or previous name.
> 
> More importantly, when the Commodore comes aboard for a cruise, I?m pretty confident that she will prefer a more level boat.  For those of you like us still using a non-furling main, how do you shorten sail?  As we needed to on our second day, we simply rolled in the jib a bit.  It worked, but was pretty sloppy. Any thoughts on keeping the jib shaped when it?s partially furled?  Our jib furler is very simple: just the sail track with a disk on the bottom that for the most part keeps the furling line off the deck.  Not sure whether this is what other boats have, but so far it works.
> 
> As for the main, there is a second grommet that could serve as the tack for a first reef, but no reef points.  However, the fittings on the boom are only at the ends.  It seems like I could reef to any amount (at least up to the first batten) by simply taking the boom out of the mast track and rolling it to take on the sail.  I like the concept - similar to what was on our yawl.  Yet with the boom detached unlike on the yawl, I could see that this might become a very lively operation if we didn?t reef early enough.  Does anyone have experience or thoughts about this?
> 
> Finally, we?re in the market for a Boom Room, Bimini, and boat cover.  I?ve left a few messages and sent a few emails about them with no replies.  It seems likely that we?ll need to have them made.  Does anyone have plans or patterns we could use?
> 
> Thanks so much.
> 
> Glad to be part of the Rhodie band,
> Paul and Nancy Rhodes
> S/V New Mercies
> Chapin, SC and Savannah, GA
> 
> Sent from my iPhone

From lgioia at yahoo.com  Thu Aug  7 22:09:56 2025
From: lgioia at yahoo.com (Larry Gioia)
Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2025 02:09:56 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Welcome Paul!  And new electric outboard
In-Reply-To: <82A926CE-23A0-4B7C-832D-67228B8BA5F6@gmail.com>
References: <82A926CE-23A0-4B7C-832D-67228B8BA5F6@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <235231170.3237498.1754618996286@mail.yahoo.com>

Hi Paul, welcome! ?And your last name is Rhodes? You were destined for this!
Separately to the group: this is the first 6hp electric I?ve seen of a size that?s kinda?similar?to the ePropulsion?Spirit 1.0+ I have, though is 52 lbs vs 24 lbs?non-battery?for the 1.0+?- pricey at?$2,500 and battery separately priced at $1,700 - way overpriced for 70 amp-hrs.??I?m on lakes so 3hp has been okay - hey one year I used a trolling motor while my Mercury 3.5 was being repaired -?but 6hp is interesting.?
Larry
Newport NT600 6hp Electric Outboard - Tiny Boat Nation?
  
|  
|   
|   
|   |    |

   |

  |
|  
|   |  
Newport NT600 6hp Electric Outboard - Tiny Boat Nation
 
By Tiny Boat Nation
 
Shop the Newport NT600 6HP electric outboard motor ? ultra-quiet, powerful 48V performance for jon boats, inflatables, and skiffs. Perfect with Lithium battery
  |   |

  |

  |

  



Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone




From plrhodes29 at gmail.com  Fri Aug  8 08:58:14 2025
From: plrhodes29 at gmail.com (Paul Rhodes)
Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2025 08:58:14 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Re Shortening Sail
Message-ID: <D0F5D47D-15BA-4020-9EE7-28D81FB92DA7@gmail.com>

Thanks Roger, Ric, Larry, Todd, Chris et al for your welcoming words and informative discussion on shortening sail and keeping Commodores happy!  I?ll enjoy putting your thoughts into practice.

Larry, Stan also thought that with our name, it was meant to be, and I won?t argue.  I?ve been trying to find a familial connection with Phil ever since I heard about him as a kid.  

