[Rhodes22-list] Mainsail slugs (was Mast Crane) (was Lou Moore)

Steve Alm salm at mn.rr.com
Sat Mar 20 04:30:03 EST 2004


Hey Rik,
What are you doing up at this hour?  I thought I was the only one.  8-)
Slim

On 3/20/04 4:16 AM, "Rik Sandberg" <sanderico at earthlink.net> wrote:

> Roger,
> 
> No, don't go making any special trips. :-) I appreciate the thought. By the
> time you read this and could do anything, I'll already be a couple hundred
> miles from my computer.
> 
> I never gave it a lot of thought at the time, but as I remember, the top two
> slugs (the one on the headboard & the top one on the cloth) weren't all that
> far apart. As you say, maybe only 6 inches, give or take a bit. It probably
> isn't going to be an issue.
> 
> Rik
> 
> 
> On Sat, Mar 20 2004 12:05 am, Roger Pihlaja wrote:
>> Rik,
>> 
>> When I get Dynamic Equilibrium out of winter storage this year, I'll
>> measure the distance between the top slug & the bottom of the headboard.
>> My recollection is the distance is about 6", but I'm not sure.  If you
>> really need that measurement ASAP, let me know & I'll make a special trip
>> to the Midland County Fairgrounds to visit the boat.
>> 
>> Roger Pihlaja
>> S/V Dynamic Equilbrium
>> 
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Rik Sandberg" <sanderico at earthlink.net>
>> To: "The Rhodes 22 mail list" <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>> Sent: Friday, March 19, 2004 8:06 PM
>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Mainsail slugs (was Mast Crane) (was Lou
>> Moore)
>> 
>>> Roger,
>>> 
>>> Sorry, I didn't know. I've never had a standard mainsail before, on
>> 
>> anything
>> 
>>> bigger than my Fatty Knees (no headboard).
>>> 
>>> I kinda have to wonder why people who make sails wouldn't know this.
>>> Seems like Steve said that a sailmaker had made his friend's sail. My
>>> Flicka
>> 
>> came
>> 
>>> to me with this slug on the headboard. I never liked the way it looked,
>> 
>> but
>> 
>>> it was there and I kinda had to assume that the sailmaker who put it
>>> there must have known something.
>>> 
>>> I know better now. But, that still doesn't answer the question, how far
>> 
>> below
>> 
>>> the headboard should the top slug be?
>>> 
>>> Sometimes I'm tempted to just go back to using the boltrope.
>>> 
>>> Rik
>>> 
>>> On Fri, Mar 19 2004 05:39 pm, Roger Pihlaja wrote:
>>>> Oh brother, problem solved!  The reason you don't put a slug on the
>>>> headboard is that the headboard is rigid.  The system needs the slight
>> 
>> flex
>> 
>>>> of the cloth sails in order not to bind up as the length of halyard is
>>>> reduced as the mainsail is hoisted up the mast.  It's sort of the
>>>> "universal joint" in the system & putting a slug on the headboard took
>> 
>> all
>> 
>>>> the flexibility out.  Never put a slug on the headboard.
>>>> 
>>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>>> 
>>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>>> From: "Rik Sandberg" <sanderico at earthlink.net>
>>>> To: "The Rhodes 22 mail list" <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>>>> Sent: Friday, March 19, 2004 4:34 PM
>>>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Mainsail slugs (was Mast Crane) (was Lou
>>>> Moore)
>>>> 
>>>>> Steve,
>>>>> 
>>>>> Hmmm....don't need a slug on the headboard.....I too had (key word
>> 
>> had) a
>> 
>>>>> slug on the headboard of the mainsail on my Flicka. It wore out and
>> 
>> broke
>> 
>>>>> when we were down at Kentucky Lake last fall. the other slugs seem to
>> 
>> be
>> 
>>>>> fine. I was wondering how to go about replacing it, but if this is
>> 
>> right,
>> 
>>>> I
>>>> 
>>>>> shouldn't have to.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Can you explain why a slug isn't needed on the headboard?? It seems
>>>> 
>>>> there's
>>>> 
>>>>> a lot of new stuff to learn when you go from a IMF main to a standard
>>>>> main
>>>>> 
>>>> :-)
>>>> :
>>>>> Rik
>>>>> 
>>>>> At 01:49 PM 3/19/2004, you wrote:
>>>>>> Lloyd
>>>>>> The slug in the headboard was the problem.  Didn't
>>>>>> need one there.
