[Rhodes22-list]Garolite or wetted porous wood?

Lou Rosenberg lsr3 at MAIL.nyu.edu
Fri Dec 10 11:06:39 EST 2004


>Lou,



  Roger,
  Well there is no G 10 Garolite downtown so unless there is a Bklyn 
or Queens manufacturer who might have some I will order through the 
connection you listed yesterday, bookmarked in my IE favorites..
  hey I played TROMBONE for a living for 15yrs after college that is 
PERSERVERENCE at its best.. thru the dark days of  REAGANomics in NYC 
where many good musicians were playing on the street for a living,, 
fixing a broken CB trunk on my boat is like a freekin'  vacation 
compared to what I have to do now !!
  thanks for the encouragement.. its a day at a time for me!

  Lou

>
>You know what they say about the bumblebee?  The wonder of the creature is
>not that it flies so well; but, that it can fly at all!
>
>You have a serious structural problem with your Rhodes 22 & limited
>resources to repair it.  Many people would throw up their hands & walk away
>when confronted with your situation.  But, not you!
>
>I never said your centerboard well repair would be easy or simple.  However,
>I think you have a much better chance of ending up with a reasonably
>straight & fair centerboard well if you start with a nice flat piece of
>rigid G-10 sheet as opposed to limp fiberglass mat or cloth & attempt to
>laminate it in situ.  I know you will end up with a stronger, more water
>resistant, more abrasion resistant patch.  As far as what it looks like;
>well, I don't think there's going to be any substitute for your own Mark I
>eyeballs.  If it looks reasonably straight & fair; then, it's probably good
>enough.  Remember, it's far more important that the patch be stiff & strong
>& waterproof, not just today, but also 5 years from now.  Remember, nobody
>is going to see this patch except you.
>
>Good luck, man!
>
>Roger Pihlaja
>S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Lou Rosenberg" <steadilsr at verizon.net>
>To: "The Rhodes 22 mail list" <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>Sent: Friday, December 10, 2004 8:17 AM
>Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list]Garolite or wetted porous wood?
>
>
>>  Roger,
>>    Ok say I use the  Garolite and get it to fit the space where the
>>  removed FRP was, do you then recommend just a barrier coat and then the
>>  paint?   I am going to have to be very careful with the tolerances I
>>  create with the new materials and since I have such a mis shaped trunk
>>  I really dont have anything to measure for  a good standard of what my
>>  trunk space should be.
>>    I see your point w the wood and am going downtown today in search of
>>  some garolite!
>>    Be well and Thanks so much for all your advice and expertise!
>>    Lou
>>
>>  On Friday, December 10, 2004, at 04:59 AM, Roger Pihlaja wrote:
>>
>>  > Lou,
>>  >
>>  > OK, let's think about what wood is.  Wood is a composite of cellulose
>>  > fibers
>>  > stuck together with lignin "glue".  You can wet out the cellulose wood
>>  > fibers with epoxy & end up with a composite structure that is
>>  > relatively
>>  > more water resistant.  However, in an abrasive wear situation with
>>  > water
>>  > immersion, like you seem to have in your centerboard well, are you
>>  > going to
>>  > trust that the epoxy coating is going to provide long-term
>>  > waterproofing for
>>  > the wood?  Yes, yes, I know that people build epoxy cedar strip canoes
>>  > all
>>  > the time & they seem to work just fine.  But, unless you can assure the
>>  > epoxy resin is going to be infused all thru the wood fibers, I wouldn't
>>  > trust this MOC in an underwater situation with abrasive wear.  The
>>  > only way
>>  > I know to assure that kind of epoxy infusion would be to apply the
>>  > epoxy to
>>  > the wood in a high pressure autoclave to drive the liquid resin deep
>>  > into
>>  > the wood microstructure.  Simply wetting out the wood with epoxy won't
>>  > get
>>  > to the same state.
>>  >
>>  > In contrast, G-10 uses glass fibers and the epoxy resin is uniformly
>>  > distributed throughout the composite microstructure.  Now, even in the
>>  > presence of abrasive wear, water is not going to penetrate into the
>  > > G-10
>>  > composite structure.  Even if water did penetrate, the glass fibers
>>  > are not
>>  > going to biodegrade over time like the cellulose fibers in wood.