Paul 

Sent from my iPhone

From borderfolle at yahoo.com  Sun Aug 10 18:28:34 2025
From: borderfolle at yahoo.com (Donald Simons)
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2025 22:28:34 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Re Shortening Sail
In-Reply-To: <D0F5D47D-15BA-4020-9EE7-28D81FB92DA7@gmail.com>
References: <D0F5D47D-15BA-4020-9EE7-28D81FB92DA7@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <542515011.2133783.1754864914742@mail.yahoo.com>

 Hi Paul,
Perhaps I missed this somewhere in the previous messages, but when the wind gets uncomfortable while sailing, you can lower the pop-top and then lower the boom to a lower position.? There should be a hole in the mast where the spring pin by the gooseneck fits into.? This will reduce heeling, but... puts the boom at a position where you can easily hit your head.? Both my '81 and '03 Rhodes had this feature.? This feature lowers the center of force from your mainsail and as a result, reduce heeling.
Don Simons,Old Forge, NY
    On Friday, August 8, 2025 at 08:58:29 AM EDT, Paul Rhodes <plrhodes29 at gmail.com> wrote:  
 
 Thanks Roger, Ric, Larry, Todd, Chris et al for your welcoming words and informative discussion on shortening sail and keeping Commodores happy!? I?ll enjoy putting your thoughts into practice.

Larry, Stan also thought that with our name, it was meant to be, and I won?t argue.? I?ve been trying to find a familial connection with Phil ever since I heard about him as a kid.? 

Paul 

Sent from my iPhone  

From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Mon Aug 11 00:21:45 2025
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2025 04:21:45 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Re Shortening Sail
In-Reply-To: <542515011.2133783.1754864914742@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <D0F5D47D-15BA-4020-9EE7-28D81FB92DA7@gmail.com>
 <542515011.2133783.1754864914742@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BY5PR10MB38257635C61D88CEF86C8EF48028A@BY5PR10MB3825.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Hi Don,

While it?s true that lowering the mainsail from the upper position to the lower position lowers the center of pressure and reduces the heeling, the effect is pretty small.  The effect is equivalent to about 1/3 of the 1st reef.  The other thing that putting the reef in the mainsail does is flatten the sail shape.  The flatter sail shape is more appropriate for the higher wind speed and reduces the heeling all by itself.  Between the reduced sail area and the better high wind sail shape, the reefed sail is a better bet for keeping the Commodore happy.  The reefed mainsail also moves the center of pressure forward, reducing weather helm and the chances of a broach.   If you want to make your Commodore unhappy, try letting the boat broach with her onboard!

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium 
1976. Sanford, MI
Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 10, 2025, at 6:29?PM, Donald Simons via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> 
> ? Hi Paul,
> Perhaps I missed this somewhere in the previous messages, but when the wind gets uncomfortable while sailing, you can lower the pop-top and then lower the boom to a lower position.  There should be a hole in the mast where the spring pin by the gooseneck fits into.  This will reduce heeling, but... puts the boom at a position where you can easily hit your head.  Both my '81 and '03 Rhodes had this feature.  This feature lowers the center of force from your mainsail and as a result, reduce heeling.
> Don Simons,Old Forge, NY
>    On Friday, August 8, 2025 at 08:58:29 AM EDT, Paul Rhodes <plrhodes29 at gmail.com> wrote:  
> 
> Thanks Roger, Ric, Larry, Todd, Chris et al for your welcoming words and informative discussion on shortening sail and keeping Commodores happy!  I?ll enjoy putting your thoughts into practice.
> 
> Larry, Stan also thought that with our name, it was meant to be, and I won?t argue.  I?ve been trying to find a familial connection with Phil ever since I heard about him as a kid. 
> 
> Paul
> 
> Sent from my iPhone  

From plrhodes29 at gmail.com  Mon Aug 11 13:18:32 2025
From: plrhodes29 at gmail.com (Paul Rhodes)
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2025 13:18:32 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Re Shortening Sail
In-Reply-To: <542515011.2133783.1754864914742@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <542515011.2133783.1754864914742@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <691FCCC4-C654-4626-B186-82E3CEBE8F3A@gmail.com>

Hi Don,

That?s a good idea.  We didn?t bother to raise the poptop and enclosure because it was only a day sail and with rain likely.  I?ve read about lowering the boom as ?the first reef?, but didn?t think of it that day, nor had I explored how to move the attachment.  Your description will help!