>>>>>> Steve
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> --- Lloyd Crowther <lcrowther at cox.net> wrote:
>>>>>>> Roger,
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Thanks for the prompt reply.  My problem was more
>>>>>>> that I couldn't get my
>>>>>>> Main all the way up rather than I couldn't get it
>>>>>>> down.  Before I had the
>>>>>>> 7/16" plastic, cylindrical slugs sewn onto grommets
>>>>>>> the sail maker later
>>>>>>> placed aft of the bolt rope along the mainsail's
>>>>>>> luff, I tied a slug to my
>>>>>>> halyard, tied a string to the lower part of the slot
>>>>>>> on the slug to pull the
>>>>>>> slug back down, and hoisted it up, no problem.  I
>>>>>>> took the sail to Quantum
>>>>>>> Sails Loft in Annapolis and asked them to put the
>>>>>>> slugs on.  When I tried to
>>>>>>> raise the sail, the topmost slug would bind about
>>>>>>> 3/4 t0 7/8 of the way to
>>>>>>> the masthead no matter what I did, lubrication or
>>>>>>> any thing else. I never
>>>>>>> had any problem getting the sail back down because I
>>>>>>> did all this in my
>>>>>>> slip.  I did take the precaution of looping a light
>>>>>>> line through the bottoms
>>>>>>> of the slug slots so if they twisted I could pull on
>>>>>>> the line to re-tension
>>>>>>> any slug that twisted.
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> I just went down to the cellar and measured the
>>>>>>> spacing of the grommets they
>>>>>>> put along the luff (I cut the slugs off when I
>>>>>>> abandoned the whole exercise
>>>>>>> last spring) and found they were 18" on centers.  So
>>>>>>> I guess you have solved
>>>>>>> some if not all of my problem although I doubt that
>>>>>>> I pay all that money
>>>>>>> again to prove you right.
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>   My thought was that as the sail got nearer the
>>>>>>> pulley in the mast. the
>>>>>>> halyard tended to pull the headboard, with its
>>>>>>> sewed-on slug, in towards the
>>>>>>> mast, relieving the pressure on that slug and
>>>>>>> allowing it to twist and bind.
>>>>>>> In any event, thank you again for your rapid and
>>>>>>> responsive reply, your
>>>>>>> knowledge continues to amaze me.
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Lloyd
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>>>>>> From: "Roger Pihlaja" <cen09402 at centurytel.net>
>>>>>>> To: "The Rhodes 22 mail list"
>>>>>>> <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>>>>>>> Sent: Friday, March 19, 2004 5:45 AM
>>>>>>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Mast Crane (was Lou
>>>>>>> Moore)
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> Lloyd,
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> I used 7/16" dia. cylindrical plastic sail slugs
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> on the luff and a 7/16"
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> dia. bolt rope on the foot.  Note: There are two
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> styles of sail slugs in
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> common use, T-shaped & cylindrical shaped.  Each
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> style is designed to be
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> used with the cooresponding slot shape on a mast
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> and they are not
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> interchangable.  On Dynamic Equilibrium, the
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> cylindrical style of sail
>>>>>>> slug
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> matched the configuration of the extruded slot on
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> the mast.  If a bolt
>>>>>>> rope
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> works well in your mast slot; then, I would expect
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> the cylindrical style
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> sail slugs are the correct ones for your mast as
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> well.  However, I would
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> check to be certain.  7/16" dia cylindrical sail
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> slugs are the same size
>>>>>>> as
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> came on the OEM standard sail.