>>  >
>>  > The bottom line is, wood strips coated with epoxy will probably be
>>  > sufficiently stiff to serve in this repair application.  Long term
>>  > durability will be questionable.  A repair made with G-10 will be
>>  > about as
>>  > bulletproof as I know how to make it, given your situation and
>>  > available
>>  > resources.
>>  >
>>  > It's your boat so you get to make the call.
>>  >
>>  > Roger Pihlaja
>>  > S/V Dynamic Equilbrium
>>  >
>>  > ----- Original Message -----
>>  > From: "Lou Rosenberg" <steadilsr at verizon.net>
>>  > To: "The Rhodes 22 mail list" <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>>  > Sent: Thursday, December 09, 2004 10:35 PM
>>  > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list]Garolite or wetted porous wood?
>>  >
>>  >
>>  >> Roger
>>  >>   back to the plastic for lining btw the cement and the epoxy I will
>>  >> be
>>  >> putting over it:
>>  >>   I want to consider just preparing a few pieces of thin wood, wetted
>>  >> out with epoxy and cured a day before inserting next to the cement
>>  >> instead of ordering the G 10 garolite.   This thin barrier is really
>>  >> just a way to key the epoxy layer(s) for the final wall of the trunk
>>  >> so
>>  >> why couldnt just a light crate type porous wood work here after being
>>  >> wetted out on both sides?
>>  >>   Just trying to maximize my time here, but be honest if you think I
>>  >> would be wasting my time with a cheap quick fix with this kind of wood
>>  >> instead of waiting..  I am also near an industrial plastics place in
>>  >> Manhattan and wil ask about the special plastic that can key onto
>>  >> epoxy
>>  >> and keep its water protection for long periods of time.
>>  >>    Lou
>>  >>
>>  >> On Thursday, December 9, 2004, at 08:10 PM, Roger Pihlaja wrote:
>>  >>
>>  >>> Lou,
>>  >>>
>>  >>> If the acetone (2-propanone) evaporates too quickly; then, you can
>>  >>> use
>>  >>> methyl
>>  >>> ethyl ketone (MEK) (2-butanone) as a thinning solvent.  The boiling
>>  >>> point of
>>  >>> acetone is 56.2 deg C vs. 79.6 deg C for MEK.  So, MEK will evaporate
>>  >>> much
>>  >>> more slowly than acetone.  However, be careful because MEK is
>>  >>> considerably
>>  >>> more toxic than acetone.
>>  >>>
>>  >>> Roger Pihlaja
>>  >>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>  >>>
>>  >>> ----- Original Message -----
>>  >>> From: "Lou Rosenberg" <lsr3 at MAIL.nyu.edu>
>>  >>> To: "The Rhodes 22 mail list" <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>>  >>> Sent: Thursday, December 09, 2004 7:32 PM
>>  >>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] CB trunk Surgery - Roger's Recommended
>>  >>> MOC
>>  >>>
>>  >>>
>>  >>>>> Todd, Roger:
>>  >>>>
>>  >>>>
>>  >>>> Roger,
>>  >>>> One of  My first experiment w WS epoxies I tried using acetone to
>>  >>>> lower viscosity and it does evap very quickly and of course creates
>>  >>>> more flammable fumes besides the epoxy fumes.
>>  >>>> thanks for that option.
>>  >>>>   L
>>  >>>>
>>  >>>>>
>>  >>>>> Funny you should ask.  I once had to do a project that involved
>>  >>>>> spray
>>  >>>>> coating an epoxy binder into a delicate nonwoven C-fiber batting.
>>  >>>>> The
>>  >>>>> unthickened epoxy was too viscous to atomize in a 2-fluid spray
>>  >>>>> nozzle.
>>  >>>>> However, it turns out that uncured West system epoxy & catalysts
>>  >>>>> (They
>>  >>> are
>>  >>>>> really epoxy products made by the Dow Chemical Co. - shhh, don't
>>  >>>>> tell
>>  >>>>> anyone!) are completely soluble in ketones like acetone or methyl
>>  >>>>> ethyl
>>  >>>>> ketone (MEK).  If Lou is not getting good penetration into the
>>  >>>>> cement;
>>  >>> then,
>>  >>>>> he can thin out the uncured epoxy with acetone in practically any
>>  >>> proportion
>>  >>>>> he needs to get the viscosity low enough.  Warning, the acetone
>>  >>>>> will
>>  >>>>> be
>>  >>>>> evaporating during and after application & will create a REALLY
>>  >>>>> flammable
>>  >>>>> vapor in the vicinity of the cement.  So, good ventillation will be
>>  >>>>> very
>>  >>>>> critical in this operation.