Paul

Sent from my iPhone

> On 10. Aug 2025, at 18:29, Donald Simons via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> 
> ? Hi Paul,
> Perhaps I missed this somewhere in the previous messages, but when the wind gets uncomfortable while sailing, you can lower the pop-top and then lower the boom to a lower position.  There should be a hole in the mast where the spring pin by the gooseneck fits into.  This will reduce heeling, but... puts the boom at a position where you can easily hit your head.  Both my '81 and '03 Rhodes had this feature.  This feature lowers the center of force from your mainsail and as a result, reduce heeling.
> Don Simons,Old Forge, NY
>    On Friday, August 8, 2025 at 08:58:29 AM EDT, Paul Rhodes <plrhodes29 at gmail.com> wrote:  
> 
> Thanks Roger, Ric, Larry, Todd, Chris et al for your welcoming words and informative discussion on shortening sail and keeping Commodores happy!  I?ll enjoy putting your thoughts into practice.
> 
> Larry, Stan also thought that with our name, it was meant to be, and I won?t argue.  I?ve been trying to find a familial connection with Phil ever since I heard about him as a kid. 
> 
> Paul
> 
> Sent from my iPhone  

From ruehbl at msn.com  Mon Aug 11 13:38:53 2025
From: ruehbl at msn.com (BARRY RUEHLEN)
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2025 17:38:53 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Re Shortening Sail
In-Reply-To: <691FCCC4-C654-4626-B186-82E3CEBE8F3A@gmail.com>
References: <542515011.2133783.1754864914742@mail.yahoo.com>
 <691FCCC4-C654-4626-B186-82E3CEBE8F3A@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BL0PR02MB6531578C5158EB4911C2EE60C128A@BL0PR02MB6531.namprd02.prod.outlook.com>

I was actually about to reach out to the group about the second position on the main boom. We have recently completed the rebuild of our 87 model, and are now sorting through some of the Rhodes specific nuances. So, how does the lower boom position relate to our imf main?
Best,
Barry Ruehlen
SV Perseverance 87
Saint James City, fl

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
Get Outlook for Android<https://aka.ms/AAb9ysg>
________________________________
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of Paul Rhodes <plrhodes29 at gmail.com>
Sent: Monday, August 11, 2025 11:18:32 AM
To: Donald Simons <borderfolle at yahoo.com>; The Rhodes Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Cc: The Rhodes Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Re Shortening Sail

Hi Don,

That?s a good idea.  We didn?t bother to raise the poptop and enclosure because it was only a day sail and with rain likely.  I?ve read about lowering the boom as ?the first reef?, but didn?t think of it that day, nor had I explored how to move the attachment.  Your description will help!

Paul

Sent from my iPhone

> On 10. Aug 2025, at 18:29, Donald Simons via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>
> ? Hi Paul,
> Perhaps I missed this somewhere in the previous messages, but when the wind gets uncomfortable while sailing, you can lower the pop-top and then lower the boom to a lower position.  There should be a hole in the mast where the spring pin by the gooseneck fits into.  This will reduce heeling, but... puts the boom at a position where you can easily hit your head.  Both my '81 and '03 Rhodes had this feature.  This feature lowers the center of force from your mainsail and as a result, reduce heeling.
> Don Simons,Old Forge, NY
>    On Friday, August 8, 2025 at 08:58:29 AM EDT, Paul Rhodes <plrhodes29 at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Thanks Roger, Ric, Larry, Todd, Chris et al for your welcoming words and informative discussion on shortening sail and keeping Commodores happy!  I?ll enjoy putting your thoughts into practice.
>
> Larry, Stan also thought that with our name, it was meant to be, and I won?t argue.  I?ve been trying to find a familial connection with Phil ever since I heard about him as a kid.
>
> Paul
>
> Sent from my iPhone

From 62himis at gmail.com  Mon Aug 11 16:07:26 2025
From: 62himis at gmail.com (Larry W)
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2025 16:07:26 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] 2 questions about my Rhodes
Message-ID: <CAE=38+vZ9iETUSb-AEemje8unzeYQd7EJVDqtmRKQ93KBHp79Q@mail.gmail.com>

I bought my Rhodes last year and have not had it in the water yet. When I
get the mast up and boom on in my driveway I may be able to tell what this
is for. What is the cleat in the cabin as you step through the
companionway? It is on the centerboard trunk and its position tells me a
line comes down from above to be cleated.

From what I gather the hull is one piece and deck is one piece. Where the
two meet a previous owner ran what looks to be a continuous silicone bead
around the boat. Is there an issue with the Rhodes leaking water into the
cabin at this point? Serenity is a 1990 model.