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> Here's a couple of tips you might try on the mast
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> groove:
>>>>>>>> Take a rag & moisten it with a good silicone
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> lubricant like Dow Corning
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> Slipicone.  Run the oily rag up & down the length
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> of the slot.  The
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> Slipicone will remove any accumulated crud that's
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> built up in the slot,
>>>>>>> plus
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> it will also leave behind a silicone wax finish
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> that is much more slippery
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> than the bare anodized aluminum finish.  Do the
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> same thing with the
>>>>>>> plastic
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> slugs on the mainsail.  NOTE: Dispose of this oily
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> rag by immediately
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> burning it OR soak it in water, put it in a
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> plastic bag, & put it out with
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> this week's trash.  NEVER just leave it sitting
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> around or it may
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> spontaneously ignite & start a fire.  I usually do
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> this maintenance on the
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> mast slot at the beginning of the sailing season.
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> While you are wiping down the slot, take special
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> note of the location on
>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> mast if you feel any rough spots, dents, or burrs.
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>  Go back and carefully
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> inspect those spots.  A dent or burr on the inside
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> surface of the slot can
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> cause the bolt rope or sail slides to hang up.  A
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> minor dent or burr can
>>>>>>> be
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> smoothed with 400 grit emery cloth.  A rough spot
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> is quite often a
>>>>>>> build-up
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> of something like tree sap or bird droppings,
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> which can be removed with a
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> product like Formula 409.  One year, I even
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> discovered a mud dauber wasp
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> nest in the slot!  I was relieved to find the wasp
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> nest because something
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> was absolutely jamming the mainsail at that point
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> on the mast.  I was
>>>>>>> afraid
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> it was something really serious.
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> While you are wiping down the sail slugs, take
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> note if any of them are
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> damaged or have rough spots on them.  Repair or
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> replace as required.
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> After cleaning out the mast slot, take one of your
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> sail slugs & run it up
>>>>>>> &
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> down the length of the slot on the mast.  It
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> should move freely with no
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> binding anywhere.  It's possible the gap width on
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> the slot on your mast
>>>>>>> has
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> a "tight spot" wherein the gap width is off spec
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> too narrow.  This
>>>>>>> condition
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> can be repaired by forcing a wooden wedge into the
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> slot in the narrow
>>>>>>> areas
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> to widen the gap.  Depending upon the length of
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> the narrow slot region,
>>>>>>> you
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> might have to custom make this wedge to fit your
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> situation.
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> It's also possible that the sail slugs on the sail
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> you tried were spaced
>>>>>>> too
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> far apart.  The sail slugs need to be spaced no
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> more than about 12" apart
>>>>>>> on
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> center, or they tend to get cocked and bind up in
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> the slot.  Also, the
>>>>>>> tiny
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> shackles that attach the sail slugs to the luff on
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> the mainsail must be
>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> proper size.  If they are too short, the luff will
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> bind on the trailing
>>>>>>> edge
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> of the slot.  If they are too long, they may allow
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> the sail slug to become
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> cocked in the slot & bind up.
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> Finally, I'm sure you already know this; but, I'll
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> just mention it for the
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> sake of completeness.  No mainsail will drop down
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> the mast easily if the
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> sail is under load.  This means the boat must be
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> head to the wind, the
>>>>>>> boom
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> must be centered, with the boom topping lift
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> supporting the weight of the
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> boom.
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> If none of this works for you Lyoyd; then, I'm at
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> a loss to explain why
>>>>>>> your
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> mainsail won't fall down the mast when the halyard
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> is released.
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>>>>>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>>>>>>> From: "Lloyd Crowther" <lcrowther at cox.net>
>>>>>>>> To: "The Rhodes 22 mail list"
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> Sent: Friday, March 19, 2004 1:27 AM
>>>>>>>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Mast Crane (was Lou
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Moore)
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> Roger,
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> What size sail slugs do you use?  I tried 7/16"
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> plastic sail slugs and
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> couldn't even get the sail all the way up
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> without it binding.  Don't
>>>>>>> have
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> any trouble with  raising it with the bolt rope
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> but it is a bear to
>>>>>>> furl
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> if
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> your a single-hander.
