[Rhodes22-list] New Owner Questions ...

Michael Meltzer mjm at michaelmeltzer.com
Thu Jun 17 00:34:16 EDT 2004


in most cases it a port or chain plate, at those rates it should be easly to spot, 2 persion job, put someone in the boat, close it
up, have somesone starting low and go around the boat with a garden hoose, about a minute per area.

MJM

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robert Dobson" <robertdobson777 at yahoo.com>
To: "The Rhodes 22 mail list" <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Sent: Wednesday, June 16, 2004 11:31 PM
Subject: RE: [Rhodes22-list] New Owner Questions ...


> The Idea of installing a cam cleat on the side of the
> cabin sound pretty neat, it would keep my deck clear.
> Is it effective? I used a marine weather stripping on
> the inside of the lazerette lid, so I am assuming I
> have eliminated that source. The drains are tptally
> open. I am assuming there is no way to replace the
> cockpit floor drain til I pull the boat. It does not
> appear it is leaking but have a good amount of rust
> and deterioration--- ed kroposki
> <ekroposki at charter.net> wrote:
> > TO:  Robert Dobson
> >
> > Question #1:  Recent models of the R22 do not have
> > inside tracks but have a
> > cam cleat on the side of the cabin to achieve inside
> > sheeting.  Question to
> > you?  Do you have this recent modification by the
> > illustrious Stan Spitzer?
> >
> > Question #2:  Many of us have had such water
> > problems.  For the past year my
> > lazerette has been most often dry, but once or twice
> > I get a surprise.  Most
> > of my water came from three sources:
> > (1) Around the edge of the lazerette hatch when it
> > rain too much to
> > drain quickly out the seat drains.  So, make sure
> > you occasionally clean the
> > drains.  A bottle brush works fine.
> > (2) The previous owner had modified the seats so
> > that water drained
> > out close to the cabin.  That is he drilled two
> > holes in the drain channel.
> > What happened is that water siphoned along the
> > bottom edge of the seats over
> > the bulkhead and into the cabin.  Following
> > suggestion from this list, I
> > installed drain tubes with epoxy to take the water
> > to the cockpit floor.  No
> > more siphon problem.
> > (3) The connecting tube from the cockpit floor
> > drain to the thru
> > hull leaked.  I tighten the hose clamps and reduced
> > the volume to a few
> > drops.  You would have to remove the tubes and apply
> > sealant while the boat
> > is out of water.  This is a little room to move the
> > tube situation.
> >
> > Now others have found various other sources of
> > water.  Mary Lou has posted
> > one known source.  Understand, there are more
> > sources, so you will have to
> > play detective and fix one or more then wait and
> > see.  Eventually, you will
> > find the source of your water.
> >
> > Ed K
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
> > [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On
> > Behalf Of Robert Dobson
> > Sent: Wednesday, June 16, 2004 6:45 PM
> > To: The Rhodes 22 mail list
> > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] New Owner Questions ...
> >
> > I to have a two questions for the board...---too
> > #1 my Rhodes22 does not have inside tracts
> > installed.
> > I have 175 jib and Intermast main . Obviously I sail
> > with full blown jib out side the the shrouds. From
> > the
> > discussion so far it is not a big benefit with the
> > 175
> > to go inside. I shorten up to tach but otherwise I
> > am
> > 100% out. Would you consider it necessary or just a
> > option , to be able to go inside with the 175 ?
> >
> > #2 I know that it his been way above normal in rain
> > fall in Wisconsin this year. Each time I go to the
> > boat, I have to bail at least a full bucket or 2 out
> > of the bilge. I know it is not from the bottom. It
> > is
> > rain water and I can not see any obvious areas the
> > it
> > is coming in the cabin area. The lazerette is now
> > got
> > weather stripping on it but has not cured the
> > problem.
> > Are there other drains or channels that might allow
