[Rhodes22-list] Tiller Repair Question

Steve rhodes2282@yahoo.com
Tue, 18 Mar 2003 06:06:21 -0800 (PST)


Wally
Just make a cover for your hatch door which will solve
the pinao hinge problem.  I used some Pacific Blue
sumbrella & bought a snap kit from WM.  Worked great.
Steve


--- Wally Buck <tnrhodey@hotmail.com> wrote:
> Alex,
> 
> Thanks; it is a good tip. I use a similar technique
> but with a different 
> product. I use CPES (Clear Penetrating Epoxy
> Sealant); a two part product 
> designed as a wood sealant. When I was making
> repairs on the Bantam I 
> visited aseveral Wooden Boat sites (I still do) and
> heard rave reviews about 
> this product. Most of these guys liked West products
> but felt CPES was 
> vastly superior to thinned West Epoxy as a pre-coat.
> It is designed for 
> pentration and absortion into wood products from the
> start, no thinning 
> needed. On the CPES web site they claim an absortion
> rate of 4X over thinned 
> Epoxy and 9x over standard Epoxy Resin.
> 
> I have used CPES extensively as a first layer(s) on
> my wooden Rhodes Bantem. 
> It is an extremely thin Epoxy Sealant that paints
> (or sprays) on. Dry wood 
> soaks this stuff right up and it dries fast. I have
> the injection kit for as 
> well but the needle is to big for the crack. PO
> painted R22 cabin hatch with 
> some type of Epoxy as well. I sanded that down last
> summer and applied CPES 
> followed by several coats  Marine Z Spar Varnish.
> 
> Sunday I covered the bare tiller with two coats of
> CPES and let CPES drip in 
> the crack. Last night I stuck a razor knife in crack
> to open up a little and 
> drizzled in some epoxy laminating resin (designed
> for wood use) left over 
> from past repairs on the Bantam. I put three clamps
> on tiller and when I 
> inspect today it should be ready for a light sanding
> and then varnish build 
> up. I like easy projects like this. Not hard to do
> and the wood looks 
> awesome when redone.
> 
> I still need to figure out a way to keep rain water
> off the cabin step....
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Wally
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> >From: Alex Bell <alexbell@coastalnet.com>
> >Reply-To: alexbell@coastalnet.com,The Rhodes 22
> mail list 
> ><rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org>
> >To: The Rhodes 22 mail list
> <rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org>
> >Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Tiller Repair Question
> >Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 00:11:18 -0500
> >
> >Wally,
> >
> >I just got a tip from a teak refinisher regarding
> using epoxy coatings
> >on the teak. She said that she thins a mixture of
> West System epoxy so
> >that it will penetrate the wood. After that, she
> applies varnish (about
> >6 coats). The varnish protects the epoxy so that it
> does not turn
> >yellow, etc. A touch up coat each spring will allow
> the finish to last
> >for years without removing and refinishing. Seems
> like thinned epoxy
> >will also go into the delaminated areas easier too.
> >
> >Alex
> >
> >Wally Buck wrote:
> > >
> > > The guy I purchased my boat from had painted
> resin or epoxy on the 
> >tiller
> > > handle. It looks like crap and it is peeling and
> turning yellow. Also 
> >two of
> > > the wood layers are seperating. I wanted to sail
> last year so I put off
> > > tiller repairs untill Spring.
> > >
> > > Now that warm weather has arrived I can start
> hitting it with varnish. I
> > > sanded down to bare wood yesterday and the
> tiller looks great. I have 
> >about
> > > a 8 inch split in between two of the layers of
> wood. I am sure this is 
> >why
> > > the PO applied expoy coat. The job was not done
> properly and I want to
> > > reseal the split area.
> > >
> > > The gap is very small and it will be hard to
> fill in the space with 
> >epoxy. I
> > > think this is what the PO tried but he wasn't
> able to seal it off. He 
> >only
> > > epoxied the outer edge and it seperated after
> time. I want to try and 
> >epoxy
> > > the inside of the split and then clamp the
> tiller until epoxy sets. I 
> >was
> > > also thinking of using a screw(s) from the
> bottom of the tiller to help 
> >draw
> > > the wood together. I will then varnish with
> several coats of Z Spar.
> > >
> > > Is there a better way to do this repair? I was
> really surprised to find 
> >out
> > > how nice the wood looked under all that opaque
> epoxy.
> > >
> > > Thanks for any suggestions or tips!
> > >
> > > Wally
> > >
> > >
>
_________________________________________________________________
> > >
> >_________________________________________________
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> 
> 
>
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