Larry Willis
Serenity
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From mweisner at ebsmed.com  Mon Aug 11 16:21:31 2025
From: mweisner at ebsmed.com (Michael D. Weisner)
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2025 16:21:31 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] 2 questions about my Rhodes
In-Reply-To: <CAE=38+vZ9iETUSb-AEemje8unzeYQd7EJVDqtmRKQ93KBHp79Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAE=38+vZ9iETUSb-AEemje8unzeYQd7EJVDqtmRKQ93KBHp79Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <002b01dc0afd$8796c180$96c44480$@ebsmed.com>

Larry,

Welcome to the Rhodes 22 Owner's email list. Glad to have you aboard, even if still on the hard.

I've seen a cleat in the position that you have only once before. It was to securely "lock" the companionway door using a line that was affixed to the door threaded through the cleat on the front of the centerboard step. After inserting the door, the line was cleated tight followed by sliding the poptop hatch closed and locked.

The silicone bead that you have was probably added to prevent water intrusion when sailing in rough conditions. Most likely it didn?t work too well as silicone caulk is meant to be compressed to effectively seal against leaks. There are better products to work as a sealant when applied as a "bead".

Mike
s/v Wind Lass ('91)
Nissequogue River, NY
I?d rather be sailing :~)

-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of Larry W
Sent: Monday, August 11, 2025 4:07 PM
To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] 2 questions about my Rhodes

I bought my Rhodes last year and have not had it in the water yet. When I get the mast up and boom on in my driveway I may be able to tell what this is for. What is the cleat in the cabin as you step through the companionway? It is on the centerboard trunk and its position tells me a line comes down from above to be cleated.

>From what I gather the hull is one piece and deck is one piece. Where the two meet a previous owner ran what looks to be a continuous silicone bead around the boat. Is there an issue with the Rhodes leaking water into the cabin at this point? Serenity is a 1990 model.

Larry Willis
Serenity
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From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Mon Aug 11 16:39:15 2025
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2025 20:39:15 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] 2 questions about my Rhodes
In-Reply-To: <CAE=38+vZ9iETUSb-AEemje8unzeYQd7EJVDqtmRKQ93KBHp79Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAE=38+vZ9iETUSb-AEemje8unzeYQd7EJVDqtmRKQ93KBHp79Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BY5PR10MB3825E3B338014B3075E5FE498028A@BY5PR10MB3825.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Hi Larry,

By any chance, does your boat have any rigging on the cabin roof above this cleat for a lee cloth?  This would keep you in your berth as the boat rolls.

The hull to deck joint is constructed like the lid on a shoebox.  The deck slides over the hull.  The joint is sealed with polyurethane foam tape and secured with rivets.   This is an inherently strong joint.  But, anything can wear out eventually.  Your hull to deck joint is something like 35 years old.  Is there any evidence of a collision that might have compromised the hull to deck joint?  Try blasting water from a garden hose with a spray nozzle at the underside of the hull to deck joint.  Do this all around the boat.  Any leaks should be quickly revealed inside the cabin.  Fixing a leak in this area is a big deal, so good luck!

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
1976. Sanford, MI
Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 11, 2025, at 4:07?PM, Larry W <62himis at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> ?I bought my Rhodes last year and have not had it in the water yet. When I
> get the mast up and boom on in my driveway I may be able to tell what this
> is for. What is the cleat in the cabin as you step through the
> companionway? It is on the centerboard trunk and its position tells me a
> line comes down from above to be cleated.
>
> From what I gather the hull is one piece and deck is one piece. Where the
> two meet a previous owner ran what looks to be a continuous silicone bead
> around the boat. Is there an issue with the Rhodes leaking water into the
> cabin at this point? Serenity is a 1990 model.
>
> Larry Willis
> Serenity
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From mtroy at atlanticbb.net  Mon Aug 11 16:52:08 2025
From: mtroy at atlanticbb.net (Mary Lou Troy)
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2025 16:52:08 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] 2 questions about my Rhodes
In-Reply-To: <002b01dc0afd$8796c180$96c44480$@ebsmed.com>
References: <CAE=38+vZ9iETUSb-AEemje8unzeYQd7EJVDqtmRKQ93KBHp79Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <002b01dc0afd$8796c180$96c44480$@ebsmed.com>
Message-ID: <c287e815-0f75-4b2a-b6cf-f1a4317a3c42@atlanticbb.net>

Yes we had a cleat there to keep the the poptop secured. Run a line 
around the aft bar of the poptop and cleat at that cleat. We rarely used 
it but if you were a marina you didn't know and were uneasy about the 
contents of you boat it was kut an extra precaution.

