[Rhodes22-list] bottom paint used by everyone.
Kroposki
kroposki@innova.net
Sun, 30 Mar 2003 12:22:00 -0500
Ken:
Does any of this old stuff help?
Left vs. Right (politics)
Hey Michael.
What brand do you use? I have always use Interlux
Bottomkote but then I am also in freshwater.
Steve
--- Michael Meltzer <mjm@michaelmeltzer.com wrote:
speaking of spring, I just paid 165$ for a stinking
galleon of bottompaint, that stuff is worth is
weight in copper :-)
Bruce,
Yes, If it cures too hard the ablative properties are diminished. My
boat
was on the hard for over a year when I boat it. I was instructed to hose
down the hull and then brush lightly before launching. I am not sure if
it
actually did anything but I figured what the hell...
Wally
From: "Bruce M. Greenwald" <bgreenwald@optonline.net
Reply-To: The Rhodes 22 mail list <rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org
To: The Rhodes 22 mail list <rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] FW: bottom paint
Date: Sun, 09 Mar 2003 20:06:11 -0500
I did some minor repairs to my rudder today and, in preparing to apply a
coat of anti-fouling paint, I noticed that the instructions indicated
that the boat should be launhed no more than 60 days after being
painted. I was curious as to why there is a maximum time to launch. Is
that because the ablative properties are affected if the hull is not
immersed within that time period?
Bruce Greenwald
S/V Ruach II
Subject: Re: [ham] RE: [Rhodes22-list] Left vs. Right (politics)
I used/using ultama with sr, I almost used micron extra with
bio(whatever :-) but stuck with what on it(apc with sr), make life
easily :-), go two sessions out of the last gallion so I figuried maybe
I get 3 out of the new stuff :-), the stuff getting pricy I remeber
paying 109$ last round. I sail in the same waters that PS test in so it
make sence to follow the test results, bad floowing it is brackish
waters. I eat my hat if micro gets a better rating next month :-)
The imron and algrip need to be done by a pro, very nasty stuff, full
body suit, sealed mask, air hose and non explosive environment. Even
then having children and not dieing of cancer are debatable. The reason
they use the stuff is because most people have poor result with the
other stuff(single part and epoxy paint), Maybe paint pro's do better
not not you the first time, sorry. I would call around local and see
what they want, most quote by the foot, If you have other resions for
the boat to visit GB they can do it as well.
MJM
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Proud Daddy
I did the prep and did the bottom coat (Micron CSC with Biolux) as far
as I could while it was on the trailer. Then the guys at the marina put
it up in the travel hoist and did the areas I couldn't reach on the
trailer and then did a second coat also. The red and gold stripes (Yes
there is a gold stripe if you look closely) are vinyl as is the
lettering. All came from West Marine. They provided all at a very nice
price.
Fair Winds,
Bob Hendrickson
S/V Getaway
Subject: RE: [Rhodes22-list] Proud Daddy
Bob,
You have already been asked this question, but I have not seen
your reply. Did you Paint the outside?
Ed K
Subject: Re: [rhodes-list] Bottom paint
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 19:54:41 -0400
From: "ROBERT J QUINN" <rjquinn@prodigy.net
Reply-To: <rhodes-list@sailnet.net
To: <rhodes-list@sailnet.net
I have done both: cleaned with a power washer and painted; and had it
done by a marina. Only problem doing it yourself is getting under the
bunks. There are ways to jack the boat up to get to those areas.
Figure about $350 to $400 minimum at a marina. They generally charge by
the length of the boat and will kick the price up if the bottom is
really fouled. I've gone as long as 18 months between bottom jobs
using Petit Trinidad but I have either gone over the side and scrubbed
the boat down about once a month or had someone else do it. We are win
warm brackish water.
Bob on the "NoKaOi"
Subject: Re: [rhodes-list] Fairing a gouge
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 14:58:55 -0400
From: "Roger Pihlaja" <cen09402@centurytel.net
Reply-To: <rhodes-list@sailnet.net
To: <rhodes-list@sailnet.net
Rik,
I don't think the difference lies in our bottom paints or in the bunks.
However, for whatever it's worth, I use Interlux VC-17m bottom paint &
my trailer bunks are covered with low nap outdoor patio carpeting.