>>  >>>>>
>>  >>>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>  >>>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>  >>>>>
>>  >>>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>  >>>>> From: "Todd Tavares" <sprocket80 at mail.com>
>  > >>>>> To: "The Rhodes 22 mail list" <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>>  >>>>> Sent: Thursday, December 09, 2004 5:10 PM
>>  >>>>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] CB trunk Surgery - Roger's Recommended
>>  >>>>> MOC
>>  >>>>>
>>  >>>>>
>>  >>>>>>  Roger,
>>  >>>>>>
>>  >>>>>>    Is there a way to thin a small amount of epoxy to brush onto
>>  >>>>>> the
>>  >>> exposed
>>  >>>>> cement first?
>>  >>>>>>
>>  >>>>>>  Todd
>>  >>>>>>
>>  >>>>>>
>>  >>>>>>  ----- Original Message -----
>>  >>>>>>  From: "Roger Pihlaja" <cen09402 at centurytel.net>
>>  >>>>>>  To: "The Rhodes 22 mail list" <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>>  >>>>>>  Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] CB trunk Surgery - Roger's
>>  >>>>>> Recommended
>>  >>> MOC
>>  >>>>>>  Date: Thu, 9 Dec 2004 15:59:18 -0500
>>  >>>>>>
>>  >>>>>>>
>>  >>>>>>> Steve,
>>  >>>>>>>
>>  >>>>>>> MOC property = Material Of Construction property
>>  >>>>>>>
>>  >>>>>>> What I was refering to was to trowel in uncured 3M 5200
>>  >>>>>>> polyurethane
>>  >>>>>>> adhesive directly over the cement.  The 3M 5200 would be the
>>  >>>>>>> patch
>>  >>> in
>>  >>>>> this
>>  >>>>>>> case.  Even cured, this material is no where near stiff enough
>>  >>>>>>> for
>>  >>> this
>>  >>>>>>> application.
>>  >>>>>>>
>>  >>>>>>> I wouldn't use 3M 5200 to attach some other patch material to the
>>  >>> cement
>>  >>>>>>> either.  3M 5200 is too viscous to properly soak into the cement
>>  >>>>>>> to
>>  >>>>> develop
>>  >>>>>>> a strong bond with it.
>>  >>>>>>>
>>  >>>>>>> I suggested using untickened epoxy as a tie layer with the
>>  >>>>>>> cement.
>>  >>> The
>>  >>>>> low
>>  >>>>>>> viscosity epoxy will soak into the porosity in the cement,
>>  >>>>>>> creating
>>  >>> a
>>  >>>>> deep
>>  >>>>>>> mechanical & chemical bond with the cement.
>>  >>>>>>>
>>  >>>>>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>  >>>>>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>  >>>>>>>
>>  >>>>>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>  >>>>>>> From: "Steve" <rhodes2282 at yahoo.com>
>>  >>>>>>> To: "The Rhodes 22 mail list" <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>>  >>>>>>> Sent: Thursday, December 09, 2004 3:43 PM
>>  >>>>>>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] CB trunk Surgery - Roger's
>>  >>>>>>> Recommended
>>  >>> MOC
>>  >>>>>>>
>>  >>>>>>>
>>  >>>>>>>> Roger
>>  >>>>>>>> 3-M 5200 polyurethane caulk to
>>  >>>>>>>>> build up the patch as some
>>  >>>>>>>>> others have suggested.  Polyurethane caulk has the
>>  >>>>>>>>> wrong MOC properties for
>>  >>>>>>>>> this application.
>>  >>>>>>>>
>>  >>>>>>>> I don't get what you mean here.  I wasn't talking
>>  >>>>>>>> about building up a patch with 3M 5200; 3M 5200 is the
>>  >>>>>>>> patch if you when that route.  Also, what are you
>>  >>>>>>>> talking about when you say MOC properties?
