[ham] [Rhodes22-list] Stan, will the real paint stand up?

Saroj saroj@pathfind.net
Wed, 2 Apr 2003 09:03:27 -0500 

Can anyone tell me how I can tell if my bottom paint is still good?  That
is, without finding it covered in animals in 3 months.  About to put it into
salt water after quite a few years in fresh or on the trailer.  It is still
very powdery.  Or is this just a regular maintenance item regardless of what
it's current active state is?

Thanks,
Saroj

----- Original Message -----
From: "Mary Lou Troy" <mltroy@netreach.net>
To: "The Rhodes 22 mail list" <rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org>
Sent: Wednesday, April 02, 2003 8:31 AM
Subject: Re: [ham] [Rhodes22-list] Stan, will the real paint stand up?


> I would like to add to the bottom paint confusion that we use Woolsey
> Neptune II keeping Fretless in a slip in the brackish water of the upper
> Chesapeake Bay. It's ablative and seems to do a good job keeping the scum
> and the growth down. We generally give the waterline a scrub once or twice
> a season. It's very attractive to us because it is water based - no nasty
> solvents to breathe in the application. You still have to protect yourself
> and the environment from the dust sanding (high copper content) but the
> application and clean-up are much easier.
>
> Mary Lou
>
>
> At 01:48 AM 4/2/2003 -0600, you wrote:
> >The Zebra Mussels are here in the Mississippi and the Minnesota Rivers.
> >
> >And speaking of cancerous marine life, has anyone heard anything lately
> >about the Chinese Snake Fish?  This critter not only infests its habitat,
it
> >can wiggle its way across dry land, apparently quite a distance, and
infest
> >neighboring waters as well.   Scary!
> >
> >But I digress--back to bottom paint.  Sorry to sound so stupid but,
> >hey...too much information f**ks me up  :-)  The bottom paint that's on
my
> >boat now is sort of chalky and rubs off on your hand, or anything else,
wet
> >or dry.  This is called "ablative", right?  Again, sorry to be stupid.
I'm
> >up here in MN in fresh, cool water and whatever this is on my boat seems
to
> >work pretty well keeping off the slime.  So I was thinking about just
giving
> >'er a light sand and laying on a couple coats of the same paint. No
primer,
> >no fuss, no muss.  Just paint it.  Would it be so wrong?  But what
exactly
> >is the name (brand) of this kind of paint?  Can I just ask for Interlux
> >ablative at WM or do I really have to do all those chemistry tests on the
> >existing paint to determine exactly the shoe size of the original
painter,
> >etc.?  I'm OK with cutting some corners--I just want a
> >pretty-decent-do-it-yourself job done the easy way.
> >
> >The PS pick is Interlux Micron Optima two-part ablative.  How many coats
per
> >gallon?   Comments anyone?
> >
> >
> >Slim
> >S/V Fandango
> >
> >On 4/1/03 10:41 PM, "anima" <anima13@bellsouth.net> wrote:
> >
> > > Wally, a big problem here as well!
> > > Anne
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Wally Buck" <tnrhodey@hotmail.com>
> > > To: <rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org>
> > > Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2003 6:10 PM
> > > Subject: Re: [ham] [Rhodes22-list] Stan, will the real paint stand up?
> > >
> > >
> > >> Rummy,
> > >>
> > >> Those pesky Zebra Mussels are spreading beyond the Great Lakes.
Although
> > > not
> > >> a big problem yet on the TN River, they are starting to show up. We
get
> > >> quite a bit of boat traffic from people who cruise from the Great
Lakes
> > > and
> > >> the mussels travel down with them.
> > >>
> > >> It would be nice if Zebra Mussels tasted good. It never seems to work
out
> > >> that way though.
> > >>
> > >> Wally
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>> From: "John Tonjes" <johntonjes@earthlink.net>
> > >>> Reply-To: johntonjes@earthlink.net,The Rhodes 22 mail list
> > >>> <rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org>
> > >>> To: "The Rhodes 22 mail list" <rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org>
> > >>> Subject: Re: [ham] [Rhodes22-list] Stan, will the real paint stand
up?
> > >>> Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2003 17:44:24 -0500
> > >>>
> > >>> MJM,
> > >>> It depends where the fresh water is located. Our lake, Lake Hartwell
in