I suspect the height adjustment on your keel guide rollers (my trailer
has two keel rollers) is set too low. This causes too much of the
weight of the boat to be carried on the bunks, thus causing the boat's
position on the trailer to be difficult to adjust. Another thing to
check is the curvature & in/out adjustment of the bunks. If the bunks
do not properly conform to the shape of the hull, this could also cause
the sort of problem you are experiencing. Put the boat on the trailer &
get it in the proper trailering
position, i.e. bow hard up against the bow stop & the keel centered
side-to-side between the keel guides. If the boat is not properly
positioned on the trailer; then, using hydraulic jacks & blocks of wood,
carefully move it around & get it in the right place. With the boat
sitting in its proper position fore/aft & side-to-side on the trailer,
sight in-between the hull & the bunks. There should be an even, tight
fit all
along the length of the bunks on both sides until you get to the last
6-12" of bunk in the front. The last 6-12" of bunk in the front should
smoothly lift away from the hull until there is a gap of approximately
1" at the forward end. The aft end of the bunks should be in contact
with the hull right to the end. The bunks should also contact roughly
the same area down the length of the hull. If one of the bunks is
hitting the hull too far inboard or outboard relative to the other bunk,
it will cause the hull to sit cock-eyed on the trailer. This will put
too much load on one of the bunks & cause the boat to be hard to move
around on the trailer.
With the boat properly positioned fore/aft & side-to-side on the
trailer, the bunks properly adjusted, & the trailer sitting level on
flat ground; try to move the keel rollers. If you can budge them even
slightly, then too much of the boat's weight is resting on the bunks.
If you can see any deformation in the hull where it is resting on the
bunks &/or if you have any trouble opening & closing lockers & hatches
in the cabin, this is also diagnostic of this problem. The sliding
cabinet doors under the galley countertop are particularly sensitive to
this problem.
With the boat properly positioned on the trailer, loosen up the 4 bolts
on each keel roller & slide the keel roller assembly up until it is in
contact with the keel. Tighten up the 4 bolts. Mark the height of the
keel roller assembly on the trailer. Do this with all the keel rollers
(my trailer has 2 keel roller assemblies). Now put the boat in the
water. Go back to each keel roller, loosen up the 4 bolts, slide each
one up 3/4" relative to the marks you made earlier, & retighten the 4
bolts. While you are working with the keel rollers & the boat is not on
the trailer, check to be sure the keel rollers turn freely. If they
don't turn freely, then grease the keel roller axles or replace as
required.
Now, try recovering the boat using the procedure I described in my
earlier post & see if it's not a whole lot easier than before!
Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rik Sandberg" <racerrik@rea-alp.com
To: <rhodes-list@sailnet.net
Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2001 10:19 AM
Subject: RE: [rhodes-list] Fairing a gouge
Rummy and Roger,
Thanks for your replies.
These gouges are below the boot stripe, where the hull is bottom
painted. Provided I can figure out what kind of bottom paint I have,
color matching is not an issue. I wonder if Stan would have a record of
what product they used when they recycled her?
I think the West epoxy with colloidal silica will be my product choice.
One of these gouges is way more than a gel coat scratch. I will want to
make this as strong and abrasion resistant as possible. Then if (when
:-)?) there are future mishaps, those spots, at least, may be better
able to take some punishment.
Roger, I don't doubt that your loading plan works very well for you.
But, I am curious, is it possible that your bottom paint is perhaps a
lot slicker than mine? I find that I am not able to pull my boat up
with that much bunk showing, even with the winch. I have switched to a
2 speed 2000# winch and have cranked until I fear for both the strap
and/or the winch stand. And, I have tried the panic stop deal several
times, not necessarily intentionally, and have never had the boat move
at all. Well, one time it did move a little. When I was trying out a
new (to me) pickup, unbeknownst to us, the DPO had wired the trailer
brakes directly to the stop light switch, Allowing the full 12 volts to
the trailer brakes, whenever the brake lights were on. We didn't really
notice it at first, since the trailer had been sitting for quite a
while and it seems the brakes don't really start working well until
they have been applied a few times. But once they were broken in again?
Whoa, we had some serious stopping power whether we wanted it or not.
Anyway, even under these radical conditions, the boat only moved about
an inch.
I have heard recently about a product called Bunk Rollers, or some
such. It comes in an aerosol can and you spray it on your bunks. I
checked and it Is available at West Marine. The only thing that worries
me here, is that I don't want to make the bunks so slippery that the
boat wiggles all over the place on the road. Someone on the TSBB who
tried it, said his boat actually unloaded itself while backing down a
launch ramp, before the stern was even in the water. He, of course,
wasn't expecting this stuff to work "this
well" and had disconnected his winch strap before backing down the
ramp.
Fortunately, there was no damage, except to his pride. Has anybody else
tried this stuff???
Rik Sandberg
S/V Country Rhodes
Long Prairie, MN
Most things significant in life, are small and slow.
Subject: Re: [rhodes-list] Fairing a gouge
I have used the "Marine-Tex" epoxy putty for fairing out little gouges.
The color is a pretty close match to my topsides. I've also used WEST
epoxy thickened with their colloidal silica & tinted with TiO2 pigment
paste. Matching the color is the most difficult part.
It sounds to me like you are putting your trailer too deeply into the
water. I always leave the front of the bunks exposed. This serves both
as a trailer depth gauge & as a target to put your bow in-between.