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> Lloyd
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>>>>>>>> From: "Roger Pihlaja" <cen09402 at centurytel.net>
>>>>>>>>> To: "The Rhodes 22 mail list"
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> Sent: Thursday, March 18, 2004 11:35 PM
>>>>>>>>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Mast Crane (was Lou
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Moore)
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> Peter,
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> I modified the standard masthead with some
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> aluminum bar stock & a MIG
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> welder.
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> Look on the FAQ page for the tension settings.
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> The way to measure maximum chord inches is to
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> first load up the rig
>>>>>>> with
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> backstays.  Then, run the main halyard down to
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> the base of the mast &
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> tie
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> it
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> off taut against the slot on the aft face.
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Then, using a bosun's
>>>>>>> chair
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> or
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> a
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> step ladder to get up high enough on the mast,
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> measure the maximum
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> chord-inches from the halyard to the slot on
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> the mast.
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> Note: If all you want to do is eliminate the
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> headstay sag, the
>>>>>>> standard
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> backstay adjuster with the standard masthead
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> geometry will do that.
>>>>>>> The
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> only real reason for the crane is to create
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> clearance between the
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> backstays
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> and the big roach of a fully battened
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> mainsail.  You also need to be a
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> little conservative re the amount of roach in
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> the mainsail.  Designing
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> in
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> too much roach will disrupt the balance of the
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> sail plan by shifting
>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> center of effort (CE) aft, thus causing an
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> excessive amount of weather
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> helm.
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> Some of this weather helm can be dialed back
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> out by adjusting the
>>>>>>> static
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> tilt of the mast such that the mast leans
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> forward slightly, thus
>>>>>>> moving
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> CE of the rig forward.  The static tilt of the
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> mast is adjusted with
>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> turnbuckle on the forestay or by shortening
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> the forestay cable.
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> After having installed both a high tech
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> composite genoa on a Harken
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> roller
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> furler & a fully battened mainsail, I'd say
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> the genoa returns the
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> biggest
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> performance bang for the buck.  But, the fully
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> battened mainsail looks
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> totally cool when hoisted & the sail shape is
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> much easier to adjust to
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> exactly what you want for the prevailing
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> conditions & point of sail.
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> You will have a choice between sail slugs and
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> a bolt rope on the luff.
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> I
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> choose sail slugs & my mainsail almost falls
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> down the mast when the
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> halyard
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> is released.  Reefing it under load sometimes
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> requires the sail be
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> hauled
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> down; but, that was true with the partially
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> battened mainsail as well.
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> You
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> will have a choice between loose footed &
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> footed using a bolt rope.  I
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> choose a bolt rope on the foot, mainly because
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> that's what the
>>>>>>> standard
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> mainsail had.  I would order the optional
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> zippered shelf which will
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> allow
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> you to increase the fullness of the lower 1/3
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> of the mainsail shape
>>>>>>> for
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> light air.  You zip up the shelf to flatten
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> the mainsail shape for
>>>>>>> heavy
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> air.  After you've paid the big bucks for this
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> fully battened
>>>>>>> mainsail,
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> definitely get a leech line & cleat.  The
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> primary function of the
>>>>>>> leech
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> line
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> is to stop the trailing edge of the sail from
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> fluttering as the air
>>>>>>> foil
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> sheds its trailing vortices.  This fluttering
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> subjects the sailcloth &
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> stitching in the leech to a lot of high
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> frequency wear cycles, which
>>>>>>> can
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> result in premature fatigue failure of the
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> material.  You tighten the
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> leech
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> line just enough to stop the fluttering.
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Thus, the leech line extends
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> life of your expensive new sail & is well
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> worth the money up front to
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> have
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> it installed.  You will have to specify the
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> number of reef points in
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> your
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> new mainsail.  I originally ordered just 1 set
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> & later had a sailmaker
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> retrofit a 2nd set.  The next time around, I
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> will order two sets of
>>>>>>> reef
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> points.  My 1st reef point reduces the
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> mainsail area by 1/3 and the
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> second
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> reef point by 2/3 relative to the full
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> mainsail area.