Mary Lou
ex Rhodes 22
now Rosborough RF 246? "Tara"

On 8/11/2025 4:21 PM, Michael D. Weisner wrote:
> Larry,
>
> Welcome to the Rhodes 22 Owner's email list. Glad to have you aboard, even if still on the hard.
>
> I've seen a cleat in the position that you have only once before. It was to securely "lock" the companionway door using a line that was affixed to the door threaded through the cleat on the front of the centerboard step. After inserting the door, the line was cleated tight followed by sliding the poptop hatch closed and locked.
>
> The silicone bead that you have was probably added to prevent water intrusion when sailing in rough conditions. Most likely it didn?t work too well as silicone caulk is meant to be compressed to effectively seal against leaks. There are better products to work as a sealant when applied as a "bead".
>
> Mike
> s/v Wind Lass ('91)
> Nissequogue River, NY
> I?d rather be sailing :~)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of Larry W
> Sent: Monday, August 11, 2025 4:07 PM
> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] 2 questions about my Rhodes
>
> I bought my Rhodes last year and have not had it in the water yet. When I get the mast up and boom on in my driveway I may be able to tell what this is for. What is the cleat in the cabin as you step through the companionway? It is on the centerboard trunk and its position tells me a line comes down from above to be cleated.
>
> >From what I gather the hull is one piece and deck is one piece. Where the two meet a previous owner ran what looks to be a continuous silicone bead around the boat. Is there an issue with the Rhodes leaking water into the cabin at this point? Serenity is a 1990 model.
>
> Larry Willis
> Serenity
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From mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com  Mon Aug 11 18:23:13 2025
From: mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com (Michael McKay)
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2025 18:23:13 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] 2 questions about my Rhodes
In-Reply-To: <002b01dc0afd$8796c180$96c44480$@ebsmed.com>
References: <002b01dc0afd$8796c180$96c44480$@ebsmed.com>
Message-ID: <4BF15E3E-F63A-4B76-9481-B65FBDC31859@gmail.com>

The idea is to tie a line to the pop top frame and cleat it down to prevent someone from just lifting up the pop top when the companionway lock is engaged.  Not a bad idea, but a determined thief would do very expensive damage pretty easily so
I don?t bother locking the companionway. Been lucky so far. 

Michael McKay
(630) 209-2054 (m)

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 11, 2025, at 4:27?PM, Michael D. Weisner <mweisner at ebsmed.com> wrote:
> 
> ?Larry,
> 
> Welcome to the Rhodes 22 Owner's email list. Glad to have you aboard, even if still on the hard.
> 
> I've seen a cleat in the position that you have only once before. It was to securely "lock" the companionway door using a line that was affixed to the door threaded through the cleat on the front of the centerboard step. After inserting the door, the line was cleated tight followed by sliding the poptop hatch closed and locked.
> 
> The silicone bead that you have was probably added to prevent water intrusion when sailing in rough conditions. Most likely it didn?t work too well as silicone caulk is meant to be compressed to effectively seal against leaks. There are better products to work as a sealant when applied as a "bead".
> 
> Mike
> s/v Wind Lass ('91)
> Nissequogue River, NY
> I?d rather be sailing :~)
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of Larry W
> Sent: Monday, August 11, 2025 4:07 PM
> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] 2 questions about my Rhodes
> 
> I bought my Rhodes last year and have not had it in the water yet. When I get the mast up and boom on in my driveway I may be able to tell what this is for. What is the cleat in the cabin as you step through the companionway? It is on the centerboard trunk and its position tells me a line comes down from above to be cleated.
> 
> From what I gather the hull is one piece and deck is one piece. Where the two meet a previous owner ran what looks to be a continuous silicone bead around the boat. Is there an issue with the Rhodes leaking water into the cabin at this point? Serenity is a 1990 model.
> 
> Larry Willis
> Serenity
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