>>  >>>>>>>> Steve
>>  >>>>>>>>
>>  >>>>>>>>
>>  >>>>>>>> --- Roger Pihlaja <cen09402 at centurytel.net> wrote:
>>  >>>>>>>>
>>  >>>>>>>>> Lou,
>>  >>>>>>>>>
>>  >>>>>>>>> I would use prefabricated G-10 sheets.  G-10 is a
>>  >>>>>>>>> composite material made
>>  >>>>>>>>> from oriented glass fiber & epoxy and it is very
>>  >>>>>>>>> stiff.  You will be able to
>>  >>>>>>>>> cut it with a saber saw to an exact fit into
>>  >>>>>>>>> whatever size & shape the hole
>>  >>>>>>>>> in your centerboard well ends up being.  You can
>>  >>>>>>>>> order G-10 in panels as
>>  >>>>>>>>> small as 12 inch X 12 inch up to as large as 36 inch
>>  >>>>>>>>> X 48 inch in any
>>  >>>>>>>>> thickness ranging from 1/32 inch to 2 inch.  Use an
>>  >>>>>>>>> unthickened epoxy tie
>>  >>>>>>>>> layer soaked into the cement and also on the cement
>>  >>>>>>>>> side of the G-10 patch.
>>  >>>>>>>>> Then, I would use a fiberglass tape laminated with
>>  >>>>>>>>> epoxy to bridge the
>>  >>>>>>>>> remaining gap between the G-10 patch and the old
>>  >>>>>>>>> centerboard well.  The
>>  >>>>>>>>> centerboard well side of the G-10 patch will still
>>  >>>>>>>>> need the final coat of
>>  >>>>>>>>> epoxy loaded up with West 422 Barrier Additive.
>>  >>>>>>>>> G-10 sheets can be ordered
>>  >>>>>>>>> from:
>>  >>>>>>>>>
>>  >>>>>>>>> McMaster-Carr Supply Company
>>  >>>>>>>>> 473 Ridge Rd.
>>  >>>>>>>>> Dayton, NJ  08810-0317
>>  >>>>>>>>> 732-329-3200 (Sales)
>>  >>>>>>>>> www.mcmaster.com
>>  >>>>>>>>>
>>  >>>>>>>>> Tell them you want "Grade G-10/FR4 Garolite" in
>>  >>>>>>>>> whatever sheet size &
>>  >>>>>>>>> thickness you need.
>  > >>>>>>>>>
>>  >>>>>>>>> Note, do not use 3-M 5200 polyurethane caulk to
>>  >>>>>>>>> build up the patch as some
>>  >>>>>>>>> others have suggested.  Polyurethane caulk has the
>>  >>>>>>>>> wrong MOC properties for
>>  >>>>>>>>> this application.
>>  >>>>>>>>>
>>  >>>>>>>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>  >>>>>>>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>  >>>>>>>>>
>>  >>>>>>>>>
>>  >>>>>>>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>  >>>>>>>>> From: "Lou Rosenberg" <lsr3 at MAIL.nyu.edu>
>>  >>>>>>>>> To: "The Rhodes 22 mail list"
>>  >>>>>>>>> <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>>  >>>>>>>>> Sent: Thursday, December 09, 2004 11:22 AM
>>  >>>>>>>>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] CB trunk surgery
>>  >>>>>>>>>
>>  >>>>>>>>>
>>  >>>>>>>>>> Roger,
>>  >>>>>>>>>>    I purchase a small cutting disc for my dremel
>>  >>>>>>>>> yesterday and hope to
>>  >>>>>>>>>> begin the work on Sun.
>>  >>>>>>>>>>    My plan is to:
>>  >>>>>>>>>>     Remove the cement which is causing the bulge,
>>  >>>>>>>>> then I will have to
>>  >>>>>>>>>> insert a  thin plastic or metal piece to cover the
>>  >>>>>>>>> cement as the
>>  >>>>>>>>>> epoxy will not bond directly to the cement
>>  >>>>>>>>> effectively.
>>  >>>>>>>>>>   I will sand the thin plastic down for good
>>  >>>>>>>>> adherance  quality and
>>  >>>>>>>>>> hope to just fit it under snugly to the
>>  >>>>>>>>> surrounding trunk.
>>  >>>>>>>>>>   any comments/ suggestions??
>>  >>>>>>>>>>   Lou
>>  >>>>>>>>>>
>>  >>>>>>>>>> __________________________________________________
>>  >>>>>>>>>> Use Rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org, Help?
>>  >>>>>>>>> www.rhodes22.org/list
>>  >>>>>>>>>>
>>  >>>>>>>>>>
>>  >>>>>>>>>
>>  >>>>>>>>>
>>  >>>>>>>>> __________________________________________________
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>>  >>>>>>>>
>>  >>>>>>>>
>>  >>>>>>>>
>>  >>>>>>>>
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>>  >>>>>>>
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>>  >>>>>
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