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> Finally, this new fully battened mainsail will
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> be substantially
>>>>>>> bulkier
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> when
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> furled on the boom vs. the standard mainsail.
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> The chances are, your
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> current
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> mainsail cover will no longer fit.  I modified
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> my old mainsail cover
>>>>>>> to
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> fit
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> the new sail.
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>>>>>>>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>>>>>>>>> From: "Peter Thorn" <pthorn at nc.rr.com>
>>>>>>>>>> To: "The Rhodes 22 mail list"
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> Sent: Thursday, March 18, 2004 5:21 PM
>>>>>>>>>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Mast Crane (was
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Lou Moore)
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> Roger,
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> I certainly will try it.  It sounds great!
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> Where did you acquire your 12" mast crane?
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Do you recall Loos
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> settings
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> for
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> forwards, uppers and aft shrouds?
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> With only 4 cord/inches upper mast bend, my
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> guess is the greatest
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> benefit
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> is
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> headsail luff sag adjustment.   If you can
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> obtain enough tension to
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> keep
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> a
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> 150 Genoa close to zero cord/inches in a
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> blow, you must be putting
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> 400-500
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> pounds on the headstay.   R22 construction
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> looks like it would take
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> that.
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> Stan builds 'em beefy.
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> Thinking out loud - 1) built the rig first,
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> 2) measure/verify the
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> "reasonable mast bend" above the spreaders,
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> 3) send numbers to
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> sailmaker.
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> Can you think of anything else?
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> Best,
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> PT
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> Peter,
>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> With the forestay cable buried inside of
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> the roller furling foil &
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> impossible to get at with a Loo's Tension
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> gage, I've never
>>>>>>> measured
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> forestay tension.  I have some calculated
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> theoretical values; but,
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> they
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> would only apply to my particular boat &
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> masthead geometry &
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> wouldn't
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> be
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> of
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> much use to anyone else.  When you refer
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> to "chord-inches, I
>>>>>>> presume
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> you
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> mean the maximum perpendicular distance
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> from the chord to the
>>>>>>> radius
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> of
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> curvature?  Assuming my definition of
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> chord-inch agrees with
>>>>>>> yours,
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> with
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> range of adjustments on Dynamic
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Equilibrium as currently
>>>>>>> configured,
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> over
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> the 333-5/8 inch length of the forestay, I
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> can adjust the
>>>>>>> chord-inch
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> value
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> from nearly 0 to about 6 inches.  The
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> aluminum extrusions on the
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> headsail
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> foils won't sag too much more than that
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> without causing bearing
>>>>>>> and
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> furling
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> problems.
>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> On my current fully battened mainsail, I
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> went fairly conservative
>>>>>>> on
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> amount of mast bend the mainsail can
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> respond to.  It is currently
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> cut
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> to
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> respond to only about 2 chord-inches,
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> mostly above the spreaders.
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> The
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> mast
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> curvature actually trails off
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> asymptotically to 0 below the
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> spreaders
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> because of stretch in the lower sides
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> stays and the differential
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> fore/aft
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> static load I put on the lower side stays.
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>  The forward lower side
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> stays
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> are
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> adjusted tighter than the rear lower side
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> stays to facilitate mast
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> bending.
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> I think the amount of mast bend could be
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> increased to about 4
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> cord-inches
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> without any trouble.  When the time comes
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> to replace this
>>>>>>> mainsail,
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> that's
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> the spec I plan to ask for.  With the
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> current aluminum mast
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> extrusion,
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> trying for more bend than about 4
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> cord-inches is asking for
>>>>>>> trouble
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> in
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> my
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> engineering judgement.  The aluminum
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> extrusion might experience
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> fatigue
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> failure (especially in a salt water
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> environment) and the loads on
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> forestay & backstays would start to get a
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> little high for the hull
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> structure
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> and chain plates.
>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> As you probably already know, you bend the
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> mast to straighten the
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> forestay,
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> thereby reducing headstay sag plus flatten
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> the mainsail shape.