> > >>> South Carolina, is notorious for vigorous growth. It requires a very
> > > strong
> > >>> anti-fouling paint such as the Interlux Micron Extra with Biolux.
Zebra
> > >>> Mussels are pretty much contained to the Great Lakes from what I
> > >>> understand.
> > >>> Most boats when pulled after spending only a few weeks in the water
> > > without
> > >>> any protection have acquired the notorious Hartwell stripe (aka:
slime).
> > >>> It's not hard to clean when you first pull the boat, just don't let
it
> > > sit
> > >>> around and dry on the hull. It's so bad, I'm contemplating putting
> > >>> anti-fouling on the bottom of my run about.
> > >>> When I pulled Rum Runner from the lake for the bottom work, there
was a
> > >>> good 1/2 inch of growth on the bottom. I wonder if that was slowing
me
> > > down
> > >>> any?
> > >>>
> > >>> Rummy
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>>> [Original Message]
> > >>>> From: Michael Meltzer <mjm@michaelmeltzer.com>
> > >>>> To: The Rhodes 22 mail list <rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org>
> > >>>> Date: 4/1/2003 4:33:02 PM
> > >>>> Subject: Re: [ham] [Rhodes22-list] Stan, will the real paint stand
up?
> > >>>>
> > >>>> freah water does not a problem with hard growth, just zebra musles,
> > > the
> > >>> grasses and slime are more of the a problem, most of the
> > >>>> hight rated paints will work, the thought problem are salt/brackish
> > >>> water. it is a hard paint, the "sr" version is a big plus in
> > >>>> this case, alittle overkill for freash water.
> > >>>>
> > >>>> MJM
> > >>>> ----- Original Message -----
> > >>>> From: "Steve Alm" <salm@mn.rr.com>
> > >>>> To: "Rhodes" <rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org>
> > >>>> Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2003 4:13 PM
> > >>>> Subject: Re: [ham] [Rhodes22-list] Stan, will the real paint stand
up?
> > >>>>
> > >>>>
> > >>>>> Is the Petit Trinidad an ablative?  Is there a different bottom
> > > paint
> > >>> for
> > >>>>> salt/fresh water?
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>> On 4/1/03 11:57 AM, "Michael Meltzer" <mjm@michaelmeltzer.com>
> > > wrote:
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>>> Cut Stan a break, do you really think he keeps track of the
bottom
> > >>> paint on
> > >>>>>> every boat.
> > >>>>>> I am sure him like other just look at the paint on the boat for
> > > the
> > >>> answer.
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>>> the issues:
> > >>>>>> Teflon can only go over Teflon, Stan does not use it unless
> > > someone
> > >>> sent him
> > >>>>>> some.
> > >>>>>> High copper hard epoxy, his favorite, if in good shape anything
> > > can
> > >>> go over.
> > >>>>>> adbaitve, only abative can go over, it washs off(hint, wet a
area,
> > >>> good, then
> > >>>>>> try a scrubber sponge, does it come off like a bar of
> > >>>>>> soap).
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>>> This is my second time trying to help, you never answered the
> > >>> questions from
> > >>>>>> last time how it being used..........
> > >>>>>> BTW Awlgrip is know for thier top side paint, not thier bottom
> > > pain.
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>>> MJM
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>>> ----- Original Message -----
> > >>>>>> From: "Ken Wise" <skipperken@excite.com>
> > >>>>>> To: <rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org>
> > >>>>>> Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2003 12:34 PM
> > >>>>>> Subject: [ham] [Rhodes22-list] Stan, will the real paint stand
up?
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>>>>
> > >>>>>>> Stan, we need to reapply an anti-fouling paint to the bottom of
> > >>> Awaken, but
> > >>>>>>> want to know what paint you used to make certain what
> > >>>>>> we choose is compatable. I used the faq site and got an answer of
> > >>> Awlgrip. Gil
> > >>>>>> said you used Petit Trinidad on his boat. Only you
> > >>>>>> know what is on my boat, please clear this up. Ken
> > >>>>>>>
> > >>>>>>>
> > >>>>>>> Ken Wise
> > >>>>>>> Awaken
> > >>>>>>> Trail Creek Marina
> > >>>>>>> Michigan City, IN
> > >>>>>>>
> > >>>>>>> _______________________________________________
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> > >>
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