[Rhodes22-list] Right from the get go
Wally Buck
tnrhodey@hotmail.com
Sat, 09 Nov 2002 08:57:40 -0500
Roger,
Stan should pay you for this stuff. :-)
Alice,
Welcome aboard. Not much to add to Roger's excellent response. I bought my
84 Rhodes 22 this Spring and love my boat. If you have any questions ask
away. GB is a great company to deal with. I did not purchase my boat from
them but I have still managed to spend about $700 this year on add ons and I
am not yet done. I have the IMF Main and my boat did not come with the GB
Mast Hoist. If you go IMF get the hoist unless you will have a couple of
strong guys to help, the mast is very heavy. With the hoist it is very
simple and I can do by myself. Much safer.
Wally, Knoxville TN
>From: "Roger Pihlaja" <cen09402@centurytel.net>
>Reply-To: The Rhodes 22 mail list <rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org>
>To: "The Rhodes 22 mail list" <rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org>
>Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Right from the get go
>Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 07:05:59 -0500
>
>Hi Alice!
>
>Check out the following links:
>
>1) Photos of Rhodes boats <http://www.rhodes22.org/rhodes/index.html>
>2) Frequently Asked Questions <http://www.geocities.com/blew_skies/>
>3) Documentation Library <http://www.rhodes22.org/doclib/>
>
>Welcome aboard. The options you will want to order depend upon what you
>plan to do with your R-22.
>
>For example, do you plan to trailer the boat to distant waters or will you
>keep it in the water someplace local? If you plan to trailer allot, then
>get the Unimatic trailer. If not, then have your local marina provide you
>with a storage cradle.
>
>How much sailing experience do you have? It sounds like this may be your
>1st sailboat. Are you performance or convenience oriented? If you are
>inclined towards racing or just getting the most speed out of your boat,
>then get the standard mainsail. On the other hand, if your inclinations
>are
>more towards painless sailing with no hassles or if the thought of leaving
>the cockpit to go to the mast to handle the mainsail scares you a little,
>then get the IMF mainsail.
>
>Most R-22's come with some sort of auxiliary engine. The required size
>depends upon the waters in which you will use the boat. The minimum engine
>size is about 2 hp & that will only be large enough to maneuver the boat
>around a dock or launch ramp when there is virtually no wind or current, in
>other words in very sheltered protected water under almost ideal
>conditions.
>If you plan to use your R-22 in bigger waves, wind, or current, think you
>may need to use the engine sometimes to get somewhere, &/or would like to
>have an alternator to recharge your batteries while the engine is running;
>then you should upgrade to at least 6 hp. I use an 8 hp outboard on the
>Great Lakes & lots of R-22 owners use a 9.9 hp outboard. Whatever size
>outboard you choose, get at least a "long shaft" version so that the prop
>will reach the water. Some outboards offer the option of an "extra long
>shaft" version which will submerge the prop an extra couple of inches.
>This
>extra immersion depth is a good deal if you plan on being able to motor the
>boat in waves larger than about 3 feet. If you plan on using the boat only
>in protected water where the waves don't normally get that big, then don't
>bother with the extra expense & weight of the extra long shaft option.
>Whatever size & make of outboard you choose, the GBI outboard motor mount
>is
>a good deal. Outboard motors come in two types of engines these days,
>2-cycle & 4-cycle. 2-cycle engines are initially cheaper & lighter & have
>no internal crankcase oil to leak out if you set them down wrong. But,
>2-cycle engines require you to mix oil with your gasoline, get about half
>the fuel economy, are noisier, & emit about 10X more pollution & smoke than
>the 4-cycle engines. 4-cycle engines are quieter, burn straight gasoline,
>emit no smoke & much less pollution, & get about twice as many miles per
>gallon. Electric start or manual-only (pull cord) start? How strong are
>you? The larger the engine, the harder it will be to pull start & 4-cycle
>engines tend to be harder to pull start than 2-cycle engines. But, getting
>electric start also requires you to have a starting battery, which adds
>weight & extra cost. Do you want remote cockpit or tiller mounted engine
>controls? Well, I have them & I love them. They make pulling up to a dock
>much easier & they just make the boat seem more "yachtlike". However, they
>do add cost & you can get by using only the engine controls mounted on the
>outboard engine. If you are going to have any sort of on-board electrical
>system on your R-22, then you will have at least one or perhaps two
>batteries. How will you recharge that battery? One option is to have a
>built-in alternator on the outboard engine. Another possibility is the GBI
>solar cell option. For the record, my R-22 has an 8 hp Honda 4-cycle
>outboard with remote cockpit engine controls, an alternator, extra long
>shaft engine, & no electric start.
>
>Do you sunburn easily or live in an area where the afternoon sun beats down
>mercilessly? If so, then the bimini top provides welcome shade in the
>cockpit.
>
>If you plan to just simply daysail the boat, then you can get by with a
>very
>lightly optioned boat. If you plan to cruise & stay overnight on the boat,
>then you will need the galley, pop top enclosure, head, shore power, etc.
>Do you plan to sail out of sight of land or in unfamiliar waters? If so,
>then instruments like compass, knotlog, depthsounder, & GPS are pretty
>important things to have on board. Wherever you plan to sail, get a good
>pair of waterproof 7 X 50mm binoculars.
>
>If you are planning to stay overnight on the boat with more than a couple
>of
>people, then the boom room enclosure is a good deal. It's an expensive
>option, but much cheaper than a bigger boat!
>
>It's pretty much impossible to raise & lower the mast by yourself without
>some sort of mechanical aid. Will you always have help when you raise &
>lower the mast? If not, then the GBI single-handed mast raising option is
>a
>good deal.
>
>Lifelines, or stainless steel railings, or nothing at all? How coordinated
>are you? Will you be sailing with young children? Will you be sailing
>alone? Will you be sailing on "blue water" or in a small protected cove?
>My R-22 has a custom set of stainless steel railings that I built myself.
>But, this was before the factory started offering their stainless railing
>option. I'd have probably bought the factory railing option if it had been
>available. In my opinion, the lifelines are a pretty useless, even
>dangerous option. They are too low to be useful at keeping you aboard,
>might even cause you to go over backwards by tripping right behind the
>knees, tend to snag sails & lines, & tend to make boarding & unboarding
>from
>a dock more difficult. But, the stainless steel railings are an expensive
>option & lots of R-22's have nothing at all.
>
>I would recommend you check out the FAQ & photo pages listed above. Then,
>if you have any specific questions, ask away & the list will try to help.
>
>Roger Pihlaja
>S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <AMICW@aol.com>
>To: <rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org>
>Sent: Friday, November 08, 2002 11:16 PM
>Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Right from the get go
>
>
> > Hi Rhodes owners! I will be purchasing a "recycled" rhodes and would
>like
>to
> > inquire as to which "optional" features you find most needed/useful.
>Thanks
> > for the help.
> > Alice
> > _________________________________________________
> > Use Rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org, Help? www.rhodes22.org/list
> >
>
>_________________________________________________
>Use Rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org, Help? www.rhodes22.org/list
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