>>>>>>> Both
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> actions
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> depower the rig for heavy air.  Yes,
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> depowering the rig with the
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> backstay
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> adjuster is much faster than any other
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> method because it takes
>>>>>>> care
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> of
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> both
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> sails at the same time.  I have my
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> backstay adjuster setup with a
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> Harken
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> 144
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> swivel cam base with 150 cam-matic cleat,
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> 082 single bullet block,
>>>>>>> &
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> 071
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> stand-up spring mounted on the aft
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> starboard gunnel.  The
>>>>>>> swiveling
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> arm
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> cam
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> base & cam-matic cleat on the end of the
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> arm allows me to reach
>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> backstay
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> adjuster from virtually any helm position.
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>  The backstay adjuster
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> line
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> is
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> marked with calibration marks for quick,
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> reproducible tension
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> adjustments.
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> I used the big Harken 144 swivel cam base
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> because this unit is
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> mounted
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> right
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> by where people come aboard over the
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> transom from the boarding
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> ladder.
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> The
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> 144 is sufficiently stout that you can
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> stand on the swiveling arm
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> without
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> damaging it.  I've been sailing with this
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> backstay adjuster setup
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> since
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> 1988.  It's been absolutely bulletproof so
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> far.
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> Try it - You'll like it a whole bunch!
>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>>>>>>>>>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>>>>>>>>>>> From: "Peter Thorn" <pthorn at nc.rr.com>
>>>>>>>>>>>> To: "The Rhodes 22 mail list"
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> Sent: Thursday, March 18, 2004 10:44 AM
>>>>>>>>>>>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Mast Crane
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> (was Lou Moore)
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> Roger,
>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> Thanks for the detailed explanation.  I
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> am the child of an ME,
>>>>>>> but
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> not
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> one
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> myself.  All my engineering is pants
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> seat.  I'll add "eccentric
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> loading"
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> to
>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> my sailing jargon vocabulary.
>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> So, how much tension can you add to your
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> forestay by adjusting
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> your
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> backstay?  Can the 12" crane actually
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> put more tension on
>>>>>>> forestay
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> than
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> std
>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> crane can?  We all know a light beam
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> straight entry points much
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> better.
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> And, will your Harken furler track allow
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> the forestay to sag and
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> power
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> up
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> (for light air)?
>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> For any boat with sail reduction
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> capacity, mast bending might be
>>>>>>> a
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> bit
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> unnecessary - but  non-the-less
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> interesting.  After all, one can
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> bend
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> mast probably quicker than any other
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> de-powering technique.
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> During
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> a
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> race
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> it wouldn't distract from more important
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> things (like paying
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> attention
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> to
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> the wind) nearly as much as furling
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> would.  How much mast bend
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> (say
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> by
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> "cord/inches") can you induce in Dynamic
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Equilibrium's mast
>>>>>>> above
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> spreaders?
>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> As always, I enjoy your posts.
>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> PT
>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Peter,
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Michael is talking about Dynamic
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Equilibrium's masthead.  I
>>>>>>> have
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> my
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> double
>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> backstay attachment point moved aft
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> about 6 inches in order to
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> allow
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> double backstays to clear the roach of
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> my fully battened
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> mainsail.
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Mast bend is highly dependent upon how
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> you setup the tension
>>>>>>> in
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> standing
>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> rigging.  I believe there is there is
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> a standing rigging
>>>>>>> tuning
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> procedure
>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> on
>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the FAQ page.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> However, if you modify the masthead
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> geometry, like on my boat,
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> mast
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> operates a little bit differently than
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> standard.  The mast can
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> be
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> modeled
>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> as
>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> a column statically loaded by the
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> standing rigging in
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> compression
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> +
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> a
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> cantilever beam point loaded at the
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> masthead.  The standard
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> masthead
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> geometry loads the upper end of the
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> mast pretty symetrically.
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> However,
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> when
>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> you move the double backstay
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> attachment point aft, you are
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> introducing
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> a
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> factor called "eccentricity" (e) into
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> the column loading.