> > for this that I am missing? It is dry in the
> > lazerette
> > as long as the water does not accumulate too much
> > before I get to bail. The areas do not seem to be
> > open
> > to each other but still there is flow back and forth
> > between the lazerette and the bilge. Just wondering
> > if
> > any one has experienced similar problems?
> >
> > Bob Dobson
> > s/v Kel Lee
> >
> > Roger Pihlaja <cen09402 at centurytel.net> wrote:
> > > Sheldon,
> > >
> > > Question #1:
> > >
> > > I am assuming your foresail was reefed to less
> > than
> > > 100% in these
> > > conditions.  However, if you are in doubt, if the
> > > clew of the foresail
> > > extended aft of the chainplate on the upper
> > > sidestays; then, you should
> > > always route the sheets outside of the shrouds.
> > >
> > > The only time you will want to route the sheets
> > > inboard of the shrouds is
> > > when you are on a point of sail more upwind than a
> > > beam reach with the
> > > foresail reefed to less than about 100%.  Please
> > > read the jib car tuning
> > > procedure given below.  If this procedure causes
> > the
> > > sheet to become fouled
> > > on a lifelife or a shroud & you don't like the
> > > resulting sailshape; then,
> > > you should reroute the sheets &/or switch genoa
> > > tracks to eliminate the
> > > fouling.
> > >
> > > The following article was taken from the Rhodes 22
> > > FAQ website:
> > >
> > > http://www.geocities.com/blew_skies/jibcars.html
> > > JIB CAR TUNING PROCEDURE:
> > >
> > > The basic method for determining the position for
> > > the jib cars is to sight
> > > up the jib sheet & continue the imaginary line
> > past
> > > the clew all the way to
> > > the forestay. At the proper jib car position, this
> > > imaginary line should
> > > intersect the midpoint on the luff of the sail. As
> > > the sail is reefed, the
> > > jib car position will move forward. Shift to the
> > > forward track when the rear
> > > track won't give you the proper geometry, usually
> > > with a foresail smaller
> > > than about 100%.
> > >
> > > The above procedure will give you an approximate
> > jib
> > > car position, which can
> > > then be fine tuned thru the use of tell tales. The
> > > following procedure can
> > > be used for fine tuning the jib on points of sail
> > > from close hauled to a
> > > beam reach. On any point of sail more downwind
> > than
> > > a beam reach, you should
> > > just use the above basic procedure since the mode
> > of
> > > operation of the sail
> > > changes from behaving like a wing to behaving more
> > > like a parachute.
> > >
> > > You should have 3 tell tales about 12" back from
> > the
> > > luff & equally spaced
> > > down the luff of the sail. Usually, tell tales are
> > > installed with a small
> > > window so the sail trimmer can see the tell tale
> > on
> > > both sides of the sail
> > > without having to duck their head under the sail.
> > > The sail is properly
> > > trimmed when the windward & leeward tell tales at
> > > all 3 positions are
> > > streaming backwards. The proper jib car position
> > is
> > > determined by either the
> > > jib trimmer pulling in slightly on the jib sheet
> > or
> > > the helmsman pinching up
> > > slightly into the wind while watching the behavior
> > > of the tell tales. (This
> > > test is done slowly) If the top tell tales flutter
> > > before the bottom; then,
> > > the sail shape is twisted too much. You should
> > move
> > > the jib car position
> > > forward a few inches. This will alter the geometry
> > > of the jib sheet to cause
> > > the line to pull down more on the clew of the
> > sail,
> > > increase leech tension,
> > > & reduce twist. If the bottom tell tales flutter
> > > 1st; then, the sail needs
> > > more twist & the jib car position should be moved
> > > aft a couple of inches.
> > > Note that this effect is subtle & moving the jib
> > car
> > > position a few inches
> > > one way or the other is all that is required.
> > >
> > > Peter, you should also remember to start your sail
> >
> === message truncated ===
>
>
>
>
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