With the trailer at the proper depth, the margin for error on bow
placement is +/- a couple of feet, not a couple of inches.
Enclosed is a copy of a previous post re the subject of putting the boat
on the trailer. Hope it helps.
Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
________________________________________________________________________
_
>From your descriptions of your boat recovery problems, it sounds like
you
are both doing something wrong. I can recover Dynamic Equilibrium
single-handed if necessary.
The amount of trailer bunk left exposed out of the water is the key:
Shallow slope on launch ramp, little or no cross wind/current, calm
sea:12"
Add 2" more exposed bunk for each condition:
steep launch ramp
cross wind 10 knots
cross current 2 knots
waves 1-3'
Thus, a situation with all of the above conditions would call for 12 +
8=20" of exposed bunk.
If there are waves 3', the recovery will be difficult at best. Leave
about 24" of bunk exposed. It helps to have a couple of helpers with
stern lines in this situation.
Note: Your boat & trailer may behave slightly different than mine, but
the
concepts & conditions to look for will be the same.
Use the exposed trailer bunks as your target. Approach the trailer at
a
slow walking speed, about 2 knots. Note: This is faster than dead
slow. You need a little momentum for this maneuver.
Note: This is no time to be timid!
Center the bow in-between the exposed bunks. Your momentum will carry
you up onto the exposed bunks, slow you down, & the bow will come to
rest against the bow stop. If you are slightly off center, the
funnelling keel guides on the trailer will automatically move back the
boat on center if the trailer depth is set as described above. As
long as you place the bow in-between the 2 exposed bunks, the trailer's
keel guides should have you centered up by the time the bow gets to the
trailer's bow stop.
Note: Hang onto something! This trailer centering action happens very
abruptly & can throw you off your feet.
If the stern of the boat wants to drift sideways in either direction,
then you didn't leave a sufficient amount of trailer bunks exposed.
Rather than try to play out a bad situation, put the engine in reverse,
back off the trailer, adjust the trailer position, & try again.
Now, leave the engine idling in gear, lock the tiller in center
position, & disconnect the gas line from the engine. If there is a
strong cross wind/cross current, then turn the engine slightly so the
thrust offsets
the wind/current. Quickly walk to the bow, step off onto the trailer
(here a welded-on platform might be nice), hook up the bow eye to the
trailer winch, & winch in the slack. The boat will not have to be
winched in very far. As waves tend to lift the stern, the thrust from
the motor will push the boat
forward, "taking up the slack".
Note: Keep your body pieces/parts out of the way of the boat & winch
during this operation!
Eventually, the motor will use up all the gas in the carburetor &
stall. Lock the winch & install a secondary restraining device on the
bow eye. I have a permanently mounted nylon strap with a hook that I
use as a secondary restraining device to hold the boat against the bow
roller if the winch should fail. Now, get into your tow vehicle, pull
the boat trailer up the launch ramp, & drive immediately to the
derigging area. If the boat is not centered on the trailer, then push
hard from either side at the stern You will find that the boat can be
rocked back on center. If the boat is not all the way up on the
trailer, then accelerate your car up to about 10 MPH in a straight line
& SLAM on the brakes. After you are stopped, walk back to the boat &
winch in the slack. Repeat as necessary. These adjustments should be
done as soon as you get the boat up on level ground. Do not allow the
hull & trailer bunks to dry out or you will not be able to move the
boat on the trailer. With everything wet & slippery, these manuevers
don't harm a
thing.
I usually don't attempt to balance on the trailer tongue while I'm
Winching in the boat. It's too easy to slip & fall. I suppose a
welded platform On the trailer tongue would be nice, but I still think
you'd get wet feet.
I'm not in the water more than a couple of minutes at most. I usually
wear water shoes.
My recovery procedure doesn't take any longer than any other 22' boat &
I'm in & out faster than most, even single-handed.
Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rik Sandberg" <racerrik@rea-alp.com
To: <rhodes-list@sailnet.net
Sent: Friday, October 26, 2001 6:21 PM
Subject: [rhodes-list] Fairing a gouge
All,
I have discovered the beauty of driving my boat directly onto the
trailer. Do not stop at the dock, do not collect $200. Unfortunately, I
have also discovered that a little gust at the wrong moment or just
missing the mark by a few inches, can put the bow on the outside of the
keel guides of the trailer. To my chagrin, I found that there are a
couple of brackets holding those guides up, that will make a nasty gouge
in your bow if you are inept enough to get into this situation. Now I
have to learn how to fair these gouges, which brings me to this
question. What is the best material and additives for this purpose?
Don't know for sure what kind of resin was used when the hull was built,
but I'm sure there is a Rhodie or two out there who does and has been
here before. Any and all education will be cheerfully accepted. Right
after I get done fairing the boat, I will also "fair" the brackets on
the keel guides. Don't need to do this twice.
Rik Sandberg