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> Basically,
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> think
>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> of e as the amount by which the
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> compression force vector is
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> moved
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> off
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> neutral axis of the column.  i.e. when
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> e = 0, the compression
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> load
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> is
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> applied right down the neutral axis of
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> the column & you have
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> pure
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> column
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> buckling.  As e is increased, the
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> deflection of the column
>>>>>>> under
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> load
>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> behaves like a combination of column
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> buckling + bending of a
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> cantilever
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> beam
>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> point loaded on the free end.  This
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> cantilever beam bending
>>>>>>> from
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> eccentricity is in addition to the
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> cantilever beam bending
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> induced
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> by
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> standing rigging.  As far as inducing
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> mast bend, it's the
>>>>>>> total
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> cantilever
>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> beam deflection we are interested in
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> because it's reproducible
>>>>>>> &
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> controllable.  Column buckling is sort
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> of an on/off
>>>>>>> catastrophic
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> kind
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> of
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> failure - i.e. virtually no bend up to
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> some critical load &
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> then,
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> BAM!
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> buckled mast.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> You might not think that mast bend is
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> possible in a masthead
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> rig.
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> However,
>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> you have to think about the behavior
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> of the mast in a 3-D
>>>>>>> world.
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> As
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> mast is bent, the height of the
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> masthead off the deck is also
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> reduced.
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Although the forestay length attached
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> to the front of the
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> masthead
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> doesn't
>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> change, because the masthead drops
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> down as well as moving aft,
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> mast
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> can
>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> still assume a bent shape.  This bent
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> shape can be fine tuned
>>>>>>> by
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> adjusting
>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the tension of the 4 lower sidestays,
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> which collectively
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> restrain
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> mast
>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> from moving from side-to-side as well
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> as fore-aft at about the
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> midpoint.
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> The standard double backstay tension
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> adjuster with the
>>>>>>> standard
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> masthead
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> geometry is also capable of bending
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> the mast.  However,
>>>>>>> because
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> e
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> is
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>  a
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> very
>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> small value with the standard masthead
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> geometry, the required
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> backstay
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> tension to achieve a given amount of
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> mast bend is much higher,
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> which
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> compression loads the mast closer to
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> the critical column
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> buckling
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> load.
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Note, this discussion is only
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> applicable for the standard rig.
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> Never
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> bend
>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> an IMF mainsail mast.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> From: "Peter Thorn" <pthorn at nc.rr.com>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> To: "The Rhodes 22 mail list"
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Sent: Thursday, March 18, 2004 3:27 AM
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Mast Crane
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> (was Lou Moore)
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Michael et al,
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 12" mast crane?  Very interesting
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> idea..  Would the forestay
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> tension
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> boost
>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> with that much leverage?  Or just
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> create mastbend above the
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> spreaders?
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Has
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> anyone, in the life of the universe,
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> ever created upper mast
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> bend
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> with
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> a
>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> std
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> rig?   (You were probably thinking
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> about clearing a big
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> roach).
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Afterthought- Does a Harken forestay
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> furler have a soft
>>>>>>> track?
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> If
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> its
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> hard
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> metal, can you somehow belly the
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Genoa entry for light air?
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> PT
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> PS - Go fasts are fun, but I'd trade
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> them for a favorable
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> shift.
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> well now, I think I have to switch
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> sides this year,
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> full-batted
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> main
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> sail
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> with a 12 inch crane are the way to
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> go, single line
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> reefing and a soild boom vang, but
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> IMF is more convent.
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> MJM
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> __________________________________________________
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Use Rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org,
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Help?
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> www.rhodes22.org/list
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> __________________________________________________
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Use Rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org,
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Help?
>>>>>>> www.rhodes22.org/list
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> __________________________________________________
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Use Rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org,
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Help? www.rhodes22.org/list
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> __________________________________________________
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Use Rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org, Help?
>>>>>>> 
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>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> __________________________________________________
>>>>>>> 
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>>>>>>> 
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>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> __________________________________________________
>>>>>>> 
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>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> 
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>>>>>>> 
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