[Rhodes22-list] I JUST GOT A 1976 RHODES 22

Roger Pihlaja cen09402 at centurytel.net
Thu Nov 25 07:10:33 EST 2004


Todd,

Those are pretty good drawings of the floor & cabin bulkhead structures.  I
saved them into my file of boat info just in case I ever need them.  You
don't happen to have versions of those drawings with dimensions on them do
you?

Are the stringers really flat on the bottom as illustrated, or is there some
longitudinal curvature?  I've never really looked closely at those
pieces/parts in my boat.  Does each one have to be custom fit to a
particular location?  i.e., If Hank doesn't have existing stringers to copy,
is he going to have to setup some sort of longitudinal & transverse "grid"
at cabin sole level with string?  Then, he would reference the vertical
height of each stringer to that grid in several locations, build the
stringer, & custom trim it to fit.  Otherwise, how can Hank be certain that
the top surface of all the stringers will end up on the same plane to evenly
support the cabin sole?  Sounds doable, but a royal PITA - the 1st of many
on this project I'm sure!

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilbrium

----- Original Message -----
From: "Todd Tavares" <sprocket80 at mail.com>
To: <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Cc: <gnilier at msn.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 25, 2004 1:09 AM
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] I JUST GOT A 1976 RHODES 22


Hank,

I don't know if you read the e-mail I sent to the Rhodes list in response to
your first request for help determining the structural layout of the R 22
interior. I attached a couple of drawings and have a couple more with this
e-mail.

First of all, it looked as if there was standing water in the cabin. You
need to get that out and allow the hull to dry out good. I would try to get
rid of that OSB chip board and go with marine grade plywood. It costs quite
a bit but the quality is much better, There are no voids and the plys are
bonded with non-water soluable glue. I would still follow Roger's suggestion
to give the structural members a coating of two of epoxy first.
In the first drawings, I left out two stringers, (#5 and #6 in my latest
drawing) which are really cleats, and are glassed to the stringers (#1 and
#2) These stringers/cleats support the edges of the cabin floor and allow
the floor to be secured with screws.

Since your interior is gutted, you can make up your own interior design if
you like....BUT you definitely need to add a mast compression post!! It
appears in your photos there are holes and marks on the ceiling so it won't
be difficult to locate the correct position.

If you have never done fiberglass work, I would suggest buying an
instructional video or go to the website for:
http://www.westsystem.com/ and
http://www.boater.com/repinfo/westsys/west4.html

Both sites have a ton of info. I highly recommend buying a video...but at
the very least buy a copy of gudgeon brothers manual #002-550 "Fiberglass
Boat Repair & Maintenance". I got this manual free at a local boat store.

Todd Tavares


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